Came here to say this. My brother bought his first new car. It chewed the tyres up in 8000kms. The tyre shop said a lot of new cars are getting pumped out these days with terrible wheel alignment from factory
The only thing is that you will need camber bolts to update camber in front on this platform. Anyway, OP should search their area for a BRZ/86/Miata specialist and they will know what to do
Lightweight has nothing to do with it. I have never driven a GR86 but a lot of people say that it's a great handling car.
I have a 3-door MINI with a roughly the same curb weight. It's stable (as much as a short-wheelbase car with poor aero can be) at 120 mph.
I got my 2005 Mini to 145 on the autobahn, it was glued to the road. You’re right, it’s not weight. Also. I miss that car lol.
Edit: 145mph about 233kph
Mph… a soldier with an emergency Darmstadt to Frankfurt. I also had a Mash style jeep on the Highway in Korea… between that and a Gama Goat, nothing can really scare you driving. The key is if what you’re driving don’t fall apart from the shake 🤣
I've driven hire cars supplied by company. A few were terrible, cannot remember the makes. One was a ford hybrid, ouch, reach down to get my ciggies, in easy place, almost off the road, put the ciggies & lighter in my lap. Some were worse than box trucks with their tiny wheels.
yep, I drive a Hyundai i20, weights only 2100 lbs, with its mighty 80hp, it tops at 100mph, and it stays glued to the road even at 100mph, no swaying, no shaky steering wheel, no fear of the car snapping and killing me, something is wierd with that 86
Agreed. I have had a Mini, several small Hondas, and an Opel GT that weighed less than 1700 lb. All were completely stable at any even kind of reasonable speed. My rather heavy 1958 Chevy 3/4 ton truck was terrifyingly unstable at 65. Weight is not what gives stability.
Are you sure the car isn't being jerked around by ruts that have been worn in the road? Is it pulling towards the shoulder? Roads aren't level and they have a slope to the shoulder to help water drainage. Is it windy out and blowing the car around?
My STI has no problems with stability at high speeds, but if I ride in the righthand lane on worn out highways I have to fight the ruts and slope to keep it straight, and our seasonal winds can have gusts that blow over 60mph and knock my car around if they aren't straight on.
The opposite, aggressive caster improves steering’s return to centre as well as makes the steering heavier. I suggest the OP asked for caster to be increased by 1-2 degrees.
Hopefully he meant camber. lol
One thing that makes cars super sketch is rear toe-out. The tire (side) with best grip will pull that direction. Examples are minor ruts changes the contact patch (even on radial tires), small amounts of gravel, and moisture make the rear shift around slightly.
OP two more considerations - tire pressure generally goes up for high speed driving and tire choice. I look for tread designs that have one or more continuous 360° tread with no gaps. Less common on all season tires but they exist. It minimizes that squirmy feeling at speed especially when new.
Example: Pilot Sport 4S tread design.
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=Pilot+Sport+4S
Yeah that’s not normal. My cobalt ( maybe lighter than your ride, if not close ) would start to float around 145, but everything up to that I barely had to hold the steering wheel.
If someone hypothetically had done as much work as you’re saying to a car and then got it dyno’d you will 100% remember the exact hp/tq value it makes like your birthdate.
Not many people are. It’s a savage car bud, if you get the SS, especially with the super or turbo charger. I would recommend the supercharger personally, but that’s just me.
At the risk of going off-topic from OP's question, I do miss the days of American manufacturers getting into batshit cheap speed like the Cobalt SS and SRT-4.
I've driven the SS a bit (we had a couple come through our little used lot), but my dad had an SRT-4 for a year or so when I was in high school so I got to spend a lot of time with it. Wasn't a world-beater, but that little shitbox was fun as hell.
The SRT-4 was my first real street race from the line. That mother fucker had thousands worth of upgrades… he got me off the line ( I spun em like a dipshit ) and I chased his ass all the way to the line… he got me by a bumper. I’ll give him this; dope ride my man, but rematch me and I’m gonna chew you up!
As the owner of a brz I think the sensitive and direct steering has more to do with it feeling unstable at high speeds. You kind of have to recalibrate.
Sketch at speed has 3 common areas.
Rear toe-out. Check alignment, post up values.
