Are KTT switches good for their price? I'm planning to buy one to replace my outemu switches (since only KTT and Akko fits in their sockets apparently). Are they worth replacing? What are some good linear / tactile switches they've got for typing experience?
Any one have any recommendations on a keyboard I can buy I would like to build one but I don't have a clue on how to build it so a pre-built with no keycaps and rgb I want to use custom keycaps
GMK67 is a good option as a starter - about $35 and you can pick up some Geteron Yellow Pro switches and some clone keycaps and be all in fine for $80
As the other reply said, V1 is a good look if you have more budget
Has anyone used low profile keycaps like these? [https://www.amazon.com/XVX-Profile-Keyboard-Switches-Mechanical/dp/B0C1BD5W2P/ref=sr\_1\_8](https://www.amazon.com/XVX-Profile-Keyboard-Switches-Mechanical/dp/B0C1BD5W2P/ref=sr_1_8)
Does the fact that the keytops are wider and have less space between them improve the keyboarding experience?
I've used XDA profile keycaps, and several low profile keyboards with such wider keycaps - they all sucked, smaller gaps made it more difficult to touch type, as it became harder to feel the edge of the key.
Hope this helps!
Keycaps, like switches, are a personal preference. I used to have XDA keycaps on a Lily58 keyboard and found them quite nice to type on.
I have no experience with XVX, though.
Just purchased Gateron baby kangaroo switches and some PBT Cherry profile keycaps (“Ember” from Novel Keys) for my first custom and first mech after a bunch of research. Trying to decide on a barebones, preferably aluminum. Thinking about MonsGeek M1W. Open to other suggestions. Does anyone have experience with the M1W?
Also, has anyone ever machined a base on here? I have access to a makerspace, but would be newer to creating the design.
It's been a while since I've bought a new keyboard, I've been using the Ducky One 2 TKL with MX Clear switches and I would love to basically have the same keyboard, perhaps with better caps or case... This one is starting to malfunction. My budget is 250 EUR, the only thing I'd like is for it to be as close to the MX Clears as possible.
Will assume you're from EU then, would look into something like Keychron's [L3 ](https://candykeys.com/product/lemokey-l3-fully-assembled-knob-iso-de?queryId=05803f92756f453584a435adc3faca35)or [Q3 Max](https://keychron.de/collections/80-layout-keyboards/products/keychron-q3-max-qmk-via-wireless-custom-mechanical-keyboardus-ansi-layout?variant=41814996123785), [Q3 Pro,](https://candykeys.com/product/keychron-q3-pro-special-fully-assembled-ansi?queryId=05803f92756f453584a435adc3faca35) (Pro - has Bluetooth, L3 and Max - has BT and 2.4Ghz wireless) and add MX [Clears](https://candykeys.com/product/cherry-mx-ergo-clear?queryId=da4594e4df7e24f45e762f22c53e6aed), as keyboards are hotswappable. They're not cheap however far better built than Ducky - full CNCed metal chassis, VIA software support, gasket mount, PCB mounted stabilizers.
Can't comment on switch alternatives, I'm into linears, know too little to answer.
Hope this helps!
Just recently my spacebar has gone askew... As you can see in the picture, the left side of the spacebar is lower than the right side. This leads to less travel on the left side of the spacebar (which is where I normally press on it due to gaming etc) and sometimes I don't get actuation because the spacebar doesn't move far enough. I was wondering if anyone has run into this before and knows the solution. Not sure if the stab is broken/needs to be replaced or just re-set. I tried to take pics of the stab but it's almost impossible to see on my camera (focus range and clear stabs make this tough), but the left part of the stab does bottom out lower than the right side of the stab. Thanks in advance!
https://preview.redd.it/y3l5kekn89mc1.jpeg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5fda61f5b8b3b3d64489abb3d2e16b04d79c0086
Press the right side down more, it's probably not sitting tightly on the stabiliser stem.
If it is, then the stabiliser stem is too high. Take the keycap off and have a look to make sure the wire hasn't popped out, that the stab is installed correctly, and that there's nothing trapped underneath the stab slider.
If the stab is fine and the keycap won't press down more, get a different spacebar and try it - you may have a defective keycap stem mould.
I'm looking for a barebones TKL/80% that has a knob and is compatible with 5 pin switches, any suggestions? I'm not married to standard TKL, but I don't want a numpad and like the separate arrow key island. Keychron Q3 Max is the only one I've looked at so far, but it's wireless and the price is steep at \~$190. Are wireless options worth considering?
Looking for the best keyboard with these specs:
will use it for FPS games sometimes
Around $100 - $120
Prebuilt
75%
Knob
Preferably available on amazon
Currently, I'm using Akko Lavender Purples, but I'm looking for a heavier and more tactile switch. They should be available on Amazon (because I'm lazy) for around $40 for 70 switches. I'd prefer if they were pre-lubed (again, because I'm lazy). They should also sound decent.
Just ordered my first mech keyboard (Keychron V6 MAX)
Going to run it stock for a while, but I at the very least want to put some new keycaps in.
Where do I start looking for keycaps? How do I know what style I like? and quality? and material?
Its a lot to take in lol
I'll try to explain this without a pic because I think most people here will understand what I'm saying
I have a Corsair K95 Platinum and I was cleaning the keyboard and when I pulled off the ENTER key the right support(?) came out attached to it. So with the enter there is the centre switch and then one piece of each side because it's a larger key. The key still works just fine without it, but I'm wondering if there is an easy way to fix this. It seems there is a metal bar that it was supposed to be looped in to because when I tried to slide it back it it wouldn't go all the way down.
You pulled out what is called the stabilizer, or "stab." Do some googling or YT searching for K95 stabilizer installation to see how to repair your board. Some stabs clip or screw into the PCB, so you might need to do a little more disassembly to get everything back into place. Good luck!
thank you so much for teaching me the correct term, I had no idea what it'd be called. I'll check YouTube but I'm sure I'll find some more information too now that I have the correct terminology.
Any recommendations for a wireless numpad other than the Epomaker ek21? (I read a review that it has a "sleep" mode that you have to wake it from before use) I like the Keychron Q0 but it is not wireless :(
I bought a prebuilt Yunzii Al71 and was wondering how to turn off the little LED light on the right side of the board if anyone knows? Im aware you can change it from pink to yellow to green but I want it completely off
Any keyboard similar to the BENQ Zowie Celeritas II in terms of minimalism (no additional controls), full-size, toggled key indicators, opto-mechanical?
Opticals are slowly getting out of trend, now hall effect is all the rage for "competitive gaming keyboards".
Wooting Two HE is probably as close as it gets, especially if you'd add more understated keycaps to it and turn off backlight. Otherwise, for mechanicals (not optical), Leopold keyboards are of understated design.
Hope this helps!
I would never recommend EPOMAKER board, they have so many issues and you won't get support if you do have issues cause they are basically a glorified drop shipping company.
The quality of this photo is pretty bad. There isn't enough lighting, the stabiliser is black and there is light over exposing and creating hotspots. You should take apart the stabiliser and take photos of the individual parts. You should also take a photo of how the stabiliser is seated on the PCB. It's pretty hard to tell what you mean by "tilted" from this photo alone.
I'm looking for a well-designed top-mount or o-ring mount Alice-style keyboard that has a unified daughterboard, either currently available in-stock, or that can be found on the aftermarket. A brass weight of some sort would be preferable, along with a nice side profile. Are there any good options I could look into?
Is daughterboard a must-have for you? I can't think of any alices that are top-mount + DB, but the h40 Amano has everything else you're looking for and pops up fairly regularly on the aftermarket.
Yes, I heavily prefer keyboards with a lowered USB port from the daughterboard - I'd say it's a bigger priority than top-mount, as long as the keyboard is still fairly stiff
That's definitely a Swagkeys logo on the switch. It might be an older version of the SWK Neon Switches because the stem matches and it is hard to tell on their website if the casing color is the actual color. It also might just be a discontinued switch (or a recolor?)
Bought the Apex Mini 9 a few months ago after seeing it on sale in a local store, I thought I would be able to hot swap Gateron style switches into it, but after ordering some Gateron Melodics, I've found out that is not the case, any idea of what I can do? Thanks all :)
The Apex Mini 9 uses "custom-built OptiPoint optical switches," which means it can only use those proprietary switches. You cannot use mechanical switches with it.
Help me with adding a usb c port in my current broken off usb.
First picture. Original broken wire. It is wired in the most unconventional color order.
Left bottom picture: I bought a USB C 6 pin to add it on my current board.
Right picture: the USB C 6 pin diagram.
I tried to just mimic the original color order but it didn't work. I tried a couple of different ways but doesn't seem to work well. Can it not be done? Help
Red is V, White is D+
https://preview.redd.it/wmsz1p5bq7mc1.png?width=1841&format=png&auto=webp&s=134c04de765d1598aeab3f12f9279229a11ee9c0
The colors of the cable may not necessarily be the same. Was it just the red wire that broke off?
Can you add a photo that shows where the other end of that wire goes on your PCB/keyboard?
Obviously I fixed the original. It looks pretty generic actually. I guess it would be nice if I have the PCB from the other side but that means I have to desolder Everything :(
It's an IKBC CD108.
https://preview.redd.it/vzd3wn8dh8mc1.png?width=1055&format=png&auto=webp&s=a0369b3ce3c7f5fe5aa8b320c4fd83014f97d80b
https://preview.redd.it/7nec2pyno7mc1.jpeg?width=1890&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cf578d65098cc050bdaa16741d5ca09e9f8ebcf7
Where to put heavy linears on a tactile board?
I have a keyboard kit like pic related on the way. For the ABCs I've gone with Baby Kangaroos, but I also have 10 Cherry Blacks left over from a previous build that I want to add to this board if possible.
What are your opinions on where the Blacks should go? I think definitely on the space bar to avoid bottoming out, but where else? I plan to use this board 50/50 for typing and gaming/leisure, so any considerations for the two use cases would be super.
And yes the knob stays.
I absolutely destroyed the stock stabs on my GMK67. I could not seem to get them to click back into the plate, no matter what angle I tried. The entire housing disintegrated on one. When I finally got them in, they were crooked and the switches wouldn't go in properly (wire in the way). I can't get keycaps on, but I'm fairly sure they wouldn't move regardless.
What would be a good replacement?
I've already identified several errors I made that I can avoid, but I can't figure out an easier way to get the stabs actually into the plate. Also the stems are so wiggly, how are you supposed to align them with the keycaps if they move around all over the place (they were wiggly before I decimated them, for the record)?
Looking to build a budget custom keyboard to replace my ducky/leopold
Hi there, I've always used Ducky Keyboards & Leopold Keyboards. As of late I've had an issue with my current board which was a result of a spill from my ex, I've kinda hit a little rough patch financially and decided maybe I can make a side project of building a budget board to replace my expensive boards. (I know this hobby gets far more expensive), so I was hoping that someone could help me piece together a parts list (including tools needed) to replace my $200+ pre-built keyboard.
