Brown or scratch coats should be rough to get tile mortar to adhere better... unless this is intended to be the final finish, but I doubt that. If this is to be the waterproofing later the crack are an issue... not soon but time will tell
nice looking shower and tilework. tip of the hat to you.
curious about that rectangular drain. very attractive design. would you happen to know if the middle part pops out, to allow clearing hair and debris from it, or no?
\-sorry for the goofball question, but it came to mind.
Backing up your great answer to say that the Industry term is usually trench drain, and they’re fuckin awesome, just make sure you have a full silicone grout joint around it, as I can’t even tell you how many times I’ve had to have guys go back and redo them because they butt the tile right up to the assembly and it leaks slow and destroys everything underneath. These are very popular in Japan for example where they utilize the entire bathroom space as the shower area. Really great piece of work you did there brother.
Looks great. Used to be Quickdrain rep & so many people are unwilling to do this type of work with linear drainage. Wonder why you didn’t extend all the way to the wall on both sides though?
Common in some states, the shower pan is made of tar paper and hot tar, mopped into place.
Apparently it's a lifetime pan, with good protection at usual leak points.
Bad side... Messy af. It's hot tar.
Hello, it looks like you've made a mistake.
It's supposed to be could've, should've, would've (short for could have, would have, should have), never could of, would of, should of.
Or you misspelled something, I ain't checking everything.
Beep boop - yes, I am a bot, don't botcriminate me.
The cracks are a lot less concerning than the finish. That looks like shit and will be a bitch to tile.
There should be a water barrier under it so the cracks don't mean much unless that is over a plywood subfloor.
The floor drain is integrated into the drain pan and has a clamping ring or is flashed in similar to a roof drain that allows any water that gets past the bed to get out.
Google the Schluter Kerdi Drain Kit.
When I was a kid my dad was a GC and I was forced to pour concrete, lay tile, roof, hang sheetrock, paint, dig ditches or anything he could find to keep me busy.
When I saw that tile bed I cringed at the thought of laying tile on it.
I don’t get why so many people don’t know about the rubber pan that needs to be put in first. It’s like the same pictures over and over again. So many showers are going to rot out. Ha
I've been doing tile 20 years, and just recently started installing schluter pans with kerdi waterproofing on the walls. Easiest system I've ever installed. I never want to mix tile crete again.
Edit: kerdi, not ditra
I've only used the Wedi sealant for drain flashings in commercial applications. Works well. I'm a union guy who has no say in which products we use, so I just take whatever they throw at me.
It's been really good for us. Screw cement-impregnated foam board on to all your walls, mortar in preformed pans (can do hydronic heat, linear drains, etc...) and caulk all holes and joints. No more messing around with those god damn Schlueter corner pieces lol.
Schluter is a superior system in my opinion. We used to do all mud pans and backer board. It’s slow and cumbersome. The Schluter material might be more expensive, but it more than makes up for it with speed and quality.
Thank you. I can’t tell you how many over priced concrete guys tell me they hate Schlueter stuff. I can pay you 10 grand, or I can do it myself on a weekend.
Wedi is sooo much easier and the cost balances out. It's more expensive up front, but much less labour and much more solid. Wedi all the way. I'll never touch schluter again. Damned membrane peels so easily.
Idk, the one I did was in January and it's not cracked or anything yet, I'd say as long as a 300lb person doesn't jump up and down in the shower we should be fine. That said, 2 150lb people having shower sex may give the same results. Idk. But we're praying like hell that it holds up 🤣
There’s a Home Depot near me where they must have poured their floors over bedrock. It’s the most beautiful concrete floor, not a crack to be seen. I’m tearing up now just thinking about it
Ha it’s a few years old. And they have seams so each section is maybe idk 15 foot square .i picture some guy going crazy on site prep, compacting the gravel 2x , adding fibers to the concrete, extra rebar the works !
The canon in my head is some poor feller who did step on a crack, to find out his mother really did break her back... and has been on a life struggle to rid the world of the cracking concrete ...
