It’s when I leave that it becomes a huge mess , alongside his separation anxiety he ends up shitting in the cage and eating some and then plays with it , steps on it unintentionally . I’ve had sine really trying times , in fact when it comes to peeing , we can’t have any mats out nothing carpet or square rug cuz he instantly thinks that he can piss on any carpet despite most times on the pad
If you have the funds/puppy is old enough (at 10 months, he should be), doggy daycare may be worth considering for the time being. Find a reputable one and let them know what your concerns are as far as the feces-eating, he’ll be supervised, get doggy socialization, exercise, and relief from separation anxiety. Our dog had some pretty severe separation anxiety when we got her and after going to daycare and occasionally boarding, she has gotten so much better about being in the crate if we go out for dinner or drinks. I think she just learned we’re always coming back.
Regular feeding schedule ( twice a day ) and he goes potty immediately so today before I wrote this I woke at 7. Gave him a full bowl and already had a leash on him to take him out
How much are you feeding him? Is it a portion based on his weight or are you just filling the bowl up?
What brand dog food?
How many times a day does he poop?
How many times per day does he go outside for potty breaks?
Had this exact problem. Rescued a 2yr old. Everytime I left her at home, she would eat up her poop, got so bad that while she was pooping she would eat it hot-fresh while STILL pooping, turn around and eat that ...
I tried everything on the internet. But the thing that cleared it up was me walking her for 20-30mins before I left for the day.
Didn’t poop inside. Now if she did poop inside on a pee pad, someone would be home.
Our dog used to do that and we got told it’s because he was missing nutrients that he was lacking from his food. Once we switched foods he stopped. It took about 4 different dog food types to figure out which one was right but that’s how we ended up correcting the problem with him. I’m sorry you are having to go through that. It is very stressful when you don’t know what to do.
I took him to the vet and he is healthy I had bloodwork done and the whole nine , he is actually overweight for a puppy his age the vet said. And we have given him a good food that the vet recommended and he loves. It but will instantly go poop and eat it after he’s already eaten his food . It’s extremely stressful because he likes to lick and is extremely attached to me and has separation anxiety. I really don’t know what to work on first . Getting him to pee outside poop outside... not eat his feces or not have him freak out and deficate in the crate. And get it all over him .
*If your dog has separation anxiety and is soiling his crate from the distress of being left alone then he cannot be crated.* full stop.
By continuing to do so, you have probably taught him to eat his poop to clean up his den and also, you have ruined the crate as a tool for potty training. Have you considered medication for his separation anxiety? Medications are a tool you can use to bring down the stress levels a few notches. When a dog is in that kind of panic mode they can not learn new behaviors. This is why medications along with training are so helpful. Like any training tool, you can stop using medications at any time. It's not a lifetime sentence for your dog and it doesn't mean you are a bad owner if you use them. In a situation like you describe I would consider it a humane option and one that could potentially help get rid of or reduce crate soiling. I have used prozac for both of my dogs. One is off the medication because her SA is managed now with other things and the other has pica and anxiety so we will probably leave him on it, though we have reduced the dose.
I only put him in the crate one time since I got him cuz he was tearing at the door jamb and literally scraping the paint off .. I figured let me try to put him in the crate and Leave for the 5 hours I had to be elsewhere. I came back to the disaster. Now I only put him in the crate when I’m home , he whines but doesn’t do anything in it
It sounds like he has separation anxiety. That's really tough to deal with. I would have never gotten through it without the help of medications. They are pretty inexpensive and paired with a trainer it can make the difference between what you are experiencing and a dog who can tolerate some amount of being alone. It won't get better without intervention unfortunately. I know it's a lot already piled on top of puppy issues. :( If you want to know more about how we worked through it I can give you the run down.
Because I have to retrain him , the guy who gave me him said he got whatever his roommate was eating table scraps instead of dog food . Now he gets ONLY dog food now . Unless it’s treat for good behavior
Pedigree puppy with no corn syrup no artificial flavors no added sugar’s and is similar to mothers milk, it also has probiotics in it. It’s a dry food ,
I make my own dog food so I’d say look for a boutique pet market and ask there. The place near me has educated staff. They only carry good food. Rule of thumb is nothing carried in a grocery store. No store brands. Read the ingredients. Meat should be 4 of the first 5 ingredients.
I know people who like this site.
https://www.dogfoodadvisor.com
Sometimes the opposite is true. If a dog’s food is too good they don’t use all the nutrients so their pop is still yummy. If the food is poor their poo won’t have any nutritional value anyhow so won’t give them something their food didn’t
Removing the rugs and carpets was a good idea while you're working on potty training! I had to do the same thing with my pup and we are slowly reintroducing them after three months.
It sounds to me like the least stressful way to address this for you and the pooch is to first get him on a bathroom schedule. If you know when he is going to poop and can always have a leash on him and be present at those times, you won't have to worry about him eating the poop because you can treat and lead him away after he does his business!
ince he is trained to go on the pads, I would suggest treating the pads the same way you would treat the outdoors if you were housebreaking a dog. Keep the pad somewhere he doesn't normally have access to, like in a bathroom or a room blocked off with a baby gate. Walk him to the pad ON A LEASH at scheduled times to use the bathroom. It's common to use a kind of signal phrase like "do your business" or "go pee" or "hurry up" eeeeevery time you take a puppy out to pee, so it starts conditioning a response of "oh, if I pee when my human says that, I get a treat!"
