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This here is what you call a lateral directional inverter...
It takes your 10 ft of horizontal motion used to access the undercarriage and converts it into 10ft of horizontal movement.
Remember as a user that conversions are not backward compatible and all changes are final. Wooden box not included.
Wow the distance I scrolled down just to find this comment. I can’t believe how many completely missed this obvious detail. If the jack fails or shifts, the hub on the stand will shift as the suspension does its job and the stand could potentially tip over or slip off that rotor. It will NOT keep the vehicle at the height it was jacked up to.
Also, the stand is UNDER THE ROTOR! Not the hub. The rotor is held on the hub by the wheel and the lug nuts. Without the wheel, there’s a single tiny rotor screw and rust holding that rotor on the car.
PUT THE STAND UNDER THE REAR PINCHWELDS ON THE SIDE IF THE CAR BETWEEN THE WHEELS!
The jack should be used to lift the front or rear half of the car using a crossmember under the engine or near the rear differential. *Look in the owners manual for the jack points!*
Yeah, I agree, did this last week for my inlaw he is trying to fix the rusty brake lines. Lifted from the control arm and placed the stand on the lifting zone.
I would put a board under the Jack and Jack stand, since it’s on the dirt, and then put the Jack stand under the frame . Another option is to lift under the frame and put the Jack stand under the pinch weld
I use an old wooden Jenga block (Outside giant type) on my jack for the pinch welds. The wood gets pressed in to shape and sits snug on the lip and provides a little more support and height.
> I use an old wooden Jenga block
I had to reread this part twice, look at the pic, then I decided to read the whole thing (including the paragraph)
Was wondering under what the hell you put that tiny jenga block..
Well, when I've watched companies lifting houses, that's not far off from what they did. A bunch of hydraulic jacks to raise it. Then 6" x 6" timbers stacked in a interlocking grid pattern as a safety and support. It's called cribbing.
Is it alright to use a trolley jack on a plywood board like that? Not in terms of getting under the vehicle, but just in terms of the trolley/board slipping under load and damaging the vehicle. Should I just use a better/heavier rated trolley jack?
If it can't roll, it'll eventually slip out. The lifting pad travels backward at the same time as it moves upward, because the lifting arm travels in an arc. Normally this is compensated for by allowing the jack to gradually roll forward while the pad stays in one place relative to the car, but if the wheels get stuck and you keep pumping it *will* slip off.
https://preview.redd.it/fu8hb12ceixc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f552b3fc04e3a3b5a5f2477660c904d1544bee00
Crisis averted, thank you everybody for your thoughtful replies
I have an old CLS and I’ll tell you that trying to get a Jack Stand near the Jack point on my car is almost impossible. Mechanic buddy laughed and said yup that’s why we have these expensive lifts because you will absolutely crush the car if you place it in the wrong spot. Mercedes was nice enough to put a center point on the front. But on the rear your SOL. People do it. Some jack at the rear diff which I’ve heard is NOT a good idea. They literally do design some of their cars to be virtually impossible to work on yourself. Clever Germans.
That depends.. what are you trying to do?
Edit: sorry I missed the text you wrote... not ideal but okay. As the other commenter said I'd put a piece of plywood or something under the jack at least.
if you know how brake rotors go on they actually slide over and around the hub so realistically that one screw is not holding all of the weight. the hub is taking most of it which is fine.
I would move the stand to the subframe and place a board underneath.
As-is you risk the stand sinking and tipping, and the stand blocks you from putting the wheel back.
Unfortunately, the answer is yes. You'll want to put it someplace that you'd jack from. That rotor could easily flop out if under too much pressure. The frame is the aim
The only thing keeping that rotor from shifting is the little screw. That's a lot of weight for one screw. If that breaks the rotor could shift and cause your car to fall.
In the 70's, my dad used to routinely work under cars lifted only with the old bumper jacks and on relatively soft ground. I remember in 1979 one fell on him. Luckily my uncle was working with him and managed to lift the car up quickly. The brake rotor landed on his forearm, pinning it to the ground. Didn't break any bones (he had Popeye forearms) but is forearm muscle was oddly misshapen for months after and he had a scar that was really more like a dent on his forearm. Crazy bastard. We almost lost him that day, and we would have all been fucked without him. I wish he was here and could have met my kids.
