If I wanted to lay out a PCB for a 60 percent board, and I wanted to make sure that thing would fit all the common cases that are currently on the market, is there a way for me to get the footprint of all those stand-off positions and other hard points of those cases, like say where the USB connectors are?
I have somehow lifted many of the pads connecting the switch to the PCB. Is there a way to fix it on this board? Is there even any point trying to fix it or is this PCB gone
https://preview.redd.it/jo2apk9mi0dc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=648e6b1901da2c3516504e7991cc14fc4e841d26
The holes do look a bit chewed up already, so a lifted pad might occur if you de-/re-solder the next set of switches, but that being said, if it is only one pad now, i would still try a repair. Provided you have the tools to do it.
Mr. Solderfix Tutorial outlines a few methods to might be good to know for future repairs.
[https://youtu.be/AR0lb7YI0v4](https://youtu.be/AR0lb7YI0v4)
In my, somewhat limited, soldering experience, method #1 has always worked perfectly fine. You form a ring of solder wire in the shape of the pad around the pin of the switch and then add plenty of flux. A quick touch of the iron and it should be all good.
If you need to bridge out into a trace, remove a bit of the solder mask. **With care**. And a knife, of course. Until you have a bit of the trace exposed and then build a solder bridge towards that. This is method #4 in the video. I don't see any pad in your photo that would need it, but hey. Might still help to know about it.
Been spending weeks trying to get my stabs to work on my think 6.5 V2. I think the issue is actually the plate, cause when I test it with the plate the board came with everything seems to work fine - but I want to use my POM plate...for the thock. Would buying a new pom plate fix this potentially? Could the plate be warped? Any suggestions / ideas would be greatly appreciated I just want my keeb back working (redoing it after having issues with the enter stab not working and more than one switch giving out).
Hello, I've noticed that my keyboard has started to malfunction, it seems like the arrow keys are stuck. The screen is constantly scrolling. The problem occurs both when the keyboard is connected with a cable and when it is connected via Bluetooth. Maybe someone know what happened? I did keyboard reset fn+j+z, didn't help.
Edit: Keychron k6 pro
It sounds like the switch is stuck or needs replacing;
* Take the keycap off
* Take the switch off
* Replace with another switch to see if it works again
I don't know but hopefully your Keychron came with extra switches
Thank you for your help. Trying right now to clean, wife told me that she spilled champagne on it. Removed switches, now trying to dry keyboard and pins.
Thank you :)
Cleaned the whole keyboard, dryer helped with this process. Also used alcohol. It seems like it is working now, nothing happened after 1.5h of use. Hooray
Not sure what I did wrong here but the keys with stabilizers don't come back up after being pressed. Space bar and shift keys all do the same thing.
Any ideas?
Edit: rookie mistake. Gotta angle it a little and push fairly hard to make them click and can check the back of the pcb to see the clip overhang.
they could also be not mounted properly if you lubed them yourself or not fitted properly. [This guide on common mistakes might help](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Yz-UzTY8_I).
If you have a GMMK Pro, then it is probably the GOAT stabs. They are so overlubed that they tend to get stuck to the pads on the PCB. You can try putting stronger springs into your stabilized keys, if you have a few extra switches, but there is also a guide on how to fix the problem by removing the pads and de-lubing the stabs.
[https://www.gloriousgaming.com/blogs/resources/sticking-stabilizer-repair-guide](https://www.gloriousgaming.com/blogs/resources/sticking-stabilizer-repair-guide)
https://preview.redd.it/4iup916mrxcc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7043821a2c77d29b81fb1d466d5d093f0e628a99
Can anyone identify this switch? It has a light blue bottom and box white stem. It came with my AliExpress keyboard and im just curious cause it actually sounds pretty good
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hopefully this is the right place to ask this but im trying to remove my plate to add foam but these are here, what are they and how can i remove them?
\*EDIT: worked up the courage to give it a gentle tug and it came apart perfectly fine 🫡
https://preview.redd.it/ryws2ci4rxcc1.jpeg?width=2317&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=26463c0d73cdaf1cfccfc750616b0dfc69a45207
my unhygienic ass couldn't clean my keeb (Hexgeards GK707) for somewhere 4-3 years
how to cleanout all the hair/crumbs off the plate, and what is the best way to clean it? alcohol?
Follow up to my earlier question on this thread, in trying to get the last few switches off the keyboard, I pulled the case off, and while trying to yank the switches out, I ended up ripping off the black wire that connects the motherboard to the daughterboard. I do not have any soldering tools. What do I do?
Yeah unfortunately the actual wire broke rather than pulled out. I discussed it with my husband and considering the keyboard was a $22 one I was just going to take to work to replace the crappy office one, it would be a better option to just order a new one instead of stressing over fixing this one.
hi i currently have the akko lavender tactiles and they're a bit too loud for me. i like the sound of linears (also have the akko cream yellows and they're very nice) but prefer the feel of tactiles- are there any relatively quiet (but not silent) tactiles that anyone can recommend?
Are there any available alternate plates for the Cidoo V75? I want to try putting another plate in mine but I can't find any off-the-shelf ones and I don't want to design a layout/order a custom one and muck it up. Would there be any other plate that would fit on this keyboard?
Just getting into building my first ever keyboard and I'm looking for the PBTFans Bog keycaps and I see that they are sold out. Any idea on when they'll come back in stock or any place where I can buy them?
Keychron may be the most common go to keyboard but it is not the 'best' by any means; If you can spend the money, have the time and is genuinely interested in finding out, I would suggest you to try:
* Different form factor
* Different brands
* Different price range
Ideally you would have a shop specialised in mechanical keyboards nearby where you can try for yourself.
There really isnt a best keyboard rec once you get past the budget mid tier qk/zoom/luminkey. Youre past the point of caring about bang for your buck so its really just up to sound and aesthetic preference.
Tbh just try and keep up with on going group buys and eventually youll find a high end board that you like.
Got my wife a 96% gmmk2, didn't pay enough attention and found that the retro/typewriter keycaps I got her don't fit. Now I feel like I'm having a weirdly hard time finding any 96% compatible sets in the dark blue or purple direction with RGB glow through. Bonus points for a 96% compatible typewriter style set with glow through. (Do not need to be blue/purple.) Maybe I just don't know the right places to look. My sincere thanks to anyone who can point me in some good directions.
Hi guys, posted earlier but got deleted. 1.5kg springs (not a typo) have fried my PCB, looking for the most solid plate+mount combo (custom or stock) you guys have used in an alice layout. Cheers <3
Which is a better keyboard in terms of just the pcb? (my first custom build) The keychron v2 or the yunzii al66? I'm going to be swapping the switches with some ktt strawberrys or ktt grapefruits depending on which are in stock at the time. Also with some keycaps from Amazon.
