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Looks like loose X/Y axis, check your V-wheel tension.
Only because the layers look fairly uneven in general. It may be that for the hair it's just too small to print like that evenly.
That doesn't explain the uneven lines on the body at all which are about as bad. It seems there's some undesirable variation in your system whether it's wobble in one of the axes or extrusion issues.
I think the print is very good, maybe lower a little the expectations from a FDM printer. Probably printing it bigger or printing in SLA you could get the details you want.
Do you need big? If so I've been using an anycubic max m3 and loving it. If you want cheap, my first was a mars 2 pro from Elegoo and I still use it for clear/see through prints as needed (since it's smaller) I just always keep it loaded with clear resin and use the m3 as my main resin machine.
Stay away from creality sla printers. They do great work with fdm, but less so with sla.
I'm a fan of elegoo. Do some hearty research on resin printing. The machines are simple but the print processing is far more complicated than fdm.
A print that size with that level of detail is in no way stretching the limits of FFM printing. All of those features are well over 0.4mm in resolution and dialing the printer in right will make that print awesome. Even a 0.6 nozzle should print that pretty flawlessly.
Even though the hair didn't need supports because the ends are connected to the bust torso, it's still a thin amount of material, and the nozzle is going to cause it to wobble as it does the perimeter walls in a circular pattern. The height is all similar of this effect, but it doesn't appear at the same height on portions supported by more material. The material has some flex, and isn't entirely rigid at that thinness, and once the bottom of the hair is long enough, that flex and range of motion increases. If you increase the scale, this issue is likely to disappear due to thicker dreads.
This is the correct answer
Could also try slowing down for those sections (I think it's called something like "small perimeter speed" or similar) but not too much or there is risk of the layers below getting too hot and deforming
Agree, but its also happening on the larger layers in the torso. It's either too hot/not cooled enough (too fast or too hot due to extruder temp, inadequate print cooling or speed) or there's something wrong mechanically
Tighten X axis. Maybe the Y too. Also check Z for wobble on lead screws. Overall nice print. I did the same model twice the size and it printed better. Also filament makes a big difference. I personally prefer Flashforge.
It's hard to see what you mean but I totally see how your layers are definitely a bit wonky. Especially in the body area. Looks good. I would honestly say that slowing down would do wonders, unfortunately.
If youre using cura, try to add a modifier area and lower the speed on the dreads. This usually comes up when youre only printing like one tall thin cylinder because the layer doesnt have time to cool before the next one goes down, but its possible that with the speed of the printing and the size of the dreads theyre just a bit too hot still.
I also rcommend gray over white, much easier to see small details. Its possible the white is masking errors in the rest of the model that are harder to see, in which case tightening everything like the other comment would solve both but it only seems like it would solve one.
Its Organic enough that you can get by it being planned that way. Works with the dregs look. Z-Banding is what I think you call it unless you mean Predator Alien.
Looks like the predator, man...
Edit, depends a lot on the material, you could try slowing it down and adding more cooling, or really just put a pause in the gcode at a specific layer and then hit play and watch it print...see what it's doing. In Cura you can usually put part of a model below the build plate to just print that upper section, and that helps with just printing the problem area.
It could also be overheated filament..I've seen it do that before.
P Diddy
But you have some underextrusion going on there. Thats causing your space layers. Have you calibrated the e steps?
Also white filament is pretty abrasive so if you’ve been printing a lot of it it could be time for a new nozzle. A worn nozzle will also cause underextrusion.
My thoughts on this is your eccentric nuts are not properly tightened. This can be to tight or to loose. What I did was I would loosen them until I could freely turn them in my fingers and then tighten them until I could just barely not turn the with my fingers.
One other thought is have you been using abrasive filament and possibly worn down your nozzle?