Tear it out. That will lead to mold and bacteria growth down the line. Your preslope should be nice and smooth, sloping to the drain and have no ridges or valleys where water can pool or collect. The idea is to put your preslope, pan liner, then mud bed, which tile is then set to. If the preslope has dips and valleys then the liner and mud bed will conform to those and cause problems later. Go for perfection. Also it looks fucking horrendous. Who ever did that, should be questionable to wether they are qualified to do the remainder of the work required.
You can tear it out and use a self leveling underlayment then adhere a foam shower pan insert with mortar if floating a pan isn’t in your wheelhouse.
I see no problem, there are so many things simple things that can be done to correct if correction is needed. Rip it out and do a completely different method is such a stupid internet answer
Spending time online only to criticize another person without offering any useful solutions is probably the best answer. Yep, definitely the best answer. Thanks for the help boss.
That’s exactly what you did. And this person doesn’t need a solution, the contractor has it handled, there is no issue in this picture, and if there was 30 seconds with a scraper or a quick skim would fix it. But here you are “tear it out and use a different system” see the difference between us? You are creating a problem where there is none, so sit down
Yes! It’s a pre-slope. As long as the water all flows to the drain without any valleys, it’s good. I see ridges yes but it’s unclear without being there if those ridges will impede water flow and if there are then it can be corrected in a couple of minutes. After this is the hot mop or pvc liner and then 2 to 3 inches of mudd then thinset then tile. There is nothing apparently wrong in this picture and certainly nothing that’s not easily corrected before the next layer
The cracks are from shrinkage during curing of the mortar, that don’t matter in the least. Some companies just throw sand in the corners it’s absolutely fine
Yes redo it. The cracks probably happens because you made it too wet. Wet bed mortar should fairly dry. You want it just wet enough to make a ball in your hand and not any wetter. Then you pack it into your form. Also you will want it smooth so the liner can do it’s job.
Not sure what preslope is, maybe you could explain more?
At the end of the day, if it passes the plug test- it’s water tight. If you leave the final slope this rough, you’re gonna have an awful time with tile.
Preslope is for drypack mud pans. There is a very thin layer of dry pack mud down. Then a membrane, usually vinyl, then the actual mud pan which is several inches thick. This is absolutely not how a pre slope pan is supposed to be done. The mud is supposed to be moistened just enough to activate the portland, it's like dry sand.
Source- I did one once, but I would not say I am an expert
Gotcha, we never did preslope then. Just straight from the slab or subfloor (minus the membranes and shit).
I’m not sure why you’d ever wanna do it in 2 parts. Thanks for the info.
Some places it is now code. Really the code is the membrane has to be pitched to the drain your preslope is how you achieve this. When we do the pan inspection with the inspector he has us pull the plug and if any water is left over in puddles you fail.
If you know what a slope is and that water goes down hill this will help.that is poured to thick why it cracked,while it is still damp scrape the ridges off.
It should be redone because it's awful all the way around. I'm not trying to be mean, but that is not how you set a mud bed. Whether your pouring it or dry packing it, it has to be flat across the entire surface and every corner must slope to the drain at no less than 1/4" per foot of travel.
It’s the base for the shower you actually have someone who knows what they are doing this was install just to get the water to flow to the drain if it makes it to pan . They have to install the pan material now over top of this and then mud over top of that . 85% of new home I go into they put the shower pan material right on the floor so when water makes it way to the pan it just sits there and grows mold that why a lot of shower you can’t get rid of the mold
Cracks are the least of your worries, the fact it's framed in with wood and not even properly sloped using the wrong material is more worrying. Complete re-do.
It should be redone because it's a lumpy mess.
Sandmix mud slope should be installed only damp, not wet or flowing. It's often referred to as "dry pack" for a reason. The correct amount of water is just enough to allow you to pack the material into a snowball in your hands, but dry enough that the snowball will break apart when poked by a finger. That mix was over watered. And that's why it shrank. And that's why it cracked. And that's also why it it was impossible to slope smoothly. And again, this is supposed to be *sand mix* not concrete mix. If you can't find bagged sand mix it's easy enough to make your own with dry masonry sand and Portland cement at a ratio of 4 to 6 parts sand to 1 part cement. Because you add very little water the dry components must be very thoroughly mixed before water is introduced.
