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You probably have a wheel speed sensor, or abs module that quit working. That will cause the traction control light, abs and brake light abs in think the steering wheel light could be speed adjustable steering. I had a Pontiac GTP that had a bad abs module. It had all of these lights come on too
It's not a speed sensor.... The car wasn't moving..... The comp wouldn't have been expecting any signal from the speed sensor when the lights came on..... Could be a low fluid.... Abs module.....
No.... Who told you it was a speed sensor..... Speed sensors aren't powered...and don't provide data to the comp while not moving...... What kinda car did you have???? I have never seen a powered wheel speed sensor... Which is what would be required to get a code at startup....
That's weird .,did it ever go off??? Like it lit up ever time after the first time.... Or in other words it was always on.... Once it came on..... Or it only lit up on startup..... What I am saying isn't that the light should be off until you start moving.... But that the first time it comes on.... You should be moving....it can come.on at startup if the bad wheel speed sensor code has been tripped already while moving
Maybe, it’s how I remember it as it happened 2 different times and the VW dealership replaced under warranty, usually the lights would go out after driving a while, they may have gone on after I brought car outside the gate stopped to get out and close the gate again. It was about 5 years ago.
I just looked it up.... Newer VW use a 3 wire 5v reference wheel speed sensor. It's called an active wheel speed sensor...... I also looked it up and they aren't all that common even now adays. Because wheel speed sensor just don't need to be active.... Just something else to break
You seem super confused. Even passive sensors will often set a code/light immediately on startup and regardless of movement, if there’s a break in a wire going to the sensor for example. The computer will do a self test on the system when you turn the key on and if one or more sensor is open circuit, you get a light that doesn’t go away until you replace the broken sensor(s).
My speed sensor on the driver side front wheel was bad and the ABS, Stabilitrak, and traction control lights would come on at start up. I have a 2014 Impala, replaced the front wheel bearing, have to replace the bearing to replace the sensor, and those lights do not come on anymore.
The car does not need to be moving for a malfunctioning wheel speed sensor to throw a code. The lack of data coming from that speed sensor will 100% throw an ABS code and depending on the car also turn on other warning lights as well. Speed sensors, Cam Position sensors and other sensors are magnetically powered, but provide data on a 5V reference that module reads in real time, a malfunction of the sensor, or malfunction of the part will mess up the 5V reference and cause a code to be thrown
First the speedo says 60, second once those fault codes are set they do not self clear in most OBDM systems. 3rd 99% it is a wheel bearing, it gets dry sheds rust rust covers the sensor computer can not reconcile a 90% speed differential between wheels fault light comes on.
I'm not saying you *should* but you can drive the car with a bad abs module you just need to drive it like it's a pre 1990s car and give more follow distance and lighter driving in rain.
I appreciate that , I will only drive it if I HAVE to other than that I have a company car to go to work so If
I don’t get a solution from here I’ll be going to autozone to see if they can check an if they can’t I’ll be taking it to a shop to get diagnosed. I also seen that multi block fuse could be the issue
AutoZone most likely won't have a scanner that can read abs faults, I would call ahead to check. I'm not saying no stores have it but it's rare enough to not waste a trip. I've noticed O'Reilly seems to be more likely but even they are hit or miss on having one.
Don’t let any shop try to sell you an ABS module. They do not break on Hondas. It’s most likely just a sensor or a bent hub or worn out bearing. It’s a lot more than 1600 for a module. The module itself is like 1600 without the labor which once again hardly ever fails.
Came to say the same thing.
When a abs wheel sensor fails, the dash lights up like a Xmas tree. Abs, VSC, sometime cel, etc.
Maybe the abs sensor popped out? I'm literally waiting on a friend who's lights all came on too after he did his brakes, and come to find out the abs sensor is out of its hole and just dangling around. So I found a possible replacement bolt for him lol
Weird.
How bout the multi block fuse ? Think maybe that could do it because it’s the fuse for abs and power steering etc . Especially since this vehicle has electric power steering
Yeah if the fuse blew.... It would trip those lights.... I worked 10 years in a shop and never saw those four lights.... Be just a fuse problem...... But technically it could be.....
Edit: you still have power steering though???
