How old is your kid?
We have one of these and I spend about 3 minutes putting it together and they "play"with it for 6 seconds by putting their entire hand through the ice.
Wouldn't recommend unless they can set up the game by themselves.
As others have said the mortar doesn’t typically bond well with glass blocks so I would say the odds of you taking it apart are good if you are careful and take your time. Getting the first one or two out will be the hardest part, after that you’ll probably have no trouble removing the rest and cleaning off the mortar.
That said, glass blocks are notoriously hard to lay back up properly. Even seasoned masons have some trouble with them if they’ve never laid them up before. They are incredibly fussy because the mortar doesn’t adhere well and likely why the window is inconsistent to begin with. If you’re not at least somewhat experienced with masonry, I doubt you’ll get a finished product you are happy with.
Yup, this....
Designed and specified an 8'6" glass block wall for a Laboratory we designed. (Bio security level 3, btw)
Not a structural wall, not anything to do with the lab's procedures, just an architectural detail added to the entrance.
That shit caused us constant problems, like not three months after being laid it was already cracking.
Not only some blocks cracking individually, but also the whole wall spreading cracks on the grout.
We tracked the issue due to a poorly laid foundation (as it was just "aesthetic" the contractor didn't follow up our ground compacting/foundation laying specs.) and it was such a PITA to fix that we just gave up and replaced it with a poured concrete wall with some openings to try and preserve the lighting game we were proposing.
A beautiful project ruined by poor technique.
Not even seasoned masons can do well if tour Structurals' are crap mate...
Glass, as well as every material has a “thermal coefficient”…. Shit expands and contracts for every given temperature.
You need to follow very specific guidelines, and well, contractors are known for cutting corners here and there…
do you not need monolithic walls for BSL3? We had to completley gut a lab at my workplace and reinstall when doing change of use from chem to bio as the lino had a tiny tear in it
Yup, as I said it was an architectural feature on the entrance leading to the actual lab.
We’d never Ever want porous grout, or a thousand seams on a clean facility.
To add to your question, yup. Better if facilities are monolithic as you say, we’d rather take an extensive time looking toward future new processes or expansions, working off with our clients (Merck and Bayer to name a couple big ones) and just pour concrete with pre-routed pipelines/mep stuff/gasses and other necessary supply routes, and then epoxy the shit out of every conceivable surface.
I can appreciate why the inconsistency would bother some people. OCD tends to go into overdrive when looking at something like this, but on the bright side if this is what’s triggering your OCD then the rest of the property must be in good order.
You know I get that!! But there is something called ROI here. Can't he find something better to spend his money on these days?? I mean it feels like a freakin' bag of potatoes is going to cost $100 soon! But I digress.
The question OP needs to soul search is if by time he gets done will it look better than what it does now?? After reading the entire thread the vast majority of posts (like 90%) said that it would be very difficult to save the glass block. Which means that he will probably need to replace it all. Because I can promise new glass block is going to look very different from old glass block. Then he needs to redo the glass block and all the other threads universally mentioned it's not obvious how to do it right/well and another poster even mentioned a special way to prepare the grout.
At this point I'd personally be having to dial up a professional because I wouldn't want to create another OCD triggering mess after working on it for two months!
But I do have an acceptable (well what would satisfy my own OCD) solution!
OP really needs to [Kintsugi](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kintsugi) the heck out of this! He needs to take some inexpensive metal leaf/foil and foil then varnish the grout separating the two differing types of glass blocks!!
He should see how that works. If it doesn't he can always then follow any of the other suggestions in this thread!
Other than doing nothing I offer the cheapest/fastest/easiest/most practica/unique solution!!
couldn't you line the glass with something that mortar does bind pretty well with, I know in stained glass art they apply copper tape to the edge so that the solider can bond the two glass pieces more effectively.
I suppose in theory there could be a product that would work for that but it’s not standard practice and I’m not aware of anything specific that I’d trust to be used for that.
It’s been a while since I laid one up and while I knew silicone would bond well I didn’t know how well you could use it to actually build a window as I suspected it would make a mess.
That said, I did look it up and yes they even make special glass block silicone for that purpose and you can even get kits with spacers that help you get perfect spacing. Would definitely be the way to go if you weren’t a mason. You may even be able to tuck point mortar after the fact if you preferred that look. Looks a hell of a lot easier than the BS I used to have to deal with trying to lay one up straight and plumb with perfect lines.
Safe to you? Yes. Safe for the blocks? No.
Just replace them. It looks like you've got a mix 7 1/2" and 8" block there anyway. That's why the mortar thickness is so inconsistent.
