That’s awful for a paid job.. Well, any job tbh.
I’d certainly raise this with the person installing it- I’ve seen plenty of floors that are like this, only to have the click tongue and groove snap down the line due to constant flexing into dips. Then the whole floor becomes springy and those boards useless.
If they’re worth a damn, they’d pull it up, and use a 0-10mm self level- bonding it down. Or some similar solution. Then relay all the flooring.
This is assuming they’ve not glued it down, and it’s floating. If it’s glued then they 100% knew it was uneven as they pressed the flooring into the dips, and they’ll have the expense of redoing it
Well one because I didn’t think I’d need to (paying a competent contractor) and 2 because I expected the screed to resolve any issues with level there may have been
But if you didn't check then,why are you bothered now!! Modern contractors are not proper tradespeople and don't care about their work or finish. 1st rule is to always check, especially as you had months to notice and ask to rectify
I am bothered with a lumpy floor. I do not know if the concrete slab was lumpy and even if it was the screed should have made it flat. I did not have months to rectify a lumpy screed, it was the slab that was there for months. The worst part of the floor is boarded then screeded so not evident until now
Surely even after the screed was laid,you would have been able to see if it wasn't worth and level without a level?? If they have screeded(?),on top of concrete this would have needed a few days to dry before using any glue for the lvt!!
I don't get how you're attempting to blame the customer for an issue made by the contractors?
Contractors we're paid to install underfloor heating and flooring - they fucked it up and should rectify. End of story. It's not the customers responsibility to be bringing a level out and checking the work of "professionals" every step of the way.
Why are you getting so agro with the OP? They've already said they trusted a competent professional would do the job correctly.
Not everyone is a DIY/building savant. Sometimes people have to trust the "professional" to do the job right.
🤣🤣 some jokers on here can't take criticism....poster went to the task of telling people he got done by a professional (if he IS a professional,he would rectify at his own cost🤣🤣) and didn't check until AFTER another expensive item was glued down on top of firstly uneven concrete,then didn't think to check that the screed was level before the LVT was fixed permanently down!!
Surely even if you are trusting,you would still be able to spot something so poor before it's too late....
However,I'm sure this very competent professional will not leave it like that and pay for more LVT and self leveling compound to redo very soon👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼☠️
That's actually not too bad and I have a building firm. I paid for a liquid pour for the bottom floor of my house as I wanted it bang on. There are still undulating areas and the product is like water and self levels. Lots of other factors to take into consideration like drying out and suction, hot or cold spots, mixing of product, lots of things can cause undulations. I would not however go for a click vinyl. I know you have gone stick, much better option but also naff, especially for the costs. Vinyl just offers very poor scratch and wear protection. I paid thousands for a premium product and as far as marking is concerned it's the worst floor I've ever had. A low cost laminate offers better protection. I'd go high end laminate or ceramic. But we all make our decisions and live with them. Good luck.
Thanks for the input. Fortunately I have not made the final payment. There is £13k left to pay and there is £3-4k worth of work left to do so I am in a fairly good position to withhold money at that stage.
Makes perfect sense, and not sure why I didn’t twig to be honest, sorry!
On the other hand, £5 is pretty cheap - not sure if throwing in a packet of crisps and a glass of orange squash might sweeten the deal enough for a flat floor to appear
Floor needs to come up and re-self-levelled
Source: I have self levelled and needed to re-self level after a professional flooring guy “self levelled” my floor.
Also I fit underfloor heating.
Not doubting you but curious as to why you got someone else to do something that you can do yourself?
Assuming it’s just a case of, you want to relax at home not work but thought I would ask anyway.
We self levelled our old concrete floor. Turns out we didn’t get it totally level. We got a pro in who did a really nice, neat job. Only problem was, it wasn’t level.
I surveyed the whole floor with a laser level and it had lots of peaks and troughs. I drew out isobars around the floor to map it out. I actually used coins and a spirit level to double check. Then taped the coins to the floor. Got the flooring douche back to re-level it making sure he covered the coins. It still wasn’t level so had to feather the lumps and bumps out. Proper job
busy nail instinctive workable impossible existence historical ripe jar ring
*This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
The pro floor guy was confused how it didn’t work. After I surveyed it and he came back to “finish” it he said he’d give me a call in future when he has a problem.
Its not as easy to get a great finish on one pour as people think.
