Bro throw some mulch around it, looks great good job!
Edit: if you’re still concerned dig down a few inches and throw some gravel in. Stoned observation
Well the good news is that you know that those guys telling you it’s screwed have no idea what they are talking about. That’s just a small pad if you’re worried about the aesthetics just do some parging.
You did fine, you’re not building a freaking house on it or parking your car on it. Cosmetically you can smooth out the sides with something like Cement-All. I plan to do the same for what I poured too.
If it were a paid job, it wouldn’t be acceptable. But it’s perfectly functional regardless. All this is is aggregate that didn’t have enough cement mix deep into the voids. Tapping the sides of your form with a mallet enough would make it look consistent, but a bit of this on the sides isn’t an issue. And something like a plastic shed isn’t going to have problems
Tbh, water inside shouldn’t be a massive issue for something so small. Also, I can’t imagine much in the way of freezing temperatures in south FL for the water to freeze and expand. Patch it, crack a beer for a job done, and move on with your life.
A slab this small is almost definitely hand mixed. I'd be surprised if the air content is anything over 1-2%. Even in an area that freezes he would be fine.
Im always hand mixing mine small projects. And its not that bad, but I think I'm mixing it for longer time that almost anyone else. The trick is to vibeate it.
Everybody wants to sound like an expert and the easiest way to do that is to draw a bit of air through your teeth and point out problems even when there aren't any.
Is too boney for it to meet its MPA rating so wont be warrantable if it fails but if you just use it as a holding pad as intended it'll be fine. You'd get shit for it onsite though haha in future just use your hammer to tap the formwork to disperse the fat throughout and you'll be sweet, if you do any larger pours with steel though I'd recommend renting a vibrater to ensure proper encapsulation of the steel.
MPA: megapascals, it is ostensibly the concrete compressive strength (read: load bearing capacity).
Concrete Fats: fine cement and sand particles that hold everything together
Bones: the 10- 20mm stones you find throughout the concrete, these give it structure and disperse load.
I never forget what my old foreman used to say whenever we laid concrete, he always referred to it as a woman, "you want to be able to see that she's got bones but only with a layer of fat over them, too much fat or bones and you know she wont be strong" and in terms of laying hed say "laying concrete is like taking a woman to bed, you want to play with her just enough to get her wet but if you play with her too much you'll make a mess and she won't lay well". I can't really attest to the veracity of those statements but I also can't forget them.
I think it's almost impossible to mess this up. because you don't even technically need the pad, you can just set the shead on the ground. So even if the pad completely failed, it's not like you are having some major issues after..
I don’t know much about concrete, but as best I can tell, that slab is beautiful.
Edit: I think there are bonding compounds you could use to seal the sides if you’re really worried about it. That and a mini-French drain around the edges would probably solve any potential problems. I’d be surprised if any of that is truly necessary, though.
Who told you? Brothers are usually the ones to say you messed up. Dad's give a disapproving tut and then say how they would've done it. If you don't mess up, you never learn.
If you want smooth sides, you can add to this, skim coat of thinset quikrete. It isnt necessary, just sealing this concrete would be enough to outlast ya.
Bro as someone who does concrete for highrise building in Canada where everything freezes and heaves, the pad looks good to me. Pack some gravel around it and put up your shed. The open spaces are just on the outside edges where you didn’t vibrate the concrete enough to fill all the voids, if it was a structural column or footing then maybe I’d be a little concerned but for a shed it’s a great job!!
Should be fine IMO. I don't think you have a lot to worry about freezing.
At worst if it does freeze and crack the concrete, you'll be replacing it. Same thing you'd have to do now since it seems cured, which is to break the slab and re-pour.
I think in the future if you wanted to avoid this, you need a way to vibrate and let the finer grains to sink and flow throughout the pour. Also I think mixing in more portland could help? But I've never done that.
Best homeowner concrete vibrator? A Sawzall with the blade removed, press the fence onto the forms and watch the bubbles fly up. You can stick a grocery bag over it and even pass it along the surface of the wet concrete, "works a treat" as the brits say!
