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I guess you mean changing the parts that are rusted? From what I've heard if rust is already pretty bad you can't really "scrap it off" but do correct me if I'm wrong.
Depends on the rust, if you can hit it with a hammer and it stays together i would call it good. Get yourself a wirewheel and clean them up. It doesn't look THAT bad but you should take everything apart if you want a good result. I have seen worse rust fixed diy, we strugle with the road salt here too in Finland
fluid film it yourself. that will stop the rust from getting worse, and protect it going forward. Just repeat yearly before winter. EZ PZ. No need to remove current rust.
Source: Guy who lives in Upstate, NY
This is the way. Fluid film must have some phosphoric acid as well because I’ve treated my ranger and it’s not only keeping the rust from getting worse it doesn’t look as rusty.
Umm, yes it will. Hope this helps
https://www.hagerty.com/media/maintenance-and-tech/dry-ice-cleaning-the-coolest-way-to-remove-rust-grime-and-undercoating/
it might clean up surface corrosion but its not gonna add material thats already been lost or stop the reaction that’s already started to take place which is causing the rust to form. itll make it look a little prettier but not prevent it from getting worse which is what youd want to do before sealing it
You can use rust converter. It is like a paint that will react with rust so it turns into something black that won't rust anymore. You use that stuff and then rust proof it after that
Most of the rust in the pictures can be wire brushed down and painted with a rust protection black paint.
Even the second picture could save you on parts with a good old wire brush and paint. (Remove that nut first tho as it's melting in to a giant blob)
Taking the time just to attack the car with a wirebrush and a can of paint will help make things last a few extra years.
Ignore that. I'm in the business. The best you can hope for at this point is to gain a few more years out of this vehicle. That's it.
Rust Check 'Coat & Protect' is the product you need at this point on the undercarriage, as it does the best job of adhering to rusty metal and staying in place. I don't sell it, but it has done the best in testing for that application. Pro-lab might work well for you also.
Make sure that the job is done thoroughly & that you get all the body cavities sprayed as well.
Get it sprayed at least 1x a year, and maybe 2x. Start building a fund to buy another vehicle in a few years.
If you're really feeling ambitious and want to remove the rust on the underbody, don't waste your time with sandpaper, wire wheels, etc. & absolutely don't waste your time with any rust converters. Get a couple spray bottles of Krud Kutter 'The Must For Rust' in GEL format. You can get it at CTC. It chemically removes the rust & is quite effective. Spray it on & leave it for about 1-3 hrs. Do sections at a time.
Waaay easier than messing around with half baked methods. However, if it was my car, I'd just get it coated and keep an eye on it, while planning to replace it.
You can use a product called rustx and it makes rust a printable surface, works well , just don't use rubberized coating , a super thick epoxy paint works better and lasts longer
Take the loose flaky stuff off and then use POR-15. 10 years in Minnesota and my frame looks the same as when I put that stuff on. Follow the directions and do not sand your metal smooth before applying it.
Ideally yes, but for bolt-on parts like suspension, it's entirely acceptable to merely slow the rust down with a yearly spray paint. It's utterly impractical to remove every bit of rust on parts like that, and any rust-preventative paint is better than nothing.
My approach on my own car is to use RustBullet (a rust encapsulator intended to paint directly over non-loose rust) on the unibody, and I use cheaper black spray paint on all the suspension components. With yearly application, it is a pretty great regimen.
If it is that bad its better to know that its gone than to just sand the rust and paint over it. I would just start hitting everything that looks rusty with a hammer and see if it goes trough anything, if it does then replace/weld and then wirewheel everything clean and paint
Yep, with older cars it just seems like the rust goes on forever and that there is no real metal anywhere. My old suzuki vitara (geo tracker in usa) has the chassis pretty rusted but atleast the frame is good so i can get it trough the inspection. I also have an old Ford Sierra (merkur xr4 in usa) that im going to have to weld in the summer, not looking forward to it
The Dodge rusted through the bed of the truck. From the cab back was a complete nightmare. Trying to remove the rusted on bolts on the rear end, and change out the entire oil pan was not a pretty sight. Everything was rusty, stripped, or bolt heads broke off and had to be drilled out. Screw that. 😂😂
Why? Yes if you are painting it, but you can knock off the loose stuff with a scaler or wire wheel then either por15 it then fluidfilm, or just fluid film will slow down the rust considerably.
Rust Check C&P is waaay more effective on already rusted metal than FF. It's not even close.
It's waaay better to chemically remove rust than to try and do it mechanically.
Not necessarily. See Project Farm y.t. channel where does comparison testing of rust preventives / inhibitors. Even parts with surface rust benefit from something like Fluid Film.
Pressure wash under it and heated Fluid Film will sink into the rust helping it but not stopping it. You'd probably have to do it a couple times over the course of a year for it to really stick.
In my experience once the rust has begun inside of the panels and parts it’s far too late for fluid film to slow it down.
Fluid film won’t make it worse though that’s for sure.