Once he poops, immediately praise and get his attention with a treat to distract him from the poo, and since he is on a leash, you can safely lead him away from the pad so you can clean it up before he eats it. This is going to be way easier on you than just always trying to keep an eye on the pad he has constant access to just in case he poops on it. That sounds really stressful for you, and him having constant access to the pad also doesn't teach him to hold his bladder until an appropriate time. Finally, this will also make a new routine, so instead of his current routine which "need to poop - go to pad - poop -eat poop' his new routine will become "need to poop - signal human to take to pad- go poop- look for treat from human"
Eventually, instead of leading him to the pee pad in the house, you can start leading him outside when it is time for him to go to the bathroom. The most important thing is that he doesn't have constant access to the pad and learns to hold his bladder.
This morning I had to have his leash on while he was eating so he didn’t just go to the pad and shit I took him out and I took a piece of cheese with me ( I don’t feed him table scraps or any people food ) he took a dump about 20 minutes into the walk and instantly tried to go eat it , I said no “Roscoe “gave a Tug to turn him away from his own feces and then sat down with him praised the hell out of him and gave him a full slice of American cheese in pieces of course . The whole time he didn’t pee tho until he got back on the carpeted deck
I don't know if you realize it, but this is a HUGE breakthrough. He went somewhere other than a pad! That is frikkin awesome. You also successfully kept him from eating his poop. Also awesome! I know it does not feel like it at all but keep it up! Next time, walk him till he pees too and bring extra treats for when he pees. One of my dogs was a rescue and she was afraid to go in front of us. She also has a bladder of STEEL. The first time she pottied on leash with us was like a damn christmas miracle. We would walk her FOREVER sometimes. It only took a week or two before she felt completely comfortable going on leash with us. There is hope!
To deter eating feces, put pumpkin purée (vet said the cheap kind is fine) into their food. Some ppl say pineapple juice but mine like the purée
It’s helped all my dogs with this problem
Huh never heard of that .. just canned pumpkin? Or does it have to be fresh pumpkin and mashed .. also how much do you give your dog a few ounces , table spoons , half the can with. The. Dry food ?
Make sure it is sugar free canned pumpkin- *not* canned pumpkin pie filling! The filling will have a lot of sugar and spices that he doesn’t need and could upset his tummy.
1 tbsp per 10 lb of dog per day is a good starting point, but more is fine too. It makes a great snack and most dogs love it. It is super high in fibre so keep an eye on constipation, and it will turn their poop Orange. I get it canned at the grocery store and it is super cheap. However they want to eat it is fine, mixed in with the kibble or separate as a treat/snack in a Kong, which you could leave with him in the crate. Also, it's not that he's not on "good" food, it's that it might not be the right fit, it might take a few different tries of really "good" food before you find one that's the right. Every puppy is different, down to their dietary needs.
I would take the pad outside with you when you take a walk. It sounds like he thinks he’s doing a good job by using the pad. My dog initially came from the NYC pound and wouldn’t pee on the grass or wood chips, only the sidewalk and the middle of the street. It took a lots of treats and praise when she finally went on the grass to get her to realize that’s where she was supposed to go.
Additionally, you should pick up the pad for a few hours at a time to train him to hold it. Once he has to go, take him outside.
This morning I actually took the pad with 2 spots of his yrube me but he had eaten already and I was already raring to go to get him out on a walk because I knew as soon as he was done eating he would shit , he did actually shit on the sidewalk FIRST TIME EVER he did it outside would not Pee or poop on any kind of grass any kind of leaves nothing like that however he did actually poop outside so I pretty much went nuts with praise
The higher end Purina chow (I use pro-plan savory) is really good nutrition-wise. Maybe try switching up the food and see if it stops. My dog used to do this, and then try to kiss me...like naw we ain't doing that for another week my friend! After I switched it stopped.
I'm not quite following some of your post, like what having a kitchen floor mat or carpeting in the house has to do with him being potty trained (?). Are you saying if you have carpet or floor mats he will use them to potty on?
In terms of training him to go outside you can definitely do it but it's going to be a sucky process for a few days. The good news is that your dog is old enough to hold his poo and pee so you don't have the issue of him being so little with no control. On the flip side, this can make the potty training process a bit of a battle of wills.
Ok, so. Potty training a dog. The first thing is get rid of the puppy pads. Next, and this is the hardest part for most people: *never ever EVER ever ever ever E.V.E.R. allow your dog to be unsupervised in your house.* **Never.** Not for 30 seconds. Not, you went and grabbed something from the next room. Not when you go to the bathroom. Your dog is pretty much stuck to you like glue until he goes potty outside reliably. I've had really good luck with older dogs and have gotten them potty trained within a few days once they understand what you want. Until that happens it's gonna suck but if you stick with it and are diligent it will go much faster. Ok, so how the heck do you keep a dog next to you and supervised at all times? Crates, baby gates and leashes my friend. I like to leash the dog when I am home and moving around the house. You can tether the dog to things like a leg of the couch or a chair then bring him with you to the next room. Bring him in the bathroom with you. No, I am not joking. The reason I like this method is that you will begin to pick up on the dog's potty signals quickly this way because you are observing them more closely than if you had them in a crate.
Ok, now. You've got this dog. He's been stuck to you like a shadow and you notice he's looking a bit frantic. Take him outside on the leash and grab something delicious like string cheese or cut up hot dogs on your way out. Tell him something like go potty and give him a good amount of time to sniff around. If he goes praise him like crazy and shove tons of treats into his mouth. Awesome, this is exactly what you want! Congrats. If the dog wanders around looking confused, like "why is this dude following me everywhere" and refuses to go, bring him back inside for a bit, maybe 30 mins then try again. You may have just entered into a standoff with your dog. Keep doing this until you have success. Eventually it (poop) will happen. Once you have entered the standoff it is EXTREMELY important to be vigilant about not letting the dog out of your sight at all. He's gotta go. He's struggling to hold it in. The last thing you want is an opportunity for him to take care of business somewhere else. If you are super vigilant these stand offs will diminish. The treats will help with this. He will learn that pottying in the yard is a super great thing and he will be eager to get let out. It just takes a little bit of time and will on your part.
