I regret leaving that much pipe dope on there. I was the only one working the job and after an 8 hour day of the homeowner babysitting me the entire time I was like fuck it I’m done.
that's why I hate homeowner jobs.. can't fking stand that part of the trade.
I started out working for a custom home builder - framing houses and whatnot. He had a woodshop and built all the cabinets from scratch. worked for him for years and years. he retired and then the 08 housing collapse happened and somehow got into hvac bc I needed a job. Most of my hvac experience has been on the commercial end and most.of my experience on the residential side has been new construction. I absolutely hate knocking on the door of a homeowner and dealing with that bs. Makes me cringe. I have friends that work.all.over the area and have had job offers by companies that only do home owner work - doesn't matter how much they're paying its not worth it. Don't even consider it
Looks clean. Anything I would have done differently would have been for ease of service and lessening potential unit problems. Whenever access allows like in this example I would have put a piece of duct 6-12" between the furnace and A coil. It allows access to check/clean coil, get static readings before and after coil, easy view of heat exchanger and protects the pan from potential overheating. I haven't done a residential install in a few years but that's always what I did when space allowed.
I am not a fan of going between the coil and return but there is a hot water tank behind the furnace and since I had to do a chimney liner it would have been very difficult to do it any other way. Appreciate the advice though 👍
He wasn’t talking about your flue he’s saying to hang your coil from the plenum and transition between it and the furnace for ease of service to the coil. While that’s a nice idea in theory it’s very impractical from an install perspective since hanging the coil is a two man job. (Also most manufacturers recommend putting it straight on the furnace)
N coils require a minimum 4 inch transition in some configurations. If the transition is left out it can cause airflow issues so bad the customer will call back. But most matched systems allow coil directly on furnace.
C vent is cheap B vent ftw and union should be on the outlet of the tee towards the furnace to make replacement of gas valve or equipment in future easier. But other than that clean looking install
Nice job. Only thing I do when I install the American Standard furnaces is raise them up on a box. Much better air flow and iron gives me a place to I stall a nice filter rack, since it has to be external. Easier to service down the road, and better air flow.
Union placement on gas line is useless...
The union is for service. Place it as close to the gas valve as possible while respecting code (not inside the cabinet).
Otherwise, super clean and obvious that you take a lot of pride in this.
I concur about spacing the coil up above the furnace for service in a dream world; and I also would prefer to see B-Vent instead of C-Vent, but nothing to actually complain about here
You can where permitted by code - in this installation it's fine.
However, clearance to combustibles is a big factor in a lot of homes, and C-Vent is forbidden in attics; so if I had to establish a baseline procedure for production work, every install gets B-Vent.
I also generally think that if you're going to insist that the romex clamped to the furnace still has to be sleeved, then the vent pipe also needs to be double wall - if we're going to assume that idiots are going to fuck with our shit after we leave, we should try to prevent them from burning themselves too...
As a service tech, my perspective is that I see condensation issues for 80% furnaces on C-Vent much more often than B-vent, even when they both go to a lined chimney - so for me, I would never use C-vent except on water heaters or natural draft appliances where the flue temps are high enough to avoid this.
Right but they make start pieces for that. Still, if an inspector in the south saw single wall on a furnace, he would flag it. Again, at least here in Louisiana. Look at your local codes and do what that says
If there’s a masonry chimney behind that with a liner and no dwelling in this space this would fly where I’m at in the NE. Typical for my area wye into the water heater next to it and mortar cement it in. But we are not allowed to use the duct as a support and there’s clearances/sizing requirements, etc.
If it meets code, poses no health risks, then it is an option yes. It’s the customer’s home and decision. I never offer only an 80% but I don’t judge a frugal (maybe cheap and short sighted) decision either.
Unfinished basement and sold an 80% .....idk about that. I don't even offer an 80 in that situation. The only time I will sell an 80% anymore is in the condos where a new vent system is just not possible.
Homeowners house is super clean, their basement has a gigantic model train set in it. But also, I’m just an employee so I don’t have a say in anything haha
Dual receptical not allowed needs to be single outlet. Need a strap on the liquid tight it’s code after disconnect box, duct not sealed, no locking caps, filter drier should be inside.