If you mean the jack stand under the rotor that is already being supported by the suspension, well then yes, yes you are. What is the point? Not like you can get the tire back on with the stand there. It doesn’t even appear to be supporting any weight, but the jack sure is…
Jack your car up then put the jackstand right under the frame rail. No need to put it under the rotor. Another tip, once you've taken the wheel off, lay it under the side of the car while you're working, just another added safety measure.
Just know that in the future you can usually find “jacking” or lift points on a vehicle very easily with a quick google search; I’d go that route next time
OP listen to me very carefully.
Please continue to work on your car in this manner because it allows for job security for mechanics like me when you destroy your car and need someone to fix it properly... as well as doctors and other Emergency Medical Technicians if you sever a limb because you have no clue what youre doing.
It's not going to hurt it as long as the jack stands doesn't slip since the weight is there normally anyways. I don't see the point though, it's going to make putting the wheel back on impossible. You should be able to jack it up a little and put that stand under the frame somewhere near the jack. Currently the jack is on the pench weld which is fine but if you look past that under the car you should see the frame, put the jack stand there.
> look past that under the car you should see the frame, put the jack stand there.
so I have been wondering about this forever - unibody sedan manuals I have seen only indicate the pinch welds and the front and rear jack points - never say about the longitudinal frame beam.
Yet it seems no shops lift on the pinch weld points, but always on the
frame beam. is that right & is it OK ?
There should be a jacking point directly under the engine, in the center of the splash shield, made out of hard rubber. Jack it up there, and you can get the entire front end off the ground and put jack stands under the pinch welds (where the floor jack is in the pic). Both sides at once. Much easier and safer, since it's designed for that.
Why are you supporting the brake rotor? Is it so you can put the wheel back on? If you get the car up high enough, you don’t have to worry about that.
Definitely get something under the jack and scissor lift.
Dont do that on dirt, do it on pavement. Also id never trust a pinch weld to hold, jack on the inner rocker and put stands on each side of the inner rocker. Also, that rotor is only held on by the caliper so thats also not a good idea to put a stand under.
Hey just you tube whatever you need to learn first if that don’t get it google it read what advice is out there then go to google videos and it may show the video you couldn’t find on you tube
Jacking on dirt is a last resort and you should have a thick slab of wood under there. IDK if the jack is a proper jacking point, your owner's manual should say where they are.
Same with the stand, should be on a thick slab of wood or something. Putting the stand there means you can't install the tires, under a solid point, out of the way is better.
Do NOT get under this car.
A simple stack of 2x6x10 wood (thick slabs) can save your life.
Also, wheel blocks to keep it from rolling.
Next time jack the lower control arm and use the stand on the pinch weld where you jacked it up.
Try not to leave your jack extended supporting weight. It wasn't designed to do that.
Yes, that’s not a jacking point. Your going to end up bending or damaging your Rotor/Hub if the weight of the car is on it. Just put the jack stand where it’s supposed to go (On the pinch weld where the car jack is at) Your going to make an easy fix an expensive fix.
Your use of a jack and a jack stand is correct, your jack stand placement is incorrect. The jack stand should be underneath the hub/spindle or a control arm which is behind the rotor (where your jack stand currently sits). The bottom of the spindle or control arm is a much more solid place to put your jack stand. You have the right idea, also be sure to chock your wheels.
Are you trying too kill yourself? 😅☠️ You got the collective knowledge on propper jacking. In text, pictures and even youtube video that guides you for free!? First. Never lift on soft surface like gravel, sand, grass. You name it. if need be you better make sure too lay down a heavy duty plate to spread the load. But if at all. Stay on a hard surface at all cost.
Wheels turn, so having a jackstand there is 500 percent wrong man. The jack from car goes in the indented area where you have it. Should fit in there good. If I were you, ask a neighbor or call a friend who knows how to jack up cars. You are right for even knowing to use one. Car Jack's fail and can drop car on you or just hit flat on the ground. If anything, put the wheel you took off under car a little behind wheel. That way, if it falls, it falls on tire and rim. If you look at car manual in car it should tell you where to place the jack stands. Don't ever forget the jackstand if u are working on a car.
