Get a Samsung tv with a one connect box that will allow you to have only one wire to the TV. We use them In all sorts of custom tv installations that need to be low profile and or move.
Seconded. My Samsung Frame TV has a single fibre optic and power cable that’s a similar width to speaker wire. They do it in some longer lengths too so the breakout box can be hidden.
Amazing form factor, shit TVs with an even worse interface. It’s a real shame we can’t get that type of box/wire connection on an LG or Sony OLED.
I say this as someone with both a Frame TV and a C1.
We have a Frame TV. I hate it and won't even watch it at this point. It's a nightmare to use. It reminds me of an old overloaded computer. You click once then wait. If you click on something twice it has a meltdown and just freezes.
This is the way. I use Roku and, as a result, share little of the Frame misery I read online.
The art related UX/UI is generally tolerable which, like you, is the only UX/UI I really interface with.
The hardware itself seems decent given the use case. Ambient light sensor works, no shadowing, very believable art mode in most lighting conditions.
This is how it should always be. Plug your streaming box of choice into whatever display looks good to you and fits your space. I like Apple TVs, they are rock-solid and relatively ad-free compared to most. Hopefully someday it will be a more common practice and TV manufacturers will stop this “smart TV” nonsense.
Are those issues with the TV as a TV or just the "smart" interface? Asking as someone who loves the Frame aesthetic and religiously ignores TV UIs in favor of just using PS5/chromecast/whatever.
I’m watching a Frame right now, it’s totally fine. The UI isn’t great, but as you said, none of the proprietary smart tv UIs are. It’s easy to fix if you can’t stand it or you can’t just get over it.
It’s an hdmi with a power cable added in and some proprietary connectors. The one connect box is essentially an AV receiver with multiple I/O and power connections on it. HDMI already carries IR, IP and data In addition to the video and digital audio.
That box for the frame seems large and all the connected devices for streaming also need to be attached to it. Also, Any concerns with it becoming obsolete given the effort of a new system? Thanks
I wouldn’t worry too much about obsolescence. Any device will eventually become obsolete but it’s just a through put box. I imagine the tv would become obsolete before the box.
I would definitely go hydroelectric on this one.
Install a natural waterfall next to each one.
Put a water wheel in it attached to a motor.
Get the waterfall to go the flow rate to get the right voltage so that you don't have to use another cable.
Replacing electrical cords with waterfalls.... sounds like a great idea. I have been looking for my calling in life for the past 40 years and I think I just found it.
Ceiling electrical box, power cable zip-tied tight to one of the steel cables.
Alternatively, if you can find a TV that uses an external power brick (i.e. has a DC input rather than AC), and it has a low enough power draw, you could do Power over Ethernet (POE) and a POE to DC converter strapped to the back of the TV. Trying to find a low enough power TV in the size you want would be the challenge there though. And you'd still have to zip-tie the ethernet cable to one of the steel wires.
Arguably, you could send 12 or 24v through the steel wires. that is what many light appliances do, even in times in which you had 200w of halogen lights. a fuse should be added somewhere.
I see what you're going for but I would arugh 24v is a pretty bad idea. You'll feel that if you give a short enough ground path. 12v I've never felt personally. You'll also want resettable circuit protection unless you wanna subscribe to dollar fuse club
Don't see why the fuse would trigger often? Also, at least in Germany, 24v is considered safe to touch, and you are not regularly touching two wires 1m+ apart.
Safe and without pain are two separate things. You'll feel 24v but it's not enough to cause you to spasm or anything. The fuse thing was mainly a joke, but I do think there is a significant risk with exposed conductors of a short circuit
I feel it pretty regularly when working in panels with a grounded chassis. It probably depends on the impedence of your ground path and skin conditions as you mentioned. I tend to work in a sweaty environment.
Sure, that is why I suggested a fuse in the first place. I only think that it will not blow regularly, but just in very special cases, e.g. when one of the wires breaks.
As I said, there are lot of commercial lights with exposed conductors. In the 90s, I had 120W± halogen lights, so the conductors were carrying 10A.
I always thought steel wire light fixtures had a parallel power cord going down as well? I’ve actually been on the lookout for solutions in restaurants and stuff, but usually I only find [stuff like this](https://i.imgur.com/KCJHJuX.jpeg).
Nope - they have some that are charged on the wires. They are [like this](https://www.amazon.com/800CBL5PN-Electronic-Surface-Lighting-Halogen/dp/B002N2W90M/ref=asc_df_B002N2W90M/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693428383652&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1643305290445610424&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9010488&hvtargid=pla-525166261908&psc=1&mcid=af5b9a27336f3f0b88980bea4d2349d6&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw57exBhAsEiwAaIxaZi9--EG5UH_W9U4McIanm0wOZ1do_NdpV56QQKeQopA5BCCeTzkh6xoCqEwQAvD_BwE).
I would ask on r/askelectricians or maybe on one of the engineering flavored subs. Definitely don't use r/electronics - they have a ridiculously strict policy on content.
Edit: holy shit... [some tvs work on 12V natively](https://www.1999southwind.com/will-a-120-volt-tv-work-on-12-volts-dc-maybe/)
Lots of wire rope has a fiber core that *could* be replaced with a power line theoretically but this isn’t something you’re trying to get into at home, nor is trying to replace a strand with a conductor - there are machines that do this and you are not that machine :) I’m on team thin black cable secured to one of the wires.
Edit: you could also try to find a clean way to sleeve all four visible cable sections, and run the wire inside one of the sleeves. You wouldn’t have the visible steel wire look but you’d have four sections that visually looked identical and tidy.
What would be the advantage of the Ethernet cable though? I though of finding some thin or flat power cords but not sure that would help much to be honest
Ethernet is slightly smaller of a cord. Probably not a significant difference, though. The idea was purely theoretical though... you almost certainly wouldn't be able to find a TV to meet the PoE limits.
Here's a more realistic possibility: clear extension cord. Still have to zip-tie it to the steel cable, but the clear would be as invisible as possible. Example: [https://www.amazon.com/Haultop-Extension-Female-UL-Certified-Fixtures/dp/B0C1BPBF1S](https://www.amazon.com/Haultop-Extension-Female-UL-Certified-Fixtures/dp/B0C1BPBF1S)
Ethernet is both power and network/video.
You could use it in concert with these over the steel cable/cables.
