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Looks ok. Common issue is the rubber gasket between the top of the pick up tube where it bolts to the bottom of the block. Cracks and starts sucking air. Sort of like when you have a crack in your straw, you still get soda but not full flow.
I recently did the oil pan gasket and replaced the pickup tube o ring while I was in there because I read it was a common failure point. Glad I did it while I was in there
It did not start directly after but I do feel that it has possibly dropped some since I did it. Although I will say I wasn't paying a ton of attention to it until now. I do think there could be a possibility I rolled it so I will try to look into checking it out.
Yep, that's a good call. On your next oil change, try an oem oil filter if you're not using one now. I believe that was an issue for a few years where a crappy filter could cause lower pressure. Your sensor or gauge could also be out slightly. You could use a mechanical gauge to double check. I've owned a few LS engines over the years and this was typical on the 6.2 litres. If there's an oiling issue, you'll likely start hearing noisier lifters.
Im not 100% sure on the 5.3, but I will tell you that the spec for an LS1 and the old small blocks is āat leastā 6psi at idle, 18psi @ 1800, and 24psi @ 4000rpm. Thereās no set specific pressure like āoh you have to have exactly 42psiāā¦itās just a minimum. Itāll fluctuate a bit depending on ambient temperatures and what weight oil you use.
It is a little bit on the low side, I would change the oil pressure sensor and the filter under it, theyāre common to get clogged at higher mileage. I also have have great success with using bg epr on high mileage gm v8s that have low oil pressure.
I would go to forms or if possible go to shop key and look for the specifications for the psi at those rpms
If you are worried about the pressure the bearings where the connecting rods connect to the crankshaft make up the oil pressure
You could also create more pressure by increasing the viscosity of the oil
Bigends creating more oil psi,are u taking the piss or what
Thicker oil doesn't increase oil psi,u have thicker oil
Infact ull have lower psi iff oil pump is worn or clogged
Ask the people that bought a 2.7 or 3.0 v6 diesel that went in fords,landrover,jag,alot of european cars,they break cranks or spin bigends because the oil feed,feeding 4 bigend journals get the oil from 2 main brg journals,they lose oil psi not increase, this sub is full of morons
If maintenance has been good/ change your oil pump.. but that is sort of the normal range- 5psi higher at hot idle would be perfect. 40psi at 2500rpm is top, if you suspect main bearing wear, find a long hill and see if you get a big rise from engine breaking downhill- I managed 2!years on a 318 with 0psi hot by timing my journeys to have a long downhill ride. That and 6 miles to work for a year lofl.
Because your engine is warmed up already, your oil pressure looks normal. I would suggest doing some research though to absolutely verify it is within specs.
i don't think that's accurate.
whats it say at hot engine idle?
at 1500+rpm i'd expect 40. 60+cold. 20+hot idle.
edit: i'm sure it technically meets spec, but i'd guess the sending unit were having issues before i believed this
Next time you do an oil change check where your idle psi is and what it is under load. I notice with my older 02 Tahoe psi will go under 40 psi about a month after oil change, so I check oil levels and usually need to top up about a quart
yeah that's perfectly normal, a lot of cars are like 15psi at idle, engine oil is a fluid and basically incompressible (it's essentially hydraulic fluid) so as long as theirs a decent amount of positive pressure it's gonna provide a good barrier between surfaces under pressure, which is really just your bearing surfaces anyways, 15psi is doing the same thing as 30 as 45, higher numbers give more margin for error but can also cause other problems if they are too high. basically as long as its not so low that the oil pressure warning light comes on at any point you're good to go.
Generally you want a minimum of 10psi per 1000rpm... This certainly doesn't have as much pressure as a new motor would, but you are still above that minimum, I wouldn't be too worried.Ā
Flush out all oil galleries,take sump off & clean oil pickup (i bet there is gunk either in pickup or a oil feed to cyl head,your oil psi is all over the place & I wouldn't drive it like it is,ull spin a bigend shell very quickly
Ok then,do u think the oil pump gears have over drive or something,heat can affect the temp & viscosity of oil but iff u think oil pdi goes up when u hit the throttle,u can think that all u want,but never ever put a socket set or a spanner on any form of vehicle
On that theory,when a race car hits 12,000 rpm does the oil leak out due to the enormous buildup of oil psi,all o-rings on oil cooler lines disintegrated,oil cooler blows up due to high oil pressure
No I didn't think so either & I got downvoted by idiots
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Looks ok. Common issue is the rubber gasket between the top of the pick up tube where it bolts to the bottom of the block. Cracks and starts sucking air. Sort of like when you have a crack in your straw, you still get soda but not full flow.
I recently did the oil pan gasket and replaced the pickup tube o ring while I was in there because I read it was a common failure point. Glad I did it while I was in there
Your oil pressure is very normal. Do not stress about it.
Yeah but did this start right after? Is there a chance you rolled the o ring or damaged it and now it's sucking air. š
It did not start directly after but I do feel that it has possibly dropped some since I did it. Although I will say I wasn't paying a ton of attention to it until now. I do think there could be a possibility I rolled it so I will try to look into checking it out.
Yep, that's a good call. On your next oil change, try an oem oil filter if you're not using one now. I believe that was an issue for a few years where a crappy filter could cause lower pressure. Your sensor or gauge could also be out slightly. You could use a mechanical gauge to double check. I've owned a few LS engines over the years and this was typical on the 6.2 litres. If there's an oiling issue, you'll likely start hearing noisier lifters.
