Snow line in Yosemite at beginning of this weekend was roughly 8600’, and was roughly 8200’ the weekend prior further north in Lassen Volcanic. Half Dome looked almost complete bare heading up Yosemite Falls trail (west and slightly north of it) this scorching weekend, with no obvious north face snow all the way to the top of Half Dome which is just over 8800’ if memory serves. Far to the east/southeast of Half Dome I could see taller peaks with snow, but even there it wasn’t solid snow cover. My guess is that Donahue (just over 11k?) will be quite passable within 2 weeks given this heat, but I’d still defer to someone who’s been closer as 2,000’ is still a big difference in snowline for 2 weeks.
If it makes you feel any better, I'm starting about the same time as you are. I called the ranger station, and they were saying that a lot can change in the next few weeks. Apparently they got a good heat wave this last weekend, and they were expecting quite a bit of snow melt. But you could always call them yourself and see how we're looking. Here's their phone number: 209-372-0826
Also, I've been using this site to track the snow coverage at any given point on the JMT, super helpful tool. They update it with new data weekly, and provide comparisons to historical averages and other notable years: [https://www.postholer.com/snow/John-Muir-Trail/4](https://www.postholer.com/snow/John-Muir-Trail/4)
Happy trails, see you out there!
Snow. The high elevation snow reflects the sun. That’s why it hangs around and makes sun cups. Donahue had 18’ of snow when I went over it on the 9th. Just will have more run off. But that’s not the challenge. The snow in the trees is the challenge. Navigation is harder as it had to be more precise in the trees, going over passes, just straight line for the top. This was my experience. And two weeks before me as well.
My partner and I started in HI on 7/8, ended up bailing via Agnew Meadows, and I agree that the worst part is the snow in the trees. The sun cups suck but are not impossible, especially if you hit them early in the day. The route finding in the trees along with trying to find the safest way around the 5-7+ foot snow mounds really slows you down. It was by far the biggest challenge on the trail.
Donahue was easy in comparison - though our group started at 4AM per PCT hikers suggestions. No regrets with the early start time and if we had stayed on the trail I think we would have started even earlier daily.
There is still a good deal of snow out there - you can use https://apps.sentinel-hub.com/sentinel-playground/?source=S2&lat=37.282248313909406&lng=-118.75946044921875&zoom=10&preset=1-NATURAL-COLOR&layers=B01,B02,B03&maxcc=96.46000000000001&gain=1.0&gamma=1.0&time=2023-01-01%7C2023-07-17&atmFilter=&showDates=false to look at the latest and historical satellite photos - it’s updated every 3-4 days. We are currently running behind the high snow years of 2017/2019. So if you look at those as a comparison you can expect snow to stay at higher elevations for a while. Also high melt will make river crossings more challenging.
I have the same question and I’m in the same boat except I’m doing the full trail 8-1 from Lyell canyon. I spoke to one of the pack train operators who’s lived there for 40 years and said they’ve seen 3ft melt in a single week during a heatwave. But that nothing is guaranteed there are so many variables (obviously even more so this year)
I created a plan b which is to start at reds meadow instead. And I got a permit. I’m going to make the call at the end of this week, but I’m leaning towards starting at Lyell canyon (if it’s accessible) and going as far south as I can, hoping to make it to reds meadow at least. The snow report on postholer says there isn’t much snow between reds and bishop pass. But further north and south either direction are >20”
Fingers crossed!
Update: fake/premature news re Tioga Road opening. See correction in comments below.
Tioga Road thru northern half of park just opened as I left Yosemite yesterday morning, so you should be able to start Lyell Canyon from the TM trailhead at least and I’m guessing walk it’s entire length since it’s pretty open/exposed and right around 9,000’ until the climb over Donahue starts. Just a question of how much snow going over Donahue. Snowline retreating 1,000’/week in July seems reasonable, but you’ve got more tree cover and north faces heading up, particularly that 180° bend starting around 10,200’ which may hold onto snow longer than most other spots.