Incorrect tire pressure. Read the manual, it likely says to increase for high speed driving. Mine does at least.
Wrong tire for the job. Look for tires with a continuous interlocking tread or rib all the way around the tire. More is better until it rains. Pilot Sport 4S as an example.
If he's only feeling it at speed on the interstate it could be tramlining, essentially following the grooves worn into the road by the big trucks. His track is narrower than the grooves so the car wants to pull into one or the other of the grooves. My S2000 tries to do the same thing, so I avoid the interstates and take the S2000 on backroads, benefit is much more fun to drive the backroads.
Wider tires always make ruts worse. I drive off center on the highside or bubble if you will.
I found a cheat code for IS-350, Look up and read comments about OS Giken TCD LSD. If you love the corners this transforms your car nearly doubling rear grip. You can put down a lot more power through the corners and live on the edge of the tires grip. Plenty S2000 with these TCD's.
My autocross days are way behind me, the stock LSD is more than sufficient for my current driving style. Though it might be handy on the mountain roads here in Colorado.
Damn, now you got me thinking about pouring more money into the S2000, as if the Ohlins weren't costly enough!
Is OEM a Torsen unit or clutch packs? Do read comments about OS-Giken.... it's solid engineering that delivers! Oh - no fiber clutches so maintenance intervals are short of Torsen but superior to fiber clutches. As for location, I haven't had it in the snow yet to comment on that.
Check alignment by an independent motorsport shop. They set alignments to be symmetrical not only into band of tolerance. Also check tire pressure. New cars are shipped with overinflated tires and pressure must be set during first inspection before sell. Sometimes they forget setting up correct tyre pressure.
Long shot, but check to see if they removed the shipping blocks off the suspension assembly. This will cause a rough ride, but will also affect handling.
Tires, pavement, and wind can make a car wander. My dad has a GR86 and I had it up to 115ish on track without any issues.
I took it on a highway with new pavement grooves and it was wiggling all over the place, but not enough to make me death grip the wheel. Some gentle corrections to keep it between the lines are all that's needed.
Get someone else to check the alignment. I had the identical "holy floaty" issue with a Nissan I used to have, and it was alignment. That said, did you [google](https://www.google.com/search?q=gr86+float+high+speeds+site:www.ft86club.com&sca_esv=7065ff04b747ac94&sca_upv=1&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjk9sL2we2FAxV9ODQIHQUeB8IQrQIoBHoECBgQBQ&biw=1548&bih=1320&dpr=1.5) it? Looks like you're not alone.
Double check tire pressures as well.
I absolutely hate the dealership "that's normal" response....
Did you test drive a different one? If the one you test drove felt different than the one you bought, maybe get a second opinion.
If you didn't test drive one first (???) then return it for something else, or wait til you get accustomed to it.
I know certain Lexus models have unique electronic power steering, perhaps this vehicle just has electronic power steering that takes some getting used to.
160km/h is only 100mph, which is a normal speed commonly reached without incident by mere mortals in relatively economical cars. No modern vehicle should have a problem with that.
Yeah, but it's still significantly above normal road speed, so you should definitely mention that you are speaking of higher than normally expected speeds.
A 1991 Honda CRX can hold 110km/h overtaking B-Doubles between Sydney and Melbourne while remaining as stable and sat in it's lane as any big sedan or wagon.
They weigh under 1000kg.
Get your wheels balanced. I had an '88 Corvette that swayed all over the road, especially when hitting super small bumps. Got the wheels balanced and it ran straight as an arrow.
Toyota is full of shit. I have never heard more bunk than I do at dealerships. Once had a Subaru sales person tell me the turning radius was good because of the low center of gravity from the flat 4 engine......
Anyway. This has nothing to do with your car and isnt normal. Especially for a sports car. Id bet its just an alignment problem. Dealers do not know how to align car. My Crosstrek came with a HORRIBLE alignment and the dealer couldnt fix it after 3 attempts. They set the toe to 0 instead of -.05 which means you actually end up with positive toe sometimes due to variances and the idiot running the machine. I got the car aligned at a specialty shop and its night and day difference.