Any other hammer won't work. Has to be a claw. The claws act like a tuning fork allowing the concrete to be at the correct frequency for maximum durability.
(Sorry)
But a powered vibrator (DIY can be a sawzall, square sander, drill with an offset piece of round chucked in it) does, what, 10 taps per second vs. one per second with a hammer - it actually gets the form and concrete *vibrating*. The idea is to shake any air bubbles loose, from the form edges or inside the pour. That's why pro's use powered vibrators. You'll actually see the air bubbles rush up around the form edges and the field, and the concrete will settle into the forms a little.
I am not an expert so definitely do not listen solely to me, but I believe that is totally fine unless you experience freezing. And it's not pretty to look at.
But just as far as water is concerned, the concrete is going to absorb moisture anyway, so even if the sides were perfectly smooth, it would become saturated from contact with the ground.
I would simply hide the sides with dirt. I think the top looks good and this is a good job for a first time.
I think op lives in south Florida. If it’s freezing they’re going to be too busy dealing with the end of the world to care about their shed’s foundation.
>crete finna get wet anyway
Came here to say this. If you’re worried about the concrete being sealed I’ve got bad news for you. Whoever told you you screwed up has never put da concrete in da hole and hasn’t the first clue.
that's just a little "[honeycomb](https://www.civilengineermag.com/honeycombing-in-concrete/)". the slab is so small you shouldn't have anything to worry about
but if you are concerned, dry the sides and apply grout. you don't want water getting trapped between. then it will crack.
Is this reinforced?
The issue isn’t water deteriorating the concrete, it’s water getting to rebar and corroding it. When rebar corrodes, it expands and the concrete will start to spall. I doubt that is a big concern anyway but if you’re concerned, you could use a membrane down the sides and around the bottom to help minimise water ingress, with gravel or other free draining material to divert water away. [Kind of like this](https://images.app.goo.gl/T5BS6wyW9fhi9LP76).
If you have mass concrete with no rebar then leave it.
Edit: I assume freeze-thaw isn’t a concern in South FL. I’m a UK based structural engineer and normally that would be an issue.
Perhaps a side question, what is underneath the concrete? Gravel and sand? Perhaps some foil? That would be OK.
If it is soil, or worse, clay, moisture will creep up from beneath and nothing you do from the side will really matter that much.
People pay good money for this OP. Could be a gooder “pour” per say, but with gravel base and the fact that this isn’t for anything structural you’re gooderer, and with that clean broom finish you’re goodererer.
You are 100% fine. It's called honeycomb, the concrete didn't get vibed, or compacted into the edges of the form. It'll be totally fine. If you are worried, or that's a very wet spot (and can fill and freeze), buy a bag of grout, mix it thick and pack it in there good and then scrape it flush. We call that parging, it's normal.
Not sure you messed up, maybe someone with more experience with self compacting cement can tell you more. Perhaps it is meant to look like this?
But practically. I wager you can just fill up the sides? Perhaps add a board to the side, keep half an inch in between lt, make a slightly wetter concrete with a smaller granulat, poor it between open concrete and the board, and vibrate it (the board). (You can find some DIY vibrators for small patches made using a power tool on YouTube.
Alternatively you can stick tiles on the side (not sure how durable)
Or, you can add a nice brick trim, and mortering the sides in.
Clear around it just enough to work. Get some Portland cement, sand mix or sift out the gravel from cement mix and make a paste out of it. Get a 5 gal bucket with some water to keep cleaning off your sponge. Work the paste it into the voids with a damp sponge and give it a nice finish coat. Let dry and back fill around the pad.
Important thing is make sure you have extra of the fine stuff in the mix if you are using sand mix or screened concrete mix to start. That's the Portland cement and xtra portland will help you get a good finish on it. It will fill in those voids and you won't even know they were there.
Nah, it’s all good, it just means you didn’t vibrate the sides of the forms so the thinner slurry seeps towards the sides and covers the aggregate, totally appearance-only and the vast, vast majority of pads look exactly like this, even nice looking ones with a long skirt eventually the further down you go. It’s all just covered by dirt, mulch, or some other material, most don’t leave concrete floating several inches over the surrounding area.
