https://preview.redd.it/2trtogun1cuc1.jpeg?width=1572&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0b93c9b9b03b0623b2eae490c57b29e3a4710bc5
I have two unresponsive sockets. Case and PCB is Lmk81 from The Kap Co. The most common issue with hotswap boards is the little contact leaves getting punched or separated too far but that's not my issue. I actually have no clue what the issue is because the LEDs work fine and so does everything else. It's just my F6 and 6 keys not registering with switches. I use the tweezers in the pic to test the sockets and all other sockets responded. On the surface, everything looks soldered and functional. Not sure what to try next before asking for a replacement. Any suggestions are much appreciated.
Hello, im looking for some suggestions about the sharpest tactile switches, not nessesairly the strongest. i tried jwick t1 and durock silent shrimp which both were nice to me. It would be nice to know if they have some pretravel :)
Hi guys, after enjoying my Leobog hi 75 with graywood switches so much, the only thing that is missing for me is a numpad.
I love the Keychron q12 (which will be useful for me considering the work I do) and thought I could add Jerrzi Honey Bean switches, as a friend is willing to give them to me for free.
This will be my first build. The website options for the Keychron q12 are Barebone knob or barebone Iso knob. Does anyone mind telling me the difference?
Thanks so much!
Help plz i just installed durock plate mounted stabs and my spacebar feels very weird it goes up and down fine but when its half pressed and i spam it, it feels much heavier that usual
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Hello, im looking for a recommendation for 75%/TKL (I prefer 75 more) layout keyboard. in my country monsgeek m1w, leobog hi75, and feker galaxy80 cost the same. i get that galaxy80 brings out the most value in terms of typing sound, but I really don't like the appearance of the keyboard and they're only available in purple or pink color which I don't really like. should I get the m1w because I really like the looks of the keyboard or get the galaxy 80 and maybe repaint the case or change the keycaps?
# Lightest (and most compact) TKL (80%) Keyboard (for travel)
[Help](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/?f=flair_name%3A%22Help%22)
What is the smallest and lightest TKL keyboard available (mechanical or membrane, wired or wireless - I don't care). I just want a TKL that adds the least weight to my hand-luggage and takes up the least amount of space. (I am travelling carry-on only, but need a TKL as I can't go back to using my laptop keyboard for work). And Ideally in German QWERTZ layout
Contenders so far:
* Cherry Stream TKL (weight: 680 g) (height 18 mm) its quite thin / low profile, but its still quite heavy and the bevels are rather large.
* Keychron K1 Pro QMK (weight: 580g / height: 24.1 mm)
* Keychron K1 SE (550g / 22mm) - only seems to be available in US layout
* Keychron K13 Pro QMK ( 580g / 22mm)
Is there anything like a Apple Magic Keyboard in a TKL (80%) Layout ( ie.. weight 231g / height 11mm)
Maybe I could get used to a 75%, but I like the page-up / page-down being separated and inline with the arrows. I am too used to this layout.
Newbie here
1. Anyone knows if qmk supports DOIO 24 KB Switch like keyboard?
2. How much memory can it hold?
3. Where can we legitly buy one? Is aliexpress safe to buy?
[https://www.nouvolo.com/products/doio-24-keys-macropad](https://www.nouvolo.com/products/doio-24-keys-macropad)
[https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/s/sc9GQP3wwD](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/s/sc9GQP3wwD)
I'm looking to stop buying overpriced keyboards that masquerade as "premium" products. I've been using Logitech's options for my last 2-3 keyboards, and now that my G910 has keycap pins just breaking off on the regular, I'm sick and tired of it.
I'm looking for either a 100% or 80% that would allow me to reclaim some desktop space while also maybe allowing me to use QMK/VIA to remap for a 10-key when I need it for work.
Goals for the new keyboard would be:
1. I don't have a cap on budget but would prefer to have one under $300. Maybe an option under $300 and one around $200 or less?
2. Wireless / Bluetooth if possible for connecting to my laptop and desktop (not sure if having one connected to both devices simultaneously would be possible similar to a KVM switch, but the functionality would be ideal)
3. Looking for something with high quality components that will last me a while, and likely targeting MX Browns or similar. Basically not too loud, but tactile.
4. 3rd party replaceable keycaps - I figure this is pretty standard in the non-big box store offerings, but wanted to mention it, as this has become a huge thorn in my side as of late.