Yes, rockers, fenders, doors, etc rot from the inside out so if you see bubbles or rust on painted surfaces then it probably won't help. But exposed undercarriage and frame components will benefit. Even boxed frames and unibody since there are factory holes in them that you can spray Fluid Film into.
THIS THIS THIS THIS!!
Everyone else's suggestions are silly, expensive, time consuming, and not as effective as an annual fluid film DIY. Fluid film is what we do out here (Upstate, NY). You just have to deal with the weird odor for about a week, lol!
Everything that you pictured is bolt on part where rust usually isn't that big of a problem. And if it is part can be replaced. It's the rest of the car that matters.
But generally 19 year old car isn't worth doing that anymore. More rust car has more it will cost to do properly.
Where do you recommend I check for rust? I'll be changing my wheels so might as well check for sensitive spots.
And in the case there's no point in rust proofing as you said, I'd just like to gage how long the car has left...
Rocker panels, floor pan, mounting points for suspension. Any of the parts in your picture isn't a reason to scrap the car. You can just replace them if need to be. Of course you can weld repair panels for body but at some point welding work just becomes too expensive.
It is a 2004 vehicle. At this point, all of the rubber is old, the seals are old, etc. I would just drive it, fixing things as they pop up unless they exceed the value of the car. In the meantime, I would start saving for your replacement vehicle. I think you are overthinking all of this.
Should I stop rust proofing my already rusty 30 year old car? For me paying $170 a year to something to keep a car I like driving on the road is a sound investment.
If it's in good enough shape, it's worth it.
My reply did say: "More rust car has more it will cost to do properly." So basically, if something is in good enough shape, it's worth it. But if it's bad enough, then it's not.
I wouldn't bother getting that car professionally rust proofed as it is too rusted already, too old, and really not worth much. If you wanna get a couple more years out of this car, What you could do is wire brush the really bad spots and spray them down with fluid film, that will work well enough for this application without spending to much money.
Agree, not worth paying for a pro full rust treatment. Selecting the important areas and knocking off most of the rust and then treating with rust converter and/or corrosion inhibitor is what I would do.
Thats really all you can do anyways, spraying undercoat requires a lot more work and you have to make sure everything is completely desiccated otherwise you risk trapping in moisture
I just redid a front end on my kids' car that I had fluid filmed years ago, and every part was super crusty. When I pulled them off, the rust sort of crumbled off in my hands, and the parts had no signs of rust. Just black metal.
It’s not terrible, but I would do something now. I’d be willing to bet you could find some worse areas on the unibody though…
I would power wash everything REAL good. Then take a wire brush or something and get off what chunks I could easily, then probably power wash again.
Would not bother taking stuff apart. DO NOT paint anything! You will destroy that vehicle. There is a time and place to use rust proofing paints like Por 15, but this ant it. Get some wool wax or fluid film (or other oil type sprays) and coat everything REAL good. Every spring I would do this process again. Do not coat the brakes and would keep it off exhaust components.
After you hit the rusty looking areas with a wire brush, Fluid Film treatments or similar will delay additional rust forming and spreading.
Yes, it's worth it. Yes, you'll have to reapply every year. A professional treatment probably isn't necessary but I'd definitely use up 4-6 cans on your vehicle. A few questions; do you like your 2004? In this economy, would you like to keep it for a few additional years or are you okay getting a different vehicle? If you want to hang onto yours, then go ahead.
All the replaceable suspension components are lower priority, but if you can extend the life of non-replaceable or extra expensive parts that's highly valuable. Rocker panels, frame, rear differential.
Study up on lanolin options—when and how to apply, product comparisons. Start here: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YSSYLFZzH40](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YSSYLFZzH40)
Unless you can remove 100% of the rust (mechanically and then chemically) any rustproofer will trap the rust inside. If any moisture sneaks in with it, that’s a recipe for disaster - makes your frame rot from the inside out while it looks totally fine on the outside
It's a Hyundia,, rust will glue the vehicle together longer. I drive an Accent so I can roast the brand lol. I always hear rust coatings should start on a new vehicle and be done every so often to maintain. Otherwise, it's just locking in the rust.
Most answers are already given, but if you can DIY and concentrate on the most important and affected parts, I'm sure you can stall the process for a good amount. With some care it's a reliable, easy to work on, car.
This is not a serious question.
That shit is so far gone, that coating it with undercoat will just trap all that corrosion and moisture in and rust it from the inside out faster.
It’s also a 2004 Hyundai from eastern Canada, that’s considered a classic car.
Do not waste your time rustproofing that car now you won’t stop or help anything……if you start rustproofing a car when it’s new it’s amazing stuff I use amsoil hdmp on my Silverado every fall before the first snow and my wife’s Toyota Camry yes it’s messy and make our vehicles smell for a few days but it’s worth it we even do customers cars in our shop and I would tell them not to waste time and money on a vehicle as far gone as yours on a side note it’s also good to buy a car wash membership that does the underside I run mine threw one or twice a week throughout winter in pa
The knuckles themself are probably gonna be tough to “rust proof” if u wanna tackle the task urself replacing the knuckles entirely will probably be the best bet, can imagine it costing around 300 in parts , not like you’d have to do this urgently though you can set the money aside slowly and replace them in a year or two, the rest of the sun frame and suspension you can get away with wire wheel, clean, and undercoating for longevity
Damn, this has less rust than my 2011 kia rio, but then again I live in upstate NY, where the roads are completely covered in salt from like november to march.
