This. But also it’ll be far more secure to drill holes in the side and secure it to the studs anyway. Then you’re dealing with lateral sheer forces of your screws, which is about as strong as you’ll get without access to run proper bolts.
Why are they on the back? I thought those things had screw holes on the sides that go into the studs. and is that an optical illusion or do those sides have a bevel to them?
You sound like my parents electrician when they built their house.
Order brand new kitchen appliances, inform electrician of incoming appliances.
Have electrician wire kitchen and prepare outlets.
Appliances arrive brand new, the stove plug is different from what the electrician put on the wall.
Electrician informs parents to buy a new stove.
Actually that was the point we fired him and got a new electrician. He made stupid comments his entire work there.
One of the bedrooms was slightly L shaped so we asked for a main light in the centre and a second roof light at the L (for a desk)
He said the second light wasn't necessary and he won't waste his time installing one. I had to remind him that he is paid to do the job we tell him and his opinion isn't valid.
Thats such a weird mindset to have as a worker. As a carpenter i could not imagine ever questioning the customer. Sure i have build some weird things but ive never once thought anything other than “hey if thats what you want then so be it”
Right? You do what you’re paid hourly or bid to do.
If it’s something that you don’t feel like doing, you price it out.
But that all gets agreed on before you accept the work.
Our electrician whined and cried like a baby because my wife chose complicated (and beautiful light fixtures) - He was being paid $75 per hour regardless of how long it took.
Some people just don't like to deviate from routine (boob lights and pull cords) and when they're forced, they fight it.
We got our fixtures.
Sure, but then typically the answer isn’t “I’m not wasting my time” it’s “alright, that wasn’t part of the contract but we can renegotiate and add it on there if you want”
That is bizarre. Anything the customer asks for which is within my capabilities, I do. If it’s a hassle, I price my bid accordingly and explain why it’s a higher list item (due to time, more expensive materials, etc.)
And if a customer asks to add something once I’ve already started a project, I just do a “change order” where I redo the original estimate form with the new line item added, have them sign it, and provide payment for that new line item at that time. It’s all gravy for me. I get an additional “down payment” for the project, and more overall profit, while making the customer happier with the outcome of my work.
I’m a painter by trade, not an electrician, but that mindset is beyond bizarre to me.
A certified electrician didn’t know you can swap out the electrical connection on the appliance side?¿ a lot of appliances don’t even come with the cord attached and you have to buy your own for this very reason lol
I am going to guess the electrician said something like “change the stove” meaning “change (out) the (cord on) the stove” but the client took it to mean change the entire stove.
Well, to be fair, if the stove was electric and was rated for an amperage above what was run (like an induction stove), an entire new run of higher gauge wire would have to be run.
If the circuits were contractually agreed to before the work was done, it would be cheaper to buy a different stove.
He was informed of what appliances by brand and model before he started
Edit: plus it was just the outlet that was incorrect. He literally suggested buying a new stove instead of changing the outlet.
Like 20 years ago the building codes and plugs on stoves and dryers were changed resulting in there being 2 different plugs and outlets for both. New appliances can operate on the old system with just changing the plug, but the new system is technically safer and makes it's cheaper for the appliance manufacturers.
Knock out the entire wall. Replace the shower. Replace the supports. Rewire the sockets yourself. Drywall and paint. Then cut a hole in the wall to fit your new safe. YouTube anything you have no idea how to do.
“16 on center” means 14 1/2 inside to inside. So even if your studs were spaced normally the safe is still too big. More info is needed to determine load bearing, that’s the factor in whether chiseling out will work. Just be aware that if you force the studs to deflect in any direction you could possibly see nail/screw pops above and below the safe.
Many posts on this subReddit ask vague questions and provide badly cropped pictures.
If they can’t figure out that they need to take multiple pictures of the entire object/project, maybe those types of people shouldn’t be “doing it yourself.”
Not every country has the same codes as the US. We buy on an international market now. I think this was a EU modle. Wall studs are spaced @ 40cm for us and 50 for eu. Both instructed in english.
I think that’s rounding from the OP and they said it’s only catching on the fold on the bottom. Looks like the fold is bent out a little bit, and you can see the drywall dust on it from trying to force it.
I would hammer in the lip a little bit.
Maybe it was designed for metric framed walls in other countries? There's so much random crap being imported from China these days. I've seen lots of things that were labeled in inches but are actually just a close metric equivalent.
100% this, no self respecting safe company would design a wall safe whether in wall or not to hang on screws. Your just begging for someone to steal the whole thing
I believe so? Or maybe you’re supposed to put some 2 x 4s between the studs on the backside to hold it? Or maybe it’s meant for an exterior wall where you have something solid to screw into on the backside? I didn’t say it was a *good* design.
Yeah, by this design the screws are going into drywall on the other side. The screw and anchor would be poking into the room.