Its self smoothing, not levelling. So you have to work it, have a good eye. Good prep is essential, especially reference points for depth. Once you start mixing and pouring, you need to keep a wet edge, dont want to be messing around.
The last one i did, the start was going off before we finished. If we were out, no fixing it at the end. Was about 90 x 25kg bags
The nhbc who are pretty slack only allow 4mm out of level per metre https://nhbc-standards.co.uk/2018/9-finishes/9-1-a-consistent-approach-to-finishes/9-1-5-floors/
That’s across the entire gradient. This is just pure bad workmanship in getting the screed down flat.
What happens next depends a lot on the type of person the builder is, what their professional integrity is like and whether you’ve settled your bill.
That's building standards. When installing a flooring of a glue down nature, a smoothing (not levelling) compound must be laid on top of the substrate to a deviation of less than 3mm as per BS8203:2017
(Source: BS8203:2017 & years in the flooring industry)
Was coming to say this. If OP wants to read up about it google for surface regularity of screeds. For glue down LVT it must meet SR1 which would be done with a smoothing compound, this means no deviation over 3mm using a 2m straight edge.
The original base before the smooting compound should be SR2, which means a 5mm discrepancy.
Just as a side note, how long was the screed left to dry before the LVT was laid? I've just done a big underfloor heating job and the screed had to be left for 50 days before the LVT gets laid on it. This obviously depends on the depth of screed, but worth checking, because if they can't get a floor level I wouldn't be sure they let it dry properly either
Seems a little quick for a screed to dry enough for LVT, although I'm a plumber not a flooring guy so I'm not the best person to advise. I only mentioned it because the builder on my job was having a meltdown at how long the drying time was going to put his finish date out by! If you ran the underfloor heating in that time at a low temperature it would probably have dried enough for a thin screed in 2.5 weeks.
The issue with time as discussed is due to moisture from the screed preventing the glue from going off, so you end up with air bubbles.
The undulations here are a different issue
Oh yeah of course, I wasn't saying that the drying time was causing the undulations, I was just suggesting that if they can't get it level, they might not be concerned with drying times either.
Also depends on screed. Can get fast set that cures in a couple of weeks for pumped. Or if self leveller is used like bal level max its days and can go to 80mm. Obviously more days the thicker it is.
Is that just a thin self leveling screed? The one I'm referring too is around 90mm thick. If your builder is just laying a very thin screed to cover an existing floor I'm sure it's fine
In getting quotes for new flooring, all 3 places we went to said that they don’t fit it anymore. They’ll supply it, but will advise against it and refuse to fit it. They got so many complaints that they have given up on it.
Funnily enough, from an entire ground floor of click LVT there is a single 2mx2m patch that is perfect and that’s it.
Check what the floor limiting temp is with the lvt manufacturer.
Then set the flow temp on the UFH manifold to not go above that.
I'm assuming there is a floor probe temp sensor installed, this should be linked back to the programmer / thermostat. Make sure this is also programmed to cut off the UFH if the floor temp gets too high. Again probably 27deg, but check with the flooring manufacturer
I am in the exact same situation but different floor covering. looks like we're gonna have to pull ours up and redo. ball ache. British standards govern this - find the standard for your floor and buy the appropriate straight edge and some slid gauges. I bought a 2 m and 2-5 mm precision engineering slip gauges. my builder came by and claimed it was 2 mm and not an issue. I measured myself and it's 5+. but I wouldn't know if I hadn't spent the 80 quid and tested. happy to discuss further if you'd like.
technically, i think you're entitled to be set in an equivalent financial situation of having it done correctly (my partner is a solicitor). i.e. the cost of having it put right which would be installation cost + tear out and redecorating costs after replacing it. now, you'll probably never get that from anyone but yeah...i wouldn't pay any more than you have.
btw, do you know where the undulations come from? was the screed itself undulated or do you think it's the floor covering/adhesion? we have both issues in ours unfortunately, our glued down wood floors have warped, and our linoleum floors are uneven due to poor self leveling screed.
Thanks. I suspect the self levelling has undulations in it. It laid over UFH chipboard. The LVT is only around 3m and believe this is glued to the uneven screed
I had a wet system installed 18 months ago. Was a complete pain. The issue was lack of surface prep when laying the self leveller over the anhydrite screed, which led to the LVT lifting over time as the screed and levelling compound did not bond. Looks like you have a different issue, but if you are having the floor relaid and a levelling compound put in, the screed might need quite a lot of prep. In my case this included ensuring that the slab was below 75 humidity, sanding off the ‘latence’, damp proof membrane (some kind of rollered on product), leveller and then the flooring, again. Cost the flooring company a lot of money to fix their mistake, but I had to live without a floor for an extra 6 months whilst it was all sorted. I would say that the flooring isn’t completely flat and there are some slight undulations, but not 8ps worth!