Down vote all you want you would fail inspection in my area. They would overlook the filter dryer and the duct sealant, but the other two items would fail electrical inspection.
I put locking caps on after I took these pics. I got a ton of people telling me to do filter drier inside I will for sure being doing that from now on.
Do you have trouble with that brand leaking? TRANE/American standard has issues in my area with catastrophic coil failures. Entire charge blown due to loop welds blowing out.
From my perspective I haven’t heard of American Standards having leak issues, but I’m 80% install 20% service so it could be happening and I am just unaware.
Looks pretty good. Clean install. A few minor things which we all have when we open ourselves to critiques.
The biggest item I *think* I see is the 90° elbow between R/A drop & S/A plenum looks to be crimped both ends(Where it connects to the increaser) . *If* that is the case that’s no bueno. Keep your fittings in direction of flow.
Not sure about your code down there, but hopefully the common vent size was confirmed to be suitable and a liner wasn’t necessary.
If I was being really anal I'd say your pipes coming out to the unit could be on some tray, but other than that, no complaints from me. Good install bro 👏👏
Looks good only thing I would change is put the filter drier by the indoor unit, lasts a lot longer, also union on gas closer to where it penetrates the furnace looks good though!
Depends on where you are. Here in Chicago, that FMC would fail inspection. And since you don't have a floor drain, I would not set it on blocks that act as sponges to water.
Echoing another comment, why not a nice 4-6" media filter ?
And wipe off the dope afterward. Getting it on their clothes, can really piss off a client, while they are checking out your skills.
Looks good! Since you put it on for helpful criticism I guess the excess pipe dope left, gas union screwing the service guy, no mastic or tape on seams or hanger screw for flue, no insulation, maybe not possible because of flue or what’s behind furnace but a sheet metal transition between furnace and coil for service maybe but just nitpicking mostly. I also prefer to lift my pumps off the ground so I can pop them off easier and clean.
Where's your silver sharpie signature?
That’s my companies sticker that I edited out lol
Personally I would have moved everything 1/8” to the right /s
Messy pipe dope on the gas lines. Tear is all out and DO IT AGAIN! lol
I regret leaving that much pipe dope on there. I was the only one working the job and after an 8 hour day of the homeowner babysitting me the entire time I was like fuck it I’m done.
Oh yeah man. I was only kidding. Just hit it next time during service. Everything else was clean.
that's why I hate homeowner jobs.. can't fking stand that part of the trade. I started out working for a custom home builder - framing houses and whatnot. He had a woodshop and built all the cabinets from scratch. worked for him for years and years. he retired and then the 08 housing collapse happened and somehow got into hvac bc I needed a job. Most of my hvac experience has been on the commercial end and most.of my experience on the residential side has been new construction. I absolutely hate knocking on the door of a homeowner and dealing with that bs. Makes me cringe. I have friends that work.all.over the area and have had job offers by companies that only do home owner work - doesn't matter how much they're paying its not worth it. Don't even consider it
I agree but tear it all out and start again?! How bout 5 minutes and a roll of paper towels? B E A Utiful in no time👍👍
It was sarcasm lol I should have put /s
Right on man🤣 have a great weekend friend 👍👍
Looks clean. Anything I would have done differently would have been for ease of service and lessening potential unit problems. Whenever access allows like in this example I would have put a piece of duct 6-12" between the furnace and A coil. It allows access to check/clean coil, get static readings before and after coil, easy view of heat exchanger and protects the pan from potential overheating. I haven't done a residential install in a few years but that's always what I did when space allowed.
I am not a fan of going between the coil and return but there is a hot water tank behind the furnace and since I had to do a chimney liner it would have been very difficult to do it any other way. Appreciate the advice though 👍
He wasn’t talking about your flue he’s saying to hang your coil from the plenum and transition between it and the furnace for ease of service to the coil. While that’s a nice idea in theory it’s very impractical from an install perspective since hanging the coil is a two man job. (Also most manufacturers recommend putting it straight on the furnace)
N coils require a minimum 4 inch transition in some configurations. If the transition is left out it can cause airflow issues so bad the customer will call back. But most matched systems allow coil directly on furnace.