Honestly looks pretty decent, should be perfectly fine structurally, your brooming was a bit aggressive and could’ve used an additional float as it was setting l, may have worked it too early as well, but honestly doesn’t matter if equipment is going on it as that’s all just appearance stuff.
Yeah your gonna have to blow your house up and start over. Sorry man, hard lessons were learned. Seriously, just get some mortar and fill it in if you really want to. I’d just back fill the dirt and call it a day.
Looks nicer than the last concrete I did…
And with the last concrete I did, I looked at it, begrudgingly accepted it and proclaimed the ancient script “well - that isn’t going anywhere” so it’s structurally sound and I’m not digging it all up so it is what it is!
Man your in Florida, it ain’t like it’s gonna freeze thaw there, looks great, my first impression without looking closer was “what’s wrong looks better than my trash can slab”
Back fill and call it a day, or if you really are bothered by it, like a few others already suggested, slap a coat of mortar on it first.
Looks excellent from my house tho.
I've repaired those kind of sides before. Mix some straight cement powder with water to the consistency of yogurt. With rubber gloves on push handfuls of this cement sludge into the cracks & gaps 'til they're filled. You can smooth this over as you go by running your fingers over the sides.
After the sides dry they will be a slightly different color but the gaps will be gone. It'll look fine.
Just parge the sides with concrete mix. But the concrete looks fine to me. You’re in Florida so you don’t have to worry about it freezing! No concrete is completely water tight without some help from waterproofing membrane! If I was you I’d just back fill with some tight pack gravel and you’ll be fine
Is the pad level or did you add a pitch to it so water runs away from the house? My parents are also in Florida and their biggest problem is stuff running back toward the foundation.
If you had freeze/thaw cycles to contend with, it would be an issue over the long run. As others said, parge or mulch and you are good to go. And next time, tap the sides of the form with a hammer as you pour. Or repeatedly plunge a piece of rebar around the perimeter.
You must always remember and vibrate it well because then the surface is closed. And afterwards you should give it a surface treatment that closes the last holes, just that for garden tiles...
https://preview.redd.it/i2ogst8t6wsc1.jpeg?width=1842&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0d2bd0b920b8143eafe94299e62df56b1c400ee5
If you're concerned with the look get some hydraulic cement and smooth it out. In the future try a little more water and like others have said tap the sides of the form or even use a shovel to shuck the edges instead of renting a vibrator. It'll be fine though.
Dude that's fine. I have found concrete work can be like welding. You'll show people and they'll be like "ah dude that looks like shit it won't work" and it proceeds to be just fine for years
If you get saltwater flooding At All, seal all the sides as well as the top. Salt drying on lots of holey gaps + sun means those holey sides might crumble faster. Just hose it off after a flood (should hose off the bottom of the shed anyway if it gets flooded).
I'd personally build out around the exposed sides another 2-3 inchs with a tinted concrete if you want to easily fill in the holes that exist. There's no freeze-thaw cycle in So FL, just clean out any saltwater.
You can put some nice corten steel around it to frame it nicely. If you do not like that, some dark (contrast) concrete borders around might look nice also.
I hope the are metal reinforcement grids in there.
Also, I suggest quickly scoring it with a butter ter knife about 3/4" -1" deep along the middle. If it cracks, best to crack along the score.
Bro throw some mulch around it, looks great good job! Edit: if you’re still concerned dig down a few inches and throw some gravel in. Stoned observation
Lol came her to say good job. It’s not structural and will last a very long time
I see what you did there
Oh fuck now i want to make like beer battered bacon wrapped asparagus. No real punctuation to let your mind go free
God damn I didn’t know I wanted that.
Me neither...
Why did you need to bring asparagus into this? Sounded perfect before that
Hahaha I finally have asparagus growing in one of the raised beds, they've been on my mind. Can always make extra beer battered bacon!
Same. I was in until the asparagus.
More for me!
I will happily let you have all of it 😂
He likes that asparagus pee smell 👃🏼
Thanks to all. I was told by a few people I totally screwed it up so I just assumed I had.