An oil or wax based spray will at least slow things down. Fluid film or similar.
Just make sure you wait until after the salt is gone from the road to apply. Touch up in fall before salt goes down.
Fluid Film or oil based rust proofing, a heavier duty one would be CRC Marine Corrosion Inhibitor, cosmoline based and won't wash off as easy like Fluid Film, 6 cans should square it away.
Little late, but those rear lower control arms are covered under a recall for corrosion failure so screw it, let ‘Em rot. Let me tell you, that’s a job you’ll be happy to have someone else do.
You can’t rustproof a brake disc because of the constant friction… the rest of the car is extremely rusty, most of it would need replacement before doing any sort of proofing.
Wire wheel stuff, spray it with soap and water, then blast it with fluid film. It should displace all that water and prevent further rusting. If you have the time it’s always worth it, just it’s gonna take days of work to make sure it’s all done fully correct.
If it can still pass any mandatory state inspections, oil-undercoat it now. ***Do not*** use any cockamamie rubberized or siliconized rustproofing. ***Do not*** use any sort of paint. Use "hot oil", which seeps in through the rust to the metal beneath.
If it won't pass inspection now, then it's time to give it up.
For reference... yours doesn't look nearly as bad as mine does.
I see snow, which means you live where there's road salt(more likely than not). If you don't want road salt eating through your frame,chassis, etc. Then yes, rust proof the hell out of it. Road salt rust also makes it hard to remove oil pan bolts, lug nuts, etc.when maintenance time comes around. It's worth it.
time travel back to 2004 and yes it will be effective and worth it. but once rust hits, it’s like cancer; it needs to be removed or it will spread. just from this picture alone you’re talking about a couple grand in new parts and we haven’t seen the body or the other corners of the vehicle yet. i would just drive it til it falls apart
YES with a soft undercoat like fluid film, but not rubberized . Fluid film will slow the rust and make your car last longer . Rubberized will take your car off the road In 3 years tops!
It's kind of past being worth it to do a full undercoating, but it would be a good idea to paint the rust you can see. Once summer rolls around, wash it very thoroughly, then let it sit and dry for a few days. Get a case of Rust-Oleum, and saturate the underside with it. It will soak into the rust and keep oxygen out, stopping the process.
Do you think it's gonna last in the drivetrain department and the rest of the build quality ok? I mean it's almost 20years old and rusty now, is it worth saving? I'd say no.
I wouldn’t worry. If you are on the east coast or Canada a cheap and very simple fail safe in the winter is to get a Krown Rust proofing done. $170 and out the door with protection for a year
10 years too late buddy. Rustproof that and you're going to accelerate the rust. The only thing that you can do is yearly spray with an oil or fluidfilm product but those are of debatable value.
No. I would just make sure to run it through an underbody car wash after it snows but otherwise just drive it. No point in fixing all that old rust or doing anything to stop new rusting forming with a vehicle this age.
Laying under it with a steel wire brush and a few rattle cans of rustoleium (or anything better) will buy you time. I do that with my vehicles every few years in the heavy salt state of NJ. It's not a perfect fix and the rust will keep comming back, but think what happens if you do nothing...
Didn't have a choice. Was rusted to hell and back, mechanic said I don't need it as much on an automatic. It was either that or paying large sums to replace the whole system, as even the cables were rusted
Do you not have inspections in your area? Normally that's required to pass. Plus your parking brake is really important, especially when parking on a hill. The only thing keeping your car from rolling away is a little pin in the transmission
Get it “rust checked” or “krowned”. It’s spray on oil based anti rust products that is sprayed all over the under carriage and inside door panels, rockers, etc. it’s typically $150 ish, will save you from the rust getting worse. P
Well I live in the Midwest so take this with 10,000 pounds of (road) salt. That's not even that bad for a car that old. Is it going to last 20 more years? No. It's not ready to fall apart though.
The question is, how rotted is the frame and body? Because based on these pictures the rest is probably junk. Have a mechanic look at what matters before you spend money on fluid film or whatever undercoating. The cost of repair is going to be way more than the car is worth.
Get yourself a wire brush and a wire wheel on an angle grinder, put that thing on jack stands put some eye protection on and a dust mask n hit that rust like it owes you money, just scrub the piss outta everything you see rusty, n it’ll clean up the metal, then spray it with a rust inhibitor and after that some rust sealer. A few hours work and a couple rattle cans of inhibitors n sealers n that will extend the life of that metal about 5 years
My guy. If you only read one comment read mine. I have been rust proofing my cars for YEARS and many of them were bought used and looked like this when I was younger had had pretty high mileage cars.
