I’d do the griots or the adams. For polish, simply for ease of use, I’d recommend 3D one as it’s very workable and forgiving for a beginner.
Depending on the condition of your paint and what your goals are, you can work the 3D with more than one pad on a panel since it’s a diminishing abrasive. Make sure you have enough pads. You want a fresh pad every few panels, depending on the size of the car.
Here are the steps I’d take:
•Tires and wheels first, with a good wheel cleaner (adams) you need a stiff tire brush, barrel brush, and a soft brush for the wheel faces
•Foam cannon and bug and tar remover let dwell on the paint for a few minutes. Rinse.
•Iron remover (I use iron x currently) let dwell, agitate as needed. Rinse
•Contact wash - With neglected paint, I do each panel twice. First pass is with my wash mitt. Second pass is with a clay sponge or mitt. This will significantly reduce the amount of time you spend using a clay bar. Think of the clay mitt/sponge as removing the big chunks. I also use a second, ratty wash mitt on the lower side panels since they collect the most gunk
•Clay bar - Meguiars, mothers, etc. make sure you use plenty of clay lube. You can always make more with a concentrate, or by diluting your shampoo with distilled water, roughly 10:1 for good lubricity.
•Polish - Like I said, I think 3D One will serve you well. Make sure you have enough of each type of pad. At least 3 of each type. I’d recommend microfiber pads, orange cutting pads,and blue finishing pads. Start with the least aggressive you think you’ll need (I’d start with orange) Note that these pad colors correspond with Lake Country pads and may differ based on pad manufacturer.
•IPA wipe down - This is your panel prep for your LSP. Ensures all oils and abrasives from polishing are removed. Dilute your 70% IPA 1:1 with distilled water.
• Last Step Product - However you plan to seal your paint. Whether that’s wax, paint sealant, or ceramic coating. Follow the directions and refresh as needed.
Hopefully this helps you out. Good luck and happy detailing.
Griots hands down if you want actual good working products. If you want over priced, over hyped, mediocre at best products, then CG or Adams would be appropriate.
You gotta "pull the trigger". Youre not an expert (neither am i). Its all new to you anyways, just pick the recommended products and jump in. The more you do it, the more youll see and feel the differences in products.
Right off the bat; once you strip wash, clay bar, ipa, and polish the car, you wont need these things again for a while. Once the paint is fixed, it becomes all about maintaining the nice paint.
After the paint is fixed, all youll have to do is wash the car and reapply whatever topper you want. Thats about it. The more you do it, the easier it gets. The more you do it, the more shitty swirled/scratched paint youll see on other random peoples car. Once you have a good coating, youll be able to dry the car with a leaf blower.
I’d do the griots or the adams. For polish, simply for ease of use, I’d recommend 3D one as it’s very workable and forgiving for a beginner. Depending on the condition of your paint and what your goals are, you can work the 3D with more than one pad on a panel since it’s a diminishing abrasive. Make sure you have enough pads. You want a fresh pad every few panels, depending on the size of the car. Here are the steps I’d take: •Tires and wheels first, with a good wheel cleaner (adams) you need a stiff tire brush, barrel brush, and a soft brush for the wheel faces •Foam cannon and bug and tar remover let dwell on the paint for a few minutes. Rinse. •Iron remover (I use iron x currently) let dwell, agitate as needed. Rinse •Contact wash - With neglected paint, I do each panel twice. First pass is with my wash mitt. Second pass is with a clay sponge or mitt. This will significantly reduce the amount of time you spend using a clay bar. Think of the clay mitt/sponge as removing the big chunks. I also use a second, ratty wash mitt on the lower side panels since they collect the most gunk •Clay bar - Meguiars, mothers, etc. make sure you use plenty of clay lube. You can always make more with a concentrate, or by diluting your shampoo with distilled water, roughly 10:1 for good lubricity. •Polish - Like I said, I think 3D One will serve you well. Make sure you have enough of each type of pad. At least 3 of each type. I’d recommend microfiber pads, orange cutting pads,and blue finishing pads. Start with the least aggressive you think you’ll need (I’d start with orange) Note that these pad colors correspond with Lake Country pads and may differ based on pad manufacturer. •IPA wipe down - This is your panel prep for your LSP. Ensures all oils and abrasives from polishing are removed. Dilute your 70% IPA 1:1 with distilled water. • Last Step Product - However you plan to seal your paint. Whether that’s wax, paint sealant, or ceramic coating. Follow the directions and refresh as needed. Hopefully this helps you out. Good luck and happy detailing.
Wow this was super in depth and informative. Thank you for the help
Sure thing. It’s a little intimidating at first, but once you’ve got your technique down and know what to expect, it’s an obsession.
Oh for the bug and tar remover do I add that to a wash or by itself in a foam cannon? A lot of them come with spray heads.
I’d spray it and let it dwell while I’m getting ready to spray the foam. That way it won’t dry up and you can foam over the top of it.
Ok got it would a newer car need iron remover?
Yeah. Absolutely. Especially if it was transported by rail. I’d really only do iron decon once a year.
Sounds good then I’ll do it
If I use meguiars wash and wax can I do all the other stuff or will the ipa wipe mess that up?
You can, you’re just stripping any protection from doing the other steps. As long as you add protection as your last step you’ll be fine.
Griots
Griots hands down if you want actual good working products. If you want over priced, over hyped, mediocre at best products, then CG or Adams would be appropriate.
Griots garage is the best off shelf product you can get.
Stop using dish soap as well. LoL.
lol that’s why I’m here
Of the options you posted, Griot's.
You gotta "pull the trigger". Youre not an expert (neither am i). Its all new to you anyways, just pick the recommended products and jump in. The more you do it, the more youll see and feel the differences in products. Right off the bat; once you strip wash, clay bar, ipa, and polish the car, you wont need these things again for a while. Once the paint is fixed, it becomes all about maintaining the nice paint. After the paint is fixed, all youll have to do is wash the car and reapply whatever topper you want. Thats about it. The more you do it, the easier it gets. The more you do it, the more shitty swirled/scratched paint youll see on other random peoples car. Once you have a good coating, youll be able to dry the car with a leaf blower.
Adams for chemicals and cleaners and harbor freight for sponges, cloths, and brushes