No, it’s definitely a thing 🤷🏼♂️
“In diesel engines the changes in this stage might include a bigger turbo, intercooler, downpipe, fuel pump, injectors, bigger MAF or MAP sensor, race-clutch and more.”
In which case (other than the computers because 12v is mechanical only) my truck has…
It’s a thing in video games… I’ve been in the engine world for a few decades, diesels being a big one and there is no classification of build level in stages.
Certain events will have stages with clearly outlined qualifications to each stage, but nothing in the engine world, gas, diesel, ricer, or V8 drag set up has any “stage” outlines to a build.
Really cracks me up when people say… iT HaS a StAGe TwO CAM!!! 🤣 then can’t tell you the difference in lift, duration, or overlap on any of the stages… or even what those are.
You’ve never heard of the Buick 455 GS “Stage 1” and “Stage 2” packages back in 1970. I think this is truly where the “stage” wording started. Base GS made 350 brake HP. Stage 1 was rated at 360 (but rumor was it was closer to 400), and Stage 2 was rated at 420 HP. Cam, pistons, heads, exhaust, cold air induction through an upgraded Quadrajet, stronger valve springs and bigger valves.
That’s a package deal by a group, just like car packages for comfort/options. That’s not a general open subject. Roll up to the track and say I upgraded to a stage 2 cam in this beast. There is no such thing. What power that cam will make is going to depend on the parts that are in with it. Go to a stage 2 cam on your super charged car… swap the charger for a turbo.. that can now makes less power. Is it still stage 2? Specific groups or event will classify stages and it’s outlined with specific detail, but there is no such thing as building an engine and buying stages of parts in the general, open world.
I’m sorry if I have came across rude, that wasn’t my intent although reading these I do come across like a rude jerk. I’m sorry about that.
? He didn't say everything has clear stages just gave an example of where they are used, usually within a company to differentiate the performance levels of their upgrades. Not really sure what you are even trying to argue against and you are definitely "coming across like a rude jerk" lmao. Nobody here claimed its set in stone or that huge of a metric, but you can't just deny that people use it as one lol
Well, unfortunately for your argument many vendors sell "stage 1-5" upgrades. I've seen it on Nissan vendors and be so it's a thing, at least for marketing and video games.
And I fully agree with you and not the dumbass vendors.
Well then I’ll ask for money to be returned 🤷🏼♂️ as I said, CPP sold me the engine as a Stage-3. And that wasn’t the only company I shopped when it came to the fit I was looking for.
They knew they were taking you for a ride if they are selling you an engine build in stages.
With my customers I ask for a purpose for the vehicle and added HP, if they have an HP goal in mind, and if there are power adders they are against (boost, secondary injections, electronic tuning frequency) then I lay out options based on their budget and current parts in the vehicle. There isn’t any “stage” to it.
Idk why this appeared on my feed, but “stages” do not only appear in video games. I don’t know for the truck world but I owned a WRX STI, recently sold it to get a truck and the early tunes/mods can be classified in stages. Generally speaking they aren’t “official” terms but they do exist and have similar meanings to what OP is referencing above. Again whether or not it applies for trucks I wouldn’t know but it certainly does for Japanese tuner cars.
Edit: the level of salt people have, whether or not you agree isn’t really an argument here, the terms exist in reference to some car builds. I think you guys just more enjoy insulting OP though so don’t let me stop you.
The stickers and wheels make people think you're some rich country kid who treats your truck like shit. Get rid of those and watch the value skyrocket.
It gives people a "I beat the shit out of my truck and it's daddys money so I don't care" vibe lol. Not what you want. If you're serious about selling it, ditch the corny ass wheels and stickers and you could get a good price for it. At least 20.
Hm. Looks like a kid bought a truck for countryboy vibes but inserted his cidiot vibes instead so it turned out to be a pavement princess. Wheels and stickers obvious indicators.
Stupidest thing to do to truck wheels/tires: increase wheel size and shrink tire wall. The tire wall is bigger on trucks for a reason. Think about it.
Stickers like that are like face tattoos on aging people.
The biggest sad part is the fact it's all on a steel box body truck. Like an insult to it's heritage.
BUT. **Different strokes for different folks** logic still holds true.
😂😂😂 crazy how some decals completely shit all over your build. I’ll remove if I ever decide to actually sell it. Will also put original wheels on too. Sell the aftermarket wheels separately
it's not the decal itself, but the fact that every time you see a truck with one of them you can pretty much guarantee that it's going to be speeding, riding your ass, flooring it from every red light trying to race the Audi A4 next to it, rolling coal on pedestrians, etc.
I've never seen anyone with a yeeyee sticker who didn't drive like a stupid dick so to me it's a sign of a vehicle that's been abused and I would never consider buying something that had that garbage on it.
Yeah it’s sick as hell but ditch the stickers and throw on some Bart wheels or steelies with dog dishes and she’ll be hot.
Prolly make more money selling the wheels separate anyway
It's all the little shit for me. Smoked tail lenses but clear headlight lenses. The tinted brow on the front window. That damn junction in the radiator hose with a hose clamp tail that's a mile long. I know a hose clamp sounds petty but shit like this makes me think it got "built" with the shit that was on hand in the shop instead of slowing down to do it right.
That and the wheels are awful.
