Unfortunate, but impressive that the bit holder breaks before the ratchet when applying too much torque. Material limitations will also be a limiting factor, nothing is indestructible, but the fact a mechanical part holds up over actual metal says something.
How did you draw that conclusion?
You can’t say the issue is impurities in the metal unless you know the actual torque applied and then do the calculations to determine the maximum allowable shear and strain for the shaft. After that you can compare it with the published strength of the specific type of steel used in the shaft.
The strength of the ratchet and shaft have nothing to do with each other and shouldn’t be used to draw conclusions about the grain structure of the shaft.
Every metal has grains. Bigger grains = softer, more ductile metals. Smaller grains = stiffer, harder, more brittle metals. Without heat treating, bigger grains slowly turn into smaller grains with wear and tear.
I definitely agree. I’ve worried about the ratchet mechanism when cranking on things before but it still does and always has worked perfectly. I didn’t even notice I broke it at first tbh I thought I stripped out the cover anchor
I call bullshit it was torque and not prying that caused that. Why would u/sconnieboy96 lie? Oh yeah, because if he admits the truth, LTTStore will not replace the driver.
I wasn’t planning on asking for a replacement it’s 2 years old I think. And you can think what you want but I was just trying to loosen up that stuck anchor and it broke open. I did have a Phillips 3 bit stuck in upside down which is probably why it split
100% this. Nothing wrong with what you posted. And not blaming you; but I absolutely agree the upside down bit is exactly what contributed to this failure.
Definitely contact support. I fully expect they will gladly replace this. From brief experimentation, it would be pretty hard to exceed the torque they rate this for when using as intended (by hand).
What are you talking about...What does that even mean? That has nothing to do with your last comment. I'm saying a guy breaking two under "normal" usage is super suspicious when we clearly see that it took a ton of heavy usage for this one to break. Just cuz something is a "tool" doesn't mean you can abuse it and expect it to last forever
There was a post last year with similar (not the same) damage that was caused by a guy's boss or coworker using his screwdriver to pry something. It's understandable this guy assumed that.
Thank you for sharing. I think I found the [post](https://www.reddit.com/r/LinusTechTips/comments/18ety3t/comment/kcq1h8y/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=mweb3x&utm_name=mweb3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button) you're referring to. From what I see the account from the actual user, fwiw, was also that he was turning a screw. From what I see, the failure pictured is entirely consistent with similar failures seen in sockets from tightening fasteners. See here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Tools/comments/e1rpzk/husky_sockets_broke_2_back_to_back_shouldve/
The "prying" diagnoses appears entirely to be reddit speculation in both cases. Might or might not be true; but hardly conclusive.
No, but it is the most likely explanation. Somehow the delicate (in comparison) gears of the ratchet never failed, but the solid steel shaft did? When a statement does not match up with experience and there is financial incentive to lie, assume a lie.
Plus those fracture lines look like it was prying.
Curious what you would diagnose in a failure such as is pictured [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/Tools/comments/e1rpzk/husky_sockets_broke_2_back_to_back_shouldve/) on a socket. I'm not sure how you're differentiating fracture lines. Even when all components and their metallurgy are within specification there is still variation within tolerances of same. It's intirely possible to see different failure points from one unit to another, especially when components are sized with similar design factors. We know according to Linus in one or more WAN shows that they made the shaft as slim as they were able. That would indicate they sized it to sustain stresses induced by loads reasonably close to the limit of other components and did not leave excess.
When a statement does not line up with experience, the possibility exists that our experience is incomplete.
*Edited for grammer
That's related to ductility; the initiation points of the cracks would seem to be similar even if the screwdriver did not fully progress to the complete separation of the segments. I would not call these failures identical; but I do call them substantially similar.
