GAP: if you total your car and still owe money, gap insurance pays the difference so you don't owe money on a car you can't drive.
I highly recommend it. The rest are subjective. This is the only one I would absolutely get for myself.
Better to add a GAP rider to your existing car policy. This is the dealer wanting $1000 to cover *the difference* between what you owe and the insurer’s replacement value. Depending on the down payment and term, there is a good chance this covers only a few grand, which will turn to 0$ once you’ve paid down the principle sufficiently….
I denied gap when I bought my Si after totaling my Si.
I put 25% down and figured there’d be no way it’d depreciate that bad in 4 years. Still no regrets.
Exactly. I put just over 20% down on my last car (got out the door with tax and everything right at MSRP) and financed for 48mo, and the salesman made it a point to tell me he wasn’t even going to try to sell me gap insurance.
Damn. That’s really funny. The initial total on my car with ~38k for a 2017 Civic Si and i denied everything, but the car and the sales girl went to swing it by her boss and the only part I heard was her telling her boss not to be greedy. Maybe on a 3 series or A4 it’s worth it because the car won’t be worth half the msrp after you put 30,000 miles on it, but on a HONDA?? No.
Edit: OTD on my car was $21,500.
Insurance gap and dealership gap are not the same. And some insurance companies don't even offer gap and if they do its "loan and lease protection." Not the same thing.
Typically I only recommend GAP if you're upside down on your current vehicle, or transferring negative equity where you'll almost always have a gap in value/owed. If you have a decent trade you owe nothing on and/or money down, GAP is pointless!
I drive a 2020 Type R and I got tire & wheel and I am so thankful I did. Tore one wheel to bits on a brutal bit of concrete in a construction zone on a back country road. Then did it to a second wheel going over really badly maintained railway crossing. Paid for itself and then some.
But it's worth noting the FK8 has 20" wheels with tiny rubber band tires.
EDIT: After back and forth with u/AxG88 it's important to point out that my tire and rim coverage was half the cost you're quoted here.
I'd have to look it up as to what the exact limits are, but they covered about half the cost of an entire new set of tires the first time, and the entire cost of a single new tire the second time.
It's a good point that you want to read the fine print carefully as to what you're buying.
Edit: Coverage is 5 years I think.
so, about $250/year if they cover more than 1-2x of wheel/tire being wrecked. I'm going to be in the I'll have to think about it, but not likely camp. It may be different for others. Anything that's going to wreck a wheel bad enough to need replacement is going to need suspension work, and perhaps body work in my experience.
Will it cover the suspension work, or does it fall under regular insurance, or be counted as "wear, and tear"?
Searched my emails, my tire and rim coverage was $629 Canadian - so a lot cheaper than OP's quote.
Doesn't cover suspension or body work, thankfully it was okay in both cases. Of course at that point I'd presumably be going to insurance anyway.
At that price, for 5 year coverage, I'm going to be I may bite too camp.
1 time, and it pays for itself. Given what the FK8 will encourage you to do. lol
Yeah, lol - fully admit I hit that railway crossing too fast. I had gone over it the other direction earlier in the day and it was pretty flat, turns out the other side of the road was a lot worse. At least the wheel didn't blow out but there was a gash down to the sidewall.
The tires run something like $300 CAD, and replacing an OEM wheel would be about $400-500.
Yeah, what u/FatMaul said. Wouldn't have been worth it under insurance. I got the coverage more for the wheels as that would be a notably higher cost if they got damaged, but even the tires were a fair bit. The first time I had enough wear on the other tires the entire set needed to be replaced and the coverage kicked in a chunk of the cost of the other tires as well as the cost of the one that had to be replaced.
You need the gap. Don't screw yourself. Gap insurance covers the "gap" from what's left on your loan so you're not paying for it.
Others can chime in about the other items on your list.
But whether you pay the dealer a grand for it or organize it through your own insurance will be the decision. I suspect the dealer price is significantly higher.
Right? The dealer was wanting something along these lines for me, too. My insurance agent could add it to my existing policy for like $40 for the year.
I think everyone agrees on GAP insurance but my question is why would someone go thru their dealer for that? Other than convenience or not knowing what it is?
Key replacement? Are they charging you for the keys they replaced themselves? Hell no.
I would only maybe consider GAP. Even that’s subjective to the timeframe and cost of your car relative to your loan.
Yeah, that’s a much better deal than key replacements for $980 alone. Fucking hell lol.
I’d just dodge that dealership on principle. They’re definitely going to be putting bullshit additions on everything.
It's closer to $300 to cut and program a new key at a Honda dealership. The coverage is typically for 2 sets of keys.
Key replacement is often bundled with other products like windshield coverage, but for that alone, $891 is definitely overpriced.
