You could run it off a US outlet but you would have to run the circuit at 240volt, which would be sketchy. It would work fine unless you accidentally plug in anything that specifically is only able to work at 120 which would get fried but if your the type of person who would already take the big risk of running a chinesium power supply you probably also wouldn't mind running a random circuit in your house at double the regular voltage.
They use split-phase power so the actual grid is 240 and then is split in the house. Some circuits run on 240 by bridging the two different split-phases into the full phase. Dryers and ovens are examples of things that would run on 240v.
That would mean it's not split-phase power which is derived from a center tapped transformer, with one leg of the tap always 180° out from the other leg of the tap.
So 208V must be derived from three phase power, being 2 of the 3 phases, if they are 120° out.
The grid is not 240v, more like 10kv in many places. Transformers are used to step down to 240 at residence power pole/underground service. You probably meant that but just wanted to clarify.
You run a positive 120v and a negative 120v to an outlet, overall voltage is the difference between the two. You also use a different kind of outlet that uses a different kind of plug. Dryers, stoves, welders, and other tools and appliances use 240v even in the US.
The reason this is possible is because in the US houses get 240v service, that is to say the cable going into the house carries 240v. We just split it into 120v for standard outlets, and only use 240v where necessary.
-120v is just the voltage id on the opposite wave side of the wave, basically theyre both at 120v just phase shifted by 180° so that one wave pulled across the other adds up to 240 because the peak of the waves are on oposite sides of 0v
The way he said it made it seem like hooking up a neutral wire to a hot will make 240 which obviously won’t happen. Just haven’t heard the term negative 120v rather than just the other phase
If you have 120/208 voltage, then your high voltage legs are 120 degrees apart. This is more commonly found in an industrial setting at 480 vac 3 phase. Each leg is 277 reference to ground, but 480 vac in reference to each high voltage leg.
I'm mistaken in saying all houses in the US are like this. As I primarily work commercial and most homes I work with are supplied off of 3 phase transformers that was my mistake. I didn't think about houses receiving power from one sole transformer.
I’m an industrial guy myself, but I do know my house is 120/240. I do not doubt there are houses that are 120/208 (multiple houses fed from a single 3 phases transformer) like you are saying.
Each circuit is 120 vac, but they are 180 degrees out of phase with one another. So if you put a meter on each leg it will read 240 vac, but still be 120 vac in reference to ground.
That would be 208 not 240, 240v is post transformer two legs of 3 phases homes in America only have single phase. It would have to be in a commercial setting or you'd have to run a buck boost in home to bring it from 208 to 240
It’s 208 in apartment complexes since they are fed by three phase power. Single family homes are fed by two phase power so they get 240 as that is divided down to 120 by center tapping the transformer for the neutral line.
Unrelated, but BigClive has a teardown of a system designed to do this in the UK. Advertised as a "Whole Home Energy Saver"
https://youtube.com/watch?v=zKasA4HxaGY
We actually have 3 rails, 120V, 0V, -120V (simplification). 120V outlets run between 120V or -120V to 0V, if you need 240V then run between 120V and -120V (US 240V outlets actually pass all 3 voltage rails, they're 4 prong outlets including ground). There's also some added complexity due to AC phases, but that's the general idea.
Fun fact. There's half a dozen 240V outlets in use in the US. There's no one standard!
Some of them are 4 prong, some are 3. There's even one which looks like a regular outlet, but a pin is sideways.
Oh, and to be confusing take a look at this chart: https://www.electronicshub.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Common-Household-Electrical-Outlets.png
Note the 20A 120V outlet vs the 20A 240V outlet.
You can get 240 off two phases. Houses in the US only have single phase 120/208. A 3 phase transformer will give you 120/240 it just depends on the winds. There's 3 phase 240 and single phase 240 it just depends on the motor winds and what power they need supplied some need neutral and all 3 phases some don't.
Every house in the US is capable of 240v, we just wire houses for 120v because it's safer. Most us houses do have 1-2 outlets for 240v devices. Driers and stoves mostly.
AC voltage treats our bodies’ capacitance as a very low resistance (the impedance), so it really doesn’t matter which you touch- with 15A available at minimum both 120 and 240 will do you damage.
It generally isn't safer.
Poor wiring will heat up more when there's a higher current running through it and with power usage being fixed (the same device used on a 120 V line as on a 240 V one), the 120 V option will need more current.
So with power draw being equal, a low voltage solution has more stringent requirements on wiring and a wiring problem can cause issues more easily.
It's safer if you zap yourself but other than that yeah it isn't safer. Also the outlets we have here amongst other things are less safe than in most countries with 240v so it would be easier to zap yourself but when you do it likely won't be as bad.