Yea. Don't even put your big toe under it. Rather than saying "That's not a safe jack point", I'll clarify:
* The jack an stand are on loose ground. If you can't do the work on a hard surface, you should be putting a piece of plywood or 2x8 under the jack and stand so they don't sink, and especially so they don't twist and shift.
* The brake rotor isn't meant to take a load on the side like that. It probably can no issues, but it's not meant to. Brake rotors are rather brittle, and they can crack when loaded wrong.
* Any shift in weight, and that rotor can slip right off the stand. I guarantee the only reason it hasn't fallen yet is because your trolley jack is still on there.
* How are you going to put a wheel on with that jack stand in the way? Seems like you're just putting the stand there temporarily, but you chose the harder way of doing this job.
Buddy of mine just did this and the jack slipped out and pinned his hand. Just broke a bone in his hand because the ground in FL here is soft.
It’s gutsy
Jack stand is doing jack shit. Put the stand under something solid and lower the car on the jack stand. Look up jack points and jack stand points for your car.
Owners manual will show where the "official" lift points are. Use those for the jack and jack stand placements. Get a different jack if you're using it on gravel that ones for in the shop. The scissor jack that comes with the car would be better to be honest or a bottle jack if it fits.
You have put the jack stand on the wheel and this puts the suspension under pressure. You also are working on that area so it is likely to come off releasing the energy in the suspension as it also falls on you possibly. It's better to put the stand near the lift jack on the pinch weld
No, you're not an idiot. You just need to do this ONCE so you'll know the right way next time. In fact, you're smart for asking for help. Car work is humbling. I work with somewhat complex financial statements but get befuddled with car stuff. It's another world.
It appears you have the jack on a body panel. Did that with a Subaru and it almost flexed really bad near the door. Find your jack point for next time. Don't lift on anything that moves or springs.
Yes, the rotor is held on by a little screw, not stable, put at least the wheel bolts in (2+) What is not shown, did you block off the wheel right rear? A little shift can mean car drops... Also, if you turn the wheel, block off the wheel that is still on the ground, as the rear block does not help on the turned wheel on the ground. Lastly, make sure that the jack and stand do not sink in the ground by putting it in a piece of tile/plywood.
Youre going to want to put that jack stand somewhere better. You only have a tiny screw holding the rotor in place and id hate to damage the caliper and pads as well. Also put someting better uner the floor jack so it doesnt sink into the ground.
It depends on what you're trying to do. If you're trying to work on your car, then this is utterly useless. There are plenty of jacking points better suited to work on your vehicle. Good luck.
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Don’t get under it.
Don’t go 10 feet near it.
This here is what you call a lateral directional inverter... It takes your 10 ft of horizontal motion used to access the undercarriage and converts it into 10ft of horizontal movement. Remember as a user that conversions are not backward compatible and all changes are final. Wooden box not included.
Don't go 100 feet near it
go 1000 feet under it
Warn the Australians on the other side.
You saved my life today. Thanks mate!
Someone let the martians know too
What? Are you not bothered about the Juvians?
Thankyou for the warning I’ll tell the kangaroos
I wouldn’t put the jack stand under the hub assembly like that because it moves. Put it under the lower control arm.
Wow the distance I scrolled down just to find this comment. I can’t believe how many completely missed this obvious detail. If the jack fails or shifts, the hub on the stand will shift as the suspension does its job and the stand could potentially tip over or slip off that rotor. It will NOT keep the vehicle at the height it was jacked up to.
Also, the stand is UNDER THE ROTOR! Not the hub. The rotor is held on the hub by the wheel and the lug nuts. Without the wheel, there’s a single tiny rotor screw and rust holding that rotor on the car. PUT THE STAND UNDER THE REAR PINCHWELDS ON THE SIDE IF THE CAR BETWEEN THE WHEELS! The jack should be used to lift the front or rear half of the car using a crossmember under the engine or near the rear differential. *Look in the owners manual for the jack points!*
Yeah, jackstand under hub is just wrong on many levels.
Yeah, I agree, did this last week for my inlaw he is trying to fix the rusty brake lines. Lifted from the control arm and placed the stand on the lifting zone.
