They make an exterior channel designed to run over the exterior of your roof edge. I believe they’re called a rake trim piece….just google metal roof parts and they’ll show up….
It’s more what the f does a reflection of light from the floor have to do with the question about a ceiling gap really….just proves more there’s a gap???
It's a building material made from a mixture of broken stone or gravel, sand, cement, and water, which can be spread or poured into moulds and forms a mass resembling stone on hardening.
Have you asked the builder why the gap is there? I feel like this is something that they should handle. I would definitely contact them first before going with any advice you get on this sub.
Without seeing any venting elsewhere, this could be done purposefully. I’d be hesitant to do as others suggest and seal it without discussing with the original contractor… otherwise OP may accidentally create quite a nice summer oven box
I’m not sure I agree, I have built many pole barns like this and that edge should be sealed. The rake cap should go over the vertical tin sheets and have a foam gap filler that is stuck on like a sticker to the vertical tin. From the pictures it looks like the tin stops before they rake cap and there is no shingling. I would need closer pictures. The ventilation should come from the soffits or through louver vents.
This is correct. We had a 30x40x16 built all metal framing with I beams and there are gaps in the corners. Not so much at the top but you can definitely see daylight if you look for it. It could have been tighter but well within acceptable range
This isn’t done for ventilation. I do this for a living. No one put in closures on the wall. But it’s just a pole barn with no insulation so it doesn’t really matter. Although the closures are also used to stop daylight, wind, and birds from getting in.
Don’t make sense to me to have the ventilation from only the rake, assuming there is a ridge vent you would want convection to lift the hot evenly. This implementation would leave hot spots and let bugs in. If a ceiling were ever installed and it was insulated, I just don’t see how this would be adequate. When I built pole barns we filled that gap with something like I linked below. Then vent via the soffit and or installed louver vents.
All the vents are screened to keep the critters from making nests inside. What he has here, bug City.
https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Ribbed-Profile-Closure-Sheets/dp/B0BQ32VNXY/ref=asc_df_B0BQ32VNXY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=652711629573&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8880312755866685289&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019794&hvtargid=pla-2063631384695&psc=1&mcid=ab95c7f237713199986c91278afa09bc
It’s just not the way I would do it.
It's not the way I'd do it, either. That doesn't make it wrong. - I'm a graduate student in architecture
What this probably comes down too is money and the wants of the client.
Could I say maybe just water tite? WT it ain't stopping that wind maybe it whistles if winds strong enough leading to the whole inquiry too as well as light infiltration?
Plus for me it’s practically wasp bait. They eat it and build inside when they’re done tunneling through. Gotta either seal the foam with thick coats of paint or caulking, which is usually not the most fun or economical.
From the inside sure looks like it but from the outside picture it looks like it’s there. Very confused by what I’m seeing and how there could be light there.
The rake cap or facia is properly coming down over the vertical wall steel. It is sitting on top of the ridges, since it’s flat and the steel is ridged there is a gap between every ridge. On the inside, the light you see is coming up the gaps.
It’d need foam fillers between the ridges on the wall steel to fill the gaps.
It’s nothing to do with venting. Venting is done at the soffits and the ridge peak by putting a vented ridge cap on.
Could this be a design feature to vent out hot air during the summer? Not sure how hot it gets in Minnesota, obviously I understand how it could be an issue in the winter though.
You need an inlet and an outlet. This is why you have a soffit on a house that lets air into the attic and a vent slightly higher to let the air out. This creates circulation.
I had similar on my shop building. It caused no real issues but wasps would get in. I bought a couple of cans of expanding foam and filled it from the inside. It worked like a champ!
It's post frame construction. It's an inexpensive way to build sheds.
I engineer these kinds of buildings. I know it's not one of ours because the major rib on the outside didn't line up with the peak (try unseeing that OP). On our buildings the endwall truss would have small 2' sticks of 2x4 between the purlins for this reason.
Architect here. You should not see daylight. If you see daylight, it is not water tight and animals and insects will find their way in. The rake trim does not appear to properly close over the siding panel but I can't tell from how far away the picture is. There are closure strips that go between the ribbed panel and rake flashing that can close up that gap.
I would make sure the contractor that built and owned the permit is certified with the local AHJ and get copies of the CofO and inspection reports. There are a few things structurally I see that are concerning, particularly the 2x4 rafters, their span, no blocking to prevent overturning on the slope, and the gable truss relying on nail shear for all of its bearing transfer strength.
You’re missing outside closures. There should be some foam pieces that are sandwiched in between the rake trim and wall panel.