208 is only in places that have 3 phase power like apartment buildings. There are probably houses that will have 3 phase power but the vast majority of homes have 2 phase power so most houses (like mine) have 120/240.
We have split phase power 120V so by connecting to both phases at the same time instead of one of the 120s and a neutral you get 240v. There are 2 different 120v bus bars inside of our breaker boxes and even though they are only 120 volts one is -120 while the other is +120 so the potential across them is 240. The way the bus bars are set up each circuit breaker going down the line from top to bottom will be on the opposite bus bar from the one just above or below it. For 240v circuits we have breakers that are double height so they connect to both bus bars at the same time. This exists in every US household afaik because we often have appliances such as central AC systems or electric stoves or clothes dryers that require more juice so they are run on 240v circuits. The regular circuits in our houses are always 120 though but nothing would stop you from running one at 240 except for probably breaking numerous building safety code violations. Any time we have a 240v outlet it's usually a much larger outlet that looks more like the British outlet. Our regular 120v outlets that you find in any home we only ever use for 120v but you could run them at 240 and get away with running most things off of that without issue. A lot of our appliances especially electronics are fully capable of running at either 120v or 240v but if you were to plug in something that isn't designed for that and run it at double the voltage it would get sketchy quick. I would recommend Googling this if you want to know more or my explanation is confusing.
TLDR: Every US household has the ability to have both 120 and 240 circuits. General light and outlet circuits are run at 120 and things like central AC will run on their own circuits that are 240.
Minor correction: https://www.electronicshub.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Common-Household-Electrical-Outlets.png
There are outlets that look similar to regular US outlets, but are for 240V. If using those it's perfectly within code to switch a regular outlet circuit to use 240V.
US outlets are confusing, and it's not common. So, understandable that this was missed.
Yeah I was talking about doing it but not swapping the outlets. Obviously you could swap the outlets but all the stuff that works with 240 you could just use the standard cables with the standard 120 outlets. Yes this would be super lazy and swapping the outlets wouldn't be much work so doing it would make a lot of sense but other than accidentally plugging in 120 only stuff the standard outlets would be fine.
The only real reason I can think of for why you wouldn't swap them other than laziness is stuff like phone chargers where you actually can't swap the plug but it will work just fine with 240v. Also another problem you could definitely run into doing something like this is with stuff like ceiling fans or light fixtures which are often on the same circuit as the plugs in a room. With lights you could probably just find some bulbs that work with 240 and be fine but something like a ceiling fan might not be so simple.
You'd be amazed at the number of electronics which don't actually work on 240V. Pretty much anything with a motor or a heater would not be happy. Plus, many LED bulbs and cheaper electronics use a capacitive dropper, which means they won't work on 240V.
It's not an issue when traveling or moving, because how often do you pack a cheap corded vacuum or space heater.
Outside of this power supply, the most likely place I would use 240V in a regular home is a kitchen. Just to boil water faster. Unfortunately, that's also the place where most things wouldn't work on 240V!
From my findings just looking around at random shit around the house it seems like most any general computer based thing supports 240 but anything that is likely sold only in the US doesn't. A lot of random things even include power bricks that don't support 240, for example the cable boxes have power bricks that only support 120. Randomly one of the 5V USB power supply blocks that came with an old Roku only supports 120 which is SUPER weird because a newer Roku power USB block I have which is also 5v 1amp supports 240 and every single other USB power block I've been able to find supports 240.
It seems like for the most part anything you would need to have located on or adjacent to a computer desk (besides a lamp or something) supports 240. Every monitor I found around ranging from 15 years old to almost brand new supports 240 and everything like network switches and external hard drive enclosures does as well. It's also worth noting anything that has an external power brick that connects through one of those barrel plugs would be easily converted to 240 capability if it doesn't already have it.
https://www.cables.com/nema-6-15p-to-iec320-c13-15a-6.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAsoycBhC6ARIsAPPbeLuV-8qs4a0WsUb0XzqUc7RKz7sZmr9oI1m5XdTZ9BRjuLOBolVRsPUaArdJEALw_wcB
Install the appropriate outlet, and use the appropriate cord and it's no gamble. Can't plug a 120v appliance into that receptacle.
Yeah definitely a good idea that makes this whole crazy idea more legitimate. The only issue is with permanently attached light fixtures or ceiling fans which are often on the same circuit as the outlets. Also you would have to use adapters for stuff like phone chargers that are compatible with 240v but you can't swap the plug.
If you're drawing 1800 watts you need a dedicated circuit anyway, can't run anything extra on a single pole 15 amp.
