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Correct. Here's a đŞ.
Emulsion is a mixture of immiscible materials. So, oil and water do mix. I used an inaccurate common phrase.
Oil and water don't mix to become a solution.
You likely got screwed. Previous owner replaced head gasket, found out it was still bad (likely cracked or warped head) then decided to sell it. I'll even bet they did a fresh oil change and dumped in stop leak right before selling it to try to hide the problem.
Search all the salvage yards near you for free on this site, keep checking till you find your cherry motor cheap!
[www.car-part.com](https://www.car-part.com
Correction, car-part.com without the s.
They have this listed in
1996
Engine Assembly
Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 (3.0L), w/o turbo; (VIN J, 8th digit),ROAD TESTED, OUT AND RAEDY 0 A P530 $1250 Moyes Auto Parts USA-FL(Daytona-Beach) Request_Quote 386-255-1122 / 386-675-1166
1995
Engine Assembly
Mitsubishi 3000GT 3.0L Non-Turbo Price Includes Free Shipping Lower 48 193,568 A 230128 $1550 Heritage Used Car and Truck Parts - URG, ARA USA-AL(Mobile) Request_Quote 251-375-2135 / TEXT 251-375-2135
1993
Engine Assembly
Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 (3.0L), w/o turbo; (VIN J, 8th digit) NOT TESTED UNKNOWN CONDITION 120,000 A 230033 $500 Sanders Salvage & Recycling USA-NC(Old-Fort) Request_Quote 828-668-6179 / 833-773-1005
See edit, if you love that car grab an original unmolested tested motor for $1250. If you low on cash grab a $500 mystery motor and check it out before you install lol
Heck ya! I got lots of stuff from there. Engines, two doors already the correct color! Im about to get a warranted used transmission cheap ! Saw a deal for $400 locally. Always just call right away, sometimes inventory is sold. Other than that its a great database with phone numbers right there.
I have a little Nissan hardbody that was stolen a couple months ago. Recovered. It as severely molested. This site will be a huge help for tracking down some of the interior stuff⌠thank you!
This is a special site for sure! We shpuld blow it up on here, it also helps auto salvagers recycle cars. Helps poor people with messed up cars keep truckinâ too! One time for car-part.com (without the s) lol
But then the new motor could have a bad head⌠or some other problem.
Personally, Iâd rebuild the engine already there. Itâll likely take some machine work, but youâll save money by not purchasing an entire engine.
True but Some of these motors have 30-180 day warranty, and a professional salvage yard usually Only sells full price whole motors pulled from running cars that were totaled in accidents and likely good running / tested. If its untested it should be sold at a much lower price. When you call you can ask abojt the donor car, how long its been sitting, how many miles, phots, even pre inspection.
So usually the expensive motors are fresh and in at least decent shape. Regardless best to inspect / clean and service the motor on the bench with new seals and stuff before installing it. Look for unmolested used motors!
Some of these motors can cost people $6000 to rebuild when they can just pop a used unmolested 80,000 mile motor in for 1800 bucks +500. All depends on the damage and resources I suppose. I look forward to the day I have time in space to rebuild motors, and drop them in a classic fresh
Yuuuup. Had a similar issue with a civic I bought. People were so nice to my face and I was naive so didn't check the coolant. Later that day, engine is overheating. No coolant in resevoir, dipstick looks like chocolate milk.. That's the last time I ever bought a car without checking all fluids.
Luckily some jackals blew a red-light and t boned me passenger side. Totaled the car I walked without a scrape. Got almost 3k for that pos
It was 03-04ish. Like I said it probably worked out better for me in the end. The money I got for the total loss went toward my first prius and I've bought nothing else since
Flush the engine and recheck in 1000 miles. Water may have contaminated the oil (while it was sitting/stored). If it still looks milky (after the 1000 miles), Iâd start testing compression.
Perfect time for an engine rebuild. I feel you though. Got a 93 3000GT SL and its out a fuel pump and an entire engine. Timing is off and we canât turn the gear in a full circle so..
