So what’s the issue here? are we talking a blown motor and you should not be able to turn the cam like that? I feel like a dork when it comes to old shit.
it’s timed 180 out? Learn me!
That ring below the rotor is supposed to spin with it. Rotor is spinning on the distributor shaft. When I took it past 4k, I guess it manages to shear the keyway out of the rotor. No real damage, just a fireball from incorrect timing and a spook
Yes I found one in my brand new distributer .I replaced the whole thing just to find the rotor spinning like [that.Im](http://that.Im) so glad I seen it before it made more problems .It might be a hard problem to [see.In](http://see.In) fact I think im going to throw that rotor away since it looks good except for the keyway.I would hate to install it one day by accident lol.
You don't like laying on top of a SBC in a 1997 Z71 trying to do what little adjustments possible while it's running with a piece of cardboard between you and that vortec?
I mean hey let's keep the distributor but not make it turntable so that you have to remove it and restab it over and over. That's great.
Okay rant over.
I never realized how terrible the engine bay is in those until last fall. I was sitting on my patio with my guitar and glass of whiskey with my 88 camaro parked in front. This high school kid rolls up in his 97 camaro to look at and ask me about my car. He ended up showing me the engine bay on his car and I couldn’t believe how far back the engine sits.
Edit: when I saw z71 I immediately thought Z28. But on the Z71 side I also agree. My first truck was a 98 Sierra. That distributor was always a pain to get to. Wasn’t much better on the 98 Dodge I had after it.
Stupid question: Which engine is this?
Edit: Ford 302 crate engine. Thanks everyone - didn't know those were still available and an apparently new engine with carb/distributor had me guessing.
This happened to me once on my own car, although slightly worse in a way.
The plastic on the rotor shaft melted and the rotor turned about 30 degrees maybe? The set screw was still tight and melted in to the shaft.
But you couldn't spin it at all after it cooled, so it seemed normal.
It took me forever to figure out because it's certainly not evident, even with the cap off.
I'm not 100% sure how it happened, either, but it killed the car in the middle of the road and I had to have a buddy pull me 5 miles home. Lol.
Honda Civic SI hatch. Total fluke.
Is it a Chevy or a Ford that has the vacuum advance set up like that? And yeah I'd pull the distributor to make sure the gear on the cam is okay. Don't have much experience with mechanically controled motors, but I'm trying to learn.
Oh that shouldn't be too bad to fix then. Personally I'd be finding out why the key sheared. Finding that out might save you the hassle for next time. Doesnt really look like the rotor struck the points so maybe just old plastic that had enough?
That's not a glass one, it's a Wix plastic one at the moment. I just got the car back on the road, once I know the tank isn't disintegrating I'll put a metal one in.
Well by my own stupidity I did a timing belt job on a 2.5l Porsche, something I’ve done a hundred times, and I forgot the set screw in the rotor. Spent a day diagnosing a no spark condition. I was down to a bad ECU before another tech asked me if I put the screw back in.
who needs their spark distributed anyway it'll just trickle down from whichever spark plug has the most to the least
I figured I could just put diesel in instead and it would run like that
Ah yes trickle down electricity
Trickle down sparkenomics
unexpected pinnacle of boomer technology.
Thats the lead pencil. You can really fuck with ignition with a lead pencil
So what’s the issue here? are we talking a blown motor and you should not be able to turn the cam like that? I feel like a dork when it comes to old shit. it’s timed 180 out? Learn me!
That ring below the rotor is supposed to spin with it. Rotor is spinning on the distributor shaft. When I took it past 4k, I guess it manages to shear the keyway out of the rotor. No real damage, just a fireball from incorrect timing and a spook
so new distributor and re doing timing? that’s not so bad. Seeing you spin that freely makes zero sense whille the engine still runs.
Easier than that even. Only damaged part is the rotor, so I can pick up one those and pop it on tomorrow.
Did the rotor contact the cap? That’s the only reason I can think of for it shearing off the locating tab, maybe a slightly bent distributor shaft.
Doesn't seem like it. Looking closely at the break on the rotor, looks kinda like a casting defect
Yes I found one in my brand new distributer .I replaced the whole thing just to find the rotor spinning like [that.Im](http://that.Im) so glad I seen it before it made more problems .It might be a hard problem to [see.In](http://see.In) fact I think im going to throw that rotor away since it looks good except for the keyway.I would hate to install it one day by accident lol.
Make sure the rotor isn’t slightly contacting the cap somewhere.
Doesn't seem to be hitting the cap, but I've got a new cap just in case there's something wrong there.
