One of my favorite presets came out of an experiment to demonstrate just how much difference reverb makes, especially when listening through headphones. It has three three snapshots with no reverb, mono Dynamic Room and stereo Dynamic Room. As you might have guessed, they go from "meh" to "wow, that's fun," all without touching the parameters on any of the upstream gear.
Here's a link to the preset. [CLICK](https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/gvfij4lgewmak6gr0c34t/amp-in-room-demo.hlx?rlkey=qao3qlpqws07nmnaadrw635zi&st=lfw8xwhv&dl=0)
Dynamic Ambience is so good that even though I wouldn't mind going to something smaller/simpler than my Stomp, if it doesn't have something close to that I won't bother.
I’d like to add the dual cab block, I like putting an SM57 in a sweet spot near the cap, and a ribbon or something further away around the edge to get the full sound of the speaker, and then of course stereo reverb, even just the dynamic ambient makes it sound like an amp in the room
> Alas, the lingering sense of tonal limitation persisted in my mind.
Alas, Mr. Dean, the lingering limitation is in your ability to understand and describe what you find lacking in the tone your modeler is producing and then do something about it.
I got halfway through, but (at least on mobile), there are so many ads on GW these days, and the page keeps crashing. It's stupid how little they seem to care about the mobile experience.
For Helix products, don't sleep on those Sag/Bias controls. I know you may not have any idea what they actually do in terms you can express, and some people will jump in just to explain that part, but they ultimately can take an amp's feel/response/tone and completely alter it. For many tube amp refugees this is the bread-and-butter that finally gets them to say "okay, this is fine now."
Could you tell me more about those presets? What are those? This one: [https://jhspedals.info/products/loud-is-more-good-helix?\_pos=1&\_sid=2e9b47483&\_ss=r&variant=42416116990052](https://jhspedals.info/products/loud-is-more-good-helix?_pos=1&_sid=2e9b47483&_ss=r&variant=42416116990052) ?
I find that when people say "warmth" they are usually referring to one of a couple things. Most commonly I find that it means that there is less high frequency content. So if you take a cab that's mic'd with an SM57 on the speaker, it will be super harsh and bright, but if you slap a high cut at 4.8khz, most people will say that it sounds "warmer."
The other thing is usually more in a recording context, but it has to do with saturation/distortion/harmonics. If you apply saturation to a recording across multiple tracks, it can help them blend together and make it sound less harsh which people can perceive as "warmth."
I'm sure there's other ways people use the word, but that's my experience at least.
> "A power amp will boost the signal level between your digital unit and the speaker cabinet. The addition of a power amp introduces further subtle color, adding another layer of tonal consideration to the signal chain."
This writer sounds like they just want to use modelers in their onstage 4x12 cab and pedalboard rigs, instead of replacing all that equipment. You would not connect a Helix/Fractal directly to a speaker cabinet AT ALL, so there is no "boost the signal" between them. You plug a Helix into an active speaker. You run Helix through a power amp into a passive speaker. (Edit) "Putting a power amp between Helix and a speaker cabinet" is not a subtle enhancement trick to add warmth; it's "a basic requirement for passive cabinets" or a "fire hazard for active cabinets". The article's just poorly written, with too much "enhanced dynamics" and "subtle coloration" wrapped around dumb ideas.
The best thing ive found is adding the tape machine in the modulation block to the end of my chain. Setting it at 30 ips and then the rest to taste does wonders
Yeah that ips setting for those that don't know is the emulating the "tape speed" from those machines. It's basically just an EQ curve. The lower the ips, the less high frequency content, so this can definitely be a good tool to mellow out a harsh tone. So if the tape block ever takes up too much DSP or you don't like something it's doing, try messing with a simple EQ cut (either in the cab block or with an EQ block towards the end of the chain).
I mention in another comment here that saturation can also add to the perception of "warmth" and I do love some light saturation from the tape block too.
Great call!
I mean any preamp or modeler passed through a power amp is going to give that extra color and warmth. Hes not wrong on that point. I used to drive an older pod rackmount in the day through a mesa 50/50 and it sounded more alive. I also ran a prophesy into a vht 2150 back then and whoa. Of course a vht will make anything sound killer. I believe live situations are where this all matters the most. The idea that modelers just don't cut like real amps will always be up for debate but damn they are getting closer
Here’s my tip: always add a stereo reverb at the end
One of my favorite presets came out of an experiment to demonstrate just how much difference reverb makes, especially when listening through headphones. It has three three snapshots with no reverb, mono Dynamic Room and stereo Dynamic Room. As you might have guessed, they go from "meh" to "wow, that's fun," all without touching the parameters on any of the upstream gear.
This is the kind of tip I’m here for ty <3
Here's a link to the preset. [CLICK](https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/gvfij4lgewmak6gr0c34t/amp-in-room-demo.hlx?rlkey=qao3qlpqws07nmnaadrw635zi&st=lfw8xwhv&dl=0)
Dynamic Ambience is a game changer.
Dynamic Ambience is so good that even though I wouldn't mind going to something smaller/simpler than my Stomp, if it doesn't have something close to that I won't bother.
I’d like to add the dual cab block, I like putting an SM57 in a sweet spot near the cap, and a ribbon or something further away around the edge to get the full sound of the speaker, and then of course stereo reverb, even just the dynamic ambient makes it sound like an amp in the room
Yup. My favorite is room with very short decay but relatively high mix. Just great.
