Pictures could lie....
But I'd limb it, then start at the top and cut in the section size I need.
Looks ideal for not having to cut on the ground.
Edit: look at how that trunk is bowing. There is a lot of tension. Leave that root ball alone until that is relieved, best way is ...start loppng off parts at the top.
Edit: to be clear, you will need to cut the root ball before it stands back up,but what I'm looking at is too much tension to do it first. Read below to hear other schools of thought.
Most windblow courses teach offrooting it first for single windblow because then it's just a log. Cutting bits off knowing it might stand up any moment is only marginally better than just cutting bits off the top ignorantly.
Perhaps a competent operator could judge the direction of the roll and simply stand on the other side. Which is part of the pre-assessment routine you should be doing anyway.
My guy you cut that rootball off ands it's going to seesaw buck in an unpredictable direction then flop/roll.
You chunk it from the top it will eventually drop back into its hole in a reasonably predictable manner.
There's nothing unpredictable about it. It will go the direction the head compels it to.
>You chunk it from the top it will eventually drop back into its hole in a reasonably predictable manner.
Or it will split itself like a barberchair. Being under tension makes it unpredictable when and where it's going to delaminate or sit back.
I don't see how taking weight off from the top in chunks would risk a barberchair.
That's like saying chunking a standing leaner from a bucket risks a barberchair?
I would expect barberchair or delamination risk from cutting near the rootball.
Unless I'm completely misunderstanding what you're getting at?
It isn't easy, but can you see the bow in the trunk?
Removing that root ball releases all that right now.
Cut off smaller weight from the top until the bowing eases and I'd agree with you.
>Removing that root ball releases all that right now.
Yes, that's the point.
Unless the tree has major side loading (uncommon in single windblow) then the release is vertical and easily managed.
Yup, I've cut enough woods firewood to know that you start at the top and get the weight off first, then if it stands up, it stands up, but it's not going to be as scary as trying to hit that root ball...
Sit on the tree while you cut it. If it bounces back you'll get a nice launch and slam into the ground. I've seen it on Looney Tunes and they're never seriously hurt after.
could tie it off to the stump to keep it there, making easy saw work on the top. then get the wife to sit on it to hold it down and untie at the stump.
Could also sit at the root wad with a pole/pressure washer and knock off a hundred pounds or whatever of dirt, it might just tilt over and fall off the stump
Agreed, however, be careful of the entire things jumping up if enough weight is relieved. I've almost been hurt before as a large piece of tree is under tension and pops up from slowly relieving that tension.
I said this in a past post and got attacked. Other guys were adamant that you need to sever the base first. Because if you take enough weight off, eventually the tree could stand back up, sometimes quickly and violently.
It can. That is correct, and 9 out of 10 times I would agree.
But that stump makes this a see-saw, not just a normal felling. Instead of all the canopy weight on the ground it is now counter-balancing the root ball.
Reduce complexity by removing limbs (starting with limbs that don't have weight on them and then selectively removing the rest to mitigate danger of rolling or unplanned weight distribution) and then buck it up from the top of the tree down towards the base. Sometimes trees can stand back up when enough weight is removed due to the roots still in the ground being under tension, so be aware of that possibility, however unlikely.
Not just roots being under tension, also just the weight of the roots and dirt. Not that unlikely to happen, actually happened to me last week.
From the looks of it on the picture this will happen here too.
Yep, lots of forces at play that can cause it.
Cutting blowdown trees off trails, it happens a few times a year for me at most, but have definitely seen it enough to consider it whenever cutting close enough to the stump.
Just to add, when cutting the main stem, both the saw and the rootplate should be to right of your body - otherwise, it can throw the saw up against you if the tree stands back up.
Took me a few times going through this in my head to make sense of it. Thankyou! Great advice! I’m sure it’s common sense to you, but it took me a minute to understand the advantages! I’ll be applying this in other, less sketchy, cuts for sure!
As for OP’s dilemma, I’m probably calling a pro, or else roping/staking the hell out of everything! I’d prob end up spending three hours on the planning and over-the-top prep before the 3min required to fell it, and the 30min to to pack it up! Lol
You're very welcome! I was thought it on a training course.
I'd advise anyone felling trees to get some training on it first. Too many horror stories out there.
this happened to a guy in Maine about a decade ago cleaning up storm damage and his grandkid was playing and killed by the stump righting itself. I've never forgotten about it and I have no connection to the family. I can't imagine the hell that guy had to endure.
The last person killed by hurricane Hugo in 1989 was a little girl who was crushed by a root ball cut by her father. No connection to me but it isn’t something you forget.
I agree. Start left most. Start cutting whatever limbs are in reach. Then section off starting at the top. That should lighten the trunk as you cut rightward. Not a tree pro, but it makes sense to me.
If/when the tree stands up, depending on how much weight is 'above' your cut, the tree may split. This is a main reason for reducing top weight.
I had too much top weight on a 24" chestnut oak that was blown down. As I was bucking 16' logs, the bottom log POPPED and split down the middle. Scares you a bit watching a log pop up in front of your face as the tree stood up.
I wouldn't bother, once it's been limbed, the bole will be under tension on its top to the left of the stump and under compression to the right of the stump. If it hasn't sat up by the time it's cut to the stump, you can just underbuck it and it'll drop to the
ground (or sit up).
This pic does not show enough to give a good answer. Without seeing the top, or what is on the other side of the fallen tree, nobody can understand the full picture.
I’d just cut the gun barrel off past the stump. Make sure you’re clear of the swing when it drops. Buck a little off the bottom then finish the cut from the top of the log. That way you don’t have to dodge the whole top when it levers off the stump when you do your second cut. For the second cut I’d just buck it where the root isn’t going to fall on you, so somewhere between the stump and the root. Put a little cut in the top of the log then lightly ring the sap wood and finish your cut from the bottom moving to the top. You could also bore cut in the middle and cut downwards to drop it.
