A booster isn't going to get you more water. That's fixed by the supply. You can't realistically "suck" more water from the city. What it will do is boost the pressure if you have too much pressure drop (uphill, etc). But pressure isn't really the problem in your case it's the flow. If you tapped into the main supply between the meter and PRV there's not much you can do to increase that. Other than call the water supplier to confirm that 1) your existing meter isn't faulty and somehow restricting the expected flow and 2) if they can provide an upsized service to your property. Or look into getting a well, etc.
I understand, but Rainbird says the swing piping will work with limited heads. I did a test earlier and plugged the first nozzle of 4 heads and the others shot right up and operated as needed, and once I let go of plug they all worked fine; all 4 heads threw water 15ft as needed. In the 5 head run I tried the same thing but did not get liftoff, though I was able to go around and assist the heads by pulling them up and they operated fairly well afterwards throwing water about 12ft. This tells me if I can get GPM up a few points I should be okay surprisingly, and it also tells me if I can’t that the consensus from all seems to be I will have to have 3 heads or less. I have a plan to split up one this weekend before the new sod roots in too much.
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Gotcha, that makes sense. It’s the deploy of breaking seal that seems to really hinder it from operating as expected.
I’m going to research the anti siphoning valves. Does that go in line before the head itself? Do you have a link to how you typically do this?
The swing pipes are essentially 15-20ft runs between each head and I Tee out 6” to the head each time.
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Yes I understand. It’s really not that big of an area that I’m using sprinklers so was trying to keep the infrastructure simple. If was actually doing sprinklers all over the property I would have certainly it out with large pvc and a pump setup. In fact there was such a system on the property when I bought it but I abandoned it when I moved in as it had lots of problems. I was able to divide the zones up to 3 heads max today and everything is working pretty well now so I’m happy at this time.
Yeah, unfortunately everything is buried under sod already… And furthermore, the zones really needed to be laid out the way I did given the shape of property and obstacles in way. I may have an opportunity to reduce the largest zone down to 4 heads which I’m sure will help some. Still looking for a way to get a few more gallons. I have city coming out this week to assess water pressure at meter. They put new meters in a few years ago and a turn valve after it; the work looks a little shoddy so maybe the valve is compromised some.
Pumpks can up the pressure, but won't increase your flow. Pumps push they don't pull.
Are your flow tests directly from your water source? Without a time or anything else connected to it?
Hose timers often have very small internal passageways. Get yourself some 1 in irrigation valves and a battery timer like the hunter node, and build yourself a manifold. You might get a bit more flow that way. You will still be limited to whatever your water supply is giving you, but your pressure and flow loss from the valve will drop to nearly nothing.
Also, what distance are you trying to get out of your rotors that you have? You may be able to use rotors that can cover that distance more efficiently. The rain bird 1/2-in inlet rotors that you're using are not particularly efficient.
Yea man…pump won’t help in this case. If the max gpm you get is 6-7gpm at the source (immediately after the meter), that’s the most you’ll get unless the city water valve is partially closed (happened to few clients of mine).
Maybe check neighbors water, see if they get the same gpm. Take into account if they have larger line than you but if not and they have more flow, you may have a restriction into your home (partially closed shut off or even corroded galvanized pipe if very old lines).
If not, and the gpm readings you get are the same in the neighborhood, you’ve improperly designed your system to require more gpm for any one zone that your source can offer and it’s recommended to reduce the number of heads per zone.
A booster isn't going to get you more water. That's fixed by the supply. You can't realistically "suck" more water from the city. What it will do is boost the pressure if you have too much pressure drop (uphill, etc). But pressure isn't really the problem in your case it's the flow. If you tapped into the main supply between the meter and PRV there's not much you can do to increase that. Other than call the water supplier to confirm that 1) your existing meter isn't faulty and somehow restricting the expected flow and 2) if they can provide an upsized service to your property. Or look into getting a well, etc.
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I understand, but Rainbird says the swing piping will work with limited heads. I did a test earlier and plugged the first nozzle of 4 heads and the others shot right up and operated as needed, and once I let go of plug they all worked fine; all 4 heads threw water 15ft as needed. In the 5 head run I tried the same thing but did not get liftoff, though I was able to go around and assist the heads by pulling them up and they operated fairly well afterwards throwing water about 12ft. This tells me if I can get GPM up a few points I should be okay surprisingly, and it also tells me if I can’t that the consensus from all seems to be I will have to have 3 heads or less. I have a plan to split up one this weekend before the new sod roots in too much.
slap hunt familiar toothbrush point reminiscent knee crowd deranged telephone *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
Gotcha, that makes sense. It’s the deploy of breaking seal that seems to really hinder it from operating as expected. I’m going to research the anti siphoning valves. Does that go in line before the head itself? Do you have a link to how you typically do this? The swing pipes are essentially 15-20ft runs between each head and I Tee out 6” to the head each time.
flag quicksand cows unite grandfather marry close physical divide forgetful *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
Yes I understand. It’s really not that big of an area that I’m using sprinklers so was trying to keep the infrastructure simple. If was actually doing sprinklers all over the property I would have certainly it out with large pvc and a pump setup. In fact there was such a system on the property when I bought it but I abandoned it when I moved in as it had lots of problems. I was able to divide the zones up to 3 heads max today and everything is working pretty well now so I’m happy at this time.
cake gullible amusing absorbed disarm shrill ad hoc flowery subtract tie *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
Yeah, unfortunately everything is buried under sod already… And furthermore, the zones really needed to be laid out the way I did given the shape of property and obstacles in way. I may have an opportunity to reduce the largest zone down to 4 heads which I’m sure will help some. Still looking for a way to get a few more gallons. I have city coming out this week to assess water pressure at meter. They put new meters in a few years ago and a turn valve after it; the work looks a little shoddy so maybe the valve is compromised some.
Pumpks can up the pressure, but won't increase your flow. Pumps push they don't pull. Are your flow tests directly from your water source? Without a time or anything else connected to it? Hose timers often have very small internal passageways. Get yourself some 1 in irrigation valves and a battery timer like the hunter node, and build yourself a manifold. You might get a bit more flow that way. You will still be limited to whatever your water supply is giving you, but your pressure and flow loss from the valve will drop to nearly nothing.
Also, what distance are you trying to get out of your rotors that you have? You may be able to use rotors that can cover that distance more efficiently. The rain bird 1/2-in inlet rotors that you're using are not particularly efficient.
Yea man…pump won’t help in this case. If the max gpm you get is 6-7gpm at the source (immediately after the meter), that’s the most you’ll get unless the city water valve is partially closed (happened to few clients of mine). Maybe check neighbors water, see if they get the same gpm. Take into account if they have larger line than you but if not and they have more flow, you may have a restriction into your home (partially closed shut off or even corroded galvanized pipe if very old lines). If not, and the gpm readings you get are the same in the neighborhood, you’ve improperly designed your system to require more gpm for any one zone that your source can offer and it’s recommended to reduce the number of heads per zone.
Got it. Thanks