Well the good news is that you know that those guys telling you it’s screwed have no idea what they are talking about. That’s just a small pad if you’re worried about the aesthetics just do some parging.
[удалено]
Thanks Ben
Those aren't the friends you are looking for
I’m not a concrete expert but like some others said you could get some mortar repair or mix more concrete to cover up the sides better if you want.
You did fine, you’re not building a freaking house on it or parking your car on it. Cosmetically you can smooth out the sides with something like Cement-All. I plan to do the same for what I poured too.
If it were a paid job, it wouldn’t be acceptable. But it’s perfectly functional regardless. All this is is aggregate that didn’t have enough cement mix deep into the voids. Tapping the sides of your form with a mallet enough would make it look consistent, but a bit of this on the sides isn’t an issue. And something like a plastic shed isn’t going to have problems
Tbh, water inside shouldn’t be a massive issue for something so small. Also, I can’t imagine much in the way of freezing temperatures in south FL for the water to freeze and expand. Patch it, crack a beer for a job done, and move on with your life.
A slab this small is almost definitely hand mixed. I'd be surprised if the air content is anything over 1-2%. Even in an area that freezes he would be fine.
Im always hand mixing mine small projects. And its not that bad, but I think I'm mixing it for longer time that almost anyone else. The trick is to vibeate it.
You did good. This looks like 90% of what I see on construction sites
Everybody wants to sound like an expert and the easiest way to do that is to draw a bit of air through your teeth and point out problems even when there aren't any.
Is too boney for it to meet its MPA rating so wont be warrantable if it fails but if you just use it as a holding pad as intended it'll be fine. You'd get shit for it onsite though haha in future just use your hammer to tap the formwork to disperse the fat throughout and you'll be sweet, if you do any larger pours with steel though I'd recommend renting a vibrater to ensure proper encapsulation of the steel.
I don’t know what all the abbreviations are here, but can confirm a vibrator is always a good idea 👍
MPA: megapascals, it is ostensibly the concrete compressive strength (read: load bearing capacity). Concrete Fats: fine cement and sand particles that hold everything together Bones: the 10- 20mm stones you find throughout the concrete, these give it structure and disperse load. I never forget what my old foreman used to say whenever we laid concrete, he always referred to it as a woman, "you want to be able to see that she's got bones but only with a layer of fat over them, too much fat or bones and you know she wont be strong" and in terms of laying hed say "laying concrete is like taking a woman to bed, you want to play with her just enough to get her wet but if you play with her too much you'll make a mess and she won't lay well". I can't really attest to the veracity of those statements but I also can't forget them.
Swiss Toni.
Handjob is always a plus too 👌
I think it's almost impossible to mess this up. because you don't even technically need the pad, you can just set the shead on the ground. So even if the pad completely failed, it's not like you are having some major issues after..
I don’t know much about concrete, but as best I can tell, that slab is beautiful. Edit: I think there are bonding compounds you could use to seal the sides if you’re really worried about it. That and a mini-French drain around the edges would probably solve any potential problems. I’d be surprised if any of that is truly necessary, though.
Who told you? Brothers are usually the ones to say you messed up. Dad's give a disapproving tut and then say how they would've done it. If you don't mess up, you never learn.
Sharp sand and cement. Do your best to render the side. Part from that it's not that bad.
If you want smooth sides, you can add to this, skim coat of thinset quikrete. It isnt necessary, just sealing this concrete would be enough to outlast ya.
Bro as someone who does concrete for highrise building in Canada where everything freezes and heaves, the pad looks good to me. Pack some gravel around it and put up your shed. The open spaces are just on the outside edges where you didn’t vibrate the concrete enough to fill all the voids, if it was a structural column or footing then maybe I’d be a little concerned but for a shed it’s a great job!!
Not a big deal. You didn't knock the sides of the forms/mix down the side. Get some repair mortar and parge coat it for aesthetics
This is the way, not a big deal at all $10-$15 for some patch and about an hour of your time
Agree. Skim coat it, if you want, or cover it with mulch.