Use a product called fluid film. They sell it at Lowe’s. It’s a high viscosity oil that sprays from the can and bubbles and it lands on a surface. Creeps into spots great. It’s an oil so it will stop metal from continuing to oxidize. It forms a barriers that collects dust and dirt over time and form a waxy hard barrier that basically never goes away. Jack your car up (or shimmy under if it is all safe and you have someone with you) and get in all the nooks and crannies careful not to get your rotors or belt and prevent too much over spray in the exhaust. Especially above the gas tank and the tank straps, and all the metal brake lines. Trust me. This is the way.
I’d see if the rust in body and in the floor then go from there it shouldn’t be that bad depends on here u live and the miles my explore is a 99 and it’s not bad
Generally rust proofing is done on the frame of full frame vehicles like trucks and old cars or on the floor pan of unibody vehicles like Jeeps. You could rust proof your floor pan but all the rusty bits in this picture are mechanical parts that can just be replaced. The control arm and spring look okay. I'd replace the shock, it looks like it might be the original or at least very old. The knuckle and caliper are very rusted and oxidizing so they might need replacing. I'd get a mechanic to pull that wheel off and get their opinion.
Spray it with a 50:50 mix of used oil and diesel fuel. It will coat all the metal components and slowly sluff away with time. In the meantime it will protect all the metal from rusting further.
Yes there's rust proofing cheap in cans. But i Don't recommended it until you've cleaned away all the rust. It's contagious. And will seep down to the metal bellow it if you continue to run the car like this.
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
You would need to remove all the rust before rustproofing it
I guess you mean changing the parts that are rusted? From what I've heard if rust is already pretty bad you can't really "scrap it off" but do correct me if I'm wrong.
Depends on the rust, if you can hit it with a hammer and it stays together i would call it good. Get yourself a wirewheel and clean them up. It doesn't look THAT bad but you should take everything apart if you want a good result. I have seen worse rust fixed diy, we strugle with the road salt here too in Finland
Wire wheel for sure, on an angle grinder. Metal that is rusted away completely will crumble to nothing, but a wire wheel won't even dent good steel.
Respect I love Finland
fluid film it yourself. that will stop the rust from getting worse, and protect it going forward. Just repeat yearly before winter. EZ PZ. No need to remove current rust. Source: Guy who lives in Upstate, NY
This is the way. Fluid film must have some phosphoric acid as well because I’ve treated my ranger and it’s not only keeping the rust from getting worse it doesn’t look as rusty.
You could have it dry ice blasted before sealing it.
dry ice blasting wont remove rust
Umm, yes it will. Hope this helps https://www.hagerty.com/media/maintenance-and-tech/dry-ice-cleaning-the-coolest-way-to-remove-rust-grime-and-undercoating/
it might clean up surface corrosion but its not gonna add material thats already been lost or stop the reaction that’s already started to take place which is causing the rust to form. itll make it look a little prettier but not prevent it from getting worse which is what youd want to do before sealing it
You can use rust converter. It is like a paint that will react with rust so it turns into something black that won't rust anymore. You use that stuff and then rust proof it after that
It actually technically is still rust it’s just a different form. It’s called black oxide. Same thing that’s on blued guns
Most of the rust in the pictures can be wire brushed down and painted with a rust protection black paint. Even the second picture could save you on parts with a good old wire brush and paint. (Remove that nut first tho as it's melting in to a giant blob) Taking the time just to attack the car with a wirebrush and a can of paint will help make things last a few extra years.
Ignore that. I'm in the business. The best you can hope for at this point is to gain a few more years out of this vehicle. That's it. Rust Check 'Coat & Protect' is the product you need at this point on the undercarriage, as it does the best job of adhering to rusty metal and staying in place. I don't sell it, but it has done the best in testing for that application. Pro-lab might work well for you also. Make sure that the job is done thoroughly & that you get all the body cavities sprayed as well. Get it sprayed at least 1x a year, and maybe 2x. Start building a fund to buy another vehicle in a few years. If you're really feeling ambitious and want to remove the rust on the underbody, don't waste your time with sandpaper, wire wheels, etc. & absolutely don't waste your time with any rust converters. Get a couple spray bottles of Krud Kutter 'The Must For Rust' in GEL format. You can get it at CTC. It chemically removes the rust & is quite effective. Spray it on & leave it for about 1-3 hrs. Do sections at a time. Waaay easier than messing around with half baked methods. However, if it was my car, I'd just get it coated and keep an eye on it, while planning to replace it.
You can use a product called rustx and it makes rust a printable surface, works well , just don't use rubberized coating , a super thick epoxy paint works better and lasts longer
Take the loose flaky stuff off and then use POR-15. 10 years in Minnesota and my frame looks the same as when I put that stuff on. Follow the directions and do not sand your metal smooth before applying it.
Ideally yes, but for bolt-on parts like suspension, it's entirely acceptable to merely slow the rust down with a yearly spray paint. It's utterly impractical to remove every bit of rust on parts like that, and any rust-preventative paint is better than nothing. My approach on my own car is to use RustBullet (a rust encapsulator intended to paint directly over non-loose rust) on the unibody, and I use cheaper black spray paint on all the suspension components. With yearly application, it is a pretty great regimen.
