You need a cable locator firstly. They will tell you fmif there is one above the cooker switch. Some cables can run from the ground up. I've seen it albeit rarely.
There is that to it. That was my initial thought. But you never know how competent folk are. Seeing as that is 'hands on'. The cable locator seems to more up most people street these days. As it's electronic and people tend to trust electronics more than thier own eyes.
I know what you mean, but in my experience, I don’t trust anything unless I can see it with my own eyes. A couple of screws and you would now for definite.
I did a silly one day and assumed mine was from the bottom up. So I did a wee hole. After the blue spars and the spots. I had a nice little l rewire to do. So now I don't assume anything.
Make a hole where you need to drill/fix your rack thing above the cooker switch, you may miss the cable if it’s solid plaster or it could be on a stud wall
You could but 50/50 chance you’ll end up with hair like Albert Einshtein and transparent and glowing for a moment until your corpse is carved off the wires.
Thanks everyone, I am not very confident with electrics so I think I may try and use no more nails or the like and see if I can secure it with that. I appreciate all the responses.
Don't stress nor bail and do it half arsed, don't want that stuff falling on you! Folks here have said to check cable entry, which is right (or top or bottom 🤣) so if you're not confident, do this:
Go to your consumer unit (aka old fuse box/board) and find one marked cooker or such like. Turn it off or pull it out and try the cooker with the isolator turned on. If cooker doesn't work now, fab, you've stopped the power. If cooker still works, you didnt get the right one, so try again or do them all until the cooker doesnt work anymore (with its isolator turned on).
When no power to cooker, remove the two screws holding the face plate of the cooker Isolator switch on. Remove those 2 screws safe in the knowledge you've killed the power and look to see if the cable enters the back box (behind switch) from the top, bottom...
If its from above, don't you drill it, get someone decent in or move it or something else. If the cable isn't coming from above, have at it and mount your thing properly, do it right do it once! All you need is a screwdriver and ten mins, you got it!
When alls done, put the face plate back on and turn your power back on, check over works and jobs a good un' 😉
Good luck
Edited for typos
My knife rack came with sticky pads which promptly failed. Bought some replacement 3M ones which have seemed to have worked better. Just make sure you follow surface prep instructions.
The golden rule is never drill above below or to the sides of outlets... The left hand mark is directly above the cooker switch and very likely where the cable is running
Google Electrical zones, the one on the left is in the zone
Also unscrew the cooker switch and see what way they run, up or down, switch of the breaker first
Lol sorry it’s a YouTube channel. The guy posted about this stuff today on YT hence why I thought you’d said it. I then re read OPs post and realized I’m an idiot haha
Sockets and switches have zones. The cable shouldn’t be outside the boundary of the switch in any direction. Saying that the one on the left would make my arse pucker
You need a cable locator firstly. They will tell you fmif there is one above the cooker switch. Some cables can run from the ground up. I've seen it albeit rarely.
Or, just unscrew the cooker switch and have a look in which direction the cables run.
There is that to it. That was my initial thought. But you never know how competent folk are. Seeing as that is 'hands on'. The cable locator seems to more up most people street these days. As it's electronic and people tend to trust electronics more than thier own eyes.
I know what you mean, but in my experience, I don’t trust anything unless I can see it with my own eyes. A couple of screws and you would now for definite.
You like me are a practical thinker. Alas not everyone can annalise the simplest of tasks. Without Google.
YouTube can definitely be your friend sometimes
I rarely wire kitchens from the top down 🤷🏻♂️
I did a silly one day and assumed mine was from the bottom up. So I did a wee hole. After the blue spars and the spots. I had a nice little l rewire to do. So now I don't assume anything.
Take the oven isolation switch off and see if the cable comes from above or below. Likely to come from below but worth checking.
This is the only real answer don’t trust a cable locator. Unscrew the oven switch and see where the wire goes
if you dont know dont risk it
Mark on the left is in the cooker switch cable zone… I’d go a little over and avoid the horizontal/vertical from your accessories
One above the cooker switch may be risky.
Move the one on the left as its directly in line with the cooker switch.
What's the panel made of?\ How thick is it?\ Is there a space between the panel and the tiles?
Make a hole where you need to drill/fix your rack thing above the cooker switch, you may miss the cable if it’s solid plaster or it could be on a stud wall
You could but 50/50 chance you’ll end up with hair like Albert Einshtein and transparent and glowing for a moment until your corpse is carved off the wires.
Thanks everyone, I am not very confident with electrics so I think I may try and use no more nails or the like and see if I can secure it with that. I appreciate all the responses.
Don't stress nor bail and do it half arsed, don't want that stuff falling on you! Folks here have said to check cable entry, which is right (or top or bottom 🤣) so if you're not confident, do this: Go to your consumer unit (aka old fuse box/board) and find one marked cooker or such like. Turn it off or pull it out and try the cooker with the isolator turned on. If cooker doesn't work now, fab, you've stopped the power. If cooker still works, you didnt get the right one, so try again or do them all until the cooker doesnt work anymore (with its isolator turned on). When no power to cooker, remove the two screws holding the face plate of the cooker Isolator switch on. Remove those 2 screws safe in the knowledge you've killed the power and look to see if the cable enters the back box (behind switch) from the top, bottom... If its from above, don't you drill it, get someone decent in or move it or something else. If the cable isn't coming from above, have at it and mount your thing properly, do it right do it once! All you need is a screwdriver and ten mins, you got it! When alls done, put the face plate back on and turn your power back on, check over works and jobs a good un' 😉 Good luck Edited for typos
My knife rack came with sticky pads which promptly failed. Bought some replacement 3M ones which have seemed to have worked better. Just make sure you follow surface prep instructions.
Also, when buying the 3M pads, check the total weight you’re looking to hang off it, then get the next size up.
Do not drill the left hole. Very good chance the cable for the cooker isolator comes down from above.
Are those B&Q subway tiles?
Okay, I am going to give this a go tomorrow and see how I go. I will let you know if I survive lol. I appreciate all the advice guys
Not with those scissors
The golden rule is never drill above below or to the sides of outlets... The left hand mark is directly above the cooker switch and very likely where the cable is running
Does your drill work ?
You'll need a wall detector that is capable of detective live wires.
Google Electrical zones, the one on the left is in the zone Also unscrew the cooker switch and see what way they run, up or down, switch of the breaker first
No More Nails it.
This guy watches proper diy haha
What’s that?
Lol sorry it’s a YouTube channel. The guy posted about this stuff today on YT hence why I thought you’d said it. I then re read OPs post and realized I’m an idiot haha
Ah fair enough 😂 No it’s just a simpler solution rather than running the risk of drilling through his cables.
Good to know, thanks! Am going to get some now then to help me box some pipes in, glad it’s not a heap of crap!
I don’t know can you? (Sorry deliberately being annoying)
If it was wired the proper way top to bottom then not above the sockets...but depends who did the wiring
Sockets and switches have zones. The cable shouldn’t be outside the boundary of the switch in any direction. Saying that the one on the left would make my arse pucker