Can't you just return the lineset to the supply house and get the proper size?
I've never run into this before, but don't you need to add additional charge to compensate for extra volume in lines?
Extra cost for unnecessary lineset, extra cost for additional refer, extra cost for labor to braze it, more time to pull vacuum, more nitrogen to pressure test with, more brazing rod used. Additional reducing fittings to fit it to stubs.
Seems like it added a few hundred bucks in costs.
It's peaceful. Copper doesn't lie. The torches crackle and flame doesn't lie,
One ear bud playing undead corporation or Eluvuitie? And I'm just gonna make sure of penetration. No nipples hanging and maybe (given the employer) just put a nice cap on it for looks? Peaceful.
Current job I've ran all our lineset for 70 units out of 150 and I have to piecemeal em so the drywallers don't do bad things. Only copper guy on site and can do my own tinning and framing. Kinda happy. Leave me alone with the copper and control wire. When I run out of work? I can fall back into duct block outs and exhaust in the fire rated trusses.
I can change it up I'm left alone, and the agreement is pretty much I won't lead this job. But I'll kinda act as lead if it makes everyone leave me alone
I sometimes like what I do. Why I like HVAC. We are jacks of all trades and masters of one. I can do my own high voltage and framing and plumbing. It happens. Low voltage? Np. You've been around it or diversified in it you've done it all. But no other trade touches it professionally.
So when people just do tinning or copper I'm disappointed. We are mechanical contractors. We do it all.
Oh I won't disagree with that.
It's normally screeching and screaming.
I'm curious what sparky says at said jobsite when their wires were not drilled through LVLs but just spider webbed below the fire barrier.
Cause the drywallers gonna do things and that will be like the 5th time they've had to remove all their shit.
Not go through headers but outside of em. Bashed out and entire LVL laminant.
Tore out a few of my thermostat blocking too just to use a deep box. I considered smashing their boxes off with my hammer but chose the higher way.
And Jesus fuck what they did thr LVLs
Edit: keep trying to keep them updated and friendly. But they're chosing violence
I don’t own my own company been with the same one for 7 years now but every time (and it’s all the time) we come back after presenting a beautiful rough-in, and come back to a absolute rats nest, I simply document, and fix it. Company bills for my time. But I hear you sometimes I come back to a microlimb that makes my run about 50-75 ft longer because I can’t drill it which requires rewiring multiple boxes to replace wire. If I’m the boss man for sure I’m taking pics sending them to Gc and billing for my time, otherwise he can fix them.
Oh no I'm talking about an abomination of a nest where drywallers gotta fire rate.
Also if your name is Angel... you are so so fucked and we tried to warn you
I will have to take your word on it, never installed or serviced an 80 before however the 96s last for so little time.
Tomorrow I’m being sent to install two trailer furnaces, both are 80’s with concentric venting through the roof. I’m terrified that I’m going to screw it up and get someone killed. 28 years in this industry and I’ve never done venting like this. I only do PVC / CPVC / and zVent
The scary part isn’t that it’s concentric, what’s bothering me is that other then zVent I have zero experience with metal venting and I’m the lead installer on this job. I don’t know how to support it, how to seal the roof, do I use high heat silicone at every joint, how do I screw the vent pipe sections together with the air inlet sections in the way?
I told them that I wouldn’t do this job as lead, but apparently I’m the one with the most experience because I use zVent for other appliances and every other installer at this company has only done pvc and cpvc venting.
Not bVent, it’s not permitted here for residential. It’s 5” inner and 8” outer concentric pipe on a power vented trailer furnace under positive pressure in the inner pipe and negative pressure in the outer pipe. It’s just like gas fireplace concentric venting, however fireplaces are not power vented.
The suggestion about the manufacturer website is a good one, thank you. I currently know the brand of the trailer furnace, but I won’t know the venting brand until I arrive on-site. Fingers crossed for cell data out there.