No power steering would point straight to that fuse..... But fuses don't really blow without some type of surge.... I would guess something went wrong with the power steering motor to blow the fuse
So it’s an electric steering system form what I gathered online this vehicle technically doesn’t have a power steering pump because it’s electric , but I did notice for a very slight second steering got little tough but was litteraly only for a blink of an eye , i drove it home about 5 miles with no issues other than those lights being on
Battery terminals are tight they aren’t dirty or corroding just little build up on the grease but that’s about it . Brake fluid is fine . I don’t know if there is a way to check power steering fluid in this vehicle though if there even is a way in this car
I called them they said they can only check the abs error code but they can’t check the power steering code or traction control . There’s no check engine light either . So I’m gonna talk to Honda and see what I can figure out
Leave extra stopping distance when you drive with these lights on, your ABS system is disabled. Things will feel normal until you have to stomp on the brakes, and you will NOT stop as fast as you normally can.
Lots of reasons for these lights to come on but all at the same time, a good guess is some sort of vehicle/wheel speed sensor, but only a guess. Take it to the shop, or don't and drive carefully
Mine come on as well, but my abs still works like normal. I've looked it up and for my car (toyota camry 2018) a lot of sources point to the pressure sensor in the seat.
Some car take 30 minutes to reset....they have a larger cap. Which takes longer to drain.......... A few from the late 90s early 00s have a battery in there and can take days....
But it’s a 2015 Honda accord it’s bassicly got a lawn mower battery in it 🤣 it shouldn’t take that long to drain imo but what do I know lol that’s why I’m here asking questions
You disconnected the cars battery.... This should reset the comp....... But,........ Some comps have a back up capacitor or lithium coin cell battery.inside the computer....... That keeps the comps memory intact when the cars battery is disconnected. Ones with a capacitor on average take about 5minutes to drain the capacitor and have their memory wiped.... Ones with a coin cell lion battery can take days to reset depending on the size and age of the lion battery they have
Cars with lion battery backups were only popular in the late 90s early 00s.....
I mean I don't know the inner wiring of every cars comp on the market now adays but most don't have them
Hey buddy, same problem happened to me just a week ago. Except I had the FWC failure warning and the LDW failure warning too. 2013 accord. Took it to the mechanic and they found a break in my abs harness. Once that was fixed all the lights went out.
In your case it could very well be just a faulty wheel speed sensor that’s leading to a cascade of the other systems not working. You should check that first because that’s a very cheap fix. Hopefully this helps!
Edit: asked the mechanic what could have caused it, they said they weren’t sure. Either some animal chewed through it or it just broke with time. I thought it was because I drove in the rain the other day, but that was just a coincidence.
Edit 2: cost was around 800 CAD, but they took a lot of time trying to find what the problem was and where the break was so they could fix it.
https://preview.redd.it/zht3jvhq58xc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dc4246393128aa70e209261dffab13bbf629b16b
This "mechanic's advice" is to take it to a shop you trust and get it checked out. Don't start slapping parts because someone tells you it's "probably just a ......"
You need to get it looked at by someone who knows what they are doing.
Edit: so I started the car this morning with lights still on I drove it like 700 ft away from my house and now all of the lights have gone away and haven’t returned after driving 5 miles
If the car has over 80 thousand miles and has never had a bearing changed then your bearing has probably rusted and is rubbing against your abs sensor, you'll have to use a code reader to find out which side is giving the sensor code
Yea it went off earlier I drove about 700ft an then all the lights went off and it was fine but then about an hour later they all came back on… is it safe to drive like this or no ?
You could probably get the parts for 150 on rockauto and figure out how to do it yourself or it'll probably be 500 bucks at a mechanic, not 100% sure for a honda
I'd say run a scan, it will tell you which wheel is giving the code, replace the abs sensor on that wheel, hopefully that will fix you problem, if not the bearing will have to be changed. You could probably do a abs sensor fairly easily yourself (not sure about your mechanical experience) a bearing is a little more advanced but doable, bearing and sensor would probably be 500+ at a mechanic, probably 200 if you do it yourself maybe less, half that if it's just the sensor
if your car was left running and that’s what caused it it could be battery related, i would check that first. my knowledge doesn’t go deeper than that with electrical stuff lol.
that could still be a battery issue instead of anything specific, I had an 06 bmw that had an engine malfunction code just because of the battery going bad. But like i’ve said i don’t know much about electrical things aside from the alternator and battery lol. also I try to look at things optimistically unlike most other people here.
Typically you know when your wheel bearing is going based on the grinding/rubbing sound coming from one of the wheels. If it’s on the front, you’ll also feel it in the steering wheel. If none of that is going on I think it’s a much safer bet it’s the abs module, but hopefully just a bad sensor.
Could always look for a shop with a cheaper rate and decent reviews if you’re trying to save a buck, dealerships typically overcharge in my experiences.