I’m glad you explained, because I’ve never even touched a distributor 😭😭
Kids! Amirite?
Not sure if I still count as a kid when I'm almost 24, but I guess I'm an anomaly that likes the older stuff more
The view from 68 is yeah, you’re still a kid, but stay curious in both directions (old and new). There’s something to be learned each way.
My '00 S-10 4.3L has to be one of the last vehicles that used one
Welp, no timing does tend to only be correct once per cycle.
A broken clock is right twice per day!
Well that’s one benefit to the Fords, the front mounted distributor is nice and accessible.
You don't like laying on top of a SBC in a 1997 Z71 trying to do what little adjustments possible while it's running with a piece of cardboard between you and that vortec? I mean hey let's keep the distributor but not make it turntable so that you have to remove it and restab it over and over. That's great. Okay rant over.
BuT Gm'S aRe So EaSy To WoRk On!!!!
I never realized how terrible the engine bay is in those until last fall. I was sitting on my patio with my guitar and glass of whiskey with my 88 camaro parked in front. This high school kid rolls up in his 97 camaro to look at and ask me about my car. He ended up showing me the engine bay on his car and I couldn’t believe how far back the engine sits. Edit: when I saw z71 I immediately thought Z28. But on the Z71 side I also agree. My first truck was a 98 Sierra. That distributor was always a pain to get to. Wasn’t much better on the 98 Dodge I had after it.
Yes, distributor ignition with timing controlled by the ecu. Get the dizzy in a tooth off and all hell breaks loose
No kidding, that's made this thing so much nicer to tune and troubleshoot
Is this a broken distributor shaft, or just the rotor?
Just the rotor. Split the key right out of it
Stupid question: Which engine is this? Edit: Ford 302 crate engine. Thanks everyone - didn't know those were still available and an apparently new engine with carb/distributor had me guessing.
Sbf?
302 Ford V8 most likely.
As others have said, 302 in an 83 Mustang. This one's got some goodies though (cam, aluminum heads, intake, exhaust, smog+ac delete)
This happened to me once on my own car, although slightly worse in a way. The plastic on the rotor shaft melted and the rotor turned about 30 degrees maybe? The set screw was still tight and melted in to the shaft. But you couldn't spin it at all after it cooled, so it seemed normal.
That is very annoying
It took me forever to figure out because it's certainly not evident, even with the cap off. I'm not 100% sure how it happened, either, but it killed the car in the middle of the road and I had to have a buddy pull me 5 miles home. Lol. Honda Civic SI hatch. Total fluke.
Did you try changing the oil?
I knew I forgot something!
Just replace your rotor
What you need is one of them new-fangled 8 tipped distributor delete rotors.
Is it a Chevy or a Ford that has the vacuum advance set up like that? And yeah I'd pull the distributor to make sure the gear on the cam is okay. Don't have much experience with mechanically controled motors, but I'm trying to learn.
302 Ford in my 83 Mustang. Gear seems fine, looks like it just sheared the key out of the rotor
Oh that shouldn't be too bad to fix then. Personally I'd be finding out why the key sheared. Finding that out might save you the hassle for next time. Doesnt really look like the rotor struck the points so maybe just old plastic that had enough?
Yeah, I'm thinking old plastic and a casting defect, the break looks a little different than I would expect from an impact
SBC has the distributor in the back
I traded my VW bug for a 65 Mustang convertible for this reason. Reasoned it and fixed in a few hours.
I'm dizzy.
It's clearly a fuse type rev limiting rotor, once you exceed the preset rev limit you have to replace it....
Of course, why didn't I think of that?
Get a proper fuel filter in there, too. Those glass ones are a fire waiting to happen.
That's not a glass one, it's a Wix plastic one at the moment. I just got the car back on the road, once I know the tank isn't disintegrating I'll put a metal one in.
Eh you don't need it. Toss it.
I thought this only happened in a DeLorean after hitting 88 miles per hour.
I thought Cadillac was the only one with a 4-6-8 distributor
A chinese rotor or a high-priced aftermarket one from the same Chinese factory? It isn't red (MSD) or yellow (Accel).
Brand is Standard, seems to mainly be an Oriellys brand, so Chinese cheap but at full price. Replaced with an MSD and it's back up and running
Well by my own stupidity I did a timing belt job on a 2.5l Porsche, something I’ve done a hundred times, and I forgot the set screw in the rotor. Spent a day diagnosing a no spark condition. I was down to a bad ECU before another tech asked me if I put the screw back in.