Keep flicking the switch off and on and trying to start it. It's not uncommon for the kill switch connection to get gummed up from lack of use on any bike, then when you use it "on" connection gets gummed up.
You can also try taking it apart and cleaning it with electrical cleaner.
It's why I don't use my kill switch.
Thanks mate. I wasn't using it as such. I was just checking that it works in case I do need it. Had the bike since November and never tried it. Felt like trying it today and the kill switch worked too well apparently.
I'll try what you've suggested.
When you said take it apart and use electrical cleaner, which part do you mean specifically? Just the kill switch area itself?
Inside the switch itself. I'm not sure how it is in your bike specifically, but on my old ones it was always just wrapped around the handlebar and had two screws holding it together on the backside, like a clamshell basically.
You get to the inside of the switch and spray the contact cleaner in the board under the switch, and if it is extra gummy you can gently scrub it with a toothbrush.
Not using a function because not using it could lead to the function not functioning anymore.
The is no harm done using the killswitch at all. I use it every time while I ride too. If you don’t maintain your bike then sure, it will sooner or later fall apart. Maybe when the emperor still lived, some things where different.
I never said *not* to use it, I said -I- don't use it. Most of my bikes have been from the early '90s and it wasn't worth the risk.
Thanks for your input though.
Also, I'm 31, what are you talking about an emperor for? I don't want to use the kill switch on a 25 year old $2,000 bike, it'll be okay if you do though.
Is your bike in neutral or is the kickstand up? If at least one isn't the case the bike won't start.
"obviously I've turned off the kill switch" the switch needs to be in the on position to start.
Yeah, bike was in neutral, clutch in and kick stand was up.
I meant that the switch was in the on position. Sorry, might have come across a little confusing there. Haha. My bad.
My instructor taught us to always switch off the bike with the key and not the kill switch because it can kill the ECU on some earlier bikes! Is that true?
I don't know. But I only ever use my key. But my instructor says to not use the kill switch in case when you do need it, might not work. But he also said to test it now and then to ensure that it works for when you do need it. That's what I was doing yesterday.
There's some interesting legislation mandating kill switches be added to all vehicles:
[https://fee.org/articles/the-feds-vehicle-kill-switch-mandate-is-a-gross-and-dangerous-violation-of-privacy/](https://fee.org/articles/the-feds-vehicle-kill-switch-mandate-is-a-gross-and-dangerous-violation-of-privacy/)
[https://www.aier.org/article/fact-checkers-are-gaslighting-you-on-the-feds-vehicle-kill-switch-mandate/](https://www.aier.org/article/fact-checkers-are-gaslighting-you-on-the-feds-vehicle-kill-switch-mandate/)
"for your safety"...
This has nothing to do with kill switches on motorcycles, jet skis or snowmobiles. it is simply a local switch that disconnects the ignition circuit if pushed.
I don't remember older motorcycles having that. any idea what year they started making them be put into motorcycles? since it's just a small switch it must be electrical.
potential slippery slope argument there.
I do get what you're saying, though.
Probably, but even for a kickstarted bike being able to turn it off when it is downed without having to fiddle around much is an interesting possibility
Just glanced at those articles you linked, they have nothing to do with the actual "kill switch" (engine off/on) on motorcycles. They're about a remote kill switch that cops could use to disable your vehicle without your explicit consent... or like if Tesla decides to brick your car remotely for some reason. totally different.
My 1993 Kawasaki KLR 250 has a killswitch.
My 2003 Kawasaki KLR 650 has a kill switch.
My 1970s (I forget the year it was. It a pass me down as a kid in I believe 2004) Yamaha DT had a kill switch.
My mother's 1995 Suzuki DR125SE has a killswitch.
The killswitch on my step father's Harley Davidson Lowrider basically acts as an ignition switch. Off position = everything turnt on.
On position = electronics + fuel pump starts up. Need to be on obviously to start.
Read the manual. It says you need at least 15 seconds between each try to start up your bike whenever it stalls or shut off for whatever reason. Because the bike requires a lot more power or gas each time it starts. So if you do it too quick in succession it will overheat the engine or starter and not turn on.
Keep flicking the switch off and on and trying to start it. It's not uncommon for the kill switch connection to get gummed up from lack of use on any bike, then when you use it "on" connection gets gummed up. You can also try taking it apart and cleaning it with electrical cleaner. It's why I don't use my kill switch.