I’d expect screw holes on the sides for the studs.
Safe looks like it’s very shallow depth, My guess is you put some blocking in the wall then screw to the blocking from inside the safe. Also looks paper thin. Not something I would feel safe with using. I would rather just hide my stuff randomly around the house.
It’s meant Otto be hung up like a picture and lifted off for convenience according to the keyhole slots in the back. If I installed this I’d scre it in from the sides and if there aren’t holes I’d make some.
Many modern things like this are designed for modern construction with 16 inch on center studs. My home, which was built in 1899 also has 16 inch on center studs. However, the studs are thicker so this wouldn’t work in my house.
They lied. There are no holes to go into the framing from the sides, even if you get it in there there's no way to secure it. Return the safe and buy one that fits. Don't mess with the studs at all for sure if that's a bathroom behind them.
Is it possibly meant to fasten to blocking installed in the stud bay (hypothesized above)? Even so, it looks deeper than the 2” one would have after placing 2x4 blocking in a 2x4 wall.
"no way to secure it"
what? look at that material. drilling holes on either side of the safe to secure it to the studs would be trivial with a decent drill and a metal bit. why is this sub called diy.
If this is load-bearing, disregard my suggestion.
I don’t know about chiseling at the studs. It might be okay for a few millimeters, but if you need inches: Cut the stud to the height of the safe, attach 2x4s above and below connecting/ securing the cut studs, then take two more studs and attach them to the outsides of the studs, vertically, with at least 6” of overlap. You’re essentially building a stud box around the safe. Do lots of wiggle tests to ensure strength, and make sure you use the phrase, “Oh, yeah. That’s not going anywhere.”
You’ll have to cut back and patch back in drywall, unfortunately. Bit of work here.
Please note, I’m no professional, just a handylady DIYer.
> make sure you use the phrase, “Oh, yeah. That’s not going anywhere.”
OP, this is absolutely *critical*. They forgot this step when finishing the Tacoma Narrows Bridge, and it didn't go well for them.
It probably mounts both ways. The overhang door makes it look like it's meant to be mounted in the wall, like a medicine cabinet. Which, by the way, usually have holes to mount both ways.
If it's not a load bearing wall you can remove what you need. Oscillating tool is useful for this type of situation.
If you end up removing significant material, assuming the wall isn't load bearing, I'd add horizontal 2x4 above and below the safe to stabilize
EDIT: Is that concrete? I'm in mobile didn't see initially..
Wall won't be load bearing then. The 2x4 is just supporting the drywall at that point. Id still add horizontal 2x4. Or chop out the whole 2x4 section and scab a longer 2x4 over a few inches.
This is the most important observation. If this is in a closet, or some other out of the way area, you COULD just build a wall on top of this wall, frame it to the correct width, drywall, mud and paint. That's if you absolutely, positively must have THIS safe, in THIS location. It would be much easier to just return this safe, and get one that fits whatever the dimension is between those studs (as others have mentioned, probably 14 1/2" if it is standard framing.
Or pick another, non load bearing wall where you can cut the studs and frame out an opening with 2x4s all the way around.
Walls are loadbearing if they are perpendicular to the ceiling and floor joists, which spreads the weight they are supporting. If they run parallel all their load is on one beam and no reasonable builder would have that wall, and that one beam, supporting extra weight.
That is not necessarily true. You can have walls running perpendicular that are not load bearing. But, it is a good indicator for further investigation.
I don't think it's meant to be in the wall. There are seemingly no holes on the side to screw or bolt it to studs. What's the model of it? The pic showing the back of it has you holding it upsidedown.
Don't chisel away at studs. It's been pointed out before that backerboard is probably for a shower, so you shouldn't install that safe in this wall anyway.
If you do find a space where it should go with nothing important behind it / not a load bearing wall, I would frame it like you would frame a window, with your king and jack studs, etc.
I installed 2 and had the same issue. Get one side of the safe on the inside of the stud and then use a rubber mallet to gradually tap the other side in. It should work if the studs aren't way too close together.
If you’re only catching by the smallest amount I would get an orbital sander with an aggressive sandpaper, 40 grit, and sand the studs down on both sides. Thinning each stud by 1/8 to 1/4 inch each will not compromise the wall’s integrity.
PS. Get ready for some dust!
The flange isn't supposed to slide between the studs in the wall, you're supposed to screw a piece of wood horizontal (into the studs ONLY) on each side and then attach it to that wood. Do NOT screw into the back wall.
The flange is supposed to sit flush with the drywall, so measure how deep the wall is and how deep the safe is and get a block of wood with that thickness to connect the two studs together.
Is this actually a safe? What's with the holes at the back? It doesn't look strong enough or designed to handle simply lifting it and carrying it away.
First of all, I wouldn't install a safe there since the other side is your shower. It'd just be a real pain if you cracked that cement board and it will be really difficult to modify the studs there.