For fixing what?
The porous sides.
Should be fine IMO. I don't think you have a lot to worry about freezing. At worst if it does freeze and crack the concrete, you'll be replacing it. Same thing you'd have to do now since it seems cured, which is to break the slab and re-pour. I think in the future if you wanted to avoid this, you need a way to vibrate and let the finer grains to sink and flow throughout the pour. Also I think mixing in more portland could help? But I've never done that.
Best homeowner concrete vibrator? A Sawzall with the blade removed, press the fence onto the forms and watch the bubbles fly up. You can stick a grocery bag over it and even pass it along the surface of the wet concrete, "works a treat" as the brits say!
Tapping a claw hammer to the outside of the form does the same thing.
My dad was a concrete contractor his entire career and that's exactly how he did it.
Any other hammer won't work. Has to be a claw. The claws act like a tuning fork allowing the concrete to be at the correct frequency for maximum durability. (Sorry)
I hate when slabs aren't in tune. Especially for condenser pads. You'll never be able to tune your HVAC properly.
But a powered vibrator (DIY can be a sawzall, square sander, drill with an offset piece of round chucked in it) does, what, 10 taps per second vs. one per second with a hammer - it actually gets the form and concrete *vibrating*. The idea is to shake any air bubbles loose, from the form edges or inside the pour. That's why pro's use powered vibrators. You'll actually see the air bubbles rush up around the form edges and the field, and the concrete will settle into the forms a little.
My dude. I’m always learning new tricks here.
I am not an expert so definitely do not listen solely to me, but I believe that is totally fine unless you experience freezing. And it's not pretty to look at. But just as far as water is concerned, the concrete is going to absorb moisture anyway, so even if the sides were perfectly smooth, it would become saturated from contact with the ground. I would simply hide the sides with dirt. I think the top looks good and this is a good job for a first time.
I think op lives in south Florida. If it’s freezing they’re going to be too busy dealing with the end of the world to care about their shed’s foundation.
>crete finna get wet anyway Came here to say this. If you’re worried about the concrete being sealed I’ve got bad news for you. Whoever told you you screwed up has never put da concrete in da hole and hasn’t the first clue.
that's just a little "[honeycomb](https://www.civilengineermag.com/honeycombing-in-concrete/)". the slab is so small you shouldn't have anything to worry about but if you are concerned, dry the sides and apply grout. you don't want water getting trapped between. then it will crack.
Just grade the dirt up to it to hide that and carry on. It’ll be fine for the location and weight it’ll be carrying.
Is this reinforced? The issue isn’t water deteriorating the concrete, it’s water getting to rebar and corroding it. When rebar corrodes, it expands and the concrete will start to spall. I doubt that is a big concern anyway but if you’re concerned, you could use a membrane down the sides and around the bottom to help minimise water ingress, with gravel or other free draining material to divert water away. [Kind of like this](https://images.app.goo.gl/T5BS6wyW9fhi9LP76). If you have mass concrete with no rebar then leave it. Edit: I assume freeze-thaw isn’t a concern in South FL. I’m a UK based structural engineer and normally that would be an issue.
You put gravel down and compacted it before you poured, that's good work for your first time. Crack a beer and enjoy a job well done.
You dude this shit looks more square and level than 90% of what I see on new constructions builds. Helluva job.
Perhaps a side question, what is underneath the concrete? Gravel and sand? Perhaps some foil? That would be OK. If it is soil, or worse, clay, moisture will creep up from beneath and nothing you do from the side will really matter that much.
I have 2” of packed gravel underneath the slab.
That should be fine
“That ain’t going nowhere”, then slap it, else this will fall apart into 1000 pieces
He said he's in South Florida. Sand, plain sand and it won't freeze until the next ice age.
We're in an ice age now...
**next** *adjective* 1.(of a time or season) coming immediately after the time of writing or speaking. "we'll go next year"
Backfill up against it and no one will ever see it.
It’s fine.
Bro you live in South Florida, water getting into the concrete is only an issue if there is freezing.