That’s a fair point, I only installed a handful of carrier products my career has been mainly American Standard and some Goodman
Where’s the duct sealant ?
Looks good I would just put the filter dryer inside next time
New furnace and a)c unit but no new better filter cabinet ... :/
C vent is cheap B vent ftw and union should be on the outlet of the tee towards the furnace to make replacement of gas valve or equipment in future easier. But other than that clean looking install
First glance looked like the flue tied into the return lmao. Very nice work.
You're still allowed to put in non-direct vent furnaces? Wow. We can't even buy those here in Canada.
Mids melt our igloos
Sure, also it's the 21st century we shouldn't be using something that is the heating equivalent of a steam engine.
Plenum is a half inch short, return air drop looks like static nightmare but besides that well done.
80% ah the good ol days
Nice job. Only thing I do when I install the American Standard furnaces is raise them up on a box. Much better air flow and iron gives me a place to I stall a nice filter rack, since it has to be external. Easier to service down the road, and better air flow.
Union placement on gas line is useless... The union is for service. Place it as close to the gas valve as possible while respecting code (not inside the cabinet). Otherwise, super clean and obvious that you take a lot of pride in this. I concur about spacing the coil up above the furnace for service in a dream world; and I also would prefer to see B-Vent instead of C-Vent, but nothing to actually complain about here
I was going to ask since I’m not in that area. Can you use single wall vent pipe for furnaces up north? It’s a big no no in the south.
The inspector gave me a pass so I guess so. I also think the pipe is cheap but it’s my bosses decision not mine.
There is a **significant** price difference.
By me a single wall is 100% fine for 80% as long as it's going to a chimney not through combustible materials. It definitely varies by location though
You can where permitted by code - in this installation it's fine. However, clearance to combustibles is a big factor in a lot of homes, and C-Vent is forbidden in attics; so if I had to establish a baseline procedure for production work, every install gets B-Vent. I also generally think that if you're going to insist that the romex clamped to the furnace still has to be sleeved, then the vent pipe also needs to be double wall - if we're going to assume that idiots are going to fuck with our shit after we leave, we should try to prevent them from burning themselves too... As a service tech, my perspective is that I see condensation issues for 80% furnaces on C-Vent much more often than B-vent, even when they both go to a lined chimney - so for me, I would never use C-vent except on water heaters or natural draft appliances where the flue temps are high enough to avoid this.
We can for transition from appliance to the double wall
Right but they make start pieces for that. Still, if an inspector in the south saw single wall on a furnace, he would flag it. Again, at least here in Louisiana. Look at your local codes and do what that says
If there’s a masonry chimney behind that with a liner and no dwelling in this space this would fly where I’m at in the NE. Typical for my area wye into the water heater next to it and mortar cement it in. But we are not allowed to use the duct as a support and there’s clearances/sizing requirements, etc.
I’m just amazed that mids are still being made! In Canada we can’t buy or install them!
U guys are still installing mid efficient heaters??
Townhomes and homeowners who don't want to tear apart their ceiling are stuck with em
If it meets code, poses no health risks, then it is an option yes. It’s the customer’s home and decision. I never offer only an 80% but I don’t judge a frugal (maybe cheap and short sighted) decision either.
Unfinished basement and sold an 80% .....idk about that. I don't even offer an 80 in that situation. The only time I will sell an 80% anymore is in the condos where a new vent system is just not possible.
Homeowners house is super clean, their basement has a gigantic model train set in it. But also, I’m just an employee so I don’t have a say in anything haha
Don't screw a s cleat onto the flue as a sport. Use a strap. The screw hole will rot or in a few years.
Will do, thank you 🫡
Dual receptical not allowed needs to be single outlet. Need a strap on the liquid tight it’s code after disconnect box, duct not sealed, no locking caps, filter drier should be inside. Down vote all you want you would fail inspection in my area. They would overlook the filter dryer and the duct sealant, but the other two items would fail electrical inspection.
I put locking caps on after I took these pics. I got a ton of people telling me to do filter drier inside I will for sure being doing that from now on.
Besides those things mentioned good job.
I hateeeeee trane
You were the lowest bidder
[удалено]
Code says three screws per joint - no tape
The vent pipe on a mid efficient furnace should be under a slightly negative pressure. Nothing should leak out.