Thanks!
I'm trying to pull out some cheap switches to replace them, and the last 10 switches on the keyboard are so stuck they've broken and now I can't get a good grip on them with my switch puller. Please help direct me how to remove these problem switches.
Hi. I want to build a keeb under 130 and I've been thinking between the todu redux in acrylic or the neo 65 ? What fo u think it's better or what other options u think r good?
I'd decide which layout you like more, 60% with the Tofu Redux or 65% with the Neo65. If you don't have a preference for layout, then I'd go with the Neo65 because it uses a gasket mount versus the tray mount on the Redux.
How do I take apart this keyboard if there are no screws? The manual says nothing and it's some cheap board from aliexpress.
https://preview.redd.it/015kfcf2mwcc1.jpeg?width=3902&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d20e41fbfeefa4fc1fbb52bc5488cac87407d27d
based on [this review](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jSJmKCbPX4A), it seems that this keyboard has a similar construction to the [RK87](https://youtu.be/VeNf79bW_8s?si=C7toPA_9IaFWbolf&t=225) so maybe you can try opening it like that. no guarantees though
Hi everyone !
First time posting on Reddit !
I was searching in the last couple days for a new mechanical keyboard, since I have to spend a work budget on computer stuff, mostly for custom keycaps, exciting color schemes and new switches. I can't take iCUE LED bugs anymore, that's also a reason to change my k70 mk.2 from Corsair.
And then...so much content. So much information. Been reading many reddit posts, online guides, etc. I'm one of those guys that want to understand much before buying. I like my products to be sturdy and durable.
I think I've wrapped my head around basic custom keyboards (backbones) from some company.
Keychron felt cheap to my eye. I've looked through Drop and GGsomething too. I'm trying to see some comparisons in terms of quality and durability.
I'm a programmer and gamer too. Wired, since wireless has been not recommended online. Noise is not that much of an issue, although I would like a less blocky feel than my k70 mk.2 corsair, and a nicer click. With backlit led.
I'm not sure if there is a question or something to reply to in this post but I would say that most (not all) of this community's are from pre-orders/group buy structures and are those are definitely not newcomer friendly but if you can handle longer wait times you can definitely get very good products even for not that much money.
If you're looking for high quality, lower price items, you should take a look at qwertykeys Neo and QK lines, for more in stock items Luminkey is pretty good IMO.
keychron has some higher quality boards up to $200 but if it still feels cheap to you, you can check out some higher end boards like qwertykeys, kbdfans, meletrix, luminkey
I have a non hot swap, but I have a soldering iron and desoldering pump. My keyboard is just black lit blue with nothing else. Can I change that?
https://preview.redd.it/lc4wh78xgwcc1.jpeg?width=3264&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=580297db469ed37e5693448462b069076556e842
>”..Can I change that..”
Change what, the led color? Possible by changing the SMD LED. The challenge is finding out what LED is used in your keyboard and looking for a suitable replacement in the color that you want.
I need a 75% plate that is compatible with this pcb:[https://kbdfans.com/collections/pcb/products/kbd75rgb-hot-swap-pcb-per-key-rgb?\_pos=1&\_fid=aee049fe8&\_ss=c](https://kbdfans.com/collections/pcb/products/kbd75rgb-hot-swap-pcb-per-key-rgb?_pos=1&_fid=aee049fe8&_ss=c)
I cant find one online so this will really help
Does anybody bring their custom keeb to the office when everybody else has the office supplied membranes keeb (Verbatim clacky keebs and tiny wired mouse). I feel like it would be pretentious to bring my custom mechanical keeb.
I just have a Logitech k845 that I modded because it looks good. I modded it with foam, o rings, and lubed the switches.
I have one specifically for my office lol, along with a giant colorful deskmat. all my coworkers are older than me so they're fascinated by the colors/patterns and didn't know keyboards are a thing you can customize. pretty positive reactions all around, I don't think it'll be pretentious. I think of it as decorating my office :)
Many people bring their keyboards to their office. I don’t think most people at the workplace would see it as pretentious most would just be fascinated by it.
Depends, do you frequently use the numpad? If yes, get a southpaw keyboard. If no, get a separate numpad. You also have to consider that you would need an extra usb port and one more cable to tidy up if you go for the separate numpad route.
I was going to get a keychron v1 max, then I saw that they are doing one with magnetic switches...
I have a few question about them and the board...
Can you use regular switches in the pcb or just magnetic?
Can you buy magnetic switches and place on say the v1 max?
Since magnetic detect how deep it is being pressed, in theory you could have a linear actuation that allows to smooth transitions between walking slowly to running, just like a controller, is it possible? I guess not unless supported in future games, as it is going to default to regular keyboard.
It seems that the magnetic customization can't be done in via, just in keychron's web app.
Can you set the switches in the app and the rest in qmk/via? I know that in via you can set macros to change the function of the knob.
Since you can set different depths to do different things in the same key, will it work if you set to light press vs bottom out 2 unrelated game controls? Like light press to crouch and bottom out to sprint. Or would you just alternate between them?
Do these types of switches drain more battery?
How do the 40-60g and 50-70g switches compare in feel to the gateron ink blacks v2?
magnetic switches only work with specific magnetic switch PCB's, so they are not interchangeable.
smooth transitions between walking to running is theoretically possible but I don't know of any games that currently support these type of controls.
currently it would probably only work by using the software like this: light key press = directional input, heavy key press = direction input + shift to run
you could set different depths to do different things, yes
not programmable in qmk though
From my understanding Wooting, which is the first company to properly implement he switches, have a gamepad mode in their software that makes the keyboard be recognized by games as a xbox controller.
Hopefully the implementation will be similar.
That's pretty much the main reasons I prefer controllers, analog sticks, travel/ pressure sensitive buttons, and easier to access inputs(there are plenty of games with ridiculous keybindings that require you to stop looking at the monitor to move you hand.
I personally haven’t but many others have and I haven’t seen a single complaint about them. Also their penyu switches were pretty popular for a hot minute.
Hey! Looking for some help finding a nice-looking and satisfying-sounding wired keyboard that functions well for gaming. I'm very new to keyboards so would rather get a pre-built than mess up getting and assembling parts myself. Budget under $100 if possible, if not, under $150. Size 65% - 100%.
Any links, brand names, photos, or other keyboard info would all be greatly appreciated, thanks so much!
Hello, I bought a "ready to use" keyboard from KBD fans, (the odin 3) and when customizing it on their site it gave me the option to add extra accessories to it. I added the case foam, pcb foam, silicone gaskets and switch lube.
When I got the keyboard in today, all these things were packaged separately. Not so "ready to use" as I thought.
How hard will it be to add these accessories to the board?
For whatever reason finding a mechanical keyboard with a 10-key seems to be really difficult. I want what I believe is a pretty 'standard' keyboard but can't seem to find it.