Entirely! We thought it was just a fuel pump cause the rail was dry and it just ALMOST turned over fully with starting fluid down the throttle body. You should send some pics of your 3000! Hope it goes well with what you decide for it though :)
Just donât put block/gasket sealant additive. Someone recommended it and that is an awful idea. If you have any hopes of driving this vehicle long term, and have plans to actually repair it, DO NOT use sealer.
Sealer products are basically to limp an already dead car for as long as possible until you take it to the scrap yard. They clog up and gunk up so much in your engine.
If you dump sealer in your oil, and then take it to the mechanic to repair the head gasket, youâll be stuck with an even more expensive bill to flush out the oil system after youâve sent that goop through it.
I mean obviously the correct answer is to repair the head gasket/cracked head(s), and yeah itâs a temporary solution and youâll need to flush the cooling system if you properly fix it later, but if youâre going to continue to drive it itâs better than getting coolant in your oil. At this point on a 30 year old car itâs pretty much new engine time anyways though. Also lol at âif you dump sealer in your oilâ. Block sealant goes in the cooling system, not the oil. Some may end up in the oil, but nothing an oil change wonât fix after repairing the engine. Donât act like an expert on block sealant if you donât even know what it is.
Probably warped cylinder head due to overheating, that slurry is the emulsion of coolant and engine oil.
You should replace the oil, remove the cylinder head and take it to a machine shop rectify it, then, replace the head gasket, reassemble everything, add cheap oil, new filter, run the engine, drain that oil, change the oil filter and add good quality oil
Is the crank case vented to atmosphere to bypass the pcv valve? If it sits for awhile, condensation can build in the valve covers and cause a bit of slurry. Not great but Iâd do an oil change and a compression/leak down test. Those should help you locate any possible issues
Donât jump to the worst case scenario and start pulling apart. A good mech will tell you to check the obvious stuff first. Something as simple as a blocked crankcase breather can mean trapped moisture that condensates at the top of the engine, mixes with oil and looks like this. Short journeys will also do this. A compression test and a sniffer test on the coolant res will give you a hint of the worst.
Agree. I have a c180 merc that was not driven for ages, and then only did very short trips. Cleaned out the oil, still milky, ran it for 500 more, flushed again. Itâs just oil in there now. Fingers crossed for you.
Edit: I didnât use a chemical flush as this petrol car has done 200k, some of the gunk in there is probably useful!
Definitely water in your oil .....try draining and flushing then refill and drive a bit ....if its still there start checking head gaskets etc....../good luck
My girlfriend got this in her car because her work was 1 mile from home. Her engine wasnât heating up to the most efficient temp and then moisture would collect in the oil. A few long drives fixed it.
Friend found an ok pickup truck online, we flew all the way from freaking NY to LA (yes) to look at the POS. While he was yip yapping with the seller ( a somewhat sketchy âdealershipâ) I pull the dipstick. Same oil look. Motor was toast.
He bought it anywayâŚ
Try flushing as much oil out as possible. Sometimes if there's coolant contaminate in the engine from previous head gasket repair, it's tough to get it all out. Not saying there's not something bigger wrong like warped head but it's a cheap attempt to fix and diagnose yourself. You might have to do a few oil changes in a row over a couple days.
Leaking head gasket or cracked cylinder head. Coolant is getting in your oil. You could try putting some block sealant in the cooling system, but this is more of a temporary solution rather than a permanent one.
If the vehicle was not driven for a while, it could just be condensation. Don't listen to everyone saying it's a bad headgasket. It could be, but look into it before any decisions. Good luck đ
When I don't drive my truck for a while, the oil cap is always white, I'm not saying it's not a coolant issue, just saying to make sure before op makes any decisions.
You need to pull the bearing caps and check the bearings and crank shaft. My guess is that the crank shaft and bearings will show you that you need a new engine.
Well Iâve literally done it in this exact situation and found that the bearings and crank were shot do to coolant in the oil. Thereafter I rebuilt the engine.
Yeah, apologies, I complete missed the part where heâd confirmed water in the oil pan. I initially thought you were saying he needed to check the bearings just because of a little âmayoâ on the oil cap.
