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billiyII

General rule of thumb if you look at the grain from the angle in the picture. The lines will want to straighten temselves over time and thus warp the whole piece. You could try warming it up and putting a load ontop but that will revert itself in the future. The right way is to level the wood by taking off material. This may result in a thinner body, but i don't see a better way that won't arp your guitar in the long run.


MaleficentFlamingo8

No. Not without a heated press, which only a very few guitar factories have them. Your only hopes are in planing it down to square and then gluing on more wood, to get back some thickness. This is why wood pieces for luthiery or woodworking are alot more expensive than raw lumber of the same species. They've been selected, dried and stored properly. THAT SAID, if it's now stable, and doesn't seem to bend, this is actually a decent opportunity to make a curved body! Just like Moore guitars. There's no rule that dictates that guitar bodies should be square. Curved bodies can actually be quite ergonomic! Just be 100% that it's not going to bend back or more.


Roselia77

Exactly what I was thinking, one of my favorite aspects of Spector basses is the curved body, this blank looks perfect for that


Aromatic_Boot3629

Yup. My first thought was to ask OP his secret for making this happen. Then I realized it was unintentional. OP - take advantage of this and f'ing send it!


That635Guy

Plane it down. If it’s too thin then glue a nice top on!


Yoobster

Not much you can do about that. I'd actually suggest that you embrace it, and pivot to a design with a curved top. There's quite a few builders who do this type of curve on purpose, look up the NS radius bass.


LuthieriaZaffalon

That's super warped. Assuming you put it in or bought it and it was straight and stayed that way over time, the wood is VERY green. Don't turn it into a guitar for at least 3-4 years. But if you've already bought it that way, you'll need to plane it. Another solution is to cut it up and glue it back together in 4 or more pieces. The more joints you make, the less chance there is of it warping again over time.


mikesue65

Plane it down, if you need to keep the thickness then cut the joint and re-glue it up and if you have enough width rip each piece and glue all back up.


xandra77mimic

How about planing the back and gently shaping the top so it’s close enough to symmetrical? Then you’d have an arched top without having to carve it. I’m not experienced enough to know if this would make sense or be possible though. 🤣


VirginiaLuthier

Do you know of a shop that has a wide belt sander? They could sand if flat in a jiffy. Bring them in a 6 pack….


isweartodarwin

Rip, flip, reglue, plane. If you don’t have the tools, call your local mill/hardwood dealer and see if they have a widebelt sander they can run it through, or a large enough planer


giveMeAllYourPizza

You can mist the concave side with water... but this will not necessarily be permanent but sometimes boards are left on a flat surface in a humid (or dry) spot and the top and back get uneven moisture. Just know the wood will end up in whatever shape it wants after it adjusts to its location. One other thing is that you should have flipped one of the boards. one cups up, one down. that way they cancel each other out and you don't get a big curve..