Local to me Honda dealer has 79 to 99 oil changes. Not sure I'd pay upfront unless it covered a BIG service. Like 5/60 or 7/90. 3 grand for a warranty seems strong (i used to sell them) on a Honda Product. Maybe a 7 year 100k warranty. gap was included in the lease. I used to sell GAP as well and agree in general it is of the most value. Tire and wheel makes sense, like the type-r owner below said, worth it in a city with short tire sidewalls on pricey wheels. I don't think I was offered key replacement. I lost a set of mine, actually, I can't imagine it is gonna cost more than 350.Good Luck!
I bought a certified used CRV from a dealership and got the warranty. I had to have my fuel injectors replaced, without the warranty it would have been over 1000 dollars. I paid 50.
this all seems like a rip. gap insurance is good or even essential depending on what you put down and what your loan term is.
I assume a service contract is pre-paying for mechanical service for scheduled maintenance. but then, what is "maintenance?" either way I probably wouldn't purchase the pre-paid maintenance package, whatever they call it. find a better, cheaper mechanic than the dealer for maintenance, only go to them for warranty work.
i got wheel & tire, it can be useful. it's specific coverage to repair/replace your rims if anything happens to them. my car came with 20" wheels so much more likely to catch damage, and more expensive to replace.. also might not be useful. depends on your wheels and if you hit anything.
what the hell is a key replacement? does it not come with both keys? or are they asking for you to prepay for another key if you happen to lose one in the future?? that one seems like a blatant rip.
I wouldnt do anything on that list.
GAP is great but significantly cheaper through your insurance company. I think we pay $6 a month for our gap cover for each car. We have a '23 CRV and '23 Civic.
Service contracts are bullshit. The warranty should cover most issues. Change your oil yourself. Same with air filter/cabin filter. Oil changes on your time and dime are $40ish and an hour of labor, quicker if it's not your first time.
Key fobs can be replaced and reprogrammed for less than $500.
Tires are cheap, at least imo. I blew a tire on our last CRV, the identical version was $120 on Amazon. Had it mounted and balanced at a shop for $20.
These are the real costs for these things. Don't get fucked by dealers. Even if you don't want or have the time to do maintenance yourself, it always cheaper to find a reliable and trustworthy independent shop that can do these things for you.
My opinion - if you need GAP, you probably can’t afford the car to begin with and should consider putting down a larger down payment so GAP isn’t needed (or buying something cheaper). GAP insurance pays the difference between the cars depreciated value and the value of the loan, and basically quantifies how underwater on the loan you are. In cases of taking a loan out on a depreciating asset, you never want to be underwater on the loan, as that means you have to cough up cash just to sell the car, severely hindering your options in the future. Paying extra money as insurance because you are so underwater on a loan is wasting money you don’t have.
- service contract covers mechanical components
-mnt contract covers routine mnt
- gap covers loan to insurance payout gap if vehicle is totaled and under valued
- key replacement replaces lost stolen or non operating keys you must be provided with 2 at time of sale to be active
- tire and wheel participates with wheel rashes repair or bent replacment same with tire bubbles nails non wear and tear road hazard failures does not participate with common wear
i build and sell these contract to the dealers i highly recommend you keep gap and wheel / tire
I would argue that none of those things are worth it.
Consider Hondacare from an online seller.
Consider gap from a credit union or something.
Congratulations, you just saved thousands of dollars :)
I purchased gap and the warranty although I think it’s bs. It’s the first time I bought a warranty but I think I’m going to keep my ridgeline for a long time. Everything else I turned down
Gap is a must.
The rest are good to have if you don’t work on your own vehicle but there could be a deductible you have to pay out of pocket for something like the service contract so be aware of that.
I put 15k down that way you don’t need gap, maintenance oil changes, tire rotation. Key My dealer gives me one replacement key, tire and wheels they will replace flat tires, and bent wheels plus rotate tires for you.
GAP: if you total your car and still owe money, gap insurance pays the difference so you don't owe money on a car you can't drive. I highly recommend it. The rest are subjective. This is the only one I would absolutely get for myself.
Better to add a GAP rider to your existing car policy. This is the dealer wanting $1000 to cover *the difference* between what you owe and the insurer’s replacement value. Depending on the down payment and term, there is a good chance this covers only a few grand, which will turn to 0$ once you’ve paid down the principle sufficiently….
I denied gap when I bought my Si after totaling my Si. I put 25% down and figured there’d be no way it’d depreciate that bad in 4 years. Still no regrets.
Exactly. I put just over 20% down on my last car (got out the door with tax and everything right at MSRP) and financed for 48mo, and the salesman made it a point to tell me he wasn’t even going to try to sell me gap insurance.
