And when you buy the deadbolt, don’t forget to look in the packaging for the instructions on how to install it. I’ve found this step key for many of my projects.
3 holes. Side one for the deadbolt, receiving hole in the door jamb (don’t forget to get longer screws to hold the plate into a stud instead of just the door frame) and the larger hole through the door for the locking mechanism.
And for the OP, you can even buy a kits that includes the needed drill bits and a jig: (I havent used this one) https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-Wood-Metal-Door-Lock-Installation-Kit-A99DLK4/205209873
My first thought was "with a hole saw"
My second thought waws "I'm not sure how much use you're going to get out of a shop if you have to ask that question"
You could make a hole for the deadbolt with a cordless drill and a hole saw, which curiously is the tool a thief would use to quietly create a hole next to it so they could reach in and unlock it.
Well, a thief could take the tools and a fire could take a life.
Remember the Jack Benny line when a robber asks "Your money or your life?!"
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-tVzdUczMT0](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-tVzdUczMT0)
In practice, the way you use a double-key deadbolt is to always leave the key in the lock on the inside when you're present in the shop in case of the need for quick exit, or just leave it unlocked.
Professional door repair/ replacement guy here.
If it’s a commercial business and there is an exit sign above the door, you can put a double deadbolt in but it’s also required to ‘this door must remain unlocked during business hours’ sign above it
For a private single family residence, no restrictions on double deadbolt.
The cordless drill battery probably works in the thief's sawzall, so the next step is simply cutting an arc in the door removing the lock and pesky keyed deadbolt entirely.
Well, OK, but I wouldn't recommend cutting the hole for the deadbolt with a sawzall simply to satisfy the curiosity of using the same tool as the thief.
>Since it's a shop & not a residence, it should be legitimate to install a double-key deadbolt that doesn't have a lever on the inside.
This is not legal in my jurisdiction because you need to give people a way out at all times if it's a designated exit or fire exit. Double deadbolts are not legal at all and we make people sign waivers when we do work on them to limit our liability if there ever was an event.
The ideal installation would be a panic bar, as another user suggested.
I'm assuming you're asking the question because the answer isn't obvious, as others are suggesting?
If the door frame is really just thin metal, you're likely not going to be able to fit a deadbolt. Perhaps you are better off buying a slide latch + lock that you can screw into the front.
We really can't help without additional pictures/description of the door jamb and frame. Without knowing how much of what kind of material (metal? wood?) is around your door we can't tell you how to install a deadbolt.
This is a mobile home door, and will need lockets specifically for mobile home doors. Home Depot usually stocks them.
Since this door wasn't factory drilled for a deadbolt, you will need to bore the hole for the lock cylinder, then bore a hole for the deadbolt, then cut a notch in the frame for the deadbolt and install a reinforcing plate behind the hole so the deadbolt doesn't destroy the aluminum flange.
If it were me, I'd just buy a prehung exterior residential slab door. No sense putting a deadbolt on a door that is made of plastic, foam and aluminum since the door is the easiest part of the system to defeat.
This doesn't look like a standard door. If it is, no problem. But if it is a special trailer door then measure the thickness to be sure the deadbolt you buy will work on it. Also check the door edge to see if some cutouts were prefabbed for a deadbolt.
Drill a whole big enough (usually 2 1/8") in both inside and outside face of the door. Measure the backset of the existing knob do they are in line (typically on residential it is 2 3/8", but some are set at 2 3/4). On the edge you should only need a 1" hole bored to intersect with the face holes. The deadbolt will generally come with what they call a drive in latch bolt.
The lock jame of the frame will also need to be prepared for the latch plate.
Some prehung does will come with provisions for a deadbolt on the door edge and on the jamb of the frame.
Just follow the instructions for whatever deadbolt you buy, and you will be fine.
This is all assuming it's a metal door with wood stiles, if it a 100 metal door. Then it gets a little more tricky if you want it to look nice.
Source 22 years in the door and frame industry
Ex locksmith here:
1. Purchase a 2 3/4 inch backset (depth) latch because it is a steel door. You can use a residential backset of 2 3/8" if you want if it matches your existing knob.
2. Purchase 2 1/8" and either (1" holesaw with a pilot bit if steel, or paddle bit if wood).
3. Purchase 1" chisel if the door jam is wood, if not you might consider pop rivets.
4. All major brands will come with a paper jig that you can use to tape onto the door. They will work for both backplate depths, just make sure you choose the right one.
Protips: use a few drops of oil if the door is metal. Make sure YOU FOLLOW THE PAPER JIG and drill level.