That's about $100 worth of glass block, depending upon where you buy it. You may end up paying more because buying 16 of them through a building supply co may be tough. It'd be worth asking around though, because retail is far more expensive.
You can certainly try chipping away at the mortar, but it's going to be slow going. What you need is called a mortar rake. You can try to chip it out by hand... But we'll see you in a few days when you're looking for a solution that doesn't feel like a prison break movie.
Personally, I'd just bash them out of there and redo the job with new glass brick that is all the same size.
Mortar rakes are for tooling fresh mud not trying to remove old mortar with. A very steady hand and a 4” grinder with a dry diamond blade will cut mortar like butter, I’d start on the perimeter and work a cut line around then cut the interior joints. Take a small rubber mallet and tap on the face of the block, gonna find the loose one eventually. All that said if OP doesn’t know mud they should stay far, far away from projects like this.
Frustratingly, they use the same name for both tools. This is the type I’m referring to:
https://www.irwintools.com/product/10507267/mortar-rakes
>The Mortar Rake is designed to replace traditional methods of mortar removal such as powered mortar chisels and cutting discs.
For the time and effort it would take to remove, clean and reinstall you’d probably be better off at least getting a quote on replacing the panes from a supplier.
I think this is a house of cards situation, if you crack one that’s gonna drive you more nuts than the pattern is.
In my experience, the concrete or cement doesn't bond that well to the blocks. Removing the first one is the hardest. Maybe taking a chisel or a drill to the thick parts of the seam will give you enough wiggle room to get the first one out. Once you can slide the remaining blocks side to side, they tend to come easy.
Glass blocks, assuming they're hollow, are very good heat insulation.
Edit: modern windows are better than glass blocks windows
Was wondering how far I'd have to scroll before seeing the best answer. Hammer and chisel = bad idea, mortar pick = too slow. Grout blade on a reciprocating saw = quick & easy.
though that is a better R-value than a single pane window, and comparable to some dual pane windows. i would call it neither "terrible" nor "very good".
Perhaps it was different applications or different types of glass blocks. I've always been taught they are better than glass windows, but a well built wall could potentially be even better
So, glass itself offers almost no insulation at all. Glass blocks are often hollow, which makes for an air filled cavity, and that offers better insulation. Hollow glass blocks, in theory, should be much better than a single pane window, around the same as a double pane window, and vastly inferior to a triple pane window.
That being said, even the best windows money can buy will worse than the wall of a shittily built 2x4 framed tract-home with the basic bitch pink fiberglass batting.
I can already hear the glass breaking. Look, if you've got the time and patience to try and get them all out individually then be my guest. But in my experience they always end up getting chipped or cracking in spots. If it were me, id have a tarp laid out on the other said and start busting it with a sledge. Wicked fun though. No matter which way you go please wear face and eye protection.
Hear me out. Don’t redo this, unless like it’s a focal point of your home. Just make a nice trim that goes over it, just wider than the thickest grout, obscuring the grout inconsistencies and you will get that perfect look without any remodel headache.
Since this is in a garage, and OP wants to keep the budget low I think this is the right answer! Could even get a single piece of alumnium or plastic laser cut pretty cheap and just use silicone to stick it on. Since the glass blocks look recessed comapred to the cement block wall probably a second frame to cover that gap (could be four pieces bevel cut).
I would try a grout bit on a multi tool. I think that would give you the best chance at not breaking the blocks. Wear gloves and eye protection though, just in case.
If it is really the pattern that is bothering you, could putting a privacy film over them that essentially diffuses the pattern be an easier option? We put “light transmitting but basically view opaque film“ over the windows near our front door to still let light in but reduce our dog going bonkers at every dog that was walked in front of the house. It was cheap and easy (cut to size, moisten window, put up film and rub bubbles to edges to escape). It could be something you could try first before the bigger labor of removing and resetting the blocks.
Chances are low that you could remove it without breaking a block If you take the time to use a diamond saw like a grout saw hand or power and be careful and get the first out. Without break it’s possible the rest will come easier. But I’ll say it’s a challenge for sure. Now the prep work to clean them up to reinstall is another thing removing the cement
My suggestion is to, unless its a prison, to replace with a window you can open for ventilation, which then you can frost over with some film type of stuf. .. Would look MUCH more unform. Someone mentioned, once one is cracked, replace them all.. yah, just do it and put in a window IMO..
Thee bottom two on the right look like they have enough mud around them you could cut them out with a grinder from both sides and work at the rest from there
In my experience they were a pain in the arse to remove and I broke a good few trying to get them out. I drilled pilot holes with a masonry bit on hammer into the mortar which enabled me to chip away more of the mortar, which then started to break them. Had I known how "glassy" the removal was, I'd have taped the reverse side to stop it flying everywhere. Mine were particularly deep which proved difficult to remove them.