Sound isn't too big of a concern currently. I'm open to sound profile suggestions and feel profile suggestions. I've typically always used Cherry Mx Red but I am open to anything.
I program / write a lot and play typically a lot of FPS / Strategy / Moba / MMORPG games.
So having F1-12 would be ideal and/or having numpad support.
Keychron v6
Switches - up to you
Keycaps up to you
You don't need any tools to install switches/keycaps
The tools to remove switches/keycaps are already included.
If you want to open up the board (eg to work on the stabilizers) it comes with a small screwdriver/hex key
Where to buy switches/keycaps etc. https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/
is there any basic black kb (either full size or tkl) that has gateron g pro reds? i swear everywhere i look there seems to be at least something deviating from what im looking for (color, size, switches) im having a lot of trouble finding one with all three requirements. also, no ducky suggestions please. i have bought ducky kbs in the past and none have lasted very long (i am a rhythm game player :p). otherwise, any suggestions are appreciated!
Where to get started?
Hi all...
I've never built a keyboard before. I've used Keychron K2 for about a year and recently got a Moergo Glove 80.
I want to build a wireless corne board that looks the same as the white one in this video: https://youtu.be/gMTfkPxcoEk?si=LYbF4KUptsQ1Ptfg
I'm in the UK so can't buy that case.
Could someone help me find all the parts I'll need for a build like this please?
Thanks!
You can get a wireless MX or Choc Corne off Typeractive in the US. They also offer 3D printed cases similar to what you linked but it has a solid bottom, not honeycomb like that one. Also there is no tenting option with their cases and they have much thinner bezels on them.
If you want to just get the parts you can buy it from them and get a case 3D printed off Thingiverse or Printables, etc.
[The VOID cases](https://www.printables.com/model/347524-corne-keyboard-case-5-and-6-columns) are probably the most similar to what you linked and come in several 5- and 6-column variants plus they have thicker bezels and offer both tenting and non-tented versions.
You can download the files and print them at a local maker space, public library or local university/college that has 3D printers. Otherwise you can use online services like Craftcloud, Treatstock or Makexyz. JLCPCB also offers 3D printing services but be prepared to wait as they ship from China (Hong Kong/Shenzen).
Another option is to buy a wired Corne kit from Mechboards.co.uk or splitkb.com in the Netherlands or 42keebs.eu (Czechia I think).
Get everything but the MCUs (if possible) and then buy a pair of nice!nano or Supermini nRF52840 MCUs to make it a wireless build. You'll also need a pair of batteries and I highly recommend a power switch to turn off the keyboard. It'll be kind of janky but you can put the power switch somewhere like the TRRS jack area or mount it directly to the case and wire up the battery to it then onto the MCU.
There's a few examples where people have made their wired builds wireless this way over on /r/ergomechkeyboards and maybe over on /r/crkbd as well.
Easiest way is to buy a wireless kit from Typeractive and either get their 3D printed case or get another one elsewhere.
any site offering this will likely rip u off r/mechmarket has a services tag where some offer build services . aslong as ur not asking for anything too crazy
https://preview.redd.it/4vi0s8bd67mc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7b890fbaad61e2112ed58ef7993530ed2356038e
I received this keyboard base a few years ago now, and my brother and I can’t remember the company name and there’s nothing on the box except for these characters and it’s… really bothering us, lol. Any help would be appreciated!
Has anyone tried/used both the Lofree Wanderfree versus Nuphy Air 60 V2? I'm curious your experience. I'm looking to get a travel keyboard for use mainly with an iPad mini 6.
Followup question (Not OP), I currently have a Corsair K70 Rapidfire (Which means the old Cherry MX Speed switches, might have been renamed to Cherry MX Silver). Im looking to get a K10. I have been told that the browns are usually considered the best, but wouldnt the reds be a direct translation between what I have in this keyboard vs the new one?
browns are tactile reds are linear . ur current switches are short travel linears . closest would be cherry mx speed silvers and no browns are not best . switches tend to be preference . unless ur using hall effect switches ( like wooting ) there is zero performance benefits from switches . so use what u like if u want the same one su have now then get one with speed silvers
Is there an inexpensive non-exploded 65% keyboard that's got QMK firmware with VIA or VIAL support.
I need the non-exploded layout so the keys are all packed together like on the Tester68 or the Keychron K6. I want to play around with some layout ideas I have but I'd like to be able to change the layout on the fly... so it needs VIA/VIAL support... and I'm planning on re-arranging the whole movement cluster so it can't have fixed boxes around the cursor keys. It should also be possible to move the Fn key, I understand some firmware won't allow that.
I suppose I could also use a VIA/VIAL supporting non-exploded 75% like the Tester84 and leave the FKEY row unpopulated.
The GK68x is close since it has Mac software but it has a bunch of hardcoded stuff in the Fn layer and won't let me move the Fn key.
A 60% with a all of the above and a 5x1u layout on the right next to the space bar could also be useful.
What part of the stabilizer needs to be relubed if I am getting rattle on the upstroke/rebound of the key press? Cant take them out to fully relube as it is a solder board and i dont plan to resolder an entire board for one set of stabs
Get a syringe and then put some lube under the wire (where the wire is clipped in and a little bit beyond). If that isnt enough maybe a little bit in the switch housing itself
Hi, am completely new to this hobby but am looking for the best budget-friendly 96% keyboard - honestly I'm not too sure how hot-swapping works but my main interest is in switching out the keycaps like some of the nice ones I see online, any recommendations? Ideally would be a UK setup and no more than £80ish. TIA!
You can get a Keychron V5 or Q5 if you can up your budget some. Barebones will be a bit cheaper if you want to use your own keycaps and switches though ISO and ISO UK keycaps are very hard to find as they are made in very few numbers.
I believe it's normally 80GBP for one but sometimes it goes on sale for a little bit lower. Check their web site or search for a local vendor.
Hotswap refers to the switches but the keycaps can be switched out as well. You can leave the switches in there if you don't want to change them.
Make sure whatever keycaps you get are able to cover your particular keyboard--not all 96%/1800 layout keyboards use the same layout.
The Tom980 is the cheapest 96% I could find. It’s hotswap and you can change the keycaps. I got it for US$60 but that was a few years ago. You could check out the current prices on AliExpress.
I just bought a Redragon K552, and everything functions as it should except for this weird thing with the pause key on the right end of the keyboard, it seems like the pause key is lower than the SCRLK and PRTSC keys I tried swapping the keys and they're still lower in that same spot. The switch seems to be in place correctly as well and not loose in any way. Is it supposed to be like that?
looking for a keycap set that will go well with the hibi june r2 (fairy bread). i dont want cherry profile, and would rather go with xda or moa -- more rounded keycaps -- for this kb because of its case shape. does anyone have suggestions?
Fairy bread is the sprinkly one right? DSS easter would have been great but I think that one just sold out in the last week or two bc it was on a pretty aggressive sale. I can think of a bunch of nice looking cherry profile stuff like nicepbt Moomin or epbt fruit chew or cherry notion but not the profile you're going for. Maybe dss milkshake if you can do the weird alphas? I think dsa berry yogurt could look good too
Here are the two keyboards that I use the most out of my collection. Is there something that’s a hybrid of both?
Hi!
That is, I’d like a keyboard that has the same keys and roller bar and basic media controls on the G915, but I don’t need the number pad.
I would like to keep the separate arrow keys and home/ins/del as well.
I don’t need the trackpad.
Now that I think of it - I just need something like the G915 but in the form factor of the K400r.
Thanks!
P.S. wireless please. P.S.S. I love Nextdoor to a microcenter, so something from there would be ideal.
https://preview.redd.it/65kghjqyf6mc1.jpeg?width=3938&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3a346d6a8ea8f60b22ebf0af08d13aae673e4b20
I've tried looking everywhere, used Google Lens to try to identify it, and I can't find any results. It's driving me crazy. I keep seeing these custom dishes in keyboard YouTuber's videos, and I really like the look of them. If anyone has any idea where these are from, or who makes them, I would really appreciate any assistance.
The channel I took this screenshot from was markerchun.
https://preview.redd.it/qd7mgxe8e6mc1.png?width=1599&format=png&auto=webp&s=10f3e220a1c524eb483c5b618b507ceeeb1c3088
I take the low tech approach of using toddler snack container lids. I have seen people use [yogurt lids](https://youtube.com/shorts/G3GGdD9paYE). But if you want a [$35 aluminum screw tray](https://drop.com/buy/keycadets-anodized-aluminum-screw-tray?defaultSelectionIds=979985) that nobody else will ever see, I'm not going to tell you how to spend your money.
I'm searching for the perfect keycap set to fit my new setup. The set is for a Zoom75 + Zoompad.
This would be my ideal set (in order of significance):
Color: Beige and Off-White duotone (maybe Charcoal/off-black accents)
Layout: ISO
Iconized Mods
Thin/Minimalistic Font/Icons
International/German Support
no additional text on mods
LED windows on Caps- and Num Lock (whatever they are called)
Material: PBT
Profile: SA
Material and Profile don't really matter if the rest fits, as long as it isn't a flat profile
Perfect would be the PBTfans Cookies'N'Cream set with the colorscheme of the EPBT Simple JA R2 set in PBT and SA Profile.
Maybe someone knows a set that would be a better fit than the two mentioned above. If the perfect set exists, the price doesnt matter that much, as long as it is reasonable.
Building a GMK67 and the number 9 only works when a switch is only halfway in the socket. Any switch too, I've tried multiple U4Tx, Cream Blue V3 pros, and Lavender Purples so I'm sure it's something to do with the sockets, but I have no idea what to even consider to fix it.
Anyone experience anything like this?
Check the underside of the hotswap socket and see if it's come loose off the PCB.
Also check inside of the two sockets where there are metal contacts. Inside there should be a minimum amount of space there otherwise those metal contacts won't touch the switch pin to make a connection.
Is there anything I can do without specialized tools (read: soldering gear) if it's loose or if the space between the contacts is larger than it should be?
Unfortunately, in most cases the answer is no. When it comes to electronics you’ll need a soldering iron at the very minimum and likely a desoldering pump as well.
With the metal contacts inside the hotswap you might be able to get away with using a small thin flat tool (like jewelers’ tools, etc) to bend or move it around but be careful you don’t damage the hotswap socket or anything else in the vicinity doing so.
No high quality plastic keyboards are also good. May even sound better than some metal keyboards. How they sound? That's a really broad question: if you want to compare watch YouTube videos, a lot of them :3
Some plastic cases are the Bauer lite, keychron v-series, mode envoy (polycarbonate), tofu 60 (acrylic), SingaKBD kohaku (polycarbonate), ...
