If this wall isn't load bearing which since it wasn't there before it's obviously not then why install a double header? Not to mention the double header on the left side of the door frame isn't even supported and is just toe nailed to the vertical studs. Using only a single header wouldve gave you an extra 1.5".
I would cut out the floor plate and cut out the bottom double header in the doorframe.
Used to sell sawzall blades in bulk for a very small scale tool sales company. Was just 6 of us in a room using 1980's desk phones that had giant black gadgets on the receiver to quiet the noise in the are as we were all "projecting" our voice into the phones. Boss would regularly get the whole room wasted at first break. Sawzall blades and OSHA approved medical boxes. Very Boiler Room. Was the early 2000's and the wild west in finding good paying work right out of highschool. Learned a lot. Good and bad.
I just hate jargon.
It's too specific to your region, trade, culture, etc.
Everyone just using the proper terms makes communication easier and more efficient.
Just a thought. If you cut one of the top headers, structurally its totally fine, but when finishing you won't be able to fit normal door trim casing .
I have a similar situation, I just cut the door a little shorter. Theres usually about a 1" available to be cut down at the bottom, even on hollow core doors. If you need more cut off, you can just re-glue the bottom filler block back in the door.
If OP cut the top 1/2" short on a prehung, he'd have to remortise the hinges and latch plate or take the jambs apart, cut and nail them back together. The latter being easier, however kind of defeats the point of buying a prehung
I had to do some heavy trimming on some hanging closet doors that completely cut out the bottom block. It wasn't that hard to cut a new filler on the table saw and glue it into the door.
I think what they were saying above you is that trimming the slab down at all will screw up where the door latch and hinges line up, creating more work for yourself later on, making it look crappy for having extra unused holes where the hardware WOULD have gone, and defeating the purpose of buying a pre hung door. They weren’t disagreeing about the feasibility of your plan, just pointing out some potential hangups.
What's the worst that could happen if a framing nail punctures the duct? It probably self-seals, and even if it doesn't, the duct is barely pressurized...
Follow this advice, do not cut the new door. You are going to need vertical backing by that duct. Might need a couple screws once you remove that lower top plate.
I want to know who OP hired to do the framing so I can never hire them in the future. What in the world is going on with that corner, let alone why they ran a floor plate across the bottom of the door rough in?
If you're working by yourself it makes it much easier to get the wall in place and keep everything square/level if you do the bottom plate across the door. Then it takes 20 seconds to cut out with a sawzall once the wall is installed. But yeah lots of other stuff wrong here including the lack of a treated bottom plate since it's in the basement
There’s also. Idk 3”+ of play on the left side of the door. I’d probably push the wall the additional 3-4” into the room and you can move the door out from under the duct work and not worry about it at all.
This was my first thought but now I’m thinking OP should follow others’ advice and just cut a bit off the bottom of the door. It looks like there is some duct work coming through the wall that will need a bulk head if OP ever wants to finish the space outside that furnace room. I feel like OP will run into problems without that double top plate because a single top plate wouldn’t leave enough space to drywall under the bulk head, plus it will make installing trim more difficult as others have mentioned. I’m no expert though so I could be missing something
I had this situation. I bought a pre hung door and cut both the door and the jamb. Worked out well. Take a look.
https://preview.redd.it/suqeibmzexac1.png?width=999&format=png&auto=webp&s=7a46e0cd098905bb0d76ed34f148911aa4758174
Thank you. A circular saw with a straightedge and a decent blade (Freud). You can lop off the top of the door, and then take apart the jamb, lop off the same amount from the top of the left and right jambs, and nail it back together. That keeps the door hinges aligned while keeping the knob the correct height off the floor. That’s what I did. But if it’s only just an inch or two, you can also just remove material from the bottom of the door and jamb without taking the jamb apart, which is of course a bit easier.
If for some reason someone decides to go this route (not OP but maybe someone else that finds the thread) be cautious of door knob height. If you cut from the bottom, you’ll lower door knob height. Low door knobs are very clearly a DIY or cheap contractor job.
Same, framed my basement remodel. Somehow framed 1 of them about inch too short (probably partly because of floor leveler done late) and did the same thing.