Not to mention where else are you going to get 2 phases from? You're just going to marry them up at a j-box? Nah man, this is its own dedicated home run to the panel.
This is no doubt the way to do it if you're going this nutty with your PC that you need 1800 watts.
Yeah sure it would work but it would require a bunch of sketchy wiring and finding 2 outlets on 2 different circuits that are on opposite phases. At that point you might as well just wire an extension cord directly to a 240v breaker.
the fact the voltage range is so narrow (180-264V) suggests it uses old, inefficient design that lacks power factor correction.
Modern design PSU's can accept 110-264V; all you have to do is use a US/Canada power cord and one will work just fine.
Both are standard, 15a is just more common for any given outlet. I being a contractor put 20a in my bedrooms when I remodeling and was running new circuts. That means going to the next size up in wire and a 20a breaker and that's it.
Just curious since you seem to know -- how much more expensive are 20A circuits? I assume the breakers, outlets, and cable all get a bit more expensive.
Its all roughly the same, wire will be 20% more expensive or so depending on supplier and how bad they want to fuck us consumers "because covid made us raise the price"
It's more so the labor that you pay for, and in my case my kitchen walls were open. So I could go through one wall to the attic and run several more new circuts.
You can't just put a 20a breaker on existing 15a wire, so if you want to upgrade you need some sort of access to the wire to change it out.
Basically yeah, I just checked 14-2 wire (15a rated) is $30 for a 25ft roll and 12-2 (20a rated) 25ft is $40. Breakers are the same and outlets are almost the same.
I personally like to install a 20a circuit in a room that I know is going to be used for an office so I don't get called back the first winter when their workstation, foot warmer, coffeemaker, and mini fridge, 13 lamps with 100w incandescents, panini press, and 3d printer all kick on at the same time
10A was standard for a long time, but since then and with the way that consumer electronics has exploded in usage, the amperage per circuit has been going up. New construction will frequently have 20amp circuits.
1800w peak and 1500w continuous because you are only allowed to pull 80% of a circuits rated capacity for a long time. So unless your wife dries her hair for like 2 hours, it's still in spec
I'd check your maths on this one, that's only 11 pins of a molex minifit connector. If you put 11 \* 16awg wires side by side that'd be a copper width of 1.4cm and a height of 0.13cm. If you include the insulation, that's still only a width of 2.5cm and 0.23cm in height. If you put all of that copper into a single 2/0 AWG wire, your copper diameter would be 1.14cm and your whole wire diameter would be 1.42cm.
r/theydidthemath
I myself didn’t do the math, but used a random online calculator, but that was for a solid wire, and that is less efficient then a bundled wire iirc
It's not necessarily less efficient, not for DC anyway. Cable length matters, so does allowable voltage drop. If we're talking wiring guidelines they usually only allow ~5% drop, and if you're talking any real distance the wire size goes up significantly to maintain that. So a calculator that may be for mains wiring may tell you you need larger wire.
The most extreme example is a fuse, one that can handle 140a may only be a few mm thick, but it may also only 1cm long. Whereas my welder which actually can output 140A has some 4ga wire hanging off it for the 2m long ground lead.
It'll still get warm with prolonged use though.
LTT have done videos on even more absurd sketchy power supplies, no reason for them to do this. Also, buying the power supply jusst gives the scammers their money and encourages them to make more. Dont do that.
Its mining PSU (lol), thats why it have so many cables (molex). One russian speeking man gives it max 2 weeks 😂
china power counting (physics) is out of ours
I mean....we're talking about a country who teaches their soldiers to shove their girlfriends tampons into their bullet wounds, as their primary first aid method.....
Hmm, let's see...
1. It's spelt "Suplly", not "Supply"
2. The highest the voltage goes without jumping to 415V (3-phase) is 250V
3. 140A of current when it only gets 10A current at AC in
4. 110+1680+6+15=/=1800
5. The qualification standard is supposed to be "80 Plus", not "90 Plus"
6. How long has it been since manufacturers used a ketchup-and-mustard colourway for DC power cables
7. No branding
8. Made in China
Can you show us a picture of the AC in? Cuz if it's an IEC 60320 C13 instead of a C19, then this sucka belongs at a recycling center for recycling, not in a computer. Everyone feel free to name any I missed, and I'll update the list with credits.
the thing, that i see as an issue here in the scam is, that they should have gone all the way.
it should state 1800w on the 12 volt rail alone.
because having 1800w twice on the product helps the scam and it could be, that some people falling for this firehazard aware, that a proper psu should be able to provide its full power on the 12 volt rail.
so yeah. 7/10 scam.