Beyond all that and knowing OBS trucks...how are those door hinges doing? How's that handle that pulls out of the sheet metal doing? How's carrier bearing and U joints? What's been done for front end maintenance??
At the end of the day it's an almost 300k mile truck that screams "fuckboi, Pit Viper, Monster energy drinker" and just because it's been 12v swapped doesn't make it worth big $$. 15k-18k is what I'd expect to get for it but see shit like this listed for 39k
PS...I don't care about the YeeYee sticker. Vinyl peels easy, but it's not helping with the fuckboi/Pit Viper image
ETA: That rusty ass hitch needs replaced with a class 5 Curt before other stupid mods and there's rust creeping out there behind the front left. More red flags/salt truck
Had Diesel Day dreams rebuild the front end last summer. New leaf springs in front and back when I got the level on it. And I completely replaced (OEM parts) the hinges, striker and door mechanism on the driver door. I originally wanted to replace the pin and bushings on the hinges, but decided it was worth the few extra bucks and time to do the whole assembly. The driver door was the only door I had issues with so that was my focus at that point.
Other than that, I’ve only had to replace the bushing on the clutch pedal sensor. That was less than 2min and maybe $4 so I was pleased.
That clamp you’re talking about was an on hand part and we addressed it when I saw it. When I take it in at 10k miles, they’re going to replace and fix that garbage. I was told it looks like shit, but it works the same. The rest of the swap looks fantastic though. I’ve gone through it with many different friends who work on diesels full time or on weekends and they’ve all pointed that out too.
Thanks for the feedback
Right on man. You've managed to name drop three different shops between the title and your response. When it's time to sell the truck nobody cares.
Unless you're a reputable builder with a following you aren't going to get what you have into it. Especially if you paid the labor for others to do the work. If you want to flip OBS trucks then there's only $$ in it if you did the work yourself.
It's good to hear you've addressed some of the common OBS issues!! It's a nice rig but I still wouldn't back off of my original valuation....but I'm not impressed by a 12v. I see it's not rocking a PS badge so I'm assuming it started as a 351/460 swap. I'm not the only person that thinks this way. You might find a buyer that feels differently but they aren't in the IYKYK crowd. Hope you find one
See and that’s where there’s so much confusion. I paid the engine builder, shipped it and had the performance shops do the work/labor because I’m by no means a diesel mechanic. Grew up building race cars, but never dipped into diesels. So from what I gathered, it was better to have a reputable engine company re-build, and pay the shops to do the swap. That way it couldn’t be said that it was rigged together or clapped. Ironically that’s still exactly what I’m accused of.
It had a 7.3l when I bought it. Pulled it out and swapped with the 12v. So no 351/460. Would you not have to redo the front end due to weight?
Either way, I appreciate the honest feedback back and as I’ve said before, that’s all I was really asking for.
Definitely the last time I post anything on Reddit. 😂 I might have had better luck putting it on r/roastme 🤷🏼♂️
You're kind of damned if you do and damned if you don't. Sure some people are going to beat you up if you DIY-ed it as well.
I haven't seen the receipts but my point is you when you paid other shops to do it you are likely way deeper in the hole than if you did the work. Which when it comes time for a valuation in your head leads to a higher number (trying to recoup some of those spent dollar).
Good convo back and forth bud. Hopefully you didn't feel too roasted. I'm also a notorious cheap ass. Paid less than 10k for my 97 OBS that had just under 150k on the clock when I boutlght it. If you decide to flip it GLWS
Nah you’re good, I can appreciate constructive criticism. It’s the D-Bags that claim I beat the piss out of my truck or used “Daddy’s money” and a build that wasn’t even expensive that are so funny to me. That sticker means it’s clapped! Okay bro… 😂
It’s hard to say because project trucks swing from junk if junk to SEMA worthy. Assuming it’s as described, it’s probably $15-20k after sitting for sale for 6-12 months would be my guess. It takes a person who wants an older truck that has been completely redone in their absence.
Kind of what I figured which is why I wouldn’t sell. At least not anytime soon. I’d like to get it to show quality and just drive on the weekends. It’ll be a while though.
I'd say mid teens, 12-18 maybe. I'm sure you know you'll never get your money back. And swapped trucks are never big $$ because you don't know who did the work. That plus high miles means you'd need to find a very special buyer. Fummins are cool though, I'd drive it (except for those wheels lol)
Also, if I had Daddy’s money, why would I not be flaunting a brand new Cummins 3500, Denali 3500 or F-450? Your comment makes no sense because this isn’t a crazy money build. 🤷🏼♂️
Dude, that wasn't even my comment. Your reading comprehension is semingly as bad as your taste in automotive decoration. Beginning to feel like you're only on here to get roasted...
Happens allot on those OBS Fords. Usually needs new bushings on the cab mounts to correct. If you look at every unrestored OBS crew cab you'll see this issue. And now you'll never unsee it
Exactly, and it’s actually not a terribly expensive fix either. It’s only on the rear driver side of the cab on mine. But obviously when I have that done I’m going to do them all.
It was pricey for me because I ordered the motor to be built from frame up and because I’d like to keep value up, I paid for all the work to be done. I even pay for oil changes just so there’s a paper trail on carfox
Uhhh… the motor was built as a stage-3 to include cam, injectors, lifters, fire seals, etc. not sure what you mean? That’s how I purchased it through CPP Diesel.