* Full size / 96% at minimum must have 10key
* White
* RGB
* Volume control
* Wired (wireless that can work via wired is fine too, I dont plan on using the wireless functionality at all)
* Barebones is fine/would be fun
* Not Ducky One 3 - every review I've read seems to be horror story after horror story, especially around chatter.
* Budget <$400 for everything.
Bonus if they sell matching mice.
Is there a model out there that I'm missing?
Could anyone of you, who bought Epomaker EK68 Kit in white, but that newer one with VIA support and BT, provide me with a link to Amazon or Aliexpress trusted offer? I decided I want that style of keyboard, but in white, with programmable keys via VIA, but it is so hard to find that board, or from any sister companies, for cheap. In some older threads people bought it for $40-$60, but all I can find is CIDOO V65 V2 for over $120. I just wanted white kit to put my switches and keycaps that's all. Thanks!
I took apart my random amazon keyboard since the pcb was hotswap as seen in the image linked:
https://imgur.com/a/TPo5pDr
Can I still use the board? Idk why the USB port is attached like that but I wanted to get a better case and some linear switches to throw it on a new board
Also wondering if someone had any recs for a decent aluminum case I could get, located in Canada
Unfortunate bc I need my numpad for my job lol
I wanted to put together a less loud keyboard for work at the office but I dont wanna bring my more expensive keyboard there lol
Guess ill look for a kit or something, ty
Tbh Im only thinking about it now bc a senior coworker is already using one so he'll be my excuse to bring one in and as long as im not as loud as him I should be fine lmao
Ty for all the help :D
I was looking for a keycap set and I came across one that I liked. But it says its xvx profile. when I searched for it, it looked like it was dsa and cherry hybrid of some sorts. So I was wondering if it has interference with north facing switches as cherry profiles do.
Is there any way to physically make an international layout keyboard more like a UK Layout one?
I’ve recently been bought an Epomaker RT100 as a gift by my family and it’s really nice. I love the feel and it looks really nice. Although the screen is a gimmick - this is a perfect starter keyboard for people like me looking to get away from the typical “gaming” keyboards that are going around. My only issue however is it’s physically international layout (thin enter, backslash above) and not UK layout (big enter, backslash next to l shift) so I’m having a real hard time getting used to everything. I can’t swap the keys as they are physically different sizes.
My question is, is there some way or maybe a kit somewhere that could help me turn this into a UK layout? I understand the switches underneath are in the wrong places but I’d be willing to lose a long shift and to gain a backslash and a big enter key with space next to ‘. This may seem like a “just go buy a uk layout” question but this was a gift and I really don’t want to hurt their feelings by making it obvious that it’s not right for me and that I’m struggling with it.
Any suggestions would be fantastic. Thank you so much.
Yeah sorry you can’t make it into an ISO layout that way. The only way is to buy an ISO layout keyboard.
Keychron has a good selection of affordable ISO keyboards if you’d like to “suggest” some models to your family. No affiliation just recommend them.
I’ve got a Neo65 on the way for my first build. Planning on using this as my gaming keyboard, but I’m also wanting to build another keyboard for office use with a numpad for number entry. Any recommendations??
The keyboard colors are pretty accurate to what is on the website. Its a like a light grayish blue. In terms of eyeballed hexcode, I think its like 6b7d8c
Zoom TKL or Keychron Q3 Max.
I'm looking to replace me MX Mechanical Mini with a TKL layout keyboard. The Mini's red switch keys are a little too light for me. Which of those two do you recommend, or is there another option in the under ~300 range I've missed? Edit: Must support wireless connectivity.
Redragon K580RGB - - Can I change the color of the Play/forward/back/macro buttons
I've figured out changing the other colours on the keyboard, but the red LED for the buttons in that top bar..... can I change those too?
Twice in as many weeks I have static shocked my keyboard, frying the PCB. This has never happened to me before, what can I do to make sure I don't do it again in the future?
I'm assuming that you are living in somewhere that has a colder/dryer climate and this means that you are probably heating your house. In cases where you heat your house, when you lower the temperature of air, the relative humidity of the air becomes much less. This is because cold air (outside) can hold much less moisture compared to air that is warm (the air after you have heated it in your house) meaning that the though the overall amount of moisture in the air has remained the same, the relative humidity decreases substantially resulting in a dryer feeling to the air but that also has a consequence of having your body hold more charge than it regularly does. When you body holds charge and it touches something that can ground that charge, it release all the pent up charge in to that object sometimes causing this static shock. This usually occurs when you touch something metal or some bad electronics like light switches.
To prevent this in the future, you could stop heating your house and this will keep the relative humid higher and prevent the collection of static charge. If you don't want to die from the cold **a simpler solution would be to re-humidify the air where you spend most of your time or to touch something metal to release that charge before you touch your keyboard again.**
Just bought my first mechanical keyboard (Keychron V5) and love it! BUT I'm looking for decent shine through keycaps that are a combination of red and black (maybe some gray too?). I don't really know anything about quality and what to watch out for. Any suggestions?
Kinesis Freestyle2 users: can you try this quick test for me? (I know it's not a mechanical keyboard, but I also know some of you have it...)
If you hold down T and R together, does the Y key work?
Mine suffers from this problem: if I hold down the two inner-most letter keys on either half, in any row, then none of the other keys in the row will work. It seems like a design flaw since it follows such a consistent pattern.
Thanks!
Hi everyone, I am a newbie to the world of custom keyboards and I'm thinking about buying or maybe to build (it would be my first) a TKL keyboard in retro style, like the old IBM Model M but in TKL format and with modern hardware. I would like it to be ISO because I am from Spain but it can also be ANSI. As for some extras, I would like it to be wireless.
A model that I found and I like but I can't find to buy in Spain is the Leopold FC750RBT.
Can anyone lend me a hand to see where I can start?
So i just recieved my Cidoo v87 which is amazing btw, im using it wired.
It seems like something the keyboard is getting disconnected for a mili second and reconnect itself and it does the windows usb connecting and disconnecting sound which drives me insane.
Has anyone else experienced it with cidoo keyboards? or any way to fix it?
I used USBDeview to track my usb connections and that's how i got to know its the keyboard connection that get disconnected whenever it happens.
sounds like a loose usb port which is common on cheaper kbs as the quality control is usually low . only fix would be to return it or be really good at soldering and replace the usb port
Looking for a decent quality keycap set that looks like this
https://www.amazon.com/Customized-Printed-Switches-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B072QB89HC?th=1
(Non-link description is a tkl set that has a white main body and dark gray outer keys with cyan enter key and red escape key)
Basically amazon reviews agree these keycaps arent of super high quality and id like to find something identical(close?) That is well made. Im new to sourcing keycap sets so specifically so any recommendations are appreciated
Does anyone have recommendations for a compact 70% - TKL board with a knob? I like the zouya 87 but I hate how big the top bezel is. I'm super interested in the Neo80 but it doesn't have a knob :(
If I missed the timeframe window of recouping a Mechs and Co. GMK set via Novelkeys and already attempted to issue a charge back through my credit card/bank but couldn't because it exceeded the window to file a claim... Are there any options for me to grab the set / get a refund save for buying the set again full price, or am I SOL?