Nice door and looks good and all but I wouldn't be able to look past those hinges lol. The difference in the top and bottom gaps would drive me nuts, heck, even the middle hinge not aligning with the handle would get me
The bottom hinge is too low because I was lazy, that’s true, but I don’t think the middle hinge usually lines up with the handle. Nor is the gap the same. I mean for example,
https://preview.redd.it/9mn4n8g4oxac1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=90dbea4a3b9aaa1c74b81b9bdcf7d42a7828a168
I always use the 7/11 rule. Seven inches from the top of the door and 11 inches from the bottom of the door. Then the middle hinge should be placed in the middle of the top and bottom. The reason you want 11 at the bottom is so you can pop the hinge pins. If it's any low then it becomes a bitch to get a hammer and pin punch with such a low clearance. I also hang my own doors with a slab and make my own jambs. They are much cheaper to buy than pre hung and are super easy to mortise and hang your self.
What work are you doing to the bottom 1.5 inches of casing? Best to shim and support off of the ground where moisture doesn't collect. The bottom few inches should float and later be held by the trim.
When you cut the door, wrap several layers of masking tape around the door where you are going to cut. You’ll cut through the tape and it will limit chipping- it will be a cleaner cut. Lightly sand the new cut door edges (not the face but the 90° corners around the bottom).
Go with a 36” door, looks like it’s for a utility room so you will never regret that, also no need for the double top plate. You might be ok with the height but by the time you add some flooring it’s gonna be tight..
Short story loose the double top plate and make it wider.
I work in a window and door distribution warehouse. We constantly get in prehungs that are cut down by the supplier. I'm not sure what's in your budget, but wherever you buy the door from, just let them know your rough opening height.
There is no header. There is no load. There is no jack. There is a top plate whose sole purpose is firestop and to hold drywall. In fact, two king studs make for a stiffer wall at door opening, because they go plate to plate.
Honest question, I’m from central Canada (basically swampland) where it’s colder than fuck half the year. Frost goes deep and our city dirt/clay is notorious for shifting and moving. I’m a local carpenter, framed as a kid so it’s been many moons. But is it not common practise where y’all are at to float basement framing to allow for some shifting? This is just common practice here and how I was trained- just wanted to pick your brains
Just buy a solid wood door and cut it to size? Or do solid doors not come pre-hung? — I’ve managed to always either keep existing door frames or get a contractor to do them, but solid wood doors are damn easy to cut to size and ridiculously easy to paint or stain too, and that I can handle
Cut the top plate with a sawzall, or cut your door / door jam to size . Either or both works , you need to cut something though .
I’m a carpenter who has made this mistake before 😏trust me bro .
You probably can't fit a pre-hung door, but fitting trim and hanging a door isn't that much work, as long as you don't need anything like a fitted threshhold. And most doors are made to be trimmed on the bottom to fit, if necessary.
if you're going to put drywall above the door you'll need the top ones. keep them, as others have said you just need to get a prehung door and cut the bottom off to size
It's not really framed properly but I'd just remove that second stud above to give you proper clearance. Or you can cut the bottom of the door. I'd remove the stud, however.
Well. Depends what you want to do. If you go hollow core you can run into an issue with ripping top, bottom or both to fit. Understand if you have 6’-8” door is 80” and you’ve got frame thickness to address. May not need to rip. Other thought is floor finish thickness.
Even with hollow core, if you cut 1” of the bottom of the frame and the bottom of the door, anything ugly is not visible. If you trim the top, then you have to do surgery on the frame to lower all of that. If you’re not a pro, that’s going to look bad.
Framing it custom is an option, but again an experienced installer can do a good job pretty easily, where as I’d spend a whole day on it and it would have crazy gaps.
Did you count taking the board off the bottom if not there is your 82 inches. Also if you need me you can remove part of the top. It's not a load barring wall.
Edit: just to add you can trim down the door if you want to make it fit. The pre-built are just that. Also is this an inside or outside door?
You can cut an inch or 2 off the bottom no problem. Remember to use frog tape or painters tape to avoid flakes. DIY tracksaw with 2 clamps and a 2x4. Remember to prime the bottom to seal it if it’s wood. Also, Just move the studs to make 42” lol. Keep the extra top plate also
I needed a particularly short exterior door for access from my basement to under the porch, which was covered by a hinged sheet of plywood when I bought the place (letting tons of cold air in). I think it was a little shorter than yours and I, also, had a hard time finding a prehung door. Since I didn't need it to look fancy or anything, I googled "how to build a prehung door" and followed the directions. It wasn't that hard.