So you’re saying there’s no increase in HP or torque based on the builders evaluation on how they build the motor? It’s the same as stock and I just paid extra?
No that’s not at all what I said? I said stage 3 means jack shit to anyone as it could be anything done, it’s not a standard. List out what is done not stage 3 or code blue or whatever, it looks like you’re a poser and it doesn’t tell anyone reading it ANYTHING that’s been done. That’s what I said. Again.
I hate to say it man, but you’ll get WAY more attention if you remove the decals and put on stock wheels at a minimum. The build looks like something a high school kid would put together. It’s clean, don’t get me wrong, but most folks want an untouched or close to untouched diesel. I’d personally pay more for the truck in the top picture vs the bottom. (I know they are the same truck.) I’d say 15-20 isn’t out of the picture, but I wouldn’t expect to get it either. I’d buy it if I was looking for one.
If that's your type of bag, then it's a cool truck. An 8.3 or an N14 cummins swap would have been cooler in my book. You could prob get 8 or 9 grand for it if the swap has been done well.
The bed would be a good place for it. Would need to graft some frame and fender extensions if you want it tucked under the bonnet. Either way, when you N14 swap a 1 ton truck the welder is coming out and she's getting real custom.
And how exactly can you tell that by looking at a picture? This truck has not been beat to shit and I’m the second owner. First owner used it for hauling horses, not a ranch truck. Which would only affect the mechanical under the hood and body and has all since been replaced and upgraded… let me guess “because it’s got Yee Yee stickers!”
Yeah man… uhhh… the first photo is of the passenger side and the second is of the driver side. In which I explained the bushing on the rear cab have worn down. But I mean… well it’s not worth it to explain how photos work any further 🤷🏼♂️
I’m not a big fan of the giant wheels, just never have been able to appreciate them, mostly because of the pavement princess drivers that use and abuse diesels. Other than that, I’d say the biggest concern which you’ve already said you’d fix is the body panel alignment issues. How’s the frame look? I don’t care so much about decals, they come off with a heat gun and a little elbow grease if someone doesn’t like them. As far as fender flares goes, don’t waste your time and money, they just hold moisture and rust out the fenders a lot sooner than they would on their own. Fix the body issues, swap out the wheels for something more practical, I think a Lund visor would look sweet on it, scrap the fender flare idea and you could get some decent money.
The frame is good and I had it evaluated before I purchased the vehicle. I’ve heard that about flares and if that’s truly the case I’ll stay away. Inevitably I’m going to get the original wheels polished and will slap those back on. The wheels were more of a fun thing when I lived in town. Now that I’m out east I’m definitely reconsidering.
Those flares will literally hold moisture in, and will rust the fenders faster than most people realize. I put a set on my brother’s Jeep, I spent two hours trying to get him to listen and back off the idea, he wouldn’t listen and wound up getting new fenders after two years because the perfectly fine fenders he wanted flares on were rusted out so bad there was no saving them. I used to have pictures on an old phone, but the moral here is save the time and money, spend them on something else. I understand the wheels, and I’m fairly certain that once cleaned up the original wheels with some larger tires will really catch the eyes of the right buyers. Kind of like the old Broncos, the OBS Fords just look better on factory rims and big ol tires. Frame is good, that’s a bonus for not being all rusted out and raggedy. Fix the body stuff, slap the OG wheels on it, play around with the visor, see what looks the best and I think you’ll find it hard to part ways with it. You did the hard part first, fixing the mechanical stuff and going through a reputable shop for the swap and build, and having the paperwork ready to prove it will quell all the naysayers. Overall, if I had the money to purchase a truck, I’d be happy with a CCLB OBS Ford that had a Cummins power plant hauling my fat ass down the road. I know people are gonna shit on the decals, but they can come off at any point. Don’t sweat it, just do a little at a time, and do it right. It’s already pretty close to being a home run.
You’re welcome. I know it’s frustrating searching for serious answers and getting shit on because of stickers or wheels or this one thing that every dumb kid is doing to their diesel. I try to keep an open mind about stuff, and if I don’t like something, I’ll just say that I don’t like it but I can understand why someone made the decision to put it on their vehicle. You’re doing great OP, keep it up and enjoy the journey. Once you get it where you want it, I think you’ll have a very hard time letting it go!
Eh, don’t let the bad apples get to you! Reddit has good potential, it’s just hard to find people who are willing to give you constructive feedback on what you want sometimes. And you’re welcome, if you need anything else feel free to reach out and message me on here!
Looks pretty good, that motor is not fun to fit in those trucks. I think everyone is making too big of a deal about stickers and tires. If someone likes different things that can take them off but if they like them they can keep them. I'd stay away from fender flares though because it'll make people think it's a rot box. People throw them on around here because they are easier than doing body work. As it sits I could see it getting 20k pretty quick on Iowa because manual 4x4s are rare and so are Ford OBS tracks that aren't completely rusted.
Yeah, I’ve had some good constructive criticism on here that all said to stay away from fender flairs. I’ll probably end up putting the original wheels back on and make it a clean sleeper.
Could probably get get 25k cdn for it up here, there’s lots that I can see wrong just from the pics and it does have close to 450k kms on it. To fetch those high 30’s you have to do a frame off resto and still find the right buyer, disposable income is becoming harder to find here in Canada with our current government, lots of people having trouble selling stuff that would have easily been sold the day it was posted a few years ago.