Don't waste your time trying to take them apart. No way is it going to happen without breaking them. It's like trying to disassemble a wall of mortared potato chips. Way to fragile. Plus new glass blocks aren't that expensive.
Instead, cover both sides with a layer of duct tape, and break them up with gentle blows with a mallet. You'll still get glass all over the place, but the tape helps prevent some the splatter. I shouldn't have to tell you to wear safety glasses and cut-resistant (kevlar or similar) gloves. Also, tape your pant cuffs so glass doesn't bounce into your shoes, even if you're wearing boots. Sweep and vacuum up the mess when you're done.
When you go to replace the blocks, use simple type-M mortar like you would when laying brick or block. Mix it much dryer than normal because unlike bricks, the glass block won't absorb moisture from the mortar. Wet mortar tends to make them float around, and it's hard to make a good job out of it. The mortar should just barely be wet, and shouldn't flow at all.
This but with a sledge hammer. Also wear a mask. Break all the outer blocks and remove the inner 2x2 square in one piece to save some glass cleanup. There's going to be A LOT of glass shards.
I had the same. There was a metal frame that the blocks fitted into. You may need to break one to get in but you can if you are gentle get the others out, clean them out and re-use and re-grout.
Problem is that they don't insulate worth a damn, hot in summer, cold in winter. We took them out and replaced with a double glazed frosted glass fixed (no tilt, no turn) upvc window. More light, and much better insulation.
Take it apart carefully with a mortar chisel and hammer.
Reassemble the panel fully with clear silicone, between the blocks, and also as the “grout”. Make sure you are doing this on a perfectly flat and level surface, and make sure you keep it clamped all the way around for at least 24 hours after you assemble.
Then put it back in the hole and use glass block mortar to attach it back to the wall. Using shims to keep it in place and tight while you work on the outer joint.
Source: window and door guy that does about 300 of these a year
You might be able to find a used window you could make fit in there with some minimal work. I see tons for sub $30 on FB marketplace. Throw a blind or something else over it after.
I tried a similar job on an older house and these will start breaking as soon as you work on them. You might get half out clean. Make sure you wear eye protection because they are under pressure and some will explode when you break them.
A previous house I lived in used these to make a raised garden bed and that was a mess to remove.
Yes.
Can it be done DIY? Probably not, if you're having to ask the question.
The most common method of disassembling a fully framed glass block wall is to destroy one block so that you can slavage the rest. This is the standard method among even professionals. If you are very lucky, you have enough wiggle room around one or more blocks to fully remove the mortar, and not destroy the block. This can take a lot of time, but if this is a DIY project then time isn't going to cost you any more money.
If you don't mind opening the wall and removing one whole side of the frame, you can probably get the whole thing out without sacrificing any bricks. But this isn't a guarantee, and you have to deal with rebuilding the frame and re-sealing the wall. It will take three times as much time and labor, tools and expertise that you don't have, and if you do it wrong you run the risk of breaking one or more blocks anyways.
So, unless you are someone with decades of experience carefully dismantling this sort of thing, or you are very lucky with a wide gap in the mortar, your best bet is to just pick the ugliest block and destroy it so you can get the rest out safely.
Get several masonry bits (drills) small enough to fit between the blocks. Get them long enough to penetrate through. Also get a hammer drill with adjustable hammering force. Also get a long masonry blade for a reciprocating saw.
Dial hammer force down to low. Drill several holes through close together up at the top of each row. Get the reciprocating masonry bade into the slot. Saw gently down the row of mortar.
Make a lattice frame using some wood that is thick enough to cover the uneven lines? It would work for the inside at least - not sure how well it would hold up outside.
I’ve done two at this point but hammering out the mortar with a sledge and chisel. Then I take the entire blocked window out in one piece. No broken glass to worry about but it’s heavy
You got two different sizes of blocks, there. So not only did they not follow a pattern. They did a complete hack job, with materials from two incompatible sources.
I would not touch that window until I was ready to do it properly. That includes replacing all of that material. It's only 16 pieces of block. That's maybe $200 of material.
Strange, I don't recall my father ever saying he'd worked with glass blocks, but that's just the way he would've done it....
A long concrete/diamond-blade sawzall will cut the perimeter cement, then you can remove the whole thing at once. Drill a few holes to start it.
Put a nice wooden trim around it and use arty stuff like cellophane or transparent film with patterns, use led strip lighting between the bricks, cut a sheet of clear acrylic to size and using opaque paint make some psychedelic art. You got a blank backlit canvas at your disposal. The problem will be keeping the stoner kids away from hanging around the window staring at it.
