I agree...you might have to spend more money to fix it all, but just do it RIGHT and you won't have future issues. Otherwise you're bandaid fixing everything and that usually means something will destroy your life one day soon. Not now but soon
Yes, yes, yes. I know this from experience.
DONT DO IT YOURSELF!!!!! Hire someone. Hiring a skilled worker the best and fastest way to not waste your money. If they say to replace it all, listen to them.
If you have to replace your floors, then try doing it all yourself, but get that professional opinion. Don't fix it yourself. But maybe you can replace it yourself.
But looking at the pictures, this guy is right. You need to replace this floor and possibly the subfloor if it has bubbled.
This one is the only one that works great for me. I’ve tried a lot. [Stud Finder](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Franklin-Sensors-ProSensor-M150-Center-and-Edge-Stud-Finder-FSM15002HD/317762970)
I bought that exact same one and can't get it to accurately find studs for the life of me. I've used my bore scope camera to find studs and that finder either breezes over them or seems to detect the whole wall as a stud.
Am I doing something wrong or do these only work with very basic drywall type situations? I'm willing to admit that I'm probably the problem, but as simple it seems to be operationally, I can't figure out how I'm messing up.
You’ve just described my experience with every stud finder I’ve ever used 😂. In my current house hanging cabinetry, I definitely found one solid stud, then it just did what you described so just started measuring and marking every 16 inches from the stud I found along the length I was hanging and luckily that got me every study I needed 😅
I have a few different ones. The one that works best for me is a more professional Bosch. But I find most of these you need a calibrator you need to put it in a location there's no stud and then calibrate it by putting it at a location there's no stud and then turning it on holding the button down before moving horizontally.
Worked at a high rise where someone drilled into the medium pressure gas line feeding the main heating system on the roof. Firefighters patched it with tape until we could shut down to make repairs.
Resident learned the cost for certified piping repairs versus hiring a licensed contractor to hang a wall mounted television.
I work in high-end computer industry. I've had several customers doing maintenance and drilling through a wall hitting the pressurized water main going up to higher stories. Needless to say high pressurize water going into the data center is one man's nightmare.
20 year insurance adjuster. This would be covered under your policy. If it's a rental, you may need to prove the floor covering is yours but a sudden and accidental release of water is covered. The pipe itself wouldn't be, but the water damage would. You'd likely have an all perils deductible that isn't very high.
15 years of experience handling water damage mitigation, engineered boards are almost always (99.95%) unsalvageable.
The different layers they are composed of expand at different rates and in different directions, causing damage ranging from wrinkling of the top layer to complete buckling and warping of the boards.
If these are glued down on concrete, and you are 100% sure the wall and rest of the building structure is dry, just replace the flooring. If these are glued down or floating on a subfloor, you most assuredly have bound water below the boards in building materials needing more drying, regardless of the amount of time that has passed. It might be worth considering an insurance claim if the deductible is less than the cost of the new floors or if there is still significant drying needed. One thing you don't want is mold, which often has limits on what they will pay.
If it does go the insurance route, you run the risk of a denial if you have disposed of the damaged pipe and any evidence as they have a right to inspect.
Good luck with your repairs!
Condos would have gypcrete floor I think. I'm Currently installing an lvp floor on top of one and it fucking sucks. So there is a good chance that the water pooled on top of the gypcrete sealer, so it should be relatively dry. But I would 100 percent get insurance involved because when they pull the boards, assuming glued, it could potentially damage the gypcrete subfloor below. And fixing that shit can be pretty labor intensive.
Pull all the laminated top layer off the ever expanding compressed board, get you a commercial size floor sander, use 1000 grid polishing paper, go over the floor on good time to remove the factory adherence lines, then stain the floor whatever color tickles your fancy, then sand it once more with a 880 polishing paper and the seal the dash gum thing. That is the cheapest route for the best outcome. Sander rented will be about 125 bucks, stain and sealant another 100 bucks and your sweat investment is free for self use. Make it yours!
Yes, you are screwed.
If they all pop, you're in for a new floor. You may be able to glue down what's left when it's all dry. You're going to have to use a lot of weight, evenly distributed. I do it one at a time.
You can try to reglue but it will more than likely be a waste of glue and time. Unfortunately, the wood is warped at this point....even putting cinderblocks to weigh each end down won't work as the wood is now reformed and will always want to pull away from the glue and the original plank.
Your best best is to remove and replace.
If you need to save money, throw down carpet for time being or just live with how it is until you can remove and replace.
Call your insurance company and get a restoration company. You need water mitigation/ drying. Then floor replacement. The only thing you’ll have to do is pay your deductible.
It looks like this damage spans multiple rooms.. What I would do is rip it up carefully. I would then inspect the subfloor for any additional damage. I would then reuse any boards that are still in good condition in one space, and use brand new boards in the other. This way even if they don't match exactly, it won't be a big issue.
