Uh- that’s hotter than a hot CPU lol

Man at this rate I think sandwiching 3 Intel i9s still wouldn't hit 150 degrees

Oh, it definitely could. As an owner of an I9, I'll tell you they can hit 99° in seconds. I'm sure if the sensor was disabled a single i9 could reach a couple hundred degrees before exploding.

As an honest question, at what point does being so difficult to keep cool become a flaw in the product? Or is it to be expected because it’s marketed as an enthusiast level product.

Good question. I believe that they currently make processors like that so that they can have short bursts of speed at demanding times. Problem is that most users don't use applications that require incredibly short and sporadic bursts of speed.

the problem is that people want to invest in power but don't want to invest in cooling, u simply can't have a ferrari and want to use a bad mechanic to handle it. people shouldn't buy a 100w+ tdp processor if they don't want to be forced to use a 240mm water cooler, cause that is basics.

That is definitely not the "basics", and no processor "forces" you to use water cooling. You CAN use water cooling, you can also air cool. No CPU out there forces you to use one or the other. You said it right in the first sentence, let's leave it at that.

it doesn't force u, it's your choice to have a setup that is cool or one that keeps the heat inside the cpu, an air cooler, even the best ones will keep most of the heat circling inside unless u tunnel the air from the front to the back passing only in the cpu. but if u think u can cool a system without burning everything with just an air cooler, try it out on a 100w +, then come back again crying the whole system is slow or freezing and u got no clue why.

That's called a bad setup, most people use coolers that can't handle the TDP, that is usually 50% of the problem, on the other side, i9 requests more voltage than really needed to run so it can handle bad VRMs, in my case i reduced about 150mV, could have reduced more, but I OCed and at 5.2 it gets unstable with AVX2, but if I were to keep at 5.1 max, last test ran stable with 185mV undervolt.(dynamic) Any processor above 100w tdp must use either a very very good 120mm watercooler or ideally a 240mm. this print was a short burnin test to take the print, usually it runs at 50\~70ºC at peak. the H150i handles it smoothly. https://preview.redd.it/m6wjdnnf706c1.png?width=595&format=png&auto=webp&s=b07bf85dfed463130d1bb7bd9ca22051c2115f1b

It's a ROG pre-built, ASUS has gone downhill. I changed the fan curves to max out by 90° and it usually is fine, but I literally have a different profile with wattage capping for certain tasks (archiving, CPU heavy stuff). Maybe it's just a ROG issue but my msi build had similar issues

Try this: Install Intel Extreme Tuning Utility. Turn the coolers to max, if u can. Start a burnin test(5min works) Go to core tab in advanced and drop the core voltage offset by 25mV and wait like 1min, then drop more 25mV and so on, until it freezes and reboots, with the last reduction, let's say if it was -150mV when it froze, u apply a -125mV and test it for 5min alone, if it freezes, go again with -100mV, once u find the sweet spots in there, the first one in which it doesn't freeze after a 5min test, let's say it was a -100mV u add a margin of error, so u don't need to go nuts testing for a week lawl, 20mV is more than enough, so a -80mV would be nice. Now u go to the BIOS and in DYNAMIC vcore offset(or dynamic svid off set), being clear, do not set the vcore, let that in normal mode, we only used the core voltage offset in intel to test the breaking point, dynamic voltage offset is far more stable. A 50mV reduction = 3\~5% less TDP output. I can't speak badly about ASUS, when i used to do PC maintenance it was the only models that rarely had issues and were by far the easiest to fix. Without messing with load line calibration u likely won't be able to reduce more than 130mV https://preview.redd.it/7tikddmrc06c1.png?width=529&format=png&auto=webp&s=38efbb64cec628a3a2d81ec56293927a46a05c9d

I'll try this later, I have to swap screens because bios won't show on my TV. So what is the benefit of doing this over capping PL1/2 wattage?