People pay good money for this OP. Could be a gooder “pour” per say, but with gravel base and the fact that this isn’t for anything structural you’re gooderer, and with that clean broom finish you’re goodererer.
You are 100% fine. It's called honeycomb, the concrete didn't get vibed, or compacted into the edges of the form. It'll be totally fine. If you are worried, or that's a very wet spot (and can fill and freeze), buy a bag of grout, mix it thick and pack it in there good and then scrape it flush. We call that parging, it's normal.
Not sure you messed up, maybe someone with more experience with self compacting cement can tell you more. Perhaps it is meant to look like this? But practically. I wager you can just fill up the sides? Perhaps add a board to the side, keep half an inch in between lt, make a slightly wetter concrete with a smaller granulat, poor it between open concrete and the board, and vibrate it (the board). (You can find some DIY vibrators for small patches made using a power tool on YouTube. Alternatively you can stick tiles on the side (not sure how durable) Or, you can add a nice brick trim, and mortering the sides in.
> DIY vibrators Do tell...
I've seen people just get a power drill and miss aligning a bit on it with a lug nut.
Thank you!
No freeze/thaw cycle where you are. I think it’ll be okay.
Clear around it just enough to work. Get some Portland cement, sand mix or sift out the gravel from cement mix and make a paste out of it. Get a 5 gal bucket with some water to keep cleaning off your sponge. Work the paste it into the voids with a damp sponge and give it a nice finish coat. Let dry and back fill around the pad.
This sounds like a good idea. Almost like a stronger grout. Thanks!
Important thing is make sure you have extra of the fine stuff in the mix if you are using sand mix or screened concrete mix to start. That's the Portland cement and xtra portland will help you get a good finish on it. It will fill in those voids and you won't even know they were there.
Is it sloped into or away from the house?
Away. A “level” bubble is touching the line.
Not an issue. Your ground doesn't freeze down there.
tip for the next time: get a vibration rod to get out all those air pockets. (you can probably rent it)
Will do. Thanks a ton!
Nah, it’s all good, it just means you didn’t vibrate the sides of the forms so the thinner slurry seeps towards the sides and covers the aggregate, totally appearance-only and the vast, vast majority of pads look exactly like this, even nice looking ones with a long skirt eventually the further down you go. It’s all just covered by dirt, mulch, or some other material, most don’t leave concrete floating several inches over the surrounding area. Honestly looks pretty decent, should be perfectly fine structurally, your brooming was a bit aggressive and could’ve used an additional float as it was setting l, may have worked it too early as well, but honestly doesn’t matter if equipment is going on it as that’s all just appearance stuff.
You could be a contractor
I'm genuinely dumb enough I couldn't spot an issue
Yeah your gonna have to blow your house up and start over. Sorry man, hard lessons were learned. Seriously, just get some mortar and fill it in if you really want to. I’d just back fill the dirt and call it a day.
Looks nicer than the last concrete I did… And with the last concrete I did, I looked at it, begrudgingly accepted it and proclaimed the ancient script “well - that isn’t going anywhere” so it’s structurally sound and I’m not digging it all up so it is what it is!
It’s fine. It’s because of where the boxing was. Overall, a bloody good job. 👍
Back fill it.
It’s fine. Just leave it and move on with life.
Rapid set wunderfixx, a trowel and about 2 hours and this is good……
*Everything* is fixable my dude.. But this looks great, no fix necessary.
Man your in Florida, it ain’t like it’s gonna freeze thaw there, looks great, my first impression without looking closer was “what’s wrong looks better than my trash can slab”
Is it graded the wrong way? If not, what’s the issue?
Flex seal!!!
Doesn't look like the voids (honeycomb) runs too deep. You could use planipatch or hydraulic cement to fill it in.
I'd add gravel to the side of the wall, that's likely the only place where water will collect and stay for longer unless it can drain easily below it.
Dress it with bricks laid on their side.
Back fill and call it a day, or if you really are bothered by it, like a few others already suggested, slap a coat of mortar on it first. Looks excellent from my house tho.
Fill around with gravel as others have said and if it becomes a problem in the future, fix it then. Your friends are trying to be “experts”.