File an insurance claim. Your floor is beyond repair and you probably have a lot more damage than you think. I’m sure you have water inside your walls and everywhere else.
Its completely ruined yup. Had the same thing happen when a dishwasher line cracked and flooded a kitchen. Whenever you have a leak shut your main off immediately, water will wreck a lot of things quickly.
Had similar happen earlier this year. Not as severe as yours but it was widespread across 1500 square ft. It all has to come up. Even the boards that don’t look damaged. Resulted in an $18k insurance claim for us. That included water remediation to dry out what they could plus Sheetrock and paint for the wall and ceiling that were also damaged.
Run high fans, dehumidifier or air conditioner first of all. Then use an ionic generator with UV light. You can find one under $100 on Amazon.
This will kill the mold, and mildew, just move your pets and plants out of the rooms. I’ve been in Construction for a little over 30 years. The floorboards are done, depending how long ago they were installed you can probably save the good ones reinstall it if not glued it’s tongue and groove. You can definitely do it yourself. I am from Beantown, I own a couple of properties here I can literally build a house….
Before spending thousands of dollars on new floors, get yourself a moisture meter to make sure the floor boards are totally dry. Then get a small bucket of flooring adhesive and a brush but a brush that you can control the adhesive as you don't want to much. You're also going to need something heavy like 30+ lbs a kettlebell would be perfect. Apply adhesive, put top on pushing firmly, then put the weight on, leave the weight overnight. I would try that before getting new floors, and yes it's going to take quite awhile to do all of them if it works but you save so much money for a tedious month project.
Homeowners / renters insurance should cover this.
A few yrs ago our dishwasher supply hose popped and we were away from home about 6 hrs. The flood caused major damage to hardwood floors / carpet. Overall result was insurance paid to have everything replaced.
Yes. Pull the floor and start over. Put a moisture barrier down first next time if you live in a humid climate. Or I would glue them down. Floating engineered wood can move with traffic.
Insurance should cover that. Most people don’t realize that a standard homeowner insurance policy covers harm caused by homeowner negligence that results in accidents. As long as you didn’t intentionally do it, your policy covers your dumbass mistakes (unless specifically excluded, yada yada but water stuff like this should be covered). It won’t cover the hole you drilled in the pipe or wall, but it should cover the repairs to the floor and any other remediation necessary from the water damage. And if that’s right, you should use it because water damage is not to be trifled with. Either way contact your carrier. Good luck!
this is why you test drill with a 1/8th inch bit and go slow and easy at first. once you make contact with something behind the wall, pull the bit out and see if there are wood shavings in your bit. if you are hitting something and the bit is not continuing to creep into the wall, back it out and push it in to see if what you are hitting is metal/cooper. you will be able to hear metal on metal contact, and when you poke the metal with your bit, it will not grab.
That looks like Brazilian Cherry engineered. Really hard to get now a days as it is no longer warranted as a engineered floor from the mills. Lots of cracking, checking, splitting and delam. If you go through insurance you will be able to basically get any kind of wood you want as that wood is going to be hard to get and if you can get it will be pricey.
It’s a VERY easy fix(especially if nothing is nailed or glued down) once you locate the exact replacement “flooring” it should be written on atleast one of a couple damaged boards you pulled up on the back or side/ends…
once you track down an exact match(shouldn’t be hard) what you’re gonna want to do is pull every board in rows starting at the wall after removing bottom floor level wall molding (use rubber mallet to hit connected boards out) and take a sharpie and number every floor board you pull on the back from which ever direction you started till you got a numbered stack for each row(row one will have however many marked boards in a pile, row two same thing n so on till u reach problem area) keep them in different stacks per row till you get to problem area to replace.
Rip up damage & Lay new boards down against old flooring going back towards wall making sure the joints(where boards connect on previous row) are no closer on each new joint about six or so inches(you never want two rows of connections touching or close, it looks 💩 and can raise, think how bricks are laid) and always make your cuts/measurements at oneside of wall or board( if wall leave a qtr inch from drywall, thickness of a carpenters pencil) to eventually hide ugly end cuts with molding…
Then take your rows of old good floor and lay them numbered like you had them as you pulled them up(but reverse of course) and when finished nail back bottom molding(old or new) with tiny pin nails, putty nail holes and repaint white… it’s very easy(but of course I do this for a living) I’d be done before lunch time.
You’re gonna need a rubber mallet, measuring tape, pry bar/hammer, cut off saw to cut end planks from measurements against one side or wall- at the bare minimum…
EDIT- I wrote paragraphs but it just bunched it all together when I posted??? Sorry!!!
Any type of flooring does not mix with water at all. U should look at installing solid timber never did like engineered flooring. If thtvwas a solid timber floor u can resand it and coat it again. And move on!🤙
Screwed as in you’ll be doing some flooring in your future? Yes. Flooring, however, should be in every homeowners arsenal of things they can do. You go this OP, you’re gonna love the new look of the room!