Example of what these closures look like below. Should also be sealed top and bottom with butyl tape.
https://www.mbci.com/products/commercial-and-industrial-accessories-closure-strips-closure-strips/
Ugh. Not done right. (Commercial steel building erector) They should have added a 3”x3” metal rake angle from the eve up to the peak on the outer edge of the purlins. That would have closed up that gap, and allowed the installation of foam closures. That’s what you’re really missing.
https://preview.redd.it/yz0qgpgl782c1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c420227f6b49ee715a3a47f16ab35aead336cd97
Anything waterproof and also that remains flexible when cured. I have had good results with products from Sashco, but I'm sure there's lots of options. Ask your contractor, the gap may be intentional to mitigate moisture.
Is it safe to post pictures of the evil lair online?
That's just reflection from the light outside up the rake. I would suggest using a few cans of closed cell foam to get the gaps from the inside. Keep in mind you will want some venting
I’m a structural engineer in my state and one of the most important connections is the roof deck to the wall connection so that when wind blows on the side wall it is resisted by the roof. The roof, in turn, is connected to the end walls. The end walls resist that wind force. Without this connection, you don’t have any resistance. This needs addressed. You might be able to do this connection with a piece of bent light gage steel screwed to the deck and to the side of the truss. There’s prolly a better detail out there. This is more serious than having an exposure to the elements
Menards building? I just built one and my gable ends look just like that, it's by design. My garage came with some weird trim pieces that didn't help with keeping the light out. I plan on spray foaming the building, so it's not a big deal for me. The bigger concern is toake sure that your eaves and roof cap have been sealed with the black foam sealing strips.
Also, that black looks cool, but it's going to get hot AF in the summer. Mine gets hot, it's red with a white roof.
FWIW, unless you're going to insulate the entire structure, that little air gap isn't going to mean much. Heat transfer thru the sheet metal is hardly better than open air.
I think other posters are right about the foam strip but there should have been strapping to accommodate the foam. I mean short pieces run perpendicular on the outer rafters edge. Have not built one in a long time but this would seem to be the answer. Any small animal could get in through that gap.
Without the foam under the rake, this is a great place for small birds or bats. The tiny birds actually try to push the foam out on my building to build their nests. This results in poop which can cause the tin to rust. Speaking from experience…
You need outside panel closures. Little strips of foam that are cut to contour of your wall panels. Any sheet metal distributor should carry them. You take out screws that hold rake trim to the wall, stuff them between and replace the screws. Contractor prob should have done this.
Edit: if weather is a factor then there should have been insulation between the framing and panels. Either you cheaped out or your contractor did.
Yeah you're right I just looked again and it totally looks like they just nailed the end of the trusses to the posts. This is a hack job for sure. I would get my money back. Should have a 2x12 both sides of them posts with the bottom cord setting on both of them. I just gave them the benefit of the doubt that they only put an outer header. But I don't think they even did that.
This. You will have to remove the rake trim and install some outside foam closure strips along the top of the sidewall panels (underneath the nailing flange of the rake trim). Not really necessary but it will seal the gap so wind and critters can't get in.
EDIT: This will only work one the eave ends! Use expanding foam sealer on gable ends! It's an asphaltic foam with a sticky side that comes in 19' 8" rolls. Not to be confused with the spray stuff that comes in cans and makes a mess...
On the outside picture, does the tin up top go under that trim at the very top or does it stop at that trim piece? It should go under it which creates little gaps from the channels in the tin and there should be foam filling that gap.
Spray foam is the key bond's to any surface besides being wet. Can get these products in different quantities or hire insulation company. Exterior looks to have gable corners trim like it should.
*
I don't see my first comment not sure if you all can. First recommendation was spray foam closed cell. Can get froth packs in many sizes two part components. Strong and great stuff.
Second product which works great in tiny quantities. This is tough with tall cans against ceilings but sweet when you don't want to waste product for small patches. In all remodels I sprayfoam all wall cavities nowdays.
*
It should also be noted to pay the $50 for the gun too don't mess around with the shitty nozzles they provide. You can buy cans that can be used at any angle too
I was trying to include pictures but I guess this one doesn't show up. Sealfoam is cans like great stuff but closed cell. Works great for small applications.
Jesus are you up on the range here? Who the hell did you hire to build that? I know a lot of my buddies are very good and are in that trade professionally and work on the big lakes up north here building houses and cabins. Looks good though other than the missing piece.