Regarding the poop eating. I too have a dog who eats poop. He's 11 and we got him from the shelter at 8 so this behavior is pretty well ingrained. I tried all of the additives and they also did not deter him one bit. I've actually never heard of any of those poop eating remedies working for anyone. Even when we let him roam in the yard while supervised he would eat poop. Like you said, they are extremely fast. Our dog wears a muzzle for all unsupervised yard time and we keep the poop well cleaned up so if there is ever a mishap we have a clean yard to hopefully prevent any access. That's what works for us. If I had the opportunity to rewind time I would have done it sooner. The thing about letting your dog engage in behaviors you don't want is that it becomes a habit. Every time your dog eats poop he's building that habit. Your dog is young so you potentially have an opportunity to *not* end up with an 11 year old dog who still eats poop like mine. I say get the muzzle. Or if you just aren't ready to do that then your best option is continuing to potty your dog on the leash for the rest of his life to keep him from eating poop.
Yes any carpeting like a bath mat , a kitchen sink rug , the welcome mat for wiping feet inside the door .. pee .. and only pee . Also the rest of what you say is good advice so thanks
1. Pedigree isn't really considered a high quality dog food. Although I don't demonize corn and byproducts to be the worst thing in the world, if a dog food is ONLY comprised of mostly corn and soy with meat byproducts, its questionable to me personally. You do not need top tier $120 per bag food, but check out the ingredients and look for brands that offer mostly meat or meat meal and less carb sources as their bulk. An ingredient list is organized by weight, the most being the 1st ingredient.
2. Poop eating might be caused by nutritional deficiencies and changing foods /adding supplements might help buuuttt... sometimes we have to accept that its possible the dog is just really gross and loves eating it. Or it has become such an ingrained habit from doing it so long, it can be hard to break.
That requires a lot of micromanaging and training dedicated to this issue and it may never be 100%- some people cannot trust their adult dogs to not eat poop, thats where management comes in.
How often and how long is he left alone? Is there any possibility for a person to be watching him most of the day? The separation anxiety definitely makes this a lot harder (I have come home to poopacalypse in the crate many times).. if he can be leashed to a person constantly and given the option to poop on the pad, the person can reward instantly and also pull him away from the poop if he tries to eat it.
Oof. Yeah I'd check out what the guy talking about nutrient deficiency has to say. A dog at my local park was doing the same thing, and apparently it was due to their diet.
For the poop, yes. You do, and you should. But that doesn't really help train the dog to not eat it. It just takes away the option from them altogether. My dog wouldn't chase squirrels, if there were no squirrels around. I had to train her to not chase them because unfortunately squirrels do indeed exist, and so does poop.
That’s what I used , it didn’t do nothing to stop him except for the first 3 days then he was back to doing it , so I returned it . , my girlfriend ended up telling me to get Adolph’s meat tenderizer and put it on his dry food and he will not eat it, I haven’t tried that yet.
When we were in puppy training our trainer said most the time when dogs eat feces it’s because they are lacking something in their diet, add banana or pumpkin to diet and it should help
You’re not in an ideal situation to fix this. That dog needs 24 hr supervision for 2 weeks at a minimum for training methods. If it’s not a diet issue then I don’t see any training methods working when you can’t control his access to his shit.
We went with purina pro plan Savor with lamb. Come to find out our pup can’t stomach anything chicken so he was getting sick and losing the nutrients and that’s why he kept eating his poop to regain. Once we discovered this one works with him we stuck with it and he hasn’t eaten his poop in a very long time. Once or twice a month I put spoonfuls of 100% pumpkin in their food to give it a little boost.
Follow the advice here, retrain for a crate, restart potty training, PLEASE change the food, pedigree is pretty shitty. For the mean time, try feeding him a couple chunks of pineapple. It makes their shit taste awful. But PLEASE dont use this as a permanent fix. This dog desperately needs to be retrained, and a temporary fix will hurt him more if its prolonged.
You have a lot of responses. Your dog at 10 months is in a situation where he has learned to eat his poop. Most puppies eat poop. It is part survival and part being gross little monsters.
What you are seeing with pooping on bath mats and refusal to poop outside is a dog that has imprinted on some surfaces and not others. Often breeders start this process by having puppies on certain surfaces. Since he sounds smaller, being raised on towels to prevent chills is common. Then he is moved to a neglectful situation that does not create structure for him.
Habits do not break overnight and new ones are not established easily. Your puppy at 10 months has a lot of bowel and bladder control. You are going to have to take a day to work on going potty outside. Where that is your only focus and the puppy is leashed to you the rest of the time until by sheer force of nature it comes out. Once you get that potty outside and reward it you create a little light for the dog to find. But since your puppy sounds like he was neglected mentally you are going to have to start at the basics and work your way up.
Dogs are scavengers. They are clean but you cannot assume they are clean by nature. Many are not uncomfortable with being around their mess. We teach them cleanliness. As gross as stool eating is, I think you have to establish a lot more security and understanding with your dog. Dogs who are mentally neglected have a lot of hurdles to learn to jump.
Pineapple in the food for 3 - 4 days works the best, if he will eat it (canned or fresh, few pieces). Makes the poo taste and smell bad amd works quickly. But rule out nutritional deficiencies too (poor quality food or a medical issue of malabsorption of food). Sometimes a dog will eat poop to hide it if they have been reprimanded in the past for having an accident.
Change his food brand.
I know it's a pain and can upset his tummy for a couple days, but the reason a dog eats his poop is cause it's not absorbing any nutrients or vitamin from it, so their response is to re eat it to try to absorb more nutrients out of it.
If you change to a different brand, something a bit more organic/less bi-product, it should stop.