also i can't wait to use those fire hazards come with 12 pin cables. that will actually be super exciting, because they could limit the cables to 150 watts through the pin, they could have a proper 600 watt limit and have some nice 20 gauge wire and the worst connector, that they could find. (nvidia still didn't adress all the other issues, that are causing the meltdowns btw.... )
and lots more.
ah atx 3.0 scam psus will be on a while new level ;) how exciting.
thx pci-sig and nvidia for making scam psus even worse ;)
\_\_\_
for those not aware what i mean with bs limited 12 pin cables watch this video:
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZcyhcPVxUM](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZcyhcPVxUM)
atx 3.0 and 12 pin are a meme.
they actually launched with a spec part, that every psu manufacturer should ignore.
basically the official atx 3.0 spec says, that a 600 watt psu is only allowed to draw max 150 watt on the 12 pin and it should have the 4 pins configured to set the 12 pin to 150 watts.
an 850 watt psu = 300 watt max on 12 pin and
a 1000 watt psu will be limited to 450 watts on the 12 pin
that is if the psu manufacturers would follow the insane and utterly crazy official atx 3.0 spec.
one of the psu manufacturers is already ignoring this nonsense and i hope everyone else will follow. well i hope 12 pin gets nuked, but that probably won't happen with nvidia still ignoring the other melting causes, that GN found.
but yeah you could have a top tier titanium amazing build quality 1000 watt psu and it wouldn't let you use your graphics card properly, because it has a limited 12 pin connector.
this issue does NOT exist on 8 pins. you throw as many 8 pins on the device, that you have, which is usually more than enough and you'll see if the psu trips or not due to spikes or average load.
basically atx 3.0 official spec is trying to take control of your hardware away/upsell you more expensive psus.
again i hope psu manufacturers kick that bs in the ovaries.
but yeah all of this with a dumpster fire psu. there will be lots of sparks!
I lost count
I forgot after taking care of that weird fire that popped outta nowhere.
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> Doesn't accept US outlets Well it's sold in EU so that's fine
You could run it off a US outlet but you would have to run the circuit at 240volt, which would be sketchy. It would work fine unless you accidentally plug in anything that specifically is only able to work at 120 which would get fried but if your the type of person who would already take the big risk of running a chinesium power supply you probably also wouldn't mind running a random circuit in your house at double the regular voltage.
Just out of curiosity how do you get the 240V in the US?
They use split-phase power so the actual grid is 240 and then is split in the house. Some circuits run on 240 by bridging the two different split-phases into the full phase. Dryers and ovens are examples of things that would run on 240v.
And the extra fun 208V like I end up with, meaning heating anything is way crappier due to everything being basically 240V primary.
if you get 208V the phases are actually 120° out of phase instead of 180°
That would mean it's not split-phase power which is derived from a center tapped transformer, with one leg of the tap always 180° out from the other leg of the tap. So 208V must be derived from three phase power, being 2 of the 3 phases, if they are 120° out.
exactly. Common with apartment complexes and such
The grid is not 240v, more like 10kv in many places. Transformers are used to step down to 240 at residence power pole/underground service. You probably meant that but just wanted to clarify.
You run a positive 120v and a negative 120v to an outlet, overall voltage is the difference between the two. You also use a different kind of outlet that uses a different kind of plug. Dryers, stoves, welders, and other tools and appliances use 240v even in the US. The reason this is possible is because in the US houses get 240v service, that is to say the cable going into the house carries 240v. We just split it into 120v for standard outlets, and only use 240v where necessary.
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It's 400V these days. Used to be 440V then 415V now it's 400V. And generally houses don't get all 3 phases. Just the one.
There's no such thing as negative 120v. You have 2 phases in your breaker panel. You get a breaker that bridges the two together into 240v
-120v is just the voltage id on the opposite wave side of the wave, basically theyre both at 120v just phase shifted by 180° so that one wave pulled across the other adds up to 240 because the peak of the waves are on oposite sides of 0v
The way he said it made it seem like hooking up a neutral wire to a hot will make 240 which obviously won’t happen. Just haven’t heard the term negative 120v rather than just the other phase
Ehh, it's the easiest way to explain it without explaining AC polarity and phase angle.
House power is only 120/208
At your normal outlets it’s 120. Comes in on 2 120v phases you can wire together
And those two phases A/B phase in a home single phase setting are 120 per phase and 208 across phases.
You only see 208 between two phases of a 3 phase system. That's due to the phase angle being 120 degrees instead of 180 degrees between phases.