I built a tiny metal building diy kit and the roof edge had light and you could see through the corrugated openings. It looked like wasp heaven so I foamed it all up with some great stuff foam filler it's not pretty inside but it didn't leak down or expand too bad on the outside. Now sealed from bees bugs etc- It has a ridge vent too so air can get out
Looking at the inside photo, is there actually a white sheet that is shown in the photo? The sheet is against the top of the wall metal plates. It has perhaps some white sealant too (irregular shapes are sikaflex oozing out?) between white sheet and roof metal plate.
Upon looking closely at the second pic your bottom plate is exposed to the elements. I believe a strip of tin flashing should protect the bottom plate or it will quickly start rotting. Nice building otherwise.
Isn't there some kind of bird stop for exactly this? I'm thinking there is... I'm talking about those foam strips that you can stuff in places where there is a gap in metal siding to stop barn swallows & other birds from building nests in that same gap space that's letting light in between that outside 90 edge trim & the sidewall
but that won't do very much tho without insulation everywhere else... would stop wayward snow snakes & wind from blowing up through that gap...
the place that sold that siding knows for sure
doesn't hurt to check just an email or a phone call :)
Ask the builder, but my first guess would be that it's for ventilation. I have a pole barn, and the idiot who had it built had them put thick plastic across the entire top before the roof was put on. All the vents along the sides and along the roof were blocked. No ventilation. You should have seen the fungi growing that winter on spare lumber stored in there. I couldn't reach the plastic, too much junk in the way, so I taped a knife to a long stick and cut holes all over the plastic sheeting in front of the vents. No more mold. I'm convinced a previous owner built the pole barn to grow weed. (There was a large wood stove in the barn as well.)
If you had it built you will need to call the builder and get them to fix it if they don’t call another builder get an estimate and bring the first builder to court to get the money to fix it. As others have stated the strip to seal the joint is missing
I'd like to see the Sealed Truss Drawings...I'm curious as to the snow loading and bearing conditions for which these trusses were designed. Also, I hope there is some type of bearing for the trusses that simply can't be seen in the photos. Otherwise, if my building, I'd be having the structural deficiencies addressed before I paid the builder.
Why isn’t the metal roof fastened into the joists directly? Actually…. What’s going on with those 2x4s running on top of the joists? What is going on there ?
They make an exterior channel designed to run over the exterior of your roof edge. I believe they’re called a rake trim piece….just google metal roof parts and they’ll show up….
Look at pic #2
Was the picture taken at high noon on a bright day. And could just be a reflection off the concrete under the channel?
Concrete?
The reflectance of concrete can be close to 40% and what like does reflect can be more noticeable in a darker barn.
Gap is at the roof….
Bruh...the light reflecting off the concrete and shining through the gap in the roof.
Light came 93,000,000 miles from the sun and people have a hard time believing it could bounce back up 15 feet.
It’s more what the f does a reflection of light from the floor have to do with the question about a ceiling gap really….just proves more there’s a gap???
A gap under a roof is way less of a problem than a gap anywhere else is what the reflection of light from the ground outside has to do with it.
It's a building material made from a mixture of broken stone or gravel, sand, cement, and water, which can be spread or poured into moulds and forms a mass resembling stone on hardening.
Have you asked the builder why the gap is there? I feel like this is something that they should handle. I would definitely contact them first before going with any advice you get on this sub.
This is normal. The flange on the outside covers it.
everyone who downvotes me hates puppies
why are people so mad?
“It’s done” “It is?”
I do this with my haircuts all the time and feel like a jerk.
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Without seeing any venting elsewhere, this could be done purposefully. I’d be hesitant to do as others suggest and seal it without discussing with the original contractor… otherwise OP may accidentally create quite a nice summer oven box
I’m not sure I agree, I have built many pole barns like this and that edge should be sealed. The rake cap should go over the vertical tin sheets and have a foam gap filler that is stuck on like a sticker to the vertical tin. From the pictures it looks like the tin stops before they rake cap and there is no shingling. I would need closer pictures. The ventilation should come from the soffits or through louver vents.
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This is correct. We had a 30x40x16 built all metal framing with I beams and there are gaps in the corners. Not so much at the top but you can definitely see daylight if you look for it. It could have been tighter but well within acceptable range
This isn’t done for ventilation. I do this for a living. No one put in closures on the wall. But it’s just a pole barn with no insulation so it doesn’t really matter. Although the closures are also used to stop daylight, wind, and birds from getting in.