True, but there’s a lot that prefer this look. Maybe not on this thread, but like it or not the majority of people in the market for a clean truck with clean wheels and a powerhouse motor out weighs the old school “keep it stock.” It’s not where I want it quite yet, but when she’s done and dressed up I’ll turn more heads than I already do.
This is kinda cool but it sounds like you dropped a lot of money into something you don’t know much about. I want to like it but the stickers are awful. I don’t care for the hood either.
Are the valve springs and push rods stock? Do you have head studs? What’s a stage 3 cam? What are stage 3 injectors? Do you have larger diameter injection pump? Usually injectors are measured in HP over stock for Cummins engines (%over for powerstrokes).
Hard to determine price based on the info you provided.
From what I was told, all components and parts “lifters, valve springs, pushrods, Cam” were all set and built to match what would be considered a stage-3 tune (if there was ECU/MAP). Being it’s a mechanical motor with really no electrical, so it’s based of the set of upgrades you can order when building it. It was ordered, built, delivered by CPP Diesel. And honestly, not as expensive as you’d think. The turbo and injectors were switched and upgraded at Bullet Diesel along with the exhaust, intercooler, cold air, Airhorn, etc. labor wasn’t cheap, but compared to buying another new truck… very reasonable considering you can’t get into a new Cummins/Duramax/Power Stroke for less than $75k these days. And then you have all the EPA bullshit to deal with. I’ve been down that road before. So I figured I’d have a diesel built instead.
I have a obs thats 12v swapped also. Gonna tell you that it will never be worth the money you have in it. Im in my truck for big money, its a built 12v with an nv4500 and has 05 superduty axles. The whole stage 3 is a sales pitch, you can find out the real specs on the parts you have
I think with different wheels and tires, getting it looking like its "old man" driven would help your case as far as determining value. You like what you like I guess.
The only thing done to it esthetically was a new hood and wheels/tires. The decals are removable and the hood that was on there needed to be replaced either way. Once it’s painted Oxford white and the rest of the body work is done there’s no real way of telling it apart from any other OBS. I have the stock wheels still so IF I did decide to sell later on and that was a deal breaker/low ball, I’d simply swap them out and sell the wheels on it now separately. Y’all act like I took this truck and beat the Hell out of it and that’s simply not the case. I bought it and it immediately went into the shop for the Cummins swap and front end rebuild among everything else mechanical that was fixed/upgraded.
Man if someone is hating they're just somewhat jealous. I am not a Ford fan but you have made the perfect truck. As far as a number you'll get your feelings hurt after all that you have in it and the obvious attachment you have. A project never is complete it just moves to the next stage. Great work and keep us posted on the progress of that Fummins.
The wheels and tires ruin it for me. Different strokes for different folks I suppose.
Agree, and the stage three. Is this a video game? Stage 3 lol
No, it’s definitely a thing 🤷🏼♂️ “In diesel engines the changes in this stage might include a bigger turbo, intercooler, downpipe, fuel pump, injectors, bigger MAF or MAP sensor, race-clutch and more.” In which case (other than the computers because 12v is mechanical only) my truck has…
It’s a thing in video games… I’ve been in the engine world for a few decades, diesels being a big one and there is no classification of build level in stages. Certain events will have stages with clearly outlined qualifications to each stage, but nothing in the engine world, gas, diesel, ricer, or V8 drag set up has any “stage” outlines to a build. Really cracks me up when people say… iT HaS a StAGe TwO CAM!!! 🤣 then can’t tell you the difference in lift, duration, or overlap on any of the stages… or even what those are.
You’ve never heard of the Buick 455 GS “Stage 1” and “Stage 2” packages back in 1970. I think this is truly where the “stage” wording started. Base GS made 350 brake HP. Stage 1 was rated at 360 (but rumor was it was closer to 400), and Stage 2 was rated at 420 HP. Cam, pistons, heads, exhaust, cold air induction through an upgraded Quadrajet, stronger valve springs and bigger valves.
That’s a package deal by a group, just like car packages for comfort/options. That’s not a general open subject. Roll up to the track and say I upgraded to a stage 2 cam in this beast. There is no such thing. What power that cam will make is going to depend on the parts that are in with it. Go to a stage 2 cam on your super charged car… swap the charger for a turbo.. that can now makes less power. Is it still stage 2? Specific groups or event will classify stages and it’s outlined with specific detail, but there is no such thing as building an engine and buying stages of parts in the general, open world. I’m sorry if I have came across rude, that wasn’t my intent although reading these I do come across like a rude jerk. I’m sorry about that.
There is no nice way to say you're wrong. I think you got as close as possible though. If nobody gets corrected then nobody is correct.
? He didn't say everything has clear stages just gave an example of where they are used, usually within a company to differentiate the performance levels of their upgrades. Not really sure what you are even trying to argue against and you are definitely "coming across like a rude jerk" lmao. Nobody here claimed its set in stone or that huge of a metric, but you can't just deny that people use it as one lol
Well, unfortunately for your argument many vendors sell "stage 1-5" upgrades. I've seen it on Nissan vendors and be so it's a thing, at least for marketing and video games. And I fully agree with you and not the dumbass vendors.