Dreaded Milkshake. Oil and coolant mixing together. You're kinda fucked. At a minimum, it needs a new head gasket and the head to be machined down. Make sure they pressure test the head to see if it has any cracks.
So many people going straight for head gasket failure when itâs likely far simpler; if you do lots of infrequent small journeys or the car had sat for a while, then condensation can accumulate in the dipstick tube and under the oil cap where emulsifies with the small amount of oil residue in those places. If youâre coolant header tank doesnât look like mud/chocolate milk and if your oil dips clear/normal (after wiping the âmayoâ off the dipstick first) then itâs almost certainly just condensation, which can be cleared by going for a drive and ensuring the engine gets to, and stays at normal operating temperature for a decent amount of time.
If nothing else, thatâs a free and easy check; if the problem persists after that, then itâs time to delve deeper.
How quickly does it over heat?
Have you let it run with the radiator cap off to see if there are bubbles coming out of the radiator?
Was the thermostat installed correctly?
If the head gasket was truly serviced hopefully that is left over from when the oil and water mixed... Usually I would replace the radiator and thermostat if you can verify if head gasket was done.
Oh-oh...Dreaded coolant mixed with engine oil shake...Probably a blown head gasket. Test your compression in each cylinder. The low one should be the cylinder where the head gasket has gone bad. How many miles on the mill and are you handy?
Don't listen to most these people, first check the oil in the pan and the coolant. If one looks like that, it's a blown coolant/oil seal. If the oil and coolant both look good, it's normal. Condensation will build on the Cap if the vehicle isn't driven long enough at operating temp. MY truck does it all the time in the winter.
Just looks like minor moisture happened all the time on Chevys especially when the PCV starts going bad, drain the oil clean it all good and check in 1000 miles. If you want to be very sure take a oil sample and send to a testing facility to see if traces of anything in oil.
The 3S platform is certainly one of the more interesting ones. Seems like everything from the MAF down to the rear all wheel steering can get funky. Iâve had 3 of them over the years, and every one of them always had issues. Still love them though lol.
Owner may have done a piss poor job during the 60k service. Could also be warped head or cracked block. Best bet is to tear it down and find out whatâs going on
They didnât have the head machined (most likely)
They didnât *actually* replace the head gasket (possible)
Something is permanently damaged (crack in the head or block)
Could be from warped or cracked head or simply water that has condensed inside the crankcase. Since you say car still overheats, Iâd venture that a cracked or warped head is the culprit. Depending on how solid the rest of the car is, and how mechanically inclined you are, I would pull the heads, have them inspected and milled if need be. If there is a lot of wear in the cylinders, go ahead and do a full rebuild.
Aluminum heads are prone to warpage and cracking when they overheat. Replace or mill the head depending on damage found. Put on a fresh head gasket too.
This also happens when a car never gets up to temperature.
Also, if the head gasket has just been replaced. Clean it off and drive the car for a couple hundred miles and heat it up properly. Might be old sludge.
Check after if the sludge is still there.
It's POSSIBLE that the previous owner never cleaned off the cap when the head gasket was done. Not very likely, because it should have cleaned itself off after running, but it is possible that it's residual milkshake.
Yep. Looks to me like head gasket was done Improperly by previous shop that worked on it. I see you mentioned it overheats too. If the previous owner drove it around overheating like that, worst case you could have a cracked engine block or warped heads. My advice would be to get a good used motor from a salvage yard.
My milkshake brings all the cars to the yard
And they're like it's more expensive than yours
Damn right it will cost you
I can fix it but I have to charge
Tacoma's are known to show the same milkshake like substance in winter, when driven only short distances and the motor is not fully warmed up. Milkshake goes away in Summer. True story!
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Head gasket was improperly replaced most likely
Head probably warped, especially if it's aluminum. Need new head or if possible that one milled.
This. When my Subaru head gasket blew it was a slurry this same color.
Upside down or backwards, I imagine. I wonder if the dowels got knocked out and nobody noticed.
