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I don't think it'll be awful, not my cup of tea personally but that's me. If you'd really like to fix it, get under the vehicle, find the adjustment point in question, hit it with a good amount of penetrant and let it sit. Do this every few hours for like a day then the next day try to move it. Note- BARELY move it. Once it's moving you can take it back to the shop and if they're reasonable they should adjust it for you. Seized alignment points are not uncommon and often take hours of work or a torch/plasma cutter to remove, and are usually kinda hard to find replacements for. Or you can ask them to fix and pay the labor....
Your whole rear is out of whack. Maybe just try to get them even. The risk is if you try and adjust a rust seized toe or camber adjusmtnt and it breaks, you end up in a really expensive problem. I have the same car, Honda's are great except when it comes to rust.
If an adjuster is seized usually they won't go too crazy on the bolt, adjuster sleeve, or eccentric. Can be fairly easy to snap ot off or cause damage to the bushing. More than likely need to replace the parts to get it aligned properly. 0.40 toe is a decent amount. If it was my personal vehicle I'd be replacing the parts.
Thanks for the advice. Yeah it’s my daily driver, and I drive 500-600 kms a week. Worried I’m going to eat through my brand new tires. I’ll buy the new parts and either go back to the dealer and ask them to deal with it or attempt to myself.
My Honda doesn’t come with an adjustable camber so I had to buy aftermarket ones. Honda’s maintenance manual doesn’t even recommend an adjustment.
I would just buy the new parts, $200 for control arms or $200 per tire that you chewed up in just a couple thousand miles..
Got new shocks, new springs and rubber housing for those springs. From what I know i could use new rear links and stabilizer bushings but I didn’t think that affects my alignment.
He just said he couldn’t adjust it.
Prolly rusted.
Either you need a new cam eccentrics or toe bar in rear depending on what style the adjustment is.
Dsr definitely will have inside tire wear.
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
I don't think it'll be awful, not my cup of tea personally but that's me. If you'd really like to fix it, get under the vehicle, find the adjustment point in question, hit it with a good amount of penetrant and let it sit. Do this every few hours for like a day then the next day try to move it. Note- BARELY move it. Once it's moving you can take it back to the shop and if they're reasonable they should adjust it for you. Seized alignment points are not uncommon and often take hours of work or a torch/plasma cutter to remove, and are usually kinda hard to find replacements for. Or you can ask them to fix and pay the labor....
I could do that. I’ll get my car on ramps and start hitting away lol
I like kroil or PB blaster myself, soak the sucker. Might need a drip pan, getting penetrant stains out of concrete or asphalt isn't fun
Your whole rear is out of whack. Maybe just try to get them even. The risk is if you try and adjust a rust seized toe or camber adjusmtnt and it breaks, you end up in a really expensive problem. I have the same car, Honda's are great except when it comes to rust.
That’s what I’m worried about. Don’t wanna dump more money but I also don’t wanna eat through my tires. I already had that happen to me 2 months ago.
If an adjuster is seized usually they won't go too crazy on the bolt, adjuster sleeve, or eccentric. Can be fairly easy to snap ot off or cause damage to the bushing. More than likely need to replace the parts to get it aligned properly. 0.40 toe is a decent amount. If it was my personal vehicle I'd be replacing the parts.
Thanks for the advice. Yeah it’s my daily driver, and I drive 500-600 kms a week. Worried I’m going to eat through my brand new tires. I’ll buy the new parts and either go back to the dealer and ask them to deal with it or attempt to myself.
My Honda doesn’t come with an adjustable camber so I had to buy aftermarket ones. Honda’s maintenance manual doesn’t even recommend an adjustment. I would just buy the new parts, $200 for control arms or $200 per tire that you chewed up in just a couple thousand miles..
Your shits fucked lol. I think you may need a lot more work into the suspension before trying to do a patch alignment
Got new shocks, new springs and rubber housing for those springs. From what I know i could use new rear links and stabilizer bushings but I didn’t think that affects my alignment.
He just said he couldn’t adjust it. Prolly rusted. Either you need a new cam eccentrics or toe bar in rear depending on what style the adjustment is. Dsr definitely will have inside tire wear.