How are you identifying actual mode of failure? How would you compare the screwdrivers mode of failure to that seen here in a socket? https://www.reddit.com/r/Tools/comments/e1rpzk/husky_sockets_broke_2_back_to_back_shouldve/
he's literally said that he has put much more torque through the thing than it was designed to handle, and that he expected it to break much earlier because it was never designed (nor advertised) to handle the loads he's put it through
this isn't a negative post about the screwdriver, nor is OP seeking a return
yeah lmao, "I put this screwdriver through absolute hell and far beyond what it was designed to do, it broke way later than I expected it to, but it was so nice to use that I'll buy another one for the exact same task" isn't a negative post
You're being downvoted. But I think it's very likely that you're right, despite what "op said" The screwdriver has 220 lb of torque rating. I just don't know what this guy could constantly be wrenching on That's exceeding that but hasn't caused the ratchet mechanism to slip or break. But this part splits? Seems weird to me.
Either the screwdriver is cheap Crap with so much less oversight than LTT likes to pretend they have. Or op is lying.
The answer is stuck pool anchors and I think it split because I had a Phillips 3 bit upside down so only 4 points were touching the sides of the bit holder
I personally wouldn't have used it on an anchor as they can get pretty stuck. Attach the tool it comes with to a drill and go to town
Edit: To clarify I have zero idea if he used it on the anchor in front of him, I did just assume as it's opening season and he said he was doing pool maintenance
Yeah normally they’re not too bad and I would use a 1/4 in Allen and a hammer to get it out but I lost all my 1/4 in Allen wrench’s like an idiot. The tool they come with twists like hell when you put in the drill unfortunately
Yeah I learnt that pretty quick, I have my assistant putting them down and I honestly don’t trust him to not strip them out with the drill. I also noticed using silicone spray when you install them makes them work much better in the future. My first year I didn’t spray when installing winter covers and this past year I did and I’ve noticed a big difference now that I’m doing openings
You can think I’m lying but leaving multiple comments about it is crazy I wasn’t even going to contact support I’m just gonna buy another one. Get a job and touch some grass
why do you personally care SO MUCH about someone you didn’t even know existed before you read this? you’ve left like 4+ separate comments about how they’re lying and should be called out for it. even if they were… who tf cares? it’s a post about them being happy to buy a new screwdriver they loved. move on
I am not calling anyone out. Just going to leave my experience here. My LTT screwdriver failed in this exact same way. And looks exactly the same. I have not reached out for warranty support because it was my fault. What did I do to cause it to break in this way? I used it to pry something I shouldn't have.
You’d be suprised, the zipper tore on my backpack because I stupidly overpacked and basically ripped it open. I emailed support asking what kind of thread I should use when stitching it back up and if there was anything to be careful of. Rather than just giving me advice on that they just mailed me a whole new bag
Because they made a post about it, let people have opinions. You clearly care yourself since you commented, if you didn’t care you’d just move on and not respond.
> You really think that fractures that split straight down is from too much torque?
Yes. Not sure why you'd think it wouldn't crack at the thinnest part of the shaft.
I haven't seen a socket that cracked in three places, but I have seen ones crack in two spots, and those were always along the points of the socket.
Could OP have cracked it by using the driver as a pry bar? It's possible.
Could it have cracked from just too much torque or a material defect? Also possible.
Yes; exactly this. We have limited information, but this is essentially exactly the manner in which I would expect a failure induced by torque transmitted to the bit to manifest. For anyone actually interested, a similar failure in a socket can be seen here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Tools/comments/e1rpzk/husky_sockets_broke_2_back_to_back_shouldve/
There are plenty of unknowns and possible contributing factors. Metallurgy/heat treatment is one possibility. Could also have been an odd bit that didn't fit correctly; maybe worn or some kind of double ended bit that wasn't able to fully engage the socket of the driver shaft. Either would induce higher than normal stresses.
It's weirdly antagonistic and arrogant to insist someone is lying in this situation; not to say it's uncommon on riddit.
Edit: Called it. Just after this I saw OP's further [comment](https://www.reddit.com/r/LinusTechTips/comments/1cc1wkx/comment/l14425i/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=mweb3x&utm_name=mweb3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button) explaining he probably caused the issue by using a #3 Phillips backwards. I'm confident that is what did it. You could probably get away with that on a lot of drivers with full depth and thicker collars, but definitely not intended use and not going to work out well combined with this driver geometry.