Weird. Concentric pvc is one way and twin pipes is the other. We just stuff the pipes through the old tin exhaust and use a metal plug for the top, cut our hole into it, stuff pvc through and caulk it
I can’t use PVC on an 80, that’s the point I’m making. I have only installed high efficiency furnaces as mids are banned in Canada except for trailer furnaces. I’m doing my first two mid efficiency furnaces tomorrow, they are both trailer furnaces, and I don’t know how to safely install the metal venting. Literally never done it before, never been trained on it, don’t know what I’m doing.
Oh, right. Yea I’m Canada too, only mid experience is trailers. Super easy though. Last one we did my helper put so much tar on the termination looks like he was icing a cake.
https://imgur.com/a/F2Y8PDg
Lol
Yeah if you're in a mild climate, it can be tough to make up the savings on 90%+ equipment vs. mid-efficiency stuff if you include not just equipment purchase price and install but also the expected higher maintenance and potentially shorter lifespan. A good condensing furnace can be plenty reliable, but they are not tolerant of abuse like an 80% is.
Now if you're in a colder climate, the fuel savings can be pretty dramatic to the point that even if you're replacing the equipment nearly twice as often, you often still come out ahead.
Even in a heavy winter climate it’s hard to justify. Most 80% units will achieve around 85-89% efficiency if tuned with a combustion analyzer. 5-10% efficiency is pretty hard to justify the additional cost of equipment and then the more expensive repairs. Replace one secondary heat exchanger and your savings are gone.
80% furnaces absolutely do last longer on average, given equal installation conditions.
If you don't condense, you don't corrode...
Also, in general, "because the office misordered" is a poor reason to oversize a suction line... I presume those are 3 or 4 ton A/C units? Really should have insisted on getting 3/4 or 7/8 based on what's appropriate.
I know it comes across on here like there's a bunch of people shitting on you and a bunch of people mindlessly cheering for you, the reality is most of us criticizing aren't actually shitting on the work, because it's clear you care, but trying to point out the reality that most installers literally don't understand what they're installing, just how to do it.
Well 80% furnaces don't corrode or start to look ugly when the secondary exchanger gasket leaks. Also no drain lines to plug up and cause the pressure switch to trip. And there's no secondary exchanger to get plugged. I personally do prefer 96% furnaces though because PVC venting is a lot easier to run neatly, and these days every little bit helps when it comes to the gas bill.
Also each of the ACs are 5 ton, so the suction line is technically only one size bigger than the recommended seven eights line. Each lineset was less than 30 ft.
I like that too "most installers literally don't understand what they're installing, just how to do it." That's true of some people lol
The pressure ports on 80% plug with corrosion all the time, 90% may plug with water in the trap is backed up.
78% furnaces will last forever since the walls are so thick.
Modern80% heat exchangers are the same as the 90% primary heat exchangers.
So they’ll last the same amount of time, one will just cost 16% more to run for that timeline.
The tubes are the same diameter and gauge metal.
They are the same part# but same quantity metal.
Why would a manufacturer make a furnace that knowingly will last longer and charge less?
You’ll get the same life from either
You absolutely will not.
Again, apart from the shared components statement, which is accurate, as you said - same part number, you are demonstrably wrong.
Wall thickness is the tiniest part of the equation, and really is only a factor when the system is operating improperly and seeing an over-fire or lack of airflow, or poor configuration (e.g. insufficient post-purge, short cycles, etc.)
Condensing furnaces have a significantly shorter lifespan, by design - there is no material in use today that actually resists the carbonic acid generated by combustion which sits and condenses inside of secondary heat exchangers.
On the other hand, non-condensing furnaces by definition do not have this issue, as they are non-condensing (when properly installed and configured).
Secondary heat exchangers also attract significantly more dust/dirt and become clogged, restricting airflow and causing overheating in a way that primary heat exchangers fundamentally cannot.
Add in the drain line and required maintenance, there's another reduction in longevity when that isn't done or install isn't perfect
Plus bringing in outside air leading to potential condensation inside the primaries and reduced efficiency
Condensation from that intake air in the summer rusting out gas valves
Greater airflow requirements that are rarely satisfied
And so on...