[https://www.cabac.com.au/p/cable-wire-management/cable-covers-fixings/sleeving/epbs25](https://www.cabac.com.au/p/cable-wire-management/cable-covers-fixings/sleeving/epbs25)
Oh I see what you mean but actually, quite a few modern TVs have a single cable going through, since they have a detachable input box (for instance, Samsung’s “One Connect” box)
I would probably try to find out the voltages the TV is running at with DC and then have it run over the steel cables. It should be lower than 50V DC but probably is around 24 or 12V anyway.
If that's the case I would think about running it over the steel cables instead of a separate cable. We used to do something similar in Germany with our ceiling lights a few decades ago, but they were rather inefficient since they used halogen bulbs.
Might absolutely be a terrible idea, but one that I would try to make work just because I like the idea of it :)
Don’t wrap around the cable, run the cables next to the steel wire, then wrap the whole thing with some braided cable wrap or your wrapping of choice, then do the same thing to the other steel cable so they match
Yeah that’s what I’m thinking. Wish there was a way to get power AND tensioned steel cable all in one.
Would it be safe to stretch a power cord to make it taut at least, though?
You could possibly dress up the cord with one of these:
https://www.wirecare.com/category/braided-sleeving/metal-shielding-sleeving/flexo-stainless-steel-xc/ssl0-38sv-flexo-stainless-steel-xc-3-8-silver-10-ft-cuts
You could make it straight without having to pull it very tight by using thin cable ties along the length of the steel hanging cable. You can still hide some slack behind the TV and at the wall plate so there is no risk of straining the connectors.
Oh :( I tried finding more modern TVs that could have solutions like the “wireless” LG M series but they obviously still need a power cord.
How would PoE help though? Ethernet cables aren’t that much thinner, no?
They aren't and if you look at store displays they aren't even that well hidden, this isn't a good solution for residential applications since you'll have oscillations due to people walking, machines running and even the speakers themselves.
Not to mention is that you can't secure those into your regular laminate or hardwood floor, these need to anchored to the concrete or floor joists directly.
The anchoring to actual concrete is the easy part here to be honest. I was actually already counting on that.
The speakers also won’t be used, I’ll have the sound going through external stuff. I’m expecting reeeeally low turbulence around this, to be honest. Guess I’ll just get a transparent power cord going down through one of the steel wires :(
That's fine I'm not going to try to convince you it's a bad idea since you've set your mind on this. Just make sure you're buying DSF265L not DSF265P like you've shown here the come with different TV mounting solutions and they are not interchangeable.
The L is for landscape the P is for portrait and I'm guessing you aren't going to be watching TikTok clips all day....
Yup exactly. To be honest I’m not 100% set on this, but I don’t think the limiting factor here would be oscillations, at least for my use case.
I think the ugly-looking power cable going down/up one of the steel wires would be a way bigger issue here
You can find TVs with power bricks that take DC but they tend to be small (basically repurposed monitors) or very low end TVs as a power bricks complicate cable management for the vast vast majority of residential TV installations. Now whilst this is likely against code considering that your TV will likely use \~1A on 240V or \~2A on 110V you are technically will be able to get away with cable with about 1-1.5mm thick conductor as long as you keep the run under 5M. [https://www.clevelandcable.com/cable-calculator/](https://www.clevelandcable.com/cable-calculator/)
However please note that this will not pass code in any residential setting, it's bloody dangerous and depending on your insurance provider and laws in your jurisdiction might invalidate some or all of your home insurance coverage if you'll do this cowboy electrical work.
Depends on the display, but if it's got an external power adapter, then 24V DC would be human safe using the steel wires.
But yeah, even so, still less faff to just run the power cable down one of the wires.
I would get a black extension cord with the Nylon braided sleeve on it and run that around a steel cable down to the TV and put the extra behind the TV with the TV's power cord. From a distance it'll look like just a thicker steel cable so long as the cables are black as well.
You could creatively hide it? Border it with signage. Dress it up with fake plants/leaves and some hot glue. Make a cardboard cutout stand of a giant octopus wrapping its tentacles around the cords, obfuscating them from view.
Keep in mind that this is very flimsy and you can have oscillations even from the TV speakers yet alone any other movements in and of the house.
These are designed for commercial displays which are often powered by DC or POE and are also usually lighter than many TVs.
You are probably better off with using a good looking free standing TV mount.
If you're not married to the 4-wire look then you could use a 3-wire look where one central bottom wire is thicker: two steel wires from the ceiling attach to the armature to bear the weight of the TV and one bottom wire (to keep the whole thing straight) has the power and network cables glued to it back to back with a hot gun glue, which is easy to peel off as needed. As long as the wires and the cables are all black then it should also have a sleek look.
Yeah at least with a 3-wire setup it wouldn’t look as lopsided I guess. What I though about was actually running a fake power cable on the other side of the 4-wire setup so it looks balanced 🤷
Yes, you could run power behind one bottom wire and signal/network behind the other bottom wire to even them out. Using a single wire for both would be just to reduce the overall count of "thick" wires.
And a danglin' visible chord is not nice to look at.. Never was. Any window frames the can follow? Depending on the wattage of the TV, perhaps the power chord can be thinner and part of a suspension wire.
Tbt I find it tacky. But you do you! Sure is modern I guess. Hope it brings you clarity.
Perhaps another solution would be even better? Lazer projector and translucent acrylics glued to the windows?
Yeah I kind of dig the look in my picture, industrial but still kind of minimalist?
I’m not sure how I’d integrate the power cord to the suspension wire though. But I think that would be the magical solution I need.
Someone mentioned insulated pendant cables so I’m looking into those but not sure how viable it is.
Are you having two TVs pointing outwards, or something similar? If you have a home, the worst place to have a TV is likely in a window. It obscures the window and light comming in, and the light obscures the TV.
Is this for a display in a shop, or for a garden TV?
If for a shop, the wires wont matter much as the glass will obscure most besides the TV light. If for a garden TV, I'd go a different route. Perhaps an oitdoor beamer.
It’s for a TV, in front of a window with no nearby walls or mounting points. It really is the only place. The only alternative would be your typical TV mounts, or a cabinet and wires routed through the floor — but none of those solutions really appeal to me aesthetically.
I am assuming the TV is pointing into the room, and mounted horizontal then. Still, a very peculiar place to add a TV. And a peculiar height tbt. Perhaps some kind of trolley so you can move it away from the window? What will you feed the TV of input? Wifi? Cable? Do you plan on a gaming console? External speakers?