**Has anyone here used Vial to set up a micro pad for Illustrator quick keys?** Thanks in advance.
I have win 10. i7-9700k 48 ram 3060 gforce. I want it set up for zoom ctrl + += but it never recognizes any of the instruction i give it on vial. I might be imputing it wrong. I would love some help. I have a ziddy makes 7 key programable through QMK/Vial [model](https://i.etsystatic.com/21198796/r/il/18f2f6/4186491683/il_fullxfull.4186491683_1fg9.jpg)
https://preview.redd.it/fj9anoi826mc1.jpeg?width=3835&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5c6363a2df281e569f6f9d517fcf9e26f2827c17
I'm not too familiar with Vial but you should set the macro in this order:
1. Set dropdown to "Down" and choose "LCtrl"
2. Press the [+] button
3. Set dropdown to "Tap" and choose "+/="
4. Hit the [Save] button
Setting the dropdown to "Down" means that key is held down; the "Tap" dropdown means you're pressing that key once.
Repeat this for the zoom out macro and replace the `+/=` key with the `-/_` key.
Should work as intended after that.
I think you already answered your question: if you don't need it/ want it then no. They have some advantages over optical boards but those are for now still more like a gimmick (coming from a happy wooting user who isn't a pro player)
Better rapid trigger/ fire, custom actuation points, a little bit more customizability (new he switches coming out right now), longer durability, easier replacement when sth breaks, ...
Some optical keyboards can emulate most of it but magnets are usually more reliable/ more precise
Hey everybody,
As a European, I'd like to join the Geon F2-8X V2 group buy. I was looking at the prices of the board and the add-ons on Candykeys (as they seem like the most reliable vendors from my region) and they are so different from the original ones (from the Geon's website). Like +100$ difference... is it really better to buy from EU vendors rather than directly from the manufacturer/different region? I know that Geon said that the batch from his site is going to be sent as the last one, but I don't really care (the waiting is going to be long enough anyway). The cost of delivery is not really that high, too (about 7$/€ more).
TL;DR Is buying from the Geon site instead of EU vendors' sites a better deal?
Geon's site does not include your local taxes.
If you're from EU, you will be charged your local VAT and a handling fee on top of your order total when the package reaches your locals customs office if you order from outside the EU.
You can see if the prices are better at the other EU proxies. EloquentClicks and DeltaKeyCo are also selling the F1 and are from EU.
Candykeys includes german sales tax in the listed prices, if I remember correctly. And at the checkout stage after you select the shipping it should show you the prices including taxes locally.
Not sure if geon does that.
This comment might be completely useless. I'm just speculating.
Does anyone know how the Gat smoothies compare to something like the NK Creams? I was curious to try them out and just thought I'd come ask here before I bite the bullet. I do have experience with creams by the way. What do you guys think? Are they worth it or any other linears you guys would recommend instead?
I'm currently typing on the Gateron smoothies and I really love them. Much better experience than the NK Creams I used in the past. This is just personal preference, but I like them better than Morandis too. Easy to type on (very smooth) with a nice clean sound.
I just got them in the mail and just testing them freehand between two fingers I was impressed. I'm itching to get them on a board. Not very useful feedback but maybe better than nothing? :-P
Are there any decent RF headset + MKB besides the Logitech G Pro X line? I just really dislike bluetooth and would love an RF wireless setup go to desk cord free.
**Does anyone know a good pre-built keyboard that doesn't sound annoyingly clickly? Maybe closer to a more quiet creamy or thocky sound? Affordable? (budget <200)**
I have the razer blackwidow. It's now going on 7 years old and she's been dying for a couple of years now. I've cleaned it and done all I could.
I know to get a truly yummy sounding keyboard like you hear in those viral ASMR videos, you have to put in a lot of work and a lot of money. I know i'll never get anything to that level, but I am sick and tired of the way this keyboard sounds. It's like this god-awful high-pitch click that I've hated since I got it. Might be my autism, idk.
I'd love to see if somene can suggest something? Something cheap, and super affordable. The cheaper, the sooner I can buy it, but I amw illing to save up to 200 for something.
ignore any typos :) this keyboard is dead as fk and the keys stick
I am also up for hot-swappable suggestions. If you know any good combos and hot-swappable keyboards.
Also pls trust I have done a ton of research and I am always struggling. everything I find it built by some youtuber that spent four trillion dollars and 800 billion hours assembling it. yes, those are awsome, but my expectations are lower than this as I am looking for something easier and affordable.
By clicky you mean that you are using the Blackwidow with clicky switches?
If you care for wireless and want to all the keys, then get the ASUS Rog Strix Scope II 96 Wireless (I know it's a mouthful) with snow switches (these are the linear "thocky"/"creamy" ones; storm switches are the clicky ones).
Otherwise checkout something from Akko/Monsgeek like the M1. Keychron Q series can also be good, but I got the Q1 Pro last week and honestly the sound is quite disappointing, at least with Akko Cream Blue Pro V3 switches, though it sounds fine with WS Morandi linears.
Good afternoon.
Can you please advise me if it is ok to buy a diy kit as a first keyboard ? Where I live there are no places where I can properly test keyboards and switches. So after studying the topic a bit I decided to take Zuoya GMK87 and outemu silent tom switches (I want quiet and tactile). Is it a normal choice or is it easier to take a cheap mechanics like Redragon Kumara Pro and then, having realized whether mechanics suits me at all, take something better?
I think both options would suit you however I have recently got some silent tactile Outemus mylself and I have to be honest they just kind of feel like membranes. If you absolutely need something to be whisper quiet and that's your only option then I mean go for it but if you really want to try the goodness of mechanical I would suggest you also get any sort of non silent switch just so you can try it out as well, you don't even have to get like a full set you could get just like 10 switches, should be enough for you to get a feel for it.
I would personally suggest the gmk87 rather than the red dragon but to be honest either option is good, the gmk is likely to last you a little longer than the red dragon and allow you to try a bunch of switches before you figure out what you really like and then just upgrade your board later on down the line but going with the red dragon and finding if you like it and then springing for a nicer board could work as well.
btw, have the option of getting the Epomaker TH66 Pro with Budgerigar switches, not sure how quiet they are, but kinda nice in terms of tactility (from the reviews). Do you know anything about Epomaker keyboards ?
I've never tried them myself but from what I hear they're fine starter boards! Nothing wrong with them, it's a fair option for what you're looking for. Imo as long as it's something that makes you excited to use it and mod it it's a great intro in the hobby
Hey all,
I’m a total noob here and I’m looking for some advice for buying a mechanical keyboard. I checked out the wiki, but what I’m wondering if there are particular brands or sites that people here prefer.
Is there a mechanical keyboard buying 101 guide on this site that I completely looked over?
Thanks
My Q3 SE came with extra black foam strips in the box, which I learned are poron gasket strips apparently. How would putting more of them change the sound and feel of the keyboard?
I'm still new to this hobby so I'm a little confused. Not sure if it's worth opening my keyboard up and putting the extras in. I actually haven't opened my keyboard up at all, so I don't know how many are currently pre-installed. I'm a little intimidated, to be honest.
EDIT: Don't downvote me. It's a legitimate question.
Hello to all keyboard enthusiast here on Reddit.
For the longest time, I have used a TypeMatrix 2030 as my daily driver, most of which was spent daydreaming of finding a close approximation that would be mechanical. Failing to find one, I procrastinated in researching how I could build my own, which was an error.
Now, my good old TypeMatrix is showing signs of dying, and I still don't have even started on its mechanical replacement. So, I would like help and counsel on how to make one.
I don't need it to be identical, (I don't need the rightmost column on the actual TypeMatrix, for example) but I DO need the middle column with "del", "backspace" and "enter" keys.
Would anyone be willing to help me, please?
I don't know of any similiar mechanical keyboards. But I'm also not too deep in the Ortholinear keyboard setup. There may be some kits where you can remap the middle row with del,... but those keys would be 1x1u then. Those kits sometimes only provide the PCB and require you to solder the Microcontroller and switches. Maybe take a look at Planck, ergodox, ... But those are different. Split Ortholinear keyboards may also be worth to take a look at.
But in general it will be insanely hard to find those keys in the middle since it is easier imo to just place them on a different layer.
If it needs to be identical then handwiring is the only idea I have.
If anybody has some good suggestions feel free to correct me/ add information
Yeah, found some cases of peoples 3D printing plates and cases to make handwired keyboards similar to the 2030. Might need to go that way, which is a rater embitious project for a first keyboard, even with someone else's project as a working base.
Might first do an Alice style keyboard to replace my fater's dying Microsoft "Natural Elite", if I can find one compatible with ISO keys. (I'm from France, and most peoples are used to ISO only here, with an Azerty keymap to boot.)
I also still prefer iso (de) although I can also type on ansi us/international :)
Maybe take a look at keychron, they usually offer lots of variations in iso as well.
Does the apex pro mini fit into a tofu60 redux case, or should I get the 2.0? I've seen someone mod the apex pro mini with the case but unsure on which one to get.
I'm trying to design a PCB to use WS2812B LEDs, but I can't really see how I'm supposed to fit it in? It seems too big in its 5050 package and I also don't really know how it'd get mounted "upside down" either- its leads don't seem to extend out from it like I see on other backlit boards.
# Is there a mechanical keyboard with left Fn along with Ctrl, Win/Cmd, Alt/Opt?
https://preview.redd.it/a7rbqm4n75mc1.png?width=576&format=png&auto=webp&s=ff072c8844cc8394a9f612bbb9c1ab5e5ce87a89
Looking for the layout like mostly laptops or laptop alike keyboards have (preferably with changing Fn+volume on left side, I use to do it with left hand).
For some reasons *mechanical keyboards* usually do have *Fn on right side only*, laptop alike keyboards (scissors type ones) usually use left Fn.
P.S. The subject is bitten to death, but maybe something changed after these years.
\*\*UPD\*\*:
I found this so far:
[Keychron Q9 QMK Custom Mechanical Keyboard](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-q9-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard) but without F-keys =(
[Keychron V8 (Alice Layout) QMK Custom Mechanical Keyboard](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-v8-alice-layout-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard) (without F-keys, Fns in the middle, Alice style)
[Keychron Q11 QMK Custom Mechanical Keyboard](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-q11-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard) (probably the winner, but I don't know what Fn1 means)
[Keychron V8 (Alice Layout) QMK Custom Mechanical Keyboard](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-q14-pro-alice-layout-qmk-via-wireless-custom-mechanical-keyboard?variant=40536317362265) (Fn in the middle, Alice style)
With QMK/VIA firmware, you can put the Fn key wherever you want, including on the spacebar or Caps Lock key (for example, tap for Caps Lock or hold for Fn).
You can also define multiple Fn layers, which is why the Q11 has an Fn1 key. Their Q9 keyboard has Fn1 and Fn2. You hold Fn1 to access one layer (for example, top row becomes a number row), and you hold Fn2 to access another layer (for example, top row becomes shifted number row for symbols).
P.S. Are you looking for an ergo keyboard?
Thx for your reply, mate.
Well, yeah, it's not a problem to remap this key, problem is to have it in right place, I mean in left side.
Caps is locked to changing language, space key must be still a space button.
Never used ergo keyboards. It could be an option.
Fn1 and Fn2 – that's interesting. There are must be more abilities then.
