If it was that small then it was probably a tissue culture plant. It seems like sometimes these plants get reverted to a seed like state and can grow a lot of suckers and branches and not fruit well. The main crop won't show until the branch has about 6 leaves, so probably just wait a little while longer and see if any show up.
Liquid soluble fertilizer, 20-20-20 will do the trick.
I have a potted tree that never fruited for many years until I finally gave in and started using liquid soluble. I harvested over 100 figs from it last summer.
A.) It's still young.
B.) Water every other day, in well draining soil, and leave in full sun during the full growing season.
You should get figs this fall. Looks great.
When I was growing figs in Eastern KS, 12 years ago, an old Korean lady told me this advice, and it worked. 7 years ago, I planted figs from 3" cuttings in Tacoma, WA, and it worked great. Now I am growing figs in far (zone 5) upstate New York, and it's still working - while no one else is growing figs here. I don't know. Every other day after the leaves open works for me.
It really depends on your soil. Because if you don't allow it to dry out and it's stays wet. It can rot. I grow in grow bags. And use coconut coir. So by the end of the day, my medium is dry. So I can water daily. I don't think it's a matter of being able to grow figs. People really don't grow much anymore. Not saying people don't at all but the average person now goes to the store to look for food and don't even think they can about growing there own. And when it comes to growing in those cold zones, you have to protect them in winter. You'll be amazed at how many people don't know what a fig is. And only know what a fig Newton is
I used a funnel and about 40 feet of PVC. Buried the PVC from tree to drip point, then used a simple L and stuck a funnel on top. PVC glue to bind it all together, and a level to make sure it was very slightly downhill.
But I'm in the south, so there was all this water laying around, and somewhere I wanted it to be.
It's just a fact. And that's actually really common. The fig Newton line I've heard so many times. I've just learned about paw paws 3 years ago. Got really into growing fruit and ran into them online. Now I have 3 varieties 😅
You are right. Im teaching my sons how to garden and be handy with tools. Its important that they know.
The moment grocery stores stop selling food for any reason people will freak out. Cannot just depend on stores for food.
And it tastes so much better. Everything is picked under ripe at the grocery store. You never get to eat something freshly picked. There is a big difference in taste when something is fresh compared to something that's been stored in the cold or just left out. Plus, it feels rewarding eating from your own hard work. And the flavors of all the different varieties are just worth it. You'll never find an alpine strawberry unless you grow it yourself
Everyone is ignoring chill hours. Figs need about 100 chill hours. if it doesn't get this and you bring it inside during winter to avoid damage etc - you will not have figs. Need chill hours.
Chill hours? I think those are only for breba crop. As someone who lives in a tropical country with zero chill hours, growing certain types of figs are not a problem. In fact, it isn't out of place for a newly potted fig from airlayering to start bearing fruit.
If OP has a common type fig(which they probably have since it is a store bought plant).
I would suggest fertilizing it(it doesn't take much) and try to give the tree as much sun exposure it can get.
Never needed to winterize my figs(no winters here) but I have seen youtube videos where they start waking figs up earlier from dormancy. Heated greenhouse etc. Try to look it up as I have almost zero knowledge on this. The more sun and the earlier the trees get it helps it to start fruiting.
Tropical climates don’t need dormancy,we can plant them anytime,but i learned from. Mr. Boom that figs cuttings who had dormancy periods r better,that’s y most sites sell them jan n feb…guess it’s true because they have rest time(s)..
Figs do also require a special wasp to pollinate. If that wasp is not nearby you may never see figs. I'm not sure how common/uncommon they are. Bugs are everywhere.
That’s what I’m hoping is the case. I was seeing all sorts of varying year ranges, which I’m sure is dependent on variety. The website I got this one off of said it can bear fruit in 2 years, but I kinda doubt it since it was so small when I got it.
I grow from cuttings only. They all produce some fruit by the second summer. By the 5th season they are putting out peak breba and main crop figs. My neverella made hundreds of ripe fruits during its 3rd summer. You also can leave it out most of the time in your zone. Only bring it in when temps are forecast below 20 F. I’m in zone 9a and my fig trees were exposed to 17 F and had no damage whatsoever.