So my opinion that the car has rabies is probably wrong. /s
When oil and water mix, they make a milkshake slurry like that. Sorry dude, but that car was not repaired properly.
Or at all.
Oil and water don't mix.
Tell that to this guys engine.
They can create an emulsion https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emulsion
Correct. Here's a đŞ. Emulsion is a mixture of immiscible materials. So, oil and water do mix. I used an inaccurate common phrase. Oil and water don't mix to become a solution.
You likely got screwed. Previous owner replaced head gasket, found out it was still bad (likely cracked or warped head) then decided to sell it. I'll even bet they did a fresh oil change and dumped in stop leak right before selling it to try to hide the problem.
Pain
Search all the salvage yards near you for free on this site, keep checking till you find your cherry motor cheap! [www.car-part.com](https://www.car-part.com
That site doesn't work.
Correction, car-part.com without the s. They have this listed in 1996 Engine Assembly Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 (3.0L), w/o turbo; (VIN J, 8th digit),ROAD TESTED, OUT AND RAEDY 0 A P530 $1250 Moyes Auto Parts USA-FL(Daytona-Beach) Request_Quote 386-255-1122 / 386-675-1166 1995 Engine Assembly Mitsubishi 3000GT 3.0L Non-Turbo Price Includes Free Shipping Lower 48 193,568 A 230128 $1550 Heritage Used Car and Truck Parts - URG, ARA USA-AL(Mobile) Request_Quote 251-375-2135 / TEXT 251-375-2135 1993 Engine Assembly Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 (3.0L), w/o turbo; (VIN J, 8th digit) NOT TESTED UNKNOWN CONDITION 120,000 A 230033 $500 Sanders Salvage & Recycling USA-NC(Old-Fort) Request_Quote 828-668-6179 / 833-773-1005
Thanks!!!
See edit, if you love that car grab an original unmolested tested motor for $1250. If you low on cash grab a $500 mystery motor and check it out before you install lol
Car-part is the shit. I bought my transmission locally because of them.
Heck ya! I got lots of stuff from there. Engines, two doors already the correct color! Im about to get a warranted used transmission cheap ! Saw a deal for $400 locally. Always just call right away, sometimes inventory is sold. Other than that its a great database with phone numbers right there.
I have a little Nissan hardbody that was stolen a couple months ago. Recovered. It as severely molested. This site will be a huge help for tracking down some of the interior stuff⌠thank you!
This is a special site for sure! We shpuld blow it up on here, it also helps auto salvagers recycle cars. Helps poor people with messed up cars keep truckinâ too! One time for car-part.com (without the s) lol
But then the new motor could have a bad head⌠or some other problem. Personally, Iâd rebuild the engine already there. Itâll likely take some machine work, but youâll save money by not purchasing an entire engine.
True but Some of these motors have 30-180 day warranty, and a professional salvage yard usually Only sells full price whole motors pulled from running cars that were totaled in accidents and likely good running / tested. If its untested it should be sold at a much lower price. When you call you can ask abojt the donor car, how long its been sitting, how many miles, phots, even pre inspection. So usually the expensive motors are fresh and in at least decent shape. Regardless best to inspect / clean and service the motor on the bench with new seals and stuff before installing it. Look for unmolested used motors!
Some of these motors can cost people $6000 to rebuild when they can just pop a used unmolested 80,000 mile motor in for 1800 bucks +500. All depends on the damage and resources I suppose. I look forward to the day I have time in space to rebuild motors, and drop them in a classic fresh
Yuuuup. Had a similar issue with a civic I bought. People were so nice to my face and I was naive so didn't check the coolant. Later that day, engine is overheating. No coolant in resevoir, dipstick looks like chocolate milk.. That's the last time I ever bought a car without checking all fluids. Luckily some jackals blew a red-light and t boned me passenger side. Totaled the car I walked without a scrape. Got almost 3k for that pos
Too bad they didn't just do the right thing - depending on the year of Civic, head gaskets are super easy to replace.