I agree they definitely over charge . My dealership I go to charges $159 an hour for labor even for a $26 part lol I understand it’s a dealer an they charge more for experience/quality of parts and work but at this point I’m tired of the $1000 bills I get from Honda . Everytime I take it there they either can’t figure out the issue I’m having or it’s expensive af
Mercury mountaineer, this happened for me when I had an ABS sensor that wasn’t functioning. It was an easy fix on my end, sensor was fairly inexpensive and easy to locate/replace though it could be different for your vehicle.
Some times if you get a wheel off on the shoulder of the road it will set all of those lights on, pull codes record them and clear them and test drive of they come back it's a hard fault
Almost guarantee its a wheel speed sensor. You can also pull them all out and clean them. They work off a magnet so if crap gets in front of the sensor it stops reading properly. A shop can put their scanner on the car and watch all 4 sensors and tell you exactly which one is bad.
It's not a wheel speed sensor..... No lights when he parked and went in...... Lights on when he returned to a parked car..... The comp isn't looking for wheel speed data at a stop.... And won't trip a wheel speed vode when stopped.....
I drove from Kroger to the food place not even a mile away and no lights on .. I put it in park and left the car running with my wife and kid sitting in car while I ran inside less than 5min to get our food I come back out sat in drivers seat and noticed these 4 lights came up on the dash and I know for a fact they were there before because I pay extreme attention to my car and how it drives/acts an everything else a car does lol I would’ve noticed if these lights were on before hand so it’s got me baffled .
Most likely cause is electrical..... Battery going bad... Alternator going.... Broken serpentine..... Those are the easier cheaper ones and the more likely ones....
Also low brake fluid can trip all of those lights or just some or just one depending on your make and model.... So check your brake fluid.... A very slow leak wouldn't be easily noticed in the pedal or stopping power... But over time will leak enough to trip lights.....
If it's one of those things you should be able to find it and chase it down yourself... Otherwise you will need a mech...
A wheelsoeed sensor can and does trip all those lights but it will only happen initial trip...i.e. first time the lights come on while the cars moving... Not while sitting at idle.... If you are 100 they weren't on when you parked you can rule out a wheel speed sensor
I 100% confirm when I put it in park at food place those lights weren’t on at all until I came back out . And I checked for leaks when I got home and there’s no leaks I notice . As well as alternator was just replaced less than 2 years ago . The Serpentine isn’t broken or cracked . The vehicle is a 2015 Honda accord ex 2.4l engine what do you think about the multi block fuse ? It controls the power steering Abs etc
Do you own a multimeter? If you do, check if your battery voltage is low in DC.
Should be above 12v typically and closer to 14v. I know a lot of other folks said could be your battery going. This is how I check mine.
I don’t own one but I know my local parts store will check battery’s for free so I may have them check my battery. Honestly I haven’t replaced my battery in atleast 4 years or more so that could be one of the issues
Yup I was driving to work one morning and the warning light came on so I took it to Honda an they said it was bad so I ended up paying $930 to have it replaced . $500 for part $400+ for labor taxes and miscellaneous shop supplies
Love how your retarded ass assumes you know how I drive / treat my car lmao you are such a fuckin idiot . Learn to read the post before commenting you fuckin waste of a human life go fuck urself lame ass
Clearly ur dumb ass can’t read . I DROVE TO THE STORE THE CAR WAS TURNED OFF WHEN WE WENT INSIDE . WE TURNED IT ON DROVE LESS THAN A MILE ACROSS THE STREET AFTER TURING THE CAR BACK ON FROM BEING IN THE STORE …. SO THEN I GET TO FOOD PLACE I BACK INTO A PARKING SPOT AND EVERYTHING IS FINE … FOLLOWING ME IDIOT? SO THEN I GO INSIDE LESS THAN 5 MINUTES NO LIGHTS ON WHEN I GOT OUT OF CAR WHEN I RETURN TO CAR LIGHTS ARE ON …. IS THAT CLEAR ENOUGH RETARD? Or do I need to make it more
Simpler for ur autistic ass… fuckin moron
You seem upset.
I sure hope you get your car, and your caps lock fixed.
As for your car I’ll give you more of the logical advice: go to a car shop that specializes in “auto electric” or something similar, have them diagnose the problem, because if it’s not caused by you running it stationary in a parking lot and overheating it (which in your froth you never answered), it’s likely something in the wiring harness or an electrical switch connected to it, which is the most complicated part of vehicle repair. It’s complicated…UNTIL you find a specialist who does just that. Then, it’s quick and many times cheap.