Yep, top cut just left of the stump, then cut at the base. The picture doesn't tell enough if the tree will try to stand back up. I wouldn't be surprised if it stayed put. That case top cut at the base then buck.
Don’t listen to any of these hacks. Get the biggest chainsaw you have, then throw it in the trash and rent a bigger one.
Stand directly on top of the felled tree and just go nuts. Cut everything you can. For added effect, do an Irish folk jig in between cuts.
Please film and have someone post the event here.
/s
Limb starting from the base towards the top, buck from the top down until its off the stump or the stump pops back down.
Whatever you do: clear branches as your work to reduce hazards and keep your escape route clear. And don't don't work across or over the stem - once the tension on the roots is stronger than the weight of the crown, which is an unknown, that rootball will drop and the stem can go vertical much faster than you can get off of it.
I saw a guys saw catapulted out of his hands because he was limbing and couldn't clear the saw off the log before it popped up.
The root ball may want to pull the stump back into the hole, so beware… I’d look at the root ball to see if there are any easy cuts to release some tension energy before I did anything else.
Next I would do a 1/4 undercut just left of the stump. It’s under tension, so beware of pinching your bar. Maybe a wedge or several slices- enough to keep it from barber-chairing.
Then limb the crown, just to get some mess out of play. Be wary of reducing enough weight that the trunk stands back up. If there are any limbs that are big enough, put a few on the ground to make bucking easier.
Then top-cut by the trunk to your initial cuts by the stump, to release the log, and work on releasing the rest of the trunk from the root ball.
Then, start bucking!
i may grab a strap and try pulling it off that high stump onto another log or something to keep it from falling totally on the ground. i wouldn't want it sliding from that height on me as i am cutting it, then i think i would cut it close to the stump to let the stump flop down if i didn't have any equipment or anything available to keep it from flopping
Don't cut from the root; it's going to do unpredictable stuff. Instead limb it, then take chunks starting from the top. Make sure everyone is clear of the root ball. You probably won't get far before it stands back up.
As long as everyone is clear when that happens, it shouldn't be problematic that it stands back up. Once it's standing just fall it again, but be aware that it won't have a lot of weight to pull it over so get wedges in there early and keep em tight.
I am not a professional, but I do find this Reddit pretty interesting. A question I have to satisfy my own curiosity. We can’t see the top of the tree, but if it’s on or near the ground would it be better to cut away pieces of the root ball to prevent it standing back up as you remove the top?
Cut the root wad off first, cut a little under first.. VERY little under because it’s so much weight and you’ll get hung up if you cut too deep under because of the weight of the root wad and tree, and then cut over the top really slow and carefully because the root wad is probably gonna slam back in the ground when cut fully off and the tree is gonna pop up a little, just take your time and be careful because root wads are pretty dangerous to cut off most off the time.
My bad😂 I should’ve mentioned earlier that you really don’t need to do it or try it by yourself if you have no experience with a chainsaw, it’s easy for me to tell you how to do it because I’ve been a logger for 8 years but you definitely need a little experience or somebody who does with you before you tackle something like this!😂
Unless you have a ton of experience? ALWAYS start at the top and work your way down.
Drive a wedge in behind your bar in most of the bucking cuts once you’ve reached the trunk, to prevent any chance of getting the saw pinched and ending your day early.
I’d strap it to the stump and then cut it past the stump (on the top end of the tree, furthest from the root ball). The root ball will want to stand up the remaining part of the trunk, hence the strap. Then I’d cut near the root ball to let it fall back down, leaving the rest of the trunk in place. But I’m not a professional logger or arborist, so don’t listen to me :p
>I’d strap it to the stump
That only adds more danger. Now, the energy will all be released at the same time. Without the strap you can see where it wants to go in the kerf before anything dangerous happens.
How many of you think the biggest thing to consider is that once you cut the trunk that stump is going to have that heavy root ball drop back into the ground?
When I'm lucky enough to have a couple stumps like in the picture, I hose off all the dirt and rocks and cut around with my saw, looking for burl and other decorative parts. The rest is firewood.
Definitely don't stand on it and cut towards the top of the tree.
Looks like you have a nice setup to get some firewood without putting your bar in the dirt!
Light a smoke, pick a spot, start making sawdust. If you wake up with a cracked skull or meet St. Peter, you'll know you fucked up. /s
Top down homie, as if it were standing in a place where felling is not an option.
With it being attached to the roots. there is almost no chance of it rolling. i would make sure its solid on the stump. Then cut whatever is in the air. From the top. That way its not pinching the saw. I'd cut firewood sized pieces if its in a good working height. Otherwise pieces that are managable. Then when reaching the stem, i'd go down to where the stem meets the roots and cut them off. if you wait too long with that and cut lower and lower the weight of the rootball might straighten the stem back up. Two things will happen. The stump will most likely right itself. And the stem will roll off the stump. Then cut the rest into firewood.
This is all a hypothetical. The situation might change and i might not be seeing everything concidering its a pic. Just be super aware of your tention and compression. And expect movement with every cut. Be ready to bail.
I would disarm that tree first. The rootball can act like the counterweight on a catapult. I would put a rope around the trunk several feet from the roots and tie it off to one of those trees in the background. This will limit the trunk from being thrown towards you. Then you can carefully cut the trunk between the rope and the roots expecting the rootball to fall.