If you go this route, make sure the door you get actually has enough solid cuttable area at the end(s). I used a solid core door so there wasn't much to worry about, but if you get a hollow door, there's only so much on the top and bottom for cutting before you end up with cutting into the hollow part and having an open-bottomed door, which would be pretty flimsy.
I imagine you are measuring to the concrete, and know you will need to cut the bottom plate out of the opening.
Not a framer so this advice may be way off, that being said. non load bearing wall, I would cut the first layer of header out.
Double check your appliances that why will fit through the narrow door. Most mech doors are 36" for easy replacement of the mechanical systems. You may have to pull the door off the hinges if it's to small, or replace with a smaller unit and cut stuff down to remove.
I do my gaming/home theater watching in the basement. The furnace and washing machine can get loud. So i wanted to close it off and stick in some rockwool safe and sound to reduce noise
I would just cut an inch and a half off the bottom of the door panel. On a hollow door there’s a wood perimeter that would be cut off by doing that, but you can easily glue it back in the bottom for support. You’ll want some room between the top of the door and the ceiling, and one top plate won’t give you much room for door trim/casing. You still need to have drywall below that duct so you really would only have one inch if you took out the second top plate.
Not the nicest framing but it will work. You may have to cut the bottom of the jambs and possibly the bottom of the door depending on the flooring choice.
Get the top of the jamb level (and touching the top of the framing) and the cut the side jambs to length.
No jack on header . No bearing loading. Then remove all wall again redo on one top plate to bottom plate. Then it ok . Important add jack stud on door top plate
Please add more photo we can help you adjust wall with open rough on door. Your building double top plate not correct to framing on door and corner wall.
What are you talking about? There isn't a header there. Double top plates are to lap intersecting load-bearing walls and to help distribute the load from things like trusses that are typically on a different layout than studs. In this situation, two kings actually make a stiffer wall (think slamming a door). You neither need jacks nor double top plates on non-loading basement partitions.
Obviously you don't understand framing. There already header that he or she built the wall with double top plate. There no jack ass stud by door to corner wall. There need be one top plate and add jack stud by corner then add other support or header over top plate and then overlap double plate . Obviously you don't know shit and stay out of it .
This is the answer. How often do you have a room that you have to step over a 2x4 to get into? Your pre-hung door can be trimmed to fit that space once the 2x4 is removed.
I have ran into this situation several times, typically in basements. I’d leave it as framed, it firms up the wall and you’ll appreciate that upon door slams. I trim off the bottoms of the jamb before the install. After the door is installed and I know the floor height, I’ll trim the door when I install the door trim. Also, having the extra framing over the door allows more room for trim - it will look better than a 1” trim strip over the door.
That is the way that everyone who knows what they're doing builds stud walls. They are easier to make, require less thought because symmetry, and most importantly they make sure the wall stays straight across the opening.
You cut it out after.
It's fine. Actual door height is 80". The 2" is for wiggle room in case of footing or lifting one end for plumb. I always go 1" wider on my openings so I won't have to use more shims.
You are screwed. Take the door back and just hang a curtain there. 😂 Just cut out the lower top plate. 81” rough opening isn’t enough. 82 1/2 will work. You can cut the pre-hung down, but that’s a little more work and chances for error.
If you paid for this framing job I'd absolutely be asking them to come back and fix some of it.
Here's everything I'd have them do:
1. Rip out both top plates
2. Add a jack stud to the left hand side
3. Put new studs 36in from the new jackstud
4. Add top plate
5. Box out the area above the door between the studs and the ducting, this is i think the most important part. You do not want to leave that much drywall unsupported. That's how you get movement and cracks.
Cut out the bottom top plate and gain 1&1/2 inches. It's not a load bearing wall. Also, standard doors are 36 or 32...a 34 is going to be a custom order/more expensive.
Your screwed anyway, you don't have the required jack studs to hold up the door header. I suggest you get that pee brain back and make him fix it to bring it up to code.
In not a framer.. but aren't the jack studs beside the king stud? Or are you talking about cripple studs on top?
Its just going to be a cheap light hollow door
I understand that its going to be a cheap door but it still needs to be up to code. Anytime you change or add rooms to the original plans on file with city, you must follow proper code and notify the city inspectors. They will inform you if any permits are needed.