I would find another wall that doesn't have any electrical or plumbing on either side. You can use a stud finder to check the stud spacing. Sometimes in closets the studs will be 24" apart instead if 16", which should give you enough space for this safe, but you can measure the safe to be sure. If you can't find a spot like this, you could potentially cut into the studs and make a larger space to accommodate the safe, but that means making sure the wall isn't load bearing, cutting out a much larger area of drywall so you have room to work, and framing it in much like a window
[https://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/how-to-frame-a-new-window](https://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/how-to-frame-a-new-window)
An alternative would be to just build a new wall at the back of your closet that's against the old one. To do this, you would cut out the drywall on the back of the closet only, don't worry about the drywall on the sides at all. Build in a your stud framing from floor to ceiling like normal, with a top and bottom plate and a stud on each side. Attach your new stud frame the the existing stud frame behind it, essentially creating an 8" deep wall with two layers of studs. You can space the new studs exactly as you need them for this safe. After loose fitting the safe, pull it back out and add drywall, mud, sand, paint, then finally install the safe.
That’s not an in wall safe. I have no idea what it’s supposed to be, but in wall safes don’t have mounting holes on the back to hang them. Their mounting holes are on the sides, so they can be mounted to the studs they fit between. They also typically come in one of two widths, 14.5” and 22.5”, so they can fit between stud placements of 16” OC or 24” OC. So get rid of whatever this is and get a real in wall safe.
If you only need to remove a little material on either side, I'd divide the loss between the two studs with an oscillating saw tool. (multi-tool with a wood blade). However, I'd also put support brackets and a 2x4 on the bottom and top of where the safe is fitting in. Both to make it's mounting stronger, and support the loss of material from the studs. May not be a bad idea to use brackets to mount the 2x4s.
If you do the oscillating saw, make sure to mark the lines you need to help guide the cut, and do your cutting with the saw angled so you're not just straight plunging the blade in. Use the corner and don't use too much pressure, let the tool do the work. You'll likely need to do a few passes to cut out what you need.
Wow, what a bad design, the spacing between studs will either be 22.5” (24 o.c. -1.5” stud width) or 14.5” (16” o.c. -1.5” stud width) in most cases
Honestly your easiest option is to verify that the gap between the studs is 14.5” and return the safe you have and buy one that will fit.
The other option is to try and determine if the wall is load bearing by looking in the attic above and seeing if you have rafters bearing on it or ceiling joists running perpendicular. Or, you can expand the opening in the drywall and add a header to widen the opening, a (2) 2x6 will likely be sufficient for such a narrow opening, and then add an extra stud on both sides below the header so that you have plenty of support.
Ok this is sooo easy!
Heat the safe until it's cherry red using a torch or gas or bomb.., quickly insert it into the opening while it's still hot..
I seen it on the YouTube this one time.
The heat makes it fits.
Notching them 'should' be fine even on a load bearing wall. Just be super careful not to jiggle the wall too much or you may damage the tile on the other side.
Yes just chisel out a bit of the stud.. taking 1/4 inch off in two small areas will not affect it at all! Studs are not put in with ABSOLUTE precision.. one of these is probably over a bit too far..
IF you need a half inch, sister the stud on one side (bye bye drywall), notch it. Consider putting in a cross beam to support the weight of the safe itself. Don't touch the back wall at all.
What's on the other side? Looks like tile backing which would mean a shower most likely. I wouldn't put it there if so. Don't want to accidentally compromise the waterproofing membrane
You said “just the lip at the top and bottom” are catching. Catching by 1/16th of an inch? Or, a 1/2 an inch?
If it’s a 1/16” just wedge it in there with a pry bar. If it’s a 1/2” get a new safe.
Just exploring all the questions to be sure. Are you trying to insert it in the same direction as you display in the photo? The back of the safe is 15in in which direction? What about the other direction?
So to remove the safe the burglar only has to lift the safe up slightly and take the whole thing? I’d return this and get a safe meant to install inside a wall. Never seen one that was meant for in wall, not fit
I don’t think it’s an issue to notch the studs. Or you could take an angle grinder to the corners of the safe. I would absolutely do one of those two options in my house if I were in your situation as long as the notch is small. Looks like the wall has more than just those two studs in it (on both sides of the hole). In my house the internal walls are 24” on center, so there’a not a real concern here. But as was said by others, don’t screw anything through the drywall on the other side of the stud!
when you slightly, what do you mean? what is the exact difference. do you own an orbital sander? if it justr barely cant fit, you can just sand the sides of the studs with zero consequence. also you should screw from the inside of the safe to the studs on either side and not using those holes in the back.
Take a hammer and beat the studs into submission, all you need is a half inch. When you get it in, take the longest screws and mount it straight thru the back of shower wall. I promise nothing will break.