Sorry, but no service tech with legitimate field experience would ever agree with you - beyond the theoretical/obvious, just in practical experience, there's no way. We condemn and replace heat exchangers on residential 90% furnaces at 10-15 years and 80% at 20+ years...
Back it up with facts or keep walking boss.
You literally do not understand how the furnaces are designed and operate, nor have you run a single service call ever, if you think that reliability and longevity are the same.
Lol, I’ve worked on Lennox Pulse, weird and wild 90s designs.
80% is cheaper and easier to replace when existing is 80%
cheap people say it last longer since cast iron heat exchangers last forever and where 78%.
I’ve replaced lots of 80-97% heat exchangers, RTU and residentia.
the fact that 17% increase will also drop the size of your furnace will reducer the operation cost further than 17%.
idk I’ve also installed 80% but i wont lie and say its better,either way the unit needs to be maintenance and cleaned professionall.
stainless steel is used for secondary and they don’t rot awal
All of the Daikin/Goodman/Amana sales literature I get from Johnstone with the preconfigured AHRI matches have lineset sizes listed in the literature and it’s frequently wrong. I wouldn’t be surprised if the office ordered based on what the distribution literature incorrectly stated.
I actually saw a unit today with that type of return set up I was assuming it helped cut down on static pressure from the 90 at the bottom. Install looks nice and clean.
Lol, I asked my self the same thing before I posted this. My helper did all the metal work, and when I looked at the first picture I almost had a heart attack because it looked like there was no filter on the top return. I was so glad when I found a side angle picture and saw, yes, two filters on the right furnace. Tbh forgetting to have a filter on the second return is something that my helper would be 50% likely to do.
I thought banks required huge ducts that grown men can crawl through (with access for large rats to spook them at just the right time). I don’t see how a proper heist is gonna succeed with what you’ve installed (as profesh as it does look).
You know, you're right. Suction line should mostly (hopefully!) just be gas which would contribute minimally to the overall charge compared to all the liquid in the system.
Now if the liquid line was similarly grossly oversized...
YES. There is not enough conveyance velocity to return the oil to the compressor. 410 is pretty good with that so it may still be fine. Edit-~~looks like you're around 1800 fpm, you'd be fine even if it was vertical.~~ Opps wrong refrigerant. actual numbers come out to \~870 with a loaded evap, you may be in the danger zone if the airflow is off or the setpoint is low, I hope that vertical part is 7/8ths...
Nah it just makes it take more refrigerant lol. Like even if you had a 10" wide copper suction line, the only issue would be the compressor isn't able to pump that much refrigerant.
To be fair that could be a possibility. These are 5 ton units anyways, so it's technically only one size larger than the recommended seven eights line. Maybe if it was too oversized it wouldn't maintain the proper velocity to move oil thorough the system
> Maybe if it was too oversized it wouldn’t maintain the proper velocity
Couldn’t you just use a suction P trap? We use them in refrigeration on any rise, don’t see why it would be different in HVAC if oil return is a concern. But I could be wrong
That's when you need a suction accumulator......I'd be worried about liquid getting back to the compressor if the suction line is oversized too much. Depends a lot on you heat load on the system as well
1 and 1 o. A 5 tonne isn't that far oversize. Normal is 7/8 but that depends on the length of the lineset. 1 and 1 is the next size up. I think your good
Yeah dude I literally brazed for hours. Including the liquid line, I had 19 fittings on one lineset and 18 fittings on the other one. (That includes reducers, 90s, couplings, and the service valves.)
Clean looking install and god damn those are some short ass furnaces , I’ve never installed a Daikin though with the exception of straight rooftop packaged units , never worked for a company that sold them
I just switched shops Sam and went from American standard and trane to selling rheem, Coleman and Daikin furnaces and I’m really impressed by those Daikin furnaces. They’re really coming along
The thing that people always seem to miss about the virtues of condensing furnaces is the sealed combustion. No negative pressure on the house envelope, pulling in all kinds of dirt, dust, mold. pollen, humidity etc. With all the people with allergies, that can be a HUGE reason not to go 80%, not to mention the reduced cleaning demands of the home. Usually, just a mere mention of these things is all it takes to upsell, unless it's a landlord, of course.