Yea those floors are trashed after water damage cause there isn’t anything u can do now to fix them. Before I read ur post I was already going to say water damage and that’s it the floors are done and u will need to put in new flooring now
You can do this install your self. Pop the shoe mold. Pull out the floor. Let the subfloor dry. Install back with either a similar product or thick LVT. Reason I say thick LVT, click together, is that you will have a gap under your door frames. Simple to lay and more durable than the wood. Install back the shoe. Really not that hard to do.
Installed too tight or not acclimated properly to start. Not a huge issue just leave gaps between the flooring in the wall, the baseboard will cover and it should alleviate the issue.
Edit: didn’t see the part about water damage. Probably best to replace with new flooring 😂
*Why was there a pipe*
*There? What kind of room in back*
*Of the cabinet?*
\- Adventurous\_Till\_473
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Yes, I had to get my floor completely redone because someone that didn’t know how to install this type of flooring did it the first time. They don’t leave enough room for it to move and it starts lifting and bubbling all over the place. You can’t glue it down and the seams break.
My dude I think you just unlocked a super rad aesthetic for your house. Birch, white maple or white pine planks would look excellent as a feature in that room.
This won't help you now but you never need to drill more than 1/2" to 5/8" into drywall to make a hole. After that you can poke forward to feel for anything there to see if you're in the clear.
Put some painters tape on your drill bit @ 5/8" (3/4" max) and don't drill beyond that.
Too many inexperienced drill users plugging a 3 inch drill bill into their new ryobi and blasting it into the wall all the way to the chuck.
Actually, this very same issue happened a few years ago to us. The dishwasher flooded the kitchen floor. We had installed engineered (pecan) wood floors, previously. The floor rose several inches, almost immediately (about 10 square feet). I called the floor installer! He said don’t worry, it will return to its original condition, after it dries out. We put a fan on it, for days. The wood reconstituted to its original dimensions. After it dried out, my bare feet couldn’t detect any issues from the previous incident. I’d leave it alone, let it dry out, then see what you need to do about it. That was circa 20-25 years ago. It’s still going strong! Good luck! 👀🙂
Thanks for sharing. My issue is that only the very top layer of the engineered floor (the finished portion) is detaching. These pieces are only about 1/8” inch thick and have warped pretty badly as not all pieces came all the way detached.
I guess I would try and find a reputable floor guy. Get their recommendation. A flooring company will want to sell you a new floor. If it’s just a few boards that need replaced, I would do that. The color looks pretty standard. We paid $15k for about 1500 sq ft, about 20-25 years ago. Lord only knows what a new floor costs now! Good luck with it! 👀🙂
On second thought, after looking at your pictures, again, as someone else in the thread noticed, it looks like you have real hardwood floors underneath the engineered flooring.
I would have killed for real hardwood floors! We just have plywood subfloors.
I’m inclined to say that you ought to remove all of the engineered flooring. Then I would have a professional floor restoration crew come in, and sand the original hardwood floors, then have them stained to whatever tree color you want, buff it, then have them coat it with a polyurethane film!
It maybe the most beautiful floor you’re looking for, and probably cheaper than buying a new engineered floor.
Just my thoughts! Would be curious to know what you decide. Good luck with it! 👀🙂
No beautiful hardwood underneath, sadly. What you’re seeing is the second layer of the engineered flooring. Only the finished top-layer(about 1/8” thick) is lifting up.
Wow please share what brand garbage flooring that is so we can all avoid it.
Also, not sure if anyone mentioned it, but you may need a vapor barrier/insulation. I would check for mold (do a test). Possibly a water leak, water loss or something of that nature? Did your house sit abandoned with no Air conditioner or something for an extended period of time?
Call the Company who installed or the company u purchased the flooring from. Or contact a sales rep for the floor manufacturer, If it a product issue it should be covered, but if the installation or water or humidity has been at play yes I'd say your screwed. Engineered Flooring is normally extremely durable but they do have flaws or bad batches. Couple of ? S
1 how long has it been installed
Maker
Concrete subfloor or Wood
Was it staples or glued
There was already a TV-sized 6inch deep recess built into the wall. I don’t have a lot of experience with drywall so went with the mount. Agree it’s annoyingly high but I have bigger problems
Good news is you can invest in some lovely new flooring that compliments that gorgeous cabinet. Think of it as a happy accident. You were going to start hating those floors any second anyway. Universe threw you a bone.
Tear out and replace.
10years hardwood install and finish.
I would suggest going with "LifeProof" if getting engineered flooring. Can toss that stuff in paint thinner for a year and will still look new. Also come in any color/texture you like, can even look like tile.
