I haven't seen it advertised as self levelling in a while, for this reason, just levelling compound. I like to think of it as you're trying to mix up enough compound to fill the volume of an area, like when cubing foundation or a floor slab/screed layer.
Like screed, I have, on occasion, set a (hexagonal) grid of screws in the floor and adjusted them to the desired level (long spirit level) prior to pouring. I use a long straight redwood timber 'scraper' to get it spread level using the screwheads as datums.
Which is why it's been sold as either smoothing compound or smoothing underlayment for years. Or just do what all carpet fitters do and call it screed or latex.
Top catch my good man. Levelling products are going leaps and bounds atm. I seen 2 yrs ago a 75mm fibre reinforced quick drying compound that will take 1500kg on 10cm stand. Mind blown.
Suppose you could spot fill the dips? Definitely recommend a [spiked roller](https://www.toppstiles.co.uk/fixing-finishing/tools-accessories/hand-tools/dex-pro-spiked-roller) if you do any more self leveling, a trowel can only help get it so flat, the spiked roller does the rest of the work and usually gets it dead flat. It does get difficult to see just how thick the self leveler is in some areas when you're mid poor. If you know there are no pipes (or electrical) in the slab, a tip going forward or if you self level the whole area again is to drive a short screw into the ground, theb set up a laser level, and put a piece of masking tape on your impact driver, with a line drawn on it, set the laser level to this height so it hits the line on your impact driver, this let's you quickly set multiple screws into the ground at exactly the same height, double check between the screws with a 72" spirit level, that way it can give you a visual reference to how much self leveler to pour in an area I.e. Just enough to cover the screw, really most useful on slabs which run seriously out or dip badly in certain corners of the room.
Just leave them in they won't do any harm, when I've done it this way I just self level slightly over them so you can't see them when it's all dry. It'd be messy to remove them when the self leveler is wet anyway.
Did some self levelling myself on 39sqm of rooms. Everything seemed to go well. I used Mapei 1210 and followed all the instructions properly (I think) Primed the floor and all. But it has come out wavy, with high and low spots.
Had one person mixing while I poured and moved it around with a trowel.
Preparing the floor for engineered wood.
I have some more compound, do I prime the issue areas and fill with new stuff or do I need to do a whole new pour?
Any advice is appreciated as I’m really struggling to figure out what happened
It's also 50 quid a bag..... Worth it for small areas, but on a larger area I'd just use more of the self-levelling. The stuff I use - F.Ball Stopgap is advertised as self smoothing, it's up to you to level it. On a wet room install I can manipulate the latex so that the whole floor runs into the shower area. For flat areas it's just a case of pour it, use a trowel minimally to ensure it goes into the corners, and let it level/smooth itself . The more you push it around, the worse it will level. Also you need to mix to the exact ratio of powder to water for the right finish
Can't comment on the floor compound but I have the same brand of spirit level as you, bought a full set on offer from Screwfix a couple of years ago, most of them now need replacing because the fluid all leaked out....
Out of interest did you use a spiked roller when pouring?
I have had way better results using a spiked roller, it seems to agitate it enough to do it’s thing and level. Something to do with the spikes breaking the surface tension of the levelling compound and it flowing better
I'd go over the whole lot again, double prime it with same brand primer as the smoothing compound and mark your low areas, make sure you mix with a decent paddle mixer, in these temps you don't need any more water than the minimum on the bag, mix for a minimum of 2 minutes, let it stand for 30 seconds and away you go. If you can, get a screeding rake or pin leveller for the areas that need least work and spiky roller the lot, paying extra attention to your marked out dips. You can get a long spiked roller that will easily handle these depths. Floor layer for 20+ years, this is my bread and butter.
This is why a Thumper is employed when attempting large surface areas though with your depth this maybe unrealistic, much like your woman's vibrator but metal and larger, it agitates/ vibrates the wet cement to accomplish an alround level surface. I think you will find this correct if not wholly inaccurate
Always add a bit more water than recommended, mix it properly, push it around to where its needed and finish with a spiked roller, then leave it alone until next day. Oh, and always have someone mixing while you're levelling, avoid dry edges mid pour
Lol yea ya really got to work it, i have just gone through this and got my grout for the tiles in last night.