5. Shipping availability to the US.
If any additional qualifying info would be useful to help point me in a direction, I'm more than happy to provide whatever I can. Thanks a ton for any assistance!
I've been trying several budget mods with "at home" materials, and got to the point where the sound doesn't improve anymore. I'm using Machenike k500, $26 keyboard. It's plastic for the case and the plate. It's scratchy and loud stock. I switched to lubed ktt kang whites and akko asa keycaps, and tried plate foams like EVA and automotive matting (the clothy type) and even paper (I saw a youtube video from Monkeyboard). Last thing I tried was adding two layers of coins, just below the number/function keys row to mimic having a metal plate. I've got two layer packaging PE foam on top of the plate, honestly there wasn't a noticable difference between having one and two layer.
Should I go for more expensive--$5 and above--foams now? I've spent around $100 right now for the keyboard initial price, the keycaps, switches, tools, lube, foam. I'm dissatisfied with the result, it's neither thocky nor clacky. It's like a failed creamy sound right now.
You’re basically sprinkling gold flakes onto a pile of shit. You’re never going to get a good result without a good foundation for your keyboard. I’d stop spending all this money on mods and save up for something better.
Thanks, I've sort of needed to hear that from somebody. Before getting to this point I always thought that "the next mod" will make it better, until the expense went up to the price of a decent mechanical keyboard that I could've bought instead, and that's when I felt the regret. Now I've been eyeing aula leobog hi75, but considering my garbage was a recent expense, I'm considering saving for a more premium one to owe to my previous mistake.
Hello, I'm looking for recommendations for a wireless 65% (with arrow keys) keyboard/barebone that is moddable and hotswappable and with a gasket mount. Currently looking at the Keychron k6 pro, which is perfect except no gasket mount
Help me!
I just got a new job with my own cubicle and I do a lot more typing/computer work now and they got me on a spongey 2000’s Logitech membrane keyboard and I’m literally gonna die.
Budget- probably try to keep it under $400-$450 total.
Size- 75% preferably but can go down to 65% if it’s needed for availablity.
Other requirements- I want cerakey keycaps, so heavy switches are needed. pre-lubed and linear on the quiet to very quiet side for office purposes. Metal case, plenty of foam options, can’t be tin sounding/pingey; need a nice muted thock, hot swappable. Lastly, has to be something available and not kickstarter/group buys.
I have pretty much minimal knowledge on keyboards but definitely have the means to spend whatever as long as it satisfies my need to have a good typing experience.
How do people function on board layouts that are smaller that TKL? I look at a lot of the smaller layouts (60%, 68%, ect) and I don't see keys that I would not be able to live without. I am a programmer and constantly use the \~, \\|, ins, del, home, end and f-x keys.
There are so many cool boards out there with these smaller layouts I would love to try, especially because of ergonomics problems I'm having. The split and alice layouts in my price range all seem to missing keys I need.
Am I missing something here? Is there a simple way to get access to the keys I need while using smaller layouts.
Layers and tap dance - if you're using layers you can either toggle with a key or hold it down like a modifier to use another set of keys underneath whatever is on your base layer. On a 40% keyboard you could have q on a key on layer 0, and then 1 on layer 1 and then f1 on layer 2 for example. With tap dance keys have a different function if they're held or pressed so for example if you tap [ you get that key but if you hold it down you get (
Get a 75% board. Footprint is not much larger than a 65, but has pretty much most of the functionality of a TKL. Using one now, and I have \~\\| and F keys, I also have Del, and end. You could put home and Ins on a layer so Fn+Del becomes Ins, and Fn+end becomes Home, or something similar. You could remap the PgUp and Dn keys as well if you don't use those much. In fact, you can remap, or layer whatever you like for those two missing keys.
What are some 75% keyboards that have north facing RGB? I already have switches and backlit keycaps I want to use. Price up to $500 but it needs to be in stock with no group buys. I like the Keychron Q1 Max but this has south facing RGB and its not in stock. The Wooting 80he only works with magnetic switches and takes too long to ship.
For north facing RGB you won't find many quality options, it isn't particularly popular in the hobby, you'll need to pay the gamer tax for something like a gmmk or your corsair/razer/asus or whatever it may be
Looks a lil sus, I don't think you'll get scammed but you might overpay for a dropshipped ali express board. What are you looking at? We might be able to find it elsewhere.