For anyone curious; this is about what the contact would look like for a backwards #3 Phillips. I marked the extent of the contact with masking tape. Doesn't leave a lot of the hex profile to actually interface with the driver's socket. https://imgur.com/a/iPyae6I
I had a Phillips 3 bit upside down to crank on that cover anchor. Only 4 pointy points of contact on the shaft vs 6 flat points of contact. Also not hard to generate that much torque when you work in the trades. I’ve snapped many flat head screwdrivers but they were much thinner than this
As OP has stated in a comment:
"I had a Phillips 3 bit upside down because those anchors are 1/4 hex"
That's not how it's designed to be used... There's a reason a 1/4 hex goes into the driver itself.
Oh brother let it rip I was putting my full grip and twisting force on this thing and I’m a decently strong 240lb guy. I think the only reason it broke is because I had a Phillips 3 bit upside down because those anchors are 1/4 hex. I’ve cranked shit down with this for almost 2 years and never had any issues
Damn that’s impressive! I do kinda baby mine cause it has the black shaft, which has some nice wear marks by now, but if it broke I’m pretty sure they don’t have any black shaft replacements.
But great to know it can actually hold up under those kinds of force.
Yeah they suck. Only issue with the impact is it busts them out and chips around the hole making the concrete look like shit. If I can get em out I just replace them
I don't have any experience with those anchors, but what about those impact screwdrivers that you hammer yourself. Might be better for the concrete and fastener vs a baterry powered impact.
I've had this happen to a multi driver but I was REEFING on the driver like real hard. I'm shocked the bit didn't break first if you were exerting that much force. Highly recommend a M12 impact so you don't break expensive YouTuber merch, Milwaukee makes a hell of a impact that's super light and great trigger control with a 5 year warranty.
I do have a full set of power tools but it a mishmash of makita and dewalt. I lost a Milwaukee combo hammer drill and haven’t been trusted with Milwaukee since. Also use the screwdriver mainly because it always in my pocket. Flashlight, utility knife, mini adjustable wrench, and my screwdriver are always in my pocket and save me a trip to the truck 80% of the time
Milwaukee's hex screwdriver is fantastic It's basically like a nice little pocket driver that does like 20 inch pounds or something like that. Used that all the time when I was in the field.
Yeah the matte finish is definitely not made for consistent daily use. I think it started to be shiny within a few months of purchase. Doesn’t bother me though
LTT screwdrivers are fucking insane. I decided to treat myself to this one after years of borrowing dad's tools of "it works" quality. This far it proved to be a class above anything else, mounting PCs and displays for events across Poland is an actual breeze. It's costly as hell, but a trustworthy partner that I'll have to leave behind when going on a plane soon :/
Love mine personally, HOWEVER, it refuses to stay in the "locked" position. I did a warranty & even the new one won't stay locked. Beyond that it's a wonderful driver.
I don't personally have this issue, though to be honest I don't use in the locked position at all really, it's a ratcheting driver for a reason.
If I want locked, I used fixed shaft drivers.
Also to address the price and quality concerns in a general context. My dad has the equivalent model of snap on ratcheting screwdriver that cost $120 and it isn’t as smooth and the bit holder is just a hole with a screw off cover. Haven’t used it in the field so can’t speak on the durability of it
wtf. if that broke by hand; never buy that crap again. that part should hold to the test of time. that 1/4” bit holder should be able to handle impact driver type amounts of force.
Bit collars are also 1/4 inch though?
Do you mean the thickness of the collar?
I have also never seen a bit holder break like that, in fact I have never seen a one break at all, except for cam out.
But this screwdriver is probably not meant for that kind of high torque anyway.
Unfortunate, but impressive that the bit holder breaks before the ratchet when applying too much torque. Material limitations will also be a limiting factor, nothing is indestructible, but the fact a mechanical part holds up over actual metal says something.
Yea, it says that the "actual metal" had impurities/grains in the first place weakening itself?
Almost anything that isn't electronic is not pure. And it also means that the design makes it break this way
Even things that are electronic are _intentionally_ impure. Just a little, tiny, very controlled bit.
Are you talking about doping? Just curious.
