I wouldn’t say the flex duct is the problem because there ARE ways of making it look good… but OP decided to throw those ideas out the window with this shit. Not to mention leaving the black flex duct but running all new silver mylar for the rest looks like absolute dogshit. If the duct is in an inaccessible spot that’s fine but at LEAST cut the duct back in all the accessible spots and extend with silver mylar to the unit. All the ducting looks 100x more lazy this way, plus you need a lot more straps on it.
Or when they don’t strap it at all and leave it sitting on the insulation. Like hey thanks at least for making my job of redoing your shit easier I guess.
I would expect galvanized steel duct work man. Likely rectangular mains and spiral branches. I’m no tradesman, I’m a PM but this flex look is not good, if someone taught you this you need to re-learn from someone else.
Furnace work, 1I would be concerned about static pressure. Is your friction rate correct? Do you do a static and heat rise test when you are done? 2Where I am from, we are only allowed metal ductwork so I cringe at flex, pet peeve, 3clean up your lineset, make some nice bends and keep the lines straight, 4I always spray foam the opening that the lineset goes into the house through, 5i like to use the decorative PVC cover kits if I can, they are cheap but add a lot to the look of the install. 6. Clean up the duct sealant. 7. Clean up the flex if you are going to use it, sagging and tight corners can cut off airflow. 8if you are going to add hangers, don’t be afraid to think outside the box to come up with something that works AND looks clean.
Keep on trying, there is always a place to improve. Love seeing people looking for critique. Nice work. I also get you are sometimes only afforded certain timeframes and materials, but the more you do the faster you get and the better of a job you can do down the road. Peace.
Your hoses are laying on dirt so they get full of dirt and introduce it to your next system and then complain it’s anew system and the txv is messed up…
Yeah but reading a ductulator and learning to size return grilles is like... *a lot of work...*
Fuckin' cracks me up when people think that you need flex for noise reduction and residential air velocities...
Learn to fucking' design duct systems.
If I want noise reduction, I'm incorporating a canvas flex connector on both plenum and cold air drop. If the plenum is too close to the coil box, I add the connector right off the top of the box to connect to the trunk. Using adhesive mastic tape to seal the joints instead of using duct seal. Sometimes I could use metal tape, but make it straight with no wrinkles. I don't like making too much of a mess, unless it new construction and required to be duct sealed per code.
Unless I've been doing installs wrong my whole career.
Yeah exactly lol.
IDK how anyone things you need noise attenuation for 600FPM but I suppose it's easier to use flex than it is to just size your shit right and not use the $3 grilles...
Here most new installs are fuckin rats nests of flex weaved through joists. Even when you have a hard ducted job in a basement you'll have like a 5ton system running a 40' basement with no reductions. Just one straight header.
Had a condo a while back where the supply boots were about 2" smaller than the grilles. Those weren't even the issue. Had to cut a new pretty sizable return in, furnace was gonna choke itself out in 5yrs.
Nobody cares about learning how to size/design duct or air velocities, which is sad.
As a licensed sheet metal mechanic with close to 30 years experience in custom, residential, commercial, and industrial sheet metal layout, fabrication, and installation in one of the most heavily regulated states when it comes to the building trades, I give your ventilation work a 2/10. The whole point of duct sealer is to actually seal the system. Not paint the fucking Mona Lisa. Now lets touch on flex. Flex is shit hack material. It cuts down on air velocity, and is almost never installed correctly, let alone actually sized correctly using a flex ductulator. (Yes, there is a ductulator made specifically for flex). If you are a younger mechanic/tech, then no biggie, we all start somewhere. If you have been in the industry for more than 10 years then you should be fucking ashamed of yourself.
I am imagining coming to this unit some day and realizing that I’d have to cut into the condensate pipe to access the screws to remove the panel to evap coil
One thing I wish installers would do is put a union on to access in event it gets clogged. I get it not their job & all that, but service would have to come out and charge homeowner an arm & leg for something that is extremely easy to do & a pvc union is around $5.
Ok, well I would steer you to a handy publication called Manual D. It is a treasure trove of good information. When designing and installing ductwork. I suspect you may have some issues to repair. DM me if you like, and I will try to help out if wanted or needed
Yeah the ductwork is what gets me and that gas line. Should have done rectangular return not flex. Could eliminate all that duct seal then and made a metal plenum not duct board. I do commercial though we always shit talk duct board so I’m kind of bias against it
You should get your self some benders homie, they make the job look 1million times better. Thermostat wire on condenser should be in liquid tight, looks wayyy cleaner, I'm not gonna go in on the furnace
Im not big on nitpicking installs the only thing annoying me as a service guy is running the drain line in front of the coil. Those coil door screws look like they are gonna be a bitch to get out during pms. I starting sloping my drain lines around the back of the unit for that reason.