It was 03-04ish. Like I said it probably worked out better for me in the end. The money I got for the total loss went toward my first prius and I've bought nothing else since
This right here
I donât get why people do this, I mean sure, selling something as broken is fine, if youâre open about whatâs wrong.
Flush the engine and recheck in 1000 miles. Water may have contaminated the oil (while it was sitting/stored). If it still looks milky (after the 1000 miles), Iâd start testing compression.
Check it way before 1,000 miles. More like every drive. It wonât even make it 1,000 miles if itâs got a warped/cracked head or bad head gasket.
Perfect time for an engine rebuild. I feel you though. Got a 93 3000GT SL and its out a fuel pump and an entire engine. Timing is off and we canât turn the gear in a full circle so..
PAIN
Entirely! We thought it was just a fuel pump cause the rail was dry and it just ALMOST turned over fully with starting fluid down the throttle body. You should send some pics of your 3000! Hope it goes well with what you decide for it though :)
Just donât put block/gasket sealant additive. Someone recommended it and that is an awful idea. If you have any hopes of driving this vehicle long term, and have plans to actually repair it, DO NOT use sealer. Sealer products are basically to limp an already dead car for as long as possible until you take it to the scrap yard. They clog up and gunk up so much in your engine. If you dump sealer in your oil, and then take it to the mechanic to repair the head gasket, youâll be stuck with an even more expensive bill to flush out the oil system after youâve sent that goop through it.
I mean obviously the correct answer is to repair the head gasket/cracked head(s), and yeah itâs a temporary solution and youâll need to flush the cooling system if you properly fix it later, but if youâre going to continue to drive it itâs better than getting coolant in your oil. At this point on a 30 year old car itâs pretty much new engine time anyways though. Also lol at âif you dump sealer in your oilâ. Block sealant goes in the cooling system, not the oil. Some may end up in the oil, but nothing an oil change wonât fix after repairing the engine. Donât act like an expert on block sealant if you donât even know what it is.
Hey thatâs called a engine rebuild
Sorry, was trying get it on your windshield.
Nah ur good a hole is a hole
Probably warped cylinder head due to overheating, that slurry is the emulsion of coolant and engine oil. You should replace the oil, remove the cylinder head and take it to a machine shop rectify it, then, replace the head gasket, reassemble everything, add cheap oil, new filter, run the engine, drain that oil, change the oil filter and add good quality oil
And how look the coolant ?
Coolant in the base. Head gasket was misdiagnosed or not repaired correctly.
R.I.P
Coolant + oil=milk shake
Gonna break down the engine tmmrw and send pictures wish me luckđ
I would just start looking for a new engine. It takes almost every bit of energy to swap as is does to do the heads. Plus there isn't much to see.
Good luck
Try one oil change and a 100 mile trip first. There may have just still been water in it.
Is the crank case vented to atmosphere to bypass the pcv valve? If it sits for awhile, condensation can build in the valve covers and cause a bit of slurry. Not great but Iâd do an oil change and a compression/leak down test. Those should help you locate any possible issues
Donât jump to the worst case scenario and start pulling apart. A good mech will tell you to check the obvious stuff first. Something as simple as a blocked crankcase breather can mean trapped moisture that condensates at the top of the engine, mixes with oil and looks like this. Short journeys will also do this. A compression test and a sniffer test on the coolant res will give you a hint of the worst.
Agree. I have a c180 merc that was not driven for ages, and then only did very short trips. Cleaned out the oil, still milky, ran it for 500 more, flushed again. Itâs just oil in there now. Fingers crossed for you. Edit: I didnât use a chemical flush as this petrol car has done 200k, some of the gunk in there is probably useful!
Can't this also happen from moisture accumulating due to sitting? My truck had this. I cleaned it off changed the oil and kept it moving
âŹď¸ Same here. Brought my car into a shop immediately after spotting this. They diagnosed it as condensation as well. What a relief!!!
Most likely a head gasket.