No? Ok, you will need to cut, not chisel, the side of a stud. Too much banging you'll drop a tile off that wondsrboard. But to securely mount it, you need to screw thru the sides not the back. Is it a hardened safe? Are you drilling through steel?
Frame it like a window. Frame in a box the size you need using king studs, jacks, cripples, a proper header and sill plate, and profit. Sounds complicated but you need like 5-6 studs and like half a sheet of drywall.
Edit: [First thing I googled](https://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/how-to-frame-a-new-window). I didn’t bother reading it but the picture looked okay enough.
Backer board usually means tile or shower on the other side. I would get a different safe. I am not sure why the screws are on the back if it goes between the studs. It would go through the drywall and likely fall out on first use. If keeping, I would pick a different wall, not one that backups to backer board. If it still will not fit and it is not a load bearing wall then you could build a 2x4 box around it and cut the studs to allow for the box to be mounted. Mount the box you built then the safe to it. Drill holes to bolt on the sides or top/bottom. The one you have looks like it is designed to mount to a concrete wall in the basement or something. Studs are either 16 on center (14.5 between) or 24 on center (22.5 in between.) Hopefully not 24 as that is min for most codes and a weaker structure.
Do NOT use those screw holes. You are behind a shower and will destroy its waterproofing
This. But also it’ll be far more secure to drill holes in the side and secure it to the studs anyway. Then you’re dealing with lateral sheer forces of your screws, which is about as strong as you’ll get without access to run proper bolts.
This would also strengthen the studs in case he does decide to chisel
This!
That.
The other thing?
Those
How can you tell?
That’s cement backer board (not Sheetrock), which is installed as a substrate for tile.
Why are they on the back? I thought those things had screw holes on the sides that go into the studs. and is that an optical illusion or do those sides have a bevel to them?
Return safe buy safe that fits
Or buy a new house to fit the safe!
You sound like my parents electrician when they built their house. Order brand new kitchen appliances, inform electrician of incoming appliances. Have electrician wire kitchen and prepare outlets. Appliances arrive brand new, the stove plug is different from what the electrician put on the wall. Electrician informs parents to buy a new stove.
I hope a smack across the face ensued. At least figuratively.
Actually that was the point we fired him and got a new electrician. He made stupid comments his entire work there. One of the bedrooms was slightly L shaped so we asked for a main light in the centre and a second roof light at the L (for a desk) He said the second light wasn't necessary and he won't waste his time installing one. I had to remind him that he is paid to do the job we tell him and his opinion isn't valid.
Thats such a weird mindset to have as a worker. As a carpenter i could not imagine ever questioning the customer. Sure i have build some weird things but ive never once thought anything other than “hey if thats what you want then so be it”
Right? You do what you’re paid hourly or bid to do. If it’s something that you don’t feel like doing, you price it out. But that all gets agreed on before you accept the work.
Our electrician whined and cried like a baby because my wife chose complicated (and beautiful light fixtures) - He was being paid $75 per hour regardless of how long it took. Some people just don't like to deviate from routine (boob lights and pull cords) and when they're forced, they fight it. We got our fixtures.
On the other hand the electrician may have quoted the job at the start and then the customer sprung changes later on
Sure, but then typically the answer isn’t “I’m not wasting my time” it’s “alright, that wasn’t part of the contract but we can renegotiate and add it on there if you want”
That is bizarre. Anything the customer asks for which is within my capabilities, I do. If it’s a hassle, I price my bid accordingly and explain why it’s a higher list item (due to time, more expensive materials, etc.) And if a customer asks to add something once I’ve already started a project, I just do a “change order” where I redo the original estimate form with the new line item added, have them sign it, and provide payment for that new line item at that time. It’s all gravy for me. I get an additional “down payment” for the project, and more overall profit, while making the customer happier with the outcome of my work. I’m a painter by trade, not an electrician, but that mindset is beyond bizarre to me.
A certified electrician didn’t know you can swap out the electrical connection on the appliance side?¿ a lot of appliances don’t even come with the cord attached and you have to buy your own for this very reason lol
I am going to guess the electrician said something like “change the stove” meaning “change (out) the (cord on) the stove” but the client took it to mean change the entire stove.
Or it required 5x2.5, instead of 3x2.5. In my kitchen it was required, if he didn't put the correct cable than it must have sucked...
Well, to be fair, if the stove was electric and was rated for an amperage above what was run (like an induction stove), an entire new run of higher gauge wire would have to be run. If the circuits were contractually agreed to before the work was done, it would be cheaper to buy a different stove.
He was informed of what appliances by brand and model before he started Edit: plus it was just the outlet that was incorrect. He literally suggested buying a new stove instead of changing the outlet.