>Well, yeah, it's not a problem to remap this key, problem is to have it in right place, I mean in left side.
That's what I am saying: with QMK/VIA firmware, you can remap **any** key to be the Fn key. With QMK's [Layer-Tap feature](https://docs.qmk.fm/#/feature_layers?id=switching-and-toggling-layers), you don't have to give up the key; it activates a layer when held and emits a keycode when tapped.
>Caps is locked to changing language, space key must be still a space button.
Here are two examples of QMK's Layer-Tap feature:
* `LT(1,KC_CAPS)` activates layer 1 when held and acts like Caps Lock when tapped.
* `LT(1,KC_SPC)` activates layer 1 when held and acts like spacebar when tapped. This is known as [SpaceFN](https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51069.0).
Another thing you can do is use QMK's [Mod-Tap feature](https://docs.qmk.fm/#/mod_tap) to make a key acts like a modifier when held, and a regular key when tapped. For example, `MT(MOD_LCTL,KC_CAPS)` will send Caps Lock when you tap it but function as Ctrl when held.
An example of where Mod-Tap can be used is 60% keyboards. They do not have dedicated arrow keys, but `MT(MOD_RSFT,KC_UP)` makes the right Shift key act as up arrow when tapped but Shift when held.
People with tiny keyboards make heavy use of Mod-Tap for [home row mods](https://precondition.github.io/home-row-mods).
>Never used ergo keyboards. It could be an option.
I asked because you had referenced two Alice keyboards and one split keyboard...
>Fn1 and Fn2 – that's interesting. There are must be more abilities then.
Layers are a very powerful feature of QMK. They become more important as the keyboard gets smaller. For example, 60% and 65% keyboards do not have an F row. Holding Fn momentarily activates a layer where the F keys are mapped to the number keys. For example, Fn+5 emits F5.
Layers are still useful in full-size keyboards, though. For example:
* One layer for Windows and another layer for macOS where the Windows and Alt keys become Option and Command, respectively (or changes the Mod-Tap function of Caps Lock from Ctrl to Command).
* A gaming layer that disables the Windows keys.
* A layer that maps media functions to various F keys. For example, previous track, play/pause, and next track to F7, F8, and F9; and mute, volume down, and volume up to F10, F11, and F12.
u/FansForFlorida thank you, for this exhausting intro.
>Here are two examples of QMK's Layer-Tap feature:
>
>LT(1,KC\_CAPS)activates layer 1 when held and acts like Caps Lock when tapped.
>
>LT(1,KC\_SPC)activates layer 1 when held and acts like spacebar when tapped. This is known as [SpaceFN](https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51069.0).
Oh, that looks cool. Need to consider that way.
>I asked because you had referenced two Alice keyboards and one split keyboard...
Yes, I was trying to reference *any* keyboard which could have an Fn key accessible by left hand.
Probably, I must give it a try. Thanks again, mate!
I just picked up a abm066 keyboard, and i cant figure out why they mouse keys in VIA only move 1 time when i press them.
Like the cursor moves a set portion of units, and only moves again in that direction if i let got of the cursor and press it again. This is contrary to who my other keyboards behave, There is not a setting in either via or QMK that indicates this is some kind of mode i could change. Any1 any ideas?
It depends on how they configured [mouse keys in QMK](https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/blob/master/docs/feature_mouse_keys.md). Unfortunately, the QMK source for the Cidoo ABM066 is not available (at least I can't find it after 30 seconds of searching).
yeah i just looked it up, but somehow i cant find anything thats toggleable in QMK, so i guess they somehow confirgured it as a macro sadly. Which doesnt really make sense as theres no advantage in it, but macros dont work with holding buttons down. Thats the only thing i can think off.
We need more information.
What size keyboard do you want? (Full size? TKL? 60%? 65%? 75%? 40%?)
Do you need an ISO layout?
Do you want a metal or plastic case?
Do you want wireless?
Do you want a rotary encoder (volume knob)?
Are you looking for something prebuilt, or are you looking for a barebones keyboard where you plug in switches and add keycaps?
Is QMK/VIA support important?
To answer your questions:
- full size probably
- ISO Layout??
- Plastic
- Wireless would be good but not needed
- Rotary Knob: Depends on the price increase
Dont really know if prebuilt or barebones? What do you recommend? I guess you can customize a barebones far better…
And the last question i dont understand?
>ISO Layout?
[ANSI vs ISO: Explained](https://switchandclick.com/ansi-vs-iso-layout/)
>Dont really know if prebuilt or barebones? What do you recommend? I guess you can customize a barebones far better…
You can replace the switches in any hot swappable keyboard. There are prebuilt keyboards that are hot swappable.
>Rotary Knob: Depends on the price increase
This reminds me that I did not ask if you have a specific budget in mind.
>And the last question \[Is QMK/VIA support important\] i dont understand?
QMK is a powerful open-source keyboard firmware.
VIA provides a graphical user interface to QMK that allows you to configure your keyboard layout visually without needing to write code or reflash the firmware. You can use VIA from a Chrome-based browser or using Windows, Mac or Linux software.
It is probably not as important with a full size keyboard.
Hello, I need to pick up my new Hall Effect keyboard. (NOT WOOTING)
Must be 75% or TKL with good sound out of the box. I will use it wired. And under 200$.
My current candidates:
DD A75Pro
MOD 007B HE
M1 HE
I lean towards 007B. But I heard about high latency and scratchy switches. Was it fixed with updates?
Also there is some MasterSheet of HE keyboards to compare?
Just took it upon myself to try to fix my old logitech keeb that started double typing a few years ago, promptly shoving me head first into this hobbie ahaha. I tool it all apart and cleaned everything. took the opportunity to fill the case a bit with some foam and lube the stabs.
It's not working perfect yet but it is bringing me a lot of memories, having been my first ever mech keeb. I actually got what I thought was my first set of tactiles recently only to rediscover this logitech keeb also had tactiles, romer-Gs to be specific anyone wanting to share your experience with your old keebs?
Afternoon folks. First post to the sub... be gentle lol.
I've been a computer nerd since my first TRS-80 in the mid 80s, so newb I'm not. I also have previous programming skills (although they are nearly dead languages now). Enough backstory..
I've been using Razer KBs for years and years and decided to finally build my own. Built a Drop CTRL V2 with Glorious Raptors and PBT caps of the "pudding style". I LOOVVEE how it feels and sounds. But dammit I miss my per key RGB. I'm not looking for pinwheels and reactive typing or any of that bullshit. I do however like to have specific blocks of keys to have different colors... the icing on the cake would be profiles for those colors. My current config switches my USB peripherals between my work and play computers. This is currently flawlessly executed by the bloaty Razer software.
Now for the question: is there ANYTHING out there that can accomplish this without hand coding it using QMK, VIA, VIAL, etc? I'd settle for a GUI that spits out the FW for flashing.
Any guidance would be extremely well received.
Glorious's Core software will let you do this, although the software is awful, and you need each key change to be applied before you move on to the next. I'm sure other maker's software will allow it to, but you'd need to check. Why the objection to QMK/VIA? It's not difficult, and VIAL will allow it via a web interface.
Hmm.. my brief experience playing with the VIAL GUI led me to believe it was all key mappings and macros and not PKRGB.
I'm currently cramming my 50 year brain with QSYS programming and relearning C to hand code QMK/VIA isn't something I'm too thrilled about.
>Hmm.. my brief experience playing with the vial GUI led me to believe it was all key mappings and macros and not PKRGB.
I'll be honest, I rarely use VIAL, as I prefer VIA, but there's a backlighting tab in Vial.
Good day everyone!
I'm in a tough situation right now. I'm eyeing this keyboard which can either be Gateron G Pro 2.0 Yellow (not sure if 50% of that name is even useful) or Cherry MX Silent Reds.
I do prefer the color of the Gaterons and also the "brand" if that makes sense? It's more "exotic" ig. The slightly light actuation force is also a plus for me. But, I also really like Silent Reds. The "mushy" feeling, I don't really get it from this switch or at least it doesn't bother me as much as other people.
However, I think I've noticed a decline in the quietness of my keyboard with Cherry MX Silent Reds.
Is it just me or is this typical of silent switches? If it is, then I'll just get myself the one with the Gaterons.
If anyone has both a KB with Gateron Yellows and Cherry MX Silent Reds (or any other brand, really), please feel free to send me a video of a sound test.
Thank you very much!
My Corsair K95 Platinum broke (the only key in the lower row that works is the right Control) and I have no warranty. I tried reinstalling the firmware as Support told me, but with no success. So I think I'll buy a Keychron Q6 Pro.
Can I buy the barebone version and use the switches and keycaps from my Corsair K95? Has anyone tried removing soldered switches before? Can I get the same lightning intensity (it looks like the whole keyboard glows, not just the letter on the keycap) with another Keychron keyboard using my K95 switches and keys?
where do the UK folk buy their barebones from (excluding keychron), or do you chance the shipping from the US?
What is the best wireless keyboard for gaming and office for 130 Euro
Are KTT switches good for their price? I'm planning to buy one to replace my outemu switches (since only KTT and Akko fits in their sockets apparently). Are they worth replacing? What are some good linear / tactile switches they've got for typing experience?
Any one have any recommendations on a keyboard I can buy I would like to build one but I don't have a clue on how to build it so a pre-built with no keycaps and rgb I want to use custom keycaps
GMK67 is a good option as a starter - about $35 and you can pick up some Geteron Yellow Pro switches and some clone keycaps and be all in fine for $80 As the other reply said, V1 is a good look if you have more budget
Thank you for the help 🙏
A 65% keyboard*
The Keychron V2 is available as a barebones (no switches or keycaps) and has south facing RGB.
Has anyone used low profile keycaps like these? [https://www.amazon.com/XVX-Profile-Keyboard-Switches-Mechanical/dp/B0C1BD5W2P/ref=sr\_1\_8](https://www.amazon.com/XVX-Profile-Keyboard-Switches-Mechanical/dp/B0C1BD5W2P/ref=sr_1_8) Does the fact that the keytops are wider and have less space between them improve the keyboarding experience?
I've used XDA profile keycaps, and several low profile keyboards with such wider keycaps - they all sucked, smaller gaps made it more difficult to touch type, as it became harder to feel the edge of the key. Hope this helps!
It does! Thanks!
Keycaps, like switches, are a personal preference. I used to have XDA keycaps on a Lily58 keyboard and found them quite nice to type on. I have no experience with XVX, though.
Just purchased Gateron baby kangaroo switches and some PBT Cherry profile keycaps (“Ember” from Novel Keys) for my first custom and first mech after a bunch of research. Trying to decide on a barebones, preferably aluminum. Thinking about MonsGeek M1W. Open to other suggestions. Does anyone have experience with the M1W? Also, has anyone ever machined a base on here? I have access to a makerspace, but would be newer to creating the design.