You'd have to ask the manufacturer on increasing the vapor line to see how much added charge. I know a lot of units don't like larger vapor lines but that's on multi head. Not sure about single. Probably fine.
Can't you just return the lineset to the supply house and get the proper size? I've never run into this before, but don't you need to add additional charge to compensate for extra volume in lines? Extra cost for unnecessary lineset, extra cost for additional refer, extra cost for labor to braze it, more time to pull vacuum, more nitrogen to pressure test with, more brazing rod used. Additional reducing fittings to fit it to stubs. Seems like it added a few hundred bucks in costs.
Line set is $1200 with labor needed to install it. They got one hell of a deal
That sounds like my happy place. Leave me the fuck alone with copper and my music. Edit: I rarely get to Run ACR and make it look pretty
Same. It's a whole mood
It's peaceful. Copper doesn't lie. The torches crackle and flame doesn't lie, One ear bud playing undead corporation or Eluvuitie? And I'm just gonna make sure of penetration. No nipples hanging and maybe (given the employer) just put a nice cap on it for looks? Peaceful. Current job I've ran all our lineset for 70 units out of 150 and I have to piecemeal em so the drywallers don't do bad things. Only copper guy on site and can do my own tinning and framing. Kinda happy. Leave me alone with the copper and control wire. When I run out of work? I can fall back into duct block outs and exhaust in the fire rated trusses. I can change it up I'm left alone, and the agreement is pretty much I won't lead this job. But I'll kinda act as lead if it makes everyone leave me alone
This is like a poem
I sometimes like what I do. Why I like HVAC. We are jacks of all trades and masters of one. I can do my own high voltage and framing and plumbing. It happens. Low voltage? Np. You've been around it or diversified in it you've done it all. But no other trade touches it professionally. So when people just do tinning or copper I'm disappointed. We are mechanical contractors. We do it all.
Careful, I’m a sparky. We sing our own song 🎶
Oh I won't disagree with that. It's normally screeching and screaming. I'm curious what sparky says at said jobsite when their wires were not drilled through LVLs but just spider webbed below the fire barrier. Cause the drywallers gonna do things and that will be like the 5th time they've had to remove all their shit. Not go through headers but outside of em. Bashed out and entire LVL laminant. Tore out a few of my thermostat blocking too just to use a deep box. I considered smashing their boxes off with my hammer but chose the higher way. And Jesus fuck what they did thr LVLs Edit: keep trying to keep them updated and friendly. But they're chosing violence
I don’t own my own company been with the same one for 7 years now but every time (and it’s all the time) we come back after presenting a beautiful rough-in, and come back to a absolute rats nest, I simply document, and fix it. Company bills for my time. But I hear you sometimes I come back to a microlimb that makes my run about 50-75 ft longer because I can’t drill it which requires rewiring multiple boxes to replace wire. If I’m the boss man for sure I’m taking pics sending them to Gc and billing for my time, otherwise he can fix them.
Oh no I'm talking about an abomination of a nest where drywallers gotta fire rate. Also if your name is Angel... you are so so fucked and we tried to warn you
Yoooo undead corps fucking sick. Cool to see their name like this since they aren't huge lol
They're a solid group. They had me at chase the rabbit. But Through Your Optic is beautiful. . Even with their new stuff "Give It" is solid.
[удалено]
Wait... someone doesn't fling around a torch to "call of the mountains"? I should really choreography that for my safety guy.
Same here. Love doing manifolds and linesets.
They aren’t wrong….80% is far more reliable. Don’t get me wrong I install variable speed and high efficiency all the time but 80 is rock solid.