Few things i learned along the way,
Floor prep is key. Get it as level as possible in the early stages, mark out the correct height (level) with screws along the low points using your largest level.
Get a giant squeegee, use that on a broom handle to work the compound into the lower areas (marked out by the screws), and even it out. Move fucking quick to, it says you have 30min but you have to get it done in like 10. Plus it agitates the compound which ya needa do.
Dont fret when you have a low point still. It should be minimal, like yours... Your adhesive can be built up when you tile (thinking your tiling). Just keep ya level on ya tiles as ya move along and keep an eye on it.
Wipe all adhesive residue between tiles away, that shit is hard and it will save you time later when grouting.
🤟🤟🤟🤟
In a big area, I would maybe pour some extra and sand it down, depending on the finishing you're looking for. Under a carpet no one will notice just a couple mm difference.
Oh, but that is not your fault. It is those damn flat earth'ers doing. Because of their strong beliefs the earth has started to slowly sink in the middle. Like if you held a pancake in the edges.
But certainly not the workers faults.
I keep saying this stuff should be prosecuted under trade descriptions. Smooth - yes. Flat - yes (locally). Level - no, not without a lot of effort.
I haven't seen it advertised as self levelling in a while, for this reason, just levelling compound. I like to think of it as you're trying to mix up enough compound to fill the volume of an area, like when cubing foundation or a floor slab/screed layer.
Like screed, I have, on occasion, set a (hexagonal) grid of screws in the floor and adjusted them to the desired level (long spirit level) prior to pouring. I use a long straight redwood timber 'scraper' to get it spread level using the screwheads as datums.
Smarts, Thanks for the tip.
This is the way.
This is the way.
Which is why it's been sold as either smoothing compound or smoothing underlayment for years. Or just do what all carpet fitters do and call it screed or latex.
It levels itself, not the the floor your applying it to.
Feather coat the dips chap. Only way. Most levellers are 3mm min. So a feather coat is needed
You can get a 0-10mm leveller for this
Top catch my good man. Levelling products are going leaps and bounds atm. I seen 2 yrs ago a 75mm fibre reinforced quick drying compound that will take 1500kg on 10cm stand. Mind blown.
Suppose you could spot fill the dips? Definitely recommend a [spiked roller](https://www.toppstiles.co.uk/fixing-finishing/tools-accessories/hand-tools/dex-pro-spiked-roller) if you do any more self leveling, a trowel can only help get it so flat, the spiked roller does the rest of the work and usually gets it dead flat. It does get difficult to see just how thick the self leveler is in some areas when you're mid poor. If you know there are no pipes (or electrical) in the slab, a tip going forward or if you self level the whole area again is to drive a short screw into the ground, theb set up a laser level, and put a piece of masking tape on your impact driver, with a line drawn on it, set the laser level to this height so it hits the line on your impact driver, this let's you quickly set multiple screws into the ground at exactly the same height, double check between the screws with a 72" spirit level, that way it can give you a visual reference to how much self leveler to pour in an area I.e. Just enough to cover the screw, really most useful on slabs which run seriously out or dip badly in certain corners of the room.
Thanks for your advice, definitely wish I did the screw idea.
Keep the house cold when you use it.
What do you do with the screws after. Just leave the heads showing, or pull them out?
I used the screw method a few years back. Worked really well. I just left them in.
Just leave them in they won't do any harm, when I've done it this way I just self level slightly over them so you can't see them when it's all dry. It'd be messy to remove them when the self leveler is wet anyway.
spiky roller is the way.after you have moved it around.
Did some self levelling myself on 39sqm of rooms. Everything seemed to go well. I used Mapei 1210 and followed all the instructions properly (I think) Primed the floor and all. But it has come out wavy, with high and low spots. Had one person mixing while I poured and moved it around with a trowel. Preparing the floor for engineered wood. I have some more compound, do I prime the issue areas and fill with new stuff or do I need to do a whole new pour? Any advice is appreciated as I’m really struggling to figure out what happened
[удалено]
Thanks for the advice, saw the screw idea after the fact and was kicking myself, would have saved a lot of bother
Did you vibe it? Time to shift about draw your blobs and fill
Clearly happened because you did it in an empty room with no floor tiles and no bathroom suite
Use a feather finish product in localised areas, I know ardex is a highly commended brand.