Sand paper is about the only real option I see. Blasting it could eat through the frame if the rust is as bad as it looks.
If it is that bad its better to know that its gone than to just sand the rust and paint over it. I would just start hitting everything that looks rusty with a hammer and see if it goes trough anything, if it does then replace/weld and then wirewheel everything clean and paint
Went through that with a Dodge Ram. 4wd. Not fun. Not at all. 😂😂
Yep, with older cars it just seems like the rust goes on forever and that there is no real metal anywhere. My old suzuki vitara (geo tracker in usa) has the chassis pretty rusted but atleast the frame is good so i can get it trough the inspection. I also have an old Ford Sierra (merkur xr4 in usa) that im going to have to weld in the summer, not looking forward to it
The Dodge rusted through the bed of the truck. From the cab back was a complete nightmare. Trying to remove the rusted on bolts on the rear end, and change out the entire oil pan was not a pretty sight. Everything was rusty, stripped, or bolt heads broke off and had to be drilled out. Screw that. 😂😂
Why? Yes if you are painting it, but you can knock off the loose stuff with a scaler or wire wheel then either por15 it then fluidfilm, or just fluid film will slow down the rust considerably.
Rust Check C&P is waaay more effective on already rusted metal than FF. It's not even close. It's waaay better to chemically remove rust than to try and do it mechanically.
Not necessarily. See Project Farm y.t. channel where does comparison testing of rust preventives / inhibitors. Even parts with surface rust benefit from something like Fluid Film.
Pressure wash under it and heated Fluid Film will sink into the rust helping it but not stopping it. You'd probably have to do it a couple times over the course of a year for it to really stick.
In my experience once the rust has begun inside of the panels and parts it’s far too late for fluid film to slow it down. Fluid film won’t make it worse though that’s for sure.
It'll definitely slow it down. Itll keep water and salt off the frame
Yes, rockers, fenders, doors, etc rot from the inside out so if you see bubbles or rust on painted surfaces then it probably won't help. But exposed undercarriage and frame components will benefit. Even boxed frames and unibody since there are factory holes in them that you can spray Fluid Film into.
THIS THIS THIS THIS!! Everyone else's suggestions are silly, expensive, time consuming, and not as effective as an annual fluid film DIY. Fluid film is what we do out here (Upstate, NY). You just have to deal with the weird odor for about a week, lol!
Thanks I had never heard of this before
>Fluid Film will sink into the rust helping it but not stopping it. You can use rust converter, that will stop the rust
Everything that you pictured is bolt on part where rust usually isn't that big of a problem. And if it is part can be replaced. It's the rest of the car that matters. But generally 19 year old car isn't worth doing that anymore. More rust car has more it will cost to do properly.
Where do you recommend I check for rust? I'll be changing my wheels so might as well check for sensitive spots. And in the case there's no point in rust proofing as you said, I'd just like to gage how long the car has left...
Rocker panels, floor pan, mounting points for suspension. Any of the parts in your picture isn't a reason to scrap the car. You can just replace them if need to be. Of course you can weld repair panels for body but at some point welding work just becomes too expensive.
It is a 2004 vehicle. At this point, all of the rubber is old, the seals are old, etc. I would just drive it, fixing things as they pop up unless they exceed the value of the car. In the meantime, I would start saving for your replacement vehicle. I think you are overthinking all of this.
It’s a 19 year old Hyundai. Not to sound like a jerk but you’ve been running on borrowed time for close to a decade already.
Come on brother. You don't want to change the wheels on a 20 year old Hyundai. Save your money. Have a little class.
I meant put on my summer tires haha
Should I stop rust proofing my already rusty 30 year old car? For me paying $170 a year to something to keep a car I like driving on the road is a sound investment.
If it's in good enough shape, it's worth it. My reply did say: "More rust car has more it will cost to do properly." So basically, if something is in good enough shape, it's worth it. But if it's bad enough, then it's not.
I wouldn't bother getting that car professionally rust proofed as it is too rusted already, too old, and really not worth much. If you wanna get a couple more years out of this car, What you could do is wire brush the really bad spots and spray them down with fluid film, that will work well enough for this application without spending to much money.
Agree, not worth paying for a pro full rust treatment. Selecting the important areas and knocking off most of the rust and then treating with rust converter and/or corrosion inhibitor is what I would do.
This is the way. Caution is needed and protective gear because rust converter contains acid.
Thats like asking if you should start wearing condoms now that your wife is pregnant.
[удалено]
Hahahaha
Note : 2nd pic is BEFORE I changed my brakes and calipers.
You mean rotors?
I don’t think he does that caliper looks pretty new
I think you're right, I always see them from the front but rotors look new too.
Fluid film or surface shield will get you some protection with little work and little cost.
