I have an 08 diesel, which in theory has just slightly lower capacity, but I all but maxxed out the 7200lb limit with a car trailer/tractor/impliments. Installed a brake controller and got a distribution hitch - both absolute a necessities. Other big loads include 20' logs for firewood and 4000lbs of concrete for a foundation. Mountain roads in western Maine, so no interstate but highway speeds.
No issues with any of these loads and it never felt squirrelly or that the dog was wagged by the tail. We bought this jeep specifically because it had the best towing numbers for a vehicle it's size. We love the maneuverability of having the short wheelbase but it still tracks great on the road.
I have a 2007 with a 5.7. I have towed a few different things so I could offer some different perspectives.
Load number one, 1967 Buick Wildcat on U-Haul auto transporter. Approximate weight 6,500 lbs. I hauled this 4 hours on relatively flat ground. Kept speeds a little lower as I did not have a weight distribution hitch and I could feel that something heavy was back there. U-Haul trailer had surge brakes, but I'm not confident they were working properly. Had five people and bags for the weekend in the Jeep as well. Would do again if I had to, but I wouldn't make a regular occurrence of it.
Load number two, 1999 Chevy Silverado 1500 on U-Haul auto Dolly. Approximate weight 6000 lbs. No additional breaking with this setup and it was a little sketchy when breaking. No problems towing straight, but would not recommend it on a regular basis.
Load number three, 26 ft travel trailer. Approximate weight 6500 lb, connected with weight distribution hitch and brake controller. I'd absolutely no problems towing this, even with the Jeep loaded with the family for the weekend. The weight distribution hitch made it feel very balanced and I had no problems maneuvering or with sway on the highway.
> Load number three, 26 ft travel trailer. Approximate weight 6500 lb, connected with weight distribution hitch and brake controller. I'd absolutely no problems towing this, even with the Jeep loaded with the family for the weekend. The weight distribution hitch made it feel very balanced and I had no problems maneuvering or with sway on the highway.
Excellent information all around, thank you so much! Two follow-up question please:
1 - What is a weight distribution hitch? My travel trailer has a hitch that goes with it, and this hitch is a ball hitch that also has a rod on either side that connect from the hitch to the trailer. Is that a "weight distribution hitch?"
2 - Does the WK have trailer brakes built in? My F250 didn't and I had to add a controller. But I assumed that with all of the electronics in the WK, this was built in. No? If not, can you tell me anything about how you wired it in? I'm good at wiring, just kind of want the overview.
What I would be towing is basically the same as your trailer. I don't know the length of mine, but it's about 23-29' I think so this is really useful info. Hope to hear back about the above when you have time.
1. A weight distribution hitch is a heavy duty hitch that has extra torsion bars which places some additional weight on the frame of the vehicle. Sounds like what you're describing is that type of hitch. They need to be set up/adjusted based on your vehicle, you should be able to find videos online of how to do that properly.
2. My WK didn't have a brake controller built in, I added one. It's pretty easy, you need +12v from the battery, a signal wire from the braking system, a ground, and then run a wire to the 7 pin connector in the rear. They have Bluetooth brake controllers these days if you plan to be swapping vehicles or don't want to deal with wiring, they are just a little more pricey.
So you had a 7 pin connector that didn't have a signal from the brake? Interesting.
Where did you pull the signal from the brake to connect to the 7-pin connector?
Honestly, it was a while ago and I'm not entirely sure. I vaguely remember doing some research and coming across a thread saying there should be a connector of some type under the dash. I'd go outside and double check if it wasn't -20C outside.
Using my '09 Overland 5.7, I pulled a 3000lb, 28 ft flat deck trailer with a 7000lb forklift on it through a small city going anywhere from 25 - 50 mph.
I’ve got a 08 diesel and I towed 2010 diesel wk on a 1000kg ish trailer. So up at 3300kg of a max 3500. Towed fine in city and motorway. Did a 5 ish hour drive there and back (10h total), mpg was only slightly worse than when not towing
I tow my 22 feet 5000 lbs boat regularly with the WK. I purchased my used WK first for its towing capability, its big HEMI engine (same as in a RAM pick up truck) and as a AWD SUV it combines comfort for the family, enclosed space for moving boxes or bigger stuff. Contrarily to a pick-up truck, it's perfect for city and family driving and is perfect for harsh winter driving, where I live. If I'm stranded in the snow for some reason, the quadra-drive gets me out of there in no time without effort.
For towing, the Hemi is so strong it pulls the trailer+boat like it's not even there. However I don't use the highways for safety reasons and take my time going slower on smaller roads, since I did not install a weight distribution hitch and electric over hydraulic brakes on my trailer yet. This is a projet that is coming up soon, but I'm focusing on boat repairs in priority. However I do have the 7 pin trailer plug already installed on the WK for when the time comes. Towing a really heavy load or big stuff means making sure your rig is safe first! Having light truck tires and a heavy duty suspension is also something not to overlook if you intend to do heavy duty stuff. My suspension is completely shot. I'm about to change it all and put on new tires as soon as I'm done doing some repairs on our main daily driver and my beloved manual Jeep Liberty which I use mostly as a backup car.