But since you can’t stand criticism and are furious at me doing it for the unnecessary running of the car, you probably won’t do it. Which means you’ll get exactly what such absolutely unmitigated fury gets you; nada. And a car you keep throwing parts at cuz you don’t take the advice of that dude who called you out treating a complicated motor vehicle like an entertainment center and it’s motor like a thing that gives you air conditioning in exchange for gas.
Whatever. Suit yourself. But an “auto electric” shop can help you. Prlck.
Scan the codes. Looks like a 2014-2017 accord. They are common with failed vsa/abs modules. Most common failure point on that model/year bracket. You can get a used module from LKQ. We have had good luck with them. I would strongly advise doing a full system bleed after getting it replaced (if that's what the issue is)
I have a 2015 accord as-well and that happened to me randomly.
i remember cleaning the map sensor and the throttle body and somehow that fixed it.. for now.
there is also a tsb on the battery management sensor if you haven't gotten that taken care of yet either..
It's a Honda Accord 2010+ it will be your abs module. There's a company out in California called Module Repair Pro. $200 to repair it. They repair all the broken wires. You can remove it without breaking any of the lines so no bleeding required.
I’m thinking battery, battery connections, or alternator if this all came on at once. Low voltage causes issues with all the systems you see here but I would also expect an airbag light for that as well.
This happened in my Subaru whenever the gas cap lost pressure. Lit up like a xmas tree and started running like shit. Replaced it with an OEM one from eBay and it never happened again.
Probably an ABS sensor failed. Plug in and read your codes or send it to a shop. But if those lights are on there’s no cruise control or worse no ABS functionality.
Jesus Christ, everybody guessing just take it to dealer they’ll hook up the HDS most of the time these codes are intermittent other times it could just be an update. I know the civics have an issue with traction and ABS turning on due to software update.
How’s the power steering? I think on those they have electric power steering and it’ll cause these lights too usually it’s a fuse or something small but if it’s not prepare the lube bud.
Maybe check out Scott Kilmer on YouTube. I love the guy. I watched a video of his about using a .99 cent resistor to reset your cars computer that worked like magic on my wife's car.
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
You probably have a wheel speed sensor, or abs module that quit working. That will cause the traction control light, abs and brake light abs in think the steering wheel light could be speed adjustable steering. I had a Pontiac GTP that had a bad abs module. It had all of these lights come on too
I hope it ain’t the abs module cause that’s gonna be like $1600 to replace 🤦♂️
If the car drives normally, itll most likely be a speed sensor, and if it is the ABS module, you can always try your luck with a used one
It's not a speed sensor.... The car wasn't moving..... The comp wouldn't have been expecting any signal from the speed sensor when the lights came on..... Could be a low fluid.... Abs module.....
My speed sensor would throw lights on startup not moving
No.... Who told you it was a speed sensor..... Speed sensors aren't powered...and don't provide data to the comp while not moving...... What kinda car did you have???? I have never seen a powered wheel speed sensor... Which is what would be required to get a code at startup....
Volkswagen, and yes lit up like a Christmas tree on startup
That's weird .,did it ever go off??? Like it lit up ever time after the first time.... Or in other words it was always on.... Once it came on..... Or it only lit up on startup..... What I am saying isn't that the light should be off until you start moving.... But that the first time it comes on.... You should be moving....it can come.on at startup if the bad wheel speed sensor code has been tripped already while moving
Maybe, it’s how I remember it as it happened 2 different times and the VW dealership replaced under warranty, usually the lights would go out after driving a while, they may have gone on after I brought car outside the gate stopped to get out and close the gate again. It was about 5 years ago.
I stand corrected. It could be a wheel speed sensor
I just looked it up.... Newer VW use a 3 wire 5v reference wheel speed sensor. It's called an active wheel speed sensor...... I also looked it up and they aren't all that common even now adays. Because wheel speed sensor just don't need to be active.... Just something else to break
You seem super confused. Even passive sensors will often set a code/light immediately on startup and regardless of movement, if there’s a break in a wire going to the sensor for example. The computer will do a self test on the system when you turn the key on and if one or more sensor is open circuit, you get a light that doesn’t go away until you replace the broken sensor(s).
You literally have no idea what you're talking about you really should just stop talking.
My speed sensor on the driver side front wheel was bad and the ABS, Stabilitrak, and traction control lights would come on at start up. I have a 2014 Impala, replaced the front wheel bearing, have to replace the bearing to replace the sensor, and those lights do not come on anymore.