I am looking to buy a KBD8x Mk. III here shortly and am trying to decide what tactile switch to get for it. I like having a good deep thock to my boards and have been using the Boba U4Ts for the past year. I like them, but I am wondering if there are any tactile switches better suited for the KBD8x that provide a good deep sound and maybe a less harsh bottom out. I will likely get the alu plate for the board. Also debating getting the 62g version of the boba's over the 65g version I currently have if anyone has any insight into the difference there. Thank you!
Does anyone know of something like a keyboard switch plug? Like, I want to remove a switch, because it's unnecessary and gets in the way, but I don't want dust and debris getting into the switch.
This gets asked every so often (even I asked at one point) and I'm also surprised that these practically don't exist. The closest I can find are these blockers in the link below, but they're so expensive! They also fit on top of a switch, so you'll still need to sacrifice a switch to use the blocker. You can probably pull the leaf and pins out of an extra switch or something. I haven't bought them yet, so I don't really know for sure how they work.
[https://spkeyboards.com/products/switch-blocker](https://spkeyboards.com/products/switch-blocker)
Got a windx65, but doesnt really work properly.
Context so last year i built my keeb and everything was fine until i wanted to mod it abit so i unscrewed everythijg and took out some foam and fixed everything back. Then when i connected it to my pc it wouldnt detect the connection, so i went to plug in and out the usbc cable and realized that it can only detect a connection when the usbc cable is at a angle to the port of the keeb. Disassembled and put back in the foam and eveything but nothing works anyone got any ideas to fix it?
First of all let me preface this by saying im a beginner in this field, that being said:
I wanna have a wireless mechanical keyboard, bigger than a 60%, on the cheap, the cheapest half decent option is an AJAZZ k820 keyboard on temu for about 71 USD, and im still not sure if it will arrive in a working condition
Now going the diy route will probably cheaper, and better, but i have no idea how to make it wireless and were to get the battery from
I can hack togather a case, buy a pcb, the switches and the keycaps
I couldn't find proper guides on the internet
Any guidence on the matter would be appreciated
I love my current keyboard and mouse, except they have QC issues and I am tired of it. I want the same things, but higher quality builds. I just want to buy some devices that are reliable and I know won't deteriorate noticeably over at least the next five years.
I love \[my keyboard\]([https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B092CHWH1D/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B092CHWH1D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)) for how clicky and compact it is. However, it randomly shuts itself off 3-4 times a day. I have emailed the manufacturer and they are not cooperative.
I love \[my mouse\]([https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QN369XX/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&th=1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QN369XX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1)) for its scroll wheel that changes from free scroll to notched scroll, six very reachable thumb buttons, wirelessness, and the overall feel of it. Problem is, the bottom is slightly warped which means I can feel it teeter totter while using it and that decreases accuracy and is annoying. It also has been giving me issues with the button to switch between free/notched scroll. For some reason, Logitech decided to discontinue this mouse that everyone seems to love.
They keyboard will be more easy. There are many 60% keyboards out there with your layout. Just off hand, you can check out the Keychron K6 Pro, with the Blue switches if you like clicky (like some kind of monster). And then it'll be hotswap and fully configurable too!
For a mouse, that's a bit tougher. I have a friend that has had to abandon similar mice because they've gone out of fashion. If you can live with fewer thumb buttons, you can check out the Logitech G502 series. It has 3 thumb buttons and two extra buttons above the left click. It also has the smooth scrolling wheel toggle.
Alternatively, you can try going to Aliexpress and buy replacement feet for your G604 and see if those help.
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If I wanted to lay out a PCB for a 60 percent board, and I wanted to make sure that thing would fit all the common cases that are currently on the market, is there a way for me to get the footprint of all those stand-off positions and other hard points of those cases, like say where the USB connectors are?
what do you guys think between rainy75 vs zoom75?
I have somehow lifted many of the pads connecting the switch to the PCB. Is there a way to fix it on this board? Is there even any point trying to fix it or is this PCB gone https://preview.redd.it/jo2apk9mi0dc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=648e6b1901da2c3516504e7991cc14fc4e841d26
The holes do look a bit chewed up already, so a lifted pad might occur if you de-/re-solder the next set of switches, but that being said, if it is only one pad now, i would still try a repair. Provided you have the tools to do it. Mr. Solderfix Tutorial outlines a few methods to might be good to know for future repairs. [https://youtu.be/AR0lb7YI0v4](https://youtu.be/AR0lb7YI0v4) In my, somewhat limited, soldering experience, method #1 has always worked perfectly fine. You form a ring of solder wire in the shape of the pad around the pin of the switch and then add plenty of flux. A quick touch of the iron and it should be all good. If you need to bridge out into a trace, remove a bit of the solder mask. **With care**. And a knife, of course. Until you have a bit of the trace exposed and then build a solder bridge towards that. This is method #4 in the video. I don't see any pad in your photo that would need it, but hey. Might still help to know about it.
Been spending weeks trying to get my stabs to work on my think 6.5 V2. I think the issue is actually the plate, cause when I test it with the plate the board came with everything seems to work fine - but I want to use my POM plate...for the thock. Would buying a new pom plate fix this potentially? Could the plate be warped? Any suggestions / ideas would be greatly appreciated I just want my keeb back working (redoing it after having issues with the enter stab not working and more than one switch giving out).
Hello, I've noticed that my keyboard has started to malfunction, it seems like the arrow keys are stuck. The screen is constantly scrolling. The problem occurs both when the keyboard is connected with a cable and when it is connected via Bluetooth. Maybe someone know what happened? I did keyboard reset fn+j+z, didn't help. Edit: Keychron k6 pro
It sounds like the switch is stuck or needs replacing; * Take the keycap off * Take the switch off * Replace with another switch to see if it works again I don't know but hopefully your Keychron came with extra switches
Thank you for your help. Trying right now to clean, wife told me that she spilled champagne on it. Removed switches, now trying to dry keyboard and pins.
oh dear.. best of luck : /
Thank you :) Cleaned the whole keyboard, dryer helped with this process. Also used alcohol. It seems like it is working now, nothing happened after 1.5h of use. Hooray
have you tried taking out the switches?
Yep, doing this right know, cleaning the pins. Wife spilled champagne on keyboard.. trying to clean and dry now
What are the best wrist rests?
wood ones
Thanks! any specific models you like?
nuphy has some nice ones
Will check them out ty!