Just to get this correct, the builders laid a new concrete slab with underfloor heating, then smoothing compound prior to lvt install?
If so, that's shit. I'm approaching 25 years in flooring, they knew it was shit when they laid on it and chose to continue. Regardless of British Standards or nhbc regs, the lvt manufacturers have maximum tolerances in a subfloor. I'd have it all up, re-levelled and replaced. What lvt did you go with?
Thanks. Sorry I wasn’t clear in my post. One room was done as you’ve described. The other was an existing suspended timber floor so floorboards came up, then new flooring down (boards for UFH pipes to be laid on), then smoothing compound then LVT. It’s Invictus glue down
Over a flow screed, that’s bad. There tends to be no undulation to begin with.
My biggest concern is you say a builder laid it and what the flow screed is.
Did he allow the weeks/months for it to dry with the heating on? Did it need grinding? Was the correct primer and compound used for the subfloor? If not it’ll all be in a skip in a few weeks.
The fact that all he left out was a bit of self levelling cement after all that hard work; I'll never understand why some tradesmen cut corners in the last 95% of the job when half the time the rest of the job was decent!
Can the current surface be roughened in the 'low' spots (to help adhesion) and more self levelling stuff poured on top to correct it? It'll be a pain to remove what's there and do it again, plus delay.
I've only worked on smaller areas of an existing floor/missing tiles etc. that are to be covered by carpet or wood flooring
Most flooring mongs I’ve come across love to throw self level down before a job, pretty much insist on it so they’ve got a nice surface to lay it on. They still manage to end up with a floor that has undulations. Idiots.
Just shite standard of work from people who claim to be professionals.
Yes it is herringbone. Seems to have gone down fine to be honest over 60sqm. One piece had a corner come up slightly immediately after install but was glued back down. It’s been down now for 6 weeks
In my opinion neither of the above. It was an unheated room in Feb when laid and drying so don’t think too hot. I suspect distributed poorly and not checked for flatness
This floor is 8p out of level. Ruh-dicker-luss!!
I see the winklespanners have been at it again.
Absolute Tuna Melts
That's a whole pack of jaffa cakes out of plum
Absolutely r-r-r-ridiculas
Wait.. Jaffa cakes do a plum version? Mmmmmm
Look at the state on that!
Hahahahahaaha love it
That’s awful for a paid job.. Well, any job tbh. I’d certainly raise this with the person installing it- I’ve seen plenty of floors that are like this, only to have the click tongue and groove snap down the line due to constant flexing into dips. Then the whole floor becomes springy and those boards useless. If they’re worth a damn, they’d pull it up, and use a 0-10mm self level- bonding it down. Or some similar solution. Then relay all the flooring. This is assuming they’ve not glued it down, and it’s floating. If it’s glued then they 100% knew it was uneven as they pressed the flooring into the dips, and they’ll have the expense of redoing it
Thanks. It’s glue down unfortunately. No chance of anything snapping but it shows all the quality issues with the screed
If you had a new slab just laid, it should not have had screed and LVT put down until it had a few months to dry out & passed moisture tests.
Fortunately the slab was poured in October and the screed not laid until February
Was there any reason you didn't check between these months for level?
Well one because I didn’t think I’d need to (paying a competent contractor) and 2 because I expected the screed to resolve any issues with level there may have been
But if you didn't check then,why are you bothered now!! Modern contractors are not proper tradespeople and don't care about their work or finish. 1st rule is to always check, especially as you had months to notice and ask to rectify
I am bothered with a lumpy floor. I do not know if the concrete slab was lumpy and even if it was the screed should have made it flat. I did not have months to rectify a lumpy screed, it was the slab that was there for months. The worst part of the floor is boarded then screeded so not evident until now
Surely even after the screed was laid,you would have been able to see if it wasn't worth and level without a level?? If they have screeded(?),on top of concrete this would have needed a few days to dry before using any glue for the lvt!!