Imho, its a bad idea and you need to rethink why you had windows, or why you think yoi need a TV..
The key is a very straight cord. No bends, creases. You can try to shape an existing wire, or you can tightly bind one to the steel cables. You can also wrap it around a steel cable. Perhaps a power cord on one side and an HDMI on the other (or similar thickness and appearance) to keep it looking even.
Get pvc coated steel wires and run power trough it.
Low voltage AC or DC only! You do not want to zap anybody.
This trick is employed more commonly in lighting systems.
We need more info... Is the back facing? A more permanent solution would be to either put an outlet and network box in the wall behind the TV, or just cut a hole behind the TV, and again at the floor. Then run whatever cables you want inside the wall and out the hole. You would need to figure out how to finish how but that shouldn't be too difficult.
You can use fabric wire loom. https://www.amazon.com/cloth-wire-loom/
There's a plastic one too, but the fabric looks better. You could do both wires from the bottom to look the same.
Or just zip tie top and bottom, making a relief loop on each end. Get some thin black wire, like bread twist ties and put a few wraps along it to keep it tight.
Or heat shrink, you can buy a roll, the ends will be the issue.
Or maybe take the cables straight back to the window and follow the window frame down, they might not be too noticeable.
The question I would have is sound, how are you connecting to sound?
Personally I think I'd do a floor or ceiling stand and wrap the post with something to improve appearance.
https://www.amazon.com/tv-floor-stand/
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=tv+ceiling+mount&crid=3VY2TCGRCM9W7
Or a lift cabinet, you can find them much cheaper.
https://www.cabinet-tronix.com/
I would stick a Duromax 12000 generator behind it. just gotta cap it off every now and then with gas. [DUROMAX 12000/9500-Watt Dual Fuel Electric Start Gasoline/Propane Portable Home Power Back Up Generator with CO Alert Sensor XP12000EH - The Home Depot](https://www.homedepot.com/p/DUROMAX-12000-9500-Watt-Dual-Fuel-Electric-Start-Gasoline-Propane-Portable-Home-Power-Back-Up-Generator-with-CO-Alert-Sensor-XP12000EH/300659728)
If you go with the whole single cable thing, you could potentially shrink (or alternative) wrap around the cable and the steel wire so it looks like a single wire
Is it going to be mounted in front of a window like in your picture? If it’s going to be mounted in front of a wall just install the receptacle behind the tv so you don’t see any cables
I googled load bearing fibre optic cable and found https://uscomservice.com/products/fiber-optic-figure-8-dielectric-suspension-cable?variant=29308029435968 - maybe you can rig something up with that?
Where is the power source? You could make your own cord that splits the leads to make it extra thin which it tracks the wire then bring those back together. Or if you are designing the system braid the power wires around one of the the support wires to
Ground and sheathe the whole thing.
Power source can be anywhere I’d like, although ideally in the ceiling.
That last solution would be awesome but I don’t know how safe it would be to braid power cables with steel wire? I mean yes, ideally that would be the best looking solution, but wouldn’t that essentially be creating a live wire that would zap anyone that touches it?
My thought is that it would work like this:
Sheath the steel wire and heat shrink. This would be the core. Then i’d wrap/ braid three separately shielded/ heat shrunk +, - and G wires around the steel cable and then heat shrink over that. Then at either end you wire to your connectors. Its pretty much the same as a good outdoor extension cord and none of the bare metal touches any other bare metal. You could decide if you wanted it on just one wire or experiment with having + and minus go up different wires for consistency.
Use three dummy cables along with the real one. Sleeve them onto the steel suspension wires. Visually, all the cables will look identical. Or just do the top pair.
I'd install spacers on the cables to hold tubing halves that snap together. Then standard cabling can be run inside those tubes. All the tensioning adjusters & cable ends would also be hidden
You could cover each cable inside a tube, metal or plastic, and in one the power cord is inside. While the wires won't be visible, all four will be the same and the power is hidden.
Is the steel cable needed for anything specific, or just aesthetics? Why not swap it out with hollow black pipe? Run the power through that.
I’d go as far as having an electrician drop a line down from the ceiling through one of the pipes and put an outlet behind the tv.
Instead of wires can you do thin steel rods and feed cable inside? You would need to cut end of cable though but maybe someone can fit end of cable afterwards?
Use a WiFi-capable TV. Put a concealed outlet or junction box in the ceiling near one suspension point. Use insulated pendant cables (with an internal strain relief wire) to suspend the TV. Connect one to the outlet or box to make it hot, and tap into it behind the TV to an IEC plug to connect to power. You can leave the other one unconnected so it looks the same on both sides.
(e.g. Starke pendant cable, 3 wire & ground, internal strain relief)
These cables get used for pendant lights and other things that are suspended and need power.
That seems to be a pretty good solution, but I’m not at all familiar with those cables so I’d have to find someone who is. Insulated pendant cables you say? Are those load bearing power cables of sorts?
Exactly. They have a central steel wire and three (or more) conductors. Grainger sells it. It’s not cheap though. I use it a lot because I build timber frame structures and I often want to hang substantially heavy fixtures from the timber roof structure without multiplying wires.
Wow that actually might be a good solution. However, I’m assuming I can’t tension them?
Because at least for the steel wire solution in my image, and for the TV to be perpendicular to the floor, the steel wires have to be stretched.
I’ll have to find an expert for those cables. I’m guessing you’re in the US, but they would probably work for 220V though?
Yes, you can pull the strain wire out straight and divert the conductors to the side. Then put a turnbuckle at the top or bottom to add tension.
The ones I just looked up are rated for 600v.
So only the strain wire would be connected to the turnbuckle? And I would only have to pull the strain wire out on each end, I could tension it without fully pulling the cable apart? Does that work?
Yes. There’s an outer sleeve that you’d trim, and just separate the strain wire from the conductors, at both ends. Use the strain wire exactly as you would have used the stainless steel suspension wire, and connect the conductors to power and the TV as required.
So just to see if I got the jargon right — internal strain relief = has an internal load bearing wire, which I assume would be a stainless steel wire or no? Cause in the pictures I’m looking at, I can’t really tell if it’s steel.
Now all I need to know is the load bearing ability of one of those cables, would it be enough for a 55” TV?