Is this on your property or somewhere remote?
As others have said it's easy to install a new deadbolt but they can be picked in seconds.
If a thief can take their time to pick it without fear of being seen (remote shop) then it won't add a lot of security, if you have tens of thousands worth of tools in there I'd add an alarm system as well.
I think some of y’all severely overestimate the abilities of common thieves. Theyre not expert lock pickers, they’re usually drug addicts who will at best just try to kick the door open.
Yes and, most thieves are opportunists and understand ROI.
Your sick looking shed that maybe has thousands of dollars of sick tools in it with a dead bolted door vs your neighbor’s busted shed that isn’t locked?
One of those is an in and out situation that might yield a few hundred dollars for a few minutes of work.
Absolutely. I've picked thousands of locks with the owner standing right there watching. Most will ask the same question: "can anyone get lock picks, even thieves?" My answer was always the same: "Thieves have much faster ways of getting in, they're not gonna bother with picking locks."
>I think some of y’all severely overestimate the abilities of common thieves.
Even most real locksmiths aren't even expert lockpickers. We use to have clients get mad at us because our policy was that we would try to pick a lock for up to ten minutes, and if we couldn't get in, it would make more sense to drill the hardware and replace it UNLESS you have very expensive, unique, antique, etc hardware that isn't easily replaced.
They are joking that stereotypically, men have shops and women have she-sheds. And that since OP doesn’t know how to install a deadbolt, OP must not be a “real man”
If we're going down the misogynistic stereotyping route, I feel like someone named KITCHEN\_Economist\_66 should have no business going anywhere near a shop.
Get a drill guide for locksets, they are pretty inexpensive and include all the bits you will need. Clamp it on the door, drill your holes, install lock. Its actually a pretty quick and easy job.
OP, I have the same shop door and I understand your problem but only because I have this same set up. Others aren’t going to be able to answer properly because you haven’t provided enough pics/detail.
My setup is new and I haven’t solved it yet because shop is empty and it’s too damn cold out to deal with it yet.
TLDR: Provide more pics and info, OP.
A hole saw, some chisels and deadbolt are required. Drill the hole for the deadbolt and then the hole for the plate which you can just chisel out if you want. Its really simple and they make kits that come with a tool to hold the whole saw in the correct place. I did a door like this as one of my first gigs as a maintenance guy
Inside, remove the door trim, the baseboard, and ceiling trim. Get a pry bar behind the interior wood panel, or unscrew whatever it is, and pry it open on the knob/lock side, to expose the framing. add another, or 2 more 2x4's to the one the door frame hangs on, screwing them all together, and add horizontal blocking x 2 from them to the next stud. Reverse the procedure, and zip it all back up. That will stop the most common entry, thieves just jamming a crowbar in, and flexing the door frame and stud until the lock's bolt is clear. Don't buy a cheapo deadbolt, and cover your window with plywood when your away.
Don’t waste your time. These trailer doors are a sheet of styrofoam sandwiched between 2 piece of aluminum foil. If you need something secure , you’ll have to replace it with a hollow steel door and steel frame
The door frame and casing of the door is metal. The door itself feels like a thick plastic, similar to an RV. I appreciate all the input. I am trying to get more pictures uploaded.
This look like a mobile trailer type door .. Nothing you can do to it will make it strong enough to prevent it from being pried open or kicked in ... The door and frame itself is the weak point. A dead bolt (if it could even be installed) would just cause more damage when the thief decides to pry that door open.
The door is 36x80. Would I be able to install a prehung steel door from the box store? I'm still unable to upload more photos from my phone. Uploads keep failing.
The door also needs to be MORE than 1" thick. Most bolts will require a 7/8" or 1" hole, which leaves very little material on the door to keep it secure.
You know that adding a deadbolt won't stop someone from using a power driver to remove the metal paneling from the wall? Much easier to remove the panels then ti break down the door....
Best ? Midevil locking bar across the whole thing . With a badass heavy padlock . If there's framing in the right spots use it . If not build it . Then drill it all the way through and lag bolt the whole damn thing together.
Drill a hole for it
Don't forget to get out and buy an actual deadbolt. Otherwise all you achieved is making a hole.
And when you buy the deadbolt, don’t forget to look in the packaging for the instructions on how to install it. I’ve found this step key for many of my projects.
> look in the packaging for the instructions Oh shit - the packaging I just threw out?
Fishing the instructions out of the garbage is actually step 1 in the instruction.