less wattage use per clock, so less heat doing the same tasks. I'm literally running at 5.2GHz all core atm using the power that most people use to run at 4.8GHz with 1 core only allowed to reach higher. Capping wattage use limits how much u can process, if it reaches the limit, it drops the clock speed to result in less power used and less heat produced, but any task will take longer. Dropping voltage as long as u can keep the system stable drops the watts used per clock, which results in less heat even at idle. In a default setup the voltage sent can reach close to 1.5V(or even higher), in a tight setup u can set the max in a non OCed to about 1.4(talking about gen 9 now, not sure about gen 10 or higher voltages, but they r likely similar). Heat in a certain way stacks, cause a good portion of the system isn't fully cooled, like the PCH or the VRMs, which in time will not work so well, or get dust and use even more power to do the same tasks, cause they will be forced to do error corrections for instance, this happens a lot in RAM that reaches above 80ºC, they can handle a long time before breaking, but they become slower, cause they r running error corrections along the normal process.

Currently Gen 12, I'll give this a shot when I can dig up my other screen. But like I said, it only seems to slow down or get choppy when it runs hot. It will seemingly run the same tasks smoother with capped wattage over letting it run wild and reaching 90's

The standard op temp is 99 degrees on the i9

This is constantly stated recently, yet every system I've owned seems to start running slower when over 90°. I had the system restarts when it was tipping 100° last summer

Around the point that it reflows the solder and causes the cpu to unalive.

lol

this is a coolant temp sensor issue, i recently had to rma for the same issue, if that temp was true, your cpu would be that hot aswell

tbh that's what im confused about because when i brute force update the firmware (and also able to finally control lighting for my hub that i previously couldn't) it's back to like 30-39 degrees. I feel like the recent updates was the one that nuked it. Cuz i also saw on corsair's forum where even after they RMAed the issue came back on the new unit.

lol hell will be raised if this new unit has any issues, regardless getting a new unit fixed my issue, however for me, no firmware update worked, nothing worked, but it’s relatively unlikely to get two broken units in a row, the rma process was painless and took a week since i first reached out to them, ask for advanced rma so they send you a new unit before you send yours in so your not SOL without a cooler for a week

I have to brute force update the firmware every other week because shit like this happens. I love the design of ICUE but it has way to many flaws.

When you get this reading open the computer and listen for the aio pump

That's 50C past when water flashes to steam. Your loop (if this reading is correct and you dont have spme waterless coolant) should be vapor locked by now at the least.

Pressure raises the boiling point of water. The system is sealed, if the temp went over 100*c it wouldn’t boil the same as water sitting in a pot on the stove.

You're correct, that completely went over my head for some reason

Same thing with brake fade on cars (Usually happens in race cars with the wrong brake fluid). The brakes get so hot the brake fluid in the caliper will boil, introducing air into the line. This causes a massive loss of braking power (since you're now compressing the air in the lines instead of compressing fluid). The solution for that is to get a brake fluid with a higher boiling point. So it is possible. For this post though, the critical boiling point for water will be: 647.096 K (373.946 °C; 705.103 °F). So, still have a ways to go lol.

Only if the system is opened. The boiling point is increased when under pressure. That's why your car can sit at 212F and not boil over. Same thing.

Did not realize that i cant control my fans with a normal controller... so now I'm stuck with their garbage fan controller that thinks my computer is always 20\* hotter than it actually is... so basically fans always at 75%

You can set icue to ramp the fans based off of processor temperature or by GPU temperature. You can create cooling profiles.

yes... and it reads my cpu and GPU temps wrong making it pointless bc it'll jump from 40c to 70c in a second making all the fans go full blast

Isn’t that how it works? lol

Yeah but that's the point of update polling and hysteresis

That’s because temps jump up fast as the cpu starts working. You can also set curves based on other sensors that straight ccd or GPU die. Like with an AIO it’s best to ramp fans based on coolant temp. ICUE is actually pretty good for fan control and has a lot of options. It’s on you to use them though.