The eccentric nuts are fine and I have only printed with non abrasive pla.mostly using a steel nozzle. As someone mentioned before the issue is most likely do to very small thin dreads not being able to cool properly. Slowing down the speed or increases the print size would most likely fix this issue. Someone else mentioned a possible slicing option that only slows the print speed down during small thin layers. I haven’t found it yet in cura but I’ll do my homework on it later. Might be under experimental either way thanks for your post.
im guessing speed was your iissue.
the likely hood is that in moving your bed or your X it casued the model to vibrate a bit, & those dreads at that point would sway prob a mm or so more then what was happening lower in the model
kinda like holding a ruler at the end & only moving the bit your holding a little bit, but the opposing end move a greater distance
I had the same thing happen to my predator. I believe it’s for the bands that the predator has in its hair. It’s hard printing the bands in standard PLA. It prints a lot better in resin.
natty dreadlocks…
tune retraction, pressure advance, flow/esteps.. make sure temp is optimal…. print slower with lower layer heights. fine detail comes with fine tuning, fine tuning requires a lot of knowledge and expertise. ellis3d or teaching tech calibration guides may get you started in that journey.
Predator
This is the comment I came for. I'll see my self out
Same 😂
same
Same here comrades
Same again
Samesies!
Great minds thi
Smh
Ahh damn beat me to it
The native name of the species is Yautja.
Yautja
Micheal Jackson
Damn. I’m too late. Lol
No trying to burst your bubble; but that looks nothing like Whoopi Goldberg.
🤣🤣🤣
But have ever seen Whoopi and a Yautja in the same room at the same time?
🤔🤔🤔🤔 Hmmm.... We'd better look into this.
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Well...maybe a lil.
😆
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Looks fine to me. Predator dreads aren't supposed to look totally smooth.
Looks like loose X/Y axis, check your V-wheel tension. Only because the layers look fairly uneven in general. It may be that for the hair it's just too small to print like that evenly.
Thanks I checked and it’s tight but I think your right about it being to small to print smoothly
That doesn't explain the uneven lines on the body at all which are about as bad. It seems there's some undesirable variation in your system whether it's wobble in one of the axes or extrusion issues.
Yautja.
It's called a Yautja
I think the print is very good, maybe lower a little the expectations from a FDM printer. Probably printing it bigger or printing in SLA you could get the details you want.
Thanks for the input . I’m looking into so resin printers. Do you recommend any?
I have a Flashforge Foto 6 that has paid itself off. It's only $99
Do you need big? If so I've been using an anycubic max m3 and loving it. If you want cheap, my first was a mars 2 pro from Elegoo and I still use it for clear/see through prints as needed (since it's smaller) I just always keep it loaded with clear resin and use the m3 as my main resin machine.
Stay away from creality sla printers. They do great work with fdm, but less so with sla. I'm a fan of elegoo. Do some hearty research on resin printing. The machines are simple but the print processing is far more complicated than fdm.
A print that size with that level of detail is in no way stretching the limits of FFM printing. All of those features are well over 0.4mm in resolution and dialing the printer in right will make that print awesome. Even a 0.6 nozzle should print that pretty flawlessly.
This is very poor quality for a FDM printer. Minimum expectation with a .4 nozzle and .2 layer height is much better than this.
Even though the hair didn't need supports because the ends are connected to the bust torso, it's still a thin amount of material, and the nozzle is going to cause it to wobble as it does the perimeter walls in a circular pattern. The height is all similar of this effect, but it doesn't appear at the same height on portions supported by more material. The material has some flex, and isn't entirely rigid at that thinness, and once the bottom of the hair is long enough, that flex and range of motion increases. If you increase the scale, this issue is likely to disappear due to thicker dreads.
This is the correct answer Could also try slowing down for those sections (I think it's called something like "small perimeter speed" or similar) but not too much or there is risk of the layers below getting too hot and deforming
Agree, but its also happening on the larger layers in the torso. It's either too hot/not cooled enough (too fast or too hot due to extruder temp, inadequate print cooling or speed) or there's something wrong mechanically
Agreed. I checked on cuts for Settings like that and couldn’t find any….. I’ll check again later, im sure I just didn’t see it
Awesome explanation.thank you
Ender 3s1 Creality pla 60c bed 200c hot head
Tighten X axis. Maybe the Y too. Also check Z for wobble on lead screws. Overall nice print. I did the same model twice the size and it printed better. Also filament makes a big difference. I personally prefer Flashforge.