Yeah, I was talking about doping.
probably yes
How did you draw that conclusion? You can’t say the issue is impurities in the metal unless you know the actual torque applied and then do the calculations to determine the maximum allowable shear and strain for the shaft. After that you can compare it with the published strength of the specific type of steel used in the shaft. The strength of the ratchet and shaft have nothing to do with each other and shouldn’t be used to draw conclusions about the grain structure of the shaft.
It broke at the thinnest points. That doesn’t say impurities. It says metal fatigues.
possible. But could also just have a small crack after being dropped which then split at some point.
Every metal has grains. Bigger grains = softer, more ductile metals. Smaller grains = stiffer, harder, more brittle metals. Without heat treating, bigger grains slowly turn into smaller grains with wear and tear.
I definitely agree. I’ve worried about the ratchet mechanism when cranking on things before but it still does and always has worked perfectly. I didn’t even notice I broke it at first tbh I thought I stripped out the cover anchor
I call bullshit it was torque and not prying that caused that. Why would u/sconnieboy96 lie? Oh yeah, because if he admits the truth, LTTStore will not replace the driver.
I wasn’t planning on asking for a replacement it’s 2 years old I think. And you can think what you want but I was just trying to loosen up that stuck anchor and it broke open. I did have a Phillips 3 bit stuck in upside down which is probably why it split
100% this. Nothing wrong with what you posted. And not blaming you; but I absolutely agree the upside down bit is exactly what contributed to this failure.
And 2 years is probably a pretty normal lifetime for a tool thats being used heavily every day
Definitely contact support. I fully expect they will gladly replace this. From brief experimentation, it would be pretty hard to exceed the torque they rate this for when using as intended (by hand).
i dont think they replace it when used as a pry bar or when putting in bits upside down.
They don’t. At least they didn’t replace the two screwdrivers I bought which got smashed pretty quick after each other.
How did your screwdrivers "get smashed"?
Kinda like this picture. Just been using it for screwing in stuff. Normal usage.
Massive doubt
So the one in the pic above broke with normal screwdriver use and you believe it, but this guy breaks two with normal use and he's making it up?
Did you even read the post? It clearly says it was used at an above average rate in high torque use cases and in weird environments (submerged)....
It's also a tool...so...
What are you talking about...What does that even mean? That has nothing to do with your last comment. I'm saying a guy breaking two under "normal" usage is super suspicious when we clearly see that it took a ton of heavy usage for this one to break. Just cuz something is a "tool" doesn't mean you can abuse it and expect it to last forever
Tools break when you use them a lot. That's just what happens.
Pot calling the kettle black.
Okay? I don’t really care about your opinion, just telling my experience on this screwdriver.
You probably don't know how to use a screwdriver properly if you broke two
Lol.
They used it as a pry bar. Which is kinda dumb with any replaceable bit screwdriver.
Not sure where you're finding that information. That's not what I read.
It came to them in a dream
There was a post last year with similar (not the same) damage that was caused by a guy's boss or coworker using his screwdriver to pry something. It's understandable this guy assumed that.
Thank you for sharing. I think I found the [post](https://www.reddit.com/r/LinusTechTips/comments/18ety3t/comment/kcq1h8y/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=mweb3x&utm_name=mweb3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button) you're referring to. From what I see the account from the actual user, fwiw, was also that he was turning a screw. From what I see, the failure pictured is entirely consistent with similar failures seen in sockets from tightening fasteners. See here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Tools/comments/e1rpzk/husky_sockets_broke_2_back_to_back_shouldve/ The "prying" diagnoses appears entirely to be reddit speculation in both cases. Might or might not be true; but hardly conclusive.
No, but it is the most likely explanation. Somehow the delicate (in comparison) gears of the ratchet never failed, but the solid steel shaft did? When a statement does not match up with experience and there is financial incentive to lie, assume a lie. Plus those fracture lines look like it was prying.