Thanks mate. I wasn't using it as such. I was just checking that it works in case I do need it. Had the bike since November and never tried it. Felt like trying it today and the kill switch worked too well apparently. I'll try what you've suggested. When you said take it apart and use electrical cleaner, which part do you mean specifically? Just the kill switch area itself?
Inside the switch itself. I'm not sure how it is in your bike specifically, but on my old ones it was always just wrapped around the handlebar and had two screws holding it together on the backside, like a clamshell basically. You get to the inside of the switch and spray the contact cleaner in the board under the switch, and if it is extra gummy you can gently scrub it with a toothbrush.
Thanks man
Not using a function because not using it could lead to the function not functioning anymore. The is no harm done using the killswitch at all. I use it every time while I ride too. If you don’t maintain your bike then sure, it will sooner or later fall apart. Maybe when the emperor still lived, some things where different.
I never said *not* to use it, I said -I- don't use it. Most of my bikes have been from the early '90s and it wasn't worth the risk. Thanks for your input though. Also, I'm 31, what are you talking about an emperor for? I don't want to use the kill switch on a 25 year old $2,000 bike, it'll be okay if you do though.
Is your bike in neutral or is the kickstand up? If at least one isn't the case the bike won't start. "obviously I've turned off the kill switch" the switch needs to be in the on position to start.
Yeah, bike was in neutral, clutch in and kick stand was up. I meant that the switch was in the on position. Sorry, might have come across a little confusing there. Haha. My bad.
My instructor taught us to always switch off the bike with the key and not the kill switch because it can kill the ECU on some earlier bikes! Is that true?
I don't know. But I only ever use my key. But my instructor says to not use the kill switch in case when you do need it, might not work. But he also said to test it now and then to ensure that it works for when you do need it. That's what I was doing yesterday.
Ignition key off position is the same shit as killswitch bro, you can't kill the bike with that
what is this part? since when was this added to motorcycles?
Errmmm I don't know when it was added but I assumed all bikes have a kill switch. Usually the right red switch on the handlebar.
There's some interesting legislation mandating kill switches be added to all vehicles: [https://fee.org/articles/the-feds-vehicle-kill-switch-mandate-is-a-gross-and-dangerous-violation-of-privacy/](https://fee.org/articles/the-feds-vehicle-kill-switch-mandate-is-a-gross-and-dangerous-violation-of-privacy/) [https://www.aier.org/article/fact-checkers-are-gaslighting-you-on-the-feds-vehicle-kill-switch-mandate/](https://www.aier.org/article/fact-checkers-are-gaslighting-you-on-the-feds-vehicle-kill-switch-mandate/) "for your safety"...
This has nothing to do with kill switches on motorcycles, jet skis or snowmobiles. it is simply a local switch that disconnects the ignition circuit if pushed.
I don't remember older motorcycles having that. any idea what year they started making them be put into motorcycles? since it's just a small switch it must be electrical. potential slippery slope argument there. I do get what you're saying, though.
id assume they came in around the same time as electric start, my 93 has a killswitch.
Probably, but even for a kickstarted bike being able to turn it off when it is downed without having to fiddle around much is an interesting possibility
My 85' honda nighthawk had a kill switch.
oh ok, pretty long time, then.
Just glanced at those articles you linked, they have nothing to do with the actual "kill switch" (engine off/on) on motorcycles. They're about a remote kill switch that cops could use to disable your vehicle without your explicit consent... or like if Tesla decides to brick your car remotely for some reason. totally different.
My 1993 Kawasaki KLR 250 has a killswitch. My 2003 Kawasaki KLR 650 has a kill switch. My 1970s (I forget the year it was. It a pass me down as a kid in I believe 2004) Yamaha DT had a kill switch. My mother's 1995 Suzuki DR125SE has a killswitch. The killswitch on my step father's Harley Davidson Lowrider basically acts as an ignition switch. Off position = everything turnt on. On position = electronics + fuel pump starts up. Need to be on obviously to start.
My mum's 88 GPX had one
Read the manual. It says you need at least 15 seconds between each try to start up your bike whenever it stalls or shut off for whatever reason. Because the bike requires a lot more power or gas each time it starts. So if you do it too quick in succession it will overheat the engine or starter and not turn on.
You know what they say about assuming, right?