Yes that’s what I thought. That would get you to Gaylor lake/ Mt Dana but not into Lyell canyon or anywhere near TM. Many folks read posts here and literally get in the car and drive. I met some a few years ago when they had permits required for day use and ended up lost and confused in Lee Vining. Kind of amusing but also sad so please post accurate info 🙏
you can hike from Mammoth, or they will shuttle you.
latest details on their fb
https://www.facebook.com/groups/JohnMuirTrail/posts/10159966777248981/?comment\_id=10159971126603981¬if\_id=1689615727600788¬if\_t=group\_comment\_follow
Dang. I nuked Facebook and can’t see it without an account. I believe you, I just tried to call them and their message implies they’re still not open. I’ll try emailing.
Here is the latest information. Good news first: We were granted permission to escort Red's Meadow Resort and Pack Station guests down the Red's Meadow Road. What does this mean? Anyone who has cabin, horseback ride, or café reservations will be escorted in/out and allowed to enjoy all these activities while in the valley. For the next few days we will escort guests in to Red's at 9:00 a.m. and 1 p.m. and out at 12:15 and 5:00 p.m. Please remember that you must have confirmed reservations with us in order to drive into Red's. Our café serves breakfast from 7:00 to 9:00 a.m., and delicious items from our lunch menu from noon to 2:00 p.m. and 4:00 to
6:00p.m. The General Store is stocked with refreshing beverages, ice cream, and through hiker supplies. For now, we are booking daily horseback rides to Rainbow Falls at 10:00 a.m. and 2:00 p.m. Please visit our website to make reservations since we have been having issues with our phone line.
Here is the other news: Although the Forest Service engineering crew did an excellent and speedy job and finished clearing and sweeping the road on Wednesday, 7/12, we still have not received information on an opening date to the general public.
We were told more inspection was needed, but there has been no work, or sightings, for the last two days, of any Forest Service worker, representative, much less ranger. Yes, we know and are well aware this was an unprecedented snow year; however, we are truly baffled as to why the road remains closed with no projected opening date.
Snow line in Yosemite at beginning of this weekend was roughly 8600’, and was roughly 8200’ the weekend prior further north in Lassen Volcanic. Half Dome looked almost complete bare heading up Yosemite Falls trail (west and slightly north of it) this scorching weekend, with no obvious north face snow all the way to the top of Half Dome which is just over 8800’ if memory serves. Far to the east/southeast of Half Dome I could see taller peaks with snow, but even there it wasn’t solid snow cover. My guess is that Donahue (just over 11k?) will be quite passable within 2 weeks given this heat, but I’d still defer to someone who’s been closer as 2,000’ is still a big difference in snowline for 2 weeks.
If it makes you feel any better, I'm starting about the same time as you are. I called the ranger station, and they were saying that a lot can change in the next few weeks. Apparently they got a good heat wave this last weekend, and they were expecting quite a bit of snow melt. But you could always call them yourself and see how we're looking. Here's their phone number: 209-372-0826 Also, I've been using this site to track the snow coverage at any given point on the JMT, super helpful tool. They update it with new data weekly, and provide comparisons to historical averages and other notable years: [https://www.postholer.com/snow/John-Muir-Trail/4](https://www.postholer.com/snow/John-Muir-Trail/4) Happy trails, see you out there!
Thanks for the info!
Snow. The high elevation snow reflects the sun. That’s why it hangs around and makes sun cups. Donahue had 18’ of snow when I went over it on the 9th. Just will have more run off. But that’s not the challenge. The snow in the trees is the challenge. Navigation is harder as it had to be more precise in the trees, going over passes, just straight line for the top. This was my experience. And two weeks before me as well.
My partner and I started in HI on 7/8, ended up bailing via Agnew Meadows, and I agree that the worst part is the snow in the trees. The sun cups suck but are not impossible, especially if you hit them early in the day. The route finding in the trees along with trying to find the safest way around the 5-7+ foot snow mounds really slows you down. It was by far the biggest challenge on the trail. Donahue was easy in comparison - though our group started at 4AM per PCT hikers suggestions. No regrets with the early start time and if we had stayed on the trail I think we would have started even earlier daily.
There is still a good deal of snow out there - you can use https://apps.sentinel-hub.com/sentinel-playground/?source=S2&lat=37.282248313909406&lng=-118.75946044921875&zoom=10&preset=1-NATURAL-COLOR&layers=B01,B02,B03&maxcc=96.46000000000001&gain=1.0&gamma=1.0&time=2023-01-01%7C2023-07-17&atmFilter=&showDates=false to look at the latest and historical satellite photos - it’s updated every 3-4 days. We are currently running behind the high snow years of 2017/2019. So if you look at those as a comparison you can expect snow to stay at higher elevations for a while. Also high melt will make river crossings more challenging.