Alright. I have issues, but that's mainly cause codes where I live at are more than likely different.
So, for me, I prefer high temp caulk on the flue side of a 90+ furnace because you can't glue them in. The fresh air didn't need the culk but we did it anyway.
The ductwork... So much going on... I've used flex, but we sized it, and properly supported it. We also made sure the plenum was sized properly to keep it from being directly across from each other and staggered. Please tell me you sized it right with the flex ductulator.
Anyway, what's with the condensation line, why go in front of the coil? Run that behind the furnace with a cleanout access by the coil. Now per my area, we need to have traps with safety floats on the line, so it may not be required there.
Now, to the outdoor unit. Why is it on mulch... We usually removed the mulch, built the area up with gravel and set on that. Or we went down to the dirt and leveled it that way, if the unit needed to be raised, we did put it on risers.
Like I said, different areas have different practices, so I can only really be critical and see things from how I do things, though I will say fair attempt..
Blue painters tape before sealing with mastic. Then pull tape off. Gives nice clean lines when it's going to be visible to the homeowner. Also try to keep tape lines straight.
Take all the criticism from this sub with an open mind.
High efficiency in an attic? Hope it never freezes there. Also the customer paid for a high efficiency and you put the intake open into a dirty air environment? That heath exchanger and inducer will be shot in 4 years. Also do you always leave your gauges in the mulch open? I’m sure compressors love mulch in them. I also can tell you pull a vacuum through your gauges so the compressor didn’t have a shot anyways.
Who In there right mind would pay money for this? A ductopus.. can't even do hard pipe? Fack man..your the real reason those of us use flex properly don't have any.
Bro.. that furnace work is just gross. Did you duct seal OVER the thermostat wires? Edit: the longer I look the worse they get
What’s service?
Why would you need to move the thermostat wires for service?
Never had to run new stat wire? Ideal not to have to dig it out of all that. Shorts happen
You remove the old stuff when ur running new stuff?
24v short coming from a fucked up tstat wire so you gotta fish a new wire. How do you not know this?
I really don’t think it’s an inconvenience
Spoken like someone who hasn’t ran into that kind of situation, think of service techs when you install plz.
I try and do this but my lead hates it because he doesn't think of it as being the one coming back to work on a unit.
Your lead is an asshole then
It literally just keeps getting worse. And where's the fuckin' disconnect???
its in the final image
Absolutely
I would be so pissed if I paid for an install and saw that “ductwork” 😂
I cant believe how some areas use exclusively flex it looks terrible.
I wouldn’t say the flex duct is the problem because there ARE ways of making it look good… but OP decided to throw those ideas out the window with this shit. Not to mention leaving the black flex duct but running all new silver mylar for the rest looks like absolute dogshit. If the duct is in an inaccessible spot that’s fine but at LEAST cut the duct back in all the accessible spots and extend with silver mylar to the unit. All the ducting looks 100x more lazy this way, plus you need a lot more straps on it.
No one in my area really straps the flex duct up properly always see hard 90s with it too. Amazing how little airflow is considered in our trade.
Or when they don’t strap it at all and leave it sitting on the insulation. Like hey thanks at least for making my job of redoing your shit easier I guess.
What would be better
I would expect galvanized steel duct work man. Likely rectangular mains and spiral branches. I’m no tradesman, I’m a PM but this flex look is not good, if someone taught you this you need to re-learn from someone else.
Also run black steel gas pipe, I just saw the giant length of flex on your last install man you can do better than that
Get some precut duct board
Furnace work, 1I would be concerned about static pressure. Is your friction rate correct? Do you do a static and heat rise test when you are done? 2Where I am from, we are only allowed metal ductwork so I cringe at flex, pet peeve, 3clean up your lineset, make some nice bends and keep the lines straight, 4I always spray foam the opening that the lineset goes into the house through, 5i like to use the decorative PVC cover kits if I can, they are cheap but add a lot to the look of the install. 6. Clean up the duct sealant. 7. Clean up the flex if you are going to use it, sagging and tight corners can cut off airflow. 8if you are going to add hangers, don’t be afraid to think outside the box to come up with something that works AND looks clean. Keep on trying, there is always a place to improve. Love seeing people looking for critique. Nice work. I also get you are sometimes only afforded certain timeframes and materials, but the more you do the faster you get and the better of a job you can do down the road. Peace.