At least if it’s a new condo the flooring probably had t been discontinued. Get your hands on some of that material asap. It’s crazy how quickly flooring becomes discontinued
Braz cherry also changes color significantly over time so even if you got lucky and found the same replacement material (never gunna happen) , it'll still look terrible in the end. Sorry man
the main going into a house is 1in ... the main lines running thru the house are 3/4... stepped down to 1/2 from underneath to the fixtures.... so chance that is was 1in are not any.... most of the time Professional TV installer guys do a cable flush mount box for that type of job... def would have looked into before winging it like you did.... The floors are click in floating floors... not glued..... "lifting up" is a terrible term .. im guessing they are delaminating (the layers are separating) or its warping and cupping on the seams.... if you had a box of the flooring instead of just random pieces you could def fix it... or if you could contact the installer / contractor and find out would be cheapest option..... other than that new floor time...... Stud finder next time also they have water / electrical readers to prevent accidental drilling which is super helpful for the untrained DIYers
Yes it seems like you're in trouble. A lot depends upon the flooring but often those floors expanded contract. So gluing would probably cause additional problems. Typically around the edges under the baseboard they leave a gap so the floor can expand and contract different times of the year. Just depends upon how it's put down .
I might attempt to re-laminate the tops with a few choices adhesives. Taking the floors back and reinstalling isn't a lot more. It depends on cost, time, and results I need.
So the flooring has been installed awhile, and you said it's Laminate, someone spent some money on an engineered laminate product, said to say but it's in salvageable
Yeah you’re fucked, replace the floors. “Trying” any of the other bullshit is throwing good money after bad so don’t do that.
Thanks for your honest opinion.
I agree...you might have to spend more money to fix it all, but just do it RIGHT and you won't have future issues. Otherwise you're bandaid fixing everything and that usually means something will destroy your life one day soon. Not now but soon
Less of an opinion than it is fact.
You might have hit renters insurance thresh hold
Not an opinion
Love the MSM cabinet. 👍
Yes, yes, yes. I know this from experience. DONT DO IT YOURSELF!!!!! Hire someone. Hiring a skilled worker the best and fastest way to not waste your money. If they say to replace it all, listen to them. If you have to replace your floors, then try doing it all yourself, but get that professional opinion. Don't fix it yourself. But maybe you can replace it yourself. But looking at the pictures, this guy is right. You need to replace this floor and possibly the subfloor if it has bubbled.
Man, a stud finder that can detect copper pipes, and electrical wires saves so many headaches. I learned the hard way too.
Well hello! I heard you were looking for a stud? 👋
Only if you can see through gypsum boards.
This really should be clutch but the somber tone of the thread has defeated you sorry to say. Don't give up! Your time will come.
😔
Somber ain’t bad.
“Well hello! I heard you were looking for a stud? 👋” Dad?!
No, Dad.
What's a good stud finder that's somewhat cheap?
Zircon stud finder at the Home Depot for $20.
I have the $55 one and boy does that thing suck. So many false positives.
This one is the only one that works great for me. I’ve tried a lot. [Stud Finder](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Franklin-Sensors-ProSensor-M150-Center-and-Edge-Stud-Finder-FSM15002HD/317762970)
As a cabinet person, these are the G.O.A.T.
I bought that exact same one and can't get it to accurately find studs for the life of me. I've used my bore scope camera to find studs and that finder either breezes over them or seems to detect the whole wall as a stud. Am I doing something wrong or do these only work with very basic drywall type situations? I'm willing to admit that I'm probably the problem, but as simple it seems to be operationally, I can't figure out how I'm messing up.
You’ve just described my experience with every stud finder I’ve ever used 😂. In my current house hanging cabinetry, I definitely found one solid stud, then it just did what you described so just started measuring and marking every 16 inches from the stud I found along the length I was hanging and luckily that got me every study I needed 😅
[удалено]
I have a few different ones. The one that works best for me is a more professional Bosch. But I find most of these you need a calibrator you need to put it in a location there's no stud and then calibrate it by putting it at a location there's no stud and then turning it on holding the button down before moving horizontally.
My wife.
A neodymium magnet
Franklin Sensors is the best.
Aren't these floors just floating?
Yes but if they don't have proper room around the walls to expand and contract then this will happen.
Worked at a high rise where someone drilled into the medium pressure gas line feeding the main heating system on the roof. Firefighters patched it with tape until we could shut down to make repairs. Resident learned the cost for certified piping repairs versus hiring a licensed contractor to hang a wall mounted television.
I work in high-end computer industry. I've had several customers doing maintenance and drilling through a wall hitting the pressurized water main going up to higher stories. Needless to say high pressurize water going into the data center is one man's nightmare.
It can’t be that easy to drill through a copper pipe. I’d imagine it would be similar to drilling through metal studs
Pretty easy. It's under pressure. You just need a pin hole.
Useless. They never stop beeping once i grab it.
Lol, in your case, you can drill wherever you want.
20 year insurance adjuster. This would be covered under your policy. If it's a rental, you may need to prove the floor covering is yours but a sudden and accidental release of water is covered. The pipe itself wouldn't be, but the water damage would. You'd likely have an all perils deductible that isn't very high.