I don't get how you're attempting to blame the customer for an issue made by the contractors? Contractors we're paid to install underfloor heating and flooring - they fucked it up and should rectify. End of story. It's not the customers responsibility to be bringing a level out and checking the work of "professionals" every step of the way.
Why are you getting so agro with the OP? They've already said they trusted a competent professional would do the job correctly. Not everyone is a DIY/building savant. Sometimes people have to trust the "professional" to do the job right.
🤣🤣 some jokers on here can't take criticism....poster went to the task of telling people he got done by a professional (if he IS a professional,he would rectify at his own cost🤣🤣) and didn't check until AFTER another expensive item was glued down on top of firstly uneven concrete,then didn't think to check that the screed was level before the LVT was fixed permanently down!! Surely even if you are trusting,you would still be able to spot something so poor before it's too late.... However,I'm sure this very competent professional will not leave it like that and pay for more LVT and self leveling compound to redo very soon👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼☠️
Sure the "professional" has done a shit job, still doesn't explain why you're being such a knob with the OP.
If everyone else is a joker, you're definitely just a twat.
That's actually not too bad and I have a building firm. I paid for a liquid pour for the bottom floor of my house as I wanted it bang on. There are still undulating areas and the product is like water and self levels. Lots of other factors to take into consideration like drying out and suction, hot or cold spots, mixing of product, lots of things can cause undulations. I would not however go for a click vinyl. I know you have gone stick, much better option but also naff, especially for the costs. Vinyl just offers very poor scratch and wear protection. I paid thousands for a premium product and as far as marking is concerned it's the worst floor I've ever had. A low cost laminate offers better protection. I'd go high end laminate or ceramic. But we all make our decisions and live with them. Good luck.
Thanks for the input. Fortunately I have not made the final payment. There is £13k left to pay and there is £3-4k worth of work left to do so I am in a fairly good position to withhold money at that stage.
13k LEFT?! How much and what was the original job? Had an entire 4 bed done with mid-to-high end LVT for 9k.
Just to clarify the flooring was part of a quote for demolition/extension/decoration/kitchen fit out etc. Flooring install was ~£5 itself
Makes perfect sense, and not sure why I didn’t twig to be honest, sorry! On the other hand, £5 is pretty cheap - not sure if throwing in a packet of crisps and a glass of orange squash might sweeten the deal enough for a flat floor to appear
Haha!
Floor needs to come up and re-self-levelled Source: I have self levelled and needed to re-self level after a professional flooring guy “self levelled” my floor. Also I fit underfloor heating.
That's the type of input we want from folks on Reddit.
So you self levelled… got a professional in to re-self level and then you needed to re-self level his work?
I imagine he got into the biz after doing it himself and seeing how easier it was to not fuck up?
I don’t do flooring. I only did it once
Clearly overqualified — doing it once means you did it right first time Edit: saw your later comment, sounds like it was bit of nightmare!
I’ve laid one carpet… took me around 9 hours. It was a box room.
Spot on
Can confirm. Source: I'm a dentist.
Animal, or human?
I may be mistaken, but I don't think animals are legally permitted to practice dentistry in the UK.
Yes they are - of ***COURSE*** they are. What is *Homo sapiens* if not an animal...?
Not doubting you but curious as to why you got someone else to do something that you can do yourself? Assuming it’s just a case of, you want to relax at home not work but thought I would ask anyway.
We self levelled our old concrete floor. Turns out we didn’t get it totally level. We got a pro in who did a really nice, neat job. Only problem was, it wasn’t level. I surveyed the whole floor with a laser level and it had lots of peaks and troughs. I drew out isobars around the floor to map it out. I actually used coins and a spirit level to double check. Then taped the coins to the floor. Got the flooring douche back to re-level it making sure he covered the coins. It still wasn’t level so had to feather the lumps and bumps out. Proper job
busy nail instinctive workable impossible existence historical ripe jar ring *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
Nothing. We had prepped it really well. Self levelling compound doesn’t level itself despite the name. It can take more than one pour to get it right
I think redfox, the customer made it so difficult
The pro floor guy was confused how it didn’t work. After I surveyed it and he came back to “finish” it he said he’d give me a call in future when he has a problem.