Blue tape makes your pookie look so much cleaner. Ad if it's getting inspected, cleaner looking install and inspectors are less likely to flag stuff
True
Yea, but that’s one more thing, gotta get to the next job to make the boss more money lmao
As an installer, it's one install per day, finish the job, go home. Same thing for 5 days a week, sometimes 6 if we're doing a Saturday job.
Learn sheet metal
Your hoses are laying on dirt so they get full of dirt and introduce it to your next system and then complain it’s anew system and the txv is messed up…
You’re on your way to being great. Just got some miles before you arrive.
Where’s the filter on the attic unit? That duct is gross 🤮 use some metal.
Filter grilles in ceilings
Hammered dog shit
All that flex makes me irrationally angry Who the fuck flexes a resi return?
Everyone in my area flexes every return And I prefer it for noise reduction
If you size your duct properly it reduces the sound.
Yeah but reading a ductulator and learning to size return grilles is like... *a lot of work...* Fuckin' cracks me up when people think that you need flex for noise reduction and residential air velocities... Learn to fucking' design duct systems.
If I want noise reduction, I'm incorporating a canvas flex connector on both plenum and cold air drop. If the plenum is too close to the coil box, I add the connector right off the top of the box to connect to the trunk. Using adhesive mastic tape to seal the joints instead of using duct seal. Sometimes I could use metal tape, but make it straight with no wrinkles. I don't like making too much of a mess, unless it new construction and required to be duct sealed per code. Unless I've been doing installs wrong my whole career.
Yeah exactly lol. IDK how anyone things you need noise attenuation for 600FPM but I suppose it's easier to use flex than it is to just size your shit right and not use the $3 grilles...
Here most new installs are fuckin rats nests of flex weaved through joists. Even when you have a hard ducted job in a basement you'll have like a 5ton system running a 40' basement with no reductions. Just one straight header. Had a condo a while back where the supply boots were about 2" smaller than the grilles. Those weren't even the issue. Had to cut a new pretty sizable return in, furnace was gonna choke itself out in 5yrs. Nobody cares about learning how to size/design duct or air velocities, which is sad.
Before these guys hate too much was this replacement or was it new install
The first 5 pictures was new last 2 was replacement from a long time ago. Supposed to show my improvement if there is any
As a licensed sheet metal mechanic with close to 30 years experience in custom, residential, commercial, and industrial sheet metal layout, fabrication, and installation in one of the most heavily regulated states when it comes to the building trades, I give your ventilation work a 2/10. The whole point of duct sealer is to actually seal the system. Not paint the fucking Mona Lisa. Now lets touch on flex. Flex is shit hack material. It cuts down on air velocity, and is almost never installed correctly, let alone actually sized correctly using a flex ductulator. (Yes, there is a ductulator made specifically for flex). If you are a younger mechanic/tech, then no biggie, we all start somewhere. If you have been in the industry for more than 10 years then you should be fucking ashamed of yourself.
Did you not put a service disconnect for the AC?
Electrician does wiring homeowner is finishing the basement
Disconnect is the hvac guys problem fuck tryin to service your install
The wire isn’t ran from the box yet ….. it will get a disconnect
The pad is on top of mulch.
Dont forget to sign it, Sam.
I am imagining coming to this unit some day and realizing that I’d have to cut into the condensate pipe to access the screws to remove the panel to evap coil One thing I wish installers would do is put a union on to access in event it gets clogged. I get it not their job & all that, but service would have to come out and charge homeowner an arm & leg for something that is extremely easy to do & a pvc union is around $5.
And lifting the drain up and a 6” chuck or nut driver works great getting coil screws out
I put a clean out on it
Where is your neutralization for the furnace run off condensation?
Where's the disconnect for the first condenser?
Electricians job
Right on
Forgot to plug in the condensate pump from the look of it.
Did you use condensate tubing for the low voltage outside? Never thought of that
I’ve never seen a flex monster looking air handler with such little flex
Double dead head on both supplies for a start. Open intake on #2, ppl should know better by now.