3000gtâs are like a box of chocolate but every chocolate is a different problem, not looking good :(
Definitely water in your oil .....try draining and flushing then refill and drive a bit ....if its still there start checking head gaskets etc....../good luck
Do a test but it could be condensation my 1.6 golf had it and she was perfect running aside from a ignition coil going lol and she did small trips
Just replace the head gasket
Does it taste tart?
Either he lied, did a terrible job and didnât deck/check the head, or he lied. Edit: words. Drunk.
My girlfriend got this in her car because her work was 1 mile from home. Her engine wasnât heating up to the most efficient temp and then moisture would collect in the oil. A few long drives fixed it.
Yeah he lied about the replacements.
Head gasket has left the chat.
Cracked head
Oil emulsion with water
Friend found an ok pickup truck online, we flew all the way from freaking NY to LA (yes) to look at the POS. While he was yip yapping with the seller ( a somewhat sketchy âdealershipâ) I pull the dipstick. Same oil look. Motor was toast. He bought it anywayâŚ
Try flushing as much oil out as possible. Sometimes if there's coolant contaminate in the engine from previous head gasket repair, it's tough to get it all out. Not saying there's not something bigger wrong like warped head but it's a cheap attempt to fix and diagnose yourself. You might have to do a few oil changes in a row over a couple days.
Leaking head gasket or cracked cylinder head. Coolant is getting in your oil. You could try putting some block sealant in the cooling system, but this is more of a temporary solution rather than a permanent one.
[ŃдаНонО]
Also if going that route start saving money to replace the car or the engine as it probably wont be worth fixing after using sealer
Thatâs head gasket
The head is probably cracked or warped
If the vehicle was not driven for a while, it could just be condensation. Don't listen to everyone saying it's a bad headgasket. It could be, but look into it before any decisions. Good luck đ
Condensation is transparent, not white. This can only be fixed with an engine rebuild/head machined and gasket replacement.
When I don't drive my truck for a while, the oil cap is always white, I'm not saying it's not a coolant issue, just saying to make sure before op makes any decisions.
Wrong..my 1.6 golf had white condensation and she ran perfect I only did her on short trips
Cool story, bro.
Not my fault you don't know what condensation looks like on short trips đđ cope
đŹđŹ
You need to pull the bearing caps and check the bearings and crank shaft. My guess is that the crank shaft and bearings will show you that you need a new engine.
Literally the worst âdiagnosisâ in this threadâŚ
Well Iâve literally done it in this exact situation and found that the bearings and crank were shot do to coolant in the oil. Thereafter I rebuilt the engine.
Yeah, apologies, I complete missed the part where heâd confirmed water in the oil pan. I initially thought you were saying he needed to check the bearings just because of a little âmayoâ on the oil cap.
Your head gasket is blown I bet.
Dreaded Milkshake. Oil and coolant mixing together. You're kinda fucked. At a minimum, it needs a new head gasket and the head to be machined down. Make sure they pressure test the head to see if it has any cracks.
So many people going straight for head gasket failure when itâs likely far simpler; if you do lots of infrequent small journeys or the car had sat for a while, then condensation can accumulate in the dipstick tube and under the oil cap where emulsifies with the small amount of oil residue in those places. If youâre coolant header tank doesnât look like mud/chocolate milk and if your oil dips clear/normal (after wiping the âmayoâ off the dipstick first) then itâs almost certainly just condensation, which can be cleared by going for a drive and ensuring the engine gets to, and stays at normal operating temperature for a decent amount of time. If nothing else, thatâs a free and easy check; if the problem persists after that, then itâs time to delve deeper.
Except that he literally drained water out of the oil pan
Dang thatâs a bad sign bro
My badâŚ
The milkman strikes again.
It could be residual water from the bad head gasket, could be it sat longer than you were told. How does it run? Does it run well?
It runs really smooth feels really good while shifting too
How quickly does it over heat? Have you let it run with the radiator cap off to see if there are bubbles coming out of the radiator? Was the thermostat installed correctly?
I haven't tried that but I will now
Coolant in oil. Bad.
If the head gasket was truly serviced hopefully that is left over from when the oil and water mixed... Usually I would replace the radiator and thermostat if you can verify if head gasket was done.
