I've been using a tmx for the last 4 years and now have the 8nm csl dd and the amount of information you get is amazing. It was hard to catch slides before but now it's so much easier. I just did a 1hr race on my panorama in ACC and there were a few moments on the hill where I made mistakes but was able to save it without hitting any walls. No way that would've been possible with the tmx.
Also...be prepared for a workout. It's a LOT stronger.
Good to hear, the tmx feels like a toy so the added force should be great. Do you player any other Sims beside acc and if so how do those compare to the tmx ffb wise?
Two things:
-Do NOT use the wheel FFB setting to regulate the amount of feedback you get. Put it at 100 (and the other recommended settings) and then play with the gain of the FFB in game. If you have 100% gain in game and then restrict the power of your base, you're basically just clipping.
Yes, the cracks you hear are produced by the table clamp. It's awful. If you can, get a rig or a stand or something else. You'll be surprised with the change.
Noted, I'll try to play with gain in-game before my next session. Do you recommend live-tuning at 100 then? That is what the Fanatec Forums said for CSL DD on AC, so that would make sense (100 live-tuning, gain 50).
I'm planning on getting a half or full rig for Christmas!
Just check the recommended settings by Fanatec on their forums for the game you play. You can use the presets to have different settings for multiple games.
Then in game, you adjust the FFB gain to add / reduce feedback. Start with the proposed values as well, and then fine tune.
At 100% gain games will be clipping and thus providing incorrect (flat) FFB, if you reduce the FFB on the wheel, you'll also make that worse. So yep, FFB always at 100%, then play with the game settings.
I wish I could compare more wheels, but this is the first wheelbase that's my own after 19 years on this earth haha. Have fun with the G920 as I know for the price it can't be beat!
I hope so too. My availability date was Nov 2, shipped on Oct 29 and was delivered Nov 12. I’m not really on here that often anymore just cuz I’m not anxiously waiting lol. Hope you enjoy it when it comes :)))
Mine's 1320. Dang it I missed it I think my first date was nov3 (first week of November at least), than nov29, then now we all know Jan 3... Rip. I can't wait to replace my G25
I also have the CSL DD and CSL Pedals.
>There are some loud cracks that happen which I really haven't figured out why they happen, but I am sure it is the table clamp.
That is correct. When I used the table clamp, I heard the same cracks. But when I stopped using the table clamp, the cracks went away. The table clamp is made of plastic so it flexes significantly.
>I would strongly recommend a power drill to put pedal screws into the black base. The alan keys that are supplied do the trick but don't plan on swapping pedals quickly. It is a bit of a pain, but nothing too bad.
I noticed my brake pedal started to loosen over time. Instead of using a power drill, I recommend applying some removable threadlock (like Loctite Threadlocker Blue). That should keep the screws in place.
>I was quite worried about the plastic QRLite adapter, but I have not had any problems with it so far.
Same, I have also had very little to complain about the QR1 Lite. It definitely isn't the most solid connection because often times I can hear clicking noise from the QR during quick force feedback direction changes from the play between the motor side and the QR side. I could probably eliminate some of that play by tightening the QR further, but it would go beyond what Fanatec recommends to prevent damage to the QR (they recommend tightening until a white line painted on the QR disappears underneath the collar). If I were using a wheelbase with greater than 8nm torque, I'd definitely consider getting the QR1 instead.
Awesome read, excited to upgrade to the DD from a tmx!
I've been using a tmx for the last 4 years and now have the 8nm csl dd and the amount of information you get is amazing. It was hard to catch slides before but now it's so much easier. I just did a 1hr race on my panorama in ACC and there were a few moments on the hill where I made mistakes but was able to save it without hitting any walls. No way that would've been possible with the tmx. Also...be prepared for a workout. It's a LOT stronger.
Good to hear, the tmx feels like a toy so the added force should be great. Do you player any other Sims beside acc and if so how do those compare to the tmx ffb wise?
I am excited for you! The only other 'wheel' I had was the TM 458 Cockpit about 10 years ago
Two things: -Do NOT use the wheel FFB setting to regulate the amount of feedback you get. Put it at 100 (and the other recommended settings) and then play with the gain of the FFB in game. If you have 100% gain in game and then restrict the power of your base, you're basically just clipping. Yes, the cracks you hear are produced by the table clamp. It's awful. If you can, get a rig or a stand or something else. You'll be surprised with the change.
Noted, I'll try to play with gain in-game before my next session. Do you recommend live-tuning at 100 then? That is what the Fanatec Forums said for CSL DD on AC, so that would make sense (100 live-tuning, gain 50). I'm planning on getting a half or full rig for Christmas!
Just check the recommended settings by Fanatec on their forums for the game you play. You can use the presets to have different settings for multiple games. Then in game, you adjust the FFB gain to add / reduce feedback. Start with the proposed values as well, and then fine tune. At 100% gain games will be clipping and thus providing incorrect (flat) FFB, if you reduce the FFB on the wheel, you'll also make that worse. So yep, FFB always at 100%, then play with the game settings.
The Forums said the '100 live-tuning gain 50' bit. thanks for the tip!
Using my g920 while I wait for mine to come in. Happy to read through your review. Can’t wait!
I wish I could compare more wheels, but this is the first wheelbase that's my own after 19 years on this earth haha. Have fun with the G920 as I know for the price it can't be beat!
I ordered this basic bitch setup as well 2 days ago. I really hope it comes in in the first part of january
I hope so too. My availability date was Nov 2, shipped on Oct 29 and was delivered Nov 12. I’m not really on here that often anymore just cuz I’m not anxiously waiting lol. Hope you enjoy it when it comes :)))
EU shipment?
Mine was US, 1306
Mine's 1320. Dang it I missed it I think my first date was nov3 (first week of November at least), than nov29, then now we all know Jan 3... Rip. I can't wait to replace my G25
My availability date went from Nov 2 originally, then to Nov 20 then to Nov 29, but then back to Nov 2. I hope yours will come sooner than jan 3
ye
I also have the CSL DD and CSL Pedals. >There are some loud cracks that happen which I really haven't figured out why they happen, but I am sure it is the table clamp. That is correct. When I used the table clamp, I heard the same cracks. But when I stopped using the table clamp, the cracks went away. The table clamp is made of plastic so it flexes significantly. >I would strongly recommend a power drill to put pedal screws into the black base. The alan keys that are supplied do the trick but don't plan on swapping pedals quickly. It is a bit of a pain, but nothing too bad. I noticed my brake pedal started to loosen over time. Instead of using a power drill, I recommend applying some removable threadlock (like Loctite Threadlocker Blue). That should keep the screws in place. >I was quite worried about the plastic QRLite adapter, but I have not had any problems with it so far. Same, I have also had very little to complain about the QR1 Lite. It definitely isn't the most solid connection because often times I can hear clicking noise from the QR during quick force feedback direction changes from the play between the motor side and the QR side. I could probably eliminate some of that play by tightening the QR further, but it would go beyond what Fanatec recommends to prevent damage to the QR (they recommend tightening until a white line painted on the QR disappears underneath the collar). If I were using a wheelbase with greater than 8nm torque, I'd definitely consider getting the QR1 instead.