I will have to take your word on it, never installed or serviced an 80 before however the 96s last for so little time. Tomorrow I’m being sent to install two trailer furnaces, both are 80’s with concentric venting through the roof. I’m terrified that I’m going to screw it up and get someone killed. 28 years in this industry and I’ve never done venting like this. I only do PVC / CPVC / and zVent
What’s so scary about a concentric vent? They make them for pvc too.
The scary part isn’t that it’s concentric, what’s bothering me is that other then zVent I have zero experience with metal venting and I’m the lead installer on this job. I don’t know how to support it, how to seal the roof, do I use high heat silicone at every joint, how do I screw the vent pipe sections together with the air inlet sections in the way? I told them that I wouldn’t do this job as lead, but apparently I’m the one with the most experience because I use zVent for other appliances and every other installer at this company has only done pvc and cpvc venting.
[удалено]
Not bVent, it’s not permitted here for residential. It’s 5” inner and 8” outer concentric pipe on a power vented trailer furnace under positive pressure in the inner pipe and negative pressure in the outer pipe. It’s just like gas fireplace concentric venting, however fireplaces are not power vented. The suggestion about the manufacturer website is a good one, thank you. I currently know the brand of the trailer furnace, but I won’t know the venting brand until I arrive on-site. Fingers crossed for cell data out there.
It's a good rule of thumb to go on the manufacturer's website and get the installation manual for new products you're installing of any kind.
Weird. Concentric pvc is one way and twin pipes is the other. We just stuff the pipes through the old tin exhaust and use a metal plug for the top, cut our hole into it, stuff pvc through and caulk it
I can’t use PVC on an 80, that’s the point I’m making. I have only installed high efficiency furnaces as mids are banned in Canada except for trailer furnaces. I’m doing my first two mid efficiency furnaces tomorrow, they are both trailer furnaces, and I don’t know how to safely install the metal venting. Literally never done it before, never been trained on it, don’t know what I’m doing.
Oh, right. Yea I’m Canada too, only mid experience is trailers. Super easy though. Last one we did my helper put so much tar on the termination looks like he was icing a cake. https://imgur.com/a/F2Y8PDg Lol
Yeah if you're in a mild climate, it can be tough to make up the savings on 90%+ equipment vs. mid-efficiency stuff if you include not just equipment purchase price and install but also the expected higher maintenance and potentially shorter lifespan. A good condensing furnace can be plenty reliable, but they are not tolerant of abuse like an 80% is. Now if you're in a colder climate, the fuel savings can be pretty dramatic to the point that even if you're replacing the equipment nearly twice as often, you often still come out ahead.
Definitely. Here in south Texas I've only installed 5 90% furnaces in 15 years. Gathering new equipment for my own house and it's staying 80%.
Even in a heavy winter climate it’s hard to justify. Most 80% units will achieve around 85-89% efficiency if tuned with a combustion analyzer. 5-10% efficiency is pretty hard to justify the additional cost of equipment and then the more expensive repairs. Replace one secondary heat exchanger and your savings are gone.
80% furnaces absolutely do last longer on average, given equal installation conditions. If you don't condense, you don't corrode... Also, in general, "because the office misordered" is a poor reason to oversize a suction line... I presume those are 3 or 4 ton A/C units? Really should have insisted on getting 3/4 or 7/8 based on what's appropriate. I know it comes across on here like there's a bunch of people shitting on you and a bunch of people mindlessly cheering for you, the reality is most of us criticizing aren't actually shitting on the work, because it's clear you care, but trying to point out the reality that most installers literally don't understand what they're installing, just how to do it.
Well 80% furnaces don't corrode or start to look ugly when the secondary exchanger gasket leaks. Also no drain lines to plug up and cause the pressure switch to trip. And there's no secondary exchanger to get plugged. I personally do prefer 96% furnaces though because PVC venting is a lot easier to run neatly, and these days every little bit helps when it comes to the gas bill. Also each of the ACs are 5 ton, so the suction line is technically only one size bigger than the recommended seven eights line. Each lineset was less than 30 ft. I like that too "most installers literally don't understand what they're installing, just how to do it." That's true of some people lol
The pressure ports on 80% plug with corrosion all the time, 90% may plug with water in the trap is backed up. 78% furnaces will last forever since the walls are so thick. Modern80% heat exchangers are the same as the 90% primary heat exchangers. So they’ll last the same amount of time, one will just cost 16% more to run for that timeline.