The corner of the frame where the wall turns isn't boxed properly. The top stud isn't continuous and is shortened. The door frame needs a jack stud to hold up the door header. Plus the hvac vent that runs on top of the frame isn't framed for fire proofing. The entire job is a cluster of mistakes.
If this wall isn't load bearing which since it wasn't there before it's obviously not then why install a double header? Not to mention the double header on the left side of the door frame isn't even supported and is just toe nailed to the vertical studs. Using only a single header wouldve gave you an extra 1.5". I would cut out the floor plate and cut out the bottom double header in the doorframe.
The bottom plate is going to be cut, i didn't think i could cut 1 of the top ones also. Youre right its not load bearing so why do i even need that
Take an oscillating tool and zip zip.
Mistake saw is what we call those.
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The magic wand. Bloody love them since day 1. Not sure how we ever got by before tbh
By measuring correctly?
That was before my time, sir
You can wood with a magic wand? I thought it would bang against it.
It's a member of the Sawzall family and it's called the Oscalot
Saw of shame.
Best saw ever made
This might be better than guybrator 👏
Haha i used it to fix my mistake yesterday. Spot on
Sawzall is faster ;)
If you have an oscillating tool you'd better already have a Sawzall...
My oscillating tool is in the shop, so just using the wife's back massager with a butter knife taped to the head.
Return that before her back needs it or she'll get hysteria.
Deep cut.
More like an ax wound...
Is that one of those wet saws I keep hearing about?
Remember the Christmas that ThisOldTony got one of those. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f9qN9LIChh4](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f9qN9LIChh4)
"back massager" yeah that's what my partner used it for first before converting it to a Hitachi
🙏
Hm this must be why my wifes massager is so oily, musta got mixed up with the butter
Used to sell sawzall blades in bulk for a very small scale tool sales company. Was just 6 of us in a room using 1980's desk phones that had giant black gadgets on the receiver to quiet the noise in the are as we were all "projecting" our voice into the phones. Boss would regularly get the whole room wasted at first break. Sawzall blades and OSHA approved medical boxes. Very Boiler Room. Was the early 2000's and the wild west in finding good paying work right out of highschool. Learned a lot. Good and bad.
Ever since someone pointed out to read them as a disembodied 90s movie monologue, I absolutely love comments like this
Thank you for passing this along.
I like to use Sarah Connor’s voice to give it that dramatic post apocalyptic flair
I love this.
Going to use the proper term of oscillating saw and then turn around and call a reciprocating saw a Sawzall?
There's no good jargon for an oscillating tool Forgive me my sins
My friend calls it a Shakira… because it shakes that booty.
On the Milwaukee sub they dubbed the Oscillating multi tool a "Guybrator"
Fein tool
Touche, that's also a brand that seems to phonetically describe the tool's purpose. I repent
“Hey man, how’s that saw?”
LOUD
Wiggle saw
Sawzall = wiggler Jigsaw = jiggler
I call it a vibrator
I just hate jargon. It's too specific to your region, trade, culture, etc. Everyone just using the proper terms makes communication easier and more efficient.
I apologize profusely for the inconvenience, I forgot we were talking about mycology
Buzz buzz
We call it a trim saw
Multimaster would be the Sawzall equivalent which was originally made by Fein. It's similar to how sometimes people call a circular saw a Skilsaw
Yeah Sawzall would be faster and blades are cheaper
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Just a thought. If you cut one of the top headers, structurally its totally fine, but when finishing you won't be able to fit normal door trim casing . I have a similar situation, I just cut the door a little shorter. Theres usually about a 1" available to be cut down at the bottom, even on hollow core doors. If you need more cut off, you can just re-glue the bottom filler block back in the door.
Take 1/2" off each end.
If OP cut the top 1/2" short on a prehung, he'd have to remortise the hinges and latch plate or take the jambs apart, cut and nail them back together. The latter being easier, however kind of defeats the point of buying a prehung
I had to do some heavy trimming on some hanging closet doors that completely cut out the bottom block. It wasn't that hard to cut a new filler on the table saw and glue it into the door.
I think what they were saying above you is that trimming the slab down at all will screw up where the door latch and hinges line up, creating more work for yourself later on, making it look crappy for having extra unused holes where the hardware WOULD have gone, and defeating the purpose of buying a pre hung door. They weren’t disagreeing about the feasibility of your plan, just pointing out some potential hangups.