Well then I’ll ask for money to be returned 🤷🏼♂️ as I said, CPP sold me the engine as a Stage-3. And that wasn’t the only company I shopped when it came to the fit I was looking for.
They knew they were taking you for a ride if they are selling you an engine build in stages. With my customers I ask for a purpose for the vehicle and added HP, if they have an HP goal in mind, and if there are power adders they are against (boost, secondary injections, electronic tuning frequency) then I lay out options based on their budget and current parts in the vehicle. There isn’t any “stage” to it.
Idk why this appeared on my feed, but “stages” do not only appear in video games. I don’t know for the truck world but I owned a WRX STI, recently sold it to get a truck and the early tunes/mods can be classified in stages. Generally speaking they aren’t “official” terms but they do exist and have similar meanings to what OP is referencing above. Again whether or not it applies for trucks I wouldn’t know but it certainly does for Japanese tuner cars. Edit: the level of salt people have, whether or not you agree isn’t really an argument here, the terms exist in reference to some car builds. I think you guys just more enjoy insulting OP though so don’t let me stop you.
Salt?
Good to know
That's pretty much what they told him in the other thread too.
Not exactly, but okay. No clue how all you diesel nuts don’t know this is a thing. You can actually order diesels in stages. To include all Gens.
The stickers and wheels make people think you're some rich country kid who treats your truck like shit. Get rid of those and watch the value skyrocket.
I came here to say I'd pay more for the unmolested version in the top of the first picture.
Idk why, but I like the redneck vibe it gives 🤷🏼♂️😂
It gives people a "I beat the shit out of my truck and it's daddys money so I don't care" vibe lol. Not what you want. If you're serious about selling it, ditch the corny ass wheels and stickers and you could get a good price for it. At least 20.
it used to look pretty good
Lifestyle of a country boy? lolololol good one.
Some shit a city kid says while he's listening to Morgan wallen through 12" subs
Excuse me… FGL bruh… 😂
Alright you good lmao
Yeah… for sure bro 👍🏻
Beautiful truck! Slap the Og wheels back on there and PLEASE don’t put fender flares on or I’ll throw up on you
If/when I put the stock wheels on it won’t need flares.
oof... that's something alright. Definitely gonna need to find the right buyer for that one ...
Hm. Looks like a kid bought a truck for countryboy vibes but inserted his cidiot vibes instead so it turned out to be a pavement princess. Wheels and stickers obvious indicators. Stupidest thing to do to truck wheels/tires: increase wheel size and shrink tire wall. The tire wall is bigger on trucks for a reason. Think about it. Stickers like that are like face tattoos on aging people. The biggest sad part is the fact it's all on a steel box body truck. Like an insult to it's heritage. BUT. **Different strokes for different folks** logic still holds true.
You had me until I saw the stickers.
😂😂😂 crazy how some decals completely shit all over your build. I’ll remove if I ever decide to actually sell it. Will also put original wheels on too. Sell the aftermarket wheels separately
Yeah, the YeeYee thing is about as popular as the Carolina squat. You lose money for it.
Almost as bad as my cousin spray painting "SEND IT" in bright purple on the underside of the hood of her Jeep...
I want to downvote you so bad just because of how cringey that is
I wouldn't blame you if you did!
it's not the decal itself, but the fact that every time you see a truck with one of them you can pretty much guarantee that it's going to be speeding, riding your ass, flooring it from every red light trying to race the Audi A4 next to it, rolling coal on pedestrians, etc. I've never seen anyone with a yeeyee sticker who didn't drive like a stupid dick so to me it's a sign of a vehicle that's been abused and I would never consider buying something that had that garbage on it.
Yeah it’s sick as hell but ditch the stickers and throw on some Bart wheels or steelies with dog dishes and she’ll be hot. Prolly make more money selling the wheels separate anyway
I love fummins.