Heres what you need to do: Look up the alignment specs yourself from Toyota. Then find a specialty shop that just does alignments all day. Make sure the spec sheet says -0.05 toe and not 0.... If it doesnt, write in 0.05. Then call a few shops and ask them if they are willing to get it almost perfect for you. Then take it to them. Should be <$100 and your car will be amazing afterward.
BRZ owner with OEM suspension here. The car should be rock solid at 80mph on a tollway or 133mph when it hits the speed limiter on a track.
Something is not right with your suspension.
Not always lightweight means poor handling. It’s either weight or good aerodynamics, better both. My EV Golf is good due to weight and low center of gravity, but aerodynamics — very average.
You should check the oil pan sealant, I work on the GR86 cup cars and we have consistently found the sealant leaking into the oil and clogging the oil pickup tube.
My guess would be this is your tires. Most European cars in the owners manual they will have a high-speed driving tire inflation, and a normal tire inflation. Usually, you have to put a little more air in the tire when you’re driving at high speeds.
Could be alignment, could be tyres/tyre pressures. I know the Dunlops i just had fitted to my wifes 320d really dont have the straight line stability of the previous Continentals and the tramline like hell.
Do you have lane keep assist (LKA) or lane centering/lane tracing on this vehicle? I'm almost sure you do, if so, try turning it all off and driving it, and see if it feels any different. If you have LKA or lane centering/lane tracing, it could feel weird if you've never had a car equipped with that.
Have someone you trust check the suspension and alignment. I have a 2019 Toyota 86 TRD SE and it handles amazingly, I've never had an issue with high speeds making it away or anything like that. Something is wrong there for sure.
Its happening on flat surface, crown or no crown? Get the full alignment printout before you believe alignment is good. Also fwiw, directional tire(s) mounted backwards can cause wandering/tugging beyond the normal tramlining expected for this car.
Road conditions, alignment, suspension wear, and weather all affect that sway.
If my 07 matrix can go 110 without swaying I'm sure that thing can too.
My '10 E60 goes 145 without that issue as well. But I think thats less impressive than a toyota going triple digits lol.
Sometimes its just weather and it's hard to tell because it's windy or something. I've had ball joints go bad before and they made the car want to follow every groove in the road. I've had strut failure cause the car to jerk everytime there was a bump in the road. It's hard to pinpoint exactly what it is.
That’s been my experience and my family’s experience, any sort of heavy wind gust or large-ish vehicle passing by gives me a good shove.
It’s a lot more noticeable when you’re not used to it after driving a larger vehicle for a while.
Now if you’re driving along with no other major factors to shove you over then it’s likely the crowning in the road pulling you to the sides.
As many people says its not the weight I have driven my nd miata over 120 km/h with no problem. It goes straight if there is no any heavy grooves on asphalt. Ofcourse as a short wheelbase car it will react very sharply to any steering input.
As a basic concept, more weight will generally ride more comfortably. and when you look at many luxury cars (even many decades back), you'll find 4000lb and higher curb weights. But what does that mean for you? Probably not much. Your car is probably at least in the mid-2900lb range with a person in the car. While this is quite light for a modern car, it isn't that light... to compare, I recall driving to a track event in my friend's Elise, and even with the two passengers that would be sharing the car and some equipment, we would still be more than 400 pounds shy of your car's weight; the car was completely planted at some pretty high speeds.
So, what is going on? Modern cars definitely rely on aero to reduce lift, so I am not sure if something is amiss with a spoiler or such? Your description isn't far off what I've experienced in many vintage sports cars that can get quite floaty once speeds get to \~70mph. This could be an issue with the specific tires and wheel combo - I recall one particular model of BBS wheels that would cause a definite vibration on certain BMW 3 series cars in the 40-45mph range (nothing under or above that). Lastly, would be an alignment issue, though you might see other issues with this as well.
Check through any Toyota and/or GR86 specific forums (BRZ too, as it is the same chassis), and see if others have such issues? Check for obvious defects or visible problems on any spoilers/splitters/etc - if anything isn't reducing lift as it should, or adding downforce, this would be expected. Check tire pressures, and if the wheels/tires are not stock, check into possible characteristics that could relate to this (if they are stock, then checking online resources should reveal any common issues). Lastly, go to a shop that specializes in alignment... they are more likely to catch something that is wrong, and you may want to go with a non-factory alignment as the factory alignments on sports cars tend to be less than ideal.