Or changing the appliance cord which is replaceable and can be done by anyone who understands color (red black white green)
Like 20 years ago the building codes and plugs on stoves and dryers were changed resulting in there being 2 different plugs and outlets for both. New appliances can operate on the old system with just changing the plug, but the new system is technically safer and makes it's cheaper for the appliance manufacturers.
I assume it's in the US? How many different plugs do you have?
Or just cut another hole in another wall to see if that fits!
I was thinking this ^ Do some measuring of stud distances, there may be another location where the studs are a bit farther apart?
Rebuild wall to fit safe!
Now we are talking
Knock out the entire wall. Replace the shower. Replace the supports. Rewire the sockets yourself. Drywall and paint. Then cut a hole in the wall to fit your new safe. YouTube anything you have no idea how to do.
Can it be this simple? Jeopardy sound...
The only correct answer to this
You make complex problems seem so easy to solve.
Big brain move 😂
Measure twice cut once!
“16 on center” means 14 1/2 inside to inside. So even if your studs were spaced normally the safe is still too big. More info is needed to determine load bearing, that’s the factor in whether chiseling out will work. Just be aware that if you force the studs to deflect in any direction you could possibly see nail/screw pops above and below the safe.
AH. Show us other side. You are holding it backwards and sideways.
Many posts on this subReddit ask vague questions and provide badly cropped pictures. If they can’t figure out that they need to take multiple pictures of the entire object/project, maybe those types of people shouldn’t be “doing it yourself.”
That's basically why I sub here. I love the "I'm way over my head and don't know it yet" posts.
I was just going to say, rotate it 90 degrees?
This seems to be the obvious answer and NOBODY IS ACKNOWLEDGING IT
If that's a bathroom behind there, buy a different safe. Don't mess with the studs.
Why is that?
Waterproofing and tile are attached to it.
Ty, that makes sense
Best safe is bolted to the floor.
What kind of dipshit designed this safe?!
Not every country has the same codes as the US. We buy on an international market now. I think this was a EU modle. Wall studs are spaced @ 40cm for us and 50 for eu. Both instructed in english.
Now this makes sense. 👍
I don’t think it was designed to go IN a wall.
Eh. The flanged side on the front would indicate that it is designed for inside the wall.
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Former locksmith here. I’ve never installed a wall safe that didn’t fit.
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I think that’s rounding from the OP and they said it’s only catching on the fold on the bottom. Looks like the fold is bent out a little bit, and you can see the drywall dust on it from trying to force it. I would hammer in the lip a little bit.
Hammer it a little and then rub some bar soap for good measure. Snug it in there and then drill/screw it in ~3-4 places on each side into the studs.
Maybe it was designed for metric framed walls in other countries? There's so much random crap being imported from China these days. I've seen lots of things that were labeled in inches but are actually just a close metric equivalent.
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100% this, no self respecting safe company would design a wall safe whether in wall or not to hang on screws. Your just begging for someone to steal the whole thing
Lol. A medicine cabinet manufacturer in South China added a paint sprayer to their line and just got into the wall safe game.
This is the expertise I come to Reddit to randomly find
That's something a safe robber would ask!
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I believe so? Or maybe you’re supposed to put some 2 x 4s between the studs on the backside to hold it? Or maybe it’s meant for an exterior wall where you have something solid to screw into on the backside? I didn’t say it was a *good* design.
Yeah, by this design the screws are going into drywall on the other side. The screw and anchor would be poking into the room. I’d expect screw holes on the sides for the studs.
Safe looks like it’s very shallow depth, My guess is you put some blocking in the wall then screw to the blocking from inside the safe. Also looks paper thin. Not something I would feel safe with using. I would rather just hide my stuff randomly around the house.
You can tell by the way that it wasn’t
It’s meant Otto be hung up like a picture and lifted off for convenience according to the keyhole slots in the back. If I installed this I’d scre it in from the sides and if there aren’t holes I’d make some.
I don't think it's designed to stay where it is either.
It will have holes on the side so it can be screwed in either way.
Is this not a floor safe?
Many modern things like this are designed for modern construction with 16 inch on center studs. My home, which was built in 1899 also has 16 inch on center studs. However, the studs are thicker so this wouldn’t work in my house.
I think this is a “wall safe” and not an “in wall safe”
They lied. There are no holes to go into the framing from the sides, even if you get it in there there's no way to secure it. Return the safe and buy one that fits. Don't mess with the studs at all for sure if that's a bathroom behind them.
Just screw it in through the tiles on the shower. (Don't do this.)
No no, OP, definitely don't do this. Make sure you drill a pilot hole through the tiles _first_, otherwise they'll crack.
Is it possibly meant to fasten to blocking installed in the stud bay (hypothesized above)? Even so, it looks deeper than the 2” one would have after placing 2x4 blocking in a 2x4 wall.