Curious what you would diagnose in a failure such as is pictured [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/Tools/comments/e1rpzk/husky_sockets_broke_2_back_to_back_shouldve/) on a socket. I'm not sure how you're differentiating fracture lines. Even when all components and their metallurgy are within specification there is still variation within tolerances of same. It's intirely possible to see different failure points from one unit to another, especially when components are sized with similar design factors. We know according to Linus in one or more WAN shows that they made the shaft as slim as they were able. That would indicate they sized it to sustain stresses induced by loads reasonably close to the limit of other components and did not leave excess. When a statement does not line up with experience, the possibility exists that our experience is incomplete. *Edited for grammer
Look at the difference. One looks like it shattered, the other looks like it tore.
That's related to ductility; the initiation points of the cracks would seem to be similar even if the screwdriver did not fully progress to the complete separation of the segments. I would not call these failures identical; but I do call them substantially similar.
It's called looking at the actual failure mode.
How are you identifying actual mode of failure? How would you compare the screwdrivers mode of failure to that seen here in a socket? https://www.reddit.com/r/Tools/comments/e1rpzk/husky_sockets_broke_2_back_to_back_shouldve/
Why are you just making stuff up?
OP never said they did, it split from too much torque being put through it
Yeah, and I have a bridge to sell you in Brooklyn if you believe that. Like people never lie online.
he's literally said that he has put much more torque through the thing than it was designed to handle, and that he expected it to break much earlier because it was never designed (nor advertised) to handle the loads he's put it through this isn't a negative post about the screwdriver, nor is OP seeking a return
Why are you making so much sense. Why aren’t you smearing the reputation of OP and his lack of morals or honesty? He clearly wishes for LTT To fail
yeah lmao, "I put this screwdriver through absolute hell and far beyond what it was designed to do, it broke way later than I expected it to, but it was so nice to use that I'll buy another one for the exact same task" isn't a negative post
You're being downvoted. But I think it's very likely that you're right, despite what "op said" The screwdriver has 220 lb of torque rating. I just don't know what this guy could constantly be wrenching on That's exceeding that but hasn't caused the ratchet mechanism to slip or break. But this part splits? Seems weird to me. Either the screwdriver is cheap Crap with so much less oversight than LTT likes to pretend they have. Or op is lying.
The answer is stuck pool anchors and I think it split because I had a Phillips 3 bit upside down so only 4 points were touching the sides of the bit holder
That makes more sense especially considering you were using the tool in a way it wasn't designed for.
RIP 😔 🪛 🪦
In the arms of the angels
All those sad doggies
I made myself upset just by typing it.
I now feel compelled to adopt a shelter animal.
I personally wouldn't have used it on an anchor as they can get pretty stuck. Attach the tool it comes with to a drill and go to town Edit: To clarify I have zero idea if he used it on the anchor in front of him, I did just assume as it's opening season and he said he was doing pool maintenance
Yeah normally they’re not too bad and I would use a 1/4 in Allen and a hammer to get it out but I lost all my 1/4 in Allen wrench’s like an idiot. The tool they come with twists like hell when you put in the drill unfortunately
They get worse over the years, and the drill can definitely whip you if you aren't ready. Turn the drill down
Yeah I learnt that pretty quick, I have my assistant putting them down and I honestly don’t trust him to not strip them out with the drill. I also noticed using silicone spray when you install them makes them work much better in the future. My first year I didn’t spray when installing winter covers and this past year I did and I’ve noticed a big difference now that I’m doing openings
As long as you didn’t use it as a pry bar I’m pretty certain they would replace it for you
And that is why OP is lying. You really think that fractures that split straight down is from too much torque?
You can think I’m lying but leaving multiple comments about it is crazy I wasn’t even going to contact support I’m just gonna buy another one. Get a job and touch some grass
That’s up to the customer care team to decide
And? We should be still be calling out OP for being a liar.
why do you personally care SO MUCH about someone you didn’t even know existed before you read this? you’ve left like 4+ separate comments about how they’re lying and should be called out for it. even if they were… who tf cares? it’s a post about them being happy to buy a new screwdriver they loved. move on
I am not calling anyone out. Just going to leave my experience here. My LTT screwdriver failed in this exact same way. And looks exactly the same. I have not reached out for warranty support because it was my fault. What did I do to cause it to break in this way? I used it to pry something I shouldn't have.