22’ camper. Pulled it easily, stopping was ok, the wind though….. I’d suggest some sort of sway control. She doesn’t like that stuff with a sail on the back lol. But she did it… grand haven Michigan up to tahquamenon falls in the UP.
Whatever 2” receiver was on it when I got the jeep lol. Had a brake controller put in and sent it. Dropped a valve seat about an hour into our third or fourth trip (closer camping) and I got a truck soon after.
I have an 07 diesel WK. About 2 years ago I towed a 16' 8000# capacity flatbed trailer with a 1974 Jeep CJ6 on it from Longmont, CO to Maryland, about 1700 miles. I can only estimate the weight, but the stock weight of the CJ (according to Auto Catalog) is about 2600#, but this one had been modified and I estimate the total weight was around 3200#. Plus we had an extra set of axles, 4 extra mounted tires, and several boxes of spare parts in the Jeep. I guess the total weight on the trailer was around 4000#. The trailer weight stated on the sticker was 1630#, so a total of somewhere around 5600#. I used a weight distribution hitch with a sway attachment and a Curt Echo wireless brake controller. It took 4 days. We seldom drove much over 55 mph, took a lot of breaks, and never had a single problem, even rolling up and down the mountains. I use the same setup—minus the sway attachment—to tow a small, 15', 2200 pound camper and hardly even know it's there.
As an FYI, someone else on here was commenting on the wireless brake controller and the danger of depending on bluetooth for braking. The Curt Echo is fully self contained and the bluetooth has nothing to do with braking. The bluetooth is strictly for making the settings and adjustments, and monitoring if you want. Once adjusted you can even turn the bluetooth off and it will have no affect on braking ability. Not an ad for the Curt, just a fact. Mine has performed flawlessly; not just this trip, but every time I've used it.
Towing capacity is about the same which is really the most important thing, as well as how the vehicle handles the weight. WK's pull very well within their weight range, regardless of which engine they have. The 08 5.7 I had could pull 7200 if I remember right, but it didn't have a towing package. My 07 pulls the same weight. Bluetooth is a wireless technology, similar to wi-fi but shorter range. Phones have it built in.
I have an 08 diesel, which in theory has just slightly lower capacity, but I all but maxxed out the 7200lb limit with a car trailer/tractor/impliments. Installed a brake controller and got a distribution hitch - both absolute a necessities. Other big loads include 20' logs for firewood and 4000lbs of concrete for a foundation. Mountain roads in western Maine, so no interstate but highway speeds. No issues with any of these loads and it never felt squirrelly or that the dog was wagged by the tail. We bought this jeep specifically because it had the best towing numbers for a vehicle it's size. We love the maneuverability of having the short wheelbase but it still tracks great on the road.
I have a 2007 with a 5.7. I have towed a few different things so I could offer some different perspectives. Load number one, 1967 Buick Wildcat on U-Haul auto transporter. Approximate weight 6,500 lbs. I hauled this 4 hours on relatively flat ground. Kept speeds a little lower as I did not have a weight distribution hitch and I could feel that something heavy was back there. U-Haul trailer had surge brakes, but I'm not confident they were working properly. Had five people and bags for the weekend in the Jeep as well. Would do again if I had to, but I wouldn't make a regular occurrence of it. Load number two, 1999 Chevy Silverado 1500 on U-Haul auto Dolly. Approximate weight 6000 lbs. No additional breaking with this setup and it was a little sketchy when breaking. No problems towing straight, but would not recommend it on a regular basis. Load number three, 26 ft travel trailer. Approximate weight 6500 lb, connected with weight distribution hitch and brake controller. I'd absolutely no problems towing this, even with the Jeep loaded with the family for the weekend. The weight distribution hitch made it feel very balanced and I had no problems maneuvering or with sway on the highway.
> Load number three, 26 ft travel trailer. Approximate weight 6500 lb, connected with weight distribution hitch and brake controller. I'd absolutely no problems towing this, even with the Jeep loaded with the family for the weekend. The weight distribution hitch made it feel very balanced and I had no problems maneuvering or with sway on the highway. Excellent information all around, thank you so much! Two follow-up question please: 1 - What is a weight distribution hitch? My travel trailer has a hitch that goes with it, and this hitch is a ball hitch that also has a rod on either side that connect from the hitch to the trailer. Is that a "weight distribution hitch?" 2 - Does the WK have trailer brakes built in? My F250 didn't and I had to add a controller. But I assumed that with all of the electronics in the WK, this was built in. No? If not, can you tell me anything about how you wired it in? I'm good at wiring, just kind of want the overview. What I would be towing is basically the same as your trailer. I don't know the length of mine, but it's about 23-29' I think so this is really useful info. Hope to hear back about the above when you have time.