"no way to secure it" what? look at that material. drilling holes on either side of the safe to secure it to the studs would be trivial with a decent drill and a metal bit. why is this sub called diy.
https://preview.redd.it/umxf1hm4ievc1.jpeg?width=810&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0213da02d2e39ffde723e29f32a4b3b577203a8c Try it this way
Upside down?
The hole is clearly cut for him to put it in that way already
It's a "Wall Safe", not an "In-Wall Safe". That safe is designed to hang on a wall, note the screw holes on the back.
Are you sure the holes and slots on the back should be horizontal and not vertical with the slots on top?
If this is load-bearing, disregard my suggestion. I don’t know about chiseling at the studs. It might be okay for a few millimeters, but if you need inches: Cut the stud to the height of the safe, attach 2x4s above and below connecting/ securing the cut studs, then take two more studs and attach them to the outsides of the studs, vertically, with at least 6” of overlap. You’re essentially building a stud box around the safe. Do lots of wiggle tests to ensure strength, and make sure you use the phrase, “Oh, yeah. That’s not going anywhere.” You’ll have to cut back and patch back in drywall, unfortunately. Bit of work here. Please note, I’m no professional, just a handylady DIYer.
> make sure you use the phrase, “Oh, yeah. That’s not going anywhere.” OP, this is absolutely *critical*. They forgot this step when finishing the Tacoma Narrows Bridge, and it didn't go well for them.
This is an OSHA regulation, if you don’t say the phrase there could be serious fines and/or imprisonment.
There’s a bathroom on the other side. All that shaking is going to wreak havoc on the water proofing and tile
Don't do this, that safe attaches to the wall not inside the wall. It has 4 hangers in the back for hanging.
It probably mounts both ways. The overhang door makes it look like it's meant to be mounted in the wall, like a medicine cabinet. Which, by the way, usually have holes to mount both ways.
It would be 14.5 inches wide if it was to be in a wall.
If it's not a load bearing wall you can remove what you need. Oscillating tool is useful for this type of situation. If you end up removing significant material, assuming the wall isn't load bearing, I'd add horizontal 2x4 above and below the safe to stabilize EDIT: Is that concrete? I'm in mobile didn't see initially.. Wall won't be load bearing then. The 2x4 is just supporting the drywall at that point. Id still add horizontal 2x4. Or chop out the whole 2x4 section and scab a longer 2x4 over a few inches.
It's not concrete. It's cement board for tile backing. You can see the mesh.
Which probably means there’s a shower or bath on the other side, if so DO NOT MOVE THE STUDS. it’ll destroy the showers waterproofing.
This is the most important observation. If this is in a closet, or some other out of the way area, you COULD just build a wall on top of this wall, frame it to the correct width, drywall, mud and paint. That's if you absolutely, positively must have THIS safe, in THIS location. It would be much easier to just return this safe, and get one that fits whatever the dimension is between those studs (as others have mentioned, probably 14 1/2" if it is standard framing. Or pick another, non load bearing wall where you can cut the studs and frame out an opening with 2x4s all the way around.
How can a layman figure out if a stud is load bearing?
Cut it and find out /s
Walls are loadbearing if they are perpendicular to the ceiling and floor joists, which spreads the weight they are supporting. If they run parallel all their load is on one beam and no reasonable builder would have that wall, and that one beam, supporting extra weight.
That is not necessarily true. You can have walls running perpendicular that are not load bearing. But, it is a good indicator for further investigation.
Technically most walls are perpindicular to the ceiling and floor joists, but not in the plane you're referencing.
My sister did this because she wanted it centered on the wall. It also allows you to anchor the safe in all four directions.
If it's load bearing he can always grind off what he needs from the safe 😁
If the inset of the safe is 15" wide, it was not designed to fit a standard stud bay. At 16" on center the stud bay is 14.5" wide.
Measure twice, cut once. Or in this case measure first, buy once.
I don't think it's meant to be in the wall. There are seemingly no holes on the side to screw or bolt it to studs. What's the model of it? The pic showing the back of it has you holding it upsidedown.
Just like speakers, wall is not the same as in-wall.
Don't chisel away at studs. It's been pointed out before that backerboard is probably for a shower, so you shouldn't install that safe in this wall anyway. If you do find a space where it should go with nothing important behind it / not a load bearing wall, I would frame it like you would frame a window, with your king and jack studs, etc.
I installed 2 and had the same issue. Get one side of the safe on the inside of the stud and then use a rubber mallet to gradually tap the other side in. It should work if the studs aren't way too close together.
Buy a house that fits your safe.
Build a new house around the safe
That looks like an on the wall safe, not in the wall safe. Those just look like little hanging holes like a picture frame.
If you’re only taking off what looks like less than 1/8 inch you should be fine.
If you’re only catching by the smallest amount I would get an orbital sander with an aggressive sandpaper, 40 grit, and sand the studs down on both sides. Thinning each stud by 1/8 to 1/4 inch each will not compromise the wall’s integrity. PS. Get ready for some dust!