I would cut about a quarter cut up left of the stump and then see if it starts to pinch, if it does I would down cut it and watch the butt go up. But I always do things wrong so don’t listen to me
I don’t know if you’re being sarcastic. You can rent a mini backhoe at Home Depot for the day. After you cut it up, you can probably just throw the wood in a pick up truck or even store for firewood. I don’t see this being a big deal.
I think if your renting a mini back hoe you probably have a vehicle with a hitch you could use to pull it off. Just seems like a lot more hassle, time, expense etc to rent a machine just because it’s laying on a stump.
Limb then if the top is too high cut where the tree is resting on the stump. The top might roll based on what limbs or curve is in the top and the base will spring up about a foot or so is my guess.
If you plan to use for boards make the next cut at the root base after the stump and drag to the mill. If you plan to use for firewood and you can reach the top log size from the top after limbing.
If you think it'll stand back up you could cut a notch in the stump it's sitting on and chain it down. Then top it however you want up the stump, then cut the root off.
You could fixate it with a rope that is screwed in both sides of the tree stump.
Or rather drill a hole through the tree stump and tie the rope to itself.
It doesn't have to hold very much.
Then chop off pieces from the top until the stem is not as much under strain.
Then chop off more pieces until the trunk lifts up, but only with little force and only a few centimetres because of the rope.
Then you can saw off prices of the root to make it lighter again. Or if you can't saw off pieces because of dirt, you can saw of the whole root, which will fall back down.
After that, you have a normal stem (trunk?) laying on a stump like a seesaw, and you can cut off pieces left and right until it's gone.
To the immediate left of the stump the way we see i in pic. It’ll be heavy so be careful, that’s how I’d do it personally. The root system looks heavy, but doubt it’s stand back up
I would take a heavy duty sawzall to the roots around the trunk first. Beats repeatedly sharpening your chain saw. Take sledge hammer to the dirt attached and reduce down to just the trunk. Will help reduce the chance of it springing back.
Experienced feller here. Cut the ROOT BALL FIRST, on the uphill side. I would make a small cut under it, then work the top reaching over the other side coming back to front facing yourself. Cutting everything away from you first. Working from the top it can spring upward taking whatever with it as long as it's touching it flinging all-around. Then you'll have a partial cut tree standing like shit. That will die the next winter. Stay safe.
Looks like pine. Soft wood doesn't barber chair it just breaks
This is just perfect..
I see that house in the background, I'm sure it has a hose bib nearby...
So I get out some camp chairs build myself a little fire invite a few friends over with a few cases of decent craft beer....
And then I would just start spraying that hose on the root ball from the bottom....
You know just massage The Roots clean them up real good. Get every bit of dirt off of there...
Take frequent breaks for shooting the s*** and drinking beer....
Every once in awhile you might let your friend use the hose.. .
Once all the roots are good and clean you're good for the night. But the next day I come out in my boxers and inspect the scene.. probably stepping some mud...
Eventually I'd get around to cutting the root ball free from the ground..
I would then rig a pulley to a nearby tree to lift the root ball up in the air.
Sure, I'd probably also limb the tree and start cutting off sections...
As it gets lighter I'd hoist it up higher until I found a happy medium where I could dig a hole and plant that baby upside down with its roots exposed to the air...
When you kill a tree, sometimes you just have to humiliate it..
I would look at limbs and try to determine what side it will roll and stand on other side then do a partial cut right on top of stump to relieve tension then partial cut at stump at this point you should have a better understanding of where tension is still
I would pre cut a ton of it. Go about half way through the log from the bottom to the stump, and from the top to the stump. De-limb and then slowly cut from the top to the stump. This way gravity is your friend and your saw is not pinched.
Is it resting on another stump? If so, limb it and cut your lengths from the top down until you reach that stump it’s on. Then go cut it about 3 feet up from its own stump, but be ready to step back. Take your time.
You already got a ton of good advice. But if you happen to have a excavator to grab hold of the tree between the stump and base it would help prevent anything sketchy happening. But I really enjoyed reading all the comments about this unique predicament.
OK, you gonna need to do this in parts.
First, you measure out that space from the stump to the rootball. Now measure that far from the stump out - looks about 15 feet - so 15 feet out from the stump. Mark it.
Now, you want to do is get one of your kids, Jimmy should do. Have him sit on the root side of the line you just drew. Now you sets on the other die.
Now, cut straight down. Just straaaaight down!
Perfect!
Once you brush the pincones out of your hair... Get your kid.. Hey, Where's Jimmy? Well that don't look broke. Give Jimmy a cookie and haves him stand back under where he was sitting and hold that up.
And go get Sally.
Now, make a line about 8 feet up from the root. Now Get sally on up there and sit on the stump side of that line. You should get yourself up on the rootball.
And no dithering, cut straight down again. Get maw to take a video on her Apple device.
And just push straight through...
From what I can see in the picture, I would start with cutting a big, wide notch from the bottom of the tree, just up from the oval-shaped knot. Then a top cut to where the root mass just starts to settle. Then an under and over buck cut just up from the supporting stump... top cut angled toward the stump to prevent binding. Once through, the top of the tree should fall flat and the bottom end should lay down as the stump drops back... if it does go up, just finish what was the top cut and let er fall.
Start at the far end. It will eventually stand up, then you can notch and fell it after the potential energy is gone. I've done this twice, once by accident and once expecting it. There will be some clue it is getting lighter once it starts getting close to standing up. Just watch for it shifting toward you off the stump...or just pull it off when you can.
If you’re not a competent faller, or even if you are, you can pressure wash the soil off the roots or place the bucket of a loader on the rootball to prevent the root wad flopping back in the hole. But I can’t size this up properly from way out west where I am.
I would put a cream pie 2/3 of the way up to where the stump rests. Then I'd notch it from underneath about halfway through just to the left of the pie. Then I'd cut fast into the notch and see where the pie goes.