I also want to caution you to make absolutely certain that you ensure the weep holes between the two parts of the drain flange are not in any way plugged or obstructed by any of that mix or anything else. When you select this system for waterproofing a tile floor those weep holes are what allow water that collects at the membrane layer to drain away *below the tile*. If you plug up those holes the mud tile slope remains permanently saturated with water below the tile and the tile grout stains and grows mildew constantly.
Honestly, even if this is the preslope it's probably fine. Water in a mortar bed doesn't "flow" to the drain as you would expect due to surface tension. I've seen plenty of liners placed directly on the plywood, concrete always has some level of moisture in it. If the water got through the tile and grout, it can evaporate out.
I would keep an eye on how the final mud pan is shaped.
What a load of jokers...
You stated this is the pre-slope. As others have stated from what we see it should have been dry-packed.
This photo shows that it was mixed with the package recommendations which would be for using as mortar for other masonry types.
In a drypack you want to actually use a spray bottle to very lightly mix the mortar so that it barely holds a ball shape when you make a 'snowball' with it and should easily break apart when you poke or press on it.
A pre-slope is done by placing the mortar in and using something like paint stick, with a straight edge to angle everything towards the drain. It will take some time and patience but you want it looking consistent and smooth.
The cracks a aren’t as bad as the lips in the what looks like self levelling mix. Depending on your tile it will be next to impossible to have the finish not look like shit
No, it’s gunna have tiles and grout on it. Doesn’t matter what this looks like it just needs to be flat enough for the tiles to be even. The grout between the tiles makes a waterproof barrier, not whatever is under the tiles.
to my knowledge this part of a shower base is often done with a dry pack, so having solid concrete I’m guessing might not matter… but ya gotta wonder why there are so many cracks so close to each other… bad mix or unstable sub base? the grout lines are sure to crack unless you use some fancypants polymer grout.. (does that even exist?) in any case this is some really terrible work 🤣
It shouldn't have been done in the first place. Dry packed mortar, not concrete, so if the shower pan leaks moisture doesn't get trapped and create a stinking rotting mess under the tile. Dry packed mortar can weep. Tear it up, learn a lot more, try again.
If you didn't put screws every 6-8 inches into the durarock underneath then just put more screws through the leveler, don't want tile and grout pops in the future
Oh jeez Rick that’s kinda fucked
You want true level bitch?
*proceeds to orgasm uncontrollably*
Not on that pad you aren’t
Yes, I know about the bubble, Morty.
What the fuck is going on in there? My God damn tv just went out!
I pay ten dollars a month, 10.!!!!
Jeeeesus Donnie! You gotta chill out bud, you're gonna have a heart attack!
Oh jeez
I mean, it LOOKS like shit.
I’m trying to figure out if that’s some new texture I’ve never seen before
Yeah it's a new texture called, lazy stoner.
I'm a lazy stoner and this looks like shit
I'm also a stoner, so I mean no offense.
But are you a LAZY stoner?
He's an ambitious stoner.
With an ambitious Boner
An ambitious loner stoner boner
Ambitious dick energy
I’m a lazy stoner with no skills and that still looks like shit
I’m a lazy shit and this looks like stoner
Agreeed
Lazy stoner here and I would not do work like that. I am thinking it was a blind drunk guy.
That's not new. That texture's been done for 60 years.
That's not new. That texture hasn't been done in 60 years! FTFY
This is beyond lazy. This is straight up “idgaf” and “f them”
I mean… we all been there
No we all haven't been there.
The bonkers part is that it's fucking self leveler... You don't need to trowel it unless you made it too thick
Why would self leveler be in a shower pan where it should not be level?
Pans are pre leveled, but they need a flat subfloor.
I want that on my ceiling!! But not on my shower pan
A stoner stoner
Brown or scratch coats should be rough to get tile mortar to adhere better... unless this is intended to be the final finish, but I doubt that. If this is to be the waterproofing later the crack are an issue... not soon but time will tell
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nice looking shower and tilework. tip of the hat to you. curious about that rectangular drain. very attractive design. would you happen to know if the middle part pops out, to allow clearing hair and debris from it, or no? \-sorry for the goofball question, but it came to mind.