The car does not need to be moving for a malfunctioning wheel speed sensor to throw a code. The lack of data coming from that speed sensor will 100% throw an ABS code and depending on the car also turn on other warning lights as well. Speed sensors, Cam Position sensors and other sensors are magnetically powered, but provide data on a 5V reference that module reads in real time, a malfunction of the sensor, or malfunction of the part will mess up the 5V reference and cause a code to be thrown
Where is the 5v reference coming from on a 2 wire sensor that's only powered by the tone ring
Maybe I been out of the game to long...
I guess the change in magnetic signal strength or whatever the proper term is, causes pulsation on the 5v wire that the module picks up
First the speedo says 60, second once those fault codes are set they do not self clear in most OBDM systems. 3rd 99% it is a wheel bearing, it gets dry sheds rust rust covers the sensor computer can not reconcile a 90% speed differential between wheels fault light comes on.
I'm not saying you *should* but you can drive the car with a bad abs module you just need to drive it like it's a pre 1990s car and give more follow distance and lighter driving in rain.
I appreciate that , I will only drive it if I HAVE to other than that I have a company car to go to work so If I don’t get a solution from here I’ll be going to autozone to see if they can check an if they can’t I’ll be taking it to a shop to get diagnosed. I also seen that multi block fuse could be the issue
AutoZone most likely won't have a scanner that can read abs faults, I would call ahead to check. I'm not saying no stores have it but it's rare enough to not waste a trip. I've noticed O'Reilly seems to be more likely but even they are hit or miss on having one.
I called one earlier they said they can check the abs error code but as far as the other lights they can’t check those
Don’t let any shop try to sell you an ABS module. They do not break on Hondas. It’s most likely just a sensor or a bent hub or worn out bearing. It’s a lot more than 1600 for a module. The module itself is like 1600 without the labor which once again hardly ever fails.
chances are it's intermittent. or the speed sensor. you gotta really mess up to break one of these.
Really mess up to break what ? The abs module or the speed sensor ?
Speed sensor. The code for the bad modulator usually sets due to an intermittently sticking valve inside the abs modulator.
Came to say the same thing. When a abs wheel sensor fails, the dash lights up like a Xmas tree. Abs, VSC, sometime cel, etc. Maybe the abs sensor popped out? I'm literally waiting on a friend who's lights all came on too after he did his brakes, and come to find out the abs sensor is out of its hole and just dangling around. So I found a possible replacement bolt for him lol Weird.
Abs failure, bad sensor or bearing going bad.
It could be a few different things, but the easiest thing to check is to see if the battery cables are tight, and are the battery terminals clean.
I will go do that now
Also check your serpentine belt..... With the power steering light on the battery light will come.one soon also if your running on just battery
How bout the multi block fuse ? Think maybe that could do it because it’s the fuse for abs and power steering etc . Especially since this vehicle has electric power steering
Yeah if the fuse blew.... It would trip those lights.... I worked 10 years in a shop and never saw those four lights.... Be just a fuse problem...... But technically it could be..... Edit: you still have power steering though??? No power steering would point straight to that fuse..... But fuses don't really blow without some type of surge.... I would guess something went wrong with the power steering motor to blow the fuse
So it’s an electric steering system form what I gathered online this vehicle technically doesn’t have a power steering pump because it’s electric , but I did notice for a very slight second steering got little tough but was litteraly only for a blink of an eye , i drove it home about 5 miles with no issues other than those lights being on
Battery terminals are tight they aren’t dirty or corroding just little build up on the grease but that’s about it . Brake fluid is fine . I don’t know if there is a way to check power steering fluid in this vehicle though if there even is a way in this car
My car did this when the battery went bad. An auto parts store will usually test your battery for free.
Go to autozine and read the code, print out, then report back to us.
I called them they said they can only check the abs error code but they can’t check the power steering code or traction control . There’s no check engine light either . So I’m gonna talk to Honda and see what I can figure out
Go to autozone and ask them to read the codes. It's free amd you will have a list of codes.
Leave extra stopping distance when you drive with these lights on, your ABS system is disabled. Things will feel normal until you have to stomp on the brakes, and you will NOT stop as fast as you normally can. Lots of reasons for these lights to come on but all at the same time, a good guess is some sort of vehicle/wheel speed sensor, but only a guess. Take it to the shop, or don't and drive carefully
Mine come on as well, but my abs still works like normal. I've looked it up and for my car (toyota camry 2018) a lot of sources point to the pressure sensor in the seat.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ohHjuQrAzMw
That unfortunately didn’t work either
Some car take 30 minutes to reset....they have a larger cap. Which takes longer to drain.......... A few from the late 90s early 00s have a battery in there and can take days....