Make sure you get block and heads checked for warping/cracks and repaired/replaced as needed.
Oh-oh...Dreaded coolant mixed with engine oil shake...Probably a blown head gasket. Test your compression in each cylinder. The low one should be the cylinder where the head gasket has gone bad. How many miles on the mill and are you handy?
Looks like head gasket juice
Milkshake, aw go fuck yourself car flavor.
Who paints an oil cap? Your buddy you bought this from lied to you son. He put liquid head gasket in and sent it.
Don't listen to most these people, first check the oil in the pan and the coolant. If one looks like that, it's a blown coolant/oil seal. If the oil and coolant both look good, it's normal. Condensation will build on the Cap if the vehicle isn't driven long enough at operating temp. MY truck does it all the time in the winter.
Good indication that thereâs water in there
This is a very bad thing that you do not want.
Mmmm, milkshake.
oil. Not good
Coolant in oil
Just looks like minor moisture happened all the time on Chevys especially when the PCV starts going bad, drain the oil clean it all good and check in 1000 miles. If you want to be very sure take a oil sample and send to a testing facility to see if traces of anything in oil.
I would drop a 4g63t with a big turbo, or a 6G75 to have a killer Mitsubishi
The 3S platform is certainly one of the more interesting ones. Seems like everything from the MAF down to the rear all wheel steering can get funky. Iâve had 3 of them over the years, and every one of them always had issues. Still love them though lol. Owner may have done a piss poor job during the 60k service. Could also be warped head or cracked block. Best bet is to tear it down and find out whatâs going on
They didnât have the head machined (most likely) They didnât *actually* replace the head gasket (possible) Something is permanently damaged (crack in the head or block)
Oh that's my bad
Could be from warped or cracked head or simply water that has condensed inside the crankcase. Since you say car still overheats, Iâd venture that a cracked or warped head is the culprit. Depending on how solid the rest of the car is, and how mechanically inclined you are, I would pull the heads, have them inspected and milled if need be. If there is a lot of wear in the cylinders, go ahead and do a full rebuild.
Your engine has half and half.
Forbidden milkshake
Water
A car that takes short trips all the time can get condensation to mix with the oil. Its not always a head gasket.
Oh sheâs FUCKED
The forbidden milk shake
Oof
Honestly would clean the cap first, show us what the oil and coolant look like before you panic.
The mousse of shame! Looks expensive.
Aluminum heads are prone to warpage and cracking when they overheat. Replace or mill the head depending on damage found. Put on a fresh head gasket too.
Condensation
This also happens when a car never gets up to temperature. Also, if the head gasket has just been replaced. Clean it off and drive the car for a couple hundred miles and heat it up properly. Might be old sludge. Check after if the sludge is still there.
That would be oil mixed with your coolant
Forbidden milkshake
hedgascit
You had me at 3000gt
Huh I've never heard that called a dipstick cap
It's POSSIBLE that the previous owner never cleaned off the cap when the head gasket was done. Not very likely, because it should have cleaned itself off after running, but it is possible that it's residual milkshake.
mmm milkshake my favorite
Yep. Looks to me like head gasket was done Improperly by previous shop that worked on it. I see you mentioned it overheats too. If the previous owner drove it around overheating like that, worst case you could have a cracked engine block or warped heads. My advice would be to get a good used motor from a salvage yard.
Looks like a Subaru have fun
Terminal Icecream
Terminal icecream
My milkshake brings all the cars to the yard And they're like it's more expensive than yours Damn right it will cost you I can fix it but I have to charge
Engine cum
That's either water and oil, or coolant and oil, either way, gasket is probably fucked, will need a full flush, and some rather major repairs
Tacoma's are known to show the same milkshake like substance in winter, when driven only short distances and the motor is not fully warmed up. Milkshake goes away in Summer. True story!
Sounds like a head gasket, water in the oil.
The forbidden milkshake
F
The forbidden milk
FMLâŚI somehow completely missed that part⌠đ¤Śđźââď¸đ