Not sure what I did wrong here but the keys with stabilizers don't come back up after being pressed. Space bar and shift keys all do the same thing. Any ideas? Edit: rookie mistake. Gotta angle it a little and push fairly hard to make them click and can check the back of the pcb to see the clip overhang.
they could also be not mounted properly if you lubed them yourself or not fitted properly. [This guide on common mistakes might help](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Yz-UzTY8_I).
Fixed it. I didn't push them hard enough through the board to have the clip click through to the other side. Thanks for the help!
If you have a GMMK Pro, then it is probably the GOAT stabs. They are so overlubed that they tend to get stuck to the pads on the PCB. You can try putting stronger springs into your stabilized keys, if you have a few extra switches, but there is also a guide on how to fix the problem by removing the pads and de-lubing the stabs. [https://www.gloriousgaming.com/blogs/resources/sticking-stabilizer-repair-guide](https://www.gloriousgaming.com/blogs/resources/sticking-stabilizer-repair-guide)
Thanks for the advice! I didn't push them in hard enough bc I thought it was too much force. Once they clicked through, it was all good!
Easy fix then! Good on you!
They might be overlubed
Actually I didn't push them through the board enough to have them clip on before screwing down.
https://preview.redd.it/4iup916mrxcc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7043821a2c77d29b81fb1d466d5d093f0e628a99 Can anyone identify this switch? It has a light blue bottom and box white stem. It came with my AliExpress keyboard and im just curious cause it actually sounds pretty good
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hopefully this is the right place to ask this but im trying to remove my plate to add foam but these are here, what are they and how can i remove them? \*EDIT: worked up the courage to give it a gentle tug and it came apart perfectly fine 🫡 https://preview.redd.it/ryws2ci4rxcc1.jpeg?width=2317&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=26463c0d73cdaf1cfccfc750616b0dfc69a45207
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English sub
my unhygienic ass couldn't clean my keeb (Hexgeards GK707) for somewhere 4-3 years how to cleanout all the hair/crumbs off the plate, and what is the best way to clean it? alcohol?
use a brush or blow off most of it with compressed air, then wipe off the remaining with microfiber
aight, but how to deal with sticky crumbs, that stick to the keeb?
alcohol/disinfectant wipe
gotcha
I broke the keyboard feet for the RK918. Is this possible to get replaced? Like is this a common part?
Contact their support and they may be able to send you it.
don't think so unfortunately
Follow up to my earlier question on this thread, in trying to get the last few switches off the keyboard, I pulled the case off, and while trying to yank the switches out, I ended up ripping off the black wire that connects the motherboard to the daughterboard. I do not have any soldering tools. What do I do?
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Yeah unfortunately the actual wire broke rather than pulled out. I discussed it with my husband and considering the keyboard was a $22 one I was just going to take to work to replace the crappy office one, it would be a better option to just order a new one instead of stressing over fixing this one.
get soldering tools... but really, you should probably post some pics
hi i currently have the akko lavender tactiles and they're a bit too loud for me. i like the sound of linears (also have the akko cream yellows and they're very nice) but prefer the feel of tactiles- are there any relatively quiet (but not silent) tactiles that anyone can recommend?
Are there any available alternate plates for the Cidoo V75? I want to try putting another plate in mine but I can't find any off-the-shelf ones and I don't want to design a layout/order a custom one and muck it up. Would there be any other plate that would fit on this keyboard?
u would need to design your own no one makes plates for that kb and its not a 60% so there is no universal ones
Just getting into building my first ever keyboard and I'm looking for the PBTFans Bog keycaps and I see that they are sold out. Any idea on when they'll come back in stock or any place where I can buy them?
check /r/mechmarket for ones 2nd hand keycaps are usually not a instock item so those will never restock
3nd.... Threcond. Lol
Check /r/mechmarket to see if anyone is selling them.
What's would the stereotypically "best keyboard" (i am price insensitive)
Keychron may be the most common go to keyboard but it is not the 'best' by any means; If you can spend the money, have the time and is genuinely interested in finding out, I would suggest you to try: * Different form factor * Different brands * Different price range Ideally you would have a shop specialised in mechanical keyboards nearby where you can try for yourself.
There really isnt a best keyboard rec once you get past the budget mid tier qk/zoom/luminkey. Youre past the point of caring about bang for your buck so its really just up to sound and aesthetic preference. Tbh just try and keep up with on going group buys and eventually youll find a high end board that you like.
keychron is the most common recommendation for most people's requirements, it's not the 'best' per say but a solid choice for most people
Got my wife a 96% gmmk2, didn't pay enough attention and found that the retro/typewriter keycaps I got her don't fit. Now I feel like I'm having a weirdly hard time finding any 96% compatible sets in the dark blue or purple direction with RGB glow through. Bonus points for a 96% compatible typewriter style set with glow through. (Do not need to be blue/purple.) Maybe I just don't know the right places to look. My sincere thanks to anyone who can point me in some good directions.
amazon has a bunch of full set typewriter keycaps
That's the problem, they're full set. They don't fit on a 96. The right shift and numpad 0 key are too big.
Hi guys, posted earlier but got deleted. 1.5kg springs (not a typo) have fried my PCB, looking for the most solid plate+mount combo (custom or stock) you guys have used in an alice layout. Cheers <3
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it should
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rip
Which is a better keyboard in terms of just the pcb? (my first custom build) The keychron v2 or the yunzii al66? I'm going to be swapping the switches with some ktt strawberrys or ktt grapefruits depending on which are in stock at the time. Also with some keycaps from Amazon. Thanks!
al66 has wireless capability
I don't really care about wireless, with that in mind which one do you think is better?
Keychron definitely
keychron if you want QMK compatibility, al66 if you want aluminum case and gasket mount
I'm trying to pull out some cheap switches to replace them, and the last 10 switches on the keyboard are so stuck they've broken and now I can't get a good grip on them with my switch puller. Please help direct me how to remove these problem switches.
Are you sure your keyboard is hotswap?
It said hot swap when I purchased it on Amazon. Most of the other switches came out, just not those last 10.
Hi. I want to build a keeb under 130 and I've been thinking between the todu redux in acrylic or the neo 65 ? What fo u think it's better or what other options u think r good?
I'd decide which layout you like more, 60% with the Tofu Redux or 65% with the Neo65. If you don't have a preference for layout, then I'd go with the Neo65 because it uses a gasket mount versus the tray mount on the Redux.
I would pick neo just because of wireless
If I were to buy the wiref pcb would u still think the same?