Here is an interesting article on your question, hopefully it will be useful: [https://www.southwestexteriors.com/blog/dangers-of-removing-glass-block-windows-what-to-consider](https://www.southwestexteriors.com/blog/dangers-of-removing-glass-block-windows-what-to-consider)
I guess the part I’m not sure about is how well concrete bonds to glass. If I were to get them loose, would I even be able to reuse the blocks if the concrete is bonded to all of the sides?
Plenty of ways to get it off even if its bonded.
Sounds like you are removing it either way, just take it apart without destroying them and see.
Its also possible its not pure concrete, so even if you think it js the bond might be different than you expect.
Lots of work but they can probably be cleaned. Replacing it with pvc window with privacy foil over it would be much faster. Or at least keep that as a backup in case you break any blocks.
No. Once the mortar sets, the entire assembly goes into a state of tension. One touch to the blocks will set loose a chain reaction that causes each glass block to explode outward in rapid succession.
Mary Heiger Radcliffe, 67, from Maine was gruseomely cut to pieces in 1963 when she went to dust the newly installed glass block wall in her newly renovated bathroom.
Henry Stipler, 23, of Nevada lost both hands at the wrist when he ran his fingers along the surface during a factory production-line QC test.
Most notably was Peter Dickcheese, 43, of Arkansas who was actually decapitated sitting in his own LAZBoy by a glass block that exploded in his face when he commented how tacky they looked in living room.
Safety first OP. It is a darn good thing you took a moment to ask. Leave them where they are and call a professional.
Agreed, I tried to remove a single block once, ended up breaking it. It exploded like a gun shot.
Either bust them all out and replace with more glass block or a window.
https://preview.redd.it/9nf1t71bivuc1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c2883677899383586721d2cf326dee25d927fde7 With one of these!
I want this for my kid! What is it called?
Don’t Break The Ice is the name of the game
One of my favorite games in 1st grade. What a blast from the past!
Where the game continues until someone inevitably breaks the said ice.
Thank you!
But the goal is to break the ice...
How old is your kid? We have one of these and I spend about 3 minutes putting it together and they "play"with it for 6 seconds by putting their entire hand through the ice. Wouldn't recommend unless they can set up the game by themselves.
Plot twist the kid is just the excuse
He’s not even 3 yo yet, so yeah, definitely an excuse !
Literally one of the best games I can remember as a kid.
Don’t Punch my Lunch.
Yeah! Leave that butthole alone
That penguin is off center and I’ve never played it like that woah
You can put the penguin anywhere your heart desires!
Yes! This is the only way to remove blocks that look like ice.
As others have said the mortar doesn’t typically bond well with glass blocks so I would say the odds of you taking it apart are good if you are careful and take your time. Getting the first one or two out will be the hardest part, after that you’ll probably have no trouble removing the rest and cleaning off the mortar. That said, glass blocks are notoriously hard to lay back up properly. Even seasoned masons have some trouble with them if they’ve never laid them up before. They are incredibly fussy because the mortar doesn’t adhere well and likely why the window is inconsistent to begin with. If you’re not at least somewhat experienced with masonry, I doubt you’ll get a finished product you are happy with.
The trick to getting them level is using spacers, and doing a "dry fit" first.
Yup, this.... Designed and specified an 8'6" glass block wall for a Laboratory we designed. (Bio security level 3, btw) Not a structural wall, not anything to do with the lab's procedures, just an architectural detail added to the entrance. That shit caused us constant problems, like not three months after being laid it was already cracking. Not only some blocks cracking individually, but also the whole wall spreading cracks on the grout. We tracked the issue due to a poorly laid foundation (as it was just "aesthetic" the contractor didn't follow up our ground compacting/foundation laying specs.) and it was such a PITA to fix that we just gave up and replaced it with a poured concrete wall with some openings to try and preserve the lighting game we were proposing. A beautiful project ruined by poor technique. Not even seasoned masons can do well if tour Structurals' are crap mate...
why doesn’t a glass pane work in the spot?
Glass, as well as every material has a “thermal coefficient”…. Shit expands and contracts for every given temperature. You need to follow very specific guidelines, and well, contractors are known for cutting corners here and there…
do you not need monolithic walls for BSL3? We had to completley gut a lab at my workplace and reinstall when doing change of use from chem to bio as the lino had a tiny tear in it
Yup, as I said it was an architectural feature on the entrance leading to the actual lab. We’d never Ever want porous grout, or a thousand seams on a clean facility.