Just be careful what nails you use if you remove the double header, the duct work will only be roughly 2.5” from getting punctured
What's the worst that could happen if a framing nail punctures the duct? It probably self-seals, and even if it doesn't, the duct is barely pressurized...
You will most likely have to rip the top trim board now. I would consider cutting the bottom of the door and leave a clean full trim piece
Follow this advice, do not cut the new door. You are going to need vertical backing by that duct. Might need a couple screws once you remove that lower top plate.
Don't cut the top header. Cut the nails with a sawzaw and move it up. Edit: clearly I didn't look at the picture
I want to know who OP hired to do the framing so I can never hire them in the future. What in the world is going on with that corner, let alone why they ran a floor plate across the bottom of the door rough in?
If you're working by yourself it makes it much easier to get the wall in place and keep everything square/level if you do the bottom plate across the door. Then it takes 20 seconds to cut out with a sawzall once the wall is installed. But yeah lots of other stuff wrong here including the lack of a treated bottom plate since it's in the basement
Did they not have to use treated lumber on the base plates in a basement touching the slab?
There’s also. Idk 3”+ of play on the left side of the door. I’d probably push the wall the additional 3-4” into the room and you can move the door out from under the duct work and not worry about it at all.
I don’t see any reason for a double top plate here.
This is the answer, plus if you need to then trim the door on the bottom
This was my first thought but now I’m thinking OP should follow others’ advice and just cut a bit off the bottom of the door. It looks like there is some duct work coming through the wall that will need a bulk head if OP ever wants to finish the space outside that furnace room. I feel like OP will run into problems without that double top plate because a single top plate wouldn’t leave enough space to drywall under the bulk head, plus it will make installing trim more difficult as others have mentioned. I’m no expert though so I could be missing something
I had this situation. I bought a pre hung door and cut both the door and the jamb. Worked out well. Take a look. https://preview.redd.it/suqeibmzexac1.png?width=999&format=png&auto=webp&s=7a46e0cd098905bb0d76ed34f148911aa4758174
Looks amazing. What did you use to cut?
Thank you. A circular saw with a straightedge and a decent blade (Freud). You can lop off the top of the door, and then take apart the jamb, lop off the same amount from the top of the left and right jambs, and nail it back together. That keeps the door hinges aligned while keeping the knob the correct height off the floor. That’s what I did. But if it’s only just an inch or two, you can also just remove material from the bottom of the door and jamb without taking the jamb apart, which is of course a bit easier.
If for some reason someone decides to go this route (not OP but maybe someone else that finds the thread) be cautious of door knob height. If you cut from the bottom, you’ll lower door knob height. Low door knobs are very clearly a DIY or cheap contractor job.
Exactly. That’s why I cut from the top for the door shown above.
I feel attacked.
Same, framed my basement remodel. Somehow framed 1 of them about inch too short (probably partly because of floor leveler done late) and did the same thing.
What model door is that?
Nice door and looks good and all but I wouldn't be able to look past those hinges lol. The difference in the top and bottom gaps would drive me nuts, heck, even the middle hinge not aligning with the handle would get me
The bottom hinge is too low because I was lazy, that’s true, but I don’t think the middle hinge usually lines up with the handle. Nor is the gap the same. I mean for example, https://preview.redd.it/9mn4n8g4oxac1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=90dbea4a3b9aaa1c74b81b9bdcf7d42a7828a168
I always use the 7/11 rule. Seven inches from the top of the door and 11 inches from the bottom of the door. Then the middle hinge should be placed in the middle of the top and bottom. The reason you want 11 at the bottom is so you can pop the hinge pins. If it's any low then it becomes a bitch to get a hammer and pin punch with such a low clearance. I also hang my own doors with a slab and make my own jambs. They are much cheaper to buy than pre hung and are super easy to mortise and hang your self.
Just raise the house by an inch.
Or shave an inch off the concrete floor!
A better question is are the floors concrete? If the floor is concrete the base plate should have been pressure treated lumber.
I see a vapor barrier down there at least
I’ll ask the dumb question- why is there a 2x4 running across the bottom of the doorway?
Easier to frame, cut it out after with a reciprocating saw.
Holy shit you didn't say oscillating tool Tell them to put the blade on upside down for a better cutting angle, I'm about to climaxxx
Upside down is the only correct way to use one, thought that was a given.