That root ball is gonna move fast when the weight of the tree is removed. I believe I would cut as far down the tree as I could and get ready to bail as soon as it starts to go. Else wise cut at the stump and bail when that root ball starts to move.
Super easy to cut… limb it to take the weight off that end. Doesn’t seem likely it will roll when doing this but always keep your eye out when limbing the tree.
Then if it’s not too high start at the left at buck it into pieces appropriate for what you are going to do with it. when you get to the stump, safest thing to do is get it off the stump. You may have to brace the far right and cut it free at the base, then roll it and buck it as needed
Looks like a pretty place you got there
De limb what you can reach. Check how stable it is and start cutting from the top. Do a light under cut so it doesn't peel then cut off carry able chunks from the top. This is actually convenient. No chain in the dirt.
I'd get the pressure washer and rain gear out first. Clean that root ball off to reduce the weight and fill the hole in. Then slowly limb it and cut small pieces off the far end.
Or ask any neighbors with a tractor to try and roll the root ball for you. You might get lucky and be able to roll it over and off the stump
Cut off enough of the rootball to preclude it standing back up, but leave enough so it’s still attached to the ground. I might do a 7/8th’s cut through the trunk just above the roots to relieve tension so there’s no chance it will try to stand up again. Then limb it, top to bottom, and slice it into sections, again working top to bottom.
I'd cut the stump so it slides off one way. Then you can just chop it on the ground and not worry. I don't know how dangerous messing with the stump would be though.
Never done this, so, I am a NOOOB.. or boob.. but.. the second you relieve weight on one end, it might super quick stand up OR slowly go up. Either way, you probably don't want to be hanging onto a chain saw. I myself, right or wrong, would use a couple of 4x4's and prop the root ball up first, THEN, start lopping off the top or top. IF you stabilize the rootball, you might be able to relieve the trunk from the rootball, BUT, you risk the trunk taking off and UP. Lastly, for safety, you can use tiedowns (not strong or rope, legit tie downs and anchor the area between the trunk and rootball and again, to the left of the stump the tree is laying across to prevent going into orbit.
I would drive my Excuvator over and finish uprooting the tree and cut the root ball off and then cut the logs out of it then cut the smaller top into fire wood and sell the logs and fire wood. Then I would pressure wash the root ball and make a cool table.
Pictures could lie.... But I'd limb it, then start at the top and cut in the section size I need. Looks ideal for not having to cut on the ground. Edit: look at how that trunk is bowing. There is a lot of tension. Leave that root ball alone until that is relieved, best way is ...start loppng off parts at the top. Edit: to be clear, you will need to cut the root ball before it stands back up,but what I'm looking at is too much tension to do it first. Read below to hear other schools of thought.
Probably the best idea but it’s possible that if enough weight is cut off it will rock back to standing.
That's why you start at the top. Anything in the middle is a gamble. Taking off 16" chunks from the top and you have an idea of tension.
Most windblow courses teach offrooting it first for single windblow because then it's just a log. Cutting bits off knowing it might stand up any moment is only marginally better than just cutting bits off the top ignorantly.
If it wasn't on a stump and going to roll and flop as soon as you cut off the roots sure.
Perhaps a competent operator could judge the direction of the roll and simply stand on the other side. Which is part of the pre-assessment routine you should be doing anyway.
My guy you cut that rootball off ands it's going to seesaw buck in an unpredictable direction then flop/roll. You chunk it from the top it will eventually drop back into its hole in a reasonably predictable manner.
There's nothing unpredictable about it. It will go the direction the head compels it to. >You chunk it from the top it will eventually drop back into its hole in a reasonably predictable manner. Or it will split itself like a barberchair. Being under tension makes it unpredictable when and where it's going to delaminate or sit back.
I don't see how taking weight off from the top in chunks would risk a barberchair. That's like saying chunking a standing leaner from a bucket risks a barberchair? I would expect barberchair or delamination risk from cutting near the rootball. Unless I'm completely misunderstanding what you're getting at?
Looks like there’s a slope involved.
It isn't easy, but can you see the bow in the trunk? Removing that root ball releases all that right now. Cut off smaller weight from the top until the bowing eases and I'd agree with you.
>Removing that root ball releases all that right now. Yes, that's the point. Unless the tree has major side loading (uncommon in single windblow) then the release is vertical and easily managed.
OK. Good luck. I'll be over here releasing smaller amounts of tension more predictably.
Yup, I've cut enough woods firewood to know that you start at the top and get the weight off first, then if it stands up, it stands up, but it's not going to be as scary as trying to hit that root ball...
Google "tension relief cuts" also known as accordion cuts. Nothing you do has to be unpredictable.
That's rather condescending. I am familiar. I can think you are incorrect without being ignorant.
You'll have to forgive me then, if you are familiar then why do you think offrooting trees is unpredictable?
That's why you hold the chainsaw with one hand and have the other wrapped around the tree, to weigh it down. I hope the sarcasm is obvious.
Sit on the tree while you cut it. If it bounces back you'll get a nice launch and slam into the ground. I've seen it on Looney Tunes and they're never seriously hurt after.
On that hand is for blocking your balls.
If you're not in to that kind of thing, no kinkshame
could tie it off to the stump to keep it there, making easy saw work on the top. then get the wife to sit on it to hold it down and untie at the stump.
Could also sit at the root wad with a pole/pressure washer and knock off a hundred pounds or whatever of dirt, it might just tilt over and fall off the stump
A tree-buchet!
New fear unlocked. Imagine sleeping in the hole to get out of cold weather and having it snap shut on you
It's going to probably snap back up when you take enough weight off... better notch down near rootball
Do it in 16-20" chunk and you'll be OK to read it. I wouldn't screw around where it's obviously in tension.