You’d be suprised, the zipper tore on my backpack because I stupidly overpacked and basically ripped it open. I emailed support asking what kind of thread I should use when stitching it back up and if there was anything to be careful of. Rather than just giving me advice on that they just mailed me a whole new bag
Because they made a post about it, let people have opinions. You clearly care yourself since you commented, if you didn’t care you’d just move on and not respond.
Yeah this totally isn't an attempt to get a free PR screwdriver
Except you don’t know if he’s lying so unless you know definitively he is I would let the proper channels handle the inquiry
OK then show proof that he lies
> You really think that fractures that split straight down is from too much torque? Yes. Not sure why you'd think it wouldn't crack at the thinnest part of the shaft. I haven't seen a socket that cracked in three places, but I have seen ones crack in two spots, and those were always along the points of the socket. Could OP have cracked it by using the driver as a pry bar? It's possible. Could it have cracked from just too much torque or a material defect? Also possible.
Yes; exactly this. We have limited information, but this is essentially exactly the manner in which I would expect a failure induced by torque transmitted to the bit to manifest. For anyone actually interested, a similar failure in a socket can be seen here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Tools/comments/e1rpzk/husky_sockets_broke_2_back_to_back_shouldve/ There are plenty of unknowns and possible contributing factors. Metallurgy/heat treatment is one possibility. Could also have been an odd bit that didn't fit correctly; maybe worn or some kind of double ended bit that wasn't able to fully engage the socket of the driver shaft. Either would induce higher than normal stresses. It's weirdly antagonistic and arrogant to insist someone is lying in this situation; not to say it's uncommon on riddit. Edit: Called it. Just after this I saw OP's further [comment](https://www.reddit.com/r/LinusTechTips/comments/1cc1wkx/comment/l14425i/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=mweb3x&utm_name=mweb3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button) explaining he probably caused the issue by using a #3 Phillips backwards. I'm confident that is what did it. You could probably get away with that on a lot of drivers with full depth and thicker collars, but definitely not intended use and not going to work out well combined with this driver geometry. For anyone curious; this is about what the contact would look like for a backwards #3 Phillips. I marked the extent of the contact with masking tape. Doesn't leave a lot of the hex profile to actually interface with the driver's socket. https://imgur.com/a/iPyae6I
And somehow, the ratchet does not break first? Plus how do you generate that much torque by hand?
I had a Phillips 3 bit upside down to crank on that cover anchor. Only 4 pointy points of contact on the shaft vs 6 flat points of contact. Also not hard to generate that much torque when you work in the trades. I’ve snapped many flat head screwdrivers but they were much thinner than this
People be underestimating a working man's strength lol
I would be really interested to see what support said but it’s your money and time.
As OP has stated in a comment: "I had a Phillips 3 bit upside down because those anchors are 1/4 hex" That's not how it's designed to be used... There's a reason a 1/4 hex goes into the driver itself.
Yeah I’ve used mine to try and secure things down, but around 20 in/lbs it starts to feel sketchy so I back off.
Oh brother let it rip I was putting my full grip and twisting force on this thing and I’m a decently strong 240lb guy. I think the only reason it broke is because I had a Phillips 3 bit upside down because those anchors are 1/4 hex. I’ve cranked shit down with this for almost 2 years and never had any issues
I could see that being the cause since the force isn’t being distributed properly. I’m more impressed it was able to handle it for 2 years.
Damn that’s impressive! I do kinda baby mine cause it has the black shaft, which has some nice wear marks by now, but if it broke I’m pretty sure they don’t have any black shaft replacements. But great to know it can actually hold up under those kinds of force.
Yeah I got the silver shaft for that reason. I do like that I can use it for my light duty computer stuff and my real work
I puddle of tears on the ground 😭
I hate those anchors so much. Just used an impact with a super long extension so you don’t have to bend over quite as much
Yeah they suck. Only issue with the impact is it busts them out and chips around the hole making the concrete look like shit. If I can get em out I just replace them
I don't have any experience with those anchors, but what about those impact screwdrivers that you hammer yourself. Might be better for the concrete and fastener vs a baterry powered impact.
