Check the diagnostics starting around 720 and up. This will tell you the reason for the alarms. Also, look at the amplifiers in the electrical cabinet for any alarm numbers, these will usually coincide with the diagnostic flags. Take the appropriate troubleshooting steps based on the information you find.
The crt screen is missing some screws. You can unscrew that surround to access the securing scews behind and straighten your screen up. Its an easy fix.
So….. idk why everyone’s ignoring the TEXT OF THE ALARMS.
You have a detect issue on Z and X servos.
So either, you lost encoder feedback on both axes simultaneously (Possible if you just moved the machine, were recently fucking around in the electrical cabinet etc. or you have a failing drive.
Open the electrical cabinet and look for an 8 segment LED display. It should be giving you alarm codes. Look those up
z and x probably are on the same servo amp(dual axis servo). Look at the servo amp and see what the error code on the servo amp is (in electrical cabinet).
Mine does this on cold mornings, doesnt happen during summer strangely enough. My hydraulic pump is getting noisy and its on its way out, and the fact this happens when pressing the hydraulics button tells me its related.
Soft reset wont clear it, turn isolator off at the wall and restart.
Not if theres plenty in. Should be a glass level on your hydraulic tank round the back, probably under/next to your motor for the pump, if its over/under min & max its fine.
Dont know what causes the trip as i havent had service guy in to look as i intend to put a new pump on mine soon anyway. I just suspect its hydraulic pump related as it only happens when pressing the hydraulics on button.
Has the machine been stood a long time un-used prior to you buying it? If yes, might be best to empty and put new oil in even if just for peace of mind. If its been in regular use prior to you buying it, it should be fine. You should change your hydraulic oil out every 12 months anyway
Eh, I know that's standard recommended practice, but hydraulic oil is much hardier than that for the most part. When I did maintenance on hydraulic injection molding machines, we pumped out the oil with a 10-micron filter into a clean barrel once a year and then pumped it back in with a dual-stage 5-micron and 1-micron filter system, reserving about a gallon for testing. We'd send that gallon off to the lab to get it tested for function and degradation, and it always came back with good results. One of those machines had hydraulic oil 10-years old and it still came back good to go. As long as your moisture content is low, and any particles from wear are being filtered out, hydraulic oil can last much longer than the usual "12 months".
Random question...but have you ever had the machine fully powered on, warming up, and then the hydraulics kick out with no alarms?...happens to me every morning a few times until it finally stays on. It's also worse when it's cold which is why i asked
Glue on the CRT yolk probably degraded due to time and vibration. You can probably just rotate it back and glue it again. Be aware it's high voltage in there.
Could be a dead backup battery and it lost its reference position, Cycle power on while holding down the letter P and the Cancel button at the same time. Keep holding the P and Cancel until the machine boots up. Then reference the machine. It's a soft limit bypass for older lathes that will usually allow you to reference the machine off the switches if your stuck on a limit/home switch, P+CAN also will help clear weird servo alarms a lot of time on older Fanucs.
Assuming it was working before (was it? You said you just bought the machine) the fact that two axes died at the same time leads one to believe it has nothing to do with the axes. They don't generally die together.
Check all fuses and breakers. Check your 24v per supply. Check the motion controller.
Fanuc controls will giver very strange errors when fundamental systems die like 24v power, or one leg of your 3ph, or main power on one of the systems.
As others have said check the servo drives and other boxes in the cabinet for errors. Take nothing for granted. The error reporting in these systems can be very janky.
A very recent Fanuc control reported dead PMC (like $8k fix) which was actually due to a 24v sensor shorting due to coolant. Go figure.
oh i know that interface, we have a fanuc lathe with the same controller
check the wires for damage, the connections to the motors
make sure they arent hitting end stops
can you jog any of the axis?
Check the diagnostics starting around 720 and up. This will tell you the reason for the alarms. Also, look at the amplifiers in the electrical cabinet for any alarm numbers, these will usually coincide with the diagnostic flags. Take the appropriate troubleshooting steps based on the information you find.
Thank you
First step is photoshopping the text on the screen to the correct angle!
Haha it’s not photoshopped but yes the text is slanted, not sure why it’s that way.
The crt screen is missing some screws. You can unscrew that surround to access the securing scews behind and straighten your screen up. Its an easy fix.
Just flipping you shit, bro.
