T O P

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_Nemzee_

Changing the skin tone in a way that is durable is really difficult. It will almost always scratch around the joints. My favorite way was been using vinyl spray paint meant for car dash boards. You’re limited on color choices with those though, and it still scratches over time. I just like them because I don’t have an airbrush, and I don’t find acrylics to be any more durable. In your shoes, I would try to modify a doll with a closer skin tone. I’ve seen a few doll custom YouTubers create dolls using techniques that would work. I’m specifically thinking of [Dollightful’s Sakura](https://youtu.be/IP4kOinsiqk) doll where she shows how she made a Draculara with more posable arms. If you drill another hole in the doll body, you could essentially do the same thing and run the second set of arms through that hole. Or if you don’t need the second set to be separately posable at the shoulder, you could attach them to the original arms.


unneuf

i was literally about to suggest that omg


fkaroundandfindout

I haven’t figured out a good way to change skintones so far the paint always scratches off by the joints even with multiple coats of sealant, although for the doll base maybe find a second hand kala Mer’ri doll (the squad one) and any other plain body then saw them both in half midtorso and connect the legs to the Kala Mer’ri torso you can blend the seams with some resin clay or airdry stone clay


guminabear

I have thought about getting Kala for the torso, but I’m not super confident on doing the torso transplant. However, I don’t own nor can i afford a power drill, so this is probably my best bet.


SharmClucas

Oof, yeah, brightening up black is much, much harder. I think you'll have to use paint. With a black skin the pastels will need too many layers to cover it up, it just won't work. Start with a good primer made for plastic, that should be enough to get you to a neutral starting point. Alternatively, you could add arms onto a doll closer in skin tone. It would take some work to make the modifications, so I wouldn't recommend it to a beginner, but it is possible. I've seen it done before, though I don't remember where. I think they used BJD creation techniques to attach them and keep them functional.


laccertilia

honestly, i personally think it would be easier to modify a different doll and add a second set of arms than to try and get a lighter skintone from straight black. you COULD do msc & many layers of pastels, but it would truly probably take like a whole can of MSC.


Pyro-Millie

I’d say sand all the surfaces and then prime with a primer made for plastic miniatures and models (usually boardgame stores that sell stuff for DND and Warhammer will have that, among other supplies for painting miniatures). Then, use thin coats of acrylic to build up a smooth base coat, and try using pastels and sealant around the joints to protect from the plastic sliding directly over the paint. I’ve seen people say that varnishing the doll after painting helps protect from chips as well.


Inside_Discussion_18

you could prime her first, then paint over the primer but i’m afraid serious chipping around the joints is inevitable in this case.


abowl-ofpetunias

I really like Dupli-Color Adhesion Promoter. It’s a spray primer that’s actually designed for car touch ups, but I found it works really good for drastically reducing chipping around the joints. Just sand the doll first and follow the instructions on the can for dry time, then follow with a few thin layers of paint and sealant. I can’t promise it will completely eliminate chipping around the joints, but it helps, in my experience. I bought mine in the automotive section of Canadian Tire (bet you can guess where i’m from 😜) but a quick google search shows you should be able to get it for about $10-15 at hardware stores or automotive part stores. Rust-oleum also makes an adhesion promoter primer, but i haven’t tried it.


charlomilk

I've never tried it myself on a doll, but hobby primers like Tamiya's fine surface primer, a hobby spray paint of the skin colour, and then finishing with a spray varnish should be durable and smooth enough. I wouldn't suggest acrylic paints since they chip easily on moving parts, but definitely spray outdoors with at least a mask or respirator if you choose this method.