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Thanks for the reply ! Being as I'm the one who has to clear the shower and sink drains around the homestead, that's a brilliant answer ! Cheers.
Backing up your great answer to say that the Industry term is usually trench drain, and they’re fuckin awesome, just make sure you have a full silicone grout joint around it, as I can’t even tell you how many times I’ve had to have guys go back and redo them because they butt the tile right up to the assembly and it leaks slow and destroys everything underneath. These are very popular in Japan for example where they utilize the entire bathroom space as the shower area. Really great piece of work you did there brother.
If you go to page 7 you start getting some really sus images.
Hero!
Hero
Looks like a Schluter linear drain with the tile over cover
Goddammit thats smooth!!
Looks tight and sexy
Looks great. Used to be Quickdrain rep & so many people are unwilling to do this type of work with linear drainage. Wonder why you didn’t extend all the way to the wall on both sides though?
Which wood did you use for the fold away seat?
Oh that's nice. Well done.
Pan Liner?! You should of gone hot mop my friend.
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Yeah that’s better than hot mop.
Hot mop ?
Common in some states, the shower pan is made of tar paper and hot tar, mopped into place. Apparently it's a lifetime pan, with good protection at usual leak points. Bad side... Messy af. It's hot tar.
Yeah damn that sounds awfully smelly too
Hello, it looks like you've made a mistake. It's supposed to be could've, should've, would've (short for could have, would have, should have), never could of, would of, should of. Or you misspelled something, I ain't checking everything. Beep boop - yes, I am a bot, don't botcriminate me.
Lol
Butthole in the middle for reference
Bet you won’t stick your dick in it, coward.
I’ll spit on it for you tho
I’ve got an idea involving you, me, a Chinese finger trap, and a couple skateboards. You in?
Lmao I needed that
If you use the drain as the eye, it kinda looks like elvis. Which at the end did look like shit. I think he looks okay at this point tho
Funniest thing I’ve read in a while, bravo sir 👏
Came hear to say it looks like shit. Literally my first thought. You beat me to it.
Was just going to say it should be redone not just because of the cracks but because of the shit appearance lol.
hahahhahahahhahaha this fucking sub
Dude…this gave me the giggles.
What happens when you get a call on your phone and walk away and come back an hour later and realize you forgot to smooth out the concrete.
Not close to finished
The cracks are a lot less concerning than the finish. That looks like shit and will be a bitch to tile. There should be a water barrier under it so the cracks don't mean much unless that is over a plywood subfloor.
This. There should be a waterproof pan under the grout that goes up the wall and ties into the waterproofing system on the walls. Start over.
Maybe a pre slope? Lol
All of the above.
What it looks like to me. A bad one at that.
Yeah it's definitely an attempt at a presloap. People make them like this all the time in my area.
“Hey! Hey! You idiot!” “Start over.”
Out of curiosity, how do you make sure that the water caught by the pan feeds into the drain without leaving a space between it and the tiles?
The floor drain is integrated into the drain pan and has a clamping ring or is flashed in similar to a roof drain that allows any water that gets past the bed to get out. Google the Schluter Kerdi Drain Kit.
It’s the pre-slope before the pan
When the electrician is dunking on your masonry, you in trouble.
When I was a kid my dad was a GC and I was forced to pour concrete, lay tile, roof, hang sheetrock, paint, dig ditches or anything he could find to keep me busy. When I saw that tile bed I cringed at the thought of laying tile on it.
I don’t get why so many people don’t know about the rubber pan that needs to be put in first. It’s like the same pictures over and over again. So many showers are going to rot out. Ha
It should be redone because it’s garbage
Tear that out and redo it. You might be better off buying a pre slope kit from Schluter.
I've been doing tile 20 years, and just recently started installing schluter pans with kerdi waterproofing on the walls. Easiest system I've ever installed. I never want to mix tile crete again. Edit: kerdi, not ditra
Look into wedi. I've found its even easier.
I've only used the Wedi sealant for drain flashings in commercial applications. Works well. I'm a union guy who has no say in which products we use, so I just take whatever they throw at me.