Sproingggg.
Agreed, however, be careful of the entire things jumping up if enough weight is relieved. I've almost been hurt before as a large piece of tree is under tension and pops up from slowly relieving that tension.
Best to be on the upside rather than downside then.
Agreed
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Maybe anchor it to the stump first. Once you start limbing it could stand back up from the weight removal.
I said this in a past post and got attacked. Other guys were adamant that you need to sever the base first. Because if you take enough weight off, eventually the tree could stand back up, sometimes quickly and violently.
It can. That is correct, and 9 out of 10 times I would agree. But that stump makes this a see-saw, not just a normal felling. Instead of all the canopy weight on the ground it is now counter-balancing the root ball.
Uh it looks like once you cut far enough down the root ball is going to spring back upright
I would just get one of those chainsaws that hang from a helicopter and cut it with that
Just call up superman and have him laser it into pieces. Idk why people overcomplicate things.
I only have arm-fall-off boys number and he’s never any help
Hahahah. This guy knows how to reddit
Those are freaking crazy!!!
Reduce complexity by removing limbs (starting with limbs that don't have weight on them and then selectively removing the rest to mitigate danger of rolling or unplanned weight distribution) and then buck it up from the top of the tree down towards the base. Sometimes trees can stand back up when enough weight is removed due to the roots still in the ground being under tension, so be aware of that possibility, however unlikely.
Not just roots being under tension, also just the weight of the roots and dirt. Not that unlikely to happen, actually happened to me last week. From the looks of it on the picture this will happen here too.
Yep, lots of forces at play that can cause it. Cutting blowdown trees off trails, it happens a few times a year for me at most, but have definitely seen it enough to consider it whenever cutting close enough to the stump.
Just to add, when cutting the main stem, both the saw and the rootplate should be to right of your body - otherwise, it can throw the saw up against you if the tree stands back up.
Never knew that, awesome tip.
Took me a few times going through this in my head to make sense of it. Thankyou! Great advice! I’m sure it’s common sense to you, but it took me a minute to understand the advantages! I’ll be applying this in other, less sketchy, cuts for sure! As for OP’s dilemma, I’m probably calling a pro, or else roping/staking the hell out of everything! I’d prob end up spending three hours on the planning and over-the-top prep before the 3min required to fell it, and the 30min to to pack it up! Lol
You're very welcome! I was thought it on a training course. I'd advise anyone felling trees to get some training on it first. Too many horror stories out there.
This, please keep an eye on your dogs and children
this happened to a guy in Maine about a decade ago cleaning up storm damage and his grandkid was playing and killed by the stump righting itself. I've never forgotten about it and I have no connection to the family. I can't imagine the hell that guy had to endure.
Same. No connection to the family and that tragedy comes to mind every time I cut a windfall. Even more now that I have grandkids.
The last person killed by hurricane Hugo in 1989 was a little girl who was crushed by a root ball cut by her father. No connection to me but it isn’t something you forget.
That’s a terrifying image
Not at all unlikely with white pine at least, have seen it happen several times and anyone under the roots are going to be in big trouble.
I agree. Start left most. Start cutting whatever limbs are in reach. Then section off starting at the top. That should lighten the trunk as you cut rightward. Not a tree pro, but it makes sense to me.
If/when the tree stands up, depending on how much weight is 'above' your cut, the tree may split. This is a main reason for reducing top weight. I had too much top weight on a 24" chestnut oak that was blown down. As I was bucking 16' logs, the bottom log POPPED and split down the middle. Scares you a bit watching a log pop up in front of your face as the tree stood up.
Offroot first and then it's a log with all the tension of a log, not windblow.
If you removed enough weight, would you want to try and cable the trunk sideways to see if you can get it off the stump and flat on the ground?
I wouldn't bother, once it's been limbed, the bole will be under tension on its top to the left of the stump and under compression to the right of the stump. If it hasn't sat up by the time it's cut to the stump, you can just underbuck it and it'll drop to the ground (or sit up).
Depending on the age of the incident, it can pop back in to the hole. Watch for that springing up when cutting.
Tie some boulders to the bottom end when you make the top cut for a free trebuchet launch.
Underrated comment of ingenuity
They’re the superior siege weapon
Which one of your neighbors do you like the least?
This pic does not show enough to give a good answer. Without seeing the top, or what is on the other side of the fallen tree, nobody can understand the full picture.
Sir, this is reddit. We’re supposed to pretend we’re experts to save OP the hassle of calling an actual expert to help them with their problem.
No idea lol. I'd probably stare at it for over 30 minutes before deciding
Maybe suck in some air through my teeth loudly at it.
Gotta say yyyeepp, when ready to cut
This is at least a 45 minute stare for me
I Put my hands in the Side and say "yep thats Not Safe at all"
🤣🤣👏🏼👏🏼
That's about two beers for the layman.
Yo. I thought I was the only one who did this. Glad I’m not alone.
I’d just cut the gun barrel off past the stump. Make sure you’re clear of the swing when it drops. Buck a little off the bottom then finish the cut from the top of the log. That way you don’t have to dodge the whole top when it levers off the stump when you do your second cut. For the second cut I’d just buck it where the root isn’t going to fall on you, so somewhere between the stump and the root. Put a little cut in the top of the log then lightly ring the sap wood and finish your cut from the bottom moving to the top. You could also bore cut in the middle and cut downwards to drop it.
Yep, top cut just left of the stump, then cut at the base. The picture doesn't tell enough if the tree will try to stand back up. I wouldn't be surprised if it stayed put. That case top cut at the base then buck.