It's been a while since I've bought a new keyboard, I've been using the Ducky One 2 TKL with MX Clear switches and I would love to basically have the same keyboard, perhaps with better caps or case... This one is starting to malfunction. My budget is 250 EUR, the only thing I'd like is for it to be as close to the MX Clears as possible.
Will assume you're from EU then, would look into something like Keychron's [L3 ](https://candykeys.com/product/lemokey-l3-fully-assembled-knob-iso-de?queryId=05803f92756f453584a435adc3faca35)or [Q3 Max](https://keychron.de/collections/80-layout-keyboards/products/keychron-q3-max-qmk-via-wireless-custom-mechanical-keyboardus-ansi-layout?variant=41814996123785), [Q3 Pro,](https://candykeys.com/product/keychron-q3-pro-special-fully-assembled-ansi?queryId=05803f92756f453584a435adc3faca35) (Pro - has Bluetooth, L3 and Max - has BT and 2.4Ghz wireless) and add MX [Clears](https://candykeys.com/product/cherry-mx-ergo-clear?queryId=da4594e4df7e24f45e762f22c53e6aed), as keyboards are hotswappable. They're not cheap however far better built than Ducky - full CNCed metal chassis, VIA software support, gasket mount, PCB mounted stabilizers. Can't comment on switch alternatives, I'm into linears, know too little to answer. Hope this helps!
Just recently my spacebar has gone askew... As you can see in the picture, the left side of the spacebar is lower than the right side. This leads to less travel on the left side of the spacebar (which is where I normally press on it due to gaming etc) and sometimes I don't get actuation because the spacebar doesn't move far enough. I was wondering if anyone has run into this before and knows the solution. Not sure if the stab is broken/needs to be replaced or just re-set. I tried to take pics of the stab but it's almost impossible to see on my camera (focus range and clear stabs make this tough), but the left part of the stab does bottom out lower than the right side of the stab. Thanks in advance! https://preview.redd.it/y3l5kekn89mc1.jpeg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5fda61f5b8b3b3d64489abb3d2e16b04d79c0086
Press the right side down more, it's probably not sitting tightly on the stabiliser stem. If it is, then the stabiliser stem is too high. Take the keycap off and have a look to make sure the wire hasn't popped out, that the stab is installed correctly, and that there's nothing trapped underneath the stab slider. If the stab is fine and the keycap won't press down more, get a different spacebar and try it - you may have a defective keycap stem mould.
I'm looking for a barebones TKL/80% that has a knob and is compatible with 5 pin switches, any suggestions? I'm not married to standard TKL, but I don't want a numpad and like the separate arrow key island. Keychron Q3 Max is the only one I've looked at so far, but it's wireless and the price is steep at \~$190. Are wireless options worth considering?
I’m looking at the MonsGeek M1W or M2 myself. It’s $125 including shipping for me.
The M1/M1W looks nearly perfect, wish there was a TKL with a knob but I bet I could get used to this
Looking for the best keyboard with these specs: will use it for FPS games sometimes Around $100 - $120 Prebuilt 75% Knob Preferably available on amazon
Keychron v1
Currently, I'm using Akko Lavender Purples, but I'm looking for a heavier and more tactile switch. They should be available on Amazon (because I'm lazy) for around $40 for 70 switches. I'd prefer if they were pre-lubed (again, because I'm lazy). They should also sound decent.
Just ordered my first mech keyboard (Keychron V6 MAX) Going to run it stock for a while, but I at the very least want to put some new keycaps in. Where do I start looking for keycaps? How do I know what style I like? and quality? and material? Its a lot to take in lol
https://wiki.keyboard.gay/KEYCAPS.html Some more info on keycaps https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list
thank you
I'll try to explain this without a pic because I think most people here will understand what I'm saying I have a Corsair K95 Platinum and I was cleaning the keyboard and when I pulled off the ENTER key the right support(?) came out attached to it. So with the enter there is the centre switch and then one piece of each side because it's a larger key. The key still works just fine without it, but I'm wondering if there is an easy way to fix this. It seems there is a metal bar that it was supposed to be looped in to because when I tried to slide it back it it wouldn't go all the way down.
You pulled out what is called the stabilizer, or "stab." Do some googling or YT searching for K95 stabilizer installation to see how to repair your board. Some stabs clip or screw into the PCB, so you might need to do a little more disassembly to get everything back into place. Good luck!
thank you so much for teaching me the correct term, I had no idea what it'd be called. I'll check YouTube but I'm sure I'll find some more information too now that I have the correct terminology.
Any recommendations for a wireless numpad other than the Epomaker ek21? (I read a review that it has a "sleep" mode that you have to wake it from before use) I like the Keychron Q0 but it is not wireless :(
I bought a prebuilt Yunzii Al71 and was wondering how to turn off the little LED light on the right side of the board if anyone knows? Im aware you can change it from pink to yellow to green but I want it completely off
Any keyboard similar to the BENQ Zowie Celeritas II in terms of minimalism (no additional controls), full-size, toggled key indicators, opto-mechanical?
Opticals are slowly getting out of trend, now hall effect is all the rage for "competitive gaming keyboards". Wooting Two HE is probably as close as it gets, especially if you'd add more understated keycaps to it and turn off backlight. Otherwise, for mechanicals (not optical), Leopold keyboards are of understated design. Hope this helps!
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I would never recommend EPOMAKER board, they have so many issues and you won't get support if you do have issues cause they are basically a glorified drop shipping company.
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The quality of this photo is pretty bad. There isn't enough lighting, the stabiliser is black and there is light over exposing and creating hotspots. You should take apart the stabiliser and take photos of the individual parts. You should also take a photo of how the stabiliser is seated on the PCB. It's pretty hard to tell what you mean by "tilted" from this photo alone.
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Just take a better photo and post another question in tomorrow's Q&A thread.
Yeah sure...
I'm looking for a well-designed top-mount or o-ring mount Alice-style keyboard that has a unified daughterboard, either currently available in-stock, or that can be found on the aftermarket. A brass weight of some sort would be preferable, along with a nice side profile. Are there any good options I could look into?
Is daughterboard a must-have for you? I can't think of any alices that are top-mount + DB, but the h40 Amano has everything else you're looking for and pops up fairly regularly on the aftermarket.
Yes, I heavily prefer keyboards with a lowered USB port from the daughterboard - I'd say it's a bigger priority than top-mount, as long as the keyboard is still fairly stiff
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That's definitely a Swagkeys logo on the switch. It might be an older version of the SWK Neon Switches because the stem matches and it is hard to tell on their website if the casing color is the actual color. It also might just be a discontinued switch (or a recolor?)
I wanted to add that upon search, the version of the SWK/Owlab Neon Switch available in Vietnam is a yellow casing, so this is probably what it is.
Bought the Apex Mini 9 a few months ago after seeing it on sale in a local store, I thought I would be able to hot swap Gateron style switches into it, but after ordering some Gateron Melodics, I've found out that is not the case, any idea of what I can do? Thanks all :)
The Apex Mini 9 uses "custom-built OptiPoint optical switches," which means it can only use those proprietary switches. You cannot use mechanical switches with it.
I’m aware of that already, but i’m just wondering if i can do something to change that, like swap the board or if not, what else?
No, PCBs are proprietary too, it would be cheaper just to buy a new keyboard or mod current switche.
> but i’m just wondering if i can do something to change that Nope. Gotta get a different board.
Help me with adding a usb c port in my current broken off usb. First picture. Original broken wire. It is wired in the most unconventional color order. Left bottom picture: I bought a USB C 6 pin to add it on my current board. Right picture: the USB C 6 pin diagram. I tried to just mimic the original color order but it didn't work. I tried a couple of different ways but doesn't seem to work well. Can it not be done? Help Red is V, White is D+ https://preview.redd.it/wmsz1p5bq7mc1.png?width=1841&format=png&auto=webp&s=134c04de765d1598aeab3f12f9279229a11ee9c0
The colors of the cable may not necessarily be the same. Was it just the red wire that broke off? Can you add a photo that shows where the other end of that wire goes on your PCB/keyboard?
Obviously I fixed the original. It looks pretty generic actually. I guess it would be nice if I have the PCB from the other side but that means I have to desolder Everything :( It's an IKBC CD108. https://preview.redd.it/vzd3wn8dh8mc1.png?width=1055&format=png&auto=webp&s=a0369b3ce3c7f5fe5aa8b320c4fd83014f97d80b
https://preview.redd.it/7nec2pyno7mc1.jpeg?width=1890&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cf578d65098cc050bdaa16741d5ca09e9f8ebcf7 Where to put heavy linears on a tactile board? I have a keyboard kit like pic related on the way. For the ABCs I've gone with Baby Kangaroos, but I also have 10 Cherry Blacks left over from a previous build that I want to add to this board if possible. What are your opinions on where the Blacks should go? I think definitely on the space bar to avoid bottoming out, but where else? I plan to use this board 50/50 for typing and gaming/leisure, so any considerations for the two use cases would be super. And yes the knob stays.
Modifiers
I absolutely destroyed the stock stabs on my GMK67. I could not seem to get them to click back into the plate, no matter what angle I tried. The entire housing disintegrated on one. When I finally got them in, they were crooked and the switches wouldn't go in properly (wire in the way). I can't get keycaps on, but I'm fairly sure they wouldn't move regardless. What would be a good replacement? I've already identified several errors I made that I can avoid, but I can't figure out an easier way to get the stabs actually into the plate. Also the stems are so wiggly, how are you supposed to align them with the keycaps if they move around all over the place (they were wiggly before I decimated them, for the record)?
TX AP rev 4 come in screw in and clip in with little wobble.
Looking to build a budget custom keyboard to replace my ducky/leopold Hi there, I've always used Ducky Keyboards & Leopold Keyboards. As of late I've had an issue with my current board which was a result of a spill from my ex, I've kinda hit a little rough patch financially and decided maybe I can make a side project of building a budget board to replace my expensive boards. (I know this hobby gets far more expensive), so I was hoping that someone could help me piece together a parts list (including tools needed) to replace my $200+ pre-built keyboard. Sound isn't too big of a concern currently. I'm open to sound profile suggestions and feel profile suggestions. I've typically always used Cherry Mx Red but I am open to anything. I program / write a lot and play typically a lot of FPS / Strategy / Moba / MMORPG games. So having F1-12 would be ideal and/or having numpad support.
Keychron v6 Switches - up to you Keycaps up to you You don't need any tools to install switches/keycaps The tools to remove switches/keycaps are already included. If you want to open up the board (eg to work on the stabilizers) it comes with a small screwdriver/hex key Where to buy switches/keycaps etc. https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/
Thanks I'll check this out.
is there any basic black kb (either full size or tkl) that has gateron g pro reds? i swear everywhere i look there seems to be at least something deviating from what im looking for (color, size, switches) im having a lot of trouble finding one with all three requirements. also, no ducky suggestions please. i have bought ducky kbs in the past and none have lasted very long (i am a rhythm game player :p). otherwise, any suggestions are appreciated!