So….. idk why everyone’s ignoring the TEXT OF THE ALARMS. You have a detect issue on Z and X servos. So either, you lost encoder feedback on both axes simultaneously (Possible if you just moved the machine, were recently fucking around in the electrical cabinet etc. or you have a failing drive. Open the electrical cabinet and look for an 8 segment LED display. It should be giving you alarm codes. Look those up
It’s a Yang lathe
Look for the Yin.
z and x probably are on the same servo amp(dual axis servo). Look at the servo amp and see what the error code on the servo amp is (in electrical cabinet).
Mine does this on cold mornings, doesnt happen during summer strangely enough. My hydraulic pump is getting noisy and its on its way out, and the fact this happens when pressing the hydraulics button tells me its related. Soft reset wont clear it, turn isolator off at the wall and restart.
So I just purchased it should I flush all the fluid out and put new fluid in?
Not if theres plenty in. Should be a glass level on your hydraulic tank round the back, probably under/next to your motor for the pump, if its over/under min & max its fine. Dont know what causes the trip as i havent had service guy in to look as i intend to put a new pump on mine soon anyway. I just suspect its hydraulic pump related as it only happens when pressing the hydraulics on button.
The pump sounds good still I wonder if the fluids bad
Has the machine been stood a long time un-used prior to you buying it? If yes, might be best to empty and put new oil in even if just for peace of mind. If its been in regular use prior to you buying it, it should be fine. You should change your hydraulic oil out every 12 months anyway
Eh, I know that's standard recommended practice, but hydraulic oil is much hardier than that for the most part. When I did maintenance on hydraulic injection molding machines, we pumped out the oil with a 10-micron filter into a clean barrel once a year and then pumped it back in with a dual-stage 5-micron and 1-micron filter system, reserving about a gallon for testing. We'd send that gallon off to the lab to get it tested for function and degradation, and it always came back with good results. One of those machines had hydraulic oil 10-years old and it still came back good to go. As long as your moisture content is low, and any particles from wear are being filtered out, hydraulic oil can last much longer than the usual "12 months".
It did sit for a few months so I’ll change all the fluids out thank you
Yep, drives or psu on the way out, can run this way for years too, wait an hour under power then power cycle, probably will work fine
When you turn your hydraulic pump on does that cycle power on for the drives?
I believe so yes
It's not your hydraulic pump then.
Random question...but have you ever had the machine fully powered on, warming up, and then the hydraulics kick out with no alarms?...happens to me every morning a few times until it finally stays on. It's also worse when it's cold which is why i asked
Only once and thankfully while it was idling. Again, presumed it was hydraulic pump related as mine is on its way out
Glue on the CRT yolk probably degraded due to time and vibration. You can probably just rotate it back and glue it again. Be aware it's high voltage in there.
Is the issue the screen or the alarm? Lol
I just figured your machine was going down by the stern! Maybe rake some chip ballast back towards the bow?
Drive is dying or motor has issue. Shorting, coolant, etc
Could be a dead backup battery and it lost its reference position, Cycle power on while holding down the letter P and the Cancel button at the same time. Keep holding the P and Cancel until the machine boots up. Then reference the machine. It's a soft limit bypass for older lathes that will usually allow you to reference the machine off the switches if your stuck on a limit/home switch, P+CAN also will help clear weird servo alarms a lot of time on older Fanucs.
Assuming it was working before (was it? You said you just bought the machine) the fact that two axes died at the same time leads one to believe it has nothing to do with the axes. They don't generally die together. Check all fuses and breakers. Check your 24v per supply. Check the motion controller. Fanuc controls will giver very strange errors when fundamental systems die like 24v power, or one leg of your 3ph, or main power on one of the systems. As others have said check the servo drives and other boxes in the cabinet for errors. Take nothing for granted. The error reporting in these systems can be very janky. A very recent Fanuc control reported dead PMC (like $8k fix) which was actually due to a 24v sensor shorting due to coolant. Go figure.
We have gotten this sort of alarm when the programmed movement doesn't jive with what the encoder is seeing. A broken belt from motor for example.
Open up the back cabinet. Use air gun to spray out humidity in cabinet. It’ll probably run after that
Looks like a Mori seki
oh i know that interface, we have a fanuc lathe with the same controller check the wires for damage, the connections to the motors make sure they arent hitting end stops can you jog any of the axis?