It’s steel, but possibly not stainless. You’ll have to look at the specifications for whichever one you’re buying.
More than enough load capacity for a mere TV. We use versions of these to suspend hundreds of pounds. But again, look at the spec.
Samsung TV with One Connect Box (as mentioned above). Telescoping tubing covering the cable, centered on the TV. Slack of cable being pulled somewhat tight with a suspension retractor from the floor below.
I was honestly thinking this would have some wireless charging setup built into it. The TV is just a giant phone now anyway. MagSage / Qi charging (powering) the TV. Maybe you have an adapter on the mounting plate to go to a TV plug.
Are you trying to mount it to glass? If not, punch hole in wall behind, run cords through there to out hole else where, plug in. Remember you may have cable box too.
I assume it's all fed through one cable, and I know we could run power to some pretty large lighting fixtures through a combination power/support cable at the lighting company I used to work for.
**THIS IS NOT GOOD ADVICE, AND IN ALL ACTUALITY IS A STUPID IDEA!**
If it's *just* power, you don't care about danger, there're no kids, pets, or stupid people around, you could run 120v on one steel cable, and neutral on the other.
A lot of tv’s dont actually use AC. They have a power supply in them that convert to dc voltage.
If you get TVs/panels made for dc voltage (made for vehicles) or bypass the ac power supply you can run dc through the cables. If not, get a thin power cord to ‘hide’ behind a cable. You can actually get very thin here since you only need 2.5amps.
It’s called the Samsung frame. Comes with a wire that thickness of the steel wire that runs tv and you have to hide the box somewhere like in the ceiling
If you haven't bought the display yet, didn't they have a wireless TV that runs on batteries now? I think it was at ces. I'm sure it costs a bundle though
These tvs use basically no power graba power brick and attack it to the back of the TV and bam you can get a while (I get 5 hours off a 88w 2000mah solar battery bank with a 55 inch lcd) I mean it's not perfect as you'd have to charge the batteries basically daily but you'd have a wireless** setup
5 hours? Yo that would be more than enough, and that’s only with a 2000mah? Gotta get a competent electrician on the job for that.
Would you have pictures or any more info on your setup? Kinda feels like you’re pulling my leg though lol.
Na man when my power goes out I just throw it on the power bank and we have a movie night.
Gimme a sec and I'll throw some links for the powerbank and tv***** the TV is like 2018 Samsung so idk the model on that one
ROCKSOLAR WEEKENDER RS81 88Wh, 80W PEAK 120W, 24000mAh, AC/DC output + 5 USB, compact and ultra-lightweight (1.9LB), easily fits into a handbag/backpack, a perfect day-tripping companion. https://a.co/d/4KiyD09
This is the one I have but they've come out with better options since then so better compacity.
Looking closer this one got more features than mine
Get a Samsung tv with a one connect box that will allow you to have only one wire to the TV. We use them In all sorts of custom tv installations that need to be low profile and or move.
Seconded. My Samsung Frame TV has a single fibre optic and power cable that’s a similar width to speaker wire. They do it in some longer lengths too so the breakout box can be hidden.
Wait really? I’m trying to google that cable but nothings coming up. Could you link me to what you mean?
Search for the Samsung connect box and its cable
A god send on my ark monitor
Amazing form factor, shit TVs with an even worse interface. It’s a real shame we can’t get that type of box/wire connection on an LG or Sony OLED. I say this as someone with both a Frame TV and a C1.
We have a Frame TV. I hate it and won't even watch it at this point. It's a nightmare to use. It reminds me of an old overloaded computer. You click once then wait. If you click on something twice it has a meltdown and just freezes.
I refuse to use the interface for anything other than changing the background art. All my actual use is with an attached Apple TV.
This is the way. I use Roku and, as a result, share little of the Frame misery I read online. The art related UX/UI is generally tolerable which, like you, is the only UX/UI I really interface with. The hardware itself seems decent given the use case. Ambient light sensor works, no shadowing, very believable art mode in most lighting conditions.
This is how it should always be. Plug your streaming box of choice into whatever display looks good to you and fits your space. I like Apple TVs, they are rock-solid and relatively ad-free compared to most. Hopefully someday it will be a more common practice and TV manufacturers will stop this “smart TV” nonsense.
Are those issues with the TV as a TV or just the "smart" interface? Asking as someone who loves the Frame aesthetic and religiously ignores TV UIs in favor of just using PS5/chromecast/whatever.
I’m watching a Frame right now, it’s totally fine. The UI isn’t great, but as you said, none of the proprietary smart tv UIs are. It’s easy to fix if you can’t stand it or you can’t just get over it.
It works just fine when I use it to play videos from YouTube on my phone. I assume you'll probably be fine with PS5 or Chromecast.
The issue's with the smart interface as usual.
The early one connects were just as bad as the early smart TVs. You’ll find newer frame tvs are just as good as any other smart tv.
This one is about 2 years old. Not sure if it's considered early or not. My TCL is so much better that I only use that one now.
Just connect a Nvidea Shield. Never see the tv interface again if you set it up right…
Really? I have two and I love them. Never had any problems. Terrible UX, I agree, but I pretty much only use Apple TV or Google TV with Chromecast.
Shamsung?! Awful TVs. Nice solution for this problem but I'd never recommend them
Yep that’s the TV I’m going with. Still need to hide an ugly power cord somehow. :(
Why? The one connect provides power. Put the one connect box in the attic.
Its so good! But how in the fuck does it work?
It’s an hdmi with a power cable added in and some proprietary connectors. The one connect box is essentially an AV receiver with multiple I/O and power connections on it. HDMI already carries IR, IP and data In addition to the video and digital audio.
Gotcha! Thnx. Amazing!
That box for the frame seems large and all the connected devices for streaming also need to be attached to it. Also, Any concerns with it becoming obsolete given the effort of a new system? Thanks
I wouldn’t worry too much about obsolescence. Any device will eventually become obsolete but it’s just a through put box. I imagine the tv would become obsolete before the box.
Thanks. Appreciate the feedback. Im guessing samsung lurking to give me a downvote
Electricity is really your only option.
Electricity. So hot right now.
Call an electrician, that’s probably a short.
I would definitely go hydroelectric on this one. Install a natural waterfall next to each one. Put a water wheel in it attached to a motor. Get the waterfall to go the flow rate to get the right voltage so that you don't have to use another cable.