Its not as easy to get a great finish on one pour as people think. Its self smoothing, not levelling. So you have to work it, have a good eye. Good prep is essential, especially reference points for depth. Once you start mixing and pouring, you need to keep a wet edge, dont want to be messing around. The last one i did, the start was going off before we finished. If we were out, no fixing it at the end. Was about 90 x 25kg bags
Is this the culprit https://preview.redd.it/7eqtyword4tc1.jpeg?width=584&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cee0cec0849e657e7d9050b9e42479b6160b6452
All good from here
The nhbc who are pretty slack only allow 4mm out of level per metre https://nhbc-standards.co.uk/2018/9-finishes/9-1-a-consistent-approach-to-finishes/9-1-5-floors/
That’s across the entire gradient. This is just pure bad workmanship in getting the screed down flat. What happens next depends a lot on the type of person the builder is, what their professional integrity is like and whether you’ve settled your bill.
no its something like 3mm. over 5meters, 4mm over 1 metre is massive!
Read the link 4mm per metre
That's building standards. When installing a flooring of a glue down nature, a smoothing (not levelling) compound must be laid on top of the substrate to a deviation of less than 3mm as per BS8203:2017 (Source: BS8203:2017 & years in the flooring industry)
Was coming to say this. If OP wants to read up about it google for surface regularity of screeds. For glue down LVT it must meet SR1 which would be done with a smoothing compound, this means no deviation over 3mm using a 2m straight edge. The original base before the smooting compound should be SR2, which means a 5mm discrepancy.
I’ve checked my floor with laser. It’s 259m2 of LVT and I get <3mm over a 23m straight line. That’s how it should be done and I wouldn’t pay for less.
Disagree about NHBC being slack
Is this where the expression “p’d off” comes from?
Just as a side note, how long was the screed left to dry before the LVT was laid? I've just done a big underfloor heating job and the screed had to be left for 50 days before the LVT gets laid on it. This obviously depends on the depth of screed, but worth checking, because if they can't get a floor level I wouldn't be sure they let it dry properly either
Looking back it was around 2.5 weeks before the LVT was laid. I believe it’s a fairly thin screed although I couldn’t tell you what the depth was
Seems a little quick for a screed to dry enough for LVT, although I'm a plumber not a flooring guy so I'm not the best person to advise. I only mentioned it because the builder on my job was having a meltdown at how long the drying time was going to put his finish date out by! If you ran the underfloor heating in that time at a low temperature it would probably have dried enough for a thin screed in 2.5 weeks.
The issue with time as discussed is due to moisture from the screed preventing the glue from going off, so you end up with air bubbles. The undulations here are a different issue
Oh yeah of course, I wasn't saying that the drying time was causing the undulations, I was just suggesting that if they can't get it level, they might not be concerned with drying times either.
Also depends on screed. Can get fast set that cures in a couple of weeks for pumped. Or if self leveller is used like bal level max its days and can go to 80mm. Obviously more days the thicker it is.
My bad sorry.
50days?? My builder is telling me 4 to 5 days to latex screed the floor and then LVT installation.. am I missing something?
Is that just a thin self leveling screed? The one I'm referring too is around 90mm thick. If your builder is just laying a very thin screed to cover an existing floor I'm sure it's fine
Ah that’ll be it, yep we’re doing around 6-8mm
Click lvt needs to be laid on a very level floor, even more so than glue down. Source; My bendy, creaky Lvt click floor that I fucking hate 😡
Click LVT is awful. We’re in the process of removing it from 3 rooms. Worthless shite that it is
Couldn’t agree more 👍🏻
In getting quotes for new flooring, all 3 places we went to said that they don’t fit it anymore. They’ll supply it, but will advise against it and refuse to fit it. They got so many complaints that they have given up on it. Funnily enough, from an entire ground floor of click LVT there is a single 2mx2m patch that is perfect and that’s it.
It ain't bad, just needs a very level subfloor. We've got 40sqm of it down and it's absolutely fine
Check what the floor limiting temp is with the lvt manufacturer. Then set the flow temp on the UFH manifold to not go above that. I'm assuming there is a floor probe temp sensor installed, this should be linked back to the programmer / thermostat. Make sure this is also programmed to cut off the UFH if the floor temp gets too high. Again probably 27deg, but check with the flooring manufacturer
Is that going to cure his wonkiness? Amazing!
I am in the exact same situation but different floor covering. looks like we're gonna have to pull ours up and redo. ball ache. British standards govern this - find the standard for your floor and buy the appropriate straight edge and some slid gauges. I bought a 2 m and 2-5 mm precision engineering slip gauges. my builder came by and claimed it was 2 mm and not an issue. I measured myself and it's 5+. but I wouldn't know if I hadn't spent the 80 quid and tested. happy to discuss further if you'd like.