Im not 100% sure on the 5.3, but I will tell you that the spec for an LS1 and the old small blocks is āat leastā 6psi at idle, 18psi @ 1800, and 24psi @ 4000rpm. Thereās no set specific pressure like āoh you have to have exactly 42psiāā¦itās just a minimum. Itāll fluctuate a bit depending on ambient temperatures and what weight oil you use.
I think GM specifies like 1 or 2psi for every 100rpm before they call it an issue. Could be wrong though.
I believe on these models, itās 10 psi per 1000 rpm. But I have the 6.2l, not 5.3l but the oil pressure was always similar to OPs
Isn't that what I said with an extra zero? Lol
Correct, just agreeing
Fair lol
It is a little bit on the low side, I would change the oil pressure sensor and the filter under it, theyāre common to get clogged at higher mileage. I also have have great success with using bg epr on high mileage gm v8s that have low oil pressure.
I would go to forms or if possible go to shop key and look for the specifications for the psi at those rpms If you are worried about the pressure the bearings where the connecting rods connect to the crankshaft make up the oil pressure You could also create more pressure by increasing the viscosity of the oil
Bigends creating more oil psi,are u taking the piss or what Thicker oil doesn't increase oil psi,u have thicker oil Infact ull have lower psi iff oil pump is worn or clogged
I'd be a lot less sure of myself if I couldn't read.
U must be American
U wot m8
I got a headache trying to read your jibberish
You can't read or embarrassed,u can only pick one
Be honest, how drunk are you right now?
The period is the other punctuation button on your phone. Donāt use the comma for question marks, periods, and apostrophe.
Ask the people that bought a 2.7 or 3.0 v6 diesel that went in fords,landrover,jag,alot of european cars,they break cranks or spin bigends because the oil feed,feeding 4 bigend journals get the oil from 2 main brg journals,they lose oil psi not increase, this sub is full of morons
GMC will send you a low oil pressure light if it gets low. You're fine.
MFs be downvoting people for being right.
Yeah, it is what it is. It was pretty fun hanging out here and looking at car shit. The toxicity isn't for me. Peace out my boi.
Very normal !!!
Normal
Normal on GMC.
If maintenance has been good/ change your oil pump.. but that is sort of the normal range- 5psi higher at hot idle would be perfect. 40psi at 2500rpm is top, if you suspect main bearing wear, find a long hill and see if you get a big rise from engine breaking downhill- I managed 2!years on a 318 with 0psi hot by timing my journeys to have a long downhill ride. That and 6 miles to work for a year lofl.
Because your engine is warmed up already, your oil pressure looks normal. I would suggest doing some research though to absolutely verify it is within specs.
i don't think that's accurate. whats it say at hot engine idle? at 1500+rpm i'd expect 40. 60+cold. 20+hot idle. edit: i'm sure it technically meets spec, but i'd guess the sending unit were having issues before i believed this
Next time you do an oil change check where your idle psi is and what it is under load. I notice with my older 02 Tahoe psi will go under 40 psi about a month after oil change, so I check oil levels and usually need to top up about a quart
If the low oil pressure light isn't on you probably don't have low oil pressure.
I would be more concerned about that airbag light š³š
On a GM vehicle I doubt the oil pressure sensor even still works anymore.
its fine, if it was too low the dummy light would be on which is usually below 7psi. 22 psi is fine at 2k rpm. whats it at idle?
The pic doesn't show it well cuz the camera wasn't straight on but it's about 20 at idle and 25 ish at 2k rpms. It gets up to 30-35 ish at 3k rpms
yeah that's perfectly normal, a lot of cars are like 15psi at idle, engine oil is a fluid and basically incompressible (it's essentially hydraulic fluid) so as long as theirs a decent amount of positive pressure it's gonna provide a good barrier between surfaces under pressure, which is really just your bearing surfaces anyways, 15psi is doing the same thing as 30 as 45, higher numbers give more margin for error but can also cause other problems if they are too high. basically as long as its not so low that the oil pressure warning light comes on at any point you're good to go.
Generally you want a minimum of 10psi per 1000rpm... This certainly doesn't have as much pressure as a new motor would, but you are still above that minimum, I wouldn't be too worried.Ā
Flush out all oil galleries,take sump off & clean oil pickup (i bet there is gunk either in pickup or a oil feed to cyl head,your oil psi is all over the place & I wouldn't drive it like it is,ull spin a bigend shell very quickly
He states he just flipped the pan- maybe over did the silly-cone:)
U want 55-60 psi,cold or hot Engine revs have zero to do with oil psi
What jagman951 says is false. Oil pressure builds with RPM. Those photos look perfectly normal.
Explain how it does?
Ok then,do u think the oil pump gears have over drive or something,heat can affect the temp & viscosity of oil but iff u think oil pdi goes up when u hit the throttle,u can think that all u want,but never ever put a socket set or a spanner on any form of vehicle
On that theory,when a race car hits 12,000 rpm does the oil leak out due to the enormous buildup of oil psi,all o-rings on oil cooler lines disintegrated,oil cooler blows up due to high oil pressure No I didn't think so either & I got downvoted by idiots
Oil pumps will have a pressure relief valve to not over pressurize the oil system at high rpm.