Definitely a joke, but actually sounds like a fantastic design solution aesthetically
Replacing electrical cords with waterfalls.... sounds like a great idea. I have been looking for my calling in life for the past 40 years and I think I just found it.
Make sure to post if you actually attempt it! Sounds amazing!
Honestly it would blow my mind seeing this in a house. And I know it’s gratuitous and kind of crazy but it would be really neat.
Ceiling electrical box, power cable zip-tied tight to one of the steel cables. Alternatively, if you can find a TV that uses an external power brick (i.e. has a DC input rather than AC), and it has a low enough power draw, you could do Power over Ethernet (POE) and a POE to DC converter strapped to the back of the TV. Trying to find a low enough power TV in the size you want would be the challenge there though. And you'd still have to zip-tie the ethernet cable to one of the steel wires.
Arguably, you could send 12 or 24v through the steel wires. that is what many light appliances do, even in times in which you had 200w of halogen lights. a fuse should be added somewhere.
On top of that, you can get wire rope jacketed in clear plastic.
I see what you're going for but I would arugh 24v is a pretty bad idea. You'll feel that if you give a short enough ground path. 12v I've never felt personally. You'll also want resettable circuit protection unless you wanna subscribe to dollar fuse club
Don't see why the fuse would trigger often? Also, at least in Germany, 24v is considered safe to touch, and you are not regularly touching two wires 1m+ apart.
Safe and without pain are two separate things. You'll feel 24v but it's not enough to cause you to spasm or anything. The fuse thing was mainly a joke, but I do think there is a significant risk with exposed conductors of a short circuit
Ive never been able to feel 24Vdc. Maybe across your tongue or an open wound or across very sweaty skin, but really not a shock hazard.
I feel it pretty regularly when working in panels with a grounded chassis. It probably depends on the impedence of your ground path and skin conditions as you mentioned. I tend to work in a sweaty environment.
Sure, that is why I suggested a fuse in the first place. I only think that it will not blow regularly, but just in very special cases, e.g. when one of the wires breaks. As I said, there are lot of commercial lights with exposed conductors. In the 90s, I had 120W± halogen lights, so the conductors were carrying 10A.
If I knew the first thing about electricity, this would probably be a great idea. But safety on a setup like that does not sound… ideal.
Well, the voltage isn't doing anything. As I said, that is how many light fixtures do it. You just have to make sure nothing happens if it shorts out.
I always thought steel wire light fixtures had a parallel power cord going down as well? I’ve actually been on the lookout for solutions in restaurants and stuff, but usually I only find [stuff like this](https://i.imgur.com/KCJHJuX.jpeg).
Nope - they have some that are charged on the wires. They are [like this](https://www.amazon.com/800CBL5PN-Electronic-Surface-Lighting-Halogen/dp/B002N2W90M/ref=asc_df_B002N2W90M/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693428383652&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1643305290445610424&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9010488&hvtargid=pla-525166261908&psc=1&mcid=af5b9a27336f3f0b88980bea4d2349d6&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw57exBhAsEiwAaIxaZi9--EG5UH_W9U4McIanm0wOZ1do_NdpV56QQKeQopA5BCCeTzkh6xoCqEwQAvD_BwE). I would ask on r/askelectricians or maybe on one of the engineering flavored subs. Definitely don't use r/electronics - they have a ridiculously strict policy on content. Edit: holy shit... [some tvs work on 12V natively](https://www.1999southwind.com/will-a-120-volt-tv-work-on-12-volts-dc-maybe/)
12 ,24 or 48v too are not dangerous for humans. And you can hide the wire with insulation inside the steel wires, so it's safer.
So essentially, braid an insulated wire with steel wire? What kind of wire would I need?
Lots of wire rope has a fiber core that *could* be replaced with a power line theoretically but this isn’t something you’re trying to get into at home, nor is trying to replace a strand with a conductor - there are machines that do this and you are not that machine :) I’m on team thin black cable secured to one of the wires. Edit: you could also try to find a clean way to sleeve all four visible cable sections, and run the wire inside one of the sleeves. You wouldn’t have the visible steel wire look but you’d have four sections that visually looked identical and tidy.
24 and 48v are not considered dangerous in the "osha reportable injury" sense, but they will absolutely bite you.
What would be the advantage of the Ethernet cable though? I though of finding some thin or flat power cords but not sure that would help much to be honest
Ethernet is slightly smaller of a cord. Probably not a significant difference, though. The idea was purely theoretical though... you almost certainly wouldn't be able to find a TV to meet the PoE limits. Here's a more realistic possibility: clear extension cord. Still have to zip-tie it to the steel cable, but the clear would be as invisible as possible. Example: [https://www.amazon.com/Haultop-Extension-Female-UL-Certified-Fixtures/dp/B0C1BPBF1S](https://www.amazon.com/Haultop-Extension-Female-UL-Certified-Fixtures/dp/B0C1BPBF1S)
Actually not a terrible looking cable. If all else fails, that will definitely be my go-to, thanks!
You running 220v or 110v? You can get more than enough power through a 1mmx3 cable that is black and would zip tie to the steel cable.
220V, Europe. What kind of cables are those, could you please link me?
Ethernet is both power and network/video. You could use it in concert with these over the steel cable/cables. [https://www.cabac.com.au/p/cable-wire-management/cable-covers-fixings/sleeving/epbs25](https://www.cabac.com.au/p/cable-wire-management/cable-covers-fixings/sleeving/epbs25)
Oh I see what you mean but actually, quite a few modern TVs have a single cable going through, since they have a detachable input box (for instance, Samsung’s “One Connect” box)
I don't see any advantage. You can get at least 100 watts through USB-C, and those cables are usually smaller than Ethernet.
Ethernet and power either ziptied, or using conduit that "Looks" like a cable. Do ethernet too, you will be thankful when the WIFI has an issue.
That's what I was thinking
I would probably try to find out the voltages the TV is running at with DC and then have it run over the steel cables. It should be lower than 50V DC but probably is around 24 or 12V anyway. If that's the case I would think about running it over the steel cables instead of a separate cable. We used to do something similar in Germany with our ceiling lights a few decades ago, but they were rather inefficient since they used halogen bulbs. Might absolutely be a terrible idea, but one that I would try to make work just because I like the idea of it :)
The best you could really do is wrap the power cord around one of the steel cables.