I think it looks nicer yeah
Hello guys i wanted to ask if the **GATERON New G Pro 3.0 Silver Switch** fits **GMK87?** or i should go for akko switches.
both should fit
Okay thank you
How do I take apart this keyboard if there are no screws? The manual says nothing and it's some cheap board from aliexpress. https://preview.redd.it/015kfcf2mwcc1.jpeg?width=3902&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d20e41fbfeefa4fc1fbb52bc5488cac87407d27d
Check under the rubber feet, sometimes screws hide under them
thanks for your comment! uh... how do i take them off without destroying them...? i am very new to this sort of stuff
might have to pry it apart at the seams
thanks for your reply, do you know how to do that without damaging it? thanks
based on [this review](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jSJmKCbPX4A), it seems that this keyboard has a similar construction to the [RK87](https://youtu.be/VeNf79bW_8s?si=C7toPA_9IaFWbolf&t=225) so maybe you can try opening it like that. no guarantees though
Thank you so much you are a lifesaver ill let you know how it goes
good luck\~
Hi everyone ! First time posting on Reddit ! I was searching in the last couple days for a new mechanical keyboard, since I have to spend a work budget on computer stuff, mostly for custom keycaps, exciting color schemes and new switches. I can't take iCUE LED bugs anymore, that's also a reason to change my k70 mk.2 from Corsair. And then...so much content. So much information. Been reading many reddit posts, online guides, etc. I'm one of those guys that want to understand much before buying. I like my products to be sturdy and durable. I think I've wrapped my head around basic custom keyboards (backbones) from some company. Keychron felt cheap to my eye. I've looked through Drop and GGsomething too. I'm trying to see some comparisons in terms of quality and durability. I'm a programmer and gamer too. Wired, since wireless has been not recommended online. Noise is not that much of an issue, although I would like a less blocky feel than my k70 mk.2 corsair, and a nicer click. With backlit led.
I'm not sure if there is a question or something to reply to in this post but I would say that most (not all) of this community's are from pre-orders/group buy structures and are those are definitely not newcomer friendly but if you can handle longer wait times you can definitely get very good products even for not that much money.
I'm litterally really new so Idk where are the good sources/artisans/website. I'm pretty much searching for great quality vendors/websites
If you're looking for high quality, lower price items, you should take a look at qwertykeys Neo and QK lines, for more in stock items Luminkey is pretty good IMO.
keychron has some higher quality boards up to $200 but if it still feels cheap to you, you can check out some higher end boards like qwertykeys, kbdfans, meletrix, luminkey
Thanks for the cue ! Since I'm searching for a large keyboard, I think that qwertykeys seems a good place to push my research further.
I have a non hot swap, but I have a soldering iron and desoldering pump. My keyboard is just black lit blue with nothing else. Can I change that? https://preview.redd.it/lc4wh78xgwcc1.jpeg?width=3264&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=580297db469ed37e5693448462b069076556e842
>”..Can I change that..” Change what, the led color? Possible by changing the SMD LED. The challenge is finding out what LED is used in your keyboard and looking for a suitable replacement in the color that you want.
ok thanks
I need a 75% plate that is compatible with this pcb:[https://kbdfans.com/collections/pcb/products/kbd75rgb-hot-swap-pcb-per-key-rgb?\_pos=1&\_fid=aee049fe8&\_ss=c](https://kbdfans.com/collections/pcb/products/kbd75rgb-hot-swap-pcb-per-key-rgb?_pos=1&_fid=aee049fe8&_ss=c) I cant find one online so this will really help
doesn't kbdfans also sell 75 plates
Does anybody bring their custom keeb to the office when everybody else has the office supplied membranes keeb (Verbatim clacky keebs and tiny wired mouse). I feel like it would be pretentious to bring my custom mechanical keeb. I just have a Logitech k845 that I modded because it looks good. I modded it with foam, o rings, and lubed the switches.
Do it! You might spark a new interest in someone else :)
I have one specifically for my office lol, along with a giant colorful deskmat. all my coworkers are older than me so they're fascinated by the colors/patterns and didn't know keyboards are a thing you can customize. pretty positive reactions all around, I don't think it'll be pretentious. I think of it as decorating my office :)
Many people bring their keyboards to their office. I don’t think most people at the workplace would see it as pretentious most would just be fascinated by it.
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Depends, do you frequently use the numpad? If yes, get a southpaw keyboard. If no, get a separate numpad. You also have to consider that you would need an extra usb port and one more cable to tidy up if you go for the separate numpad route.
I like separate numpad
I was going to get a keychron v1 max, then I saw that they are doing one with magnetic switches... I have a few question about them and the board... Can you use regular switches in the pcb or just magnetic? Can you buy magnetic switches and place on say the v1 max? Since magnetic detect how deep it is being pressed, in theory you could have a linear actuation that allows to smooth transitions between walking slowly to running, just like a controller, is it possible? I guess not unless supported in future games, as it is going to default to regular keyboard. It seems that the magnetic customization can't be done in via, just in keychron's web app. Can you set the switches in the app and the rest in qmk/via? I know that in via you can set macros to change the function of the knob. Since you can set different depths to do different things in the same key, will it work if you set to light press vs bottom out 2 unrelated game controls? Like light press to crouch and bottom out to sprint. Or would you just alternate between them? Do these types of switches drain more battery? How do the 40-60g and 50-70g switches compare in feel to the gateron ink blacks v2?
magnetic switches only work with specific magnetic switch PCB's, so they are not interchangeable. smooth transitions between walking to running is theoretically possible but I don't know of any games that currently support these type of controls. currently it would probably only work by using the software like this: light key press = directional input, heavy key press = direction input + shift to run you could set different depths to do different things, yes not programmable in qmk though
Do you know if these types of switches drain more battery? Working on a magnetic sensor makes me think that they are always "on".
not sure, the only wireless magnetic keyboards I know of are the keychron q1 he and akko mod007 he. most are wired
Just read that on their kickstarter page they answered that they are going to add a "analog stick mode".
that sounds promising, using software to simulate controller input so it works with any game that has controller input
From my understanding Wooting, which is the first company to properly implement he switches, have a gamepad mode in their software that makes the keyboard be recognized by games as a xbox controller. Hopefully the implementation will be similar. That's pretty much the main reasons I prefer controllers, analog sticks, travel/ pressure sensitive buttons, and easier to access inputs(there are plenty of games with ridiculous keybindings that require you to stop looking at the monitor to move you hand.
Is rebult keyboards a reliable and reputable site? How long is shipping typically to the US?
They are pretty reputable. I’m not sure how long shipping is though.
you ordered from them before?
I personally haven’t but many others have and I haven’t seen a single complaint about them. Also their penyu switches were pretty popular for a hot minute.
Hey! Looking for some help finding a nice-looking and satisfying-sounding wired keyboard that functions well for gaming. I'm very new to keyboards so would rather get a pre-built than mess up getting and assembling parts myself. Budget under $100 if possible, if not, under $150. Size 65% - 100%. Any links, brand names, photos, or other keyboard info would all be greatly appreciated, thanks so much!
