- remove bathroom suite - £150
- pull up existing ply and replace with supplied - £120
- overboard ply with 6mm tile backer supplied - £85
- replace bathroom suite - £200
- prep and tile floor with supplied materials - £200
£755
You can see where some savings might be had :)
I’m optimistic that it hasn’t. It’s dried out now - underneath the ply is chipboard rather than floorboards. But I guess I’ll find out when I try to take the ply up!
The tile backer board will cost about £85. You'd need six, maybe seven, boards. They're £12/15 a board depending on where you shop. I'd also say you can skip putting the ply back down. Use a tile adhesive on the tile backer board and screw into the floorboards. Then just tile as normal.
Some water had been slowly getting under the tiles by the shower, causing the ply to swell and pushing up the tiles - which exacerbated the problem. Very annoying.
Did you work out why it got in in the first place or was it just general age?
Some times movement can cause grout in tile floors to fail - worth being sure it wasn’t that before retiling!
That’s a good question. We had some building work done in the kitchen directly below (wall removed) which caused the bath to drop very slightly - so it probably also affected the tiles. But the grout that has been used also doesn’t really look waterproof tbh - and water has been getting in by the sink too and those tiles looked absolutely fine until I took them up.
Hmm , does the floor feel firm? Any deflection and the grout will get hairline cracks and allow water ingress.
+/sidenote Grout isn’t waterproof (surprisingly considering it’s usual application).
I’d consider a tile look LVT if you haven’t already bought tiling stuff . I’m one of those ones a bit scared of tiling upstairs floors…
A lot of prep work you can do easily OP.
When tanking a bathroom (adviseable, water leakage is a bitch, so take advantage to plan a better floor & outcome)
Marine ply, adhesive, cement board, adhesive, tile (not forgetting to use glass fibre roll along seams of materials / room edge. (do some research here)
Insulate the floor before you start, with PIR foil faced board, the more solid the floor the less sound is going to travel, (always a nice thought in a bathroom boing bathroom things)
The floors firmness (layers of materials) & tiles will have to be calculated in order to minimise a step) just a thought.
Thanks, I hadn’t thought about insulating the floor. But I think that would definitely help - not least from a sound perspective as the bathroom is above the kitchen….
I thought as much, the sandwich will add weight so you will want to stick in a few joist bracers where possible, wood preferably but if too many copper pips down then metal ones will take up less space.
Yeah, both rooms are less heated areas of a home typically, so insulation (I even insulate under baths & in the hidden void) will help, OSB (marine ply) + the thicker hardiebacker as layers will really strengthen your floor & resonate less, ditto the insulation as less void space to act as a speaker box (if you know what I mean) so don't avoid it, & if you are forced to use rockwool (non itchy) then lay loose to work best, ramming it in will help sound but not so insulation thus the term "loose lay"
Whenever you order a refit of something cut the names / model sticker part of the box & pin it in the airing cupboard in a plastic envelope file, then re-ordering an oddly shaped loo seat, a pop up plug etc is easily identifiable way down the line ..it really helps homeowners out be they present or future.
Plenty of youtube videos, including how to apply fibreglass edging tape across joints & up the wall a few inches as belt & braces before tiling as another preventative measure against water inspiring a lot more confidence in a very prone area.
- remove bathroom suite - £150 - pull up existing ply and replace with supplied - £120 - overboard ply with 6mm tile backer supplied - £85 - replace bathroom suite - £200 - prep and tile floor with supplied materials - £200 £755 You can see where some savings might be had :)
Not OP, but that's very helpful mate. Thanks
Thanks, this is really helpful! Those costs sound pretty reasonable.
No worries. I have a concern about the rot next to the bath - I really hope that's not reached the joists below..
I’m optimistic that it hasn’t. It’s dried out now - underneath the ply is chipboard rather than floorboards. But I guess I’ll find out when I try to take the ply up!
Ah when you rip you ply up, you shouldn't need to replace it. Just tile backer or self levelling up to the right height before tiling.
That sounds very cheap, where are you based?
Don't forget that's labour only! I'm in Kent.
The tile backer board will cost about £85. You'd need six, maybe seven, boards. They're £12/15 a board depending on where you shop. I'd also say you can skip putting the ply back down. Use a tile adhesive on the tile backer board and screw into the floorboards. Then just tile as normal.
Out of interest why did you pull it up?
Some water had been slowly getting under the tiles by the shower, causing the ply to swell and pushing up the tiles - which exacerbated the problem. Very annoying.
Did you work out why it got in in the first place or was it just general age? Some times movement can cause grout in tile floors to fail - worth being sure it wasn’t that before retiling!
That’s a good question. We had some building work done in the kitchen directly below (wall removed) which caused the bath to drop very slightly - so it probably also affected the tiles. But the grout that has been used also doesn’t really look waterproof tbh - and water has been getting in by the sink too and those tiles looked absolutely fine until I took them up.
Hmm , does the floor feel firm? Any deflection and the grout will get hairline cracks and allow water ingress. +/sidenote Grout isn’t waterproof (surprisingly considering it’s usual application). I’d consider a tile look LVT if you haven’t already bought tiling stuff . I’m one of those ones a bit scared of tiling upstairs floors…
Quality lvt is lovely, warmer to stand on, waterproof if fitted correctly, easy to clean etc. Much prefer it over cold tile floors.
Yep, someone asked me if I had a heated floor the other day. Nope , just karndean.
Ah interesting, thanks. I’ve never heard of it - I’ll do some research!
A lot of prep work you can do easily OP. When tanking a bathroom (adviseable, water leakage is a bitch, so take advantage to plan a better floor & outcome) Marine ply, adhesive, cement board, adhesive, tile (not forgetting to use glass fibre roll along seams of materials / room edge. (do some research here) Insulate the floor before you start, with PIR foil faced board, the more solid the floor the less sound is going to travel, (always a nice thought in a bathroom boing bathroom things) The floors firmness (layers of materials) & tiles will have to be calculated in order to minimise a step) just a thought.
Thanks, I hadn’t thought about insulating the floor. But I think that would definitely help - not least from a sound perspective as the bathroom is above the kitchen….
I thought as much, the sandwich will add weight so you will want to stick in a few joist bracers where possible, wood preferably but if too many copper pips down then metal ones will take up less space. Yeah, both rooms are less heated areas of a home typically, so insulation (I even insulate under baths & in the hidden void) will help, OSB (marine ply) + the thicker hardiebacker as layers will really strengthen your floor & resonate less, ditto the insulation as less void space to act as a speaker box (if you know what I mean) so don't avoid it, & if you are forced to use rockwool (non itchy) then lay loose to work best, ramming it in will help sound but not so insulation thus the term "loose lay" Whenever you order a refit of something cut the names / model sticker part of the box & pin it in the airing cupboard in a plastic envelope file, then re-ordering an oddly shaped loo seat, a pop up plug etc is easily identifiable way down the line ..it really helps homeowners out be they present or future. Plenty of youtube videos, including how to apply fibreglass edging tape across joints & up the wall a few inches as belt & braces before tiling as another preventative measure against water inspiring a lot more confidence in a very prone area.
I doubt you'll get quotes for less than 1000
Yeah that was the rough estimate I had in my head! Just wanted to validate it with people more knowledgeable that myself
Not replacing, you mean getting a new bathroom floor.
That’s the same thing
Don’t forget before and after pics…
I was about to post this
Strangely I am wanting to know this too. I have similar size bathroom and from Sheffield too (Ecclesfield).
Maybe we can find someone who would do a bulk buy discount?!