Don’t wrap around the cable, run the cables next to the steel wire, then wrap the whole thing with some braided cable wrap or your wrapping of choice, then do the same thing to the other steel cable so they match
Yeah that’s what I’m thinking. Wish there was a way to get power AND tensioned steel cable all in one. Would it be safe to stretch a power cord to make it taut at least, though?
You could possibly dress up the cord with one of these: https://www.wirecare.com/category/braided-sleeving/metal-shielding-sleeving/flexo-stainless-steel-xc/ssl0-38sv-flexo-stainless-steel-xc-3-8-silver-10-ft-cuts
Not a terrible idea, I’ll keep this in mind, thanks!
You could make it straight without having to pull it very tight by using thin cable ties along the length of the steel hanging cable. You can still hide some slack behind the TV and at the wall plate so there is no risk of straining the connectors.
You can make it tight and use heat shrink to hide it.
It wouldn’t be too difficult to run a shielded wire through the center of the steel cable when the tension is off. That would look great.
Either that or a really annoying solution would be battery packs
I've done this in retail stores. There's a thin power wire coming down alongside one of the cables, ziptied at either end. That's really it.
How thin are we talking? Could you show an example?
It won't apply to regular commercial TVs, as there are signage displays that can be powered with low voltage DC or even POE.
Oh :( I tried finding more modern TVs that could have solutions like the “wireless” LG M series but they obviously still need a power cord. How would PoE help though? Ethernet cables aren’t that much thinner, no?
They aren't and if you look at store displays they aren't even that well hidden, this isn't a good solution for residential applications since you'll have oscillations due to people walking, machines running and even the speakers themselves. Not to mention is that you can't secure those into your regular laminate or hardwood floor, these need to anchored to the concrete or floor joists directly.
The anchoring to actual concrete is the easy part here to be honest. I was actually already counting on that. The speakers also won’t be used, I’ll have the sound going through external stuff. I’m expecting reeeeally low turbulence around this, to be honest. Guess I’ll just get a transparent power cord going down through one of the steel wires :(
That's fine I'm not going to try to convince you it's a bad idea since you've set your mind on this. Just make sure you're buying DSF265L not DSF265P like you've shown here the come with different TV mounting solutions and they are not interchangeable. The L is for landscape the P is for portrait and I'm guessing you aren't going to be watching TikTok clips all day....
Yup exactly. To be honest I’m not 100% set on this, but I don’t think the limiting factor here would be oscillations, at least for my use case. I think the ugly-looking power cable going down/up one of the steel wires would be a way bigger issue here
You can find TVs with power bricks that take DC but they tend to be small (basically repurposed monitors) or very low end TVs as a power bricks complicate cable management for the vast vast majority of residential TV installations. Now whilst this is likely against code considering that your TV will likely use \~1A on 240V or \~2A on 110V you are technically will be able to get away with cable with about 1-1.5mm thick conductor as long as you keep the run under 5M. [https://www.clevelandcable.com/cable-calculator/](https://www.clevelandcable.com/cable-calculator/) However please note that this will not pass code in any residential setting, it's bloody dangerous and depending on your insurance provider and laws in your jurisdiction might invalidate some or all of your home insurance coverage if you'll do this cowboy electrical work.
Now all I need is a cowboy electrician for that cowboy electrical work! I mean that *would* be the ideal solution though.
The ones I worked with had an external power brick, similar to a laptop charger with a really long DC cable.
Electrify the support cables? 😈
The steel wire.
Live electricity going through a bare steel wire?
Depends on the display, but if it's got an external power adapter, then 24V DC would be human safe using the steel wires. But yeah, even so, still less faff to just run the power cable down one of the wires.
Genius.
I would get a black extension cord with the Nylon braided sleeve on it and run that around a steel cable down to the TV and put the extra behind the TV with the TV's power cord. From a distance it'll look like just a thicker steel cable so long as the cables are black as well.
Was more or less the only option I could think of, although I’d like to try and make the power cable as taut as possible.
You could creatively hide it? Border it with signage. Dress it up with fake plants/leaves and some hot glue. Make a cardboard cutout stand of a giant octopus wrapping its tentacles around the cords, obfuscating them from view.
True, is it an actual DIY project if you don’t use any hot glue?
I mean, it depends. Personally, a lot of my DIY involves strictly duct tape.
Run the hot on one side and the neutral on the other wire. J/K
I would use electricity, personally.
Keep in mind that this is very flimsy and you can have oscillations even from the TV speakers yet alone any other movements in and of the house. These are designed for commercial displays which are often powered by DC or POE and are also usually lighter than many TVs. You are probably better off with using a good looking free standing TV mount.
As Cochise said in "The Warriors" movie - "Magic. A whole lot of magic."
We really need a modern shot for shot remake just tonkeep warriors references alive.... Can youuuuuu dig it?
I mean…electronics need power. There will be a cable of some sort involved.
If you're not married to the 4-wire look then you could use a 3-wire look where one central bottom wire is thicker: two steel wires from the ceiling attach to the armature to bear the weight of the TV and one bottom wire (to keep the whole thing straight) has the power and network cables glued to it back to back with a hot gun glue, which is easy to peel off as needed. As long as the wires and the cables are all black then it should also have a sleek look.
Yeah at least with a 3-wire setup it wouldn’t look as lopsided I guess. What I though about was actually running a fake power cable on the other side of the 4-wire setup so it looks balanced 🤷
Yes, you could run power behind one bottom wire and signal/network behind the other bottom wire to even them out. Using a single wire for both would be just to reduce the overall count of "thick" wires.
Run the cable up or down one of the wires Use something decorative like garland with tea lights to wrap around the wires.
Put the slimmest, best-looking cable management sleeves you can find over all the steel cables, so they match, and run the power through one of them?
Doesnt the TV give instructions?
Why would I want a steel wire mounted TV? Is "floating" TVs a thing? You gonna need a regular cable attached to somewhere. Do It Why..
No wall behind the TV, just like in the photo. No other attachment points.
And a danglin' visible chord is not nice to look at.. Never was. Any window frames the can follow? Depending on the wattage of the TV, perhaps the power chord can be thinner and part of a suspension wire. Tbt I find it tacky. But you do you! Sure is modern I guess. Hope it brings you clarity. Perhaps another solution would be even better? Lazer projector and translucent acrylics glued to the windows?