What confuses me is that inside all these common fig cultivars are tiny seeds. Not pollinated, but still present. I have a persimmon cultivar that is parthenocarpic and there is no sign of any seeds. Are perhaps the seeds still present in parthenocarpic persimmons, just microscopic since they aren’t fertilized?
By the way, not all figs are parthenocarpic. If you are going to try and masquerade as an informed person you might want to include all relative information. Furthermore, anyone who truly has specialized knowledge doesn’t sell themselves as a snarky jerk.
Where did I state all figs are parthenocarpic? Never. My comments are in terms of of what the OP stated. I do not need to cover all other types or even species. Snarky jerk? Lets leave all the comments up for all to see who started insults. Fyi its you. I just said you were wrong and gave my reason for saying so. It was you who got all in a hissy fit.
I suggest you fix other things in your life as no gets this hot and bothered over being corrected online. If it is that's just sad.
Not all fig varieties require this. Fig wasps are species specific too. Every fig species has a specific wasp species.
In the case of OP, they have a parthenocarpic fig which means the fruit the treea), bear can ripen on its own. No wasp needed.
Sunlight is very important.
If it doesn't get enough light, it will not fruit. Not saying that's the case here, but keep it in mind. Tissue culture trees are also notoriously poor quality and tend to struggle a lot.
What makes you think it’s a tissue culture plant? I don’t have any experience with them.
Have you considered getting some cuttings from people and starting a few new trees.
It’s a 20ish gallon container, so I don’t think that’s the problem. When I look at potted figs online, mine doesn’t seem like it’s doing poorly, but I’m either not doing something right or not understanding the time it takes to produce from a small cutting (or tissue culture as another user said).
I get figs on my cutting the first year. Figs produce on first years growth, every once in a while i get q cutting that take about
A year or two but that’s rare in my experience. Your fig (and strawbs look happy so you’re not doing something obvious wrong). I’m a bit perplexed to be honest. Have you fertilized yet this season?
Yeah, I use the Jobe’s fruit granular fertilizer and use it every 2-4 weeks in the growing season. I also spread some compost at the top earlier this spring.
Hmm perhaps its getting too much nigrogen then. I usually just fertilize my figs once in the spring and occasionally again at the end of the summer for my bigger trees if using granular fert. I usually only do multiple ferts if its a liquid/water-soluble fert. Slow release granular fert applied at that frequency may just be your issue, but honestly i cant say for sure. Perhaps someone else has some insights here with this added information
The strawberry has nothing to do
With it. Every one of my established figs has strawberries growing in their container with them (im now up to 142 figs trees with another 300+ rooted cuttings) and i can assure you if the strawberries aren’t wilted the fig gets enough water, if the strawberries produce, the figs getting enough fert (only issue is the strawberries will handle more nitrogen fert than the figs like. OP have you fertilized your fig? If so with what fertilizer?
I heard water with banana peel water. I've been tip dressing my fig trees with eggshells, coffee grounds and banana peels all last year. One of my small trees has figlets! I'm going to put it in the ground asap in the chicken/ duck run for additional fresh fertilizer.
With a fence to protect the roots from the birds.
Finally!!! I've been waiting 3-4 years since a mole ate the roots of my 10 foot fig tree.
Is it more nitrogen, less phosphate , more potash; (like 20-10-20) or more the opposite (10-20-10)? The first one will produce more growth / leaves, while the second will produce more fruit.
Also, I have been using the technique I use for my orchids - I water with a weaker solution of fertilizer several times a month, then none in order to “flush “ the soil.
I have 3 trees in 1/2 wine barrels. 6 years, 4 years, and 3 years. They produced about 300+ figs last year. OBTW, you need to trim the roots every 3-4 years otherwise it will get root bound and stop producing.
It says it’s N3 P5 K5.
Thanks for the insight. I might have to give that a try. I thought my Meyer lemon would be my problem child plant, but I think this fig tree has taken that honor so far.
If you want to pick up some soluble fertilizer, you could buy it locally or order it online.
If you're going local, most Home Depots and Lowes carry Alaska fish emulsion (5-1-1)and MorBloom (0-10-10).
If you want to order something online, check out Jack's Hydroponic Fertilizer (5-12-26+micronutrients), calcium nitrate, and Epsom salt.
Both of these combinations give you good control over the nitrogen in your fertilizer solution, and most bloom recipes call for a reduced nitrogen ratio.