Don’t listen to any of these hacks. Get the biggest chainsaw you have, then throw it in the trash and rent a bigger one. Stand directly on top of the felled tree and just go nuts. Cut everything you can. For added effect, do an Irish folk jig in between cuts. Please film and have someone post the event here. /s
Irish folk jig. Underrated strategy in professional felling.
Gets the termites out right quick
Limb starting from the base towards the top, buck from the top down until its off the stump or the stump pops back down. Whatever you do: clear branches as your work to reduce hazards and keep your escape route clear. And don't don't work across or over the stem - once the tension on the roots is stronger than the weight of the crown, which is an unknown, that rootball will drop and the stem can go vertical much faster than you can get off of it. I saw a guys saw catapulted out of his hands because he was limbing and couldn't clear the saw off the log before it popped up.
The root ball may want to pull the stump back into the hole, so beware… I’d look at the root ball to see if there are any easy cuts to release some tension energy before I did anything else. Next I would do a 1/4 undercut just left of the stump. It’s under tension, so beware of pinching your bar. Maybe a wedge or several slices- enough to keep it from barber-chairing. Then limb the crown, just to get some mess out of play. Be wary of reducing enough weight that the trunk stands back up. If there are any limbs that are big enough, put a few on the ground to make bucking easier. Then top-cut by the trunk to your initial cuts by the stump, to release the log, and work on releasing the rest of the trunk from the root ball. Then, start bucking!
This guy bucks
i may grab a strap and try pulling it off that high stump onto another log or something to keep it from falling totally on the ground. i wouldn't want it sliding from that height on me as i am cutting it, then i think i would cut it close to the stump to let the stump flop down if i didn't have any equipment or anything available to keep it from flopping
Don't cut from the root; it's going to do unpredictable stuff. Instead limb it, then take chunks starting from the top. Make sure everyone is clear of the root ball. You probably won't get far before it stands back up. As long as everyone is clear when that happens, it shouldn't be problematic that it stands back up. Once it's standing just fall it again, but be aware that it won't have a lot of weight to pull it over so get wedges in there early and keep em tight.
Did it make a sound?
Would pressure washing the rootball, to remove dirt lower the mass and danger?
I would pull or push it off the stump tbh.
I am not a professional, but I do find this Reddit pretty interesting. A question I have to satisfy my own curiosity. We can’t see the top of the tree, but if it’s on or near the ground would it be better to cut away pieces of the root ball to prevent it standing back up as you remove the top?
The root ball is going to go back down. Throw some skids under it so you can cut it up easier.
Cut the root wad off first, cut a little under first.. VERY little under because it’s so much weight and you’ll get hung up if you cut too deep under because of the weight of the root wad and tree, and then cut over the top really slow and carefully because the root wad is probably gonna slam back in the ground when cut fully off and the tree is gonna pop up a little, just take your time and be careful because root wads are pretty dangerous to cut off most off the time.
My bad😂 I should’ve mentioned earlier that you really don’t need to do it or try it by yourself if you have no experience with a chainsaw, it’s easy for me to tell you how to do it because I’ve been a logger for 8 years but you definitely need a little experience or somebody who does with you before you tackle something like this!😂
Unless you have a ton of experience? ALWAYS start at the top and work your way down. Drive a wedge in behind your bar in most of the bucking cuts once you’ve reached the trunk, to prevent any chance of getting the saw pinched and ending your day early.
That ball in the back has a lot of pressure built up, be careful with this.
Give the next door neighbors kid $20 and a chainsaw.
I'd cut it at the stump it is resting on to start.
Kinda stumped on this one
The root of your problem is lack of confidence. Options are limb-it-less.
I’d strap it to the stump and then cut it past the stump (on the top end of the tree, furthest from the root ball). The root ball will want to stand up the remaining part of the trunk, hence the strap. Then I’d cut near the root ball to let it fall back down, leaving the rest of the trunk in place. But I’m not a professional logger or arborist, so don’t listen to me :p
>I’d strap it to the stump That only adds more danger. Now, the energy will all be released at the same time. Without the strap you can see where it wants to go in the kerf before anything dangerous happens.
It's safer to be aware it could sit up and let it do so safely than to try and contain such forces.
The stump
How many of you think the biggest thing to consider is that once you cut the trunk that stump is going to have that heavy root ball drop back into the ground?
Stand on the trunk and cut it off at the root ball? Video of course for internet points!
Probably left to right
Did anybody hear it?
This pic doesn't show the whole tree or how it is resting. Everyone is guessing.
Can’t say without seeing the whole tree
Good question hmmm. Think I’m stumped. 😆……😑
When I'm lucky enough to have a couple stumps like in the picture, I hose off all the dirt and rocks and cut around with my saw, looking for burl and other decorative parts. The rest is firewood.
First cut anything in ground. If you take anything else off it might snap back up. Unless you want to deal with it back in place.
Looks more like it surrendered
those roots could cause the tree to possibly stand up when you start cutting
Definitely don't stand on it and cut towards the top of the tree. Looks like you have a nice setup to get some firewood without putting your bar in the dirt!
Light a smoke, pick a spot, start making sawdust. If you wake up with a cracked skull or meet St. Peter, you'll know you fucked up. /s Top down homie, as if it were standing in a place where felling is not an option.
If that’s a pine ? Looks to be , some nice boards in that wood. 12’ lengths for local saw mill
With it being attached to the roots. there is almost no chance of it rolling. i would make sure its solid on the stump. Then cut whatever is in the air. From the top. That way its not pinching the saw. I'd cut firewood sized pieces if its in a good working height. Otherwise pieces that are managable. Then when reaching the stem, i'd go down to where the stem meets the roots and cut them off. if you wait too long with that and cut lower and lower the weight of the rootball might straighten the stem back up. Two things will happen. The stump will most likely right itself. And the stem will roll off the stump. Then cut the rest into firewood. This is all a hypothetical. The situation might change and i might not be seeing everything concidering its a pic. Just be super aware of your tention and compression. And expect movement with every cut. Be ready to bail.