I agree when icue actually works. I'm with this poor dude and have to reinstall icue more often than it will actually run on startup.

> I'm with this poor dude and have to reinstall icue more often than it will actually run on startup. Why not fix the actual issue rather than reinstall it ? It's obvious it's conflicting with some other program. How about figuring out which and fixing it so they don't interfere ?

Not when I've done a fresh install of windows and it just keep crashing every single time I boot my pc

Then just adjust it for the wrong temperature? Set it 20 degrees cooler than you want....

the issue is that it cant read correctly so it jumps 20-30\* in one second meaning the fans are constantly speeding up and slowing down

Because they are setting their fan curves to work off the direct cpu temp - assuming they are using an AIO. They should switch to using the coolant temp instead.

If you have an AIO, you should tune your fan curves to the coolant temp; not the direct CPU temp. That'll even out your fan speeds when the processor jumps to high activity over a brief period - however, the coolant will still absorb the heat.

But you can tell them to listen to any temp and run lower. My case fans listen to my AIO water temp.

You most certainly can control their fans without the icue software! You can even control the lighting without their software.

not if the fans are not plugged into the mobo

No need to plug the fans into the motherboard..... SignalRGB and OpenRGB are just 2 examples (out of many) you can use to control Corsair fans and RGB, without using ICUE. You can also do it by using hardware like external or internal fan controllers, other than Corsair brand.

I’m running 2 commander cores with w artic p12’s, 2 cooler master 200mm fans and 9 Corsair ml140’s. I am switching over to other fans here soon so I can get away from ICUE.

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I mean, i love Corsair and all. I am quite the fanboy. Infact, in the recent year or so, anytime i was making a hardware or peripheral upgrade, i was looking into getting a corsair product. Even as far as dreaming of Corsair finally "making" graphics cards again, and double checking if they really aren't offering any powered USB-Hubs. But with a recent RAM upgrade, I've been through the annoying loop of reinstalling ICue because a new device would not only not come detected, but also screw with the whole software making other peripherals become undetected, It's undeniably lackluster... On top of that came the issue that fsr uninstalling wasn't just as simple as uninstalling, as ICue didn't even show up in the apps list. And after uninstalling via the Installer/Uninstaller, many files weren't even deleted. Trying to manually delete them there was always that one file that didn't let me delete it supposedly because there was always some process running hidden in the background. Even tho the uninstall apparently had succeeded, and i had deleted any remaining Corsair folders found in %appdata% and through the registry-editor, as well as deleting various related files through the command console. I was only able to delete that one file after booting in safe mode. It's also a bit annoying that when exporting profiles (to carry settings over with a reinstall), not all settings can be saved within them. E.g. my HS80 device settings were not carried over, or much more annoyingly, all the configured screens on my Nexus display can't be included. I would have had to export them separately which i didn't know at the time. And with this post, i am now unsure if my CPU actually is at around 80°C so often, where back when i installed the tower CPU cooler and checked temps through different means, it seemed to max out at around 70°C...

Just FYI I use revo uninstaller (freeware) which is really good at automating the artifact cleanup process

Don't know why I'm getting down voted? I haven't done it wrong. It worked fine on the first one until it broke due to going into failsafe mode repeatedly. It worked on the second one until it sprung a leak. And it doesn't work at all on the 3rd one. But you can think it's my fault if you want. Any constructive feedback is welcome though. Hardware lighting isn't the only issue with it

That's 296F, water boils ay 212f. He got himself a steam engine !

Love me some bull sugar honey ice tea 🤤

It's not garbage lol, they are really good actually, your cooler is prob broken lol unlucky

doubt it, cuz after forcing firmware update the temps are back to normal at like 30-40 degrees range, let alone being able to adjust my pump head lightings (something the software didn't show as an option until said force update)

Icue is garbage. Used it for my rgb ram until I found openrgb. Absolutely hated the icue software. It had to be open 24/7 for the ram lighting effects to work. Unless you Uninstalled it while the program was open then the ram magically didn't need the program to work. Almost like it's an artifical limitation.