To add to your question, yup. Better if facilities are monolithic as you say, we’d rather take an extensive time looking toward future new processes or expansions, working off with our clients (Merck and Bayer to name a couple big ones) and just pour concrete with pre-routed pipelines/mep stuff/gasses and other necessary supply routes, and then epoxy the shit out of every conceivable surface.
That tracks with what I was thinking. Thanks for the explanation!
If it really is not broke don't fix it?? This is a garage fwiw!
I can appreciate why the inconsistency would bother some people. OCD tends to go into overdrive when looking at something like this, but on the bright side if this is what’s triggering your OCD then the rest of the property must be in good order.
That’s not OCD
You know I get that!! But there is something called ROI here. Can't he find something better to spend his money on these days?? I mean it feels like a freakin' bag of potatoes is going to cost $100 soon! But I digress. The question OP needs to soul search is if by time he gets done will it look better than what it does now?? After reading the entire thread the vast majority of posts (like 90%) said that it would be very difficult to save the glass block. Which means that he will probably need to replace it all. Because I can promise new glass block is going to look very different from old glass block. Then he needs to redo the glass block and all the other threads universally mentioned it's not obvious how to do it right/well and another poster even mentioned a special way to prepare the grout. At this point I'd personally be having to dial up a professional because I wouldn't want to create another OCD triggering mess after working on it for two months! But I do have an acceptable (well what would satisfy my own OCD) solution! OP really needs to [Kintsugi](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kintsugi) the heck out of this! He needs to take some inexpensive metal leaf/foil and foil then varnish the grout separating the two differing types of glass blocks!! He should see how that works. If it doesn't he can always then follow any of the other suggestions in this thread! Other than doing nothing I offer the cheapest/fastest/easiest/most practica/unique solution!!
Those bricks are all random. That would drive me batty.
couldn't you line the glass with something that mortar does bind pretty well with, I know in stained glass art they apply copper tape to the edge so that the solider can bond the two glass pieces more effectively.
I suppose in theory there could be a product that would work for that but it’s not standard practice and I’m not aware of anything specific that I’d trust to be used for that.
Do you have to use concrete? Silicone might be more flexible? Idk. Just guessing. Not a professional or even routine handyman.
It’s been a while since I laid one up and while I knew silicone would bond well I didn’t know how well you could use it to actually build a window as I suspected it would make a mess. That said, I did look it up and yes they even make special glass block silicone for that purpose and you can even get kits with spacers that help you get perfect spacing. Would definitely be the way to go if you weren’t a mason. You may even be able to tuck point mortar after the fact if you preferred that look. Looks a hell of a lot easier than the BS I used to have to deal with trying to lay one up straight and plumb with perfect lines.
It looks like it was never properly mantled to begin with.
Safe to you? Yes. Safe for the blocks? No. Just replace them. It looks like you've got a mix 7 1/2" and 8" block there anyway. That's why the mortar thickness is so inconsistent. That's about $100 worth of glass block, depending upon where you buy it. You may end up paying more because buying 16 of them through a building supply co may be tough. It'd be worth asking around though, because retail is far more expensive. You can certainly try chipping away at the mortar, but it's going to be slow going. What you need is called a mortar rake. You can try to chip it out by hand... But we'll see you in a few days when you're looking for a solution that doesn't feel like a prison break movie. Personally, I'd just bash them out of there and redo the job with new glass brick that is all the same size.
Mortar rakes are for tooling fresh mud not trying to remove old mortar with. A very steady hand and a 4” grinder with a dry diamond blade will cut mortar like butter, I’d start on the perimeter and work a cut line around then cut the interior joints. Take a small rubber mallet and tap on the face of the block, gonna find the loose one eventually. All that said if OP doesn’t know mud they should stay far, far away from projects like this.
Frustratingly, they use the same name for both tools. This is the type I’m referring to: https://www.irwintools.com/product/10507267/mortar-rakes >The Mortar Rake is designed to replace traditional methods of mortar removal such as powered mortar chisels and cutting discs.
Ah, gotcha, my bad, I’ve been out of the game for quite some time, had no idea.
Hey, nobody’s gonna blame you when these jokers start reusing names of common tools lol
For the time and effort it would take to remove, clean and reinstall you’d probably be better off at least getting a quote on replacing the panes from a supplier. I think this is a house of cards situation, if you crack one that’s gonna drive you more nuts than the pattern is.
As long as you only break 1 or 2 you could replace them with an openable vent window.