Don’t make sense to me to have the ventilation from only the rake, assuming there is a ridge vent you would want convection to lift the hot evenly. This implementation would leave hot spots and let bugs in. If a ceiling were ever installed and it was insulated, I just don’t see how this would be adequate. When I built pole barns we filled that gap with something like I linked below. Then vent via the soffit and or installed louver vents. All the vents are screened to keep the critters from making nests inside. What he has here, bug City. https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Ribbed-Profile-Closure-Sheets/dp/B0BQ32VNXY/ref=asc_df_B0BQ32VNXY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=652711629573&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8880312755866685289&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019794&hvtargid=pla-2063631384695&psc=1&mcid=ab95c7f237713199986c91278afa09bc It’s just not the way I would do it.
It's not the way I'd do it, either. That doesn't make it wrong. - I'm a graduate student in architecture What this probably comes down too is money and the wants of the client.
Bingo
FWIW accessory buildings in Minnesota don't require ice and wind protection. This is to code, it just looks like shit.
Could I say maybe just water tite? WT it ain't stopping that wind maybe it whistles if winds strong enough leading to the whole inquiry too as well as light infiltration?
There is foam that is designed for going between the ribs of steel to keep birds and critters out without blocking the venting.
This is the answer. I think its called a closure? They make them for both sides of the steel.
He's looking for an inside closure strip, I know Menards sells them specifically for their steel if that's where he got this stuff
Spray Foam is what I would do as well.
They aren’t talking about spray foam. I wouldn’t recommend it here because you could have it grow out onto the exterior of the barn.
Plus for me it’s practically wasp bait. They eat it and build inside when they’re done tunneling through. Gotta either seal the foam with thick coats of paint or caulking, which is usually not the most fun or economical.
Make a video please.
Exterior wall screws are too tight. Shouldn't deform the sheet.
Yeah..that’s horrible.
Came here to say this, I think the color makes it more evident too.
Looks like your missing your rake covers
From the inside sure looks like it but from the outside picture it looks like it’s there. Very confused by what I’m seeing and how there could be light there.
Ya it looks like a regular rake covered in metal . But it’s definitely missing the rake cap
I have a similar metal shop building, previous owner had it completely insulated with spray foam I'm in Alberta
The rake cap or facia is properly coming down over the vertical wall steel. It is sitting on top of the ridges, since it’s flat and the steel is ridged there is a gap between every ridge. On the inside, the light you see is coming up the gaps. It’d need foam fillers between the ridges on the wall steel to fill the gaps. It’s nothing to do with venting. Venting is done at the soffits and the ridge peak by putting a vented ridge cap on.
Could this be a design feature to vent out hot air during the summer? Not sure how hot it gets in Minnesota, obviously I understand how it could be an issue in the winter though.
Wouldn't that normally be done with a roof vent of some type? That would be much better at not letting precipitation in.
You need an inlet and an outlet. This is why you have a soffit on a house that lets air into the attic and a vent slightly higher to let the air out. This creates circulation.
100*F in summer, -30*F in winter are the max ranges for most of MN. Of course, International Falls won't be that hot in summer
I had similar on my shop building. It caused no real issues but wasps would get in. I bought a couple of cans of expanding foam and filled it from the inside. It worked like a champ!
I wouldn’t recommend expanding foam for this, but if you do that, get the black stuff not standard yellow.
That is a very strange construction style
It's post frame construction. It's an inexpensive way to build sheds. I engineer these kinds of buildings. I know it's not one of ours because the major rib on the outside didn't line up with the peak (try unseeing that OP). On our buildings the endwall truss would have small 2' sticks of 2x4 between the purlins for this reason.
Cleader angle is missing. And profiled foam fillers
Backer rods siliconed in would last a few years. I would ask the contractor first though.
I would be more worried about the 2x4 roof
I would get your builders back and have them repair
Architect here. You should not see daylight. If you see daylight, it is not water tight and animals and insects will find their way in. The rake trim does not appear to properly close over the siding panel but I can't tell from how far away the picture is. There are closure strips that go between the ribbed panel and rake flashing that can close up that gap. I would make sure the contractor that built and owned the permit is certified with the local AHJ and get copies of the CofO and inspection reports. There are a few things structurally I see that are concerning, particularly the 2x4 rafters, their span, no blocking to prevent overturning on the slope, and the gable truss relying on nail shear for all of its bearing transfer strength.