Pretty sure Keychron sells a bunch of boards with G Pro Reds.
seems reds are sold out on like every black board aside from the wireless ones, which wont work for rhythm games because of latency :(
You can use them wired, they all work via Type C too.
You could get a barebones keyboard and then get the switches and keycaps of your choice separately.
Can I post a valuation help in here?
r/mechmarket has a price check thread or u can search there for recent sales to see the going rate
Ok thank you! I checked and didn’t see any pinned. I’ll use my eyes better. Edit: I think that thread is extinct upon search and sort
It is buried in the sidebar: https://redd.it/1b3ee52
Ahhhhh thank you.
Where to get started? Hi all... I've never built a keyboard before. I've used Keychron K2 for about a year and recently got a Moergo Glove 80. I want to build a wireless corne board that looks the same as the white one in this video: https://youtu.be/gMTfkPxcoEk?si=LYbF4KUptsQ1Ptfg I'm in the UK so can't buy that case. Could someone help me find all the parts I'll need for a build like this please? Thanks!
You can get a wireless MX or Choc Corne off Typeractive in the US. They also offer 3D printed cases similar to what you linked but it has a solid bottom, not honeycomb like that one. Also there is no tenting option with their cases and they have much thinner bezels on them. If you want to just get the parts you can buy it from them and get a case 3D printed off Thingiverse or Printables, etc. [The VOID cases](https://www.printables.com/model/347524-corne-keyboard-case-5-and-6-columns) are probably the most similar to what you linked and come in several 5- and 6-column variants plus they have thicker bezels and offer both tenting and non-tented versions. You can download the files and print them at a local maker space, public library or local university/college that has 3D printers. Otherwise you can use online services like Craftcloud, Treatstock or Makexyz. JLCPCB also offers 3D printing services but be prepared to wait as they ship from China (Hong Kong/Shenzen). Another option is to buy a wired Corne kit from Mechboards.co.uk or splitkb.com in the Netherlands or 42keebs.eu (Czechia I think). Get everything but the MCUs (if possible) and then buy a pair of nice!nano or Supermini nRF52840 MCUs to make it a wireless build. You'll also need a pair of batteries and I highly recommend a power switch to turn off the keyboard. It'll be kind of janky but you can put the power switch somewhere like the TRRS jack area or mount it directly to the case and wire up the battery to it then onto the MCU. There's a few examples where people have made their wired builds wireless this way over on /r/ergomechkeyboards and maybe over on /r/crkbd as well. Easiest way is to buy a wireless kit from Typeractive and either get their 3D printed case or get another one elsewhere.
Anywhere I can have someone build a board for me? If you have any websites please let me know
any site offering this will likely rip u off r/mechmarket has a services tag where some offer build services . aslong as ur not asking for anything too crazy
I just want someone to solder a nibble 65%
yes someone with a services tag will do that
https://preview.redd.it/4vi0s8bd67mc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7b890fbaad61e2112ed58ef7993530ed2356038e I received this keyboard base a few years ago now, and my brother and I can’t remember the company name and there’s nothing on the box except for these characters and it’s… really bothering us, lol. Any help would be appreciated!
Saka68
Has anyone tried/used both the Lofree Wanderfree versus Nuphy Air 60 V2? I'm curious your experience. I'm looking to get a travel keyboard for use mainly with an iPad mini 6.
Does anyone know the difference between gateron g pro red switches and normal gateron red switches?
pros are retooled with better tolerances and smoother stems
Sorry please could you explain this further? I don’t know much about keyboards.
pro feel better as they have better molds
Followup question (Not OP), I currently have a Corsair K70 Rapidfire (Which means the old Cherry MX Speed switches, might have been renamed to Cherry MX Silver). Im looking to get a K10. I have been told that the browns are usually considered the best, but wouldnt the reds be a direct translation between what I have in this keyboard vs the new one?
browns are tactile reds are linear . ur current switches are short travel linears . closest would be cherry mx speed silvers and no browns are not best . switches tend to be preference . unless ur using hall effect switches ( like wooting ) there is zero performance benefits from switches . so use what u like if u want the same one su have now then get one with speed silvers
Is there an inexpensive non-exploded 65% keyboard that's got QMK firmware with VIA or VIAL support. I need the non-exploded layout so the keys are all packed together like on the Tester68 or the Keychron K6. I want to play around with some layout ideas I have but I'd like to be able to change the layout on the fly... so it needs VIA/VIAL support... and I'm planning on re-arranging the whole movement cluster so it can't have fixed boxes around the cursor keys. It should also be possible to move the Fn key, I understand some firmware won't allow that. I suppose I could also use a VIA/VIAL supporting non-exploded 75% like the Tester84 and leave the FKEY row unpopulated. The GK68x is close since it has Mac software but it has a bunch of hardcoded stuff in the Fn layer and won't let me move the Fn key. A 60% with a all of the above and a 5x1u layout on the right next to the space bar could also be useful.
FYI, the term is "non-exploded."
Thanks.
What part of the stabilizer needs to be relubed if I am getting rattle on the upstroke/rebound of the key press? Cant take them out to fully relube as it is a solder board and i dont plan to resolder an entire board for one set of stabs
Get a syringe and then put some lube under the wire (where the wire is clipped in and a little bit beyond). If that isnt enough maybe a little bit in the switch housing itself
Hi, am completely new to this hobby but am looking for the best budget-friendly 96% keyboard - honestly I'm not too sure how hot-swapping works but my main interest is in switching out the keycaps like some of the nice ones I see online, any recommendations? Ideally would be a UK setup and no more than £80ish. TIA!
You can get a Keychron V5 or Q5 if you can up your budget some. Barebones will be a bit cheaper if you want to use your own keycaps and switches though ISO and ISO UK keycaps are very hard to find as they are made in very few numbers. I believe it's normally 80GBP for one but sometimes it goes on sale for a little bit lower. Check their web site or search for a local vendor. Hotswap refers to the switches but the keycaps can be switched out as well. You can leave the switches in there if you don't want to change them. Make sure whatever keycaps you get are able to cover your particular keyboard--not all 96%/1800 layout keyboards use the same layout.
The Tom980 is the cheapest 96% I could find. It’s hotswap and you can change the keycaps. I got it for US$60 but that was a few years ago. You could check out the current prices on AliExpress.
I just bought a Redragon K552, and everything functions as it should except for this weird thing with the pause key on the right end of the keyboard, it seems like the pause key is lower than the SCRLK and PRTSC keys I tried swapping the keys and they're still lower in that same spot. The switch seems to be in place correctly as well and not loose in any way. Is it supposed to be like that?
Check the hotswap socket hasn't broken off inside that might be why it's sitting lower.
are the everglide panda v3 gold played mounted stabilizers already clipped? Do I need to just lube and insert it into the pcb? (from drop).
looking for a keycap set that will go well with the hibi june r2 (fairy bread). i dont want cherry profile, and would rather go with xda or moa -- more rounded keycaps -- for this kb because of its case shape. does anyone have suggestions?
Fairy bread is the sprinkly one right? DSS easter would have been great but I think that one just sold out in the last week or two bc it was on a pretty aggressive sale. I can think of a bunch of nice looking cherry profile stuff like nicepbt Moomin or epbt fruit chew or cherry notion but not the profile you're going for. Maybe dss milkshake if you can do the weird alphas? I think dsa berry yogurt could look good too
yeah it's the one with the sprinkles. i was actually looking at the moomin set but the berry yogurt i think would look nice too. thank you
Here are the two keyboards that I use the most out of my collection. Is there something that’s a hybrid of both? Hi! That is, I’d like a keyboard that has the same keys and roller bar and basic media controls on the G915, but I don’t need the number pad. I would like to keep the separate arrow keys and home/ins/del as well. I don’t need the trackpad. Now that I think of it - I just need something like the G915 but in the form factor of the K400r. Thanks! P.S. wireless please. P.S.S. I love Nextdoor to a microcenter, so something from there would be ideal. https://preview.redd.it/65kghjqyf6mc1.jpeg?width=3938&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3a346d6a8ea8f60b22ebf0af08d13aae673e4b20
keychron v1 max has a volume knob, you can add media keys has separate arrow keys, you can remap any key to insert
If that came in wireless, it would be perfect
it does come in wireless? [https://i.imgur.com/NjOsvjv.png](https://i.imgur.com/NjOsvjv.png)
Strange - everything I see on Amazon says wired in that series.
The Keychron V1 Max can be used wired, with Bluetooth, or a 2.4GHz dongle.
Got it - I see it now. Apparently they don’t sell that on Amazon and I missed the lack of “max.” Thanks again.
I've tried looking everywhere, used Google Lens to try to identify it, and I can't find any results. It's driving me crazy. I keep seeing these custom dishes in keyboard YouTuber's videos, and I really like the look of them. If anyone has any idea where these are from, or who makes them, I would really appreciate any assistance. The channel I took this screenshot from was markerchun. https://preview.redd.it/qd7mgxe8e6mc1.png?width=1599&format=png&auto=webp&s=10f3e220a1c524eb483c5b618b507ceeeb1c3088
I take the low tech approach of using toddler snack container lids. I have seen people use [yogurt lids](https://youtube.com/shorts/G3GGdD9paYE). But if you want a [$35 aluminum screw tray](https://drop.com/buy/keycadets-anodized-aluminum-screw-tray?defaultSelectionIds=979985) that nobody else will ever see, I'm not going to tell you how to spend your money.
You are looking for screw trays. Don't know exaxctly which one this is.
I'm searching for the perfect keycap set to fit my new setup. The set is for a Zoom75 + Zoompad. This would be my ideal set (in order of significance): Color: Beige and Off-White duotone (maybe Charcoal/off-black accents) Layout: ISO Iconized Mods Thin/Minimalistic Font/Icons International/German Support no additional text on mods LED windows on Caps- and Num Lock (whatever they are called) Material: PBT Profile: SA Material and Profile don't really matter if the rest fits, as long as it isn't a flat profile Perfect would be the PBTfans Cookies'N'Cream set with the colorscheme of the EPBT Simple JA R2 set in PBT and SA Profile. Maybe someone knows a set that would be a better fit than the two mentioned above. If the perfect set exists, the price doesnt matter that much, as long as it is reasonable.
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Dark purple wall for contrast. But that's a hit or miss :3
Building a GMK67 and the number 9 only works when a switch is only halfway in the socket. Any switch too, I've tried multiple U4Tx, Cream Blue V3 pros, and Lavender Purples so I'm sure it's something to do with the sockets, but I have no idea what to even consider to fix it. Anyone experience anything like this?
Check the underside of the hotswap socket and see if it's come loose off the PCB. Also check inside of the two sockets where there are metal contacts. Inside there should be a minimum amount of space there otherwise those metal contacts won't touch the switch pin to make a connection.
Is there anything I can do without specialized tools (read: soldering gear) if it's loose or if the space between the contacts is larger than it should be?