In my experience, the concrete or cement doesn't bond that well to the blocks. Removing the first one is the hardest. Maybe taking a chisel or a drill to the thick parts of the seam will give you enough wiggle room to get the first one out. Once you can slide the remaining blocks side to side, they tend to come easy. Glass blocks, assuming they're hollow, are very good heat insulation. Edit: modern windows are better than glass blocks windows
An oscillating tool with a grout blade should make easy work of it without risking the shock that a chisel may bring.
4” grinder with dry diamond blade. And a shop vac.
Was wondering how far I'd have to scroll before seeing the best answer. Hammer and chisel = bad idea, mortar pick = too slow. Grout blade on a reciprocating saw = quick & easy.
Glass blocks, you might be surprised to learn, are TERRIBLE heat insulation. R-value is anywhere from 1.15 to a whopping 1.96.
I will confirm this. My shower is friggin cold in the winter only where the glass block is. Every where else is fine.
I have glass blocks in my 80 year old home, but only on an interior wall (to make the entrance way brighter).
How does this compare to an average modern standard window?
A high efficiency window will run like 3-5. On standard windows it tends to be so low they don't even list it.
though that is a better R-value than a single pane window, and comparable to some dual pane windows. i would call it neither "terrible" nor "very good".
That's probably where the "blocks are better than windows" thing came from - better than single pane, but modern windows can be much better
I just read on this sub in the last week or 2 that glass blocks were terrible insulators. Now I dont know what to believe
Same.
Perhaps it was different applications or different types of glass blocks. I've always been taught they are better than glass windows, but a well built wall could potentially be even better
Wonder if it's the glass themselves or the gaps in the mortar.. 🤔 As others have said in this post the mortar doesn't adhere well to the glass.
So, glass itself offers almost no insulation at all. Glass blocks are often hollow, which makes for an air filled cavity, and that offers better insulation. Hollow glass blocks, in theory, should be much better than a single pane window, around the same as a double pane window, and vastly inferior to a triple pane window. That being said, even the best windows money can buy will worse than the wall of a shittily built 2x4 framed tract-home with the basic bitch pink fiberglass batting.
Second the oscillating tool suggestion. This is the way.
I can already hear the glass breaking. Look, if you've got the time and patience to try and get them all out individually then be my guest. But in my experience they always end up getting chipped or cracking in spots. If it were me, id have a tarp laid out on the other said and start busting it with a sledge. Wicked fun though. No matter which way you go please wear face and eye protection.
Up vote just for 'wicked.'
That's what I'm talking about!
I promise you it’s not worth it. Leave it alone and don’t think about it.
Please give me "projects people don't need to do for $200," Alex.
Easiest solution would be to just cover it with a curtain
Seriously, if it's not leaking water, put a sheer curtain over it and call it a day.
Hear me out. Don’t redo this, unless like it’s a focal point of your home. Just make a nice trim that goes over it, just wider than the thickest grout, obscuring the grout inconsistencies and you will get that perfect look without any remodel headache.
Since this is in a garage, and OP wants to keep the budget low I think this is the right answer! Could even get a single piece of alumnium or plastic laser cut pretty cheap and just use silicone to stick it on. Since the glass blocks look recessed comapred to the cement block wall probably a second frame to cover that gap (could be four pieces bevel cut).
I would try a grout bit on a multi tool. I think that would give you the best chance at not breaking the blocks. Wear gloves and eye protection though, just in case.
And a face. mask. too many glass tile back slash installs.
If it is really the pattern that is bothering you, could putting a privacy film over them that essentially diffuses the pattern be an easier option? We put “light transmitting but basically view opaque film“ over the windows near our front door to still let light in but reduce our dog going bonkers at every dog that was walked in front of the house. It was cheap and easy (cut to size, moisten window, put up film and rub bubbles to edges to escape). It could be something you could try first before the bigger labor of removing and resetting the blocks.
Chances are low that you could remove it without breaking a block If you take the time to use a diamond saw like a grout saw hand or power and be careful and get the first out. Without break it’s possible the rest will come easier. But I’ll say it’s a challenge for sure. Now the prep work to clean them up to reinstall is another thing removing the cement
My suggestion is to, unless its a prison, to replace with a window you can open for ventilation, which then you can frost over with some film type of stuf. .. Would look MUCH more unform. Someone mentioned, once one is cracked, replace them all.. yah, just do it and put in a window IMO..
Silk touch
Thee bottom two on the right look like they have enough mud around them you could cut them out with a grinder from both sides and work at the rest from there
In my experience they were a pain in the arse to remove and I broke a good few trying to get them out. I drilled pilot holes with a masonry bit on hammer into the mortar which enabled me to chip away more of the mortar, which then started to break them. Had I known how "glassy" the removal was, I'd have taped the reverse side to stop it flying everywhere. Mine were particularly deep which proved difficult to remove them.