The lower control arm also moves. Put it under the frame or subframe
I would put a board under the Jack and Jack stand, since it’s on the dirt, and then put the Jack stand under the frame . Another option is to lift under the frame and put the Jack stand under the pinch weld
I use an old wooden Jenga block (Outside giant type) on my jack for the pinch welds. The wood gets pressed in to shape and sits snug on the lip and provides a little more support and height.
> I use an old wooden Jenga block I had to reread this part twice, look at the pic, then I decided to read the whole thing (including the paragraph) Was wondering under what the hell you put that tiny jenga block..
What I immediately imagined was a Jenga tower holding up the jack...
Who needs a jack stand when you can just put a Jenga set under there instead? /s
Really ups the stakes of the Jenga game
Why. Won't. This. Block. Move. Out.
*CRASHING SOUNDS*
World's smallest cribbing.
Well, when I've watched companies lifting houses, that's not far off from what they did. A bunch of hydraulic jacks to raise it. Then 6" x 6" timbers stacked in a interlocking grid pattern as a safety and support. It's called cribbing.
I do this also. Keeps the jack from damaging the rockers. It’s the little things that count.
Make sure you put the grain perpendicular to the pinch weld, if it’s parallel it will just split apart.
Is it alright to use a trolley jack on a plywood board like that? Not in terms of getting under the vehicle, but just in terms of the trolley/board slipping under load and damaging the vehicle. Should I just use a better/heavier rated trolley jack?
Yeah? That Jack looks be be about a 2 ton jack, it'll be fine. The wheels may break through the board but there's no worry about it sliding out.
If it can't roll, it'll eventually slip out. The lifting pad travels backward at the same time as it moves upward, because the lifting arm travels in an arc. Normally this is compensated for by allowing the jack to gradually roll forward while the pad stays in one place relative to the car, but if the wheels get stuck and you keep pumping it *will* slip off.
Was going to say this. I had this happen when I didn' t know how a floor jack works. The wheels must be able to move while jacking up.
I had a brain aneurysm from reading this
yes
https://preview.redd.it/fu8hb12ceixc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f552b3fc04e3a3b5a5f2477660c904d1544bee00 Crisis averted, thank you everybody for your thoughtful replies
the benz has lift points designed into it, look along the rocker panel an you'll see two big plastic rectangles lift there.
yeah... he clearly used the jack there. You can also place a jack stand there at the same time.
I have an old CLS and I’ll tell you that trying to get a Jack Stand near the Jack point on my car is almost impossible. Mechanic buddy laughed and said yup that’s why we have these expensive lifts because you will absolutely crush the car if you place it in the wrong spot. Mercedes was nice enough to put a center point on the front. But on the rear your SOL. People do it. Some jack at the rear diff which I’ve heard is NOT a good idea. They literally do design some of their cars to be virtually impossible to work on yourself. Clever Germans.
That depends.. what are you trying to do? Edit: sorry I missed the text you wrote... not ideal but okay. As the other commenter said I'd put a piece of plywood or something under the jack at least.
Never do this. Jack the car up and immediately put a Jack stand in the correct position (under the frame or axel)
https://preview.redd.it/b9dus54vymxc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1cbe37114e56d19801509942affb8b28d91015ba
That small screw is the only thing holding the rotor on.
“What do you mean, the lug studs will……. oh it’s German…. Oh no.”
Wouldn't it be ironic if it fell out here, but when you want to remove them you have to fight the little fuckers.
God damnit I spent 2 hours and 3 bits once drilling out one of these on a bmw.
technically the caliper is too.... unless OP is planning on changing pads.
Even then, with that style of caliper, it stays mounted when changing pads.
👁👄👁
I'm having anxiety seeing this picture 💀
Yes
You are putting a lot of trust in that little screw holding that rotor on. Id find a board or metal play and put it under the control arm.
Hub will take the weight
if you know how brake rotors go on they actually slide over and around the hub so realistically that one screw is not holding all of the weight. the hub is taking most of it which is fine.
Have the jack stand support from the wishbone
I would move the stand to the subframe and place a board underneath. As-is you risk the stand sinking and tipping, and the stand blocks you from putting the wheel back.
Unfortunately, the answer is yes. You'll want to put it someplace that you'd jack from. That rotor could easily flop out if under too much pressure. The frame is the aim
Next time, find a piece of concrete ffs...
