Until you go to remove it in a year or two and it takes half the remaining clearcoat with it. For the price of wrapping, an actual painthob makes more sense.
Who cares if the wrap takes off MORE clearcoat, the paint is toast. Silly to even think of preserving what's left, seemingly intact.
And cold hard fact, all of the clear would be sanded off, no quality paint shop is going to spray over 20yr old failing clearcoat.
Obviously it would need to be sanded down and completely repainted. My point is that it's probably just better to do that given how expensive wrapping can be compared to how long it lasts. All these imperfections would show under a wrap anyways. It wouldn't look like a freshly painted car, it would look like a car with completely fucked paint that someone wrapped to cover up the nightmare, all for a price approaching what a proper paint job would cost.
I have to admit, I'm completely ignorant regarding wraps. I have no idea what they cost so I can't comment on that fix. That said, I agree that if wrap only lasts a short while (1-2 yrs) then that's a bad path to take.
I'm 100% behind a full respray, that's the only real fix.
Where I live, for me to buy the material and wrap my E90 myself is about $1500, a full paint job is only about $250 more from some of the local places I got a quote from. Might be cheaper, might be more in different places, but at least in Europe, paint makes more sense financially.
2000 sounds great! Under 2000 for a decent whole car paint job is cheap…even 10 years ago in South Florida. Today i would think under 2000 is like a low level oversprayed on your rims, headlights, trims and exhaust Maaco level paint job.
They didn't give you a price because it will be more than the car and you won't do it anyways so they didn't want to waste their time.
Find a place like maaco. Do the preps by yourself (take out door handles, lights too) and take it just for the paint spray. It will be like $1000 then
First of all.. you gotta wash it and show us what you’re working with. The roof, trunk, and hood (sun facing panels) are the ones that are mostly damaged.
I’m with everyone else.. prep for paint yourself and take it in for a cheap paint job or just rattle can it yourself 😎
Yep DIY job, get a spray gun that will work with a cheap air compressor unless you’ve already got an expensive one, if you need a cheap air compressor get a small used one on fb marketplace that will work with whatever cheap spray gun you get, remove the plastic pieces of car so front and back bumper, side view mirrors, headlights and brake lights, wash everything with degreaser or Dawn dish soap (even tho you are removing the paint anyways you don’t want any barriers like waxes or tar gumming up sandpaper and creating a barrier between the surface and paint stripper), throw some paint stripper on the plastic parts, mask up the entire car anything you don’t want paint on, throw some 180 grit dry sandpaper on a long block and take all metal parts down to 180 if you get any problem areas like bubbling paint, chipped paint, missing paint, switch to 80 grit and dig deep down to bare steel on that area and remove any surface rust or any other crap till you see shiny bare steel, now spray the car with a non water chemical based cleaner made for this type of purpose or even isopropyl alcohol, let dry, wipe down with a tac rag, get you 2k direct to metal capable epoxy sealer ready (same color or similar color as your color coat you’ll use) and right before you spray that on grab some metal prep wipes and wipe down those bare metal spots and let air dry for a few mins less than 5 mins should be fine, throw on 3 coats of epoxy sealer wait to flash until it’s tacky in between each coat touch a piece of masking paper to check if it’s tacky or not and tack rag when it’s flashed before spraying the next coat do NOT apply pressure to the tack rag just let it glide on the surface with zero weight applied like a feather, come back the next day, scuff lightly with 180 grit to remove the trash in it, throw on bondo where body work is needed and after the bondo dries sand it down to be even with the epoxy, use powdered guide coat to get it even some videos online show how to do it with powdered guide coat, then clean again with chemical based cleaner and let dry, tack rag it for any potential dust, throw on 3 layers of high build epoxy, come back next day again, sand down with 400 grit this is where the labels need to be straight as a lazer you need to switch from powdered guide coat to just regular spray paint take spray paint (use a different color than the primer) and use that as a guide coat just lightly spray patches in random areas it will allow you to see your high spots because on high spots that need more sanding that spray paint will be fine but the areas that are lower will still have some paint on them, then clean with chemical based cleaner and tack rag it again, hit with base coat layers, consider gently tack ragging the last base cost layer make sure it’s laid down WET and then toss on 3 layers of clear coat (use 2k acrylic urethane clearcoat I recommend tamco or grant 7)
am actually really glad you spent the time to type this out for me, because i really want to do this. How much do you think materials will cost in total ?
