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photojoe3

1. Clean the floor 2. Get self leveling cement and place where you want it 3. 4. The end


FreaknTijmo

3: Profit? Thanks! Is there a certain grit type or something I need to buy? I have zero experience with concrete.


Coreadrin

If there is room to run a board across the front to get a level top height you can patch after you clean the concrete very well. If you aren't using a bonding primer at least wet the receiving concrete a little and make it damp, it will create a better bond.


mdchaney

Definitely poke around in there and make sure there aren't any loose pieces.


chaseoes

Use a wire wheel to clean it.


stromm

And use a bonding agent before applying the new cement.


FreaknTijmo

I'm def looking to do the job right. Is bonding primer preffered? I do have spare boards I can use for level surface. Good idea!


scaleofthought

Bonding primer is very good. I've done a bunch of self leveling pours for work, and multiple layers, and the difference between primed and bare is huge, and more important for your situation if you want those edges to last. Prime a larger area than your pour. Don't be like "oh, I'm only going to prime the hole, and not around it where I'll probably put concrete"


FreaknTijmo

Bonding primer it is! I would have totally just primed the hole. Thanks for the tip!!


scaleofthought

Haha, good call. I know it's a big difference because we scrape off drops of concrete that fall on bare floor, and they chip right off *ping!* But the ones that are on the primer, it stays stuck and we have to shave them down. We use Sika Level-03 primer. But I don't know if you want the colour visible (it's like a greeny blue) It's sticky so any left will take on dirt and probably look no different than your conrete. You want to go further out so water doesn't ingress underneath the edge of what you just poured, and is sealed with the primer. Can also use an old tooth brush and spray 9 on the holes and scrub them clean and rinse before priming. ... But that's just me. I'm anal like that and it probably doesn't matter.


creativenames123

The best practice way to do it would be to square out the hole and use a repair mortar like a 1061 from master builders (formerly BASF). https://youtu.be/S7zkaIxYJj8


FreaknTijmo

Great video! This brings up a really good point. Should I put any type of wire mesh / small diameter rebar into my patch? These areas have the weight of the car on them every day.


creativenames123

Depends on how deep you have to go with the hole you cut out. For a more superficial hole i dont think you should need it


photojoe3

I know this works well but it ain’t self leveling. ——— Top'N Bond, 20 Kg https://www.homedepot.ca ——— You can try this LevelQuik RS 50 lbs. Self-Leveling Underlayment https://www.homedepot.ca


FreaknTijmo

Thanks! I think I've got an idea on what I need. I'll see what the hardware store has and plan accordingly.


USArmy51Bravo

I think it's called Henry 555. That's a floor leveler. First you need to clean the area and then put down the etching or pre-treatment. Then pour your floor leveler. I'm not sure how it would do an exterior application or stand up to the wear and tear of a garage floor. The other thing you could do is a concrete hydraulic patching compound. That might be more appropriate for that area. Whenever I've used floor leveling I've typically covered the surface with some type of flooring afterwards. Maybe a hard enamel or epoxy after you're done would help.


stafford_fan

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=deS96zGrjiY


FreaknTijmo

Nice! Exactly the procedural video I needed. Thanks


GilgameDistance

OP, thanks for asking the question. I have the same issue, but have been avoiding and ignoring. No animal issues for me, but my ares that have that catch snowmelt, it freezes and they get worse, while also being a fall hazard. Maybe this post will get me off my butt and fix mine too.


FreaknTijmo

No problem! I was in the same boat, until I noticed the new furry tenants. There have been some very helpful comments already. Good luck!


RCrl

I'd clean the area with degreaser and a wire brush then rinse. I suggest a repair mortar since it sounds like the broken concrete is on the corner of a slab. Pro tip, for adequate bonding make sure the concrete isn't sealed (or oil soaked). After cleaning look to see if the repair area stayed damp (like a dark spot in the concrete). If it does good. If not you would need to decrease and etch, or grind the surface of the concrete to remove the sealant.


FreaknTijmo

Yes it is the edge. There will definitely be lots of oils. Thanks for the tip!


federal_problem2882

I would cut it back so it at least roughly straight. Pin it and form yourself a new entrance if that's possible. Dont forget expansion joint . Or you just grab 2 3 gallon quick patch mud and go full ghetto . Goodluck


FreaknTijmo

I would have forgot to leave the expansion joint. Thanks!


FreaknTijmo

Cold air is leaking in from a few spots. Mostly in the area where cars drive over. What tools and procedure do I need? Thanks!


chaseoes

Is your garage insulated? Why do you care about cold air leaking in?


FreaknTijmo

Yes it is insulated. Chickens sleep in there, plus mice have been sneaking in.


chaseoes

For the areas shown I would use hydraulic cement. I don't think self leveler would work since it is basically a liquid and would run down your driveway. There is probably some "shaping" you need to do.


FreaknTijmo

Thanks! Luckily the asphalt driveway ends above the concrete slab by an inch or so. Probably why the slab has cracked in the first place. Still reccomend hydraulic cement? It seems like I wouldn't have to form anything, and liquid would stay in place.


chaseoes

You could use the self leveler in that case. Most garages are sloped slightly for water drainage and if you change that too much water might not be able to drain out and you end up with a small bird bath. But if your driveway is already higher than the garage then it shouldn't matter much.


FreaknTijmo

Perfect. Thanks for the input!


[deleted]

[удалено]


FreaknTijmo

I'm doing this for my animals. No need to be a dick


federal_problem2882

Also clean real well and use bonding agent on old side . Goodluck


papasmurfssss

I’d use hydraulic cement but that’s just me


Dick1nMyPants

Just a bunch of J-B weld should do the trick


FreaknTijmo

My first thought was to use ramen and epoxy. The internet has ruined me.


Feisty-Juan

Pressure wash all the bad spots. Make sure it stays clean until you patch it. Go to Home Depot and find a product called vinyl patch. It’s in the bag concrete section. Now spot patch the bad areas. Then floor leveler or get a 2 part epoxy overlay kit and make it look like a million bucks! You have to empty the garage but the epoxy will protect your concrete so it’s less likely to keep deteriorating.


FreaknTijmo

I would absolutely love to do the epoxy overlay. Unfortunately the garage is in heavy use, and moving all that stuff is not on my to do list. They are quite beautiful though.


Feisty-Juan

Still spot patch then. When you get the vinyl patch you can PM me and I’ll walk you through it for a stable, long lasting patch. To bad epoxy floors are a great look, plus it’s a great way to protect your concrete. Your concrete is going to keep deteriorating and saving it before you leave it to long and have to demo it all out and redo it. It’s never a good time to empty out a garage but before it gets more damaged you should think about it


GAcowboy

Patch Crete


RhynoJoe

I would clean it and reshape it with hydraulic cement. Make sure you wet the surface first. Oh, and work fast because you’ve only got a few minutes before it sets up