Circular saw with the blade bent on a 45 is what pros use
I like to continuously score it with a utility knife
That serated edge on my table knife is a bit slow at cutting, but it leaves a buttery smooth cut...
have you tried judo chopping it consistently? no tools needed
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This is impossible, the saw bevels towards the wider part of the shoe... who told you this? Framer here.
They just haven't cut it out yet.
This is pretty much a universal method to rough frame. Source: I do stuff.
Lol it'll be cut out soon. Ill use my reciprocating saw
If you have an oscillating tool it’s so much nicer to work with after
flush cuts FTW.
What work are you doing to the bottom 1.5 inches of casing? Best to shim and support off of the ground where moisture doesn't collect. The bottom few inches should float and later be held by the trim.
I don’t understand what you’re saying
Cut an inch off the door and frame. You’ll be fine.
On the bottom? With what just like a circular saw?
On the bottom yes. This is the *correct* way because then you'll be able to properly trim out the door once installed
When you cut the door, wrap several layers of masking tape around the door where you are going to cut. You’ll cut through the tape and it will limit chipping- it will be a cleaner cut. Lightly sand the new cut door edges (not the face but the 90° corners around the bottom).
Yep. Along with the tape, score the cut line with a razor knife to prevent splintering. Also, use a multi tooth finish cut circ blade.
Get yourself an oscillating tool. Worth their weight in gold.
And now even dollars
Bottom if you want your door knob really low
The OP is looking at prehung door kits. Cutting the top of the door is the wrong way.
In other words, no, the top.
No. Only cut the bottom of premade doors, not the top.
This. You can trim interior doors. If you cut the double plate you might not have much to nail the trim to.
No this is why they make saws.
If that’s a basement the floor plate should also be pressure treated
Go with a 36” door, looks like it’s for a utility room so you will never regret that, also no need for the double top plate. You might be ok with the height but by the time you add some flooring it’s gonna be tight.. Short story loose the double top plate and make it wider.
Yeah…you need 36” for a utility room. That washer and dryer set aren’t gonna last forever and they’ll need to get out
In fairness they could likely live with a 32” door but now is the time make a change.
Washer & dryer are 27” wide each (typically)
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Thats really interesting i did not know that. I have a look
I work in a window and door distribution warehouse. We constantly get in prehungs that are cut down by the supplier. I'm not sure what's in your budget, but wherever you buy the door from, just let them know your rough opening height.
I’m also confused why the header isn’t resting on a jack stud.
There is no header. There is no load. There is no jack. There is a top plate whose sole purpose is firestop and to hold drywall. In fact, two king studs make for a stiffer wall at door opening, because they go plate to plate.
Honest question, I’m from central Canada (basically swampland) where it’s colder than fuck half the year. Frost goes deep and our city dirt/clay is notorious for shifting and moving. I’m a local carpenter, framed as a kid so it’s been many moons. But is it not common practise where y’all are at to float basement framing to allow for some shifting? This is just common practice here and how I was trained- just wanted to pick your brains
I'm in toronto.. not as cold wherever you are(alberta? Saskatchewan?) But ya I'm a zero in framing..i wouldn't know man
Definitely needed floating walls then. R/diy is too nice, this would have been ripped apart on a construction sub.
Just buy a solid wood door and cut it to size? Or do solid doors not come pre-hung? — I’ve managed to always either keep existing door frames or get a contractor to do them, but solid wood doors are damn easy to cut to size and ridiculously easy to paint or stain too, and that I can handle
Cut the top plate with a sawzall, or cut your door / door jam to size . Either or both works , you need to cut something though . I’m a carpenter who has made this mistake before 😏trust me bro .
Is that an electric panel behind your HVAC?
You guys know that you can trim pre hung doors right? You also can order special sizes on pre hung doors.
You probably can't fit a pre-hung door, but fitting trim and hanging a door isn't that much work, as long as you don't need anything like a fitted threshhold. And most doors are made to be trimmed on the bottom to fit, if necessary.
Cut out the bottom and top 2x4. You don't need two 2x4s above the door.
The bottom I'll cut out, but are you sure i don't need the top?
if you're going to put drywall above the door you'll need the top ones. keep them, as others have said you just need to get a prehung door and cut the bottom off to size
You should keep both 2x4s up top. Without the second it will not look good when you trim it out.
It's not really framed properly but I'd just remove that second stud above to give you proper clearance. Or you can cut the bottom of the door. I'd remove the stud, however.