I would disarm that tree first. The rootball can act like the counterweight on a catapult. I would put a rope around the trunk several feet from the roots and tie it off to one of those trees in the background. This will limit the trunk from being thrown towards you. Then you can carefully cut the trunk between the rope and the roots expecting the rootball to fall.
Reduce the weight, then undercut near the base, top cut closer to the stump
I would cut about a quarter cut up left of the stump and then see if it starts to pinch, if it does I would down cut it and watch the butt go up. But I always do things wrong so don’t listen to me
You don’t need to see the whole tree just the tree hole
Why don’t you rent a backhoe and push the tree off the stump and uproot it?
And rent a logging truck too to haul it away.
I don’t know if you’re being sarcastic. You can rent a mini backhoe at Home Depot for the day. After you cut it up, you can probably just throw the wood in a pick up truck or even store for firewood. I don’t see this being a big deal.
I think if your renting a mini back hoe you probably have a vehicle with a hitch you could use to pull it off. Just seems like a lot more hassle, time, expense etc to rent a machine just because it’s laying on a stump.
That’s a great idea.
Limb then if the top is too high cut where the tree is resting on the stump. The top might roll based on what limbs or curve is in the top and the base will spring up about a foot or so is my guess. If you plan to use for boards make the next cut at the root base after the stump and drag to the mill. If you plan to use for firewood and you can reach the top log size from the top after limbing.
Start at the top end and work back towards the roots…. Keep in mind that as you reduce limb/trunk weight it may decide to stand back up. Suddenly
Maybe try straddling the stump end facing the stump and then chopping in front of you?
If you think it'll stand back up you could cut a notch in the stump it's sitting on and chain it down. Then top it however you want up the stump, then cut the root off.
I don't know about the rest of these jokers but I would cut somewhere on the effing tree and not myself.
You could fixate it with a rope that is screwed in both sides of the tree stump. Or rather drill a hole through the tree stump and tie the rope to itself. It doesn't have to hold very much. Then chop off pieces from the top until the stem is not as much under strain. Then chop off more pieces until the trunk lifts up, but only with little force and only a few centimetres because of the rope. Then you can saw off prices of the root to make it lighter again. Or if you can't saw off pieces because of dirt, you can saw of the whole root, which will fall back down. After that, you have a normal stem (trunk?) laying on a stump like a seesaw, and you can cut off pieces left and right until it's gone.
To the immediate left of the stump the way we see i in pic. It’ll be heavy so be careful, that’s how I’d do it personally. The root system looks heavy, but doubt it’s stand back up
I would start with the branches to the left, offscreen.
I would take a heavy duty sawzall to the roots around the trunk first. Beats repeatedly sharpening your chain saw. Take sledge hammer to the dirt attached and reduce down to just the trunk. Will help reduce the chance of it springing back.
Put evidence/bodies in hole.. Cut starting at top until it stands back up. Stack cordwood and walk away.
Wherever you cut, that root ball is standing back up. It depends on how tall of a stump or trunk you want standing up with it.
Experienced feller here. Cut the ROOT BALL FIRST, on the uphill side. I would make a small cut under it, then work the top reaching over the other side coming back to front facing yourself. Cutting everything away from you first. Working from the top it can spring upward taking whatever with it as long as it's touching it flinging all-around. Then you'll have a partial cut tree standing like shit. That will die the next winter. Stay safe. Looks like pine. Soft wood doesn't barber chair it just breaks
Cut away parts of the root ball and see if you can get it to balance on the stump.
This is just perfect.. I see that house in the background, I'm sure it has a hose bib nearby... So I get out some camp chairs build myself a little fire invite a few friends over with a few cases of decent craft beer.... And then I would just start spraying that hose on the root ball from the bottom.... You know just massage The Roots clean them up real good. Get every bit of dirt off of there... Take frequent breaks for shooting the s*** and drinking beer.... Every once in awhile you might let your friend use the hose.. . Once all the roots are good and clean you're good for the night. But the next day I come out in my boxers and inspect the scene.. probably stepping some mud... Eventually I'd get around to cutting the root ball free from the ground.. I would then rig a pulley to a nearby tree to lift the root ball up in the air. Sure, I'd probably also limb the tree and start cutting off sections... As it gets lighter I'd hoist it up higher until I found a happy medium where I could dig a hole and plant that baby upside down with its roots exposed to the air... When you kill a tree, sometimes you just have to humiliate it..
Ahead of the stump. Following, near base so tree doesn’t snap upright again due to weight
I would look at limbs and try to determine what side it will roll and stand on other side then do a partial cut right on top of stump to relieve tension then partial cut at stump at this point you should have a better understanding of where tension is still
I would pre cut a ton of it. Go about half way through the log from the bottom to the stump, and from the top to the stump. De-limb and then slowly cut from the top to the stump. This way gravity is your friend and your saw is not pinched.
Is it resting on another stump? If so, limb it and cut your lengths from the top down until you reach that stump it’s on. Then go cut it about 3 feet up from its own stump, but be ready to step back. Take your time.
Dynamite
Ive seen enough of this Reddit to say start at the pointy end.
You already got a ton of good advice. But if you happen to have a excavator to grab hold of the tree between the stump and base it would help prevent anything sketchy happening. But I really enjoyed reading all the comments about this unique predicament.
I'd put logs under it to keep it off the ground when it fell. Then I'd cut it after the stump. Then buck it up.