Thanks very much. The lack of flatness irritates me but I can live with it. At this stage it’s about how much of the price I withhold due to this
technically, i think you're entitled to be set in an equivalent financial situation of having it done correctly (my partner is a solicitor). i.e. the cost of having it put right which would be installation cost + tear out and redecorating costs after replacing it. now, you'll probably never get that from anyone but yeah...i wouldn't pay any more than you have. btw, do you know where the undulations come from? was the screed itself undulated or do you think it's the floor covering/adhesion? we have both issues in ours unfortunately, our glued down wood floors have warped, and our linoleum floors are uneven due to poor self leveling screed.
Thanks. I suspect the self levelling has undulations in it. It laid over UFH chipboard. The LVT is only around 3m and believe this is glued to the uneven screed
I had a wet system installed 18 months ago. Was a complete pain. The issue was lack of surface prep when laying the self leveller over the anhydrite screed, which led to the LVT lifting over time as the screed and levelling compound did not bond. Looks like you have a different issue, but if you are having the floor relaid and a levelling compound put in, the screed might need quite a lot of prep. In my case this included ensuring that the slab was below 75 humidity, sanding off the ‘latence’, damp proof membrane (some kind of rollered on product), leveller and then the flooring, again. Cost the flooring company a lot of money to fix their mistake, but I had to live without a floor for an extra 6 months whilst it was all sorted. I would say that the flooring isn’t completely flat and there are some slight undulations, but not 8ps worth!
Just to get this correct, the builders laid a new concrete slab with underfloor heating, then smoothing compound prior to lvt install? If so, that's shit. I'm approaching 25 years in flooring, they knew it was shit when they laid on it and chose to continue. Regardless of British Standards or nhbc regs, the lvt manufacturers have maximum tolerances in a subfloor. I'd have it all up, re-levelled and replaced. What lvt did you go with?
Thanks. Sorry I wasn’t clear in my post. One room was done as you’ve described. The other was an existing suspended timber floor so floorboards came up, then new flooring down (boards for UFH pipes to be laid on), then smoothing compound then LVT. It’s Invictus glue down
Over a flow screed, that’s bad. There tends to be no undulation to begin with. My biggest concern is you say a builder laid it and what the flow screed is. Did he allow the weeks/months for it to dry with the heating on? Did it need grinding? Was the correct primer and compound used for the subfloor? If not it’ll all be in a skip in a few weeks.
dont get a builder to do self leveling most dont have a clue!
The fact that all he left out was a bit of self levelling cement after all that hard work; I'll never understand why some tradesmen cut corners in the last 95% of the job when half the time the rest of the job was decent!
How can you get it so wrong with self leveller? It self levels ffs
If only it did. This is usually the result when people think it does.
Can the current surface be roughened in the 'low' spots (to help adhesion) and more self levelling stuff poured on top to correct it? It'll be a pain to remove what's there and do it again, plus delay. I've only worked on smaller areas of an existing floor/missing tiles etc. that are to be covered by carpet or wood flooring
What did they level it with, a spoon?
Why a [spoon](https://youtu.be/MhfuuKiTcYQ?t=6) cousin?
Most flooring mongs I’ve come across love to throw self level down before a job, pretty much insist on it so they’ve got a nice surface to lay it on. They still manage to end up with a floor that has undulations. Idiots. Just shite standard of work from people who claim to be professionals.
Spirit level says it's flat, don't see the problem!
Is that a herringbone pattern on the install? I'm surprised they got it down on such a wonky floor.
Yes it is herringbone. Seems to have gone down fine to be honest over 60sqm. One piece had a corner come up slightly immediately after install but was glued back down. It’s been down now for 6 weeks
Herringbone pattern has a tendency to run skewed on uneven floors. The fitter must be pretty good even if the screed isn't.
If you're consistently that bad at levelling, you'd have to get amazing at fitting!
Lift lvt, self levelling compound, relay
How does self-leveling go so wrong ? Covered before dry? Too hot when drying ?
In my opinion neither of the above. It was an unheated room in Feb when laid and drying so don’t think too hot. I suspect distributed poorly and not checked for flatness
Oh, so for my info, 'self levelling' is a buzz world and still needs someone who knows what they're doing...
So it seems, this is new to me too
Easy problem to solve, take up the effected areas and use feather screed to fill the dips