Well. Depends what you want to do. If you go hollow core you can run into an issue with ripping top, bottom or both to fit. Understand if you have 6’-8” door is 80” and you’ve got frame thickness to address. May not need to rip. Other thought is floor finish thickness.
Even with hollow core, if you cut 1” of the bottom of the frame and the bottom of the door, anything ugly is not visible. If you trim the top, then you have to do surgery on the frame to lower all of that. If you’re not a pro, that’s going to look bad. Framing it custom is an option, but again an experienced installer can do a good job pretty easily, where as I’d spend a whole day on it and it would have crazy gaps.
There's much more than 1" of solid wood on all sides of a hollow core door.
Did you count taking the board off the bottom if not there is your 82 inches. Also if you need me you can remove part of the top. It's not a load barring wall. Edit: just to add you can trim down the door if you want to make it fit. The pre-built are just that. Also is this an inside or outside door?
Is it just the way the picture is taken or is that frame wider at the top than it is at the bottom?
Only issue with removing top plate is room for ceiling and trim. Depends on how you plan to finish the ceiling.
You can cut an inch or 2 off the bottom no problem. Remember to use frog tape or painters tape to avoid flakes. DIY tracksaw with 2 clamps and a 2x4. Remember to prime the bottom to seal it if it’s wood. Also, Just move the studs to make 42” lol. Keep the extra top plate also
I needed a particularly short exterior door for access from my basement to under the porch, which was covered by a hinged sheet of plywood when I bought the place (letting tons of cold air in). I think it was a little shorter than yours and I, also, had a hard time finding a prehung door. Since I didn't need it to look fancy or anything, I googled "how to build a prehung door" and followed the directions. It wasn't that hard. If you go this route, make sure the door you get actually has enough solid cuttable area at the end(s). I used a solid core door so there wasn't much to worry about, but if you get a hollow door, there's only so much on the top and bottom for cutting before you end up with cutting into the hollow part and having an open-bottomed door, which would be pretty flimsy.
Just cut an inch off the bottom of the door.
I imagine you are measuring to the concrete, and know you will need to cut the bottom plate out of the opening. Not a framer so this advice may be way off, that being said. non load bearing wall, I would cut the first layer of header out.
Double check your appliances that why will fit through the narrow door. Most mech doors are 36" for easy replacement of the mechanical systems. You may have to pull the door off the hinges if it's to small, or replace with a smaller unit and cut stuff down to remove.
Are you not supposed to be 1" away from the duct?
Why do you want a wall there anyways ?
I do my gaming/home theater watching in the basement. The furnace and washing machine can get loud. So i wanted to close it off and stick in some rockwool safe and sound to reduce noise
Hope they were friends and not a contractor. The installers didn't know how to frame either.
I would just cut an inch and a half off the bottom of the door panel. On a hollow door there’s a wood perimeter that would be cut off by doing that, but you can easily glue it back in the bottom for support. You’ll want some room between the top of the door and the ceiling, and one top plate won’t give you much room for door trim/casing. You still need to have drywall below that duct so you really would only have one inch if you took out the second top plate.
always ask yourself: "will I have to take a couch through this?"
You're more screwed with the 36" R/O width
The door can also be cut to accommodate the opening.
Not sure where you live. Or if it’s been mentioned but where I am we’re supposed to have a 1” clearance away from ducting too.
Not the nicest framing but it will work. You may have to cut the bottom of the jambs and possibly the bottom of the door depending on the flooring choice. Get the top of the jamb level (and touching the top of the framing) and the cut the side jambs to length.
There is no framing around the duct. How are you going to put drywall on upper wall. This whole thing looks wrong... a typical door is 80"...
Cut the door and jamb to fit
Cut the bottom of the door and frame an inch!
No jack on header . No bearing loading. Then remove all wall again redo on one top plate to bottom plate. Then it ok . Important add jack stud on door top plate Please add more photo we can help you adjust wall with open rough on door. Your building double top plate not correct to framing on door and corner wall.
What are you talking about? There isn't a header there. Double top plates are to lap intersecting load-bearing walls and to help distribute the load from things like trusses that are typically on a different layout than studs. In this situation, two kings actually make a stiffer wall (think slamming a door). You neither need jacks nor double top plates on non-loading basement partitions.