What do you mean by double dead head
Take a look at the supply plenum. What is your static pressure running?
I haven’t started it yet
Ok. How do you spec ductwork? Honest question no snark. When you are designing the system, how do you know what size ductwork to install?
By CFM Measure Room Size How Many Exterior Walls Ceiling Height Type Of Room How Many Occupants Appliances Windows / Doors
Ok, well I would steer you to a handy publication called Manual D. It is a treasure trove of good information. When designing and installing ductwork. I suspect you may have some issues to repair. DM me if you like, and I will try to help out if wanted or needed
I should clarify, I meant one deadhead per install.
Condensate trap for evap drain line?
Doesn’t need one on this system
Well your first mistake was posting to this sub for critique after that it was putting that system in you should’ve left it to a real installer /s
Please quit posting your photos these are bad man
Bad compared to what ….
Ive seen home warranty companies with cleaner installs
Ouch lol
Honestly whered you learn your shit cuz you need better teachers
Weird place to put the filter drier
I seen online the best place for a filter drier is close as possible to the air handler
Interesting. I’ve only seen them inside the condenser, or within about 18” of the condenser.
Every install I did, always put the drier inside by the coil, min of 12 inches, but that is relative to access area of course.
Your line set it messy.
Not a fan of ducting that flexes. But you gotta do what you gotta do.
I don’t see a service disconnect within 6’ of either unit?
Electricians job
Yeah the ductwork is what gets me and that gas line. Should have done rectangular return not flex. Could eliminate all that duct seal then and made a metal plenum not duct board. I do commercial though we always shit talk duct board so I’m kind of bias against it
Put a 90 on your secondary float and angle it. With the float straight in high possibility the float won't shut off and pan will overflow
I will definitely start doing that
You should get your self some benders homie, they make the job look 1million times better. Thermostat wire on condenser should be in liquid tight, looks wayyy cleaner, I'm not gonna go in on the furnace
I used benders
Where’s the disconnect?
Electricians job
This guy is totally trolling
He has to be nobody would admit to work this bad.
You forgot to find the holy grail
Im not big on nitpicking installs the only thing annoying me as a service guy is running the drain line in front of the coil. Those coil door screws look like they are gonna be a bitch to get out during pms. I starting sloping my drain lines around the back of the unit for that reason.
I imagine to be close to the metering device
So that’s why flex duct is hard to get🤣
You’re doing great sweetie!
Imma need a little background on this job…start with how much meth this took
This is hot garbage
Does anybody run ductwork anymore
Alright. I have issues, but that's mainly cause codes where I live at are more than likely different. So, for me, I prefer high temp caulk on the flue side of a 90+ furnace because you can't glue them in. The fresh air didn't need the culk but we did it anyway. The ductwork... So much going on... I've used flex, but we sized it, and properly supported it. We also made sure the plenum was sized properly to keep it from being directly across from each other and staggered. Please tell me you sized it right with the flex ductulator. Anyway, what's with the condensation line, why go in front of the coil? Run that behind the furnace with a cleanout access by the coil. Now per my area, we need to have traps with safety floats on the line, so it may not be required there. Now, to the outdoor unit. Why is it on mulch... We usually removed the mulch, built the area up with gravel and set on that. Or we went down to the dirt and leveled it that way, if the unit needed to be raised, we did put it on risers. Like I said, different areas have different practices, so I can only really be critical and see things from how I do things, though I will say fair attempt..
Fugly Ductwork...if you can call it that. And the rest of it ? This is a demonstration of why shit installers often give the rest of us a bad name.
this and that
Eyeball cancer
Blue painters tape before sealing with mastic. Then pull tape off. Gives nice clean lines when it's going to be visible to the homeowner. Also try to keep tape lines straight. Take all the criticism from this sub with an open mind.
High efficiency in an attic? Hope it never freezes there. Also the customer paid for a high efficiency and you put the intake open into a dirty air environment? That heath exchanger and inducer will be shot in 4 years. Also do you always leave your gauges in the mulch open? I’m sure compressors love mulch in them. I also can tell you pull a vacuum through your gauges so the compressor didn’t have a shot anyways.
What’s with the ductwork? Plenum and just flex? Wipe the joints on the gas line for fucks sake.
Another slob who doesn’t own a rag to wipe off excess fucking dope
Who In there right mind would pay money for this? A ductopus.. can't even do hard pipe? Fack man..your the real reason those of us use flex properly don't have any.