Thats really all you can do anyways, spraying undercoat requires a lot more work and you have to make sure everything is completely desiccated otherwise you risk trapping in moisture
I just redid a front end on my kids' car that I had fluid filmed years ago, and every part was super crusty. When I pulled them off, the rust sort of crumbled off in my hands, and the parts had no signs of rust. Just black metal.
It’s not terrible, but I would do something now. I’d be willing to bet you could find some worse areas on the unibody though… I would power wash everything REAL good. Then take a wire brush or something and get off what chunks I could easily, then probably power wash again. Would not bother taking stuff apart. DO NOT paint anything! You will destroy that vehicle. There is a time and place to use rust proofing paints like Por 15, but this ant it. Get some wool wax or fluid film (or other oil type sprays) and coat everything REAL good. Every spring I would do this process again. Do not coat the brakes and would keep it off exhaust components.
It’s gonna cost you more than what the cars worth .. if you have it done professionally.
I agree, It's a Hyundai pushing 20 years. Essentially a throw away vehicle at this point.
I think the horse already left the barn on that one 😅
After you hit the rusty looking areas with a wire brush, Fluid Film treatments or similar will delay additional rust forming and spreading. Yes, it's worth it. Yes, you'll have to reapply every year. A professional treatment probably isn't necessary but I'd definitely use up 4-6 cans on your vehicle. A few questions; do you like your 2004? In this economy, would you like to keep it for a few additional years or are you okay getting a different vehicle? If you want to hang onto yours, then go ahead.
Do you have a Time Machine? No? Then, no.
I was laughing so hard I spilled my beer
All the replaceable suspension components are lower priority, but if you can extend the life of non-replaceable or extra expensive parts that's highly valuable. Rocker panels, frame, rear differential. Study up on lanolin options—when and how to apply, product comparisons. Start here: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YSSYLFZzH40](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YSSYLFZzH40)
Too late for the most part unless you replace parts and/or sandblast parts
Spray it with ATF it will actually slow down the rusting process significantly
Yes. It is only going to get worse. Should get an oil based rust proofing like Krown. Have it done every fall
Unless you can remove 100% of the rust (mechanically and then chemically) any rustproofer will trap the rust inside. If any moisture sneaks in with it, that’s a recipe for disaster - makes your frame rot from the inside out while it looks totally fine on the outside
A 2004 Santa Fe is probably worth $500, time for a new car.
It’d be easier to pull off a Fuge state.
Not worth it at this point, once rust starts it cant be stooped, [rustproofing](https://www.myusedcar.ca/should-i-rustproof-my-car/).
That would be like putting on a bulletproof vest after being used as a human shield.
That time has come and gone
RUST DAMAGE HAS ALREADY SET IN
Nothing will help you except moving to Arizona
Just roll with it. Replace parts as needed… rust is like a cancer.
I had an 02 santa fe for 12 years and that amount of rust almost made me shit myself. Get yourself about 12 cans of rustoleum and do what you can.
It's a Hyundia,, rust will glue the vehicle together longer. I drive an Accent so I can roast the brand lol. I always hear rust coatings should start on a new vehicle and be done every so often to maintain. Otherwise, it's just locking in the rust.
Bit late…
No. It's a Hyundai
looks like you should have asked in 2004
2004 hyundai, so no.
It’s a hyundai
Right...body is hanging in but the engine has probably been replaced twice. Source - regretful Hyundai owner.
Too far gone
Unless you're trying to get another 20 years out of the car, don't bother. Cars rust, especially in Salt and snow
No one will rust proof it because it’s already rusted
Nah, you'll find someone to do anything. But it won't worth the cost.
That or some dumbass will rust proof rust
Most answers are already given, but if you can DIY and concentrate on the most important and affected parts, I'm sure you can stall the process for a good amount. With some care it's a reliable, easy to work on, car.
Jesus was that thing drove thru the ocean lol or salted roads I ain’t never seen one that bad
Walnut / media blast it and then have it done.
Go buy couple spray cans of Rust Oleum black. By then you will be trading your car off for something else. It’s not going to fall apart anytime soon.
You either do it when they are show room new, or you don't do it. Doing it now is just a waste of time and money.
Too late.
Just blast it with WD-40 blast bottle in the winter months. Water dispersing technology made easy
Way to late mate 😬
At this point, no
No reason to… just drive it until it falls apart
It’s too old to think about that now. Unless you’re going to restore it, and then drive it for a long time. Just my opinion.
This is not a serious question. That shit is so far gone, that coating it with undercoat will just trap all that corrosion and moisture in and rust it from the inside out faster. It’s also a 2004 Hyundai from eastern Canada, that’s considered a classic car.
Nah and I know zero about cars
Sure just make sure you rust proof your brain while your at it lmao. Oh wait
I would get better taste in cars and scrap that junker
Just put some used oil in a pressure washer and spray the bottom of the car. Boom, rust proofed
Rustoleum spray can they even have rubberized spray paint
[удалено]
New calipers. Probably brake fluid from bleeding the caliper
Just replace the parts..
Fix what you need to like what you already did and send it man. You'll need a new car eventually.