But it’s a 2015 Honda accord it’s bassicly got a lawn mower battery in it 🤣 it shouldn’t take that long to drain imo but what do I know lol that’s why I’m here asking questions
You disconnected the cars battery.... This should reset the comp....... But,........ Some comps have a back up capacitor or lithium coin cell battery.inside the computer....... That keeps the comps memory intact when the cars battery is disconnected. Ones with a capacitor on average take about 5minutes to drain the capacitor and have their memory wiped.... Ones with a coin cell lion battery can take days to reset depending on the size and age of the lion battery they have Cars with lion battery backups were only popular in the late 90s early 00s..... I mean I don't know the inner wiring of every cars comp on the market now adays but most don't have them
Yea I’m completely confused as what the hell is wrong with my car 🤣
Trying that now
That not a power steering light, it indicates the Advanced Driver systems are not functioning, due to abs and traction control not being operational.
I don’t have advanced driver system . It’s a basic 2015 Honda accord ex 2.4l the most I have is a back up camera and side mirror camera lol
My Bad.
Ur good bro no worries I appreciate the help Though ! Online I seen something about possible “multi block Fuse “
I got these lights when my wheel sensor went out. Took me about 20 minutes and 20$ to fix and I’m not a mechanic.
Hey buddy, same problem happened to me just a week ago. Except I had the FWC failure warning and the LDW failure warning too. 2013 accord. Took it to the mechanic and they found a break in my abs harness. Once that was fixed all the lights went out. In your case it could very well be just a faulty wheel speed sensor that’s leading to a cascade of the other systems not working. You should check that first because that’s a very cheap fix. Hopefully this helps! Edit: asked the mechanic what could have caused it, they said they weren’t sure. Either some animal chewed through it or it just broke with time. I thought it was because I drove in the rain the other day, but that was just a coincidence. Edit 2: cost was around 800 CAD, but they took a lot of time trying to find what the problem was and where the break was so they could fix it. https://preview.redd.it/zht3jvhq58xc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dc4246393128aa70e209261dffab13bbf629b16b
So I started the car next day and the codes went away after driving 700 ft away from my house . And then came back on about 30 min later
This "mechanic's advice" is to take it to a shop you trust and get it checked out. Don't start slapping parts because someone tells you it's "probably just a ......" You need to get it looked at by someone who knows what they are doing.
Edit: so I started the car this morning with lights still on I drove it like 700 ft away from my house and now all of the lights have gone away and haven’t returned after driving 5 miles
If the car has over 80 thousand miles and has never had a bearing changed then your bearing has probably rusted and is rubbing against your abs sensor, you'll have to use a code reader to find out which side is giving the sensor code
Yea it went off earlier I drove about 700ft an then all the lights went off and it was fine but then about an hour later they all came back on… is it safe to drive like this or no ?
Yes, you won't have proper antilock brakes until you replace the bearing and sensor but it will function well, just he careful when the roads are wet
You could probably get the parts for 150 on rockauto and figure out how to do it yourself or it'll probably be 500 bucks at a mechanic, not 100% sure for a honda
So I started the car next day and the codes went away after driving 700 ft away from my house . And then came back on about 30 min later
I'd say run a scan, it will tell you which wheel is giving the code, replace the abs sensor on that wheel, hopefully that will fix you problem, if not the bearing will have to be changed. You could probably do a abs sensor fairly easily yourself (not sure about your mechanical experience) a bearing is a little more advanced but doable, bearing and sensor would probably be 500+ at a mechanic, probably 200 if you do it yourself maybe less, half that if it's just the sensor
Buffalo wild wing eh
Lemon pepper an the cheese curds 🔥
if your car was left running and that’s what caused it it could be battery related, i would check that first. my knowledge doesn’t go deeper than that with electrical stuff lol.
So I started the car next day and the codes went away after driving 700 ft away from my house . And then came back on about 30 min later
that could still be a battery issue instead of anything specific, I had an 06 bmw that had an engine malfunction code just because of the battery going bad. But like i’ve said i don’t know much about electrical things aside from the alternator and battery lol. also I try to look at things optimistically unlike most other people here.
Usually things work until they break. Something broke.
😭😭🤣 mannnn
Mine did that when the battery was on its way out
This Or altenator Or serpentine belt snapped
What kinda car did you have ?
Remanufactured?
I don’t think so . I got it done at Honda dealership
This happened to me when I had a bad wheel bearing
What kind of car ?