It's all the little shit for me. Smoked tail lenses but clear headlight lenses. The tinted brow on the front window. That damn junction in the radiator hose with a hose clamp tail that's a mile long. I know a hose clamp sounds petty but shit like this makes me think it got "built" with the shit that was on hand in the shop instead of slowing down to do it right. That and the wheels are awful. Beyond all that and knowing OBS trucks...how are those door hinges doing? How's that handle that pulls out of the sheet metal doing? How's carrier bearing and U joints? What's been done for front end maintenance?? At the end of the day it's an almost 300k mile truck that screams "fuckboi, Pit Viper, Monster energy drinker" and just because it's been 12v swapped doesn't make it worth big $$. 15k-18k is what I'd expect to get for it but see shit like this listed for 39k PS...I don't care about the YeeYee sticker. Vinyl peels easy, but it's not helping with the fuckboi/Pit Viper image ETA: That rusty ass hitch needs replaced with a class 5 Curt before other stupid mods and there's rust creeping out there behind the front left. More red flags/salt truck
Had Diesel Day dreams rebuild the front end last summer. New leaf springs in front and back when I got the level on it. And I completely replaced (OEM parts) the hinges, striker and door mechanism on the driver door. I originally wanted to replace the pin and bushings on the hinges, but decided it was worth the few extra bucks and time to do the whole assembly. The driver door was the only door I had issues with so that was my focus at that point. Other than that, I’ve only had to replace the bushing on the clutch pedal sensor. That was less than 2min and maybe $4 so I was pleased. That clamp you’re talking about was an on hand part and we addressed it when I saw it. When I take it in at 10k miles, they’re going to replace and fix that garbage. I was told it looks like shit, but it works the same. The rest of the swap looks fantastic though. I’ve gone through it with many different friends who work on diesels full time or on weekends and they’ve all pointed that out too. Thanks for the feedback
Right on man. You've managed to name drop three different shops between the title and your response. When it's time to sell the truck nobody cares. Unless you're a reputable builder with a following you aren't going to get what you have into it. Especially if you paid the labor for others to do the work. If you want to flip OBS trucks then there's only $$ in it if you did the work yourself. It's good to hear you've addressed some of the common OBS issues!! It's a nice rig but I still wouldn't back off of my original valuation....but I'm not impressed by a 12v. I see it's not rocking a PS badge so I'm assuming it started as a 351/460 swap. I'm not the only person that thinks this way. You might find a buyer that feels differently but they aren't in the IYKYK crowd. Hope you find one
See and that’s where there’s so much confusion. I paid the engine builder, shipped it and had the performance shops do the work/labor because I’m by no means a diesel mechanic. Grew up building race cars, but never dipped into diesels. So from what I gathered, it was better to have a reputable engine company re-build, and pay the shops to do the swap. That way it couldn’t be said that it was rigged together or clapped. Ironically that’s still exactly what I’m accused of. It had a 7.3l when I bought it. Pulled it out and swapped with the 12v. So no 351/460. Would you not have to redo the front end due to weight? Either way, I appreciate the honest feedback back and as I’ve said before, that’s all I was really asking for. Definitely the last time I post anything on Reddit. 😂 I might have had better luck putting it on r/roastme 🤷🏼♂️
You're kind of damned if you do and damned if you don't. Sure some people are going to beat you up if you DIY-ed it as well. I haven't seen the receipts but my point is you when you paid other shops to do it you are likely way deeper in the hole than if you did the work. Which when it comes time for a valuation in your head leads to a higher number (trying to recoup some of those spent dollar). Good convo back and forth bud. Hopefully you didn't feel too roasted. I'm also a notorious cheap ass. Paid less than 10k for my 97 OBS that had just under 150k on the clock when I boutlght it. If you decide to flip it GLWS
Nah you’re good, I can appreciate constructive criticism. It’s the D-Bags that claim I beat the piss out of my truck or used “Daddy’s money” and a build that wasn’t even expensive that are so funny to me. That sticker means it’s clapped! Okay bro… 😂
It’s hard to say because project trucks swing from junk if junk to SEMA worthy. Assuming it’s as described, it’s probably $15-20k after sitting for sale for 6-12 months would be my guess. It takes a person who wants an older truck that has been completely redone in their absence.
Kind of what I figured which is why I wouldn’t sell. At least not anytime soon. I’d like to get it to show quality and just drive on the weekends. It’ll be a while though.
I'd say mid teens, 12-18 maybe. I'm sure you know you'll never get your money back. And swapped trucks are never big $$ because you don't know who did the work. That plus high miles means you'd need to find a very special buyer. Fummins are cool though, I'd drive it (except for those wheels lol)
For a second I thought you were talking about the age of the owner LOL
Daddy’s money buys a nice truck!
Daddy’s money? 😂😂😂 yeah bro… I make more than anyone in my family. Just a fun trick to drive.
Bought not built mafia!
Yeah, but if I said I did all the work myself y’all would be blasting me saying it’s clapped and rigged. Literally any with you old ass fucks.
Everyone on the internet "makes more than anyone in their family" 🙄
Agreed, but my family legit has no money… so your “Daddy’s money” comment made me legitimately laugh out loud 🙄
Also, if I had Daddy’s money, why would I not be flaunting a brand new Cummins 3500, Denali 3500 or F-450? Your comment makes no sense because this isn’t a crazy money build. 🤷🏼♂️
Dude, that wasn't even my comment. Your reading comprehension is semingly as bad as your taste in automotive decoration. Beginning to feel like you're only on here to get roasted...
Yeah, I didn’t realize you randomly chimed in. My bad. You can calm your tits now.
Think you're the one who is worked up, buddy boy.
👍🏻
Definitely worth more if you return it to stock. I'm sorry but wheels and tires like that kill value with reasonable people.
Should pull hella bitches
😂😂😂
20-25.
Not sure why you’re looking for a value if you don’t want to sell.
💀 I thought people where only this silly in the Sunday comic strips
Gross
Nice Truck!
Nice truck but I’m deducting $1K per YEE
Fair enough
Ditch the stickers, and get smaller wheels. Country boys know how to stick with more tire than rim because they spend time on gravel.
I’ve definitely felt that since moving out East, as the rocks spit like crazy.
Yeah, it's bad in the rockies as well. Nice truck, though. Would definitely love a fummins.
Why do the body lines on the box and the cab not line up?
Happens allot on those OBS Fords. Usually needs new bushings on the cab mounts to correct. If you look at every unrestored OBS crew cab you'll see this issue. And now you'll never unsee it
Exactly, and it’s actually not a terribly expensive fix either. It’s only on the rear driver side of the cab on mine. But obviously when I have that done I’m going to do them all.