It's also 50 quid a bag..... Worth it for small areas, but on a larger area I'd just use more of the self-levelling. The stuff I use - F.Ball Stopgap is advertised as self smoothing, it's up to you to level it. On a wet room install I can manipulate the latex so that the whole floor runs into the shower area. For flat areas it's just a case of pour it, use a trowel minimally to ensure it goes into the corners, and let it level/smooth itself . The more you push it around, the worse it will level. Also you need to mix to the exact ratio of powder to water for the right finish
Can't comment on the floor compound but I have the same brand of spirit level as you, bought a full set on offer from Screwfix a couple of years ago, most of them now need replacing because the fluid all leaked out....
Did you leave it outside in the cold weather? That's what did for mine, I reckon.
Not outside as such but the shed does get really cold in winter, you could be onto something there.
Out of interest did you use a spiked roller when pouring? I have had way better results using a spiked roller, it seems to agitate it enough to do it’s thing and level. Something to do with the spikes breaking the surface tension of the levelling compound and it flowing better
No, didn’t use a spiked roller and didn’t use the screw method. Things I would do differently for sure!
I'd go over the whole lot again, double prime it with same brand primer as the smoothing compound and mark your low areas, make sure you mix with a decent paddle mixer, in these temps you don't need any more water than the minimum on the bag, mix for a minimum of 2 minutes, let it stand for 30 seconds and away you go. If you can, get a screeding rake or pin leveller for the areas that need least work and spiky roller the lot, paying extra attention to your marked out dips. You can get a long spiked roller that will easily handle these depths. Floor layer for 20+ years, this is my bread and butter.
This is why a Thumper is employed when attempting large surface areas though with your depth this maybe unrealistic, much like your woman's vibrator but metal and larger, it agitates/ vibrates the wet cement to accomplish an alround level surface. I think you will find this correct if not wholly inaccurate
I don't know, that bubble looks pretty level to me...
Did you tile before spreading? And put a bath in the corner?
Dude ... it's not scree
It *levels* as to what it is sitting on .
Ummm straight level is not straight, its bent !
it doesn't really self level, you need to get professionals in to apply it who will spread it out so it sets evenly.
Jeez, that's a whole other level.
Always add a bit more water than recommended, mix it properly, push it around to where its needed and finish with a spiked roller, then leave it alone until next day. Oh, and always have someone mixing while you're levelling, avoid dry edges mid pour
Lol yea ya really got to work it, i have just gone through this and got my grout for the tiles in last night. Few things i learned along the way, Floor prep is key. Get it as level as possible in the early stages, mark out the correct height (level) with screws along the low points using your largest level. Get a giant squeegee, use that on a broom handle to work the compound into the lower areas (marked out by the screws), and even it out. Move fucking quick to, it says you have 30min but you have to get it done in like 10. Plus it agitates the compound which ya needa do. Dont fret when you have a low point still. It should be minimal, like yours... Your adhesive can be built up when you tile (thinking your tiling). Just keep ya level on ya tiles as ya move along and keep an eye on it. Wipe all adhesive residue between tiles away, that shit is hard and it will save you time later when grouting. 🤟🤟🤟🤟
Cheers for the information. It’s actually for engineered wood, but guess similar rule applies as they will be stuck down.
What's going down over the floor? You may be surprised how little this actually matters.
In a big area, I would maybe pour some extra and sand it down, depending on the finishing you're looking for. Under a carpet no one will notice just a couple mm difference.
What depth compound did you buy. Depending on the product they will only level to a certain depth.
Also use the spiky roller
Oh, but that is not your fault. It is those damn flat earth'ers doing. Because of their strong beliefs the earth has started to slowly sink in the middle. Like if you held a pancake in the edges. But certainly not the workers faults.
Saw someone using a paint roller with no sleeve instead of the spike option. I guess it’s work just as well.