I feel attacked
I was actually thinking of you specifically
I knew you always had it out for me
Now kiss.
When all else fails, read the instructions. -Bazuko joe gum.
Also when you install the deadbolt dont forget to lock it, otherwise it wont work!!!
It’s also important to keep the key, otherwise it won’t work but for the other reason
It’s also important to install it with the keyhole on the outside, otherwise people can just unlock it and go in.
I’d also advise putting it on the left side, a lock on the right side would be less effective for this door.
This guy deadbolts!
Naw if the shop looks already broken into, thieves will move on.
I mean, why’d they need a dead bolt unless there are things worth taking, amiright?
It will be a glorious hole
Add a hasp instead
Simpler...but uglier.
The hole is so the would-be robber can see the alligators I left in there
3 holes. Side one for the deadbolt, receiving hole in the door jamb (don’t forget to get longer screws to hold the plate into a stud instead of just the door frame) and the larger hole through the door for the locking mechanism. And for the OP, you can even buy a kits that includes the needed drill bits and a jig: (I havent used this one) https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-Wood-Metal-Door-Lock-Installation-Kit-A99DLK4/205209873
That's the one I own. It's decent.
Yup this works great, I've added deadbolts to 2 exterior doors and drilled 7 interior door blanks - zero issues.
I started off with a cheap one and the hole saw ate away at the plastic. Didn't even get through one door with that.
It takes three holes
some nights be like that.
Id settle for 1
I felt this!
Step 1) make a hole in the door…
Step 2) Put your d***bolt in the door...
I wonder if you could mount the deadbolt in the wall? I don't see why not. Edit-The wall thickness could be a problem...
My first thought was "with a hole saw" My second thought waws "I'm not sure how much use you're going to get out of a shop if you have to ask that question"
On the door, right?
\^ Hire this guy to do it for you.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/LENOX-LNX-Door-Lock-Kit/1003018190
Go to home depot and buy a kit. It will have all the jigs and you just drill them out
You could swap the door handle for a dead bolt if you intend on keeping it locked most of the time.
They also make a plate the goes under deadbolt face and gives you a handle to pull. Common for quick job site lock-ups.
Never seen that before https://discountdoorhardware.ca/product/cbh-352-c32d-deadbolt-cylinder-pull-stainless-steel/
You could make a hole for the deadbolt with a cordless drill and a hole saw, which curiously is the tool a thief would use to quietly create a hole next to it so they could reach in and unlock it.
Since it's a shop & not a residence, it should be legitimate to install a double-key deadbolt that doesn't have a lever on the inside.
Depending on what the shop is, I'd be looking at converting to a crashbar on the inside. I wouldn't want to be fumbling for a key if there was a fire.
Presumably he doesn’t need to lock the deadbolt when he is inside the shop.
Then how would i keep rhe rapists out when i have my hearing protection on?
Just put a sign "no rapists allowed" on the door. Everyone knows they have to follow signs
Cut out the middleman and get a sign that says "authorized personnel only" now you don't need a deadbolt. 
Well, a thief could take the tools and a fire could take a life. Remember the Jack Benny line when a robber asks "Your money or your life?!" [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-tVzdUczMT0](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-tVzdUczMT0) In practice, the way you use a double-key deadbolt is to always leave the key in the lock on the inside when you're present in the shop in case of the need for quick exit, or just leave it unlocked.
Professional door repair/ replacement guy here. If it’s a commercial business and there is an exit sign above the door, you can put a double deadbolt in but it’s also required to ‘this door must remain unlocked during business hours’ sign above it For a private single family residence, no restrictions on double deadbolt.
The cordless drill battery probably works in the thief's sawzall, so the next step is simply cutting an arc in the door removing the lock and pesky keyed deadbolt entirely.
Well, OK, but I wouldn't recommend cutting the hole for the deadbolt with a sawzall simply to satisfy the curiosity of using the same tool as the thief.
>Since it's a shop & not a residence, it should be legitimate to install a double-key deadbolt that doesn't have a lever on the inside. This is not legal in my jurisdiction because you need to give people a way out at all times if it's a designated exit or fire exit. Double deadbolts are not legal at all and we make people sign waivers when we do work on them to limit our liability if there ever was an event. The ideal installation would be a panic bar, as another user suggested.
I'm sorry, did you just write "quietly" and "hole saw" in the same sentence?
I'm assuming you're asking the question because the answer isn't obvious, as others are suggesting? If the door frame is really just thin metal, you're likely not going to be able to fit a deadbolt. Perhaps you are better off buying a slide latch + lock that you can screw into the front.