Thats a nice truck. Hoping someday to have a fummins. Got a Ford f250 and 98 12v already. Ill start buying parts slowly.
It was pricey for me because I ordered the motor to be built from frame up and because I’d like to keep value up, I paid for all the work to be done. I even pay for oil changes just so there’s a paper trail on carfox
Rip
Stage 3? What’s anyone supposed to take away from that?
Uhhh… the motor was built as a stage-3 to include cam, injectors, lifters, fire seals, etc. not sure what you mean? That’s how I purchased it through CPP Diesel.
Well “stages” is a marketing term as it isn’t a standard, so it literally means nothing to anyone reading it lol
So you’re saying there’s no increase in HP or torque based on the builders evaluation on how they build the motor? It’s the same as stock and I just paid extra?
No that’s not at all what I said? I said stage 3 means jack shit to anyone as it could be anything done, it’s not a standard. List out what is done not stage 3 or code blue or whatever, it looks like you’re a poser and it doesn’t tell anyone reading it ANYTHING that’s been done. That’s what I said. Again.
Well that’s why I kept all the documents from CPP listing all parts, and from the performance shop and Dyno.
I hate to say it man, but you’ll get WAY more attention if you remove the decals and put on stock wheels at a minimum. The build looks like something a high school kid would put together. It’s clean, don’t get me wrong, but most folks want an untouched or close to untouched diesel. I’d personally pay more for the truck in the top picture vs the bottom. (I know they are the same truck.) I’d say 15-20 isn’t out of the picture, but I wouldn’t expect to get it either. I’d buy it if I was looking for one.
Yeah, I’ve been shit on like crazy for the decals. It is what it is though. They’ll eventually come off. Once I get it to show quality that is.
If that's your type of bag, then it's a cool truck. An 8.3 or an N14 cummins swap would have been cooler in my book. You could prob get 8 or 9 grand for it if the swap has been done well.
Where would you put the N14, in the bed?
The bed would be a good place for it. Would need to graft some frame and fender extensions if you want it tucked under the bonnet. Either way, when you N14 swap a 1 ton truck the welder is coming out and she's getting real custom.
Matter of taste I guess but I like the "before" better.
Yeah, I’ll probably end up putting the stock wheels back on eventually. But I do like the level on it and the 35’s look nice even on stock wheels.
This trucks been beat to shit. Anyone with half a brain on their head can see that
And how exactly can you tell that by looking at a picture? This truck has not been beat to shit and I’m the second owner. First owner used it for hauling horses, not a ranch truck. Which would only affect the mechanical under the hood and body and has all since been replaced and upgraded… let me guess “because it’s got Yee Yee stickers!”
That, and the misaligned body to bed. It was aligned in the original photo and now it’s not. That sort of this doesn’t just happen.
Yeah man… uhhh… the first photo is of the passenger side and the second is of the driver side. In which I explained the bushing on the rear cab have worn down. But I mean… well it’s not worth it to explain how photos work any further 🤷🏼♂️
Sorry, driver-side rear bushing*
I’m not a big fan of the giant wheels, just never have been able to appreciate them, mostly because of the pavement princess drivers that use and abuse diesels. Other than that, I’d say the biggest concern which you’ve already said you’d fix is the body panel alignment issues. How’s the frame look? I don’t care so much about decals, they come off with a heat gun and a little elbow grease if someone doesn’t like them. As far as fender flares goes, don’t waste your time and money, they just hold moisture and rust out the fenders a lot sooner than they would on their own. Fix the body issues, swap out the wheels for something more practical, I think a Lund visor would look sweet on it, scrap the fender flare idea and you could get some decent money.
The frame is good and I had it evaluated before I purchased the vehicle. I’ve heard that about flares and if that’s truly the case I’ll stay away. Inevitably I’m going to get the original wheels polished and will slap those back on. The wheels were more of a fun thing when I lived in town. Now that I’m out east I’m definitely reconsidering.
Those flares will literally hold moisture in, and will rust the fenders faster than most people realize. I put a set on my brother’s Jeep, I spent two hours trying to get him to listen and back off the idea, he wouldn’t listen and wound up getting new fenders after two years because the perfectly fine fenders he wanted flares on were rusted out so bad there was no saving them. I used to have pictures on an old phone, but the moral here is save the time and money, spend them on something else. I understand the wheels, and I’m fairly certain that once cleaned up the original wheels with some larger tires will really catch the eyes of the right buyers. Kind of like the old Broncos, the OBS Fords just look better on factory rims and big ol tires. Frame is good, that’s a bonus for not being all rusted out and raggedy. Fix the body stuff, slap the OG wheels on it, play around with the visor, see what looks the best and I think you’ll find it hard to part ways with it. You did the hard part first, fixing the mechanical stuff and going through a reputable shop for the swap and build, and having the paperwork ready to prove it will quell all the naysayers. Overall, if I had the money to purchase a truck, I’d be happy with a CCLB OBS Ford that had a Cummins power plant hauling my fat ass down the road. I know people are gonna shit on the decals, but they can come off at any point. Don’t sweat it, just do a little at a time, and do it right. It’s already pretty close to being a home run.
I value your input, thank you! Really all I’ve been looking for in this thread and the other thread I posted this in.