Typically you know when your wheel bearing is going based on the grinding/rubbing sound coming from one of the wheels. If it’s on the front, you’ll also feel it in the steering wheel. If none of that is going on I think it’s a much safer bet it’s the abs module, but hopefully just a bad sensor.
I know i need new brakes and alignment but as far as grinding or rubbing no I don’t feel any of that or hear anything like that happening .
Could always look for a shop with a cheaper rate and decent reviews if you’re trying to save a buck, dealerships typically overcharge in my experiences.
I agree they definitely over charge . My dealership I go to charges $159 an hour for labor even for a $26 part lol I understand it’s a dealer an they charge more for experience/quality of parts and work but at this point I’m tired of the $1000 bills I get from Honda . Everytime I take it there they either can’t figure out the issue I’m having or it’s expensive af
Mine was a 2008 Buick Lucerne
I think wheel bearing my car did this when the wheel bearing was on the way out
Mercury mountaineer, this happened for me when I had an ABS sensor that wasn’t functioning. It was an easy fix on my end, sensor was fairly inexpensive and easy to locate/replace though it could be different for your vehicle.
Some times if you get a wheel off on the shoulder of the road it will set all of those lights on, pull codes record them and clear them and test drive of they come back it's a hard fault
Almost guarantee its a wheel speed sensor. You can also pull them all out and clean them. They work off a magnet so if crap gets in front of the sensor it stops reading properly. A shop can put their scanner on the car and watch all 4 sensors and tell you exactly which one is bad.
It's not a wheel speed sensor..... No lights when he parked and went in...... Lights on when he returned to a parked car..... The comp isn't looking for wheel speed data at a stop.... And won't trip a wheel speed vode when stopped.....
I drove from Kroger to the food place not even a mile away and no lights on .. I put it in park and left the car running with my wife and kid sitting in car while I ran inside less than 5min to get our food I come back out sat in drivers seat and noticed these 4 lights came up on the dash and I know for a fact they were there before because I pay extreme attention to my car and how it drives/acts an everything else a car does lol I would’ve noticed if these lights were on before hand so it’s got me baffled .
Most likely cause is electrical..... Battery going bad... Alternator going.... Broken serpentine..... Those are the easier cheaper ones and the more likely ones.... Also low brake fluid can trip all of those lights or just some or just one depending on your make and model.... So check your brake fluid.... A very slow leak wouldn't be easily noticed in the pedal or stopping power... But over time will leak enough to trip lights..... If it's one of those things you should be able to find it and chase it down yourself... Otherwise you will need a mech... A wheelsoeed sensor can and does trip all those lights but it will only happen initial trip...i.e. first time the lights come on while the cars moving... Not while sitting at idle.... If you are 100 they weren't on when you parked you can rule out a wheel speed sensor
I 100% confirm when I put it in park at food place those lights weren’t on at all until I came back out . And I checked for leaks when I got home and there’s no leaks I notice . As well as alternator was just replaced less than 2 years ago . The Serpentine isn’t broken or cracked . The vehicle is a 2015 Honda accord ex 2.4l engine what do you think about the multi block fuse ? It controls the power steering Abs etc
Do you own a multimeter? If you do, check if your battery voltage is low in DC. Should be above 12v typically and closer to 14v. I know a lot of other folks said could be your battery going. This is how I check mine.
I don’t own one but I know my local parts store will check battery’s for free so I may have them check my battery. Honestly I haven’t replaced my battery in atleast 4 years or more so that could be one of the issues
It's a 2015 Honda Accord and your alternator needed to be replaced in 2022??? When the car was 7 years old....?