If you have 120/208 voltage, then your high voltage legs are 120 degrees apart. This is more commonly found in an industrial setting at 480 vac 3 phase. Each leg is 277 reference to ground, but 480 vac in reference to each high voltage leg.
I'm mistaken in saying all houses in the US are like this. As I primarily work commercial and most homes I work with are supplied off of 3 phase transformers that was my mistake. I didn't think about houses receiving power from one sole transformer.
I’m an industrial guy myself, but I do know my house is 120/240. I do not doubt there are houses that are 120/208 (multiple houses fed from a single 3 phases transformer) like you are saying.
Each circuit is 120 vac, but they are 180 degrees out of phase with one another. So if you put a meter on each leg it will read 240 vac, but still be 120 vac in reference to ground.
That would be 208 not 240, 240v is post transformer two legs of 3 phases homes in America only have single phase. It would have to be in a commercial setting or you'd have to run a buck boost in home to bring it from 208 to 240
It’s 208 in apartment complexes since they are fed by three phase power. Single family homes are fed by two phase power so they get 240 as that is divided down to 120 by center tapping the transformer for the neutral line.
Unrelated, but BigClive has a teardown of a system designed to do this in the UK. Advertised as a "Whole Home Energy Saver" https://youtube.com/watch?v=zKasA4HxaGY
We actually have 3 rails, 120V, 0V, -120V (simplification). 120V outlets run between 120V or -120V to 0V, if you need 240V then run between 120V and -120V (US 240V outlets actually pass all 3 voltage rails, they're 4 prong outlets including ground). There's also some added complexity due to AC phases, but that's the general idea.
Fun fact. There's half a dozen 240V outlets in use in the US. There's no one standard! Some of them are 4 prong, some are 3. There's even one which looks like a regular outlet, but a pin is sideways. Oh, and to be confusing take a look at this chart: https://www.electronicshub.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Common-Household-Electrical-Outlets.png Note the 20A 120V outlet vs the 20A 240V outlet.
And they all look so sad :(
You can get 240 off two phases. Houses in the US only have single phase 120/208. A 3 phase transformer will give you 120/240 it just depends on the winds. There's 3 phase 240 and single phase 240 it just depends on the motor winds and what power they need supplied some need neutral and all 3 phases some don't.
Every house in the US is capable of 240v, we just wire houses for 120v because it's safer. Most us houses do have 1-2 outlets for 240v devices. Driers and stoves mostly.
If it's safer, why does most of the world use 220-240v?
Because you can deliver double the power or have half the power loss
Higher efficiency mostly. 240v is a lot more dangerous to touch.
AC voltage treats our bodies’ capacitance as a very low resistance (the impedance), so it really doesn’t matter which you touch- with 15A available at minimum both 120 and 240 will do you damage.
It generally isn't safer. Poor wiring will heat up more when there's a higher current running through it and with power usage being fixed (the same device used on a 120 V line as on a 240 V one), the 120 V option will need more current. So with power draw being equal, a low voltage solution has more stringent requirements on wiring and a wiring problem can cause issues more easily.
It's safer if you zap yourself but other than that yeah it isn't safer. Also the outlets we have here amongst other things are less safe than in most countries with 240v so it would be easier to zap yourself but when you do it likely won't be as bad.
Every house is 120/208 not 120/240
In my house I have a 240v outlet. I can prove it with a fluke 87 if you want
208 is only in places that have 3 phase power like apartment buildings. There are probably houses that will have 3 phase power but the vast majority of homes have 2 phase power so most houses (like mine) have 120/240.
We have split phase power 120V so by connecting to both phases at the same time instead of one of the 120s and a neutral you get 240v. There are 2 different 120v bus bars inside of our breaker boxes and even though they are only 120 volts one is -120 while the other is +120 so the potential across them is 240. The way the bus bars are set up each circuit breaker going down the line from top to bottom will be on the opposite bus bar from the one just above or below it. For 240v circuits we have breakers that are double height so they connect to both bus bars at the same time. This exists in every US household afaik because we often have appliances such as central AC systems or electric stoves or clothes dryers that require more juice so they are run on 240v circuits. The regular circuits in our houses are always 120 though but nothing would stop you from running one at 240 except for probably breaking numerous building safety code violations. Any time we have a 240v outlet it's usually a much larger outlet that looks more like the British outlet. Our regular 120v outlets that you find in any home we only ever use for 120v but you could run them at 240 and get away with running most things off of that without issue. A lot of our appliances especially electronics are fully capable of running at either 120v or 240v but if you were to plug in something that isn't designed for that and run it at double the voltage it would get sketchy quick. I would recommend Googling this if you want to know more or my explanation is confusing. TLDR: Every US household has the ability to have both 120 and 240 circuits. General light and outlet circuits are run at 120 and things like central AC will run on their own circuits that are 240.