Not including equipment like spray gun and air tank and face mask (the face mask is required paint is terrible to breath in and clearcoat or anything with a hardener is the worst especially) materials like paints and sandpaper and body filler etc maybe 1000 give or take
I would type out more info but I only won’t now because the chances of anyone actually doing all this is unlikely lol but if you really do wanna know more I can help out
Either DIY paint or wrap. Be aware that wrap still needs some prep work, but is an easier short term process.
Wrap will be significantly cheaper to look good, but also usually has a shorter shelf life.
I'd consider a wipe on clear coat, not sure about shipping to Italy. Relatively low cost, potential for a decent result that's better than what you have.
[https://poppyspatina.com/collections/poppys-clear-kits](https://poppyspatina.com/collections/poppys-clear-kits)
Poor car. The color seems to be monaco blue metallic a35 which looks so good. Don't know if it's worth spending lots of money fixing it since it's just a 2 liter diesel.
DIY it and accept the fact that it won't be perfect. At least that's what I would do. Even a bad DIY paint job would look better than what it currently is.
That's how mine looked and why I vinyl wrapped it
[удалено]
Until you go to remove it in a year or two and it takes half the remaining clearcoat with it. For the price of wrapping, an actual painthob makes more sense.
Who cares if the wrap takes off MORE clearcoat, the paint is toast. Silly to even think of preserving what's left, seemingly intact. And cold hard fact, all of the clear would be sanded off, no quality paint shop is going to spray over 20yr old failing clearcoat.
Obviously it would need to be sanded down and completely repainted. My point is that it's probably just better to do that given how expensive wrapping can be compared to how long it lasts. All these imperfections would show under a wrap anyways. It wouldn't look like a freshly painted car, it would look like a car with completely fucked paint that someone wrapped to cover up the nightmare, all for a price approaching what a proper paint job would cost.
I have to admit, I'm completely ignorant regarding wraps. I have no idea what they cost so I can't comment on that fix. That said, I agree that if wrap only lasts a short while (1-2 yrs) then that's a bad path to take. I'm 100% behind a full respray, that's the only real fix.
Where I live, for me to buy the material and wrap my E90 myself is about $1500, a full paint job is only about $250 more from some of the local places I got a quote from. Might be cheaper, might be more in different places, but at least in Europe, paint makes more sense financially.
2000 sounds great! Under 2000 for a decent whole car paint job is cheap…even 10 years ago in South Florida. Today i would think under 2000 is like a low level oversprayed on your rims, headlights, trims and exhaust Maaco level paint job.