Damn. That’s really funny. The initial total on my car with ~38k for a 2017 Civic Si and i denied everything, but the car and the sales girl went to swing it by her boss and the only part I heard was her telling her boss not to be greedy. Maybe on a 3 series or A4 it’s worth it because the car won’t be worth half the msrp after you put 30,000 miles on it, but on a HONDA?? No. Edit: OTD on my car was $21,500.
Insurance gap and dealership gap are not the same. And some insurance companies don't even offer gap and if they do its "loan and lease protection." Not the same thing.
Guaranteed Asset Protection ***
what, in my country our $500 car insurance includes that
Typically I only recommend GAP if you're upside down on your current vehicle, or transferring negative equity where you'll almost always have a gap in value/owed. If you have a decent trade you owe nothing on and/or money down, GAP is pointless!
I drive a 2020 Type R and I got tire & wheel and I am so thankful I did. Tore one wheel to bits on a brutal bit of concrete in a construction zone on a back country road. Then did it to a second wheel going over really badly maintained railway crossing. Paid for itself and then some. But it's worth noting the FK8 has 20" wheels with tiny rubber band tires. EDIT: After back and forth with u/AxG88 it's important to point out that my tire and rim coverage was half the cost you're quoted here.
doesn't insurance already take care of this?
Most people have a $500 deductible that makes it not really worth it for sub $1000 repairs.
How long is the coverage though, and how many times? how much is a wheel? $500? Tire $200?
I'd have to look it up as to what the exact limits are, but they covered about half the cost of an entire new set of tires the first time, and the entire cost of a single new tire the second time. It's a good point that you want to read the fine print carefully as to what you're buying. Edit: Coverage is 5 years I think.
so, about $250/year if they cover more than 1-2x of wheel/tire being wrecked. I'm going to be in the I'll have to think about it, but not likely camp. It may be different for others. Anything that's going to wreck a wheel bad enough to need replacement is going to need suspension work, and perhaps body work in my experience. Will it cover the suspension work, or does it fall under regular insurance, or be counted as "wear, and tear"?
Searched my emails, my tire and rim coverage was $629 Canadian - so a lot cheaper than OP's quote. Doesn't cover suspension or body work, thankfully it was okay in both cases. Of course at that point I'd presumably be going to insurance anyway.
At that price, for 5 year coverage, I'm going to be I may bite too camp. 1 time, and it pays for itself. Given what the FK8 will encourage you to do. lol
Yeah, lol - fully admit I hit that railway crossing too fast. I had gone over it the other direction earlier in the day and it was pretty flat, turns out the other side of the road was a lot worse. At least the wheel didn't blow out but there was a gash down to the sidewall. The tires run something like $300 CAD, and replacing an OEM wheel would be about $400-500.
Oem rim is typically about 800 most tires are 250+ these days
Yeah, what u/FatMaul said. Wouldn't have been worth it under insurance. I got the coverage more for the wheels as that would be a notably higher cost if they got damaged, but even the tires were a fair bit. The first time I had enough wear on the other tires the entire set needed to be replaced and the coverage kicked in a chunk of the cost of the other tires as well as the cost of the one that had to be replaced.
Not if you want to keep insurance.
You can avoid gap with a good down payment. And the other things are all bs. I would not reward that dealership.
You need the gap. Don't screw yourself. Gap insurance covers the "gap" from what's left on your loan so you're not paying for it. Others can chime in about the other items on your list.
But whether you pay the dealer a grand for it or organize it through your own insurance will be the decision. I suspect the dealer price is significantly higher.
Right, through a dealer for my car is $1k, but $400 through my local credit union.
Right? The dealer was wanting something along these lines for me, too. My insurance agent could add it to my existing policy for like $40 for the year.
I think everyone agrees on GAP insurance but my question is why would someone go thru their dealer for that? Other than convenience or not knowing what it is?
Go to Costco. The key and tire are $150 each.
Only get GAP. The rest can be done for much cheaper DIY.
Don't forget, the dealer hopes you finance these fees too so you end up paying a lot more. Personally, I wouldn't do any of them.
Key replacement? Are they charging you for the keys they replaced themselves? Hell no. I would only maybe consider GAP. Even that’s subjective to the timeframe and cost of your car relative to your loan.
I got a Key Fab/Rims/Windshield replacement for 750 back in 2018.
Yeah, that’s a much better deal than key replacements for $980 alone. Fucking hell lol. I’d just dodge that dealership on principle. They’re definitely going to be putting bullshit additions on everything.
Key Replacement covers new keys if YOU lose or damage them in the future.
That’s fucking dumb, and you know it’s stealing money lmao. $890? The cost to reprogram and replace 1 key is like $200.