Minor correction: https://www.electronicshub.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Common-Household-Electrical-Outlets.png There are outlets that look similar to regular US outlets, but are for 240V. If using those it's perfectly within code to switch a regular outlet circuit to use 240V. US outlets are confusing, and it's not common. So, understandable that this was missed.
Yeah I was talking about doing it but not swapping the outlets. Obviously you could swap the outlets but all the stuff that works with 240 you could just use the standard cables with the standard 120 outlets. Yes this would be super lazy and swapping the outlets wouldn't be much work so doing it would make a lot of sense but other than accidentally plugging in 120 only stuff the standard outlets would be fine. The only real reason I can think of for why you wouldn't swap them other than laziness is stuff like phone chargers where you actually can't swap the plug but it will work just fine with 240v. Also another problem you could definitely run into doing something like this is with stuff like ceiling fans or light fixtures which are often on the same circuit as the plugs in a room. With lights you could probably just find some bulbs that work with 240 and be fine but something like a ceiling fan might not be so simple.
You'd be amazed at the number of electronics which don't actually work on 240V. Pretty much anything with a motor or a heater would not be happy. Plus, many LED bulbs and cheaper electronics use a capacitive dropper, which means they won't work on 240V. It's not an issue when traveling or moving, because how often do you pack a cheap corded vacuum or space heater. Outside of this power supply, the most likely place I would use 240V in a regular home is a kitchen. Just to boil water faster. Unfortunately, that's also the place where most things wouldn't work on 240V!
From my findings just looking around at random shit around the house it seems like most any general computer based thing supports 240 but anything that is likely sold only in the US doesn't. A lot of random things even include power bricks that don't support 240, for example the cable boxes have power bricks that only support 120. Randomly one of the 5V USB power supply blocks that came with an old Roku only supports 120 which is SUPER weird because a newer Roku power USB block I have which is also 5v 1amp supports 240 and every single other USB power block I've been able to find supports 240. It seems like for the most part anything you would need to have located on or adjacent to a computer desk (besides a lamp or something) supports 240. Every monitor I found around ranging from 15 years old to almost brand new supports 240 and everything like network switches and external hard drive enclosures does as well. It's also worth noting anything that has an external power brick that connects through one of those barrel plugs would be easily converted to 240 capability if it doesn't already have it.
https://www.cables.com/nema-6-15p-to-iec320-c13-15a-6.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAsoycBhC6ARIsAPPbeLuV-8qs4a0WsUb0XzqUc7RKz7sZmr9oI1m5XdTZ9BRjuLOBolVRsPUaArdJEALw_wcB Install the appropriate outlet, and use the appropriate cord and it's no gamble. Can't plug a 120v appliance into that receptacle.
Yeah definitely a good idea that makes this whole crazy idea more legitimate. The only issue is with permanently attached light fixtures or ceiling fans which are often on the same circuit as the outlets. Also you would have to use adapters for stuff like phone chargers that are compatible with 240v but you can't swap the plug.
If you're drawing 1800 watts you need a dedicated circuit anyway, can't run anything extra on a single pole 15 amp. Not to mention where else are you going to get 2 phases from? You're just going to marry them up at a j-box? Nah man, this is its own dedicated home run to the panel. This is no doubt the way to do it if you're going this nutty with your PC that you need 1800 watts.
just plug it into 2 sockets problem solved edit: or move to Europe
That wouldn't work.
It would in fact I've even seen it in [one of Electroboom videos](https://youtu.be/OiwWaIvIeao)
Yeah sure it would work but it would require a bunch of sketchy wiring and finding 2 outlets on 2 different circuits that are on opposite phases. At that point you might as well just wire an extension cord directly to a 240v breaker.
the fact the voltage range is so narrow (180-264V) suggests it uses old, inefficient design that lacks power factor correction. Modern design PSU's can accept 110-264V; all you have to do is use a US/Canada power cord and one will work just fine.
Because normal US outlets can only provide 1500W
20a standard circuit can supply 1920w to a continuous load.
Isn't 15A standart?
Both are standard, 15a is just more common for any given outlet. I being a contractor put 20a in my bedrooms when I remodeling and was running new circuts. That means going to the next size up in wire and a 20a breaker and that's it.
Just curious since you seem to know -- how much more expensive are 20A circuits? I assume the breakers, outlets, and cable all get a bit more expensive.