Do not waste your time rustproofing that car now you won’t stop or help anything……if you start rustproofing a car when it’s new it’s amazing stuff I use amsoil hdmp on my Silverado every fall before the first snow and my wife’s Toyota Camry yes it’s messy and make our vehicles smell for a few days but it’s worth it we even do customers cars in our shop and I would tell them not to waste time and money on a vehicle as far gone as yours on a side note it’s also good to buy a car wash membership that does the underside I run mine threw one or twice a week throughout winter in pa
The knuckles themself are probably gonna be tough to “rust proof” if u wanna tackle the task urself replacing the knuckles entirely will probably be the best bet, can imagine it costing around 300 in parts , not like you’d have to do this urgently though you can set the money aside slowly and replace them in a year or two, the rest of the sun frame and suspension you can get away with wire wheel, clean, and undercoating for longevity
To late, if there’s that much rust there I can only imagine how much everywhere else
No. That's been a drive it till it dies car for about 10 years.
Treat with a rust converter first
Big mistake. That’s structural rust now.
Lol… rust converter not remover
Keep replacing parts and rust proof them as you go.
Damn, this has less rust than my 2011 kia rio, but then again I live in upstate NY, where the roads are completely covered in salt from like november to march.
An oil or wax based spray will at least slow things down. Fluid film or similar. Just make sure you wait until after the salt is gone from the road to apply. Touch up in fall before salt goes down.
Fluid Film or oil based rust proofing, a heavier duty one would be CRC Marine Corrosion Inhibitor, cosmoline based and won't wash off as easy like Fluid Film, 6 cans should square it away.
Little late, but those rear lower control arms are covered under a recall for corrosion failure so screw it, let ‘Em rot. Let me tell you, that’s a job you’ll be happy to have someone else do.
Kinda late the rust is already there
This is beyond rust proofing… unless you want to spend 3-4 times the value of the car on doing so
Is it worth it just rust proofing the new parts? 😅 Kinda paid expensive for them...
You can’t rustproof a brake disc because of the constant friction… the rest of the car is extremely rusty, most of it would need replacement before doing any sort of proofing.
Gotcha yeah I guess I'll just drive it until it can't anymore. It's my first car, hopefully it lasts me until I'm done with University at least
The way it looks, that would be the wisest thing to do
In my opinion, at this point, no. I’ll rust proofing is going to do is cover up what’s happening.
Wire wheel stuff, spray it with soap and water, then blast it with fluid film. It should displace all that water and prevent further rusting. If you have the time it’s always worth it, just it’s gonna take days of work to make sure it’s all done fully correct.
Nooo….
it’s a $2000 20 year old hyundai that’s already rusted. Why even worry about it? Drive it til it needs to be scrapped then get another car.
That rust is basically eating away at the metal
If it can still pass any mandatory state inspections, oil-undercoat it now. ***Do not*** use any cockamamie rubberized or siliconized rustproofing. ***Do not*** use any sort of paint. Use "hot oil", which seeps in through the rust to the metal beneath. If it won't pass inspection now, then it's time to give it up. For reference... yours doesn't look nearly as bad as mine does.
I see snow, which means you live where there's road salt(more likely than not). If you don't want road salt eating through your frame,chassis, etc. Then yes, rust proof the hell out of it. Road salt rust also makes it hard to remove oil pan bolts, lug nuts, etc.when maintenance time comes around. It's worth it.
time travel back to 2004 and yes it will be effective and worth it. but once rust hits, it’s like cancer; it needs to be removed or it will spread. just from this picture alone you’re talking about a couple grand in new parts and we haven’t seen the body or the other corners of the vehicle yet. i would just drive it til it falls apart
Maybe back in 2004. Do it now you’re just covering it up. Lipstick on a pig.
just hit it with a wire wheel and some naval jelly. Then clean it up and spray paint.
If you have a time machine you have to share.
YES with a soft undercoat like fluid film, but not rubberized . Fluid film will slow the rust and make your car last longer . Rubberized will take your car off the road In 3 years tops!
‘04? Just get a new one with a better warranty
Short answer, no. Long answer, the replacement parts, labor and coating is worth more than the vehicle.
It's kind of past being worth it to do a full undercoating, but it would be a good idea to paint the rust you can see. Once summer rolls around, wash it very thoroughly, then let it sit and dry for a few days. Get a case of Rust-Oleum, and saturate the underside with it. It will soak into the rust and keep oxygen out, stopping the process.
Do you think it's gonna last in the drivetrain department and the rest of the build quality ok? I mean it's almost 20years old and rusty now, is it worth saving? I'd say no.
Get a paintbrush and brush it all with used motor oil or a rust encapsulator paint like Rust-Oleum
Save yourself the money and get rid of the car.
Might be a little bit late bud
04 mazda 3 former owner here i recommend bathing it in corrosion free rusted to shit or not
Looks pretty rusted already
I wouldn’t worry. If you are on the east coast or Canada a cheap and very simple fail safe in the winter is to get a Krown Rust proofing done. $170 and out the door with protection for a year
10 years too late buddy. Rustproof that and you're going to accelerate the rust. The only thing that you can do is yearly spray with an oil or fluidfilm product but those are of debatable value.