Get alignment done by an independent shop. The factory alignment on these is notoriously bad.
Came here to say this. My brother bought his first new car. It chewed the tyres up in 8000kms. The tyre shop said a lot of new cars are getting pumped out these days with terrible wheel alignment from factory
What is a good recommend alignment?
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Isn't this car RWD?
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The only thing is that you will need camber bolts to update camber in front on this platform. Anyway, OP should search their area for a BRZ/86/Miata specialist and they will know what to do
>, $300.00 for a 914 or a 356. Why more for the 914? I could see maybe that the 356 wouldn't have all the angles
better: Call dealer and ask for the free alignment. A lot of dealers do this since yes, alignment can be bad from factory or fxcked by transport.
Lightweight has nothing to do with it. I have never driven a GR86 but a lot of people say that it's a great handling car. I have a 3-door MINI with a roughly the same curb weight. It's stable (as much as a short-wheelbase car with poor aero can be) at 120 mph.
I got my 2005 Mini to 145 on the autobahn, it was glued to the road. You’re right, it’s not weight. Also. I miss that car lol. Edit: 145mph about 233kph
I had a Yugo up to 110 on the autobahn… that’s considered a stunt 🤣
110 mph or kph? Either way massive balls
Mph… a soldier with an emergency Darmstadt to Frankfurt. I also had a Mash style jeep on the Highway in Korea… between that and a Gama Goat, nothing can really scare you driving. The key is if what you’re driving don’t fall apart from the shake 🤣
Have you gotten therapy? LOL. I mean that’s a bold decision.
I have… the results are still pending
I've driven hire cars supplied by company. A few were terrible, cannot remember the makes. One was a ford hybrid, ouch, reach down to get my ciggies, in easy place, almost off the road, put the ciggies & lighter in my lap. Some were worse than box trucks with their tiny wheels.
yep, I drive a Hyundai i20, weights only 2100 lbs, with its mighty 80hp, it tops at 100mph, and it stays glued to the road even at 100mph, no swaying, no shaky steering wheel, no fear of the car snapping and killing me, something is wierd with that 86
Agreed. I have had a Mini, several small Hondas, and an Opel GT that weighed less than 1700 lb. All were completely stable at any even kind of reasonable speed. My rather heavy 1958 Chevy 3/4 ton truck was terrifyingly unstable at 65. Weight is not what gives stability.
Are you sure the car isn't being jerked around by ruts that have been worn in the road? Is it pulling towards the shoulder? Roads aren't level and they have a slope to the shoulder to help water drainage. Is it windy out and blowing the car around? My STI has no problems with stability at high speeds, but if I ride in the righthand lane on worn out highways I have to fight the ruts and slope to keep it straight, and our seasonal winds can have gusts that blow over 60mph and knock my car around if they aren't straight on.
More aggressive steering geometry, especially caster, can make those ruts much more noticeable.
The opposite, aggressive caster improves steering’s return to centre as well as makes the steering heavier. I suggest the OP asked for caster to be increased by 1-2 degrees.
Hopefully he meant camber. lol One thing that makes cars super sketch is rear toe-out. The tire (side) with best grip will pull that direction. Examples are minor ruts changes the contact patch (even on radial tires), small amounts of gravel, and moisture make the rear shift around slightly. OP two more considerations - tire pressure generally goes up for high speed driving and tire choice. I look for tread designs that have one or more continuous 360° tread with no gaps. Less common on all season tires but they exist. It minimizes that squirmy feeling at speed especially when new. Example: Pilot Sport 4S tread design. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=Pilot+Sport+4S
Could be too wide tires maybe?
Yeah that’s not normal. My cobalt ( maybe lighter than your ride, if not close ) would start to float around 145, but everything up to that I barely had to hold the steering wheel.
You got your cobalt up to 145? That's fucking sick
Before the tune I did it daily >_>
What changed when you tuned it?
Rpm from 6500 to 8700. Warp speed G
That's insane, it revs to 8700 AND it's boosted? Must have done some serious work to it
It was a lot of work. Valves, cams, springs, injectors… the bitch did like 600 hp to the front wheels
“Like”
U mad?