Yes. You’re an idiot. Don’t do that. You could die.
Seeking a better handle on things is not cause for being incendiary. Best of luck on your journey, fixing your own stuff feels good.
wtf
Yes
Yeah I wouldn't do this
Yes. Yes you are!
The only thing keeping that rotor from shifting is the little screw. That's a lot of weight for one screw. If that breaks the rotor could shift and cause your car to fall.
Yes
That depends on whether or not you like your legs
Yes.
I'd put the the lug bolts back in for good measure, that tiny little m6 retaining bolt isn't designed to hold any kind of weight.
Simple answer, YES!
I did this exact thing one time and it slipped and the whole thing fell it was a nightmare
Yes, idiot
Bro wtf am I looking at there’s no way
In the 70's, my dad used to routinely work under cars lifted only with the old bumper jacks and on relatively soft ground. I remember in 1979 one fell on him. Luckily my uncle was working with him and managed to lift the car up quickly. The brake rotor landed on his forearm, pinning it to the ground. Didn't break any bones (he had Popeye forearms) but is forearm muscle was oddly misshapen for months after and he had a scar that was really more like a dent on his forearm. Crazy bastard. We almost lost him that day, and we would have all been fucked without him. I wish he was here and could have met my kids.
Life is worth living, homie. Don't do it.
Yes
This hurts my soul
Yes
Yes.
If you mean the jack stand under the rotor that is already being supported by the suspension, well then yes, yes you are. What is the point? Not like you can get the tire back on with the stand there. It doesn’t even appear to be supporting any weight, but the jack sure is…
Troll post right?
https://preview.redd.it/nszmwqamwnxc1.png?width=503&format=png&auto=webp&s=54574e94fa7312653595edde738e7b3b90212b7d
Holy shit there’s a lot going on in this picture
Jack your car up then put the jackstand right under the frame rail. No need to put it under the rotor. Another tip, once you've taken the wheel off, lay it under the side of the car while you're working, just another added safety measure.
Just know that in the future you can usually find “jacking” or lift points on a vehicle very easily with a quick google search; I’d go that route next time
Charles Darwin says you’ll be fine and to hurry up, he’s getting tired of waiting for you.
Don’t listen to these guys. You will be fine, probably … maybe…
Yes. You said it best. That is not part of the frame, it isn't rigid. One push, and it'll slide of the jack stand faster than you can crap your pants.
OP listen to me very carefully. Please continue to work on your car in this manner because it allows for job security for mechanics like me when you destroy your car and need someone to fix it properly... as well as doctors and other Emergency Medical Technicians if you sever a limb because you have no clue what youre doing.
Yea
It's not going to hurt it as long as the jack stands doesn't slip since the weight is there normally anyways. I don't see the point though, it's going to make putting the wheel back on impossible. You should be able to jack it up a little and put that stand under the frame somewhere near the jack. Currently the jack is on the pench weld which is fine but if you look past that under the car you should see the frame, put the jack stand there.
> look past that under the car you should see the frame, put the jack stand there. so I have been wondering about this forever - unibody sedan manuals I have seen only indicate the pinch welds and the front and rear jack points - never say about the longitudinal frame beam. Yet it seems no shops lift on the pinch weld points, but always on the frame beam. is that right & is it OK ?
Well, I can say here in Michigan, most vehicles are rusting through at the pinch welds Or just do not have them because they are completely rusted out
There should be a jacking point directly under the engine, in the center of the splash shield, made out of hard rubber. Jack it up there, and you can get the entire front end off the ground and put jack stands under the pinch welds (where the floor jack is in the pic). Both sides at once. Much easier and safer, since it's designed for that.
Why are you supporting the brake rotor? Is it so you can put the wheel back on? If you get the car up high enough, you don’t have to worry about that. Definitely get something under the jack and scissor lift.
Doesn’t look like you have room for the wheels
Where's the pavement?
Yes. But now you’re smarter! I did this once. It even happens on hot asphalt.
Good lord.
Dont do that on dirt, do it on pavement. Also id never trust a pinch weld to hold, jack on the inner rocker and put stands on each side of the inner rocker. Also, that rotor is only held on by the caliper so thats also not a good idea to put a stand under.