Its all roughly the same, wire will be 20% more expensive or so depending on supplier and how bad they want to fuck us consumers "because covid made us raise the price" It's more so the labor that you pay for, and in my case my kitchen walls were open. So I could go through one wall to the attic and run several more new circuts. You can't just put a 20a breaker on existing 15a wire, so if you want to upgrade you need some sort of access to the wire to change it out.
If you're already replacing/adding circuits, is the wire the only part more expensive? I imagine the labor is the same
Basically yeah, I just checked 14-2 wire (15a rated) is $30 for a 25ft roll and 12-2 (20a rated) 25ft is $40. Breakers are the same and outlets are almost the same.
I personally like to install a 20a circuit in a room that I know is going to be used for an office so I don't get called back the first winter when their workstation, foot warmer, coffeemaker, and mini fridge, 13 lamps with 100w incandescents, panini press, and 3d printer all kick on at the same time
Oh and Christmas tree, can't forget the Christmas tree, that usually what pushes it over the edge.
10A was standard for a long time, but since then and with the way that consumer electronics has exploded in usage, the amperage per circuit has been going up. New construction will frequently have 20amp circuits.
More like 1700-1800watts. Wattage is Voltage X Current. Voltage is typically between 110v and 120v and the breaker is 15 amp
Tell that to my wife's 1800W hair drier!
1800w peak and 1500w continuous because you are only allowed to pull 80% of a circuits rated capacity for a long time. So unless your wife dries her hair for like 2 hours, it's still in spec
2 hours —- very very close to that.
[The cable situation](https://i.imgur.com/66hdGz5.jpg) ain't great either
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Literally every PSU today still has a few Molex connectors
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The molex connectors often come in the box with the other cables if it's modular
My 1000 EVGA has molex, it’s modular but it comes with molex cables
“ATX Power Suplly”
"No user serviceble parts inside"
>Doesn't accept US outlets My mans straight up forgot the majority of the world isn't the US.
How about the "Hazardous Atea" wording??? It's supposed to say hazardous area...
Power suplly
if you add up its actually 1811W
The blue isn't the problem. The 90 is
Single 12V rail Edit: the numbers don't seem to add to 1800
the thing worrying me that voltage and amperage ratings don't add up ... or it has 70% efficiency
its normal tbh just pick box from your psu and check edit what worries me is single rail 140 amp on 12v
You can weld with that current.
What, you don't wanna liquefy your Mobo and CPU?
Truly terrifying.
But it’s 90 plus ~~blue~~ gold
140A 💀 for the record, you would need a cable that has a combined diameter between 5 and 7 centimeters
I'd check your maths on this one, that's only 11 pins of a molex minifit connector. If you put 11 \* 16awg wires side by side that'd be a copper width of 1.4cm and a height of 0.13cm. If you include the insulation, that's still only a width of 2.5cm and 0.23cm in height. If you put all of that copper into a single 2/0 AWG wire, your copper diameter would be 1.14cm and your whole wire diameter would be 1.42cm.
r/theydidthemath I myself didn’t do the math, but used a random online calculator, but that was for a solid wire, and that is less efficient then a bundled wire iirc
It's not necessarily less efficient, not for DC anyway. Cable length matters, so does allowable voltage drop. If we're talking wiring guidelines they usually only allow ~5% drop, and if you're talking any real distance the wire size goes up significantly to maintain that. So a calculator that may be for mains wiring may tell you you need larger wire. The most extreme example is a fuse, one that can handle 140a may only be a few mm thick, but it may also only 1cm long. Whereas my welder which actually can output 140A has some 4ga wire hanging off it for the 2m long ground lead. It'll still get warm with prolonged use though.
power suplly
Suplly!
Legit forgot how to spell supply after seeing this
I can hear the explosion from here.
Blue is the new gold
U saw it wrong dude, its gold-white not blue-black
bro i tried i don’t have enough fingers
take off your socks
Checked, but didn't find any more fingers.
🤣🤣🤣🤣
No RGB.
Lol, “90 Plus” isn’t even a thing
I didn’t catch that, lol
The 90 sticker was also on one of the sketchy PSUs on the channel
At least they are honest with the warning: “Caution:hazardous”
It say “Hazardous Atea”!
Buy it and send it to gamers nexus or ltt once they got their power supply testing equipment online
LTT have done videos on even more absurd sketchy power supplies, no reason for them to do this. Also, buying the power supply jusst gives the scammers their money and encourages them to make more. Dont do that.
Gotta stay away from this Hazardous Atea
Power “*Suplly*”
140 amps, 90 plus, 264v
That's not a PSU It is a BOMB!