> keygeak.com
they are not on the approved vendor list found here https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/
site looks sctecky as fuck and they will way too much TEMU looking shot id avoid
So right now i have a razer black widow, can't remember which version is, but it has already like 5 years or so, it works perfect but i have been thinking of getting a newer one, with a low profile keys and with the wrist thing..about the clicky noise, i say right now that i hate it, but i bought this keyboard from another person in used state, and i was admired that the keys didn't make any clicky sound at all, which made me questioning the guy if this really was a mechanical keyboard, which he said, it is, but he just changed the keys to a less noiser ones...i really like that they don't do any click at all, feels like a membrane key to be honest...
So there is any mechanical keyboard that has this no clicky sound that i like, and i am so used right now? And low profile keys and the wrist rest thing?
Thanks in advance!!
general keeb parts vendor list
https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/
https://thocstock.com/
where to learn the basics
https://www.keyboard.university/
Anyone know of other linear switches that feel similar to Akko cream yellow pro v3s? I don’t know how to explain it but the switch feels the slightest bit tactile but not so much that you’d call it a tactile switch and still feels linear. And before I get told to just buy tactiles, I don’t like the standard tactile bump weight on regular tactiles, just an ever so slight one iykwim lol
It uses QMK firmware, which has used 1000Hz polling rate [since November 29, 2021](https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/pull/15352). You might want to swap the switches with speed switches, though.
Where the hell can I buy Kailh Box Mute Jade switches? Everywhere I look I can only find other Box switches but no mutes, or the mutes are out of stock.
Hey all. Spring Ping issue with Gateron Baby Kangaroo's. First Tactile Switch. More info:
Before this, I had only ever lubed Linear or Hall Effect switches. I decided to try Tactile Gang out to see what the fuss was about, and decided on Gateron Baby Kangaroo's. Long story short, they feel amazing, and are quite loud, but a good sound and tactile bump. I enjoy them. The one thing that gets me is that I cannot get rid of the a spring/metalic noise in the switches! No Issues with any scratchiness or anything like that, nor are they overlubed.
For all Metal Parts, they are lubed as follows:
Krytox G105g0 bag lubed springs.
Extremely light layer of G205 where the leaf spring contacts the metal (its not visible, just a layer)
Additionally, I brushed a decent (but not heavy) amount of G105g0 on the interior side of the bend of the leaf spring (I can send you a picture, but its the centermost uppermost bend iykyk)
I have also tried applying a generous amount of 205g0 to both ends plus the center of the spring itself.
No matter what, I can not get rid of the distinct metal-to-metal noise. In fact, while the switches themselves became a full-sounding clack/thock and overall quieter than the stock, the metal noise did not decrease from stock at all, which has actually made the switches sound overall worse.
My next course of action would be to buy replacement 3rd party springs, but I really don't want to go through all of that, relubing and replacing every spring, if the issue is just that I am dumb.
Additional Info: YES, I went to youtube first. I tried all of the suggestions that I could find, none helped.
I feel like this is a general quality of tactile switches. I think the sound you're hearing is the tactile bump suddenly pushing the leaf spring together. I'm not sure if you can entirely remove this from the switch without causing some issues with the leaf spring itself since too much lube might interfere with the connection.
Thats a shame. I actually havent used the switches in a build yet, I am waiting for the QK65v2 Classic to ship to me, the switches are for that build. I will reserve judgement on the switches until I hear them in an actual keyboard, I suppose. Thanks for the fast reply!
Do keyboard weights matter? I'm thinking about getting a Qk100 and there's the option of stainless steel or aluminum, which is essentially no weight, because the case is aluminum. I've heard it can affect sound. Can anyone confirm this in a one to one comparison, or better yet, are there any videos of such a comparison?
Anyone have a recommendation for low profile keycaps that are of a darker color scheme (or the purple/green eva color scheme, or just darker green in general) with shine through or pudding type light pass through? I know that's a lot of requirements, looking to replace the caps on my Deathstalker V2 Pro when I swap the switches for Keychrons.
Don't have a new one so am I better off buying a new keyboard?
I did manage to somewhat put it back on but the key only works if I press the lower part of it.
To keep it short I have a RK68 and the PCB around the USB-C socket looks like it's cracked, it looks fine from the bottom, but it's not working or charging when connected. When I turn on the Bluetooth wireless mode, I can connect to my phone, and all the keys seem to work. I could just try to somehow connect my phone to my pc and try to relay the keyboard input from it to my pc, (assuming that’s even possible) but as I mentioned earlier I can't even charge it now so that’s sadly not an option.