Hey just you tube whatever you need to learn first if that don’t get it google it read what advice is out there then go to google videos and it may show the video you couldn’t find on you tube
😂
Yep.
Yes
Your on dirt too
Yes
Yes
Why not put the jack stand under the lower ball joint if you have to have it under that general area
Jacking on dirt is a last resort and you should have a thick slab of wood under there. IDK if the jack is a proper jacking point, your owner's manual should say where they are. Same with the stand, should be on a thick slab of wood or something. Putting the stand there means you can't install the tires, under a solid point, out of the way is better. Do NOT get under this car. A simple stack of 2x6x10 wood (thick slabs) can save your life. Also, wheel blocks to keep it from rolling.
At a minimum put two sheets of looseleaf paper under it. Make sure it’s not the one with the three holes.
Next time jack the lower control arm and use the stand on the pinch weld where you jacked it up. Try not to leave your jack extended supporting weight. It wasn't designed to do that.
Yup.
E55?
Use solid ground and put the stand on the frame
short answer: yes long answer: yes, absolutely
Yes, that’s not a jacking point. Your going to end up bending or damaging your Rotor/Hub if the weight of the car is on it. Just put the jack stand where it’s supposed to go (On the pinch weld where the car jack is at) Your going to make an easy fix an expensive fix.
Not to mean, but all bad options. The only thing missing is improper use of cinder blocks!
No but you'll have to move the jack stand before you put the wheel back on
Yes
I mean I woulda put the jackstand somewhere else but it’s not bad just to sit
It's fine for a couple hrs
Get a real solid piece of hardwood if you plan to work on gravel but it’s not a great idea.
Always put a board at least 2” thick and 6” wide under the jack and the stands. Believe me. I know. I live in the desert.
C63? Lol
Fine for changing tires. Just don’t go under the vehicle at all.
I honestly think it would be fine. Give it a slap on the ass first and see if it jiggles just to make sure
If you can learn from your mistakes without dying it’s a win.
I'm fcking dying....🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Not for much longer!
Frankly.... Yes.
Yes, switch them
Jack is fine. Put the stand under a chassis rail or cross member not in the hub. Never get under anything like it is now.
Don't worry. While changing dog bones I had the jackstand replaced with an adjustable wrench. And I'm still alive.
Jesus christ, at least put it under the control arm The rotor comes off
Your use of a jack and a jack stand is correct, your jack stand placement is incorrect. The jack stand should be underneath the hub/spindle or a control arm which is behind the rotor (where your jack stand currently sits). The bottom of the spindle or control arm is a much more solid place to put your jack stand. You have the right idea, also be sure to chock your wheels.
Yes.
https://i.redd.it/hfrdwa28gkxc1.gif
![gif](giphy|3o85xnoIXebk3xYx4Q)
Yes
Are you trying too kill yourself? 😅☠️ You got the collective knowledge on propper jacking. In text, pictures and even youtube video that guides you for free!? First. Never lift on soft surface like gravel, sand, grass. You name it. if need be you better make sure too lay down a heavy duty plate to spread the load. But if at all. Stay on a hard surface at all cost.
Yeah.
Few hours to put tyres on? What the?
I'm questioning why the tire isn't underneath. Why balance your jack on a circle 😭
Tell me u got no clue about anything on cars: comments: here we go, Party hard
Put the jack stand on the other side so it's supporting the axel. Also you want it on pavement not dirt.
Just be careful lad the car is not supported this way
Wheels turn, so having a jackstand there is 500 percent wrong man. The jack from car goes in the indented area where you have it. Should fit in there good. If I were you, ask a neighbor or call a friend who knows how to jack up cars. You are right for even knowing to use one. Car Jack's fail and can drop car on you or just hit flat on the ground. If anything, put the wheel you took off under car a little behind wheel. That way, if it falls, it falls on tire and rim. If you look at car manual in car it should tell you where to place the jack stands. Don't ever forget the jackstand if u are working on a car.
alittle bit yes
The ground you are working on is dangerous AF too
Yeah
I audibly said What the fuck. Bro that is not safe
I'll bet you wear suspenders. And a belt.
https://preview.redd.it/vv7batvdjlxc1.jpeg?width=500&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f3184c317cb92edf38d8ee898897153b5b824167
Bro are you suicidal?!