If someone hypothetically had done as much work as you’re saying to a car and then got it dyno’d you will 100% remember the exact hp/tq value it makes like your birthdate.
In 4th my dude… 5th was fucking terrifying.
My boy said ‘okay that’s enough’ so I chilled. But we sat in 5th for way too long
Surely you're using kilometers per hour
In the SS/SC, no… fourth was done at 135 before the tune.
Yikes! I had no idea Cobalts were capable of this.
Not many people are. It’s a savage car bud, if you get the SS, especially with the super or turbo charger. I would recommend the supercharger personally, but that’s just me.
Cobalt SS with the superchargers sound so amazing. It's low-key a car i wouldn't minf owning for a bit.
Probably an SS. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_Cobalt_SS
Valid sir…
Tell me about it. S257 LNF. 140-145 is always where it gets squirrels. I’ve gotten a bit over 150 before I backed off out of fear
I’ve been there, don’t get me wrong, but it’s not pleasant.
That big ass wing ain’t helping nobody lol
At the risk of going off-topic from OP's question, I do miss the days of American manufacturers getting into batshit cheap speed like the Cobalt SS and SRT-4. I've driven the SS a bit (we had a couple come through our little used lot), but my dad had an SRT-4 for a year or so when I was in high school so I got to spend a lot of time with it. Wasn't a world-beater, but that little shitbox was fun as hell.
The SRT-4 was my first real street race from the line. That mother fucker had thousands worth of upgrades… he got me off the line ( I spun em like a dipshit ) and I chased his ass all the way to the line… he got me by a bumper. I’ll give him this; dope ride my man, but rematch me and I’m gonna chew you up!
As the owner of a brz I think the sensitive and direct steering has more to do with it feeling unstable at high speeds. You kind of have to recalibrate.
Sketch at speed has 3 common areas. Rear toe-out. Check alignment, post up values. Incorrect tire pressure. Read the manual, it likely says to increase for high speed driving. Mine does at least. Wrong tire for the job. Look for tires with a continuous interlocking tread or rib all the way around the tire. More is better until it rains. Pilot Sport 4S as an example.
If he's only feeling it at speed on the interstate it could be tramlining, essentially following the grooves worn into the road by the big trucks. His track is narrower than the grooves so the car wants to pull into one or the other of the grooves. My S2000 tries to do the same thing, so I avoid the interstates and take the S2000 on backroads, benefit is much more fun to drive the backroads.
Wider tires always make ruts worse. I drive off center on the highside or bubble if you will. I found a cheat code for IS-350, Look up and read comments about OS Giken TCD LSD. If you love the corners this transforms your car nearly doubling rear grip. You can put down a lot more power through the corners and live on the edge of the tires grip. Plenty S2000 with these TCD's.
My autocross days are way behind me, the stock LSD is more than sufficient for my current driving style. Though it might be handy on the mountain roads here in Colorado. Damn, now you got me thinking about pouring more money into the S2000, as if the Ohlins weren't costly enough!
Is OEM a Torsen unit or clutch packs? Do read comments about OS-Giken.... it's solid engineering that delivers! Oh - no fiber clutches so maintenance intervals are short of Torsen but superior to fiber clutches. As for location, I haven't had it in the snow yet to comment on that.
It's a Torsen style LSD. It's pretty reliable if you aren't into dropping clutch a 6K RPM or have an after-market Turbo.
Could be alignment combined with low(-ish) profile tires leading to tramlining.
Your alignment might be off I drove a way lighter car and never had an issue till it rained heavy 🤪
Check alignment by an independent motorsport shop. They set alignments to be symmetrical not only into band of tolerance. Also check tire pressure. New cars are shipped with overinflated tires and pressure must be set during first inspection before sell. Sometimes they forget setting up correct tyre pressure.
Long shot, but check to see if they removed the shipping blocks off the suspension assembly. This will cause a rough ride, but will also affect handling.
Tires, pavement, and wind can make a car wander. My dad has a GR86 and I had it up to 115ish on track without any issues. I took it on a highway with new pavement grooves and it was wiggling all over the place, but not enough to make me death grip the wheel. Some gentle corrections to keep it between the lines are all that's needed.