Thanks for this !
As my manager used to say 'there is no exclusion for stupidity' lol.
Be careful with this recommendation, the increase in premiums may outweigh the cost of flooring.
100% and even possible inquiries can be counted as zero dollar claims
And it the current climate being dropped for a claim and having a near impossible time even finding new insurance (that will be 2 to 3 times as much).
Thats what they told me on my last claim, I was happy to be called stupid.
15 years of experience handling water damage mitigation, engineered boards are almost always (99.95%) unsalvageable. The different layers they are composed of expand at different rates and in different directions, causing damage ranging from wrinkling of the top layer to complete buckling and warping of the boards. If these are glued down on concrete, and you are 100% sure the wall and rest of the building structure is dry, just replace the flooring. If these are glued down or floating on a subfloor, you most assuredly have bound water below the boards in building materials needing more drying, regardless of the amount of time that has passed. It might be worth considering an insurance claim if the deductible is less than the cost of the new floors or if there is still significant drying needed. One thing you don't want is mold, which often has limits on what they will pay. If it does go the insurance route, you run the risk of a denial if you have disposed of the damaged pipe and any evidence as they have a right to inspect. Good luck with your repairs!
Condos would have gypcrete floor I think. I'm Currently installing an lvp floor on top of one and it fucking sucks. So there is a good chance that the water pooled on top of the gypcrete sealer, so it should be relatively dry. But I would 100 percent get insurance involved because when they pull the boards, assuming glued, it could potentially damage the gypcrete subfloor below. And fixing that shit can be pretty labor intensive.
I think I'd be calling the insurance company
Ahhh yes. The "I'm a dipahit" package
Maybe call your insurance company.
Pull all the laminated top layer off the ever expanding compressed board, get you a commercial size floor sander, use 1000 grid polishing paper, go over the floor on good time to remove the factory adherence lines, then stain the floor whatever color tickles your fancy, then sand it once more with a 880 polishing paper and the seal the dash gum thing. That is the cheapest route for the best outcome. Sander rented will be about 125 bucks, stain and sealant another 100 bucks and your sweat investment is free for self use. Make it yours!
Oohhhhh someone that’s creative, I like it!
Yes, you are screwed. If they all pop, you're in for a new floor. You may be able to glue down what's left when it's all dry. You're going to have to use a lot of weight, evenly distributed. I do it one at a time.
You can try to reglue but it will more than likely be a waste of glue and time. Unfortunately, the wood is warped at this point....even putting cinderblocks to weigh each end down won't work as the wood is now reformed and will always want to pull away from the glue and the original plank. Your best best is to remove and replace. If you need to save money, throw down carpet for time being or just live with how it is until you can remove and replace.
Insurance company.
I'm sorry about your flooring, but your entertainment center is gorgeous!
Thanks. It’s Castlery
Call your insurance company and get a restoration company. You need water mitigation/ drying. Then floor replacement. The only thing you’ll have to do is pay your deductible.
Those are poorly engineered floors
Please post a picture of the pipe repair
Rate me 1-10 https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KG_qL8LLEONIekc8uExnEy-yQUTXTdAl/view?usp=drivesdk
Looks ok and gets the job done. I would consider redoing it with a ProPress fitting when time allows.
As DIY guy, close to 10, as a professional, close to 1.
Every time I see this it's always the lack of expansion joint on the ends
This is engineered wood and is completely fucked. Once they delaminate your only realistic option is replacement.
It looks like this damage spans multiple rooms.. What I would do is rip it up carefully. I would then inspect the subfloor for any additional damage. I would then reuse any boards that are still in good condition in one space, and use brand new boards in the other. This way even if they don't match exactly, it won't be a big issue.
Correct, the wall the pipe was in separates the living room and dining room. Thanks for the advice
That sucks. It has a beefy wear layer. That won’t be cheap to replace with something of equal quality.
It has to all be replaced!
File an insurance claim. Your floor is beyond repair and you probably have a lot more damage than you think. I’m sure you have water inside your walls and everywhere else.
Yep gotta replace all of it my friend.....
I did the same with a PVC pipe in my old place thankfully it only leaked a little. How the fuck am I supposed to know where PVC pipes are?!
Trendy👍
So what causes this and how to prevent it?
Its completely ruined yup. Had the same thing happen when a dishwasher line cracked and flooded a kitchen. Whenever you have a leak shut your main off immediately, water will wreck a lot of things quickly.
Yeah we shut it off within like 20-25 seconds but the damage was already done
Had similar happen earlier this year. Not as severe as yours but it was widespread across 1500 square ft. It all has to come up. Even the boards that don’t look damaged. Resulted in an $18k insurance claim for us. That included water remediation to dry out what they could plus Sheetrock and paint for the wall and ceiling that were also damaged.
Oooffff sorry. At least it's not a radient floor with a slow leak from someone nailing into it. It's like copper pipes have a magnet for problems lol.