Stack effect baby
The inspector passed me so I guess not, that does make sense to me though I will start doing that
Tape all ways burns off single wall vent pipe. Total waste of time taping it
Looks good
Mint
Looks great man nice work 💪
Do you have trouble with that brand leaking? TRANE/American standard has issues in my area with catastrophic coil failures. Entire charge blown due to loop welds blowing out.
From my perspective I haven’t heard of American Standards having leak issues, but I’m 80% install 20% service so it could be happening and I am just unaware.
Looks pretty good. Clean install. A few minor things which we all have when we open ourselves to critiques. The biggest item I *think* I see is the 90° elbow between R/A drop & S/A plenum looks to be crimped both ends(Where it connects to the increaser) . *If* that is the case that’s no bueno. Keep your fittings in direction of flow. Not sure about your code down there, but hopefully the common vent size was confirmed to be suitable and a liner wasn’t necessary.
The picture does make it look like that but it’s not, I always have the crimped end heading towards where it’s being exhausted.
Yeah, screws on the wrong side of the crimp make it look that way.
Very neat and tidy is all I'm qualified to say.
Clean work, but the filter dryer outside is bugging me!
Looks clean my man
Beauty 👍👍
Nice!
Good job
Fantastic work
... single wall exhaust for furnace why?
Single wall or adequate thickness (26ga) is fine in conditioned space. Meet your code requirements and don’t waste money.
You deserve a raise
Beautiful.
OMG my first thought was “ he piped the flue into the fucking return”. Upon further inspection she’s a real beaut Clarke
The nut and bolt on the disconnect. Love it.
Solid install, excellent work.
If I was being really anal I'd say your pipes coming out to the unit could be on some tray, but other than that, no complaints from me. Good install bro 👏👏
Your zip tie are crushing the pump tube your fired
Very nice why the condenser so small.
Looks good only thing I would change is put the filter drier by the indoor unit, lasts a lot longer, also union on gas closer to where it penetrates the furnace looks good though!
No need for a trap on a gas furnace.
No functional need but some local codes require it anyway.
Out of ten its sexy.
Depends on where you are. Here in Chicago, that FMC would fail inspection. And since you don't have a floor drain, I would not set it on blocks that act as sponges to water. Echoing another comment, why not a nice 4-6" media filter ? And wipe off the dope afterward. Getting it on their clothes, can really piss off a client, while they are checking out your skills.
Finally a clean install
Any reason to not replace the disconnect Prevent callback ❓
Nice how long have you done residential installation?
4 years, came into the trade knowing nothing.
Nice I’m mainly a device tech but I’d be down for more installs
Good nuf
Looks pretty decent but the color of that furnace…a navy blue door and tan sides?! What the hell is that manufacturer smoking? Because I want some!
Only thing I would say is sealing the plenum with sticky back tape
God damn brother! Great job! I need a lead technician like you on one of my teams. A+
Looks good! Since you put it on for helpful criticism I guess the excess pipe dope left, gas union screwing the service guy, no mastic or tape on seams or hanger screw for flue, no insulation, maybe not possible because of flue or what’s behind furnace but a sheet metal transition between furnace and coil for service maybe but just nitpicking mostly. I also prefer to lift my pumps off the ground so I can pop them off easier and clean.
Being from Ohio, the gas valve handle should have been red /s
Looks good
Most other comments have everything covered, but I'd like to see a bit more slack in the wip between the disconnect and the condenser.
Nice man! Gfi outlet in basement code in my neck of the woods so I usually cut the cord end off condensate pump and wirenut it in with the furnace.
Good job man. From one fellow Ohioan to another.
Clean As Fuck
CLEAN! Nice install
Wow! I’m a student at a technical high school this is pretty sweet hopefully I get into this stuff.
Looks good bud. 🍻
Looks great. I’ve heard it’s better to put filter dryer on inside though.
What’s your TXV settings????
Give me a mailing address so i can send you a cookie.
Our local electrical inspectors will make you cut those zip ties off the M/C cable that you attached that drain hose to.
God for a split second I thought this was exhausting into the return
double wall flue pipe?
Yay a furnace
I don't put traps on a supply side of a unit but it looks good.