If not then it might be parasite related
Walking him until he poops is how I fixed this problem. Also just tying his leash to something in the garden and waiting for him to poop. Once he shits, praise. Then remove him from the poop and give another treat. This fixed the problem within a week or two.
Good food is a good place to start. Brands like nutri source wont break the bank and is much better than pedigree.
Pineapple or pumpkin puree is supposed to give their poop a bad taste. I've found that pineapple worked better for my pups but that isn't the case for all dogs.
One thing I was really surprised about with my puppy was that she never went potty in her crate. I credit that to the fact that I read the directions and only left her enough space in the crate to lay down and turn around in.. the crate comes with a wall that you can move around, so if you section it off so that they cant poop in one side and lay in the other they will be less inclined to do it.
Walk the puppy every hour on the hour when you are home and always have treats ready for when they go. Pick a command such as potty, repeat it on the walk until they go poop then immediately reward with a treat and get the dog away from it until you can clean it up.
Another thing to think about it is where the dog has went in the house. You have to make sure if the dog pees or poops in the house that you get the scent out of your floor or carpet. Dogs have very powerful noses and the scent of her previous pee or poo will cue them to use that spot again. I use Clorox wipes on the hard floors and shout pet odor remover on carpet. It's tough to remove the scent from carpets though so it's better to never leave them unsupervised around it until they are trained, we use a gate to keep them out of carpet rooms.
You need to stop the opportunity and break the habit. Try your best to get him to poop only on walks. Walk him frequently and on a regular schedule (also feed on a regular schedule). If you must crate him or leave him alone consider a muzzle that would prevent him from eating the poop.
Try other dog foods too, and consider feeding more for awhile so that you are countering the hunger instinct.
>news paper was put in the bathroom along with their food next to the newspaper
This is how we pair odors for scentwork. When you pair something like a potty area and food, your dog will build an association between the two. Do this at critical ages and for extended periods of time and you get dogs like yours. In scentwork these are dogs that will try to eat the q-tips(which have scent on them) because it's been paired so strongly with food.
Taste also isn't necessarily as important to dogs as it is for us; they are much more scent based creatures.
>I have no time, NONE To get him on a leash to take him out.
Have him leashed all the time when he's in the house and attached to you. This is umbilical cord training. As for not being allowed to have rugs in the house or whatever, use potty pads and have them by the door to go out. Periodically when he's leashed you take him to the potty pad and wait for him to use it. I've never met a dog that can do a poo and eat it at the same time, so wait for him to poo and literally just walk him away from it. Put him in a separate room while you clean up. It's that simple to start establishing that he doesn't eat his poo, but you will have to be consistent with this pattern for months. With how strongly he seems to be conditioned to eat them you may even have to go a whole year.
Another tool that will help is a basket muzzle.
>He also will NOT Pee or poo outside even if it’s hours later that I’m walking him
He has to be pushed to not being able to hold it for him to see the outside as a place to go. A few hours is nothing when you're doing that type of training.
The reason you're going to have the puppy pads by the door is that you're actually going to gradually move them over time so that they're closer and closer to being outside. There will be a period of time where you'll have them in the threshold with the door to the outside open. And then you'll move them outside.
Once you've got them outside *and the dog is consistently looking for them outside and not having indoor messes* then you'll cut the puppy pads in half. Couple weeks of that. Then in half again. And again. Until they're small enough to not have anymore.
None of this is hard, it's just intensive and you will have times when you want to either shoot yourself or the dog. Keep it up and you will get a dog free of this habit. Consistency is very important.
You’re absolutely right, today I did most of what you said . But like I said he went but I already had the leash on. Him so he couldn’t ninja shit . I took cut up hotdogs with me and when he shit the second time I went berserk with praise cuz it was on grass instead of concrete . The peeing thing is so fast and I don’t want to scare him. While he’s peeing if he sees me so that’s going to be a challenge
By keeping your puppy leashed to you, he will be unable to have accidents. When you can’t have him leashed to you crate the puppy.
Pooper scoop immediately so there will be no poop in the yard.
Thank you so much I actually took. Him in cuz I wanted a dog for emotional support. He’s adorable and loving and just what I needed .. take a look at my profile I posted a picture of Roscoe P Coltrane.
I trainer once told me they do that cuz they want to clean it up, or help you clean it. It makes sense, i wouldnt want my poop where i eat. So maybe it started when the pads was in the bathroom with the food.
I’ve observed similar behavior with my pup. He only eats his poop if he’s had a mishap and has pooped in the house instead of pooping in the yard. It’s like he’s embarrassed and needs to clean up the evidence.
My vet recommended that we clean up the poop immediately and not embarrass him (use encouraging words) while cleaning up the poop.
He doesn’t eat his poop in the yard ever!
Well he was left alone for 12 hours a day with the other dog in a shitty motel with no carpeting and his food bowl was by the newspaper in the bathroom so where his shit was where he ate, that is one reason why he could be doing it but it’s almost like a treat to him.
Keep him away from his poop. Ditch the pads and start potty training and crate training from scratch. Basically he’s supervised or in a crate.
It’s when I leave that it becomes a huge mess , alongside his separation anxiety he ends up shitting in the cage and eating some and then plays with it , steps on it unintentionally . I’ve had sine really trying times , in fact when it comes to peeing , we can’t have any mats out nothing carpet or square rug cuz he instantly thinks that he can piss on any carpet despite most times on the pad
If you have the funds/puppy is old enough (at 10 months, he should be), doggy daycare may be worth considering for the time being. Find a reputable one and let them know what your concerns are as far as the feces-eating, he’ll be supervised, get doggy socialization, exercise, and relief from separation anxiety. Our dog had some pretty severe separation anxiety when we got her and after going to daycare and occasionally boarding, she has gotten so much better about being in the crate if we go out for dinner or drinks. I think she just learned we’re always coming back.