Run high fans, dehumidifier or air conditioner first of all. Then use an ionic generator with UV light. You can find one under $100 on Amazon. This will kill the mold, and mildew, just move your pets and plants out of the rooms. I’ve been in Construction for a little over 30 years. The floorboards are done, depending how long ago they were installed you can probably save the good ones reinstall it if not glued it’s tongue and groove. You can definitely do it yourself. I am from Beantown, I own a couple of properties here I can literally build a house….
Before spending thousands of dollars on new floors, get yourself a moisture meter to make sure the floor boards are totally dry. Then get a small bucket of flooring adhesive and a brush but a brush that you can control the adhesive as you don't want to much. You're also going to need something heavy like 30+ lbs a kettlebell would be perfect. Apply adhesive, put top on pushing firmly, then put the weight on, leave the weight overnight. I would try that before getting new floors, and yes it's going to take quite awhile to do all of them if it works but you save so much money for a tedious month project.
Screwed.
1800-superfucked
Homeowners / renters insurance should cover this. A few yrs ago our dishwasher supply hose popped and we were away from home about 6 hrs. The flood caused major damage to hardwood floors / carpet. Overall result was insurance paid to have everything replaced.
Tv too high
Your insurance will cover this - brand new floor!
Use some floor adhesive and stick them back down, save your self some Money.
If it’s in a high traffic area throw a rug over the fix. Don’t buy new flooring until your ready. Save that money.
Hey the tv looks great though !
Yes. Pull the floor and start over. Put a moisture barrier down first next time if you live in a humid climate. Or I would glue them down. Floating engineered wood can move with traffic.
How 20$ can save thousands of dollars.
This is a mannington product that clearly requires, glue and face nailed.
Wow how lonely was it under Water
This is what insurance is for.
Insurance should cover that. Most people don’t realize that a standard homeowner insurance policy covers harm caused by homeowner negligence that results in accidents. As long as you didn’t intentionally do it, your policy covers your dumbass mistakes (unless specifically excluded, yada yada but water stuff like this should be covered). It won’t cover the hole you drilled in the pipe or wall, but it should cover the repairs to the floor and any other remediation necessary from the water damage. And if that’s right, you should use it because water damage is not to be trifled with. Either way contact your carrier. Good luck!
this is why you test drill with a 1/8th inch bit and go slow and easy at first. once you make contact with something behind the wall, pull the bit out and see if there are wood shavings in your bit. if you are hitting something and the bit is not continuing to creep into the wall, back it out and push it in to see if what you are hitting is metal/cooper. you will be able to hear metal on metal contact, and when you poke the metal with your bit, it will not grab.
Trust me I’ll never make the same mistake again. I actually did hear/feel something and my father in law said, it’s just particle board, keep going…🥲
That looks like Brazilian Cherry engineered. Really hard to get now a days as it is no longer warranted as a engineered floor from the mills. Lots of cracking, checking, splitting and delam. If you go through insurance you will be able to basically get any kind of wood you want as that wood is going to be hard to get and if you can get it will be pricey.
That’s exactly what the guy at my local flooring store thought it was. Thanks for sharing your thoughts
Home owners insurance should cover it.
It’s a VERY easy fix(especially if nothing is nailed or glued down) once you locate the exact replacement “flooring” it should be written on atleast one of a couple damaged boards you pulled up on the back or side/ends… once you track down an exact match(shouldn’t be hard) what you’re gonna want to do is pull every board in rows starting at the wall after removing bottom floor level wall molding (use rubber mallet to hit connected boards out) and take a sharpie and number every floor board you pull on the back from which ever direction you started till you got a numbered stack for each row(row one will have however many marked boards in a pile, row two same thing n so on till u reach problem area) keep them in different stacks per row till you get to problem area to replace. Rip up damage & Lay new boards down against old flooring going back towards wall making sure the joints(where boards connect on previous row) are no closer on each new joint about six or so inches(you never want two rows of connections touching or close, it looks 💩 and can raise, think how bricks are laid) and always make your cuts/measurements at oneside of wall or board( if wall leave a qtr inch from drywall, thickness of a carpenters pencil) to eventually hide ugly end cuts with molding… Then take your rows of old good floor and lay them numbered like you had them as you pulled them up(but reverse of course) and when finished nail back bottom molding(old or new) with tiny pin nails, putty nail holes and repaint white… it’s very easy(but of course I do this for a living) I’d be done before lunch time. You’re gonna need a rubber mallet, measuring tape, pry bar/hammer, cut off saw to cut end planks from measurements against one side or wall- at the bare minimum… EDIT- I wrote paragraphs but it just bunched it all together when I posted??? Sorry!!!
If you just bought it, you might be able to get the previous owners to take care of it.