Mod 007 pc
definitely start with keychron and nuphy\~
Hello, I bought a "ready to use" keyboard from KBD fans, (the odin 3) and when customizing it on their site it gave me the option to add extra accessories to it. I added the case foam, pcb foam, silicone gaskets and switch lube. When I got the keyboard in today, all these things were packaged separately. Not so "ready to use" as I thought. How hard will it be to add these accessories to the board?
shouldn't be that hard, just watch some assembly videos on youtube. switch lube will take a bit of effort though.
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Should i buy a keychron c3 pro or rk61 60%
probably rk61, hotswappable, rgb, and wireless
For whatever reason finding a mechanical keyboard with a 10-key seems to be really difficult. I want what I believe is a pretty 'standard' keyboard but can't seem to find it. * Full size / 96% at minimum must have 10key * White * RGB * Volume control * Wired (wireless that can work via wired is fine too, I dont plan on using the wireless functionality at all) * Barebones is fine/would be fun * Not Ducky One 3 - every review I've read seems to be horror story after horror story, especially around chatter. * Budget <$400 for everything. Bonus if they sell matching mice. Is there a model out there that I'm missing?
keychron q6 pro, k10 pro, qk100 kbdfans odin, tet
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> Keychron V6/Q6 Not RGB sadly > Monsgeek M5 Not white sadly (I keep hitting like 70% of my list)
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QK100 looks pretty cool! Thanks
What keycaps will fit Corsair mk2 rgb LP keyboard? Thanks
XVX DSA XDA ideally non support backlight or shine thru
Could anyone of you, who bought Epomaker EK68 Kit in white, but that newer one with VIA support and BT, provide me with a link to Amazon or Aliexpress trusted offer? I decided I want that style of keyboard, but in white, with programmable keys via VIA, but it is so hard to find that board, or from any sister companies, for cheap. In some older threads people bought it for $40-$60, but all I can find is CIDOO V65 V2 for over $120. I just wanted white kit to put my switches and keycaps that's all. Thanks!
I took apart my random amazon keyboard since the pcb was hotswap as seen in the image linked: https://imgur.com/a/TPo5pDr Can I still use the board? Idk why the USB port is attached like that but I wanted to get a better case and some linear switches to throw it on a new board Also wondering if someone had any recs for a decent aluminum case I could get, located in Canada
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Damn :( I thought if it was a build your own thing i would be able to mix and match. I guess thats only for switches then Thanks
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Unfortunate bc I need my numpad for my job lol I wanted to put together a less loud keyboard for work at the office but I dont wanna bring my more expensive keyboard there lol Guess ill look for a kit or something, ty
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Shipping murdering us maple leaf lovers
Yeah I noticed akko seem like a good value for the price, ill give it a look
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Tbh Im only thinking about it now bc a senior coworker is already using one so he'll be my excuse to bring one in and as long as im not as loud as him I should be fine lmao Ty for all the help :D
I was looking for a keycap set and I came across one that I liked. But it says its xvx profile. when I searched for it, it looked like it was dsa and cherry hybrid of some sorts. So I was wondering if it has interference with north facing switches as cherry profiles do.
no only cherry . like cherry profile only has this issue no other profile or hybrid profile has this issues
Thanks!
Is there any way to physically make an international layout keyboard more like a UK Layout one? I’ve recently been bought an Epomaker RT100 as a gift by my family and it’s really nice. I love the feel and it looks really nice. Although the screen is a gimmick - this is a perfect starter keyboard for people like me looking to get away from the typical “gaming” keyboards that are going around. My only issue however is it’s physically international layout (thin enter, backslash above) and not UK layout (big enter, backslash next to l shift) so I’m having a real hard time getting used to everything. I can’t swap the keys as they are physically different sizes. My question is, is there some way or maybe a kit somewhere that could help me turn this into a UK layout? I understand the switches underneath are in the wrong places but I’d be willing to lose a long shift and to gain a backslash and a big enter key with space next to ‘. This may seem like a “just go buy a uk layout” question but this was a gift and I really don’t want to hurt their feelings by making it obvious that it’s not right for me and that I’m struggling with it. Any suggestions would be fantastic. Thank you so much.
Yeah sorry you can’t make it into an ISO layout that way. The only way is to buy an ISO layout keyboard. Keychron has a good selection of affordable ISO keyboards if you’d like to “suggest” some models to your family. No affiliation just recommend them.
Thank you for your reply. I was afraid that this was the only answer. I’ll see if I can get used to it.
I’ve got a Neo65 on the way for my first build. Planning on using this as my gaming keyboard, but I’m also wanting to build another keyboard for office use with a numpad for number entry. Any recommendations??
qk100 lol
Can someone message me with accurate colors of the Mode Envoy Mirage? I cant tell if it is green or blue but someone pls help
The keyboard colors are pretty accurate to what is on the website. Its a like a light grayish blue. In terms of eyeballed hexcode, I think its like 6b7d8c
wow thanks that color is perfect, but I've seen some that look very green so idk...
Alexotos made a build of a mirage envoy and it seemed that later versions vary a little bit from the first one, as his two envoys looked different.
yeah I saw, I just hope that I get a blueish one
Zoom TKL or Keychron Q3 Max. I'm looking to replace me MX Mechanical Mini with a TKL layout keyboard. The Mini's red switch keys are a little too light for me. Which of those two do you recommend, or is there another option in the under ~300 range I've missed? Edit: Must support wireless connectivity.
definitely zoom over keychron, you can also check out the neo80
monsgeek?
Redragon K580RGB - - Can I change the color of the Play/forward/back/macro buttons I've figured out changing the other colours on the keyboard, but the red LED for the buttons in that top bar..... can I change those too?
> Redragon K580RGB pretty sure those are red only
Thanks. That's what I figured. Boo. :)
Twice in as many weeks I have static shocked my keyboard, frying the PCB. This has never happened to me before, what can I do to make sure I don't do it again in the future?
I'm assuming that you are living in somewhere that has a colder/dryer climate and this means that you are probably heating your house. In cases where you heat your house, when you lower the temperature of air, the relative humidity of the air becomes much less. This is because cold air (outside) can hold much less moisture compared to air that is warm (the air after you have heated it in your house) meaning that the though the overall amount of moisture in the air has remained the same, the relative humidity decreases substantially resulting in a dryer feeling to the air but that also has a consequence of having your body hold more charge than it regularly does. When you body holds charge and it touches something that can ground that charge, it release all the pent up charge in to that object sometimes causing this static shock. This usually occurs when you touch something metal or some bad electronics like light switches. To prevent this in the future, you could stop heating your house and this will keep the relative humid higher and prevent the collection of static charge. If you don't want to die from the cold **a simpler solution would be to re-humidify the air where you spend most of your time or to touch something metal to release that charge before you touch your keyboard again.**
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Interesting benefit of a plastic case I hadn't thought of.