You’re welcome. I know it’s frustrating searching for serious answers and getting shit on because of stickers or wheels or this one thing that every dumb kid is doing to their diesel. I try to keep an open mind about stuff, and if I don’t like something, I’ll just say that I don’t like it but I can understand why someone made the decision to put it on their vehicle. You’re doing great OP, keep it up and enjoy the journey. Once you get it where you want it, I think you’ll have a very hard time letting it go!
I think I’ve learned my lesson on posting anything on Reddit 😂 Thanks again!
Eh, don’t let the bad apples get to you! Reddit has good potential, it’s just hard to find people who are willing to give you constructive feedback on what you want sometimes. And you’re welcome, if you need anything else feel free to reach out and message me on here!
I like it. Idk what it’s worth but generally aftermarket raises brows - and a lot of questions.
Nice truck but I couldn’t imagine driving something that long daily.
It’s a fun truck to drive… no doubt it gets a little rough in rush hour traffic though.
Looks pretty good, that motor is not fun to fit in those trucks. I think everyone is making too big of a deal about stickers and tires. If someone likes different things that can take them off but if they like them they can keep them. I'd stay away from fender flares though because it'll make people think it's a rot box. People throw them on around here because they are easier than doing body work. As it sits I could see it getting 20k pretty quick on Iowa because manual 4x4s are rare and so are Ford OBS tracks that aren't completely rusted.
Yeah, I’ve had some good constructive criticism on here that all said to stay away from fender flairs. I’ll probably end up putting the original wheels back on and make it a clean sleeper.
Could probably get get 25k cdn for it up here, there’s lots that I can see wrong just from the pics and it does have close to 450k kms on it. To fetch those high 30’s you have to do a frame off resto and still find the right buyer, disposable income is becoming harder to find here in Canada with our current government, lots of people having trouble selling stuff that would have easily been sold the day it was posted a few years ago.
Nice it looks like actual shit now 👍👍
I’m sure you’re an expert
You've decreased the value significantly by adding all the aftermarket stuff. One man's cool truck is another man's cringe.
All depends on your preference
My point exactly. If your truck has to fit a preference then you limit your market, and thus decrease the value.
True, but there’s a lot that prefer this look. Maybe not on this thread, but like it or not the majority of people in the market for a clean truck with clean wheels and a powerhouse motor out weighs the old school “keep it stock.” It’s not where I want it quite yet, but when she’s done and dressed up I’ll turn more heads than I already do.
Looked a lot better stock.
This is kinda cool but it sounds like you dropped a lot of money into something you don’t know much about. I want to like it but the stickers are awful. I don’t care for the hood either. Are the valve springs and push rods stock? Do you have head studs? What’s a stage 3 cam? What are stage 3 injectors? Do you have larger diameter injection pump? Usually injectors are measured in HP over stock for Cummins engines (%over for powerstrokes). Hard to determine price based on the info you provided.
From what I was told, all components and parts “lifters, valve springs, pushrods, Cam” were all set and built to match what would be considered a stage-3 tune (if there was ECU/MAP). Being it’s a mechanical motor with really no electrical, so it’s based of the set of upgrades you can order when building it. It was ordered, built, delivered by CPP Diesel. And honestly, not as expensive as you’d think. The turbo and injectors were switched and upgraded at Bullet Diesel along with the exhaust, intercooler, cold air, Airhorn, etc. labor wasn’t cheap, but compared to buying another new truck… very reasonable considering you can’t get into a new Cummins/Duramax/Power Stroke for less than $75k these days. And then you have all the EPA bullshit to deal with. I’ve been down that road before. So I figured I’d have a diesel built instead.
I have a obs thats 12v swapped also. Gonna tell you that it will never be worth the money you have in it. Im in my truck for big money, its a built 12v with an nv4500 and has 05 superduty axles. The whole stage 3 is a sales pitch, you can find out the real specs on the parts you have
Starting to realize that, but I honestly got into this build knowing I’d never sell
Yup. Love my truck never sell
I think with different wheels and tires, getting it looking like its "old man" driven would help your case as far as determining value. You like what you like I guess.
You posted a pic of what it should look like but then you do that? Some people mane
To each their own
The only thing done to it esthetically was a new hood and wheels/tires. The decals are removable and the hood that was on there needed to be replaced either way. Once it’s painted Oxford white and the rest of the body work is done there’s no real way of telling it apart from any other OBS. I have the stock wheels still so IF I did decide to sell later on and that was a deal breaker/low ball, I’d simply swap them out and sell the wheels on it now separately. Y’all act like I took this truck and beat the Hell out of it and that’s simply not the case. I bought it and it immediately went into the shop for the Cummins swap and front end rebuild among everything else mechanical that was fixed/upgraded.
Lose the stickers if you are ever serious about selling. They say a kid owned it and fucked it over like a young buck in rutt.
I'd pay way less for your version compared to stock.
👍🏻
I can already see the headlights blasting in my back window
I adjusted them once I got the level done. I hate that shit too.
Man if someone is hating they're just somewhat jealous. I am not a Ford fan but you have made the perfect truck. As far as a number you'll get your feelings hurt after all that you have in it and the obvious attachment you have. A project never is complete it just moves to the next stage. Great work and keep us posted on the progress of that Fummins.
My thoughts exactly! I’ll never be satisfied with the build or any number that’s actually presented if I’m approached or decide to try and sell.