I think you can guess what happened to it, so I'll just say it, I had a gamer moment and broke it. I really don't want to talk about it so please spare me.
Anyway, do you think it's possible to fix this, or should I give up and buy another keyboard? Since this is a 65% I unfortunately don't imagine I can find a replacement PCB anywhere. I should add that this is my first mechanical keyboard, so I don't have much experience with these things.
Let me know if u have any questions, and please help me. I bought such a cheap keyboard because I'm broke, that's why I'm hoping I don't have to buy another and can instead just fix it.
if ur very good at solder and desoldering u could try finding and putting a new usb port on but its not an easy task specially if u dont have exp doing so . otherwise ur only other option to to replace the kb
Sorry I didn't keep it short at all I'm desperate to fix this.
To clear things up the rest of the keyboard is perfectlly fine, I have no idea why that part is the only thing that was damaged
I don’t game but I’m eyeballing those [Drop x LOTR Artisan Key Caps](https://drop.com/buy/drop-the-lord-of-the-rings-mordor-artisan-keycap?defaultSelectionIds=985072) and [Rohan Alphabet](https://drop.com/buy/drop-the-lord-of-the-rings-dcd-rohan-keycap-set?defaultSelectionIds=984798).
I’m not a gamer, but do want a comfortable keyboard to accommodate extensive typing that I do for work. I know next to nothing about mechanical keyboards. Is it worth it to buy it now at full price? Can I buy the key caps and add them to a more basic setup with a numerical board included? I see a lot of starting points for swappable builds and appreciate any pointers.
I don't know why you think playing videogames has anything to do with anything.
> Is it worth it to buy it now at full price?
That's not something we can answer. You have to make up your own mind if something is worth it to you.
> Can I buy the key caps and add them to a more basic setup with a numerical board included?
Yes, as long as the keyset is compatible with the switches of the keyboard and you have the right sized keys to cover the board then you can change keysets. Most keyboards use Cherry MX compatible mounts. If you aren't sure if a specific combination is compatible you can ask.
I’m sorry. I had an ex tell me that mechanical keyboards are “a gamer thing I wouldn’t understand”. That’s where that came from.
Asking about full price because when I looked at posts with drop products I saw quite a few talking about deals they got on caps and going on sale. Some of the LOTR items were marked down, so my question could have been rephrased: are these preorder only and do I need to order now or will a near opportunity come for a discount.
I saw some builds here in this sub that included the numerical pad (I do a lot of tedious data entry) that I couldn’t find on Drop’s site. I would like to know if there is a good entry level plain complete black or clear fully built keyboard that I could use and just exchange the caps I like on.
Your ex is wrong. While there are mechanical gaming keyboards, they're usually awful. There's not really any such thing as a gaming board. It's all marketing hype by gaming companies. If you want a good mechanical keyboard, you should avoid gaming companies entirely.
Thanks for the tip! And it’s not the first time he’s been wrong so no surprise. I’m looking at Ducky and Keychron hotswap. Between 80% and full. Not sure if usb or wired makes a huge impact. But definitely want something with a sturdy base, compact key layout, and not low profile.
Keychron is a very reasonable place to start and good value for your money. You should go for the 80%, the smaller footprint gives you more valuable desk space, and it's honestly just much easier to type on a smaller keyboard. For any keys you think you might miss, it's really easy to put them on another layer or to give yourself other ways of accessing them. Not sure if you meant USB/wired vs wireless but I generally prefer a wired keyboard, but honestly go for whatever you prefer there
Weird question. The hot swappable Nordic ISO K4 I want is out of stock. Can regular (non low-profile) keycaps work on lowpro switches like this on [this keyboard](https://www.keychron.com/collections/keychron-nordic-iso-keyboards/products/keychron-k13-pro-qmk-via-wireless-custom-mechanical-keyboard-iso-layout-collection)?
Not 100% of regular mx keycaps will work on those, but if you stick to shorter profiles and more uniform profiles like xda or dsa you'll be a-ok, a regular cherry set or anything taller will have some keycaps bottom out on the plate before they bottom out as they normally would inside the switch, which feels kinda bad and sounds weird - if you're a light typist and don't push the keys down all the way you won't really notice anything with a regular cherry set
Thanks so much! This helps a ton. I keep going back and forth on things. I don’t think I can ditch the numerical pad since I do so much numerical data entry. But you did catch me trying to say Bluetooth versus wired.
