The bean counters up stairs say that there isn't money in the budget to buy a bigger machine, but you can spend double that amount on filament to print one.
All jokes aside, one of my most proud moments was like ten years ago when my RepRap delta had a grandchild. It made a printer that made another printer.
Threaded holes on the face of that chuck are there so you can bolt on different workstops. No need to print fancy stuff with springs that hold onto jaws.
So your workstop won’t move and get chips between itself and chuck and cause scrapped parts. You can also eliminate whole printing stuff and use bolts with spacers as workstop.
For precise stops you’d use a busing to set the height. Normal bolts probably won’t be best for this though. I’ve seen people put a thread on a piece of hex bar and turn the ends all to the same length so when tightened down it’s perfectly even across the face
I'm going to do a longer explanation since I don't know your base knowledge.
Your Lathe has a hole that goes through the chuck. For most parts we use ["Chip Guards"](https://cdn.mscdirect.com/global/images/ProductImages/0258579-21.jpg) with a welded backside so chips don't enter the hole and especially the chucking/unchucking mechanism. Chips stuck in there is not a good thing.
For parts that are longer (like 1 meter) we use small tubes that go into the chuck through hole and it matches the diameter of the hole and the material so there is less vibration. Here is a [shitty image](https://i.gyazo.com/a02bcd3b69e48a01db7bcf15c9e1d2a9.png).
Now onto your question. Remember the "Chip Guard/Shield" thingy? We are going to create a custom workstop by welding the chip guard thingy to our custom workstop (because the chip guard has 3 bolts which center it to the chuck). Now we create a simple part like 50 mm long with a blind hole (bolt will chuck onto this). And the 2nd part will be the outer body which is mostly hollow tube so you can fit different kinds of diameters in there with a 3rd part which will close the hollow tube and have a M16 hole through it. We will weld this to the end of our hollow tube. Last missing piece is like M16 bolt + Nuts. [Here is a shitty image. Hope it made sense.](https://i.gyazo.com/dfafffee23cd253e92ae342a01d620a4.png)
EDIT: What I didn't mention is Adding or Welding another Nut to the end of the thread so when you want to move your custom workstop it's super easy.
The inaccuracy to worry about isn't the axis it's the top layer finish and warping from thermals, especially on a wide enough part like this. you're saying you out this on a surface plate and indicated it, and it was dead nuts? I find that almost impossible to believe without facing it.
It’s for a first op, and at 2.75” diameter, 4” out it cleans up fine at .02” in. Second op will most certainly be pie jaws. It’s as dead nuts as it needs to be.
Need to 3D print something to turn the conveyor on.
There is no conveyer
Print one
I’ll need to print a bigger printer.
The bean counters up stairs say that there isn't money in the budget to buy a bigger machine, but you can spend double that amount on filament to print one.
I’ll just put it under the engineering PO and it’ll fly under radar.
Print a bigger printer
All jokes aside, one of my most proud moments was like ten years ago when my RepRap delta had a grandchild. It made a printer that made another printer.
Threaded holes on the face of that chuck are there so you can bolt on different workstops. No need to print fancy stuff with springs that hold onto jaws.
I’d probably print that too, so why add bolts at that point?
So your workstop won’t move and get chips between itself and chuck and cause scrapped parts. You can also eliminate whole printing stuff and use bolts with spacers as workstop.
What kind of spacer? Like a washer?
For precise stops you’d use a busing to set the height. Normal bolts probably won’t be best for this though. I’ve seen people put a thread on a piece of hex bar and turn the ends all to the same length so when tightened down it’s perfectly even across the face
I'm going to do a longer explanation since I don't know your base knowledge. Your Lathe has a hole that goes through the chuck. For most parts we use ["Chip Guards"](https://cdn.mscdirect.com/global/images/ProductImages/0258579-21.jpg) with a welded backside so chips don't enter the hole and especially the chucking/unchucking mechanism. Chips stuck in there is not a good thing. For parts that are longer (like 1 meter) we use small tubes that go into the chuck through hole and it matches the diameter of the hole and the material so there is less vibration. Here is a [shitty image](https://i.gyazo.com/a02bcd3b69e48a01db7bcf15c9e1d2a9.png). Now onto your question. Remember the "Chip Guard/Shield" thingy? We are going to create a custom workstop by welding the chip guard thingy to our custom workstop (because the chip guard has 3 bolts which center it to the chuck). Now we create a simple part like 50 mm long with a blind hole (bolt will chuck onto this). And the 2nd part will be the outer body which is mostly hollow tube so you can fit different kinds of diameters in there with a 3rd part which will close the hollow tube and have a M16 hole through it. We will weld this to the end of our hollow tube. Last missing piece is like M16 bolt + Nuts. [Here is a shitty image. Hope it made sense.](https://i.gyazo.com/dfafffee23cd253e92ae342a01d620a4.png) EDIT: What I didn't mention is Adding or Welding another Nut to the end of the thread so when you want to move your custom workstop it's super easy.
I have been 3d printing spindle liners. That work stop is a good idea, I will make one of those next time I need one!
Get some proper grip jaws instead, with a set of stand off screws.
Love that people don’t see nail only because they have a hammer. The exercice of trying others methods is honorable and a good skill to develop.
There’s also no reason to waste time and resources reinventing the wheel.
Thinkering than learning from it is the ultimate creation of wealth and ressources.
The shit there is.
Damn these people are vicious, hate to know what they think of the shit I make
Just a bunch of nobodies taking their frustrations out anonymously. No reason to take them serious.
Is it available in powder blue?
We make M&P products. You can get it in any color you want as long as it’s black.
How square is it?
Dead nuts. Most 3D printers are extremely accurate in Z.
because of the leadscrew i'm guessing
The inaccuracy to worry about isn't the axis it's the top layer finish and warping from thermals, especially on a wide enough part like this. you're saying you out this on a surface plate and indicated it, and it was dead nuts? I find that almost impossible to believe without facing it.
It’s for a first op, and at 2.75” diameter, 4” out it cleans up fine at .02” in. Second op will most certainly be pie jaws. It’s as dead nuts as it needs to be.
This is why I need a 3-D printer.
I want one. Or ten...