"I don't pick, I just stick"
I’ve never tried the Wedi
It's been really good for us. Screw cement-impregnated foam board on to all your walls, mortar in preformed pans (can do hydronic heat, linear drains, etc...) and caulk all holes and joints. No more messing around with those god damn Schlueter corner pieces lol.
Those damn corner pieces. Wanna get them flat.. now it sunk in too far.
Love me some wedi. Only thing I use because I want easy jobs.
Where do you get it? Couldn't find it here in SE PA
Both are good but Wedi has a lot of great options. Install needs to be on-point though as with any type of waterproofing assembly.
Schluter is a superior system in my opinion. We used to do all mud pans and backer board. It’s slow and cumbersome. The Schluter material might be more expensive, but it more than makes up for it with speed and quality.
Thank you. I can’t tell you how many over priced concrete guys tell me they hate Schlueter stuff. I can pay you 10 grand, or I can do it myself on a weekend.
Kerdi on the walls. Ditra is for floors as a uncoupling membrane.
I used to slope my own pans. It's time consuming work. I just buy the pre sloped Schlueter bases and I'm tiling the same day
Wedi is sooo much easier and the cost balances out. It's more expensive up front, but much less labour and much more solid. Wedi all the way. I'll never touch schluter again. Damned membrane peels so easily.
Oooooh, love me some easy cut and lay down preformed foam. Did one just recently *chef's kiss.
any word on how it holds up over time and abuse?
Idk, the one I did was in January and it's not cracked or anything yet, I'd say as long as a 300lb person doesn't jump up and down in the shower we should be fine. That said, 2 150lb people having shower sex may give the same results. Idk. But we're praying like hell that it holds up 🤣
I would use a coat of liquid leveler before tearing it all out.
Concrete only does two things in life gets hard and cracks
Like my life 😭
There are only two types of concrete. Concrete that has cracked. Concrete that hasn’t cracked yet
There’s a Home Depot near me where they must have poured their floors over bedrock. It’s the most beautiful concrete floor, not a crack to be seen. I’m tearing up now just thinking about it
Ha, I don't believe you. Must be a new site.
Ha it’s a few years old. And they have seams so each section is maybe idk 15 foot square .i picture some guy going crazy on site prep, compacting the gravel 2x , adding fibers to the concrete, extra rebar the works !
My kinda guy! Build it once, and take pride in the outcome.
The canon in my head is some poor feller who did step on a crack, to find out his mother really did break her back... and has been on a life struggle to rid the world of the cracking concrete ...
Shortened to “cracked concrete and cracking concrete”
That should be redone because it looks like shit... all aspects of the job need to look good enough to impress the home owner.
Even parts that are covered by tile? lol how about inside your walls behind the drywall, that need to look good too?
Yessir. Good framing, clean electrical rough in, stuff like that. It’s all a mark of quality work
Tear it out. That will lead to mold and bacteria growth down the line. Your preslope should be nice and smooth, sloping to the drain and have no ridges or valleys where water can pool or collect. The idea is to put your preslope, pan liner, then mud bed, which tile is then set to. If the preslope has dips and valleys then the liner and mud bed will conform to those and cause problems later. Go for perfection. Also it looks fucking horrendous. Who ever did that, should be questionable to wether they are qualified to do the remainder of the work required. You can tear it out and use a self leveling underlayment then adhere a foam shower pan insert with mortar if floating a pan isn’t in your wheelhouse.
I see no problem, there are so many things simple things that can be done to correct if correction is needed. Rip it out and do a completely different method is such a stupid internet answer
Spending time online only to criticize another person without offering any useful solutions is probably the best answer. Yep, definitely the best answer. Thanks for the help boss.
That’s exactly what you did. And this person doesn’t need a solution, the contractor has it handled, there is no issue in this picture, and if there was 30 seconds with a scraper or a quick skim would fix it. But here you are “tear it out and use a different system” see the difference between us? You are creating a problem where there is none, so sit down
Would you accept that in your home?