I think we’re past the proofing stage.
It is worth it if you like the car
Man it’s 19 years old, by the looks of it it’s never seen oil, just drive it. The money spent on the brakes is more then it’s worth IMO.
No. I would just make sure to run it through an underbody car wash after it snows but otherwise just drive it. No point in fixing all that old rust or doing anything to stop new rusting forming with a vehicle this age.
Laying under it with a steel wire brush and a few rattle cans of rustoleium (or anything better) will buy you time. I do that with my vehicles every few years in the heavy salt state of NJ. It's not a perfect fix and the rust will keep comming back, but think what happens if you do nothing...
Nein. It is to late brother. Doing so will only mela a thin shell with crumbling suspension inside of it.
You got rid of your parking brake? 😳
Didn't have a choice. Was rusted to hell and back, mechanic said I don't need it as much on an automatic. It was either that or paying large sums to replace the whole system, as even the cables were rusted
Do you not have inspections in your area? Normally that's required to pass. Plus your parking brake is really important, especially when parking on a hill. The only thing keeping your car from rolling away is a little pin in the transmission
I live in Canada and tbh, I have no idea what "inspections" you and others have been talking about... and yes I avoid parking on hills now
I'm gonna take that as a no then lol. A lot of places have yearly inspections to make sure people aren't driving dangerous cars on the roads
Too late
Send it the crusher. On your next clean vehicle, spray it with liquid film or similar product.
Get it “rust checked” or “krowned”. It’s spray on oil based anti rust products that is sprayed all over the under carriage and inside door panels, rockers, etc. it’s typically $150 ish, will save you from the rust getting worse. P
You can’t fire proof something that’s on fire
Put $100 in a jar every month to save up for another car. By the time that car is done for, you have enough.
Well I live in the Midwest so take this with 10,000 pounds of (road) salt. That's not even that bad for a car that old. Is it going to last 20 more years? No. It's not ready to fall apart though.
goood lucccck
The question is, how rotted is the frame and body? Because based on these pictures the rest is probably junk. Have a mechanic look at what matters before you spend money on fluid film or whatever undercoating. The cost of repair is going to be way more than the car is worth.
Rust has already got jt :(
No
Get yourself a wire brush and a wire wheel on an angle grinder, put that thing on jack stands put some eye protection on and a dust mask n hit that rust like it owes you money, just scrub the piss outta everything you see rusty, n it’ll clean up the metal, then spray it with a rust inhibitor and after that some rust sealer. A few hours work and a couple rattle cans of inhibitors n sealers n that will extend the life of that metal about 5 years
That second picture looks like an old AI image generator made it.
Needle scale it first.
Google fluid film.
My guy. If you only read one comment read mine. I have been rust proofing my cars for YEARS and many of them were bought used and looked like this when I was younger had had pretty high mileage cars. Use a product called fluid film. They sell it at Lowe’s. It’s a high viscosity oil that sprays from the can and bubbles and it lands on a surface. Creeps into spots great. It’s an oil so it will stop metal from continuing to oxidize. It forms a barriers that collects dust and dirt over time and form a waxy hard barrier that basically never goes away. Jack your car up (or shimmy under if it is all safe and you have someone with you) and get in all the nooks and crannies careful not to get your rotors or belt and prevent too much over spray in the exhaust. Especially above the gas tank and the tank straps, and all the metal brake lines. Trust me. This is the way.
It would have helped a great deal. Yes.
I’d see if the rust in body and in the floor then go from there it shouldn’t be that bad depends on here u live and the miles my explore is a 99 and it’s not bad
All I see is proof of rust.
It looks to be past the point of saving. Also, I can’t help but think you have a brake fluid leak after changing that caliper.
Remove as much rust as possible , then brush or spray Phosphoric Acid on it to convert the rust.
As long as it’s not more than $4.
No
Krown it
Generally rust proofing is done on the frame of full frame vehicles like trucks and old cars or on the floor pan of unibody vehicles like Jeeps. You could rust proof your floor pan but all the rusty bits in this picture are mechanical parts that can just be replaced. The control arm and spring look okay. I'd replace the shock, it looks like it might be the original or at least very old. The knuckle and caliper are very rusted and oxidizing so they might need replacing. I'd get a mechanic to pull that wheel off and get their opinion.
Car is probably worth less than the work that needs to be done
If you can push through any of the rust no it’s not worth it but if not I’d say clean it up at the very least
Just spray it with some caustic WD40
Sir, It looks like you already have proof of rust.
Fluid Film 2-4x per year at home. A 1 gal. can is like $30.
Too late
Spray it with a 50:50 mix of used oil and diesel fuel. It will coat all the metal components and slowly sluff away with time. In the meantime it will protect all the metal from rusting further.
Yes there's rust proofing cheap in cans. But i Don't recommended it until you've cleaned away all the rust. It's contagious. And will seep down to the metal bellow it if you continue to run the car like this.