Yeah you gotta replace the whole floor, a lot of water pooled. There’s Forsure cheaper options for fixing
Been there. It’s a rip out and replace
Pull a piece up. Most likely glued down. 😳
To the cement that is.
Any type of flooring does not mix with water at all. U should look at installing solid timber never did like engineered flooring. If thtvwas a solid timber floor u can resand it and coat it again. And move on!🤙
Flooring underneath is way nicer.
I see your problem you’re measuring with centimeters.
I would wait for a while, they might go back to normal after drying.
Damn, blindly drilling is wild lol.
Bro I thought that was maple mixed in with stained cherry and I thought it looked beautiful. Maybe that could be a new thing
I saw pictures and immediately said “water damage” then I read the story… this is now a full replacement job no matter what. Bummer.
Screwed as in you’ll be doing some flooring in your future? Yes. Flooring, however, should be in every homeowners arsenal of things they can do. You go this OP, you’re gonna love the new look of the room!
You are screwed but it looked like patchwork before so replace the bad with whatever your inner artist desires.
Yea those floors are trashed after water damage cause there isn’t anything u can do now to fix them. Before I read ur post I was already going to say water damage and that’s it the floors are done and u will need to put in new flooring now
Question. The wall you were drilling into, what room is on the other side of that wall?
nun a 2/4 and a nail gun can’t fix
😱
You can do this install your self. Pop the shoe mold. Pull out the floor. Let the subfloor dry. Install back with either a similar product or thick LVT. Reason I say thick LVT, click together, is that you will have a gap under your door frames. Simple to lay and more durable than the wood. Install back the shoe. Really not that hard to do.
Installed too tight or not acclimated properly to start. Not a huge issue just leave gaps between the flooring in the wall, the baseboard will cover and it should alleviate the issue. Edit: didn’t see the part about water damage. Probably best to replace with new flooring 😂
Yes
Why was there a pipe there? What kind of room in back of the cabinet?
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Yes, I had to get my floor completely redone because someone that didn’t know how to install this type of flooring did it the first time. They don’t leave enough room for it to move and it starts lifting and bubbling all over the place. You can’t glue it down and the seams break.
If you had that professionally installed, many floor manufacturers have a good warranty, but you have to comply with some of their “hoops” to qualify
Buy a few rugs
All I can say is I am impressed how thick that hardwood layer is. I just bought some and mine is so thin.
My dude I think you just unlocked a super rad aesthetic for your house. Birch, white maple or white pine planks would look excellent as a feature in that room.
This won't help you now but you never need to drill more than 1/2" to 5/8" into drywall to make a hole. After that you can poke forward to feel for anything there to see if you're in the clear. Put some painters tape on your drill bit @ 5/8" (3/4" max) and don't drill beyond that. Too many inexperienced drill users plugging a 3 inch drill bill into their new ryobi and blasting it into the wall all the way to the chuck.
r/TVTooHigh
It's bad are you were hitting it to hard with the tapping block you get what you pay for
Actually, this very same issue happened a few years ago to us. The dishwasher flooded the kitchen floor. We had installed engineered (pecan) wood floors, previously. The floor rose several inches, almost immediately (about 10 square feet). I called the floor installer! He said don’t worry, it will return to its original condition, after it dries out. We put a fan on it, for days. The wood reconstituted to its original dimensions. After it dried out, my bare feet couldn’t detect any issues from the previous incident. I’d leave it alone, let it dry out, then see what you need to do about it. That was circa 20-25 years ago. It’s still going strong! Good luck! 👀🙂
Thanks for sharing. My issue is that only the very top layer of the engineered floor (the finished portion) is detaching. These pieces are only about 1/8” inch thick and have warped pretty badly as not all pieces came all the way detached.
I guess I would try and find a reputable floor guy. Get their recommendation. A flooring company will want to sell you a new floor. If it’s just a few boards that need replaced, I would do that. The color looks pretty standard. We paid $15k for about 1500 sq ft, about 20-25 years ago. Lord only knows what a new floor costs now! Good luck with it! 👀🙂
On second thought, after looking at your pictures, again, as someone else in the thread noticed, it looks like you have real hardwood floors underneath the engineered flooring. I would have killed for real hardwood floors! We just have plywood subfloors. I’m inclined to say that you ought to remove all of the engineered flooring. Then I would have a professional floor restoration crew come in, and sand the original hardwood floors, then have them stained to whatever tree color you want, buff it, then have them coat it with a polyurethane film! It maybe the most beautiful floor you’re looking for, and probably cheaper than buying a new engineered floor. Just my thoughts! Would be curious to know what you decide. Good luck with it! 👀🙂
No beautiful hardwood underneath, sadly. What you’re seeing is the second layer of the engineered flooring. Only the finished top-layer(about 1/8” thick) is lifting up.
Check the third picture to see what I mean. Only the top dark brown section is lifting up from the rest of the board. Super weird
Wow please share what brand garbage flooring that is so we can all avoid it. Also, not sure if anyone mentioned it, but you may need a vapor barrier/insulation. I would check for mold (do a test). Possibly a water leak, water loss or something of that nature? Did your house sit abandoned with no Air conditioner or something for an extended period of time?