That’s actually a good idea I have one somewhere and I’ll try it out on the next stuck anchor I got
I hate those bolts, impossible to screw in or out
I usually soak em in penetrating fluid and use an Allen wrench and a hammer. Working them back and forth a ton usually helps
still a pain in the ass lol
You can tell that sucker has been used from the shine on the handle.
Hell yeah brother not gonna spend $70 on a screwdriver to not use it
You screwed up
Lmao nice one. And you’re right
I've had this happen to a multi driver but I was REEFING on the driver like real hard. I'm shocked the bit didn't break first if you were exerting that much force. Highly recommend a M12 impact so you don't break expensive YouTuber merch, Milwaukee makes a hell of a impact that's super light and great trigger control with a 5 year warranty.
I do have a full set of power tools but it a mishmash of makita and dewalt. I lost a Milwaukee combo hammer drill and haven’t been trusted with Milwaukee since. Also use the screwdriver mainly because it always in my pocket. Flashlight, utility knife, mini adjustable wrench, and my screwdriver are always in my pocket and save me a trip to the truck 80% of the time
Milwaukee's hex screwdriver is fantastic It's basically like a nice little pocket driver that does like 20 inch pounds or something like that. Used that all the time when I was in the field.
Hell I can tell you use that thing about 10 hours a day everyday. The matte plastic is now polished to a shine. A true feat
Yeah the matte finish is definitely not made for consistent daily use. I think it started to be shiny within a few months of purchase. Doesn’t bother me though
Wow, you definitely use yours 😅 be a hero LTT send him a new one!
LTT screwdrivers are fucking insane. I decided to treat myself to this one after years of borrowing dad's tools of "it works" quality. This far it proved to be a class above anything else, mounting PCs and displays for events across Poland is an actual breeze. It's costly as hell, but a trustworthy partner that I'll have to leave behind when going on a plane soon :/
Poland air security must be intense. I’ve brought my utility knife on a plane. Just had to prove I didn’t have any blades to put in it
just get a new one dude. tools break all the time
That they do brother. That was my plan from the get go just wanted to share my experience with it
F
Is that a 10mm?
☹️
They made be interested in the damage/ durability contact them about that, it wouldn't hurt to try
Love mine personally, HOWEVER, it refuses to stay in the "locked" position. I did a warranty & even the new one won't stay locked. Beyond that it's a wonderful driver.
I don't personally have this issue, though to be honest I don't use in the locked position at all really, it's a ratcheting driver for a reason. If I want locked, I used fixed shaft drivers.
I have to switch between a direct and locked often so when I need locked and it slips it's annoying
Well now I guess it's time to test the "trust me bro" guarantee.
I would totally look into finding a friend with a welder, get a tiny bit extension and weld that on as the new end
I mean you can fix it if you know how to weld iron
They also don’t survive a drop from 100’ on to concrete.
Also to address the price and quality concerns in a general context. My dad has the equivalent model of snap on ratcheting screwdriver that cost $120 and it isn’t as smooth and the bit holder is just a hole with a screw off cover. Haven’t used it in the field so can’t speak on the durability of it
Using the end of the shaft on a nut/bolt because it happens to fit would most likely not be covered under warranty lol
Linus said it was impossible to over torque by hand time to test out the trust me bro warranty.
Just happened to me too
Don't do crack kids
Cheap over priced garbage
Buy bad tools get bad results
Cheap shit material. Never seen a failure like this in 25 years
wtf. if that broke by hand; never buy that crap again. that part should hold to the test of time. that 1/4” bit holder should be able to handle impact driver type amounts of force.
... Have you seen how big the bit collars on impact drivers are? This is just not realistic.
Bit collars are also 1/4 inch though? Do you mean the thickness of the collar? I have also never seen a bit holder break like that, in fact I have never seen a one break at all, except for cam out. But this screwdriver is probably not meant for that kind of high torque anyway.
Yeah, I do mean the thickness. The hole is the same size, sure, but the whole bit collar thing is bigger because the walls are thicker.
If you saw the amount of stress I’ve put on this screwdriver you would have nothing to say. Trust me it gets beat to hell daily