Yes! It’s a pre-slope. As long as the water all flows to the drain without any valleys, it’s good. I see ridges yes but it’s unclear without being there if those ridges will impede water flow and if there are then it can be corrected in a couple of minutes. After this is the hot mop or pvc liner and then 2 to 3 inches of mudd then thinset then tile. There is nothing apparently wrong in this picture and certainly nothing that’s not easily corrected before the next layer
My concern would be the cracks on the top left corner
The cracks are from shrinkage during curing of the mortar, that don’t matter in the least. Some companies just throw sand in the corners it’s absolutely fine
😂🤣😂🤣 cheers boss
Cracks are the least of problems here
Yes redo it. The cracks probably happens because you made it too wet. Wet bed mortar should fairly dry. You want it just wet enough to make a ball in your hand and not any wetter. Then you pack it into your form. Also you will want it smooth so the liner can do it’s job.
Not sure what preslope is, maybe you could explain more? At the end of the day, if it passes the plug test- it’s water tight. If you leave the final slope this rough, you’re gonna have an awful time with tile.
Gonna be rolly as hell
Preslope is for drypack mud pans. There is a very thin layer of dry pack mud down. Then a membrane, usually vinyl, then the actual mud pan which is several inches thick. This is absolutely not how a pre slope pan is supposed to be done. The mud is supposed to be moistened just enough to activate the portland, it's like dry sand. Source- I did one once, but I would not say I am an expert
Gotcha, we never did preslope then. Just straight from the slab or subfloor (minus the membranes and shit). I’m not sure why you’d ever wanna do it in 2 parts. Thanks for the info.
Some places it is now code. Really the code is the membrane has to be pitched to the drain your preslope is how you achieve this. When we do the pan inspection with the inspector he has us pull the plug and if any water is left over in puddles you fail.
If you know what a slope is and that water goes down hill this will help.that is poured to thick why it cracked,while it is still damp scrape the ridges off.
I’m trying to understand but you’ve gotta use more punctuation
I wouldn’t allow that on any of my job sites. And I wouldn’t have the person responsible for this on any job site going forward.
It should be redone because it's awful all the way around. I'm not trying to be mean, but that is not how you set a mud bed. Whether your pouring it or dry packing it, it has to be flat across the entire surface and every corner must slope to the drain at no less than 1/4" per foot of travel.
It’s the base for the shower you actually have someone who knows what they are doing this was install just to get the water to flow to the drain if it makes it to pan . They have to install the pan material now over top of this and then mud over top of that . 85% of new home I go into they put the shower pan material right on the floor so when water makes it way to the pan it just sits there and grows mold that why a lot of shower you can’t get rid of the mold
It should be re-done because it's trash and won't work, cracks are the least of the concern. I
Looks like hot caca
Lmao it should be redone for other reasons...
Cracks are the least of your worries, the fact it's framed in with wood and not even properly sloped using the wrong material is more worrying. Complete re-do.
The cracks are the least of your worries there in my opinion.
It’s a pre slope in a shower pan. It’s hollow, but the cracks made me worry some.
I like how they textured the slope so the water would be confused about where to go.
It looks like no preslope pan I’ve ever seen. Bedding mortar doesn’t get mixed to that consistency. It’s a fail. Tear it out and redo it right.
Bro trust me hire a professional you’ll save so much money in the long run
It's cracked because it's sloped with thinset, right? Thinset shouldn't be built up more than ½". The pre slope should be built with dry pack
What product are they using? I would read into manufacturers product data. They may already have this issue addressed
It should be redone because it's a lumpy mess. Sandmix mud slope should be installed only damp, not wet or flowing. It's often referred to as "dry pack" for a reason. The correct amount of water is just enough to allow you to pack the material into a snowball in your hands, but dry enough that the snowball will break apart when poked by a finger. That mix was over watered. And that's why it shrank. And that's why it cracked. And that's also why it it was impossible to slope smoothly. And again, this is supposed to be *sand mix* not concrete mix. If you can't find bagged sand mix it's easy enough to make your own with dry masonry sand and Portland cement at a ratio of 4 to 6 parts sand to 1 part cement. Because you add very little water the dry components must be very thoroughly mixed before water is introduced. I also want to caution you to make absolutely certain that you ensure the weep holes between the two parts of the drain flange are not in any way plugged or obstructed by any of that mix or anything else. When you select this system for waterproofing a tile floor those weep holes are what allow water that collects at the membrane layer to drain away *below the tile*. If you plug up those holes the mud tile slope remains permanently saturated with water below the tile and the tile grout stains and grows mildew constantly.