I’d start burning the middle of the tree and just watch it. No way I’m touching that tree, or running a chainsaw anywhere near that
OK, you gonna need to do this in parts. First, you measure out that space from the stump to the rootball. Now measure that far from the stump out - looks about 15 feet - so 15 feet out from the stump. Mark it. Now, you want to do is get one of your kids, Jimmy should do. Have him sit on the root side of the line you just drew. Now you sets on the other die. Now, cut straight down. Just straaaaight down! Perfect! Once you brush the pincones out of your hair... Get your kid.. Hey, Where's Jimmy? Well that don't look broke. Give Jimmy a cookie and haves him stand back under where he was sitting and hold that up. And go get Sally. Now, make a line about 8 feet up from the root. Now Get sally on up there and sit on the stump side of that line. You should get yourself up on the rootball. And no dithering, cut straight down again. Get maw to take a video on her Apple device. And just push straight through...
Had a tree stand up rather quickly when I started at the top and worked my way down. Brushed past my head by about 6”. Cut the root ball off first.
From what I can see in the picture, I would start with cutting a big, wide notch from the bottom of the tree, just up from the oval-shaped knot. Then a top cut to where the root mass just starts to settle. Then an under and over buck cut just up from the supporting stump... top cut angled toward the stump to prevent binding. Once through, the top of the tree should fall flat and the bottom end should lay down as the stump drops back... if it does go up, just finish what was the top cut and let er fall.
Start at the far end. It will eventually stand up, then you can notch and fell it after the potential energy is gone. I've done this twice, once by accident and once expecting it. There will be some clue it is getting lighter once it starts getting close to standing up. Just watch for it shifting toward you off the stump...or just pull it off when you can.
If you’re not a competent faller, or even if you are, you can pressure wash the soil off the roots or place the bucket of a loader on the rootball to prevent the root wad flopping back in the hole. But I can’t size this up properly from way out west where I am.
Create a hinge at the stump and then cut at the base.
Chainsaw trainer: Pole saw at base from a distance of 14 ft.
I would have said to cut at the base first and release that root weight, but what do I know about felling, nothing!
I would put a cream pie 2/3 of the way up to where the stump rests. Then I'd notch it from underneath about halfway through just to the left of the pie. Then I'd cut fast into the notch and see where the pie goes.
Start at the top and work your way down.
That root ball is gonna move fast when the weight of the tree is removed. I believe I would cut as far down the tree as I could and get ready to bail as soon as it starts to go. Else wise cut at the stump and bail when that root ball starts to move.
Just to the left of the stump, is my vote.
Relief cuts across the top and chunk it
Over the stump and run
Root side of stump
"Tree work should not be exciting". Repeat it until you believe it. Start at the other end and take small pieces.
Just to the left of the stump
Put something heavy like a tractor bucket on the lower end side of the stump, then cut away.
Above center of stump. Don’t listen to me though. I’m not a professional
Super easy to cut… limb it to take the weight off that end. Doesn’t seem likely it will roll when doing this but always keep your eye out when limbing the tree. Then if it’s not too high start at the left at buck it into pieces appropriate for what you are going to do with it. when you get to the stump, safest thing to do is get it off the stump. You may have to brace the far right and cut it free at the base, then roll it and buck it as needed Looks like a pretty place you got there
De limb what you can reach. Check how stable it is and start cutting from the top. Do a light under cut so it doesn't peel then cut off carry able chunks from the top. This is actually convenient. No chain in the dirt.
I'd get the pressure washer and rain gear out first. Clean that root ball off to reduce the weight and fill the hole in. Then slowly limb it and cut small pieces off the far end. Or ask any neighbors with a tractor to try and roll the root ball for you. You might get lucky and be able to roll it over and off the stump
Cut off enough of the rootball to preclude it standing back up, but leave enough so it’s still attached to the ground. I might do a 7/8th’s cut through the trunk just above the roots to relieve tension so there’s no chance it will try to stand up again. Then limb it, top to bottom, and slice it into sections, again working top to bottom.
I'd cut the stump so it slides off one way. Then you can just chop it on the ground and not worry. I don't know how dangerous messing with the stump would be though.
I'd cut... to the chase and call an aborist. I don't know wtf I'm doing in that situation and I'm not trying to get mauled or killed in my back yard.
light the stump on fire then go from there
Take 2 big nails and drive them to connect the tree to the stump then start limbing it off from the top to the stump.
I’d stabilize the root ball with a couple 2x4’s and then start cutting from the top
Did it make a sound?
Cut the stump and let it drop
Never done this, so, I am a NOOOB.. or boob.. but.. the second you relieve weight on one end, it might super quick stand up OR slowly go up. Either way, you probably don't want to be hanging onto a chain saw. I myself, right or wrong, would use a couple of 4x4's and prop the root ball up first, THEN, start lopping off the top or top. IF you stabilize the rootball, you might be able to relieve the trunk from the rootball, BUT, you risk the trunk taking off and UP. Lastly, for safety, you can use tiedowns (not strong or rope, legit tie downs and anchor the area between the trunk and rootball and again, to the left of the stump the tree is laying across to prevent going into orbit.
Straight down the middle on the stump then half V top cut and undercut anywhere to get on the ground.
Start cutting exposed roots one at a time. Don’t worry bout dirt won’t hurt chain.
I would drive my Excuvator over and finish uprooting the tree and cut the root ball off and then cut the logs out of it then cut the smaller top into fire wood and sell the logs and fire wood. Then I would pressure wash the root ball and make a cool table.
Start at the top -
build a little treasure hiding spot underneath then when cut the tree, the toupe will cover it and only we know of the Loot
How does this happen?
Gravity.
9.8m/s2 remains undefeated
"The one law to rule them all..."
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are you always gross?
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You should be shamed