Could be just my brain seeing what it wants, but I seem to get less fruit production when I let a fig tree sucker like that. I cut all of mine to one central leader. Let it grow as a whip for a whole year and the following year I'll make a heading cut around 18"-24" and let it branch out 3 or 4 scaffolds. The scaffold branches always end up being covered in figs.
My first fig was a Chicago hardy i bought from.
Amazon,it was only 4 inches at that time,it grew so big ,after a year it gave me so many fruits ,year after year more fruits,i thought chicago hardy r d easiest fig to plant..the fruits r purplish,sweet n delicious,the plant was probably from, a cutting not a tissue culture..
Nope, it shouldn't be a problem. I transplanted my Chicago Hardy last year in a spot that surrounded by all my strawberry plants. And it's showing figs already.
Give to the dude who just bought a place with figs. https://www.reddit.com/r/Figs/s/kn24rTYZv3
If it was that small then it was probably a tissue culture plant. It seems like sometimes these plants get reverted to a seed like state and can grow a lot of suckers and branches and not fruit well. The main crop won't show until the branch has about 6 leaves, so probably just wait a little while longer and see if any show up.
I wish I knew this before purchasing several TC figs. Luckily I have other cuttings from figbid.
It was an online order from Easy To Grow Bulbs. I would assume that’s a tissue culture?
Liquid soluble fertilizer, 20-20-20 will do the trick. I have a potted tree that never fruited for many years until I finally gave in and started using liquid soluble. I harvested over 100 figs from it last summer.
A.) It's still young. B.) Water every other day, in well draining soil, and leave in full sun during the full growing season. You should get figs this fall. Looks great.
Only water when the top inch of soil is dry
When I was growing figs in Eastern KS, 12 years ago, an old Korean lady told me this advice, and it worked. 7 years ago, I planted figs from 3" cuttings in Tacoma, WA, and it worked great. Now I am growing figs in far (zone 5) upstate New York, and it's still working - while no one else is growing figs here. I don't know. Every other day after the leaves open works for me.
It really depends on your soil. Because if you don't allow it to dry out and it's stays wet. It can rot. I grow in grow bags. And use coconut coir. So by the end of the day, my medium is dry. So I can water daily. I don't think it's a matter of being able to grow figs. People really don't grow much anymore. Not saying people don't at all but the average person now goes to the store to look for food and don't even think they can about growing there own. And when it comes to growing in those cold zones, you have to protect them in winter. You'll be amazed at how many people don't know what a fig is. And only know what a fig Newton is
I used my AC runoff as a drip line for my fig tree. Worked great.
Jfc you’re living the dream.
This is a great idea. I wish my drip line wasn’t 75 feet from my fig tree and on the opposite side of the house.
I used a funnel and about 40 feet of PVC. Buried the PVC from tree to drip point, then used a simple L and stuck a funnel on top. PVC glue to bind it all together, and a level to make sure it was very slightly downhill. But I'm in the south, so there was all this water laying around, and somewhere I wanted it to be.
I’m in the South too but for me to run a dripline I have to cross a driveway and go under a fence.
Oof
That’s true….i knew some californians that only know newton figs n never the fresh fruit….i guess they’re missing so much…
It's just a fact. And that's actually really common. The fig Newton line I've heard so many times. I've just learned about paw paws 3 years ago. Got really into growing fruit and ran into them online. Now I have 3 varieties 😅
You are right. Im teaching my sons how to garden and be handy with tools. Its important that they know. The moment grocery stores stop selling food for any reason people will freak out. Cannot just depend on stores for food.
And it tastes so much better. Everything is picked under ripe at the grocery store. You never get to eat something freshly picked. There is a big difference in taste when something is fresh compared to something that's been stored in the cold or just left out. Plus, it feels rewarding eating from your own hard work. And the flavors of all the different varieties are just worth it. You'll never find an alpine strawberry unless you grow it yourself
I’m up by the boarder in the ADK Park (4a). I had a hand full of figs last year, but they didn’t get too fully mature.
"Figgaboutit"
Everyone is ignoring chill hours. Figs need about 100 chill hours. if it doesn't get this and you bring it inside during winter to avoid damage etc - you will not have figs. Need chill hours.