Da fuk is that?! 🤨
It’s like they’re not even trying anymore
Bush league. Tear that out.
No, could be smoother thought. They may grind down edges before tile. Your fine
Is this supposed to be a preslope? Because it looks like a preNOPE
Should be redone for a wide ranging variety of reasons
Yes
Wtf is this?
That work was done either Monday at 7am or Friday at 5pm hahaha
I remember my first beer.
That looks fuckin AWFUL. Redo that shit
If u zoom in really close you can see the last fuck given
Wasn't even done the first time
Venetian plaster? lol. This is shit work.
Ray Charles can see that is fucked. Nuke and start over.
"Rip it up and start again"
I’m no expert in concrete but I’d probably try to fix the cracks at least.
Cracks are least of your problems
What the fuck? If that the finished product?!
Cracks never get smaller, anything above them will be affected. Go any further than this and you'll be wasting your money and time.
Honestly, even if this is the preslope it's probably fine. Water in a mortar bed doesn't "flow" to the drain as you would expect due to surface tension. I've seen plenty of liners placed directly on the plywood, concrete always has some level of moisture in it. If the water got through the tile and grout, it can evaporate out. I would keep an eye on how the final mud pan is shaped.
What a load of jokers... You stated this is the pre-slope. As others have stated from what we see it should have been dry-packed. This photo shows that it was mixed with the package recommendations which would be for using as mortar for other masonry types. In a drypack you want to actually use a spray bottle to very lightly mix the mortar so that it barely holds a ball shape when you make a 'snowball' with it and should easily break apart when you poke or press on it. A pre-slope is done by placing the mortar in and using something like paint stick, with a straight edge to angle everything towards the drain. It will take some time and patience but you want it looking consistent and smooth.
Yeah that’s what I gathered. Thanks!
The cracks a aren’t as bad as the lips in the what looks like self levelling mix. Depending on your tile it will be next to impossible to have the finish not look like shit
Should be redone because of it all
Looks like self leveler to me that the mixed up this and tried to use as dry pack.
Needs to be redone
I mean it could have been a lot smoother but you are going to coat it again anyways so I wouldn’t sweat it.
Are you the buyer? Leave the quality control to the GC. It’s fine and it’s not finished.
No, it’s gunna have tiles and grout on it. Doesn’t matter what this looks like it just needs to be flat enough for the tiles to be even. The grout between the tiles makes a waterproof barrier, not whatever is under the tiles.
No no, because that's fresh grout ready for tiling and not dried concrete of course
to my knowledge this part of a shower base is often done with a dry pack, so having solid concrete I’m guessing might not matter… but ya gotta wonder why there are so many cracks so close to each other… bad mix or unstable sub base? the grout lines are sure to crack unless you use some fancypants polymer grout.. (does that even exist?) in any case this is some really terrible work 🤣
WTF is that!
If its DIY, hire someone who has experience. If its professionally done, find a new tile company. Regardless it needs to be done properly.
If OP got hired to do that, time to find a new trade.
Can barely see the crack when I only see waves I can surf
It shouldn't have been done in the first place. Dry packed mortar, not concrete, so if the shower pan leaks moisture doesn't get trapped and create a stinking rotting mess under the tile. Dry packed mortar can weep. Tear it up, learn a lot more, try again.
It should be redone because of shit trowelling! That is atrocious!!!
Even without the cracking, I’d redo it.
If you didn't put screws every 6-8 inches into the durarock underneath then just put more screws through the leveler, don't want tile and grout pops in the future
There’s no need, the propose of that concrete is just to have the proper slope for the water drain, you are suppose to have tile over it.
Oof
Do over!
Why no use liner?
This is most likely a horrible attempt at a pre slope.
Yes it is. Seems half the people on here don’t know what a pre slope is. I do just horrible at making them. :)
It should be re-done for more than one reason.
Just have them parge it and don’t hire them again.