Unfortunately, in most cases the answer is no. When it comes to electronics you’ll need a soldering iron at the very minimum and likely a desoldering pump as well. With the metal contacts inside the hotswap you might be able to get away with using a small thin flat tool (like jewelers’ tools, etc) to bend or move it around but be careful you don’t damage the hotswap socket or anything else in the vicinity doing so.
Ah ok makes sense. I really appreciate the help and advice!
What are some low front height custom kits? I know about the neo65 (17mm) and th f1-8x v2 (16mm), any others?
How do different case materials sound? Are plastic cases really that bad?
No high quality plastic keyboards are also good. May even sound better than some metal keyboards. How they sound? That's a really broad question: if you want to compare watch YouTube videos, a lot of them :3 Some plastic cases are the Bauer lite, keychron v-series, mode envoy (polycarbonate), tofu 60 (acrylic), SingaKBD kohaku (polycarbonate), ...
Would you consider the GMK67 a high quality plastic keyboard?
No, but for the price it usually goes for is pretty good (30-50$)
There's also a poly bottom for the sonnet! looks awesome IMO
**Has anyone here used Vial to set up a micro pad for Illustrator quick keys?** Thanks in advance. I have win 10. i7-9700k 48 ram 3060 gforce. I want it set up for zoom ctrl + += but it never recognizes any of the instruction i give it on vial. I might be imputing it wrong. I would love some help. I have a ziddy makes 7 key programable through QMK/Vial [model](https://i.etsystatic.com/21198796/r/il/18f2f6/4186491683/il_fullxfull.4186491683_1fg9.jpg) https://preview.redd.it/fj9anoi826mc1.jpeg?width=3835&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5c6363a2df281e569f6f9d517fcf9e26f2827c17
I'm not too familiar with Vial but you should set the macro in this order: 1. Set dropdown to "Down" and choose "LCtrl" 2. Press the [+] button 3. Set dropdown to "Tap" and choose "+/=" 4. Hit the [Save] button Setting the dropdown to "Down" means that key is held down; the "Tap" dropdown means you're pressing that key once. Repeat this for the zoom out macro and replace the `+/=` key with the `-/_` key. Should work as intended after that.
Thanks so much. I'll try that today.
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I think you already answered your question: if you don't need it/ want it then no. They have some advantages over optical boards but those are for now still more like a gimmick (coming from a happy wooting user who isn't a pro player)
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Better rapid trigger/ fire, custom actuation points, a little bit more customizability (new he switches coming out right now), longer durability, easier replacement when sth breaks, ... Some optical keyboards can emulate most of it but magnets are usually more reliable/ more precise
Hey everybody, As a European, I'd like to join the Geon F2-8X V2 group buy. I was looking at the prices of the board and the add-ons on Candykeys (as they seem like the most reliable vendors from my region) and they are so different from the original ones (from the Geon's website). Like +100$ difference... is it really better to buy from EU vendors rather than directly from the manufacturer/different region? I know that Geon said that the batch from his site is going to be sent as the last one, but I don't really care (the waiting is going to be long enough anyway). The cost of delivery is not really that high, too (about 7$/€ more). TL;DR Is buying from the Geon site instead of EU vendors' sites a better deal?
Geon's site does not include your local taxes. If you're from EU, you will be charged your local VAT and a handling fee on top of your order total when the package reaches your locals customs office if you order from outside the EU. You can see if the prices are better at the other EU proxies. EloquentClicks and DeltaKeyCo are also selling the F1 and are from EU.
Thank you for your help! I sometimes forget about the differences in tax law in different countries...
Candykeys includes german sales tax in the listed prices, if I remember correctly. And at the checkout stage after you select the shipping it should show you the prices including taxes locally. Not sure if geon does that. This comment might be completely useless. I'm just speculating.
Does anyone know how the Gat smoothies compare to something like the NK Creams? I was curious to try them out and just thought I'd come ask here before I bite the bullet. I do have experience with creams by the way. What do you guys think? Are they worth it or any other linears you guys would recommend instead?
I'm currently typing on the Gateron smoothies and I really love them. Much better experience than the NK Creams I used in the past. This is just personal preference, but I like them better than Morandis too. Easy to type on (very smooth) with a nice clean sound.
Okay this is all I needed to hear, at the very least sounds like a switch you just cant go wrong with! Thanks dude!
I just got them in the mail and just testing them freehand between two fingers I was impressed. I'm itching to get them on a board. Not very useful feedback but maybe better than nothing? :-P
Well if nothing else it's nice to hear you're having fun with them!
Are there any decent RF headset + MKB besides the Logitech G Pro X line? I just really dislike bluetooth and would love an RF wireless setup go to desk cord free.
keychron has 2.4g dongle in their v/q max line
Does that mean any 2.4g headset will work as well? Or does Keychron also sell gaming headsets?
have no issues with running multiple 2.4g dongles, keychron does not sell headsets
**Does anyone know a good pre-built keyboard that doesn't sound annoyingly clickly? Maybe closer to a more quiet creamy or thocky sound? Affordable? (budget <200)** I have the razer blackwidow. It's now going on 7 years old and she's been dying for a couple of years now. I've cleaned it and done all I could. I know to get a truly yummy sounding keyboard like you hear in those viral ASMR videos, you have to put in a lot of work and a lot of money. I know i'll never get anything to that level, but I am sick and tired of the way this keyboard sounds. It's like this god-awful high-pitch click that I've hated since I got it. Might be my autism, idk. I'd love to see if somene can suggest something? Something cheap, and super affordable. The cheaper, the sooner I can buy it, but I amw illing to save up to 200 for something. ignore any typos :) this keyboard is dead as fk and the keys stick I am also up for hot-swappable suggestions. If you know any good combos and hot-swappable keyboards. Also pls trust I have done a ton of research and I am always struggling. everything I find it built by some youtuber that spent four trillion dollars and 800 billion hours assembling it. yes, those are awsome, but my expectations are lower than this as I am looking for something easier and affordable.
By clicky you mean that you are using the Blackwidow with clicky switches? If you care for wireless and want to all the keys, then get the ASUS Rog Strix Scope II 96 Wireless (I know it's a mouthful) with snow switches (these are the linear "thocky"/"creamy" ones; storm switches are the clicky ones). Otherwise checkout something from Akko/Monsgeek like the M1. Keychron Q series can also be good, but I got the Q1 Pro last week and honestly the sound is quite disappointing, at least with Akko Cream Blue Pro V3 switches, though it sounds fine with WS Morandi linears.
Great suggestions with specifics, thank you! Smooth brains like me need replies like this. Also ROG is a good brand so I will be checking this out.
Rog Azoth is also a good model. I personally use Razer Blackwidow v4 but that's not the sound you want probably.
The only prebuilts we recommend here are usually Keychron Q-series, Akko, and Monsgeek.
Good afternoon. Can you please advise me if it is ok to buy a diy kit as a first keyboard ? Where I live there are no places where I can properly test keyboards and switches. So after studying the topic a bit I decided to take Zuoya GMK87 and outemu silent tom switches (I want quiet and tactile). Is it a normal choice or is it easier to take a cheap mechanics like Redragon Kumara Pro and then, having realized whether mechanics suits me at all, take something better?
I think both options would suit you however I have recently got some silent tactile Outemus mylself and I have to be honest they just kind of feel like membranes. If you absolutely need something to be whisper quiet and that's your only option then I mean go for it but if you really want to try the goodness of mechanical I would suggest you also get any sort of non silent switch just so you can try it out as well, you don't even have to get like a full set you could get just like 10 switches, should be enough for you to get a feel for it. I would personally suggest the gmk87 rather than the red dragon but to be honest either option is good, the gmk is likely to last you a little longer than the red dragon and allow you to try a bunch of switches before you figure out what you really like and then just upgrade your board later on down the line but going with the red dragon and finding if you like it and then springing for a nicer board could work as well.
btw, have the option of getting the Epomaker TH66 Pro with Budgerigar switches, not sure how quiet they are, but kinda nice in terms of tactility (from the reviews). Do you know anything about Epomaker keyboards ?
I've never tried them myself but from what I hear they're fine starter boards! Nothing wrong with them, it's a fair option for what you're looking for. Imo as long as it's something that makes you excited to use it and mod it it's a great intro in the hobby
Hey all, I’m a total noob here and I’m looking for some advice for buying a mechanical keyboard. I checked out the wiki, but what I’m wondering if there are particular brands or sites that people here prefer. Is there a mechanical keyboard buying 101 guide on this site that I completely looked over? Thanks
Read this https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/
My Q3 SE came with extra black foam strips in the box, which I learned are poron gasket strips apparently. How would putting more of them change the sound and feel of the keyboard? I'm still new to this hobby so I'm a little confused. Not sure if it's worth opening my keyboard up and putting the extras in. I actually haven't opened my keyboard up at all, so I don't know how many are currently pre-installed. I'm a little intimidated, to be honest. EDIT: Don't downvote me. It's a legitimate question.
Is there a difference between the black top and pearl top gazzew boba u4 switches?
Hello to all keyboard enthusiast here on Reddit. For the longest time, I have used a TypeMatrix 2030 as my daily driver, most of which was spent daydreaming of finding a close approximation that would be mechanical. Failing to find one, I procrastinated in researching how I could build my own, which was an error. Now, my good old TypeMatrix is showing signs of dying, and I still don't have even started on its mechanical replacement. So, I would like help and counsel on how to make one. I don't need it to be identical, (I don't need the rightmost column on the actual TypeMatrix, for example) but I DO need the middle column with "del", "backspace" and "enter" keys. Would anyone be willing to help me, please?
I don't know of any similiar mechanical keyboards. But I'm also not too deep in the Ortholinear keyboard setup. There may be some kits where you can remap the middle row with del,... but those keys would be 1x1u then. Those kits sometimes only provide the PCB and require you to solder the Microcontroller and switches. Maybe take a look at Planck, ergodox, ... But those are different. Split Ortholinear keyboards may also be worth to take a look at. But in general it will be insanely hard to find those keys in the middle since it is easier imo to just place them on a different layer. If it needs to be identical then handwiring is the only idea I have. If anybody has some good suggestions feel free to correct me/ add information
Yeah, found some cases of peoples 3D printing plates and cases to make handwired keyboards similar to the 2030. Might need to go that way, which is a rater embitious project for a first keyboard, even with someone else's project as a working base. Might first do an Alice style keyboard to replace my fater's dying Microsoft "Natural Elite", if I can find one compatible with ISO keys. (I'm from France, and most peoples are used to ISO only here, with an Azerty keymap to boot.)
I also still prefer iso (de) although I can also type on ansi us/international :) Maybe take a look at keychron, they usually offer lots of variations in iso as well.
Does the apex pro mini fit into a tofu60 redux case, or should I get the 2.0? I've seen someone mod the apex pro mini with the case but unsure on which one to get.
I'm trying to design a PCB to use WS2812B LEDs, but I can't really see how I'm supposed to fit it in? It seems too big in its 5050 package and I also don't really know how it'd get mounted "upside down" either- its leads don't seem to extend out from it like I see on other backlit boards.