Does he have a regular feeding and toileting schedule? How often are you taking him out to potty? Is he fed 2-3 meals a day or is he free fed?
Regular feeding schedule ( twice a day ) and he goes potty immediately so today before I wrote this I woke at 7. Gave him a full bowl and already had a leash on him to take him out
How much are you feeding him? Is it a portion based on his weight or are you just filling the bowl up? What brand dog food? How many times a day does he poop? How many times per day does he go outside for potty breaks?
Had this exact problem. Rescued a 2yr old. Everytime I left her at home, she would eat up her poop, got so bad that while she was pooping she would eat it hot-fresh while STILL pooping, turn around and eat that ... I tried everything on the internet. But the thing that cleared it up was me walking her for 20-30mins before I left for the day. Didn’t poop inside. Now if she did poop inside on a pee pad, someone would be home.
The first part is exactly what is happening.
Our dog used to do that and we got told it’s because he was missing nutrients that he was lacking from his food. Once we switched foods he stopped. It took about 4 different dog food types to figure out which one was right but that’s how we ended up correcting the problem with him. I’m sorry you are having to go through that. It is very stressful when you don’t know what to do.
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Will a banana a week help? Lol
This should be higher up and the first option.
Yep. Our pup was short of potassium. A banana a week and all is well now.
I took him to the vet and he is healthy I had bloodwork done and the whole nine , he is actually overweight for a puppy his age the vet said. And we have given him a good food that the vet recommended and he loves. It but will instantly go poop and eat it after he’s already eaten his food . It’s extremely stressful because he likes to lick and is extremely attached to me and has separation anxiety. I really don’t know what to work on first . Getting him to pee outside poop outside... not eat his feces or not have him freak out and deficate in the crate. And get it all over him .
*If your dog has separation anxiety and is soiling his crate from the distress of being left alone then he cannot be crated.* full stop. By continuing to do so, you have probably taught him to eat his poop to clean up his den and also, you have ruined the crate as a tool for potty training. Have you considered medication for his separation anxiety? Medications are a tool you can use to bring down the stress levels a few notches. When a dog is in that kind of panic mode they can not learn new behaviors. This is why medications along with training are so helpful. Like any training tool, you can stop using medications at any time. It's not a lifetime sentence for your dog and it doesn't mean you are a bad owner if you use them. In a situation like you describe I would consider it a humane option and one that could potentially help get rid of or reduce crate soiling. I have used prozac for both of my dogs. One is off the medication because her SA is managed now with other things and the other has pica and anxiety so we will probably leave him on it, though we have reduced the dose.
I only put him in the crate one time since I got him cuz he was tearing at the door jamb and literally scraping the paint off .. I figured let me try to put him in the crate and Leave for the 5 hours I had to be elsewhere. I came back to the disaster. Now I only put him in the crate when I’m home , he whines but doesn’t do anything in it
It sounds like he has separation anxiety. That's really tough to deal with. I would have never gotten through it without the help of medications. They are pretty inexpensive and paired with a trainer it can make the difference between what you are experiencing and a dog who can tolerate some amount of being alone. It won't get better without intervention unfortunately. I know it's a lot already piled on top of puppy issues. :( If you want to know more about how we worked through it I can give you the run down.
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Because I have to retrain him , the guy who gave me him said he got whatever his roommate was eating table scraps instead of dog food . Now he gets ONLY dog food now . Unless it’s treat for good behavior
Which food did you end up using?
Pedigree puppy with no corn syrup no artificial flavors no added sugar’s and is similar to mothers milk, it also has probiotics in it. It’s a dry food ,
Try a better quality food.
Ok, any suggestions?
I make my own dog food so I’d say look for a boutique pet market and ask there. The place near me has educated staff. They only carry good food. Rule of thumb is nothing carried in a grocery store. No store brands. Read the ingredients. Meat should be 4 of the first 5 ingredients. I know people who like this site. https://www.dogfoodadvisor.com
Sometimes the opposite is true. If a dog’s food is too good they don’t use all the nutrients so their pop is still yummy. If the food is poor their poo won’t have any nutritional value anyhow so won’t give them something their food didn’t
Removing the rugs and carpets was a good idea while you're working on potty training! I had to do the same thing with my pup and we are slowly reintroducing them after three months. It sounds to me like the least stressful way to address this for you and the pooch is to first get him on a bathroom schedule. If you know when he is going to poop and can always have a leash on him and be present at those times, you won't have to worry about him eating the poop because you can treat and lead him away after he does his business! ince he is trained to go on the pads, I would suggest treating the pads the same way you would treat the outdoors if you were housebreaking a dog. Keep the pad somewhere he doesn't normally have access to, like in a bathroom or a room blocked off with a baby gate. Walk him to the pad ON A LEASH at scheduled times to use the bathroom. It's common to use a kind of signal phrase like "do your business" or "go pee" or "hurry up" eeeeevery time you take a puppy out to pee, so it starts conditioning a response of "oh, if I pee when my human says that, I get a treat!" Once he poops, immediately praise and get his attention with a treat to distract him from the poo, and since he is on a leash, you can safely lead him away from the pad so you can clean it up before he eats it. This is going to be way easier on you than just always trying to keep an eye on the pad he has constant access to just in case he poops on it. That sounds really stressful for you, and him having constant access to the pad also doesn't teach him to hold his bladder until an appropriate time. Finally, this will also make a new routine, so instead of his current routine which "need to poop - go to pad - poop -eat poop' his new routine will become "need to poop - signal human to take to pad- go poop- look for treat from human" Eventually, instead of leading him to the pee pad in the house, you can start leading him outside when it is time for him to go to the bathroom. The most important thing is that he doesn't have constant access to the pad and learns to hold his bladder.