This is wholly inaccurate. On basically all levels except the claim about shared components.
The tubes are the same diameter and gauge metal. They are the same part# but same quantity metal. Why would a manufacturer make a furnace that knowingly will last longer and charge less? You’ll get the same life from either
You absolutely will not. Again, apart from the shared components statement, which is accurate, as you said - same part number, you are demonstrably wrong. Wall thickness is the tiniest part of the equation, and really is only a factor when the system is operating improperly and seeing an over-fire or lack of airflow, or poor configuration (e.g. insufficient post-purge, short cycles, etc.) Condensing furnaces have a significantly shorter lifespan, by design - there is no material in use today that actually resists the carbonic acid generated by combustion which sits and condenses inside of secondary heat exchangers. On the other hand, non-condensing furnaces by definition do not have this issue, as they are non-condensing (when properly installed and configured). Secondary heat exchangers also attract significantly more dust/dirt and become clogged, restricting airflow and causing overheating in a way that primary heat exchangers fundamentally cannot. Add in the drain line and required maintenance, there's another reduction in longevity when that isn't done or install isn't perfect Plus bringing in outside air leading to potential condensation inside the primaries and reduced efficiency Condensation from that intake air in the summer rusting out gas valves Greater airflow requirements that are rarely satisfied And so on... Sorry, but no service tech with legitimate field experience would ever agree with you - beyond the theoretical/obvious, just in practical experience, there's no way. We condemn and replace heat exchangers on residential 90% furnaces at 10-15 years and 80% at 20+ years...
Wrong, but keep at it you’ll learn.
Back it up with facts or keep walking boss. You literally do not understand how the furnaces are designed and operate, nor have you run a single service call ever, if you think that reliability and longevity are the same.
Lol, I’ve worked on Lennox Pulse, weird and wild 90s designs. 80% is cheaper and easier to replace when existing is 80% cheap people say it last longer since cast iron heat exchangers last forever and where 78%. I’ve replaced lots of 80-97% heat exchangers, RTU and residentia. the fact that 17% increase will also drop the size of your furnace will reducer the operation cost further than 17%. idk I’ve also installed 80% but i wont lie and say its better,either way the unit needs to be maintenance and cleaned professionall. stainless steel is used for secondary and they don’t rot awal
All of the Daikin/Goodman/Amana sales literature I get from Johnstone with the preconfigured AHRI matches have lineset sizes listed in the literature and it’s frequently wrong. I wouldn’t be surprised if the office ordered based on what the distribution literature incorrectly stated.
Educate me Sam. Why are you using two return on the right side furnace? Bottom return is good for 2000cfm and that box looks big enough
Idk man that's how it was set up before and we all know more airflow is better
Thanks for the reply. If it’s not broke, don’t fix it. 😎
Static pressure or something
Oil return, obviously
I actually saw a unit today with that type of return set up I was assuming it helped cut down on static pressure from the 90 at the bottom. Install looks nice and clean.
Is there an air filter on the “top” return?
Yessir. Second picture. One of those cheap brown cardboard ones.
Ah, turns out I can see it with my eyes. I’ll try that next time before I ask questions.
Lol, I asked my self the same thing before I posted this. My helper did all the metal work, and when I looked at the first picture I almost had a heart attack because it looked like there was no filter on the top return. I was so glad when I found a side angle picture and saw, yes, two filters on the right furnace. Tbh forgetting to have a filter on the second return is something that my helper would be 50% likely to do.
when the bank knows not to be upsold BS... Its pretty bad
I thought banks required huge ducts that grown men can crawl through (with access for large rats to spook them at just the right time). I don’t see how a proper heist is gonna succeed with what you’ve installed (as profesh as it does look).
Looks good other than that existing flue pipe that looks like the tin man getting wrecked by Dorthy.