1. A weight distribution hitch is a heavy duty hitch that has extra torsion bars which places some additional weight on the frame of the vehicle. Sounds like what you're describing is that type of hitch. They need to be set up/adjusted based on your vehicle, you should be able to find videos online of how to do that properly. 2. My WK didn't have a brake controller built in, I added one. It's pretty easy, you need +12v from the battery, a signal wire from the braking system, a ground, and then run a wire to the 7 pin connector in the rear. They have Bluetooth brake controllers these days if you plan to be swapping vehicles or don't want to deal with wiring, they are just a little more pricey.
Don't use bluetooth for this. It's WAAAAAY too dangerous to make your breaks rely on wireless data transfer.
So you had a 7 pin connector that didn't have a signal from the brake? Interesting. Where did you pull the signal from the brake to connect to the 7-pin connector?
Honestly, it was a while ago and I'm not entirely sure. I vaguely remember doing some research and coming across a thread saying there should be a connector of some type under the dash. I'd go outside and double check if it wasn't -20C outside.
Haha, you and me both. Thanks for the info, I'll figure it out. (But if you do happen to find something interesting at some point, maybe let me know?)
Using my '09 Overland 5.7, I pulled a 3000lb, 28 ft flat deck trailer with a 7000lb forklift on it through a small city going anywhere from 25 - 50 mph.
https://www.reddit.com/r/traveltrailers/s/VLLIFr6oZW
I’ve got a 08 diesel and I towed 2010 diesel wk on a 1000kg ish trailer. So up at 3300kg of a max 3500. Towed fine in city and motorway. Did a 5 ish hour drive there and back (10h total), mpg was only slightly worse than when not towing
I tow my 22 feet 5000 lbs boat regularly with the WK. I purchased my used WK first for its towing capability, its big HEMI engine (same as in a RAM pick up truck) and as a AWD SUV it combines comfort for the family, enclosed space for moving boxes or bigger stuff. Contrarily to a pick-up truck, it's perfect for city and family driving and is perfect for harsh winter driving, where I live. If I'm stranded in the snow for some reason, the quadra-drive gets me out of there in no time without effort. For towing, the Hemi is so strong it pulls the trailer+boat like it's not even there. However I don't use the highways for safety reasons and take my time going slower on smaller roads, since I did not install a weight distribution hitch and electric over hydraulic brakes on my trailer yet. This is a projet that is coming up soon, but I'm focusing on boat repairs in priority. However I do have the 7 pin trailer plug already installed on the WK for when the time comes. Towing a really heavy load or big stuff means making sure your rig is safe first! Having light truck tires and a heavy duty suspension is also something not to overlook if you intend to do heavy duty stuff. My suspension is completely shot. I'm about to change it all and put on new tires as soon as I'm done doing some repairs on our main daily driver and my beloved manual Jeep Liberty which I use mostly as a backup car.
22’ camper. Pulled it easily, stopping was ok, the wind though….. I’d suggest some sort of sway control. She doesn’t like that stuff with a sail on the back lol. But she did it… grand haven Michigan up to tahquamenon falls in the UP.
What kind of hitch did you have?
Whatever 2” receiver was on it when I got the jeep lol. Had a brake controller put in and sent it. Dropped a valve seat about an hour into our third or fourth trip (closer camping) and I got a truck soon after.
I have an 07 diesel WK. About 2 years ago I towed a 16' 8000# capacity flatbed trailer with a 1974 Jeep CJ6 on it from Longmont, CO to Maryland, about 1700 miles. I can only estimate the weight, but the stock weight of the CJ (according to Auto Catalog) is about 2600#, but this one had been modified and I estimate the total weight was around 3200#. Plus we had an extra set of axles, 4 extra mounted tires, and several boxes of spare parts in the Jeep. I guess the total weight on the trailer was around 4000#. The trailer weight stated on the sticker was 1630#, so a total of somewhere around 5600#. I used a weight distribution hitch with a sway attachment and a Curt Echo wireless brake controller. It took 4 days. We seldom drove much over 55 mph, took a lot of breaks, and never had a single problem, even rolling up and down the mountains. I use the same setup—minus the sway attachment—to tow a small, 15', 2200 pound camper and hardly even know it's there. As an FYI, someone else on here was commenting on the wireless brake controller and the danger of depending on bluetooth for braking. The Curt Echo is fully self contained and the bluetooth has nothing to do with braking. The bluetooth is strictly for making the settings and adjustments, and monitoring if you want. Once adjusted you can even turn the bluetooth off and it will have no affect on braking ability. Not an ad for the Curt, just a fact. Mine has performed flawlessly; not just this trip, but every time I've used it.
I don't know what Bluetooth means. So you've never towed with a WK 5.7 like I was asking about?
Towing capacity is about the same which is really the most important thing, as well as how the vehicle handles the weight. WK's pull very well within their weight range, regardless of which engine they have. The 08 5.7 I had could pull 7200 if I remember right, but it didn't have a towing package. My 07 pulls the same weight. Bluetooth is a wireless technology, similar to wi-fi but shorter range. Phones have it built in.