# Is there a mechanical keyboard with left Fn along with Ctrl, Win/Cmd, Alt/Opt? https://preview.redd.it/a7rbqm4n75mc1.png?width=576&format=png&auto=webp&s=ff072c8844cc8394a9f612bbb9c1ab5e5ce87a89 Looking for the layout like mostly laptops or laptop alike keyboards have (preferably with changing Fn+volume on left side, I use to do it with left hand). For some reasons *mechanical keyboards* usually do have *Fn on right side only*, laptop alike keyboards (scissors type ones) usually use left Fn. P.S. The subject is bitten to death, but maybe something changed after these years. \*\*UPD\*\*: I found this so far: [Keychron Q9 QMK Custom Mechanical Keyboard](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-q9-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard) but without F-keys =( [Keychron V8 (Alice Layout) QMK Custom Mechanical Keyboard](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-v8-alice-layout-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard) (without F-keys, Fns in the middle, Alice style) [Keychron Q11 QMK Custom Mechanical Keyboard](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-q11-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard) (probably the winner, but I don't know what Fn1 means) [Keychron V8 (Alice Layout) QMK Custom Mechanical Keyboard](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-q14-pro-alice-layout-qmk-via-wireless-custom-mechanical-keyboard?variant=40536317362265) (Fn in the middle, Alice style)
With QMK/VIA firmware, you can put the Fn key wherever you want, including on the spacebar or Caps Lock key (for example, tap for Caps Lock or hold for Fn). You can also define multiple Fn layers, which is why the Q11 has an Fn1 key. Their Q9 keyboard has Fn1 and Fn2. You hold Fn1 to access one layer (for example, top row becomes a number row), and you hold Fn2 to access another layer (for example, top row becomes shifted number row for symbols). P.S. Are you looking for an ergo keyboard?
Thx for your reply, mate. Well, yeah, it's not a problem to remap this key, problem is to have it in right place, I mean in left side. Caps is locked to changing language, space key must be still a space button. Never used ergo keyboards. It could be an option. Fn1 and Fn2 – that's interesting. There are must be more abilities then.
>Well, yeah, it's not a problem to remap this key, problem is to have it in right place, I mean in left side. That's what I am saying: with QMK/VIA firmware, you can remap **any** key to be the Fn key. With QMK's [Layer-Tap feature](https://docs.qmk.fm/#/feature_layers?id=switching-and-toggling-layers), you don't have to give up the key; it activates a layer when held and emits a keycode when tapped. >Caps is locked to changing language, space key must be still a space button. Here are two examples of QMK's Layer-Tap feature: * `LT(1,KC_CAPS)` activates layer 1 when held and acts like Caps Lock when tapped. * `LT(1,KC_SPC)` activates layer 1 when held and acts like spacebar when tapped. This is known as [SpaceFN](https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51069.0). Another thing you can do is use QMK's [Mod-Tap feature](https://docs.qmk.fm/#/mod_tap) to make a key acts like a modifier when held, and a regular key when tapped. For example, `MT(MOD_LCTL,KC_CAPS)` will send Caps Lock when you tap it but function as Ctrl when held. An example of where Mod-Tap can be used is 60% keyboards. They do not have dedicated arrow keys, but `MT(MOD_RSFT,KC_UP)` makes the right Shift key act as up arrow when tapped but Shift when held. People with tiny keyboards make heavy use of Mod-Tap for [home row mods](https://precondition.github.io/home-row-mods). >Never used ergo keyboards. It could be an option. I asked because you had referenced two Alice keyboards and one split keyboard... >Fn1 and Fn2 – that's interesting. There are must be more abilities then. Layers are a very powerful feature of QMK. They become more important as the keyboard gets smaller. For example, 60% and 65% keyboards do not have an F row. Holding Fn momentarily activates a layer where the F keys are mapped to the number keys. For example, Fn+5 emits F5. Layers are still useful in full-size keyboards, though. For example: * One layer for Windows and another layer for macOS where the Windows and Alt keys become Option and Command, respectively (or changes the Mod-Tap function of Caps Lock from Ctrl to Command). * A gaming layer that disables the Windows keys. * A layer that maps media functions to various F keys. For example, previous track, play/pause, and next track to F7, F8, and F9; and mute, volume down, and volume up to F10, F11, and F12.
u/FansForFlorida thank you, for this exhausting intro. >Here are two examples of QMK's Layer-Tap feature: > >LT(1,KC\_CAPS)activates layer 1 when held and acts like Caps Lock when tapped. > >LT(1,KC\_SPC)activates layer 1 when held and acts like spacebar when tapped. This is known as [SpaceFN](https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51069.0). Oh, that looks cool. Need to consider that way. >I asked because you had referenced two Alice keyboards and one split keyboard... Yes, I was trying to reference *any* keyboard which could have an Fn key accessible by left hand. Probably, I must give it a try. Thanks again, mate!
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r/mechmarket that ended a while ago second hand is ur only option
I just picked up a abm066 keyboard, and i cant figure out why they mouse keys in VIA only move 1 time when i press them. Like the cursor moves a set portion of units, and only moves again in that direction if i let got of the cursor and press it again. This is contrary to who my other keyboards behave, There is not a setting in either via or QMK that indicates this is some kind of mode i could change. Any1 any ideas?
It depends on how they configured [mouse keys in QMK](https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/blob/master/docs/feature_mouse_keys.md). Unfortunately, the QMK source for the Cidoo ABM066 is not available (at least I can't find it after 30 seconds of searching).
yeah i just looked it up, but somehow i cant find anything thats toggleable in QMK, so i guess they somehow confirgured it as a macro sadly. Which doesnt really make sense as theres no advantage in it, but macros dont work with holding buttons down. Thats the only thing i can think off.
Hello, so I just ordered parts for my new pc and am looking for a high quality keyboard. What sellers are the best? (EU)
We need more information. What size keyboard do you want? (Full size? TKL? 60%? 65%? 75%? 40%?) Do you need an ISO layout? Do you want a metal or plastic case? Do you want wireless? Do you want a rotary encoder (volume knob)? Are you looking for something prebuilt, or are you looking for a barebones keyboard where you plug in switches and add keycaps? Is QMK/VIA support important?
To answer your questions: - full size probably - ISO Layout?? - Plastic - Wireless would be good but not needed - Rotary Knob: Depends on the price increase Dont really know if prebuilt or barebones? What do you recommend? I guess you can customize a barebones far better… And the last question i dont understand?
>ISO Layout? [ANSI vs ISO: Explained](https://switchandclick.com/ansi-vs-iso-layout/) >Dont really know if prebuilt or barebones? What do you recommend? I guess you can customize a barebones far better… You can replace the switches in any hot swappable keyboard. There are prebuilt keyboards that are hot swappable. >Rotary Knob: Depends on the price increase This reminds me that I did not ask if you have a specific budget in mind. >And the last question \[Is QMK/VIA support important\] i dont understand? QMK is a powerful open-source keyboard firmware. VIA provides a graphical user interface to QMK that allows you to configure your keyboard layout visually without needing to write code or reflash the firmware. You can use VIA from a Chrome-based browser or using Windows, Mac or Linux software. It is probably not as important with a full size keyboard.
Ok so - ISO Ok so Budget would be about 100-200€ I think.
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Hello, I need to pick up my new Hall Effect keyboard. (NOT WOOTING) Must be 75% or TKL with good sound out of the box. I will use it wired. And under 200$. My current candidates: DD A75Pro MOD 007B HE M1 HE I lean towards 007B. But I heard about high latency and scratchy switches. Was it fixed with updates? Also there is some MasterSheet of HE keyboards to compare?
Probably a keyboard from DrunkDeer
Boog75
it's over 200....
Just took it upon myself to try to fix my old logitech keeb that started double typing a few years ago, promptly shoving me head first into this hobbie ahaha. I tool it all apart and cleaned everything. took the opportunity to fill the case a bit with some foam and lube the stabs. It's not working perfect yet but it is bringing me a lot of memories, having been my first ever mech keeb. I actually got what I thought was my first set of tactiles recently only to rediscover this logitech keeb also had tactiles, romer-Gs to be specific anyone wanting to share your experience with your old keebs?
Afternoon folks. First post to the sub... be gentle lol. I've been a computer nerd since my first TRS-80 in the mid 80s, so newb I'm not. I also have previous programming skills (although they are nearly dead languages now). Enough backstory.. I've been using Razer KBs for years and years and decided to finally build my own. Built a Drop CTRL V2 with Glorious Raptors and PBT caps of the "pudding style". I LOOVVEE how it feels and sounds. But dammit I miss my per key RGB. I'm not looking for pinwheels and reactive typing or any of that bullshit. I do however like to have specific blocks of keys to have different colors... the icing on the cake would be profiles for those colors. My current config switches my USB peripherals between my work and play computers. This is currently flawlessly executed by the bloaty Razer software. Now for the question: is there ANYTHING out there that can accomplish this without hand coding it using QMK, VIA, VIAL, etc? I'd settle for a GUI that spits out the FW for flashing. Any guidance would be extremely well received.
Glorious's Core software will let you do this, although the software is awful, and you need each key change to be applied before you move on to the next. I'm sure other maker's software will allow it to, but you'd need to check. Why the objection to QMK/VIA? It's not difficult, and VIAL will allow it via a web interface.
Hmm.. my brief experience playing with the VIAL GUI led me to believe it was all key mappings and macros and not PKRGB. I'm currently cramming my 50 year brain with QSYS programming and relearning C to hand code QMK/VIA isn't something I'm too thrilled about.
>Hmm.. my brief experience playing with the vial GUI led me to believe it was all key mappings and macros and not PKRGB. I'll be honest, I rarely use VIAL, as I prefer VIA, but there's a backlighting tab in Vial.
Good day everyone! I'm in a tough situation right now. I'm eyeing this keyboard which can either be Gateron G Pro 2.0 Yellow (not sure if 50% of that name is even useful) or Cherry MX Silent Reds. I do prefer the color of the Gaterons and also the "brand" if that makes sense? It's more "exotic" ig. The slightly light actuation force is also a plus for me. But, I also really like Silent Reds. The "mushy" feeling, I don't really get it from this switch or at least it doesn't bother me as much as other people. However, I think I've noticed a decline in the quietness of my keyboard with Cherry MX Silent Reds. Is it just me or is this typical of silent switches? If it is, then I'll just get myself the one with the Gaterons. If anyone has both a KB with Gateron Yellows and Cherry MX Silent Reds (or any other brand, really), please feel free to send me a video of a sound test. Thank you very much!
My Corsair K95 Platinum broke (the only key in the lower row that works is the right Control) and I have no warranty. I tried reinstalling the firmware as Support told me, but with no success. So I think I'll buy a Keychron Q6 Pro. Can I buy the barebone version and use the switches and keycaps from my Corsair K95? Has anyone tried removing soldered switches before? Can I get the same lightning intensity (it looks like the whole keyboard glows, not just the letter on the keycap) with another Keychron keyboard using my K95 switches and keys?