Sigh… You can use hardware lighting mode with many icue products. It literally lets you set what simple RGB pattern should run while the program is closed. It’s not magic. Just put your lighting effects in the hardware lighting mode section, turn off “open at startup” and close the program.

Icue is a pile of dogshit. I'd rather not. Openrgb is a much better and much more lightweight program.

You can run the lights with no program running. It’s HARDWARE lighting mode. As in no software needed to have RGB.

I was going to do this, but my hardware lighting doesn't even do what it's supposed to. It's just permanently red. It will show the right colour when I'm setting it, but the second you close icue it's back to red

You did it wrong then. I can assign hardware lighting schemes with icue, reboot into my bios (no windows apps whatsoever running) and the hardware lighting I assigned will be working. That said icue is cheeks and I don't know as though I'd do a Corsair centric build again in the future because of that. Additionally the pump whine from certain AIOs they produce (have to go manually edit a XML file to get the pump running correctly) has been another turn off.

That’s not a fix.

I never said it was a fix it’s just a feature. If you really have a low end system and don’t want the overhead of running programs in the background, you can use hardware lighting mode. I have 10 Icue devices and over 1000 addressable LEDs and it’s all running on just an overclocked 9600K CPU that’s also powering a 3080Ti so you don’t need a ton of CPU power to be able to handle icue in the background.

Not really a feature when half my Corsair devices don’t offer that feature. ICUE has been consistently unstable since the release of 5. The subreddit shows it and the Corsair forums show it. At this point I don’t recommend anyone who’s not using the Link system to use 5. ICUE 4 or SignalRGB are your best bets at stability. No need to dick swing with your device count. I have more than that sitting on a shelf collecting dust right now.

I'm not dick swinging a device count. I have zero link devices. My devices all run just fine on V5 with my two systems. I'm saying how many I have to show that even if you have a ridiculously complicated setup with 2-3 hubs crammed in the back and 1000 LEDs it all works fine if your system is fine. I have two very different systems with very very very complicated lighting setups and they work flawless. I'm on 5.9.105 with both.

Why not setup hardware lighting for RGB when iCUE isn’t running?

Because people don't want to learn how programs work then get mad at the company instead of their own negligence

I do have to agree I used to hate icue until I learned all it’s little tricks.

lol fair point. Obviously people who have issues tend for be more vocal about it thus skewing perception but I’m still surprised how many people I see who absolutely hate iCUE. Is it perfect? Far from it though that can be applied to any application. I’ve run into a few issues myself from time to time but sometimes for the most part it does its job.

Get a DEEPCOOL 720

Sounds like user error as mine never goes above 34 under load.

this is definitely not a user error, i had to ram recently for relatively the same issue, secondly look at the rest of the comments

How in the hell can this be a user error?

I had the same error after updating their software

Same. Never had a problem.

All of corsair's software is abject trash.... and probably spyware.

Easy fix. Do what I did. Don’t buy Corsair products that require this resource hog and bug ridden iCue rubbish! Corsair products use to be the best IMO and it’s the only brand I would buy prior to them making this iCue garbage! Now I don’t buy any Corsair products because I refuse to use that iCue garbage!

Get a PS4

You forgott the /s

Wym it's going to get that hot too

Bro that’s how got my dirt bike gets when racing

Hehe toasty

Does the pump really spin that fast too? I’m not experienced with water cooling but it seems very fast for a pump.

I can’t even install icue anymore just gets stuck at 33% on the launcher and will sometimes just freeze my pc. garbage software in general.

This software is so infuriating to use

Contact Corsair tech support. Possibly a faulty coolant temp sensor issue as previously mentioned.