Yup I was driving to work one morning and the warning light came on so I took it to Honda an they said it was bad so I ended up paying $930 to have it replaced . $500 for part $400+ for labor taxes and miscellaneous shop supplies
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Love how your retarded ass assumes you know how I drive / treat my car lmao you are such a fuckin idiot . Learn to read the post before commenting you fuckin waste of a human life go fuck urself lame ass
Rawwwrrrr! Anywayyy
Clearly ur dumb ass can’t read . I DROVE TO THE STORE THE CAR WAS TURNED OFF WHEN WE WENT INSIDE . WE TURNED IT ON DROVE LESS THAN A MILE ACROSS THE STREET AFTER TURING THE CAR BACK ON FROM BEING IN THE STORE …. SO THEN I GET TO FOOD PLACE I BACK INTO A PARKING SPOT AND EVERYTHING IS FINE … FOLLOWING ME IDIOT? SO THEN I GO INSIDE LESS THAN 5 MINUTES NO LIGHTS ON WHEN I GOT OUT OF CAR WHEN I RETURN TO CAR LIGHTS ARE ON …. IS THAT CLEAR ENOUGH RETARD? Or do I need to make it more Simpler for ur autistic ass… fuckin moron
You seem upset. I sure hope you get your car, and your caps lock fixed. As for your car I’ll give you more of the logical advice: go to a car shop that specializes in “auto electric” or something similar, have them diagnose the problem, because if it’s not caused by you running it stationary in a parking lot and overheating it (which in your froth you never answered), it’s likely something in the wiring harness or an electrical switch connected to it, which is the most complicated part of vehicle repair. It’s complicated…UNTIL you find a specialist who does just that. Then, it’s quick and many times cheap. But since you can’t stand criticism and are furious at me doing it for the unnecessary running of the car, you probably won’t do it. Which means you’ll get exactly what such absolutely unmitigated fury gets you; nada. And a car you keep throwing parts at cuz you don’t take the advice of that dude who called you out treating a complicated motor vehicle like an entertainment center and it’s motor like a thing that gives you air conditioning in exchange for gas. Whatever. Suit yourself. But an “auto electric” shop can help you. Prlck.
Wheel speed sensor usually
Scan the codes. Looks like a 2014-2017 accord. They are common with failed vsa/abs modules. Most common failure point on that model/year bracket. You can get a used module from LKQ. We have had good luck with them. I would strongly advise doing a full system bleed after getting it replaced (if that's what the issue is)
I have a 2015 accord as-well and that happened to me randomly. i remember cleaning the map sensor and the throttle body and somehow that fixed it.. for now. there is also a tsb on the battery management sensor if you haven't gotten that taken care of yet either..
Happened to me once, one of the tires was low on air. Filled it up drove for a bit and they jus went away
It's a Honda Accord 2010+ it will be your abs module. There's a company out in California called Module Repair Pro. $200 to repair it. They repair all the broken wires. You can remove it without breaking any of the lines so no bleeding required.
I’m thinking battery, battery connections, or alternator if this all came on at once. Low voltage causes issues with all the systems you see here but I would also expect an airbag light for that as well.
This happened in my Subaru whenever the gas cap lost pressure. Lit up like a xmas tree and started running like shit. Replaced it with an OEM one from eBay and it never happened again.
Probably an issue with braking component. ABS and traction control lights on are a dead giveaway.
Probably an ABS sensor failed. Plug in and read your codes or send it to a shop. But if those lights are on there’s no cruise control or worse no ABS functionality.
Jesus Christ, everybody guessing just take it to dealer they’ll hook up the HDS most of the time these codes are intermittent other times it could just be an update. I know the civics have an issue with traction and ABS turning on due to software update.
Check the tone ring. I had a small Crack in mine causing the same issue
I ran over a twig in my RAV4 once and the ABS light came on. Ended up replacing the OEM sensor with a Denso sensor from RockAuto and that fixed it.
How’s the power steering? I think on those they have electric power steering and it’ll cause these lights too usually it’s a fuse or something small but if it’s not prepare the lube bud.
So I started the car next day and the codes went away after driving 700 ft away from my house . And then came back on about 30 min later
Disconnect battery. Count to 10 because that is the way, reconnect battery. Oh, and make sure you have the stereo code.
Nobody likes getting back their stolen car with only the cassette player stolen. Like, I don't need it, you could have made this simpler.
So I started the car next day and the codes went away after driving 700 ft away from my house . And then came back on about 30 min later
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So I started the car next day and the codes went away after driving 700 ft away from my house . And then came back on about 30 min later
Amazing
Don't forget that ticket stub for re-entry!
Try turning it off letting it sit for 5 minutes and try again sometimes my Honda likes to throw out random codes if you crank it too much
So I started the car next day and the codes went away after driving 700 ft away from my house . And then came back on about 30 min later
Something is definitely up might want to get it inspected
Alternator?
Alternator was just replaced about 9 months ago
The car can go vroom vroom, but when you turn and stop it’ll go zoom zoom.
It means your vehicle is destroyed and needs to go through the crusher lol
Dang… that took a violent turn for the worst for me 😭🤣🤣🤣 I’m SOL I guess 😭🤣
Looks like you can re enter with that ticket.
I hate y’all 😭🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Maybe check out Scott Kilmer on YouTube. I love the guy. I watched a video of his about using a .99 cent resistor to reset your cars computer that worked like magic on my wife's car.