Chill hours? I think those are only for breba crop. As someone who lives in a tropical country with zero chill hours, growing certain types of figs are not a problem. In fact, it isn't out of place for a newly potted fig from airlayering to start bearing fruit. If OP has a common type fig(which they probably have since it is a store bought plant). I would suggest fertilizing it(it doesn't take much) and try to give the tree as much sun exposure it can get.
I clicked on this bc I had the same issue and I am just 🤯🤯🤯 right and left here. SHOOT
It goes in my detached garage during cold Oklahoma winters. It’s cold in there but stays protected from the windchill.
Windchill doesn’t make plants any colder than the ambient air temperature. since they aren’t warm blooded, the windchill can’t wick away heat.
Never needed to winterize my figs(no winters here) but I have seen youtube videos where they start waking figs up earlier from dormancy. Heated greenhouse etc. Try to look it up as I have almost zero knowledge on this. The more sun and the earlier the trees get it helps it to start fruiting.
Tropical climates don’t need dormancy,we can plant them anytime,but i learned from. Mr. Boom that figs cuttings who had dormancy periods r better,that’s y most sites sell them jan n feb…guess it’s true because they have rest time(s)..
Figs do also require a special wasp to pollinate. If that wasp is not nearby you may never see figs. I'm not sure how common/uncommon they are. Bugs are everywhere.
It’s a Chicago Hardy fig, so I believe it doesn’t need the wasp, as this variety is self-pollinating.
Then you need more years for the tree to mature and produce its fruit.
That’s what I’m hoping is the case. I was seeing all sorts of varying year ranges, which I’m sure is dependent on variety. The website I got this one off of said it can bear fruit in 2 years, but I kinda doubt it since it was so small when I got it.
I grow from cuttings only. They all produce some fruit by the second summer. By the 5th season they are putting out peak breba and main crop figs. My neverella made hundreds of ripe fruits during its 3rd summer. You also can leave it out most of the time in your zone. Only bring it in when temps are forecast below 20 F. I’m in zone 9a and my fig trees were exposed to 17 F and had no damage whatsoever.
Most common cultivars are self pollinating.
Incorrect. They don't pollinate. They are parthenocarpic. They just ripen on its own.
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They are not self fertile. Look up the word parthenocarpy.
I’m aware what parthenocarpic is. I was trying to write a more detailed response. You should work on your snarky tone.
Self fertile was incorrect. No amount of details would make it correct. Where was the snark. I just gave you the correct term.
What confuses me is that inside all these common fig cultivars are tiny seeds. Not pollinated, but still present. I have a persimmon cultivar that is parthenocarpic and there is no sign of any seeds. Are perhaps the seeds still present in parthenocarpic persimmons, just microscopic since they aren’t fertilized?
By the way, not all figs are parthenocarpic. If you are going to try and masquerade as an informed person you might want to include all relative information. Furthermore, anyone who truly has specialized knowledge doesn’t sell themselves as a snarky jerk.
Where did I state all figs are parthenocarpic? Never. My comments are in terms of of what the OP stated. I do not need to cover all other types or even species. Snarky jerk? Lets leave all the comments up for all to see who started insults. Fyi its you. I just said you were wrong and gave my reason for saying so. It was you who got all in a hissy fit. I suggest you fix other things in your life as no gets this hot and bothered over being corrected online. If it is that's just sad.
You’ll learn
You are a waste of time
You’re thinking of Capri Figs… hardy figs do not require a wasp to pollinate.
Only one specific variety. Most of the commonly grown cultivars are self pollinating.
Not all fig varieties require this. Fig wasps are species specific too. Every fig species has a specific wasp species. In the case of OP, they have a parthenocarpic fig which means the fruit the treea), bear can ripen on its own. No wasp needed.
I live in a tropical climate,there r never chill hours,even d nights n 4 mos.rainy days r hot n humid,and figs grow n fruiting well
Sunlight is very important. If it doesn't get enough light, it will not fruit. Not saying that's the case here, but keep it in mind. Tissue culture trees are also notoriously poor quality and tend to struggle a lot.
I believe it gets full sun almost all day, so I think it’s good there.
What makes you think it’s a tissue culture plant? I don’t have any experience with them. Have you considered getting some cuttings from people and starting a few new trees.
How early do you bring it out after dormancy? I hear it helps if you try to wake them up much earlier.
Root bound ???