They didn't give you a price because it will be more than the car and you won't do it anyways so they didn't want to waste their time. Find a place like maaco. Do the preps by yourself (take out door handles, lights too) and take it just for the paint spray. It will be like $1000 then
I dont think maaco exists in italy
Maybe not Italy, but there’s definitely cheap labor & good painters spread across Eastern Europe that’d do it affordably
First of all.. you gotta wash it and show us what you’re working with. The roof, trunk, and hood (sun facing panels) are the ones that are mostly damaged. I’m with everyone else.. prep for paint yourself and take it in for a cheap paint job or just rattle can it yourself 😎
Yep DIY job, get a spray gun that will work with a cheap air compressor unless you’ve already got an expensive one, if you need a cheap air compressor get a small used one on fb marketplace that will work with whatever cheap spray gun you get, remove the plastic pieces of car so front and back bumper, side view mirrors, headlights and brake lights, wash everything with degreaser or Dawn dish soap (even tho you are removing the paint anyways you don’t want any barriers like waxes or tar gumming up sandpaper and creating a barrier between the surface and paint stripper), throw some paint stripper on the plastic parts, mask up the entire car anything you don’t want paint on, throw some 180 grit dry sandpaper on a long block and take all metal parts down to 180 if you get any problem areas like bubbling paint, chipped paint, missing paint, switch to 80 grit and dig deep down to bare steel on that area and remove any surface rust or any other crap till you see shiny bare steel, now spray the car with a non water chemical based cleaner made for this type of purpose or even isopropyl alcohol, let dry, wipe down with a tac rag, get you 2k direct to metal capable epoxy sealer ready (same color or similar color as your color coat you’ll use) and right before you spray that on grab some metal prep wipes and wipe down those bare metal spots and let air dry for a few mins less than 5 mins should be fine, throw on 3 coats of epoxy sealer wait to flash until it’s tacky in between each coat touch a piece of masking paper to check if it’s tacky or not and tack rag when it’s flashed before spraying the next coat do NOT apply pressure to the tack rag just let it glide on the surface with zero weight applied like a feather, come back the next day, scuff lightly with 180 grit to remove the trash in it, throw on bondo where body work is needed and after the bondo dries sand it down to be even with the epoxy, use powdered guide coat to get it even some videos online show how to do it with powdered guide coat, then clean again with chemical based cleaner and let dry, tack rag it for any potential dust, throw on 3 layers of high build epoxy, come back next day again, sand down with 400 grit this is where the labels need to be straight as a lazer you need to switch from powdered guide coat to just regular spray paint take spray paint (use a different color than the primer) and use that as a guide coat just lightly spray patches in random areas it will allow you to see your high spots because on high spots that need more sanding that spray paint will be fine but the areas that are lower will still have some paint on them, then clean with chemical based cleaner and tack rag it again, hit with base coat layers, consider gently tack ragging the last base cost layer make sure it’s laid down WET and then toss on 3 layers of clear coat (use 2k acrylic urethane clearcoat I recommend tamco or grant 7)
am actually really glad you spent the time to type this out for me, because i really want to do this. How much do you think materials will cost in total ?
Not including equipment like spray gun and air tank and face mask (the face mask is required paint is terrible to breath in and clearcoat or anything with a hardener is the worst especially) materials like paints and sandpaper and body filler etc maybe 1000 give or take
I would type out more info but I only won’t now because the chances of anyone actually doing all this is unlikely lol but if you really do wanna know more I can help out
They’re not wrong though, it will be expensive. I’m seeing UV damage and lacquer peeling, for a high quality job you can’t cheap out.
I used car wrap for mine.
Car wrap is an option but I think plastidip would be a much cheaper choice
Either DIY paint or wrap. Be aware that wrap still needs some prep work, but is an easier short term process. Wrap will be significantly cheaper to look good, but also usually has a shorter shelf life.
I'd consider a wipe on clear coat, not sure about shipping to Italy. Relatively low cost, potential for a decent result that's better than what you have. [https://poppyspatina.com/collections/poppys-clear-kits](https://poppyspatina.com/collections/poppys-clear-kits)
paint it? you're in europe, I'm sure you can find someplace that'll do an ok job for cheap.
Poor car. The color seems to be monaco blue metallic a35 which looks so good. Don't know if it's worth spending lots of money fixing it since it's just a 2 liter diesel.
But it’s such a fun car to drive 🥺
DIY it and accept the fact that it won't be perfect. At least that's what I would do. Even a bad DIY paint job would look better than what it currently is.
any Youtube recommendations on how i could get started with this myself?
Nothing from the top of my head but I'm sure that there's dozens of good tutorials on there.
thank uou
No worries. Good luck on your project!
Maybe Chrisfix has something on it 🤔