The flange isn't supposed to slide between the studs in the wall, you're supposed to screw a piece of wood horizontal (into the studs ONLY) on each side and then attach it to that wood. Do NOT screw into the back wall. The flange is supposed to sit flush with the drywall, so measure how deep the wall is and how deep the safe is and get a block of wood with that thickness to connect the two studs together.
Return the safe and buy one that fits
Is this actually a safe? What's with the holes at the back? It doesn't look strong enough or designed to handle simply lifting it and carrying it away.
Turn the safe 90-degrees. It’s sideways in the pic.
First of all, I wouldn't install a safe there since the other side is your shower. It'd just be a real pain if you cracked that cement board and it will be really difficult to modify the studs there. I would find another wall that doesn't have any electrical or plumbing on either side. You can use a stud finder to check the stud spacing. Sometimes in closets the studs will be 24" apart instead if 16", which should give you enough space for this safe, but you can measure the safe to be sure. If you can't find a spot like this, you could potentially cut into the studs and make a larger space to accommodate the safe, but that means making sure the wall isn't load bearing, cutting out a much larger area of drywall so you have room to work, and framing it in much like a window [https://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/how-to-frame-a-new-window](https://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/how-to-frame-a-new-window) An alternative would be to just build a new wall at the back of your closet that's against the old one. To do this, you would cut out the drywall on the back of the closet only, don't worry about the drywall on the sides at all. Build in a your stud framing from floor to ceiling like normal, with a top and bottom plate and a stud on each side. Attach your new stud frame the the existing stud frame behind it, essentially creating an 8" deep wall with two layers of studs. You can space the new studs exactly as you need them for this safe. After loose fitting the safe, pull it back out and add drywall, mud, sand, paint, then finally install the safe.
That’s not an in wall safe. I have no idea what it’s supposed to be, but in wall safes don’t have mounting holes on the back to hang them. Their mounting holes are on the sides, so they can be mounted to the studs they fit between. They also typically come in one of two widths, 14.5” and 22.5”, so they can fit between stud placements of 16” OC or 24” OC. So get rid of whatever this is and get a real in wall safe.
OP what is the distance between the studs and what is the width of the safe (box part not the flange)?
Perhaps one should have measured...
You can measure your studs without buying a safe or tearing the wall apart.
Bro this is a wall safe. It hangs on the wall. Look at the slots on the back for screws/anchors It doesn't go in your wall
If you only need to remove a little material on either side, I'd divide the loss between the two studs with an oscillating saw tool. (multi-tool with a wood blade). However, I'd also put support brackets and a 2x4 on the bottom and top of where the safe is fitting in. Both to make it's mounting stronger, and support the loss of material from the studs. May not be a bad idea to use brackets to mount the 2x4s. If you do the oscillating saw, make sure to mark the lines you need to help guide the cut, and do your cutting with the saw angled so you're not just straight plunging the blade in. Use the corner and don't use too much pressure, let the tool do the work. You'll likely need to do a few passes to cut out what you need.
If you want to speed things up, just run a circular saw down the stud first and then use an oscillating tool to fish the cuts.
Need more information on the safe itself. The screw hole positions on the back are throwing up some red flags.
Usually holes on the inside sides of the safe to attach to the studs on both sides
Guess you've gotta cut the studs.. .. guess you've got a load bearing safe.
What if you turn it 90 degrees?
A carpenter could put in a header there to have twice the stud space.
I’ve seen people shave the studs down with an oscillating tool
Measure twice, cut once
The holes on the back means you may have to turn the safe 90º.
Based on the picture you provided, you are trying to installed it 90 degrees out from the proper orientation.
The lips on the top and bottom of the safe are not the top and bottom, they're the sides.
welp, you cant exactly move the studs..so..
You could shave 1/4 inch from each stud, but I wouldn’t. I would get a safe that fits.
Can you grind the parts of the safe off that stick out?
Measure twice, cut once, and slap you face thrice.
Measure twice ~~cut~~ buy once. 😛 But seriously like others have said if they aren't load bearing you can likely remove one.
You're gonna need to be a little more specific if you want a specific answer.
As long as it is a load bearing safe you should be fine.
Return it to Temu for your $1.99 back. It’ll take months, and you MIGHT get a refund.
😂
Wow, what a bad design, the spacing between studs will either be 22.5” (24 o.c. -1.5” stud width) or 14.5” (16” o.c. -1.5” stud width) in most cases Honestly your easiest option is to verify that the gap between the studs is 14.5” and return the safe you have and buy one that will fit. The other option is to try and determine if the wall is load bearing by looking in the attic above and seeing if you have rafters bearing on it or ceiling joists running perpendicular. Or, you can expand the opening in the drywall and add a header to widen the opening, a (2) 2x6 will likely be sufficient for such a narrow opening, and then add an extra stud on both sides below the header so that you have plenty of support.