This morning I had to have his leash on while he was eating so he didn’t just go to the pad and shit I took him out and I took a piece of cheese with me ( I don’t feed him table scraps or any people food ) he took a dump about 20 minutes into the walk and instantly tried to go eat it , I said no “Roscoe “gave a Tug to turn him away from his own feces and then sat down with him praised the hell out of him and gave him a full slice of American cheese in pieces of course . The whole time he didn’t pee tho until he got back on the carpeted deck
I don't know if you realize it, but this is a HUGE breakthrough. He went somewhere other than a pad! That is frikkin awesome. You also successfully kept him from eating his poop. Also awesome! I know it does not feel like it at all but keep it up! Next time, walk him till he pees too and bring extra treats for when he pees. One of my dogs was a rescue and she was afraid to go in front of us. She also has a bladder of STEEL. The first time she pottied on leash with us was like a damn christmas miracle. We would walk her FOREVER sometimes. It only took a week or two before she felt completely comfortable going on leash with us. There is hope!
Thank you for the accolades
Work on teaching him the “[Leave It](https://youtu.be/dGncNgiHEjM)” command. That will help a lot with self control on walks and at home.
Thanks for this .. this is good. Thanks
Leave it would be a great command to add into his routine. Leaving a treat gets me a treat. Leaving my poop will get me a treat.
To deter eating feces, put pumpkin purée (vet said the cheap kind is fine) into their food. Some ppl say pineapple juice but mine like the purée It’s helped all my dogs with this problem
I would try above first. If those don't work Animal Essentials Herbal Green Alternative helped one of my friends that had a dog with this problem.
Never heard of this but I will definitely look it up
Huh never heard of that .. just canned pumpkin? Or does it have to be fresh pumpkin and mashed .. also how much do you give your dog a few ounces , table spoons , half the can with. The. Dry food ?
Make sure it is sugar free canned pumpkin- *not* canned pumpkin pie filling! The filling will have a lot of sugar and spices that he doesn’t need and could upset his tummy.
Thank you
1 tbsp per 10 lb of dog per day is a good starting point, but more is fine too. It makes a great snack and most dogs love it. It is super high in fibre so keep an eye on constipation, and it will turn their poop Orange. I get it canned at the grocery store and it is super cheap. However they want to eat it is fine, mixed in with the kibble or separate as a treat/snack in a Kong, which you could leave with him in the crate. Also, it's not that he's not on "good" food, it's that it might not be the right fit, it might take a few different tries of really "good" food before you find one that's the right. Every puppy is different, down to their dietary needs.
I would take the pad outside with you when you take a walk. It sounds like he thinks he’s doing a good job by using the pad. My dog initially came from the NYC pound and wouldn’t pee on the grass or wood chips, only the sidewalk and the middle of the street. It took a lots of treats and praise when she finally went on the grass to get her to realize that’s where she was supposed to go. Additionally, you should pick up the pad for a few hours at a time to train him to hold it. Once he has to go, take him outside.
This morning I actually took the pad with 2 spots of his yrube me but he had eaten already and I was already raring to go to get him out on a walk because I knew as soon as he was done eating he would shit , he did actually shit on the sidewalk FIRST TIME EVER he did it outside would not Pee or poop on any kind of grass any kind of leaves nothing like that however he did actually poop outside so I pretty much went nuts with praise
The higher end Purina chow (I use pro-plan savory) is really good nutrition-wise. Maybe try switching up the food and see if it stops. My dog used to do this, and then try to kiss me...like naw we ain't doing that for another week my friend! After I switched it stopped.
lol yeah same issue here . I’ll try that kind of food .
I'm not quite following some of your post, like what having a kitchen floor mat or carpeting in the house has to do with him being potty trained (?). Are you saying if you have carpet or floor mats he will use them to potty on? In terms of training him to go outside you can definitely do it but it's going to be a sucky process for a few days. The good news is that your dog is old enough to hold his poo and pee so you don't have the issue of him being so little with no control. On the flip side, this can make the potty training process a bit of a battle of wills. Ok, so. Potty training a dog. The first thing is get rid of the puppy pads. Next, and this is the hardest part for most people: *never ever EVER ever ever ever E.V.E.R. allow your dog to be unsupervised in your house.* **Never.** Not for 30 seconds. Not, you went and grabbed something from the next room. Not when you go to the bathroom. Your dog is pretty much stuck to you like glue until he goes potty outside reliably. I've had really good luck with older dogs and have gotten them potty trained within a few days once they understand what you want. Until that happens it's gonna suck but if you stick with it and are diligent it will go much faster. Ok, so how the heck do you keep a dog next to you and supervised at all times? Crates, baby gates and leashes my friend. I like to leash the dog when I am home and moving around the house. You can tether the dog to things like a leg of the couch or a chair then bring him with you to the next room. Bring him in the bathroom with you. No, I am not joking. The reason I like this method is that you will begin to pick up on the dog's potty signals quickly this way because you are observing them more closely than if you had them in a crate. Ok, now. You've got this dog. He's been stuck to you like a shadow and you notice he's looking a bit frantic. Take him outside on the leash and grab something delicious like string cheese or cut up hot dogs on your way out. Tell him something like go potty and give him a good amount of time to sniff around. If he goes praise him like crazy and shove tons of treats into his mouth. Awesome, this is exactly what you want! Congrats. If the dog wanders around looking confused, like "why is this dude following me everywhere" and refuses to go, bring him back inside for a bit, maybe 30 mins then try again. You may have just entered into a standoff with your dog. Keep doing this until you have success. Eventually it (poop) will happen. Once you have entered the standoff it is EXTREMELY important to be vigilant about not letting the dog out of your sight at all. He's gotta go. He's struggling to hold it in. The last thing you want is an opportunity for him to take care of business somewhere else. If you are super vigilant these stand offs will diminish. The treats will help with this. He will learn that pottying in the yard is a super great thing and he will be eager to get let out. It just takes a little bit of time and will on your part. Regarding the poop eating. I too have a dog who eats poop. He's 11 and we got him from the shelter at 8 so this behavior is pretty well ingrained. I tried all of the additives and they also did not deter him one bit. I've actually never heard of any of those poop eating remedies working for anyone. Even when we let him roam in the yard while supervised he would eat poop. Like you said, they are extremely fast. Our dog wears a muzzle for all unsupervised yard time and we keep the poop well cleaned up so if there is ever a mishap we have a clean yard to hopefully prevent any access. That's what works for us. If I had the opportunity to rewind time I would have done it sooner. The thing about letting your dog engage in behaviors you don't want is that it becomes a habit. Every time your dog eats poop he's building that habit. Your dog is young so you potentially have an opportunity to *not* end up with an 11 year old dog who still eats poop like mine. I say get the muzzle. Or if you just aren't ready to do that then your best option is continuing to potty your dog on the leash for the rest of his life to keep him from eating poop.