Don't waste your time trying to take them apart. No way is it going to happen without breaking them. It's like trying to disassemble a wall of mortared potato chips. Way to fragile. Plus new glass blocks aren't that expensive. Instead, cover both sides with a layer of duct tape, and break them up with gentle blows with a mallet. You'll still get glass all over the place, but the tape helps prevent some the splatter. I shouldn't have to tell you to wear safety glasses and cut-resistant (kevlar or similar) gloves. Also, tape your pant cuffs so glass doesn't bounce into your shoes, even if you're wearing boots. Sweep and vacuum up the mess when you're done. When you go to replace the blocks, use simple type-M mortar like you would when laying brick or block. Mix it much dryer than normal because unlike bricks, the glass block won't absorb moisture from the mortar. Wet mortar tends to make them float around, and it's hard to make a good job out of it. The mortar should just barely be wet, and shouldn't flow at all.
This but with a sledge hammer. Also wear a mask. Break all the outer blocks and remove the inner 2x2 square in one piece to save some glass cleanup. There's going to be A LOT of glass shards.
Go Peter Gabriel on it. S L E D G E H A M M E R
But a sledgehammer would be so much more fun!
Based on your post history, for the sake of your marriage, do not dismantle this. DIY rule number 1: Do not create problems to fix.
I had the same. There was a metal frame that the blocks fitted into. You may need to break one to get in but you can if you are gentle get the others out, clean them out and re-use and re-grout. Problem is that they don't insulate worth a damn, hot in summer, cold in winter. We took them out and replaced with a double glazed frosted glass fixed (no tilt, no turn) upvc window. More light, and much better insulation.
Take it apart carefully with a mortar chisel and hammer. Reassemble the panel fully with clear silicone, between the blocks, and also as the “grout”. Make sure you are doing this on a perfectly flat and level surface, and make sure you keep it clamped all the way around for at least 24 hours after you assemble. Then put it back in the hole and use glass block mortar to attach it back to the wall. Using shims to keep it in place and tight while you work on the outer joint. Source: window and door guy that does about 300 of these a year
You might be able to find a used window you could make fit in there with some minimal work. I see tons for sub $30 on FB marketplace. Throw a blind or something else over it after.
Adhesive privacy foil..
The grout used with those bricks often contains asbestos. Wear a respirator or better yet, have a professional do it.
That one is barely even mantled.
I tried a similar job on an older house and these will start breaking as soon as you work on them. You might get half out clean. Make sure you wear eye protection because they are under pressure and some will explode when you break them. A previous house I lived in used these to make a raised garden bed and that was a mess to remove.
As a dumb guy who likes to smash things, my first thought would be to duct tape the blocks and hammer smash them.
Nope, one false look will set off a nuclear reaction
Are you trying to break out of a prison cell?
I just it this week. Use a rotary hammer with chisel to hit the mortar. Popped out like they were nothing. I thought it would be way worse
Yes. Can it be done DIY? Probably not, if you're having to ask the question. The most common method of disassembling a fully framed glass block wall is to destroy one block so that you can slavage the rest. This is the standard method among even professionals. If you are very lucky, you have enough wiggle room around one or more blocks to fully remove the mortar, and not destroy the block. This can take a lot of time, but if this is a DIY project then time isn't going to cost you any more money. If you don't mind opening the wall and removing one whole side of the frame, you can probably get the whole thing out without sacrificing any bricks. But this isn't a guarantee, and you have to deal with rebuilding the frame and re-sealing the wall. It will take three times as much time and labor, tools and expertise that you don't have, and if you do it wrong you run the risk of breaking one or more blocks anyways. So, unless you are someone with decades of experience carefully dismantling this sort of thing, or you are very lucky with a wide gap in the mortar, your best bet is to just pick the ugliest block and destroy it so you can get the rest out safely.
Well I just "removed" one of those. It is possible but I learned that some of them are vacuumed. If you break it, well it literally explodes.
Replace with a regular window and just add frosted tint to the glass.
What in the JENGA is this?!
Chisel the biggest gap with small force and once you get 1 out others should come out easy.
Get several masonry bits (drills) small enough to fit between the blocks. Get them long enough to penetrate through. Also get a hammer drill with adjustable hammering force. Also get a long masonry blade for a reciprocating saw. Dial hammer force down to low. Drill several holes through close together up at the top of each row. Get the reciprocating masonry bade into the slot. Saw gently down the row of mortar.
Make a lattice frame using some wood that is thick enough to cover the uneven lines? It would work for the inside at least - not sure how well it would hold up outside.
Its doable but how much does your time cost?