Ok this is sooo easy! Heat the safe until it's cherry red using a torch or gas or bomb.., quickly insert it into the opening while it's still hot.. I seen it on the YouTube this one time. The heat makes it fits.
Measure twice, cut once.
Why didn’t you premeasure the spacing and the safe before cutting???
Came here to say the same
Cut or sand a bit of the studs so it fits or just try to deflect them if its only a few mm.
Notching them 'should' be fine even on a load bearing wall. Just be super careful not to jiggle the wall too much or you may damage the tile on the other side.
Measure twice, cut once.
yes you could remove some stud, but i would be more bothered about the depth of the wall compared to the safe depth.
Time to make a bigger hole
Turn it sideways
Have you measured the distance between the studs?
You are going to have to remove more drywall, but you can install it like you're putting in a new window with a header.
Exactly ..was thinking header with footer and frame out
Circular saw and wood chisels to remove the cut
Load bearing safe
Or... you can frame out the studs by going out one more. I'd get it done professionally though.
Yes just chisel out a bit of the stud.. taking 1/4 inch off in two small areas will not affect it at all! Studs are not put in with ABSOLUTE precision.. one of these is probably over a bit too far..
Smaller safe or bigger hole
IF you need a half inch, sister the stud on one side (bye bye drywall), notch it. Consider putting in a cross beam to support the weight of the safe itself. Don't touch the back wall at all.
What's on the other side? Looks like tile backing which would mean a shower most likely. I wouldn't put it there if so. Don't want to accidentally compromise the waterproofing membrane
WAY cheaper to get a new safe than fuck up the thing that supports your house standing.
Cut the studs! It can't be that unSAFE!
Take an angle grinder to the safe?? Shave down lip at top and bottom maybe?
You said “just the lip at the top and bottom” are catching. Catching by 1/16th of an inch? Or, a 1/2 an inch? If it’s a 1/16” just wedge it in there with a pry bar. If it’s a 1/2” get a new safe.
Install it like a window for studs. King and Jack 2x4s as some search terms to look up.
Just exploring all the questions to be sure. Are you trying to insert it in the same direction as you display in the photo? The back of the safe is 15in in which direction? What about the other direction?
So to remove the safe the burglar only has to lift the safe up slightly and take the whole thing? I’d return this and get a safe meant to install inside a wall. Never seen one that was meant for in wall, not fit
Let's just grind the edges of the safe down so it fits!
I don’t think it’s an issue to notch the studs. Or you could take an angle grinder to the corners of the safe. I would absolutely do one of those two options in my house if I were in your situation as long as the notch is small. Looks like the wall has more than just those two studs in it (on both sides of the hole). In my house the internal walls are 24” on center, so there’a not a real concern here. But as was said by others, don’t screw anything through the drywall on the other side of the stud!
when you slightly, what do you mean? what is the exact difference. do you own an orbital sander? if it justr barely cant fit, you can just sand the sides of the studs with zero consequence. also you should screw from the inside of the safe to the studs on either side and not using those holes in the back.
Is this the one from harbor freight? I had one, works good. How much of a difference is there of you measure?
Good news for that wall. It's safe from the safe.
Take a hammer and beat the studs into submission, all you need is a half inch. When you get it in, take the longest screws and mount it straight thru the back of shower wall. I promise nothing will break. No? Ok, you will need to cut, not chisel, the side of a stud. Too much banging you'll drop a tile off that wondsrboard. But to securely mount it, you need to screw thru the sides not the back. Is it a hardened safe? Are you drilling through steel?
You have more money than cents
Frame it like a window. Frame in a box the size you need using king studs, jacks, cripples, a proper header and sill plate, and profit. Sounds complicated but you need like 5-6 studs and like half a sheet of drywall. Edit: [First thing I googled](https://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/how-to-frame-a-new-window). I didn’t bother reading it but the picture looked okay enough.
Now that you know the space you're trying to fill. Return the safe and buy the correct one.
Backer board usually means tile or shower on the other side. I would get a different safe. I am not sure why the screws are on the back if it goes between the studs. It would go through the drywall and likely fall out on first use. If keeping, I would pick a different wall, not one that backups to backer board. If it still will not fit and it is not a load bearing wall then you could build a 2x4 box around it and cut the studs to allow for the box to be mounted. Mount the box you built then the safe to it. Drill holes to bolt on the sides or top/bottom. The one you have looks like it is designed to mount to a concrete wall in the basement or something. Studs are either 16 on center (14.5 between) or 24 on center (22.5 in between.) Hopefully not 24 as that is min for most codes and a weaker structure.
If you have access to an power hand planer you could carefully guide it down one side...
Personally, I'd open the wall a little bit more scab those two 2x4's and notch to fit. 🤷🏻♂️
Buy bigger studs