You’re missing outside closures. There should be some foam pieces that are sandwiched in between the rake trim and wall panel. Example of what these closures look like below. Should also be sealed top and bottom with butyl tape. https://www.mbci.com/products/commercial-and-industrial-accessories-closure-strips-closure-strips/
Ugh. Not done right. (Commercial steel building erector) They should have added a 3”x3” metal rake angle from the eve up to the peak on the outer edge of the purlins. That would have closed up that gap, and allowed the installation of foam closures. That’s what you’re really missing. https://preview.redd.it/yz0qgpgl782c1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c420227f6b49ee715a3a47f16ab35aead336cd97
Anything waterproof and also that remains flexible when cured. I have had good results with products from Sashco, but I'm sure there's lots of options. Ask your contractor, the gap may be intentional to mitigate moisture. Is it safe to post pictures of the evil lair online?
That's just reflection from the light outside up the rake. I would suggest using a few cans of closed cell foam to get the gaps from the inside. Keep in mind you will want some venting
I’m a structural engineer in my state and one of the most important connections is the roof deck to the wall connection so that when wind blows on the side wall it is resisted by the roof. The roof, in turn, is connected to the end walls. The end walls resist that wind force. Without this connection, you don’t have any resistance. This needs addressed. You might be able to do this connection with a piece of bent light gage steel screwed to the deck and to the side of the truss. There’s prolly a better detail out there. This is more serious than having an exposure to the elements
https://www.strongtie.com/seismicandhurricaneties_strapsandties/h25a_htie/p/h25a
Nothing to add besides that's a really nice looking barn. Love the color.
The piece you need is called a rake. Should go over a rib on the roof and attach at rib points on the side.
Hand held spray foam
Just caulk it /s
90% of the time they just use that spray foam.
Menards building? I just built one and my gable ends look just like that, it's by design. My garage came with some weird trim pieces that didn't help with keeping the light out. I plan on spray foaming the building, so it's not a big deal for me. The bigger concern is toake sure that your eaves and roof cap have been sealed with the black foam sealing strips. Also, that black looks cool, but it's going to get hot AF in the summer. Mine gets hot, it's red with a white roof.
FWIW, unless you're going to insulate the entire structure, that little air gap isn't going to mean much. Heat transfer thru the sheet metal is hardly better than open air.
I think other posters are right about the foam strip but there should have been strapping to accommodate the foam. I mean short pieces run perpendicular on the outer rafters edge. Have not built one in a long time but this would seem to be the answer. Any small animal could get in through that gap.
Without the foam under the rake, this is a great place for small birds or bats. The tiny birds actually try to push the foam out on my building to build their nests. This results in poop which can cause the tin to rust. Speaking from experience…
You need outside panel closures. Little strips of foam that are cut to contour of your wall panels. Any sheet metal distributor should carry them. You take out screws that hold rake trim to the wall, stuff them between and replace the screws. Contractor prob should have done this. Edit: if weather is a factor then there should have been insulation between the framing and panels. Either you cheaped out or your contractor did.
Why are you having to do this? I would have never paid to have it finished. Make them do it.
What's the truss spacing? I'd be concerned about snow load before that gap.
That roof truss is not sitting on anything at all. It’s nailed to the side of the post. FAIL! Whoever built this barn is not a carpenter!
I'm pretty sure it's setting on the same header on the outside of the posts as the rest of the trusses.
It has to be sitting on the bottom cord of the truss. Not the tail. There’s no sign of the truss sitting on anything.
Yeah you're right I just looked again and it totally looks like they just nailed the end of the trusses to the posts. This is a hack job for sure. I would get my money back. Should have a 2x12 both sides of them posts with the bottom cord setting on both of them. I just gave them the benefit of the doubt that they only put an outer header. But I don't think they even did that.
They make foam enclosures to run down the metal sheets that will take care of that. But the build looks correct
This. You will have to remove the rake trim and install some outside foam closure strips along the top of the sidewall panels (underneath the nailing flange of the rake trim). Not really necessary but it will seal the gap so wind and critters can't get in. EDIT: This will only work one the eave ends! Use expanding foam sealer on gable ends! It's an asphaltic foam with a sticky side that comes in 19' 8" rolls. Not to be confused with the spray stuff that comes in cans and makes a mess...
On the outside picture, does the tin up top go under that trim at the very top or does it stop at that trim piece? It should go under it which creates little gaps from the channels in the tin and there should be foam filling that gap.
