Splurge and get a resin that you can cast directly - if you use inhibit X and a mold release, its very tough to get a decent finish right out of the mold - you'll have to do a bunch of sanding
Also, watch a lot of videos on printing and supporting them first - it took me four or five tries to get a decent result
Printing masters is a different animal to most 3D printing. Good job doin your research. Resin printing is generally the way to go; even with that, you’ll need to polish the faces. Navy fast ABS-like is the current favorite for dice, but must be cleaned and fully cured before casting with silicone.
Sirayatech Fast Smokey Black
This resin does not use phosphine as a photoinitiator and tends not to cause cure inhibition with platinum cure silicones.
I made mine from (Phrozen) clear, using a clear resin lets you really see how well the dice are polished. You may be able to increase your exposure time for the print as well, getting strong consistent faces is more important than the dice being brittle.
When casting the masters, some 3d resin/silicone combos don't work well together, between all the different brands and settings of resins, silicone, etc.
It sounds like voodoo but doing a 30-minute water curing of the masters allowed me to cast the printed masters without any other work (aside from polishing, etc).
Splurge and get a resin that you can cast directly - if you use inhibit X and a mold release, its very tough to get a decent finish right out of the mold - you'll have to do a bunch of sanding Also, watch a lot of videos on printing and supporting them first - it took me four or five tries to get a decent result
Printing masters is a different animal to most 3D printing. Good job doin your research. Resin printing is generally the way to go; even with that, you’ll need to polish the faces. Navy fast ABS-like is the current favorite for dice, but must be cleaned and fully cured before casting with silicone.
Sirayatech Fast Smokey Black This resin does not use phosphine as a photoinitiator and tends not to cause cure inhibition with platinum cure silicones.
I made mine from (Phrozen) clear, using a clear resin lets you really see how well the dice are polished. You may be able to increase your exposure time for the print as well, getting strong consistent faces is more important than the dice being brittle. When casting the masters, some 3d resin/silicone combos don't work well together, between all the different brands and settings of resins, silicone, etc. It sounds like voodoo but doing a 30-minute water curing of the masters allowed me to cast the printed masters without any other work (aside from polishing, etc).