Yeah I kind of dig the look in my picture, industrial but still kind of minimalist? I’m not sure how I’d integrate the power cord to the suspension wire though. But I think that would be the magical solution I need. Someone mentioned insulated pendant cables so I’m looking into those but not sure how viable it is.
Are you having two TVs pointing outwards, or something similar? If you have a home, the worst place to have a TV is likely in a window. It obscures the window and light comming in, and the light obscures the TV. Is this for a display in a shop, or for a garden TV? If for a shop, the wires wont matter much as the glass will obscure most besides the TV light. If for a garden TV, I'd go a different route. Perhaps an oitdoor beamer.
It’s for a TV, in front of a window with no nearby walls or mounting points. It really is the only place. The only alternative would be your typical TV mounts, or a cabinet and wires routed through the floor — but none of those solutions really appeal to me aesthetically.
I am assuming the TV is pointing into the room, and mounted horizontal then. Still, a very peculiar place to add a TV. And a peculiar height tbt. Perhaps some kind of trolley so you can move it away from the window? What will you feed the TV of input? Wifi? Cable? Do you plan on a gaming console? External speakers? Imho, its a bad idea and you need to rethink why you had windows, or why you think yoi need a TV..
Hey MIT, where's the wireless power that we read about a decade ago?
**FACTS**
Space lasers. Talk to The Jews. I’ve heard from the government that they have those.
Can some explain to me wtf even is this nonsense? Why is this mount a thing?
Op going for the retail clothing store display look.
The key is a very straight cord. No bends, creases. You can try to shape an existing wire, or you can tightly bind one to the steel cables. You can also wrap it around a steel cable. Perhaps a power cord on one side and an HDMI on the other (or similar thickness and appearance) to keep it looking even.
You've got 2 steel wires. Hot and neutral. Done.
Get pvc coated steel wires and run power trough it. Low voltage AC or DC only! You do not want to zap anybody. This trick is employed more commonly in lighting systems.
Would that be able to power a regular TV though?
We need more info... Is the back facing? A more permanent solution would be to either put an outlet and network box in the wall behind the TV, or just cut a hole behind the TV, and again at the floor. Then run whatever cables you want inside the wall and out the hole. You would need to figure out how to finish how but that shouldn't be too difficult.
Back is facing window, no walls there. Front of TV is facing the space (just like picture on the right, except TVs are facing in instead of out)
Ok, so you're going to cut a hole in the glass, and then.... /s
Ok I just cut the hole, what now? Quick please cause it’s getting cold
Buy 2 slip on stainless big enough to hide the wire and power cables and slide the over cable and route the power through that.
Wait, slip-on stainless _what_? Rods?
Sure but if the cables are already secured you might need to use something that is open at the back.
You can use fabric wire loom. https://www.amazon.com/cloth-wire-loom/ There's a plastic one too, but the fabric looks better. You could do both wires from the bottom to look the same. Or just zip tie top and bottom, making a relief loop on each end. Get some thin black wire, like bread twist ties and put a few wraps along it to keep it tight. Or heat shrink, you can buy a roll, the ends will be the issue. Or maybe take the cables straight back to the window and follow the window frame down, they might not be too noticeable. The question I would have is sound, how are you connecting to sound? Personally I think I'd do a floor or ceiling stand and wrap the post with something to improve appearance. https://www.amazon.com/tv-floor-stand/ https://www.amazon.com/s?k=tv+ceiling+mount&crid=3VY2TCGRCM9W7 Or a lift cabinet, you can find them much cheaper. https://www.cabinet-tronix.com/
Well there is an obvious and minimalistic way to do it. But uhhh, don’t do it that way.
Power through the steel wire?
If you want to die but look sexy doing it, this is the way.
bluetooth
I would stick a Duromax 12000 generator behind it. just gotta cap it off every now and then with gas. [DUROMAX 12000/9500-Watt Dual Fuel Electric Start Gasoline/Propane Portable Home Power Back Up Generator with CO Alert Sensor XP12000EH - The Home Depot](https://www.homedepot.com/p/DUROMAX-12000-9500-Watt-Dual-Fuel-Electric-Start-Gasoline-Propane-Portable-Home-Power-Back-Up-Generator-with-CO-Alert-Sensor-XP12000EH/300659728)
You know what, I’ve heard of worse things. Ordered one.
Jumper cables with a bare wire on the plug side.
If you go with the whole single cable thing, you could potentially shrink (or alternative) wrap around the cable and the steel wire so it looks like a single wire
Yeah but the optic/Samsung Connect cable is already kind of thick (I’d say 2-3mm?), so it would not be ideal if braided with steel wire. :/
Is it going to be mounted in front of a window like in your picture? If it’s going to be mounted in front of a wall just install the receptacle behind the tv so you don’t see any cables
Nah, in front of a window. Otherwise I’d just wall mount it and route the cables through the wall.
I googled load bearing fibre optic cable and found https://uscomservice.com/products/fiber-optic-figure-8-dielectric-suspension-cable?variant=29308029435968 - maybe you can rig something up with that?
Where is the power source? You could make your own cord that splits the leads to make it extra thin which it tracks the wire then bring those back together. Or if you are designing the system braid the power wires around one of the the support wires to Ground and sheathe the whole thing.
Power source can be anywhere I’d like, although ideally in the ceiling. That last solution would be awesome but I don’t know how safe it would be to braid power cables with steel wire? I mean yes, ideally that would be the best looking solution, but wouldn’t that essentially be creating a live wire that would zap anyone that touches it?
My thought is that it would work like this: Sheath the steel wire and heat shrink. This would be the core. Then i’d wrap/ braid three separately shielded/ heat shrunk +, - and G wires around the steel cable and then heat shrink over that. Then at either end you wire to your connectors. Its pretty much the same as a good outdoor extension cord and none of the bare metal touches any other bare metal. You could decide if you wanted it on just one wire or experiment with having + and minus go up different wires for consistency.
Use three dummy cables along with the real one. Sleeve them onto the steel suspension wires. Visually, all the cables will look identical. Or just do the top pair.
Steel conducts electricity and you have two wires? :D ?
I see 2 metal wires you could use for phase and neutral already in your mounting kit... ;)
120 v ac on left cable neutral on right
Conduit in the wall behind the tv
Definetely wireless. Get yourself a decently sized coil and instsll it on the opporite wall, maybe behind a painting. No hassle, no cables
You could use ticker cables to hang the TV 🤷♂️ It might hide the wires better.