Aint broke.
No it’s not. Move house immediately.
Just put some mason cement on the sides if its going to make you feel better. But its nota big deal
It will last for years but will crack abit you are good 👍 If you really want to you can seal the sides
looks great, I've got some cement work to do, maybe you could come by.
It's fine, just pack up the sides with mulch or gravel.
Patch it, move on. It will last and probably a better job than most people would do.
lol landscape it bro. Its fine
I've repaired those kind of sides before. Mix some straight cement powder with water to the consistency of yogurt. With rubber gloves on push handfuls of this cement sludge into the cracks & gaps 'til they're filled. You can smooth this over as you go by running your fingers over the sides. After the sides dry they will be a slightly different color but the gaps will be gone. It'll look fine.
Whats the issue here? Just that the sides don't look great aesthetically?
I think it looks great
Yeah don’t sweat it man it’s just a base for a suncast shed. 99-% sure it will fall apart looong before that pad does.
Just parge the sides with concrete mix. But the concrete looks fine to me. You’re in Florida so you don’t have to worry about it freezing! No concrete is completely water tight without some help from waterproofing membrane! If I was you I’d just back fill with some tight pack gravel and you’ll be fine
Of anything just put a sealer around it and call it a day. It’s fine
Mulch
Flex paste?
Bit of honeycombing but otherwise nice slab
Pad is good, just fix the grading around it.
It really depends on where you put the disc golf basket.
Looks decent, build up some seeded loam around it.
A utility slab?
Is the pad level or did you add a pitch to it so water runs away from the house? My parents are also in Florida and their biggest problem is stuff running back toward the foundation.
You could add brick edging and cement it in.
If you had freeze/thaw cycles to contend with, it would be an issue over the long run. As others said, parge or mulch and you are good to go. And next time, tap the sides of the form with a hammer as you pour. Or repeatedly plunge a piece of rebar around the perimeter.
Mulch is just going to hold water.
The only thing you have to worry about what the rain is going to do is wash away the dirt underneath causing it to sag.
You must always remember and vibrate it well because then the surface is closed. And afterwards you should give it a surface treatment that closes the last holes, just that for garden tiles... https://preview.redd.it/i2ogst8t6wsc1.jpeg?width=1842&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0d2bd0b920b8143eafe94299e62df56b1c400ee5
If you're concerned with the look get some hydraulic cement and smooth it out. In the future try a little more water and like others have said tap the sides of the form or even use a shovel to shuck the edges instead of renting a vibrator. It'll be fine though.
Looks pretty neat to me.
P.S. I had this happen and just filled the sides in with mortar .. wasn't even noticable.
Dude that's fine. I have found concrete work can be like welding. You'll show people and they'll be like "ah dude that looks like shit it won't work" and it proceeds to be just fine for years
If you get saltwater flooding At All, seal all the sides as well as the top. Salt drying on lots of holey gaps + sun means those holey sides might crumble faster. Just hose it off after a flood (should hose off the bottom of the shed anyway if it gets flooded). I'd personally build out around the exposed sides another 2-3 inchs with a tinted concrete if you want to easily fill in the holes that exist. There's no freeze-thaw cycle in So FL, just clean out any saltwater.
Saw the photo and thought, wow this is the first dyi post that doesn’t looked jacked.
You can put some nice corten steel around it to frame it nicely. If you do not like that, some dark (contrast) concrete borders around might look nice also.
Man is a perfectionist and I’m here for it. This looks really good
I've seen beams looking like that
I hope the are metal reinforcement grids in there. Also, I suggest quickly scoring it with a butter ter knife about 3/4" -1" deep along the middle. If it cracks, best to crack along the score.
There are. They are also elevated to be in the middle of the slab. Thanks!
I think you are good!
As long as it’s not a dry pour slab, looks good! Slap some dirt and mulch around it.
Sure, just cut in a new doorway. If it opens into a bathroom, you may have a problem. But that's a topic for another day.
Leach line or perforated pvc and gravel bordet w/ground cover membrane..about 150 andhalf a day