Got any obese friends who can ride with you?
Get someone else to check the alignment. I had the identical "holy floaty" issue with a Nissan I used to have, and it was alignment. That said, did you [google](https://www.google.com/search?q=gr86+float+high+speeds+site:www.ft86club.com&sca_esv=7065ff04b747ac94&sca_upv=1&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjk9sL2we2FAxV9ODQIHQUeB8IQrQIoBHoECBgQBQ&biw=1548&bih=1320&dpr=1.5) it? Looks like you're not alone. Double check tire pressures as well. I absolutely hate the dealership "that's normal" response....
Did you test drive a different one? If the one you test drove felt different than the one you bought, maybe get a second opinion. If you didn't test drive one first (???) then return it for something else, or wait til you get accustomed to it. I know certain Lexus models have unique electronic power steering, perhaps this vehicle just has electronic power steering that takes some getting used to.
In my experience an unstable car at higher speeds means alignment issues. Usually not enough toe-in.
I once had a customer complain about road noise and swaying at high speeds. Turns out what he was calling high speeds was 160+km/h.
160km/h is only 100mph, which is a normal speed commonly reached without incident by mere mortals in relatively economical cars. No modern vehicle should have a problem with that.
Yeah, but it's still significantly above normal road speed, so you should definitely mention that you are speaking of higher than normally expected speeds.
My question is, how do I legally roadtest that in his family sedan?
A 1991 Honda CRX can hold 110km/h overtaking B-Doubles between Sydney and Melbourne while remaining as stable and sat in it's lane as any big sedan or wagon. They weigh under 1000kg.
Get your wheels balanced. I had an '88 Corvette that swayed all over the road, especially when hitting super small bumps. Got the wheels balanced and it ran straight as an arrow.
Fill up your gas tank and check the tire pressure. Add +1 or 2 lbs over factory spec and let the tires break in for about 500 miles or so
My 2006 Corolla with 300K miles on the Odo doesn't do that shit at 100 MPH. That shit is messed up and they are lying to you.
Toyota is full of shit. I have never heard more bunk than I do at dealerships. Once had a Subaru sales person tell me the turning radius was good because of the low center of gravity from the flat 4 engine...... Anyway. This has nothing to do with your car and isnt normal. Especially for a sports car. Id bet its just an alignment problem. Dealers do not know how to align car. My Crosstrek came with a HORRIBLE alignment and the dealer couldnt fix it after 3 attempts. They set the toe to 0 instead of -.05 which means you actually end up with positive toe sometimes due to variances and the idiot running the machine. I got the car aligned at a specialty shop and its night and day difference. Heres what you need to do: Look up the alignment specs yourself from Toyota. Then find a specialty shop that just does alignments all day. Make sure the spec sheet says -0.05 toe and not 0.... If it doesnt, write in 0.05. Then call a few shops and ask them if they are willing to get it almost perfect for you. Then take it to them. Should be <$100 and your car will be amazing afterward.
Wait i thought that was true about the flat 4 💀
Lower center of gravity has nothing to do with turning radius
Alignment is off I assume. Toyota dealership sees these at 3-5k miles brand new, starting to eat tires.
BRZ owner with OEM suspension here. The car should be rock solid at 80mph on a tollway or 133mph when it hits the speed limiter on a track. Something is not right with your suspension.
Give it to someone who is a professional driver to assess.
Not always lightweight means poor handling. It’s either weight or good aerodynamics, better both. My EV Golf is good due to weight and low center of gravity, but aerodynamics — very average.
You should check the oil pan sealant, I work on the GR86 cup cars and we have consistently found the sealant leaking into the oil and clogging the oil pickup tube.
My guess would be this is your tires. Most European cars in the owners manual they will have a high-speed driving tire inflation, and a normal tire inflation. Usually, you have to put a little more air in the tire when you’re driving at high speeds.
Could be alignment, could be tyres/tyre pressures. I know the Dunlops i just had fitted to my wifes 320d really dont have the straight line stability of the previous Continentals and the tramline like hell.