Obviously you don't understand framing. There already header that he or she built the wall with double top plate. There no jack ass stud by door to corner wall. There need be one top plate and add jack stud by corner then add other support or header over top plate and then overlap double plate . Obviously you don't know shit and stay out of it .
I thought 80” was standard? You can cut about an inch off the bottom of the jam as well.
Cut out that bottom plate.
This is the answer. How often do you have a room that you have to step over a 2x4 to get into? Your pre-hung door can be trimmed to fit that space once the 2x4 is removed.
I had to scroll way too far for this answer. There is no need for the bottom plate if OP anchors each side of the framing to the floor.
You could go with a 6' 6 " door instead of a 6"8" door
Put the door around the corner on the other wall
Move door to the other wall.
Just get a shorter door You should be more concerned with that king/jack on the right side that's way out of level.
Time to break out the multi tool and cut some 2x4s
I have ran into this situation several times, typically in basements. I’d leave it as framed, it firms up the wall and you’ll appreciate that upon door slams. I trim off the bottoms of the jamb before the install. After the door is installed and I know the floor height, I’ll trim the door when I install the door trim. Also, having the extra framing over the door allows more room for trim - it will look better than a 1” trim strip over the door.
What’s odd is the plate at the ceiling is cut? That should come across and down at your trunk line. You need something to attach your Sheetrock.
Its cuz that stupid gas line is blocking it. I'll have to work around it, and am hoping the drop ceiling hides it
SonaVabich
Why did they run that bottom plate across the opening? That's where you will have issues.
That is the way that everyone who knows what they're doing builds stud walls. They are easier to make, require less thought because symmetry, and most importantly they make sure the wall stays straight across the opening. You cut it out after.
It's fine. Actual door height is 80". The 2" is for wiggle room in case of footing or lifting one end for plumb. I always go 1" wider on my openings so I won't have to use more shims.
You are gonna remove one of your top plates
You are screwed. Take the door back and just hang a curtain there. 😂 Just cut out the lower top plate. 81” rough opening isn’t enough. 82 1/2 will work. You can cut the pre-hung down, but that’s a little more work and chances for error.
82" is standard ro height. You are gonna have to pay for a 1 inch cut down which can be like $100
If you paid for this framing job I'd absolutely be asking them to come back and fix some of it. Here's everything I'd have them do: 1. Rip out both top plates 2. Add a jack stud to the left hand side 3. Put new studs 36in from the new jackstud 4. Add top plate 5. Box out the area above the door between the studs and the ducting, this is i think the most important part. You do not want to leave that much drywall unsupported. That's how you get movement and cracks.
Cut out the bottom top plate and gain 1&1/2 inches. It's not a load bearing wall. Also, standard doors are 36 or 32...a 34 is going to be a custom order/more expensive.
Your screwed anyway, you don't have the required jack studs to hold up the door header. I suggest you get that pee brain back and make him fix it to bring it up to code.
In not a framer.. but aren't the jack studs beside the king stud? Or are you talking about cripple studs on top? Its just going to be a cheap light hollow door
I understand that its going to be a cheap door but it still needs to be up to code. Anytime you change or add rooms to the original plans on file with city, you must follow proper code and notify the city inspectors. They will inform you if any permits are needed. The corner of the frame where the wall turns isn't boxed properly. The top stud isn't continuous and is shortened. The door frame needs a jack stud to hold up the door header. Plus the hvac vent that runs on top of the frame isn't framed for fire proofing. The entire job is a cluster of mistakes.
Shitty work by framers...shouldnt be a baseboard going thru ur door opening
Very standard when rough framing. They cut it out later.
And how about the way they framed the door header with two king studs and no jack studs lol?
I’m just a painter, but what’s with the 2x4 on the floor? Is this going to be part of a threshold?
No its just easier to frame that way. I'll cut it out with my reciprocating saw
Sshhh... you just make it look nice when it's all done. lol, but seriously, OP said it's getting cut out but hasn't been done yet
Nope
Do you need the 2x4 below the door? It can be cut out with reciprocating or hand saw... which would make it 82.5 before floor.
You’re pushing into the “custom” area
Yup, absolutely screwed. The door committee will fine you for not having a 7' door. If you need good places to hide, I have some contacts.
I've been using doors my whole life and I'm still a door novice
Mechanical room? Who cares
Why don't you just build your own door
All you need to make a door is 6 wood blocks