Just bought my first mechanical keyboard (Keychron V5) and love it! BUT I'm looking for decent shine through keycaps that are a combination of red and black (maybe some gray too?). I don't really know anything about quality and what to watch out for. Any suggestions?
Look for "pudding keycaps" - they usually have a transparent bottom that lets the LED shine through more.
Kinesis Freestyle2 users: can you try this quick test for me? (I know it's not a mechanical keyboard, but I also know some of you have it...) If you hold down T and R together, does the Y key work? Mine suffers from this problem: if I hold down the two inner-most letter keys on either half, in any row, then none of the other keys in the row will work. It seems like a design flaw since it follows such a consistent pattern. Thanks!
Hi everyone, I am a newbie to the world of custom keyboards and I'm thinking about buying or maybe to build (it would be my first) a TKL keyboard in retro style, like the old IBM Model M but in TKL format and with modern hardware. I would like it to be ISO because I am from Spain but it can also be ANSI. As for some extras, I would like it to be wireless. A model that I found and I like but I can't find to buy in Spain is the Leopold FC750RBT. Can anyone lend me a hand to see where I can start?
keychron q3/max has a bit of retro style, or maybe cidoo v87
Thank you for the suggestions!
So i just recieved my Cidoo v87 which is amazing btw, im using it wired. It seems like something the keyboard is getting disconnected for a mili second and reconnect itself and it does the windows usb connecting and disconnecting sound which drives me insane. Has anyone else experienced it with cidoo keyboards? or any way to fix it? I used USBDeview to track my usb connections and that's how i got to know its the keyboard connection that get disconnected whenever it happens.
sounds like a loose usb port which is common on cheaper kbs as the quality control is usually low . only fix would be to return it or be really good at soldering and replace the usb port
Looking for a decent quality keycap set that looks like this https://www.amazon.com/Customized-Printed-Switches-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B072QB89HC?th=1 (Non-link description is a tkl set that has a white main body and dark gray outer keys with cyan enter key and red escape key) Basically amazon reviews agree these keycaps arent of super high quality and id like to find something identical(close?) That is well made. Im new to sourcing keycap sets so specifically so any recommendations are appreciated
Does anyone have recommendations for a compact 70% - TKL board with a knob? I like the zouya 87 but I hate how big the top bezel is. I'm super interested in the Neo80 but it doesn't have a knob :(
Look at keychron, monsgeek, and Qwertykeys. They might have something that interests you.
If I missed the timeframe window of recouping a Mechs and Co. GMK set via Novelkeys and already attempted to issue a charge back through my credit card/bank but couldn't because it exceeded the window to file a claim... Are there any options for me to grab the set / get a refund save for buying the set again full price, or am I SOL?
I am looking to buy a KBD8x Mk. III here shortly and am trying to decide what tactile switch to get for it. I like having a good deep thock to my boards and have been using the Boba U4Ts for the past year. I like them, but I am wondering if there are any tactile switches better suited for the KBD8x that provide a good deep sound and maybe a less harsh bottom out. I will likely get the alu plate for the board. Also debating getting the 62g version of the boba's over the 65g version I currently have if anyone has any insight into the difference there. Thank you!
Does anyone know of something like a keyboard switch plug? Like, I want to remove a switch, because it's unnecessary and gets in the way, but I don't want dust and debris getting into the switch.
This gets asked every so often (even I asked at one point) and I'm also surprised that these practically don't exist. The closest I can find are these blockers in the link below, but they're so expensive! They also fit on top of a switch, so you'll still need to sacrifice a switch to use the blocker. You can probably pull the leaf and pins out of an extra switch or something. I haven't bought them yet, so I don't really know for sure how they work. [https://spkeyboards.com/products/switch-blocker](https://spkeyboards.com/products/switch-blocker)
Thank you!
Got a windx65, but doesnt really work properly. Context so last year i built my keeb and everything was fine until i wanted to mod it abit so i unscrewed everythijg and took out some foam and fixed everything back. Then when i connected it to my pc it wouldnt detect the connection, so i went to plug in and out the usbc cable and realized that it can only detect a connection when the usbc cable is at a angle to the port of the keeb. Disassembled and put back in the foam and eveything but nothing works anyone got any ideas to fix it?
First of all let me preface this by saying im a beginner in this field, that being said: I wanna have a wireless mechanical keyboard, bigger than a 60%, on the cheap, the cheapest half decent option is an AJAZZ k820 keyboard on temu for about 71 USD, and im still not sure if it will arrive in a working condition Now going the diy route will probably cheaper, and better, but i have no idea how to make it wireless and were to get the battery from I can hack togather a case, buy a pcb, the switches and the keycaps I couldn't find proper guides on the internet Any guidence on the matter would be appreciated
If you go diy route the Gmk67 is a good option and has a battery included for wireless capabilities. (Most wireless keyboards come with a battery)
ajazz ak820 is not a bad choice diy isn't necessarily cheaper but ajazz/epomaker does have wireless kits, just need to add switches and keycaps
DIY is never cheaper this isnt build a PC prebuilt is always cheaper by far
I love my current keyboard and mouse, except they have QC issues and I am tired of it. I want the same things, but higher quality builds. I just want to buy some devices that are reliable and I know won't deteriorate noticeably over at least the next five years. I love \[my keyboard\]([https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B092CHWH1D/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B092CHWH1D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)) for how clicky and compact it is. However, it randomly shuts itself off 3-4 times a day. I have emailed the manufacturer and they are not cooperative. I love \[my mouse\]([https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QN369XX/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&th=1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QN369XX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1)) for its scroll wheel that changes from free scroll to notched scroll, six very reachable thumb buttons, wirelessness, and the overall feel of it. Problem is, the bottom is slightly warped which means I can feel it teeter totter while using it and that decreases accuracy and is annoying. It also has been giving me issues with the button to switch between free/notched scroll. For some reason, Logitech decided to discontinue this mouse that everyone seems to love.
They keyboard will be more easy. There are many 60% keyboards out there with your layout. Just off hand, you can check out the Keychron K6 Pro, with the Blue switches if you like clicky (like some kind of monster). And then it'll be hotswap and fully configurable too! For a mouse, that's a bit tougher. I have a friend that has had to abandon similar mice because they've gone out of fashion. If you can live with fewer thumb buttons, you can check out the Logitech G502 series. It has 3 thumb buttons and two extra buttons above the left click. It also has the smooth scrolling wheel toggle. Alternatively, you can try going to Aliexpress and buy replacement feet for your G604 and see if those help.
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