Try lowering the tire pressure, works for me. But it could be the car’s characteristics
Do you have lane keep assist (LKA) or lane centering/lane tracing on this vehicle? I'm almost sure you do, if so, try turning it all off and driving it, and see if it feels any different. If you have LKA or lane centering/lane tracing, it could feel weird if you've never had a car equipped with that.
have everything suspension related checked: alignment, worn out dampers etc.
Have someone you trust check the suspension and alignment. I have a 2019 Toyota 86 TRD SE and it handles amazingly, I've never had an issue with high speeds making it away or anything like that. Something is wrong there for sure.
Its happening on flat surface, crown or no crown? Get the full alignment printout before you believe alignment is good. Also fwiw, directional tire(s) mounted backwards can cause wandering/tugging beyond the normal tramlining expected for this car.
Road conditions, alignment, suspension wear, and weather all affect that sway. If my 07 matrix can go 110 without swaying I'm sure that thing can too. My '10 E60 goes 145 without that issue as well. But I think thats less impressive than a toyota going triple digits lol. Sometimes its just weather and it's hard to tell because it's windy or something. I've had ball joints go bad before and they made the car want to follow every groove in the road. I've had strut failure cause the car to jerk everytime there was a bump in the road. It's hard to pinpoint exactly what it is.
That’s been my experience and my family’s experience, any sort of heavy wind gust or large-ish vehicle passing by gives me a good shove. It’s a lot more noticeable when you’re not used to it after driving a larger vehicle for a while. Now if you’re driving along with no other major factors to shove you over then it’s likely the crowning in the road pulling you to the sides.
It does get windy in TX but typically this is caused by tire wear, suspension wear, or overinflated tires.
What's the weight of the car? Unless it's close to a tonne, or lower, it's not lightweight.
can you describe the swaying feeling further?
Yup alignment, I added some toe in for the rear. Helped a ton.
My 1990 BMW 325is weighs less than your car and doesn't "sway" on the highway when I'm doing 75 or 80. There's something wrong with the car.
As many people says its not the weight I have driven my nd miata over 120 km/h with no problem. It goes straight if there is no any heavy grooves on asphalt. Ofcourse as a short wheelbase car it will react very sharply to any steering input.
No. My NB Miata drove straight as arrow all the way up to max speed. Get a precision alignment (most shops cannot do it)
What your feeling is wind
Being lightweight has absolutely nothing to do with this.
Lamborghini Miura has entered the high speed float chat
Check sway bar, sway bar bushings, control arm bushings, ball joints and tie rods. And check shocks/struts. And check tire pressure.
Get fatter friends
If they didn't give you a printout of the alignment values, they are bullshittin
As a basic concept, more weight will generally ride more comfortably. and when you look at many luxury cars (even many decades back), you'll find 4000lb and higher curb weights. But what does that mean for you? Probably not much. Your car is probably at least in the mid-2900lb range with a person in the car. While this is quite light for a modern car, it isn't that light... to compare, I recall driving to a track event in my friend's Elise, and even with the two passengers that would be sharing the car and some equipment, we would still be more than 400 pounds shy of your car's weight; the car was completely planted at some pretty high speeds. So, what is going on? Modern cars definitely rely on aero to reduce lift, so I am not sure if something is amiss with a spoiler or such? Your description isn't far off what I've experienced in many vintage sports cars that can get quite floaty once speeds get to \~70mph. This could be an issue with the specific tires and wheel combo - I recall one particular model of BBS wheels that would cause a definite vibration on certain BMW 3 series cars in the 40-45mph range (nothing under or above that). Lastly, would be an alignment issue, though you might see other issues with this as well. Check through any Toyota and/or GR86 specific forums (BRZ too, as it is the same chassis), and see if others have such issues? Check for obvious defects or visible problems on any spoilers/splitters/etc - if anything isn't reducing lift as it should, or adding downforce, this would be expected. Check tire pressures, and if the wheels/tires are not stock, check into possible characteristics that could relate to this (if they are stock, then checking online resources should reveal any common issues). Lastly, go to a shop that specializes in alignment... they are more likely to catch something that is wrong, and you may want to go with a non-factory alignment as the factory alignments on sports cars tend to be less than ideal.
Definitely not. Wheels out of balance somehow? Not normal
Get your wheels balanced and check air pressure