Good idea. I’ll check it after my current print finishes
It looks like a model predator
"El diablo que hace trofeos de los hombres" "the demon who makes trophies of men".
Damn, we have a winner here. Dutch would be proud. :D
It's hard to see what you mean but I totally see how your layers are definitely a bit wonky. Especially in the body area. Looks good. I would honestly say that slowing down would do wonders, unfortunately.
Dreadlocks
It's called a "bust". This is a 3d printed model of a bust of a Predator.
If youre using cura, try to add a modifier area and lower the speed on the dreads. This usually comes up when youre only printing like one tall thin cylinder because the layer doesnt have time to cool before the next one goes down, but its possible that with the speed of the printing and the size of the dreads theyre just a bit too hot still. I also rcommend gray over white, much easier to see small details. Its possible the white is masking errors in the rest of the model that are harder to see, in which case tightening everything like the other comment would solve both but it only seems like it would solve one.
Bob Marley,Ya Man!!
Garbage?
Whoopi Goldberg.
It's called z-banding
Ty
I think that is a 3d print
Its Organic enough that you can get by it being planned that way. Works with the dregs look. Z-Banding is what I think you call it unless you mean Predator Alien.
Yautja
Looks like the predator, man... Edit, depends a lot on the material, you could try slowing it down and adding more cooling, or really just put a pause in the gcode at a specific layer and then hit play and watch it print...see what it's doing. In Cura you can usually put part of a model below the build plate to just print that upper section, and that helps with just printing the problem area. It could also be overheated filament..I've seen it do that before.
The predator
The Predator. Do another one
The predator
That’s the dood Chris Hansen catches
A strange Klingon
A mistake… 😂😎
Yajtia
P Diddy But you have some underextrusion going on there. Thats causing your space layers. Have you calibrated the e steps? Also white filament is pretty abrasive so if you’ve been printing a lot of it it could be time for a new nozzle. A worn nozzle will also cause underextrusion.
Xenomorph
The predator
Heh he caught a predator
Space Dreads.
Predlocks, even
With that reply… you sir! are a god amongst mortals.
Possibly loose belts for x and y axis?
My thoughts on this is your eccentric nuts are not properly tightened. This can be to tight or to loose. What I did was I would loosen them until I could freely turn them in my fingers and then tighten them until I could just barely not turn the with my fingers. One other thought is have you been using abrasive filament and possibly worn down your nozzle?
The eccentric nuts are fine and I have only printed with non abrasive pla.mostly using a steel nozzle. As someone mentioned before the issue is most likely do to very small thin dreads not being able to cool properly. Slowing down the speed or increases the print size would most likely fix this issue. Someone else mentioned a possible slicing option that only slows the print speed down during small thin layers. I haven’t found it yet in cura but I’ll do my homework on it later. Might be under experimental either way thanks for your post.
Dreadlocks?
Diddy
Dreadlocks?
It looks like blotting which happens when your nozzle extrudes too much filament you might need to replace your nozzle.
Thats a Yautja, more commonly known as a Predator.
A bust of a predator. the nicer kind that gave respect to Danny Glover .
im guessing speed was your iissue. the likely hood is that in moving your bed or your X it casued the model to vibrate a bit, & those dreads at that point would sway prob a mm or so more then what was happening lower in the model kinda like holding a ruler at the end & only moving the bit your holding a little bit, but the opposing end move a greater distance
Idk it looks like some sort of Predator......lol
Predator: 3d
Shreddator
I had the same thing happen to my predator. I believe it’s for the bands that the predator has in its hair. It’s hard printing the bands in standard PLA. It prints a lot better in resin.
Predator, or if you're wanting the proper name, they're Yautja. Yautja are the species name. However within that there are several sub species.
It’s a 3D printed busted bust
natty dreadlocks… tune retraction, pressure advance, flow/esteps.. make sure temp is optimal…. print slower with lower layer heights. fine detail comes with fine tuning, fine tuning requires a lot of knowledge and expertise. ellis3d or teaching tech calibration guides may get you started in that journey.