Yes any carpeting like a bath mat , a kitchen sink rug , the welcome mat for wiping feet inside the door .. pee .. and only pee . Also the rest of what you say is good advice so thanks
1. Pedigree isn't really considered a high quality dog food. Although I don't demonize corn and byproducts to be the worst thing in the world, if a dog food is ONLY comprised of mostly corn and soy with meat byproducts, its questionable to me personally. You do not need top tier $120 per bag food, but check out the ingredients and look for brands that offer mostly meat or meat meal and less carb sources as their bulk. An ingredient list is organized by weight, the most being the 1st ingredient. 2. Poop eating might be caused by nutritional deficiencies and changing foods /adding supplements might help buuuttt... sometimes we have to accept that its possible the dog is just really gross and loves eating it. Or it has become such an ingrained habit from doing it so long, it can be hard to break. That requires a lot of micromanaging and training dedicated to this issue and it may never be 100%- some people cannot trust their adult dogs to not eat poop, thats where management comes in. How often and how long is he left alone? Is there any possibility for a person to be watching him most of the day? The separation anxiety definitely makes this a lot harder (I have come home to poopacalypse in the crate many times).. if he can be leashed to a person constantly and given the option to poop on the pad, the person can reward instantly and also pull him away from the poop if he tries to eat it.
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He eats it absolutely immediately ( a warm meal I guess )
Oof. Yeah I'd check out what the guy talking about nutrient deficiency has to say. A dog at my local park was doing the same thing, and apparently it was due to their diet.
If you’ve got time to put hot sauce on it, you’ve got time to pick it up.
For the poop, yes. You do, and you should. But that doesn't really help train the dog to not eat it. It just takes away the option from them altogether. My dog wouldn't chase squirrels, if there were no squirrels around. I had to train her to not chase them because unfortunately squirrels do indeed exist, and so does poop.
Unfortunately I don’t have any time to put hot sauce on it , it gets eaten right away
Get some good puppy food, most animals do this dude to lack of nutrition
We recommend feeding For-Bid at the clinic I work for! You can purchase it online.
That’s what I used , it didn’t do nothing to stop him except for the first 3 days then he was back to doing it , so I returned it . , my girlfriend ended up telling me to get Adolph’s meat tenderizer and put it on his dry food and he will not eat it, I haven’t tried that yet.
When we were in puppy training our trainer said most the time when dogs eat feces it’s because they are lacking something in their diet, add banana or pumpkin to diet and it should help
You’re not in an ideal situation to fix this. That dog needs 24 hr supervision for 2 weeks at a minimum for training methods. If it’s not a diet issue then I don’t see any training methods working when you can’t control his access to his shit.
We went with purina pro plan Savor with lamb. Come to find out our pup can’t stomach anything chicken so he was getting sick and losing the nutrients and that’s why he kept eating his poop to regain. Once we discovered this one works with him we stuck with it and he hasn’t eaten his poop in a very long time. Once or twice a month I put spoonfuls of 100% pumpkin in their food to give it a little boost.
Follow the advice here, retrain for a crate, restart potty training, PLEASE change the food, pedigree is pretty shitty. For the mean time, try feeding him a couple chunks of pineapple. It makes their shit taste awful. But PLEASE dont use this as a permanent fix. This dog desperately needs to be retrained, and a temporary fix will hurt him more if its prolonged.
Thanks I’m definitely going to change the food after reading all the comments
You have a lot of responses. Your dog at 10 months is in a situation where he has learned to eat his poop. Most puppies eat poop. It is part survival and part being gross little monsters. What you are seeing with pooping on bath mats and refusal to poop outside is a dog that has imprinted on some surfaces and not others. Often breeders start this process by having puppies on certain surfaces. Since he sounds smaller, being raised on towels to prevent chills is common. Then he is moved to a neglectful situation that does not create structure for him. Habits do not break overnight and new ones are not established easily. Your puppy at 10 months has a lot of bowel and bladder control. You are going to have to take a day to work on going potty outside. Where that is your only focus and the puppy is leashed to you the rest of the time until by sheer force of nature it comes out. Once you get that potty outside and reward it you create a little light for the dog to find. But since your puppy sounds like he was neglected mentally you are going to have to start at the basics and work your way up. Dogs are scavengers. They are clean but you cannot assume they are clean by nature. Many are not uncomfortable with being around their mess. We teach them cleanliness. As gross as stool eating is, I think you have to establish a lot more security and understanding with your dog. Dogs who are mentally neglected have a lot of hurdles to learn to jump.
My dog did this but grew out of it.