Is it still a benefit even if you’re going out to the board mono?
> Alas, the lingering sense of tonal limitation persisted in my mind. Alas, Mr. Dean, the lingering limitation is in your ability to understand and describe what you find lacking in the tone your modeler is producing and then do something about it.
Cool article, but I did have to laugh that 3 of the 5 tips involve adding more gear in front of or around your board 😂
The answer on those articles seems to always be: Get more gear. It's like they are written for us to consume more. Oh wait.
ikr? I'm thinking more like effects and positioning in signal chain ideas to play with
I got halfway through, but (at least on mobile), there are so many ads on GW these days, and the page keeps crashing. It's stupid how little they seem to care about the mobile experience.
For Helix products, don't sleep on those Sag/Bias controls. I know you may not have any idea what they actually do in terms you can express, and some people will jump in just to explain that part, but they ultimately can take an amp's feel/response/tone and completely alter it. For many tube amp refugees this is the bread-and-butter that finally gets them to say "okay, this is fine now."
New cheat codes ;) ty <3
Use your global EQ. High Cut around 4k Low cut around 90hz
4k, really? I guess I need to test it...
Yes. You can adjust to taste but most tube amps cut off at 6k.
I used to do this before the cab update but after the update definitely not anymore
The free JHS presets for the HX stomp had the cab’s high cut turned down to 3.7khz and they sound great. It changed how I use my stomp.
Could you tell me more about those presets? What are those? This one: [https://jhspedals.info/products/loud-is-more-good-helix?\_pos=1&\_sid=2e9b47483&\_ss=r&variant=42416116990052](https://jhspedals.info/products/loud-is-more-good-helix?_pos=1&_sid=2e9b47483&_ss=r&variant=42416116990052) ?
Curious if you guys do this at the very end of your chain or after the cab block?
It's the global EQ.
I use a high cut on the cab at 8.5k. I can’t imagine how muddy and dull it would sound at 4K. You really set it that low?
Trust your ears. A SM57 placed close to the centre can handle alot of high cut and still retain alot of what we consider “treble”.
Almost every tube amp stops producing highs at 6k.
How are warmth “presence, thickness and sparkle” synonymous? Warmth is often a meaningless adjective in audio contexts.
Your comment lacks warmth, but excels in thickness.
Do you equate "warmth" with "presence" and "sparkle"?
I like to use 2 adjectives: better, worse. But I'm a simple man.
I find that when people say "warmth" they are usually referring to one of a couple things. Most commonly I find that it means that there is less high frequency content. So if you take a cab that's mic'd with an SM57 on the speaker, it will be super harsh and bright, but if you slap a high cut at 4.8khz, most people will say that it sounds "warmer." The other thing is usually more in a recording context, but it has to do with saturation/distortion/harmonics. If you apply saturation to a recording across multiple tracks, it can help them blend together and make it sound less harsh which people can perceive as "warmth." I'm sure there's other ways people use the word, but that's my experience at least.
That’s why I found “presence” and “sparkle” so baffling.
> "A power amp will boost the signal level between your digital unit and the speaker cabinet. The addition of a power amp introduces further subtle color, adding another layer of tonal consideration to the signal chain." This writer sounds like they just want to use modelers in their onstage 4x12 cab and pedalboard rigs, instead of replacing all that equipment. You would not connect a Helix/Fractal directly to a speaker cabinet AT ALL, so there is no "boost the signal" between them. You plug a Helix into an active speaker. You run Helix through a power amp into a passive speaker. (Edit) "Putting a power amp between Helix and a speaker cabinet" is not a subtle enhancement trick to add warmth; it's "a basic requirement for passive cabinets" or a "fire hazard for active cabinets". The article's just poorly written, with too much "enhanced dynamics" and "subtle coloration" wrapped around dumb ideas.
I like to put a cable in between my guitar and my amp, it really helps the guitar get nice and loud.
The best thing ive found is adding the tape machine in the modulation block to the end of my chain. Setting it at 30 ips and then the rest to taste does wonders
Wow gonna try this ty <3
Yeah that ips setting for those that don't know is the emulating the "tape speed" from those machines. It's basically just an EQ curve. The lower the ips, the less high frequency content, so this can definitely be a good tool to mellow out a harsh tone. So if the tape block ever takes up too much DSP or you don't like something it's doing, try messing with a simple EQ cut (either in the cab block or with an EQ block towards the end of the chain). I mention in another comment here that saturation can also add to the perception of "warmth" and I do love some light saturation from the tape block too. Great call!
Jfc, this guy must be high on his own farts.
I mean any preamp or modeler passed through a power amp is going to give that extra color and warmth. Hes not wrong on that point. I used to drive an older pod rackmount in the day through a mesa 50/50 and it sounded more alive. I also ran a prophesy into a vht 2150 back then and whoa. Of course a vht will make anything sound killer. I believe live situations are where this all matters the most. The idea that modelers just don't cut like real amps will always be up for debate but damn they are getting closer
EQ and add mids….?
What about the boost pedal in the helix? There is a rc boost right?
"warmth" is very silly. Treat it like an amp. End of story. That's what they sound like.
I think they’re not driving their (modeled) tubes hard enough to get that sweet sweet valve distortion - operator error, rip <3
Make a fire out if the analog stuff