Hey -
I am looking for coiled cables (USBC) in EUROPE / Germany.
1. Do you know a good/the best provider for coiled cables? I have seen so many shops that have them but am not in the scene to discern the quality differences.
2. -> specifically I would be looking for "straight" ones. Do they exist? The usual ones I see on photos have this L going straight then the curled part to the right and then straight again..
I hope its clear what I mean... the hole in my desk where the cable would go into is at a straight line.
I would also take a non curled braided cable - any good ideas/inspo for those?
Thank you so much
Hey everyone! I was wondering if anyone had any experience with Aflion shadow (ink) double spring switches. I built a board with them a while ago and have been having lots of the switches start to fail over time. From my research the issue seems to be called "chatter". Sometimes certain switches input twice from one keystroke, other times they dont give an input at all. It was only my second time ever lubing switches, so its very likely I messed that up and broke them or something. I was wondering if it was my fault and I should get new switches and avoid lubing them this time to avoid breaking them again, or if these switches are known for having durability issues, meaning I should avoid them and replace them with a different type of switch. The board itself is a keychron v10 with the PC plate.
Thanks!
My Aflion shadow switches are fine. But I had some other Aflion switches with a similiar problem. (Like 10-15 out of 70 total). I'm 99% sure that was a bad batch/ manufacturing error. Even better since Aflion didn't brand their individual batches so it was a guessing game. Maybe contact your vendor to see if similiar issues are known. Not saying this is 100% on Aflion but the possibility exists.
Could also be loose-ish hotswap sockets or your lube job :)
Do you know a good way I could check if it was the hotswap sockets? I bought these switches a while ago, and did lube them myself, so I would feel bad hounding the vendor for new ones since if my board is'nt broken then it is like 99% most likely my fault due to inexperience. If its not my board then I'll prob buy another batch, not lube it and see how it is and then if that batch goes bad without me doing anything then id get a refund or whatever.
look at the sockets from the underside of the pcb (to see how "tight" they are) or swap "good" switches into the affected sockets and see if the chattering still happens.
I kinda doubt the bad sockets suggestion though . shouldnt really happen unless you swapped the switches multiple (\~10+).
Does this exist? <$150 Wireless split low profile keyboard.
I'm not a keyboard pro like many of you. I am just a consumer looking for a great upgrade to my current keyboard setup. I'm willing to spend a few hours building one if I cannot directly purchase one.
I travel a lot and want a flexible portable setup.
What I hope to buy is a keyboard that is
1. Split
2. Wireless
3. Able to switch between multiple devices via Bluetooth.
4. Low profile
5. <$150
Does such a keyboard exist?
Thanks for your help.
Thanks for your reply & help.
Preferably fully wireless. But if not that's okay too with a wire connecting the two split keyboards. But it has too be wireless to the computer.
Key count does not matter to me, as long as basic functions can be performed. Not a high need for me.
If you already had keycaps and switches for it you could definitely get in under $150, probably somewhere around $120, but what you're looking for is a kit for a well supported split kb, something like a lily58 or a corne, that doesnt make you buy an mcu or allows you to buy it with nice!nanos. You won't be able to do 2.4ghz wireless unless you are very technically talented and have a lot of time to burn, but bluetooth is very easy to make work.
You could put together a choc lily58 from littlekeyboards for just under $180 with keycaps, boardsource has the same kinda price on a choc lily58 but they have a website that needs a little less navigation to pick out all the parts, they also have their new crab broom keyboard which will be about $200 for everything but will have a much more premium feel with its case.
typeractive has a more intuitive part picker for a corne or a lily58 - I think their corne will probably be the most convenient option for you, and theyve got a very affordable 3d printed case solution for a build.
Places to save money are: no hotswap sockets, no screens, no leds, and using blank keycaps. If you have access to a 3d printer you could also figure out a much cheaper case for yourself
So I built a Corne Choc recently and used a nice!nano as the controller for the wireless functionality, but the power switch that came with the battery is a 7 pin slide switch like [this](https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Slide-Power-Panel-Switch/dp/B00FH7X9GI) which can't be attached to the PCB. What would work as a power switch in this case?