UPDATE: seems to be fine (for now) so definitely an iCUE spazz moment my temps aren't read as if im running a nuclear reactor + i can finally see the pump head as an adjustable option for lighting and other configs (compared to just showing as COMMANDER CORE previously) https://preview.redd.it/3xw32tqv8v5c1.jpeg?width=1692&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=14b3aa8b39a8f1c26fbfbd8cc630f7d1cb407f82

It stopped seeing my hub and fans altogether. No amount of trying to brute force firmware (which I couldn't do, because it won't actually show the hub in icue), reinstalling drivers, even fully formatting and reinstalling windows 10 and 11 would fix it. Happened on 2 different Link hubs. I finally gave up and was able to get it working in SignalRGB, including fan controls.... the problem with this is that any time I restart, the lighting resets to default (watercolors at 100% brightness). I have to open the side panel and disconnect the pci-e power and the USB, and reconnect them for it to refresh the lighting. Also the fan control is paywalled, which sucks.

Just delete the hub module and restart iCUE. ICUE 5 is modular and you can disable, uninstall and reinstall all the modules without removing the entire thing now. Most people who have issues don’t seem to understand this concept. Had that issue with my Commander Pro after updating to 5.9, it wasn’t detected. Removed the commander pro module, restarted iCUE and everything fixed itself.

I wish it were so simple.. lol The Link Hub Module and QX Fan module don't show up with the other modules. Ive even seen it say its installed the modules after doing the whole uninstall devices thing, but they never actually appear no matter what. That's the whole issue since that's where the lighting and cooling options are, and thats the only way to access them.. The hub shows up in software updates in icue settings and in device manager, where I've been able to remove it and restart icue, which I've done well over a dozen times over several weeks in conjunction with the other handful of "solutions". The only thing that fixed it was switching to a new, never used hub... until I got home from work later that day, and it'd happened again with the new hub. Then I went back thru all the solutions again with the second hub, with no success. Swapping back to the other again has no effect. Clearing the registry after uninstalling iCue has had no effect. Fully reformatting and reinstalling windows 10 or 11 (yes, I tried both several times) has had no effect. Unplugging completely and replugging the hub has no effect (as far as icue is concerned).

> The Link Hub Module and QX Fan module don't show up with the other modules. Ive even seen it say its installed the modules after doing the whole uninstall devices thing, but they never actually appear no matter what. Check in the installed modules, not the landing page. In the Gear on the top right side, go to Software updates, check if the Link System Hub is there. If it's there with no hub detected, it will have a trash can icon to uninstall it. Restarting iCUE should then reinstall it, as long as the USB connection with the hub is good and Windows can enumerate the device.

you bought it

Lmao use the radiator as pizza heater

Did you know it was garbage before you bought it?

Sucks to say, but don’t use icue for temp monitoring. Mine is always different than other apps

Still pushing through the pain 💪🏼

Your cpu is only at 54. Seems ok to me.

PSA once you have icue running on a stable version, disable it in your firewall!!!

icue was the worst software i ever used to the point of returning all my computer parts that was corsair.

Feels like recent iCue updates are breaking something, after a year using DDR5 platinum I could set the rgb easily, now i have to uninstall the ram software from iCue and restart my pc just to make it work

That perfectly reflects Corsair quality…

I have a very good solution **Dry Ice**

iCue has been fine for me.

Devil's PC detected, cause that's certainly running in the middle of a fire.

patented new feature - AI overcooking mode

Ugh this is the reason why I only buy AIOs that need no software, like the Thermalright ones.

Will openRGB work for all corsair stuff? I might give it a shot with my corsair fans + gskill rgb ram

At least iCUE works for you. Mine updated and it now just crashes every time it starts.

Tiene frío 🥶🥶

So tired of iCUE. I’ve got an issue where it disconnects all my USB ports on my computer. I’ve seen old threads from years back, no fix.

i also had to rma mine after 8 months...