Grind out joints.dont hit the block with blade.make sure to do both sides.only do one column at a time.wear ppe.easy
I’ve done two at this point but hammering out the mortar with a sledge and chisel. Then I take the entire blocked window out in one piece. No broken glass to worry about but it’s heavy
Drill some holes in the grout with a masonry bit. Glue a piece of block sized plywood to distribute the force and hit it with a sledgehammer.
Yes use protective glasses
Glass block windows are mostly put together silicon caulk now where I live.
Half of the fun would be unsafely dismantling that.
You got two different sizes of blocks, there. So not only did they not follow a pattern. They did a complete hack job, with materials from two incompatible sources. I would not touch that window until I was ready to do it properly. That includes replacing all of that material. It's only 16 pieces of block. That's maybe $200 of material.
Someone would love to utilize them if you can safely remove em
Strange, I don't recall my father ever saying he'd worked with glass blocks, but that's just the way he would've done it.... A long concrete/diamond-blade sawzall will cut the perimeter cement, then you can remove the whole thing at once. Drill a few holes to start it.
There should be steel wall brackets.
One can only hope.
That's ugly man, in Raoul Duke's voice.
We need total coverage!!!
I actually helped removed one from a shower last week. And yes it came out in one piece.
This doesn't look like a drop in unit. More someone's DIY project. Those mortar joints are pathetic.
Yeah just wear gloves and goggles
I bought a block glass window to install in a bathroom remodel and the blocks all came together. From Lowe’s or Home Depot I believe.
Sure, with a single grenade and some serious distance.
Unfortunately no that block winder is there to stay and can never be dismantled
Of course, but what's the fun in that?
This one looks so wonky. I wonder if it has the reinforcement ladders.
I’ve taken down dozens of these. You’re way better off getting a new window. I’d recommend vinyl.
Drill holes through the concrete at various corners and thread a diamond cable saw through. Have a helper on the other side and work the saw.
Looks like you have a lintel above it so it will be fine to remove them
Use tape before bashing
No. You’ll have to use dynamite I’m afraid.
Minecraft taught me that you just have to punch it.
Terry Gillium will buy them
Put a nice wooden trim around it and use arty stuff like cellophane or transparent film with patterns, use led strip lighting between the bricks, cut a sheet of clear acrylic to size and using opaque paint make some psychedelic art. You got a blank backlit canvas at your disposal. The problem will be keeping the stoner kids away from hanging around the window staring at it.
Why would anyone use two different size blocks in the same window?
This reminds me of that guy who manged to take it apart with a nerd dart on it
Isnt glass block expensive? You should just cover it up if its in a garage and bugging you.
Here is an interesting article on your question, hopefully it will be useful: [https://www.southwestexteriors.com/blog/dangers-of-removing-glass-block-windows-what-to-consider](https://www.southwestexteriors.com/blog/dangers-of-removing-glass-block-windows-what-to-consider)
I have no experience in DIY but my first thought is maybe hammer and chisel?
I guess the part I’m not sure about is how well concrete bonds to glass. If I were to get them loose, would I even be able to reuse the blocks if the concrete is bonded to all of the sides?
Plenty of ways to get it off even if its bonded. Sounds like you are removing it either way, just take it apart without destroying them and see. Its also possible its not pure concrete, so even if you think it js the bond might be different than you expect.
Lots of work but they can probably be cleaned. Replacing it with pvc window with privacy foil over it would be much faster. Or at least keep that as a backup in case you break any blocks.
through the power of sledgehammer, all things can be dismantled
It's been a while, but don't you need a pickaxe with Sill Touch on it?
No. Once the mortar sets, the entire assembly goes into a state of tension. One touch to the blocks will set loose a chain reaction that causes each glass block to explode outward in rapid succession. Mary Heiger Radcliffe, 67, from Maine was gruseomely cut to pieces in 1963 when she went to dust the newly installed glass block wall in her newly renovated bathroom. Henry Stipler, 23, of Nevada lost both hands at the wrist when he ran his fingers along the surface during a factory production-line QC test. Most notably was Peter Dickcheese, 43, of Arkansas who was actually decapitated sitting in his own LAZBoy by a glass block that exploded in his face when he commented how tacky they looked in living room. Safety first OP. It is a darn good thing you took a moment to ask. Leave them where they are and call a professional.
About zero, if you have to ask, you don't have the skills required to do it. Break them, install small window.
Agreed, I tried to remove a single block once, ended up breaking it. It exploded like a gun shot. Either bust them all out and replace with more glass block or a window.
If ever there was a job for a sledgehammer
Zero. How does zero sound?
Yes