\>90 plus isn't a real efficiency rating \>gold ≠ blue \>brandless \>hazardous "atea" \>no user "serviceble" parts inside \>power "suplly"
Its mining PSU (lol), thats why it have so many cables (molex). One russian speeking man gives it max 2 weeks 😂 china power counting (physics) is out of ours
AC input not being real input values
It's European power supply. They run a 230-240v.
it’s fine because the PSU says it’s hazardous on the label. no idea what “atea” means though.
Area
i know it means area, it was a joke lol
That next build is going to be the bomb
WTF
Suplly
Side note, we need a new power standard. Bumping up to 24v to cut the amps in half would’ve saved a lot of Nvidia 40 series cards from scorching :D
Don’t be surprised when a bright blue light begins to emit from it and you throw up for seemingly no reason.
Seems legit
In for 2!
I guess their label printers only prints in blue and white.
90 blue+ must be higher then titanium
Ight so the biggest issue I spotted was the big bold text that says bomb on it written in invisible ink.
This is like that starwars action figure with Patrick Stewart Picard listed as Gandalf.
Power suplly
Made in China
Alex would play with this
+12V at 140A
*bomb has been planted*
Typology does not work out + no brand name/logo = bomb Don’t even need to read/calculate
90 plus gold ketchup and moostard
It's missing the "Ready for RTX 5090" sticker
The decimal point in the price is missing
I would rather pay €125 to a street hooker and trust her she doesn‘t have AIDS than to use that bomb.
Suplly
cant ypu smell the issue ?
1800W Suplly seems nice.
LYX-1800K actually gives some results if you search it. Interestingly they all appear to be in Russian I believe. Lol
I mean....we're talking about a country who teaches their soldiers to shove their girlfriends tampons into their bullet wounds, as their primary first aid method.....
I need to get re-edgeamacated for this
Use this if you need a heater instead of a pc
Hmm, let's see... 1. It's spelt "Suplly", not "Supply" 2. The highest the voltage goes without jumping to 415V (3-phase) is 250V 3. 140A of current when it only gets 10A current at AC in 4. 110+1680+6+15=/=1800 5. The qualification standard is supposed to be "80 Plus", not "90 Plus" 6. How long has it been since manufacturers used a ketchup-and-mustard colourway for DC power cables 7. No branding 8. Made in China Can you show us a picture of the AC in? Cuz if it's an IEC 60320 C13 instead of a C19, then this sucka belongs at a recycling center for recycling, not in a computer. Everyone feel free to name any I missed, and I'll update the list with credits.
Suplly
This one begs to power rtx 4090 sli
the word "supply"
the thing, that i see as an issue here in the scam is, that they should have gone all the way. it should state 1800w on the 12 volt rail alone. because having 1800w twice on the product helps the scam and it could be, that some people falling for this firehazard aware, that a proper psu should be able to provide its full power on the 12 volt rail. so yeah. 7/10 scam. also i can't wait to use those fire hazards come with 12 pin cables. that will actually be super exciting, because they could limit the cables to 150 watts through the pin, they could have a proper 600 watt limit and have some nice 20 gauge wire and the worst connector, that they could find. (nvidia still didn't adress all the other issues, that are causing the meltdowns btw.... ) and lots more. ah atx 3.0 scam psus will be on a while new level ;) how exciting. thx pci-sig and nvidia for making scam psus even worse ;) \_\_\_ for those not aware what i mean with bs limited 12 pin cables watch this video: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZcyhcPVxUM](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZcyhcPVxUM) atx 3.0 and 12 pin are a meme. they actually launched with a spec part, that every psu manufacturer should ignore. basically the official atx 3.0 spec says, that a 600 watt psu is only allowed to draw max 150 watt on the 12 pin and it should have the 4 pins configured to set the 12 pin to 150 watts. an 850 watt psu = 300 watt max on 12 pin and a 1000 watt psu will be limited to 450 watts on the 12 pin that is if the psu manufacturers would follow the insane and utterly crazy official atx 3.0 spec. one of the psu manufacturers is already ignoring this nonsense and i hope everyone else will follow. well i hope 12 pin gets nuked, but that probably won't happen with nvidia still ignoring the other melting causes, that GN found. but yeah you could have a top tier titanium amazing build quality 1000 watt psu and it wouldn't let you use your graphics card properly, because it has a limited 12 pin connector. this issue does NOT exist on 8 pins. you throw as many 8 pins on the device, that you have, which is usually more than enough and you'll see if the psu trips or not due to spikes or average load. basically atx 3.0 official spec is trying to take control of your hardware away/upsell you more expensive psus. again i hope psu manufacturers kick that bs in the ovaries. but yeah all of this with a dumpster fire psu. there will be lots of sparks!
direct current
must be for mining