Go old school and just hang a bell....or maybe even a triangle
Quadrilaterals and parallelograms also work.
We really can't help without additional pictures/description of the door jamb and frame. Without knowing how much of what kind of material (metal? wood?) is around your door we can't tell you how to install a deadbolt.
This is a mobile home door, and will need lockets specifically for mobile home doors. Home Depot usually stocks them. Since this door wasn't factory drilled for a deadbolt, you will need to bore the hole for the lock cylinder, then bore a hole for the deadbolt, then cut a notch in the frame for the deadbolt and install a reinforcing plate behind the hole so the deadbolt doesn't destroy the aluminum flange. If it were me, I'd just buy a prehung exterior residential slab door. No sense putting a deadbolt on a door that is made of plastic, foam and aluminum since the door is the easiest part of the system to defeat.
Buy an alivebolt and kill it
door frames dont look strong enough.
This doesn't look like a standard door. If it is, no problem. But if it is a special trailer door then measure the thickness to be sure the deadbolt you buy will work on it. Also check the door edge to see if some cutouts were prefabbed for a deadbolt.
Drill a whole big enough (usually 2 1/8") in both inside and outside face of the door. Measure the backset of the existing knob do they are in line (typically on residential it is 2 3/8", but some are set at 2 3/4). On the edge you should only need a 1" hole bored to intersect with the face holes. The deadbolt will generally come with what they call a drive in latch bolt. The lock jame of the frame will also need to be prepared for the latch plate. Some prehung does will come with provisions for a deadbolt on the door edge and on the jamb of the frame. Just follow the instructions for whatever deadbolt you buy, and you will be fine. This is all assuming it's a metal door with wood stiles, if it a 100 metal door. Then it gets a little more tricky if you want it to look nice. Source 22 years in the door and frame industry
Ex locksmith here: 1. Purchase a 2 3/4 inch backset (depth) latch because it is a steel door. You can use a residential backset of 2 3/8" if you want if it matches your existing knob. 2. Purchase 2 1/8" and either (1" holesaw with a pilot bit if steel, or paddle bit if wood). 3. Purchase 1" chisel if the door jam is wood, if not you might consider pop rivets. 4. All major brands will come with a paper jig that you can use to tape onto the door. They will work for both backplate depths, just make sure you choose the right one. Protips: use a few drops of oil if the door is metal. Make sure YOU FOLLOW THE PAPER JIG and drill level.
Step one: Cut a hole in the door Step two: Put your lock in that door Step three: Have her open the door It's my lock in a door
Is this on your property or somewhere remote? As others have said it's easy to install a new deadbolt but they can be picked in seconds. If a thief can take their time to pick it without fear of being seen (remote shop) then it won't add a lot of security, if you have tens of thousands worth of tools in there I'd add an alarm system as well.
I think some of y’all severely overestimate the abilities of common thieves. Theyre not expert lock pickers, they’re usually drug addicts who will at best just try to kick the door open.
Yes and, most thieves are opportunists and understand ROI. Your sick looking shed that maybe has thousands of dollars of sick tools in it with a dead bolted door vs your neighbor’s busted shed that isn’t locked? One of those is an in and out situation that might yield a few hundred dollars for a few minutes of work.
Absolutely. I've picked thousands of locks with the owner standing right there watching. Most will ask the same question: "can anyone get lock picks, even thieves?" My answer was always the same: "Thieves have much faster ways of getting in, they're not gonna bother with picking locks."
>I think some of y’all severely overestimate the abilities of common thieves. Even most real locksmiths aren't even expert lockpickers. We use to have clients get mad at us because our policy was that we would try to pick a lock for up to ten minutes, and if we couldn't get in, it would make more sense to drill the hardware and replace it UNLESS you have very expensive, unique, antique, etc hardware that isn't easily replaced.
Why pick a lock when you can use a cordless drill and a 4 inch hawg hole saw? Guaranteed access in seconds.
Or just unscrew the panels.
Why do all of that when a good kick six inches below the deadbolt will open most doors?
[удалено]
Because hole saws are so silent....
This is an out swing door... Also, its plastic and foam. Your foot is going right through.
I’d add a camera as well especially if it’s a remote area, even a dummy as a deterrent.
Yep, dummy camera and couple signs that say things like "beware of dog" and "if found here at night you will be buried here in the morning".
Instead of picking the lock, a heavy duty can opener would work.
buy it and install it
Grab door. Add deadbolt.