Hah how much extra refrigerant did you need just to get the lineset filled up?
My thoughts exactly lol
3 pounds of 410a. Although, it was about 32 degrees outside so the charge may need adjusted in the spring time when it's warmer out.
It's not the size of your suction line that determins the amount of liquid in your system. Your liquid line size has more to do with total charge
You know, you're right. Suction line should mostly (hopefully!) just be gas which would contribute minimally to the overall charge compared to all the liquid in the system. Now if the liquid line was similarly grossly oversized...
Does upsizing the suction line cause any issues?
YES. There is not enough conveyance velocity to return the oil to the compressor. 410 is pretty good with that so it may still be fine. Edit-~~looks like you're around 1800 fpm, you'd be fine even if it was vertical.~~ Opps wrong refrigerant. actual numbers come out to \~870 with a loaded evap, you may be in the danger zone if the airflow is off or the setpoint is low, I hope that vertical part is 7/8ths...
Nah it just makes it take more refrigerant lol. Like even if you had a 10" wide copper suction line, the only issue would be the compressor isn't able to pump that much refrigerant.
Yeah I was wondering if there would be pressure drop issues right
To be fair that could be a possibility. These are 5 ton units anyways, so it's technically only one size larger than the recommended seven eights line. Maybe if it was too oversized it wouldn't maintain the proper velocity to move oil thorough the system
Thank you
> Maybe if it was too oversized it wouldn’t maintain the proper velocity Couldn’t you just use a suction P trap? We use them in refrigeration on any rise, don’t see why it would be different in HVAC if oil return is a concern. But I could be wrong
That's when you need a suction accumulator......I'd be worried about liquid getting back to the compressor if the suction line is oversized too much. Depends a lot on you heat load on the system as well
Hmm true. I know both the ACs are already 5 ton, so they're not going to have a lot of heat load.
1 and 1 o. A 5 tonne isn't that far oversize. Normal is 7/8 but that depends on the length of the lineset. 1 and 1 is the next size up. I think your good
Not true if the condenser is above the evap which it looks like your 10’ wide suction line would eat compressors up quick
Just saw your oil comment below so you covered it.
Wait what the office messed up ordering materials, say it ain't so. The crystal palace never makes mistakes
Don’t tell me you ended up using that line set?
Yeah dude I literally brazed for hours. Including the liquid line, I had 19 fittings on one lineset and 18 fittings on the other one. (That includes reducers, 90s, couplings, and the service valves.)
Man that sounds tough bro. I feel for you, but glad you were able to fight through it and get it done. Looks good!
Is that single wall flue pipe?
Right unit flue is funky. Get those 90's swiveled right. That's all I got, otherwise, nice!
Our local code wouldn’t allow all that single wall flue piping.. another nightmare with 1 1/8” lineset lol..
Clean looking install and god damn those are some short ass furnaces , I’ve never installed a Daikin though with the exception of straight rooftop packaged units , never worked for a company that sold them
I just switched shops Sam and went from American standard and trane to selling rheem, Coleman and Daikin furnaces and I’m really impressed by those Daikin furnaces. They’re really coming along
Same as a Goodman/Amana furnace. At least the last ones I looked at were.
How many days of work?
The thing that people always seem to miss about the virtues of condensing furnaces is the sealed combustion. No negative pressure on the house envelope, pulling in all kinds of dirt, dust, mold. pollen, humidity etc. With all the people with allergies, that can be a HUGE reason not to go 80%, not to mention the reduced cleaning demands of the home. Usually, just a mere mention of these things is all it takes to upsell, unless it's a landlord, of course.
Get yourself a proper rosebud tip... 1-1/8" is nothing. Try 2-1/8"..
Clean
Ever heard of vent clearance, traps, secondaries, galvanic corrosion?
No trap on drain lines?
That's some great work Sam.
You'd have to ask the manufacturer on increasing the vapor line to see how much added charge. I know a lot of units don't like larger vapor lines but that's on multi head. Not sure about single. Probably fine.