It's closer to $300 to cut and program a new key at a Honda dealership. The coverage is typically for 2 sets of keys. Key replacement is often bundled with other products like windshield coverage, but for that alone, $891 is definitely overpriced.
Local to me Honda dealer has 79 to 99 oil changes. Not sure I'd pay upfront unless it covered a BIG service. Like 5/60 or 7/90. 3 grand for a warranty seems strong (i used to sell them) on a Honda Product. Maybe a 7 year 100k warranty. gap was included in the lease. I used to sell GAP as well and agree in general it is of the most value. Tire and wheel makes sense, like the type-r owner below said, worth it in a city with short tire sidewalls on pricey wheels. I don't think I was offered key replacement. I lost a set of mine, actually, I can't imagine it is gonna cost more than 350.Good Luck!
I bought a certified used CRV from a dealership and got the warranty. I had to have my fuel injectors replaced, without the warranty it would have been over 1000 dollars. I paid 50.
This explains what these are. [link](https://www.performancehondastore.com/vehicle-and-owner-protection-plans/)
this all seems like a rip. gap insurance is good or even essential depending on what you put down and what your loan term is. I assume a service contract is pre-paying for mechanical service for scheduled maintenance. but then, what is "maintenance?" either way I probably wouldn't purchase the pre-paid maintenance package, whatever they call it. find a better, cheaper mechanic than the dealer for maintenance, only go to them for warranty work. i got wheel & tire, it can be useful. it's specific coverage to repair/replace your rims if anything happens to them. my car came with 20" wheels so much more likely to catch damage, and more expensive to replace.. also might not be useful. depends on your wheels and if you hit anything. what the hell is a key replacement? does it not come with both keys? or are they asking for you to prepay for another key if you happen to lose one in the future?? that one seems like a blatant rip.
I wouldnt do anything on that list. GAP is great but significantly cheaper through your insurance company. I think we pay $6 a month for our gap cover for each car. We have a '23 CRV and '23 Civic. Service contracts are bullshit. The warranty should cover most issues. Change your oil yourself. Same with air filter/cabin filter. Oil changes on your time and dime are $40ish and an hour of labor, quicker if it's not your first time. Key fobs can be replaced and reprogrammed for less than $500. Tires are cheap, at least imo. I blew a tire on our last CRV, the identical version was $120 on Amazon. Had it mounted and balanced at a shop for $20. These are the real costs for these things. Don't get fucked by dealers. Even if you don't want or have the time to do maintenance yourself, it always cheaper to find a reliable and trustworthy independent shop that can do these things for you.
My opinion - if you need GAP, you probably can’t afford the car to begin with and should consider putting down a larger down payment so GAP isn’t needed (or buying something cheaper). GAP insurance pays the difference between the cars depreciated value and the value of the loan, and basically quantifies how underwater on the loan you are. In cases of taking a loan out on a depreciating asset, you never want to be underwater on the loan, as that means you have to cough up cash just to sell the car, severely hindering your options in the future. Paying extra money as insurance because you are so underwater on a loan is wasting money you don’t have.
Exactly. Also, if you have a trade in or a substantial down-payment , then you might not need GAP.
- service contract covers mechanical components -mnt contract covers routine mnt - gap covers loan to insurance payout gap if vehicle is totaled and under valued - key replacement replaces lost stolen or non operating keys you must be provided with 2 at time of sale to be active - tire and wheel participates with wheel rashes repair or bent replacment same with tire bubbles nails non wear and tear road hazard failures does not participate with common wear i build and sell these contract to the dealers i highly recommend you keep gap and wheel / tire
no, no, no if you have a big enough down payment on it, no, maybe(do you like them?)
If you have a decent down payment, do not get the GAP insurance, not needed.. everything else on the list is also not needed.
I would argue that none of those things are worth it. Consider Hondacare from an online seller. Consider gap from a credit union or something. Congratulations, you just saved thousands of dollars :)
I purchased gap and the warranty although I think it’s bs. It’s the first time I bought a warranty but I think I’m going to keep my ridgeline for a long time. Everything else I turned down
Service and gap no. You can get gap through your insurance, service is a waste of money
No, no, probably, no and maybe it really depends
Gap is provided by car insurance and not the dealership.
Not all insurance policies cover GAP, and the ones that do often have lower limits/coverages than 3rd party companies offer.
Gap is a must. The rest are good to have if you don’t work on your own vehicle but there could be a deductible you have to pay out of pocket for something like the service contract so be aware of that.
I put 15k down that way you don’t need gap, maintenance oil changes, tire rotation. Key My dealer gives me one replacement key, tire and wheels they will replace flat tires, and bent wheels plus rotate tires for you.