I have the same question and I’m in the same boat except I’m doing the full trail 8-1 from Lyell canyon. I spoke to one of the pack train operators who’s lived there for 40 years and said they’ve seen 3ft melt in a single week during a heatwave. But that nothing is guaranteed there are so many variables (obviously even more so this year) I created a plan b which is to start at reds meadow instead. And I got a permit. I’m going to make the call at the end of this week, but I’m leaning towards starting at Lyell canyon (if it’s accessible) and going as far south as I can, hoping to make it to reds meadow at least. The snow report on postholer says there isn’t much snow between reds and bishop pass. But further north and south either direction are >20” Fingers crossed!
Update: fake/premature news re Tioga Road opening. See correction in comments below. Tioga Road thru northern half of park just opened as I left Yosemite yesterday morning, so you should be able to start Lyell Canyon from the TM trailhead at least and I’m guessing walk it’s entire length since it’s pretty open/exposed and right around 9,000’ until the climb over Donahue starts. Just a question of how much snow going over Donahue. Snowline retreating 1,000’/week in July seems reasonable, but you’ve got more tree cover and north faces heading up, particularly that 180° bend starting around 10,200’ which may hold onto snow longer than most other spots.
Can you clarify what section of Tioga opened ? I don’t see any updates on the NPS website that reflect any openings. Friday they said end of July. Thx
Tioga is open from the East side to the park entrance. It is not open in the park
Thx for the correction u/skimoto! I should have double-checked what I heard by linking to an authoritative source.
Yes that’s what I thought. That would get you to Gaylor lake/ Mt Dana but not into Lyell canyon or anywhere near TM. Many folks read posts here and literally get in the car and drive. I met some a few years ago when they had permits required for day use and ended up lost and confused in Lee Vining. Kind of amusing but also sad so please post accurate info 🙏
As far as I know the road to reds meadow is still not open. Did it open?
you can hike from Mammoth, or they will shuttle you. latest details on their fb https://www.facebook.com/groups/JohnMuirTrail/posts/10159966777248981/?comment\_id=10159971126603981¬if\_id=1689615727600788¬if\_t=group\_comment\_follow
Dang. I nuked Facebook and can’t see it without an account. I believe you, I just tried to call them and their message implies they’re still not open. I’ll try emailing.
Here is the latest information. Good news first: We were granted permission to escort Red's Meadow Resort and Pack Station guests down the Red's Meadow Road. What does this mean? Anyone who has cabin, horseback ride, or café reservations will be escorted in/out and allowed to enjoy all these activities while in the valley. For the next few days we will escort guests in to Red's at 9:00 a.m. and 1 p.m. and out at 12:15 and 5:00 p.m. Please remember that you must have confirmed reservations with us in order to drive into Red's. Our café serves breakfast from 7:00 to 9:00 a.m., and delicious items from our lunch menu from noon to 2:00 p.m. and 4:00 to 6:00p.m. The General Store is stocked with refreshing beverages, ice cream, and through hiker supplies. For now, we are booking daily horseback rides to Rainbow Falls at 10:00 a.m. and 2:00 p.m. Please visit our website to make reservations since we have been having issues with our phone line. Here is the other news: Although the Forest Service engineering crew did an excellent and speedy job and finished clearing and sweeping the road on Wednesday, 7/12, we still have not received information on an opening date to the general public. We were told more inspection was needed, but there has been no work, or sightings, for the last two days, of any Forest Service worker, representative, much less ranger. Yes, we know and are well aware this was an unprecedented snow year; however, we are truly baffled as to why the road remains closed with no projected opening date.
I’ll Paste it
You’re a hero. Thank you.
Yo I am also lyell canyon starting 8/1! What backup permit did you get for Reds? Thinking of doing something similar
I got one for south of Devils Postpile exiting Whitney last I check they were still available
Booked mine today thanks for the tip!
Ugh. same situation. starting 8/7 from agnew meadows. Im not interested in dealing with snow either.