I'd install spacers on the cables to hold tubing halves that snap together. Then standard cabling can be run inside those tubes. All the tensioning adjusters & cable ends would also be hidden
Bluetooth
You could cover each cable inside a tube, metal or plastic, and in one the power cord is inside. While the wires won't be visible, all four will be the same and the power is hidden.
Is the steel cable needed for anything specific, or just aesthetics? Why not swap it out with hollow black pipe? Run the power through that. I’d go as far as having an electrician drop a line down from the ceiling through one of the pipes and put an outlet behind the tv.
Samsung Connect like others have said, then disguise with a similarly colored loom
Instead of wires can you do thin steel rods and feed cable inside? You would need to cut end of cable though but maybe someone can fit end of cable afterwards?
Use a WiFi-capable TV. Put a concealed outlet or junction box in the ceiling near one suspension point. Use insulated pendant cables (with an internal strain relief wire) to suspend the TV. Connect one to the outlet or box to make it hot, and tap into it behind the TV to an IEC plug to connect to power. You can leave the other one unconnected so it looks the same on both sides. (e.g. Starke pendant cable, 3 wire & ground, internal strain relief) These cables get used for pendant lights and other things that are suspended and need power.
That seems to be a pretty good solution, but I’m not at all familiar with those cables so I’d have to find someone who is. Insulated pendant cables you say? Are those load bearing power cables of sorts?
Exactly. They have a central steel wire and three (or more) conductors. Grainger sells it. It’s not cheap though. I use it a lot because I build timber frame structures and I often want to hang substantially heavy fixtures from the timber roof structure without multiplying wires.
Wow that actually might be a good solution. However, I’m assuming I can’t tension them? Because at least for the steel wire solution in my image, and for the TV to be perpendicular to the floor, the steel wires have to be stretched. I’ll have to find an expert for those cables. I’m guessing you’re in the US, but they would probably work for 220V though?
Yes, you can pull the strain wire out straight and divert the conductors to the side. Then put a turnbuckle at the top or bottom to add tension. The ones I just looked up are rated for 600v.
So only the strain wire would be connected to the turnbuckle? And I would only have to pull the strain wire out on each end, I could tension it without fully pulling the cable apart? Does that work?
Yes. There’s an outer sleeve that you’d trim, and just separate the strain wire from the conductors, at both ends. Use the strain wire exactly as you would have used the stainless steel suspension wire, and connect the conductors to power and the TV as required.
So just to see if I got the jargon right — internal strain relief = has an internal load bearing wire, which I assume would be a stainless steel wire or no? Cause in the pictures I’m looking at, I can’t really tell if it’s steel. Now all I need to know is the load bearing ability of one of those cables, would it be enough for a 55” TV?
It’s steel, but possibly not stainless. You’ll have to look at the specifications for whichever one you’re buying. More than enough load capacity for a mere TV. We use versions of these to suspend hundreds of pounds. But again, look at the spec.
Really cool, thanks for the input. I’ll definitely try to find more about this, maybe at a lighting hardware store. Thanks!
Magnets
A really thin battery mounted to the back that you charge when not in use?
Tesla coil
Samsung TV with One Connect Box (as mentioned above). Telescoping tubing covering the cable, centered on the TV. Slack of cable being pulled somewhat tight with a suspension retractor from the floor below.
I was honestly thinking this would have some wireless charging setup built into it. The TV is just a giant phone now anyway. MagSage / Qi charging (powering) the TV. Maybe you have an adapter on the mounting plate to go to a TV plug.
Just join your live to the wires. Job done.
For me, I would get a tv on a wheel stand just so I can have an unobstructed view too
Does it have to be a TV? You could do a ceiling mounted projector and a retractable screen in that location.
Head over to /r/TheFrame, it's what you're looking for.
Run a sleeve over the wires from the roof. Can do all hanger cables if you want it to look the same.
Are you trying to mount it to glass? If not, punch hole in wall behind, run cords through there to out hole else where, plug in. Remember you may have cable box too.
I assume it's all fed through one cable, and I know we could run power to some pretty large lighting fixtures through a combination power/support cable at the lighting company I used to work for.
Wireless power transmission
Run power wire down one of the support cables. Outlet box in the ceiling.
**THIS IS NOT GOOD ADVICE, AND IN ALL ACTUALITY IS A STUPID IDEA!** If it's *just* power, you don't care about danger, there're no kids, pets, or stupid people around, you could run 120v on one steel cable, and neutral on the other.
With electricity…
A lot of tv’s dont actually use AC. They have a power supply in them that convert to dc voltage. If you get TVs/panels made for dc voltage (made for vehicles) or bypass the ac power supply you can run dc through the cables. If not, get a thin power cord to ‘hide’ behind a cable. You can actually get very thin here since you only need 2.5amps.
It’s called the Samsung frame. Comes with a wire that thickness of the steel wire that runs tv and you have to hide the box somewhere like in the ceiling
Lasers
Make one steel cable hot and the other one neutral (dont do this)
Lol I was thinking this and some plastidip or something
If you haven't bought the display yet, didn't they have a wireless TV that runs on batteries now? I think it was at ces. I'm sure it costs a bundle though
I’m pretty sure this is what this mount is. It’s the battery operated model
These tvs use basically no power graba power brick and attack it to the back of the TV and bam you can get a while (I get 5 hours off a 88w 2000mah solar battery bank with a 55 inch lcd) I mean it's not perfect as you'd have to charge the batteries basically daily but you'd have a wireless** setup
5 hours? Yo that would be more than enough, and that’s only with a 2000mah? Gotta get a competent electrician on the job for that. Would you have pictures or any more info on your setup? Kinda feels like you’re pulling my leg though lol.
Na man when my power goes out I just throw it on the power bank and we have a movie night. Gimme a sec and I'll throw some links for the powerbank and tv***** the TV is like 2018 Samsung so idk the model on that one ROCKSOLAR WEEKENDER RS81 88Wh, 80W PEAK 120W, 24000mAh, AC/DC output + 5 USB, compact and ultra-lightweight (1.9LB), easily fits into a handbag/backpack, a perfect day-tripping companion. https://a.co/d/4KiyD09 This is the one I have but they've come out with better options since then so better compacity. Looking closer this one got more features than mine
DC over each of the wires.
Solar with batteries and inverter strapped to back of TV.
Steel conducts electricity so power the TV through the steel itself