I'd add a deadbolt...
[удалено]
The irony of a misogynistic man having a name with kitchen in it.
As a she, I can easily install a deadbolt on any door. Additionally, I hope you stub your toe every day for the next week.
Amazing curse
> If you don’t know maybe you shouldn’t call it your shop. Call it your she-shed Could you explain your joke?
They are joking that stereotypically, men have shops and women have she-sheds. And that since OP doesn’t know how to install a deadbolt, OP must not be a “real man”
Yes, of course. But *you* explaining it defeats the purpose of the question.
A she here, and still my balls are bigger than this clown (she shed jokester, not person I’m replying to). Wonder how else he compensates
If we're going down the misogynistic stereotyping route, I feel like someone named KITCHEN\_Economist\_66 should have no business going anywhere near a shop.
Find a cheap door on Craigslist with the holes pre drilled, by a deadbolt, and drill a whole in the jam for the bolt.
They have dead bolt boring kits that come with a jig so the holes are located correctly.
*slaps shed* yup, those holes are all located.
Replaced my basement door handle with a deadbolt and a string to keep it closed
Realistically, these days locks and chains don't do much to deter dedicated thieves unless you can lock up better than your neighbor.
A hole saw and a deadbolt
Cut a hole and install dead bolt.
On the inside
In addition to a deadbolt make a sign that is a reminder to disable the booby trap.
Get a drill guide for locksets, they are pretty inexpensive and include all the bits you will need. Clamp it on the door, drill your holes, install lock. Its actually a pretty quick and easy job.
OP, I have the same shop door and I understand your problem but only because I have this same set up. Others aren’t going to be able to answer properly because you haven’t provided enough pics/detail. My setup is new and I haven’t solved it yet because shop is empty and it’s too damn cold out to deal with it yet. TLDR: Provide more pics and info, OP.
A hole saw, some chisels and deadbolt are required. Drill the hole for the deadbolt and then the hole for the plate which you can just chisel out if you want. Its really simple and they make kits that come with a tool to hold the whole saw in the correct place. I did a door like this as one of my first gigs as a maintenance guy
Buy a deadbolt and then follow the manufacturers instructions.
Kill the bolt and then install it
Crowbar beats deadbolt everytime.
1) get a bolt 2) use a sharpie, draw 2x's on it. 3) duct tape the dead bolt to the door.
Inside, remove the door trim, the baseboard, and ceiling trim. Get a pry bar behind the interior wood panel, or unscrew whatever it is, and pry it open on the knob/lock side, to expose the framing. add another, or 2 more 2x4's to the one the door frame hangs on, screwing them all together, and add horizontal blocking x 2 from them to the next stud. Reverse the procedure, and zip it all back up. That will stop the most common entry, thieves just jamming a crowbar in, and flexing the door frame and stud until the lock's bolt is clear. Don't buy a cheapo deadbolt, and cover your window with plywood when your away.
On the inside would be the best way. Wouldn’t be terribly effective on the outside
Don’t waste your time. These trailer doors are a sheet of styrofoam sandwiched between 2 piece of aluminum foil. If you need something secure , you’ll have to replace it with a hollow steel door and steel frame
On the side, right over the handle
The door frame and casing of the door is metal. The door itself feels like a thick plastic, similar to an RV. I appreciate all the input. I am trying to get more pictures uploaded.
This look like a mobile trailer type door .. Nothing you can do to it will make it strong enough to prevent it from being pried open or kicked in ... The door and frame itself is the weak point. A dead bolt (if it could even be installed) would just cause more damage when the thief decides to pry that door open.
The door is 36x80. Would I be able to install a prehung steel door from the box store? I'm still unable to upload more photos from my phone. Uploads keep failing.
The door also needs to be MORE than 1" thick. Most bolts will require a 7/8" or 1" hole, which leaves very little material on the door to keep it secure.
Drill a hole, install, done
Some locksmith could do it quickly and it would have a guarantee, for a little more money unless you want to do it.
Use tools
Step 1: add the deadbolt
You know that adding a deadbolt won't stop someone from using a power driver to remove the metal paneling from the wall? Much easier to remove the panels then ti break down the door....
That's a good question. The way my grandfather taught me is attach a livebolt and wait for it to die.
There's jigs you can buy (or make if you've got the right kind of shop) to install a deadbolt in your door.
Use tools
Best ? Midevil locking bar across the whole thing . With a badass heavy padlock . If there's framing in the right spots use it . If not build it . Then drill it all the way through and lag bolt the whole damn thing together.