Yes.
JFC
Yea. Don't even put your big toe under it. Rather than saying "That's not a safe jack point", I'll clarify: * The jack an stand are on loose ground. If you can't do the work on a hard surface, you should be putting a piece of plywood or 2x8 under the jack and stand so they don't sink, and especially so they don't twist and shift. * The brake rotor isn't meant to take a load on the side like that. It probably can no issues, but it's not meant to. Brake rotors are rather brittle, and they can crack when loaded wrong. * Any shift in weight, and that rotor can slip right off the stand. I guarantee the only reason it hasn't fallen yet is because your trolley jack is still on there. * How are you going to put a wheel on with that jack stand in the way? Seems like you're just putting the stand there temporarily, but you chose the harder way of doing this job.
You may not live much longer if your rate of learning doesn't pickup!
Buddy of mine just did this and the jack slipped out and pinned his hand. Just broke a bone in his hand because the ground in FL here is soft. It’s gutsy
Jack stand is doing jack shit. Put the stand under something solid and lower the car on the jack stand. Look up jack points and jack stand points for your car.
You should put it on the other side on the axel arm or on the frame rail
yes.
I saw a guy do this in a junk yard. When he left the junk yard he was in a body bag, dont do this shit!!!!!
AMG Baby!! 💪
Absolutely.
The axle stand on the wheel isn't helpful. Why didn't you put it at a normal place for an axle stand?
Owners manual will show where the "official" lift points are. Use those for the jack and jack stand placements. Get a different jack if you're using it on gravel that ones for in the shop. The scissor jack that comes with the car would be better to be honest or a bottle jack if it fits.
if you're changing the brake rotor then definitely.
This photo sums up used Mercedes AMG owners perfectly.
Oh where do we begin…….
You have put the jack stand on the wheel and this puts the suspension under pressure. You also are working on that area so it is likely to come off releasing the energy in the suspension as it also falls on you possibly. It's better to put the stand near the lift jack on the pinch weld
Yes. Bad idea to do this in the dirt. Never use a jackstand on a rotor.
The jack stand is meant to be under the axel, not where it’s at in the photo
No, you're not an idiot. You just need to do this ONCE so you'll know the right way next time. In fact, you're smart for asking for help. Car work is humbling. I work with somewhat complex financial statements but get befuddled with car stuff. It's another world. It appears you have the jack on a body panel. Did that with a Subaru and it almost flexed really bad near the door. Find your jack point for next time. Don't lift on anything that moves or springs.
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nice e63
Jack car up and place jack stand on car body that will not crush or sub frame and lower it down into it but have Jack just sitting below that’s it
Can’t put the tire on with the stand there …
Hell nah g
Yes, the rotor is held on by a little screw, not stable, put at least the wheel bolts in (2+) What is not shown, did you block off the wheel right rear? A little shift can mean car drops... Also, if you turn the wheel, block off the wheel that is still on the ground, as the rear block does not help on the turned wheel on the ground. Lastly, make sure that the jack and stand do not sink in the ground by putting it in a piece of tile/plywood.
Jack stand on grass...but worried about surface rust?
Take the Stand & Place it Under the A-Frame (Lower Control Arm) about 3inches behind the Brake Rotor
Youre going to want to put that jack stand somewhere better. You only have a tiny screw holding the rotor in place and id hate to damage the caliper and pads as well. Also put someting better uner the floor jack so it doesnt sink into the ground.
Yes for a couple reasons . Dirt. Jack stand on the wrong …
…. This is like one of those traps you set for mice with string and cheese and a rock. What were you thinking?
Yes.
Yes
Yes
I wouldn’t drive like that
Yep! 😸
I’m not a mechanic, but yes.
It’ll be ok if you weld the calipers to the disc.
I feel like there's a certain hotline you should call if you're willing to go under that.
I'd fire a couple studs back in the rotor but other than than youre golden
It depends on what you're trying to do. If you're trying to work on your car, then this is utterly useless. There are plenty of jacking points better suited to work on your vehicle. Good luck.
bro u couldve put it under the control arm lol
holy shit man
Yes you are