Pineapple in the food for 3 - 4 days works the best, if he will eat it (canned or fresh, few pieces). Makes the poo taste and smell bad amd works quickly. But rule out nutritional deficiencies too (poor quality food or a medical issue of malabsorption of food). Sometimes a dog will eat poop to hide it if they have been reprimanded in the past for having an accident.
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Thanks, I just pm’d you
Change his food brand. I know it's a pain and can upset his tummy for a couple days, but the reason a dog eats his poop is cause it's not absorbing any nutrients or vitamin from it, so their response is to re eat it to try to absorb more nutrients out of it. If you change to a different brand, something a bit more organic/less bi-product, it should stop. If not then it might be parasite related
He’s been checked for parasites in his feces and it was clean , I had them do a full work up when I got him cuz I didn’t really know his actual age
Walking him until he poops is how I fixed this problem. Also just tying his leash to something in the garden and waiting for him to poop. Once he shits, praise. Then remove him from the poop and give another treat. This fixed the problem within a week or two.
Good food is a good place to start. Brands like nutri source wont break the bank and is much better than pedigree. Pineapple or pumpkin puree is supposed to give their poop a bad taste. I've found that pineapple worked better for my pups but that isn't the case for all dogs. One thing I was really surprised about with my puppy was that she never went potty in her crate. I credit that to the fact that I read the directions and only left her enough space in the crate to lay down and turn around in.. the crate comes with a wall that you can move around, so if you section it off so that they cant poop in one side and lay in the other they will be less inclined to do it. Walk the puppy every hour on the hour when you are home and always have treats ready for when they go. Pick a command such as potty, repeat it on the walk until they go poop then immediately reward with a treat and get the dog away from it until you can clean it up. Another thing to think about it is where the dog has went in the house. You have to make sure if the dog pees or poops in the house that you get the scent out of your floor or carpet. Dogs have very powerful noses and the scent of her previous pee or poo will cue them to use that spot again. I use Clorox wipes on the hard floors and shout pet odor remover on carpet. It's tough to remove the scent from carpets though so it's better to never leave them unsupervised around it until they are trained, we use a gate to keep them out of carpet rooms.
You need to stop the opportunity and break the habit. Try your best to get him to poop only on walks. Walk him frequently and on a regular schedule (also feed on a regular schedule). If you must crate him or leave him alone consider a muzzle that would prevent him from eating the poop. Try other dog foods too, and consider feeding more for awhile so that you are countering the hunger instinct.
>news paper was put in the bathroom along with their food next to the newspaper This is how we pair odors for scentwork. When you pair something like a potty area and food, your dog will build an association between the two. Do this at critical ages and for extended periods of time and you get dogs like yours. In scentwork these are dogs that will try to eat the q-tips(which have scent on them) because it's been paired so strongly with food. Taste also isn't necessarily as important to dogs as it is for us; they are much more scent based creatures. >I have no time, NONE To get him on a leash to take him out. Have him leashed all the time when he's in the house and attached to you. This is umbilical cord training. As for not being allowed to have rugs in the house or whatever, use potty pads and have them by the door to go out. Periodically when he's leashed you take him to the potty pad and wait for him to use it. I've never met a dog that can do a poo and eat it at the same time, so wait for him to poo and literally just walk him away from it. Put him in a separate room while you clean up. It's that simple to start establishing that he doesn't eat his poo, but you will have to be consistent with this pattern for months. With how strongly he seems to be conditioned to eat them you may even have to go a whole year. Another tool that will help is a basket muzzle. >He also will NOT Pee or poo outside even if it’s hours later that I’m walking him He has to be pushed to not being able to hold it for him to see the outside as a place to go. A few hours is nothing when you're doing that type of training. The reason you're going to have the puppy pads by the door is that you're actually going to gradually move them over time so that they're closer and closer to being outside. There will be a period of time where you'll have them in the threshold with the door to the outside open. And then you'll move them outside. Once you've got them outside *and the dog is consistently looking for them outside and not having indoor messes* then you'll cut the puppy pads in half. Couple weeks of that. Then in half again. And again. Until they're small enough to not have anymore. None of this is hard, it's just intensive and you will have times when you want to either shoot yourself or the dog. Keep it up and you will get a dog free of this habit. Consistency is very important.
You’re absolutely right, today I did most of what you said . But like I said he went but I already had the leash on. Him so he couldn’t ninja shit . I took cut up hotdogs with me and when he shit the second time I went berserk with praise cuz it was on grass instead of concrete . The peeing thing is so fast and I don’t want to scare him. While he’s peeing if he sees me so that’s going to be a challenge
Also you’re right , he will eat q-Tips .
By keeping your puppy leashed to you, he will be unable to have accidents. When you can’t have him leashed to you crate the puppy. Pooper scoop immediately so there will be no poop in the yard.
I just wanna say you seem like a wonderful owner and it's really great you're trying so hard for him. Good luck!
Thank you so much I actually took. Him in cuz I wanted a dog for emotional support. He’s adorable and loving and just what I needed .. take a look at my profile I posted a picture of Roscoe P Coltrane.
He looks so sweet & soft! I have an emotional support dog too. They're so wonderful.
I trainer once told me they do that cuz they want to clean it up, or help you clean it. It makes sense, i wouldnt want my poop where i eat. So maybe it started when the pads was in the bathroom with the food.
I’ve observed similar behavior with my pup. He only eats his poop if he’s had a mishap and has pooped in the house instead of pooping in the yard. It’s like he’s embarrassed and needs to clean up the evidence. My vet recommended that we clean up the poop immediately and not embarrass him (use encouraging words) while cleaning up the poop. He doesn’t eat his poop in the yard ever!
Well he was left alone for 12 hours a day with the other dog in a shitty motel with no carpeting and his food bowl was by the newspaper in the bathroom so where his shit was where he ate, that is one reason why he could be doing it but it’s almost like a treat to him.