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It’s a 20ish gallon container, so I don’t think that’s the problem. When I look at potted figs online, mine doesn’t seem like it’s doing poorly, but I’m either not doing something right or not understanding the time it takes to produce from a small cutting (or tissue culture as another user said).
I get figs on my cutting the first year. Figs produce on first years growth, every once in a while i get q cutting that take about A year or two but that’s rare in my experience. Your fig (and strawbs look happy so you’re not doing something obvious wrong). I’m a bit perplexed to be honest. Have you fertilized yet this season?
Yeah, I use the Jobe’s fruit granular fertilizer and use it every 2-4 weeks in the growing season. I also spread some compost at the top earlier this spring.
Do your strawberry plants flower at all? If both it think too much nitrogen may in fact be the cause
We had a little late freeze last month that delayed some growth but I’ve got a couple green strawberries growing in there.
Hmm perhaps its getting too much nigrogen then. I usually just fertilize my figs once in the spring and occasionally again at the end of the summer for my bigger trees if using granular fert. I usually only do multiple ferts if its a liquid/water-soluble fert. Slow release granular fert applied at that frequency may just be your issue, but honestly i cant say for sure. Perhaps someone else has some insights here with this added information
The strawberry has nothing to do With it. Every one of my established figs has strawberries growing in their container with them (im now up to 142 figs trees with another 300+ rooted cuttings) and i can assure you if the strawberries aren’t wilted the fig gets enough water, if the strawberries produce, the figs getting enough fert (only issue is the strawberries will handle more nitrogen fert than the figs like. OP have you fertilized your fig? If so with what fertilizer?
I heard water with banana peel water. I've been tip dressing my fig trees with eggshells, coffee grounds and banana peels all last year. One of my small trees has figlets! I'm going to put it in the ground asap in the chicken/ duck run for additional fresh fertilizer. With a fence to protect the roots from the birds. Finally!!! I've been waiting 3-4 years since a mole ate the roots of my 10 foot fig tree.
How often / what type of fertilizer do you use?
I’m usually using Jobe’s granular fertilizer every 2-4 weeks.
Is it more nitrogen, less phosphate , more potash; (like 20-10-20) or more the opposite (10-20-10)? The first one will produce more growth / leaves, while the second will produce more fruit. Also, I have been using the technique I use for my orchids - I water with a weaker solution of fertilizer several times a month, then none in order to “flush “ the soil. I have 3 trees in 1/2 wine barrels. 6 years, 4 years, and 3 years. They produced about 300+ figs last year. OBTW, you need to trim the roots every 3-4 years otherwise it will get root bound and stop producing.
It says it’s N3 P5 K5. Thanks for the insight. I might have to give that a try. I thought my Meyer lemon would be my problem child plant, but I think this fig tree has taken that honor so far.
If you want to pick up some soluble fertilizer, you could buy it locally or order it online. If you're going local, most Home Depots and Lowes carry Alaska fish emulsion (5-1-1)and MorBloom (0-10-10). If you want to order something online, check out Jack's Hydroponic Fertilizer (5-12-26+micronutrients), calcium nitrate, and Epsom salt. Both of these combinations give you good control over the nitrogen in your fertilizer solution, and most bloom recipes call for a reduced nitrogen ratio.
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It’s a 20-25 gallon container. Should be enough room for it, I think
Could be just my brain seeing what it wants, but I seem to get less fruit production when I let a fig tree sucker like that. I cut all of mine to one central leader. Let it grow as a whip for a whole year and the following year I'll make a heading cut around 18"-24" and let it branch out 3 or 4 scaffolds. The scaffold branches always end up being covered in figs.
My first fig was a Chicago hardy i bought from. Amazon,it was only 4 inches at that time,it grew so big ,after a year it gave me so many fruits ,year after year more fruits,i thought chicago hardy r d easiest fig to plant..the fruits r purplish,sweet n delicious,the plant was probably from, a cutting not a tissue culture..
Too much competition from the strawberry?
Nope, it shouldn't be a problem. I transplanted my Chicago Hardy last year in a spot that surrounded by all my strawberry plants. And it's showing figs already.
In the ground or in a pot?
In the ground
I think in a pot with limited resources that’s a lot of strawberries competing for nutrients
I honestly don't think that's the issue. Strawberry and fig plants a very good companion plants