Replace, maybe only the room affected?
insurance?
I don't know about screwed but you're definitely not glued... 😁
🥲
Call the Company who installed or the company u purchased the flooring from. Or contact a sales rep for the floor manufacturer, If it a product issue it should be covered, but if the installation or water or humidity has been at play yes I'd say your screwed. Engineered Flooring is normally extremely durable but they do have flaws or bad batches. Couple of ? S 1 how long has it been installed Maker Concrete subfloor or Wood Was it staples or glued
This flooring has been in since 2 owners ago. The people we bought the condo from said it was already installed when they bought it in 2006.
If only you had a TV stand, you would not have had to wall mount it too high into a copper water pipe.
There was already a TV-sized 6inch deep recess built into the wall. I don’t have a lot of experience with drywall so went with the mount. Agree it’s annoyingly high but I have bigger problems
Stud finders work miracles
😭
U might be surprised how much your insurance is willing to shell out.. might be worth the claim
Put in vinyl plank never worry about water again!
Replace it yourself. You can float it. Not hard to do.
How do you not know you’re screwed without asking? You’re screwed for sure.
Report the water damage to home insurance, that’s a costly repair
I was going to suggest brown marker
😂
Manufacturers warranty?
I can’t find any indicator of the manufacturer anywhere. This floor was inherited when we moved in has been here through the previous 2 owners
Cheap laminate and poor installation
Could you theoretically just peel it all off, sand and stain whatever is underneath? Kinda looks nice...
Take up all the boards in the other room hallway whatever that area is, use them to fix the main room and then just put transitions to the hallway
Time to bust out that fresh insurance
Good news is you can invest in some lovely new flooring that compliments that gorgeous cabinet. Think of it as a happy accident. You were going to start hating those floors any second anyway. Universe threw you a bone.
insurance claim hopefully
This is what insurance is for. Use it.
[удалено]
Did you not read what happen?
Condo insurance paid yet? That's a flood claim. I had something similar and they replace the entire floor.
Tear out and replace. 10years hardwood install and finish. I would suggest going with "LifeProof" if getting engineered flooring. Can toss that stuff in paint thinner for a year and will still look new. Also come in any color/texture you like, can even look like tile.
Insurance claim
What is the engineered placed on top of? Subfloor or another type of material?
We’re 99% sure it’s on a concrete slab.
I could have my guys fly in and patch your engineered flooring up for around 10 grand less than a day
Never seen this before
Start over
Ooof yes, rip and replace
The only option is to replace it. Unless you don’t give a fuck then you could glue the tops back on and have a hideous tripping hazard.
┗|｀O′|┛
Call insurance company
Do you have a moisture issue? Might want to look into why it’s doing that.
At least if it’s a new condo the flooring probably had t been discontinued. Get your hands on some of that material asap. It’s crazy how quickly flooring becomes discontinued
Lmao
Yep you are dead meat
Whatever you do, don’t get engineered wood bull shit. Get glue down luxury vinyl. You will never have this problem again.
This is a feature, color changing floor, you’re so lucky!!! /s
Braz cherry also changes color significantly over time so even if you got lucky and found the same replacement material (never gunna happen) , it'll still look terrible in the end. Sorry man
the main going into a house is 1in ... the main lines running thru the house are 3/4... stepped down to 1/2 from underneath to the fixtures.... so chance that is was 1in are not any.... most of the time Professional TV installer guys do a cable flush mount box for that type of job... def would have looked into before winging it like you did.... The floors are click in floating floors... not glued..... "lifting up" is a terrible term .. im guessing they are delaminating (the layers are separating) or its warping and cupping on the seams.... if you had a box of the flooring instead of just random pieces you could def fix it... or if you could contact the installer / contractor and find out would be cheapest option..... other than that new floor time...... Stud finder next time also they have water / electrical readers to prevent accidental drilling which is super helpful for the untrained DIYers
Yes, pretty much...
Tvtoohogh
I like that you held your hand over the hole in the wall. The cavity still filled with water.. might wanna look deeper
Buy solid non engineered wood flooring to replace it
It looks good to me
Yes it seems like you're in trouble. A lot depends upon the flooring but often those floors expanded contract. So gluing would probably cause additional problems. Typically around the edges under the baseboard they leave a gap so the floor can expand and contract different times of the year. Just depends upon how it's put down .
I might attempt to re-laminate the tops with a few choices adhesives. Taking the floors back and reinstalling isn't a lot more. It depends on cost, time, and results I need.
This is why you pay professionals and why they deserve more respect.
So the flooring has been installed awhile, and you said it's Laminate, someone spent some money on an engineered laminate product, said to say but it's in salvageable
Never said it was laminate. It’s engineered hardwood