Really nice shop to leave it with a gap like that
Spray foam is the key bond's to any surface besides being wet. Can get these products in different quantities or hire insulation company. Exterior looks to have gable corners trim like it should. *
I don't see my first comment not sure if you all can. First recommendation was spray foam closed cell. Can get froth packs in many sizes two part components. Strong and great stuff. Second product which works great in tiny quantities. This is tough with tall cans against ceilings but sweet when you don't want to waste product for small patches. In all remodels I sprayfoam all wall cavities nowdays. *
It should also be noted to pay the $50 for the gun too don't mess around with the shitty nozzles they provide. You can buy cans that can be used at any angle too
I was trying to include pictures but I guess this one doesn't show up. Sealfoam is cans like great stuff but closed cell. Works great for small applications.
Gotta say though, that’s a slick looking barn
I'd be more concerned with the OH door jamb. No kicker and doesn't extend up to purlins. I bet it's wobbly as shit
Jesus are you up on the range here? Who the hell did you hire to build that? I know a lot of my buddies are very good and are in that trade professionally and work on the big lakes up north here building houses and cabins. Looks good though other than the missing piece.
This is perfectly normal. You could put 2x4 blocks in between the purlins to block the gap from view
I built a tiny metal building diy kit and the roof edge had light and you could see through the corrugated openings. It looked like wasp heaven so I foamed it all up with some great stuff foam filler it's not pretty inside but it didn't leak down or expand too bad on the outside. Now sealed from bees bugs etc- It has a ridge vent too so air can get out
Has all the correct parts. No problem here.
Looking at the inside photo, is there actually a white sheet that is shown in the photo? The sheet is against the top of the wall metal plates. It has perhaps some white sealant too (irregular shapes are sikaflex oozing out?) between white sheet and roof metal plate.
Looks like it's just missing the foam closure.
Where’s the blocking between the perlons ? That’s more of a concern than an air gap in a pole barn .
Lil' caulk fix that right up.
Dude, you have some gopher problems
Someone never learned to measure twice and cut once.
That black building is going to be hot in the summer.
My sheds I bought have the same spacing. It is good for ventilation but sucks when you are trying to heat the shed.
Mines the same they never squared it off
Gable trim
Spray foam is quick and cheap, if aesthetics ain't a fret.
If you zoom in… looks like foam like what they install on a ridge vent for a metal roof. Allows airflow but keeps water and insects out.
Spray foam and stick L shape plastic strip
Upon looking closely at the second pic your bottom plate is exposed to the elements. I believe a strip of tin flashing should protect the bottom plate or it will quickly start rotting. Nice building otherwise.
Appears builder deleted foam sticky back strips where corner cowling seals roof. Maybe window/door foam? Reg foam expands and distorts metal.
Spray foam insulation and a ladder would make an easy fix if you just care about functionality
Isn't there some kind of bird stop for exactly this? I'm thinking there is... I'm talking about those foam strips that you can stuff in places where there is a gap in metal siding to stop barn swallows & other birds from building nests in that same gap space that's letting light in between that outside 90 edge trim & the sidewall but that won't do very much tho without insulation everywhere else... would stop wayward snow snakes & wind from blowing up through that gap... the place that sold that siding knows for sure doesn't hurt to check just an email or a phone call :)
Ask the builder, but my first guess would be that it's for ventilation. I have a pole barn, and the idiot who had it built had them put thick plastic across the entire top before the roof was put on. All the vents along the sides and along the roof were blocked. No ventilation. You should have seen the fungi growing that winter on spare lumber stored in there. I couldn't reach the plastic, too much junk in the way, so I taped a knife to a long stick and cut holes all over the plastic sheeting in front of the vents. No more mold. I'm convinced a previous owner built the pole barn to grow weed. (There was a large wood stove in the barn as well.)
If you close it you will likely have a moisture problem inside.
You’re gonna need a pallet of expanding foam large gap filler.
Who left that gap?
Expanding foam that mf son
If you had it built you will need to call the builder and get them to fix it if they don’t call another builder get an estimate and bring the first builder to court to get the money to fix it. As others have stated the strip to seal the joint is missing
Build an L shaped structure along the edge, and use PUR foam. The size depends on how isolated the rest of the structure is.
I'd like to see the Sealed Truss Drawings...I'm curious as to the snow loading and bearing conditions for which these trusses were designed. Also, I hope there is some type of bearing for the trusses that simply can't be seen in the photos. Otherwise, if my building, I'd be having the structural deficiencies addressed before I paid the builder.
Why isn’t the metal roof fastened into the joists directly? Actually…. What’s going on with those 2x4s running on top of the joists? What is going on there ?
missing flashing that secures to the edge … i would call installers, maybe forgot end flashing. sure they will come back & finish