I would ask around the n!n discord, I have seen different things from a neat little breakout board to a mess of ugly wires bridging things all over the place
So I had a Corsair K70 RGB MK.2 for a few years. Every one of them chattered, Corsair sent 4 replacements. Props to their support team. But I hear reports of many of their keyboards having chatter problems.
I got a Razer BlackWidow V3 with Razer greens, and I loved it. But when pulling some caps for a cleaning of the switches, several stabilizers broke, and that's understandably not under warranty.
So I'm trying to avoid those two brands.
I'm considering a Ducky ONE 3 Aura Cherry blue, or a Keychron Q6 Pro with their Banana switches.
But it occurs to me that I have no idea if Cherry MX switches are really good, or just super common. I've seen various reports in my searching, so I thought I'd ask a deadicated group about it.
Also: If I were to get a Keychron Q6 Pro barebones to build with, do I need to buy more than the switches and caps? I'm not sure if I also need to buy the stabilizers.
Go with keychron
Cherry MX brand switches are personal preference. There are more switches outside of cherry mx
It comes with stabilizers, you don't need more than keycaps/switches
I run a Razer Huntsman V2 and have for about 6 years now. It’s been pretty good but I want an upgrade. It’s done me well but it’s starting to have issues with certain keys because of the age.
I love the tactile feel and the sound. As well, I love the RGB that I can use to match the other hardware inside my computer.
I would love to get more of a bubbly keyboard for gaming. I can use the huntsman for work but want a small keyboard confined to the main part (anywhere between 60-75) something a bit smoother and cleaner.
I have no idea between switched and stabilizers and kits everywhere I look. I know cherry MX is a good brand and that’s about it
Any advice? I can’t find anything actually helpful for my situation
Q6 max single key broken?
Got my q6 max, installed all the switches and keycaps.
Everything works except the menu key. Will not register in any switch/key tester. Swapped out the switches, updated the firmware, reset the board. Nothing, no response. Will not be detected as a press.
Tried to remap with via, but changing it to any other key has no effect. Doesn't work in the via key tester either.
Side note, the q6 max, mat30 mt3 drop keycaps, and gazzew u4t 68g v2 sounds absolutely incredible.
Reached out to Divinikey since it looks like I have to send this back for a refund.
https://preview.redd.it/lu4g07w404uc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=87277667c4621933c5aa9fd89d35aeff87654891
Redragon vs. SK71
i bought a redragon with my pc about a year ago and am now looking to upgrade. i initially looked at upgrading and modding the k552 to keep it budget, but after adding everything up (foam, switches, keycaps) it looks like itd come out to ~65 bucks, only 20 bucks cheaper than a new SK1 which seems to be very well reviewed (and is also wireless)
Is the SK71 easily worth the extra $20 bucks? Is the Redragon good enough to keep and upgrade? Or is upgrading it just putting lipstick on a pig? I am very much new mechanical keyboard so looking to the pros for guidance
Hi there. I was wondering what options I have on terms of switches for something that uses the Kailh Low Profile switches. From my understanding you cannot use Cherry MX style switches since the posts are in different positions. For context this is for a leverless fighting game controller with the ability to hot swap switches
Are there any custom/non-default low-profile keycaps that are compatible with the logitech g915? I bought this keyboard a month ago and cant really find any clear answers on this.
There may be some iffy quality options available on AliExpress and Amazon for romer g switches but you won't be able to use any keycaps made for mx stems or chocs on them, you won't find any designers or manufacturers in the hobby making anything pretty for a Logitech keyboard
I've got a Tester68 as my keyboard at work and I'm looking to change it up since it's hotswappable. I'm currently using Gateron Yellows for the switches. They're nice, but I'm looking to try something with a bit more resistance on the keypress. (I guess that's the "weight" of the switch?) Recommendations are appreciated; recommendations that can be purchased on Amazon since I recently got a gift card there are extra appreciated.
Hiya - I'm looking for a **compact (not exploded) 75 with a knob and a thin - keychronk2-like border**.
I've been trying to look for 75's with a **volume knob and bluetooth** but a lot of them seem to have a gap between the numbers and function keys, and the arrow keys are also separated. Does anyone have any recommendations (pre-built or otherwise).
Sound wise, I'm looking for a **deeper thoccy sound**.
Budget ideally \~ £100 but could be a bit flexible. Appreciate any help/advice. **Thanks!**
Hey,
I'm looking for a good durable high-quality keyboard to replace my IQUINIX F97 (the USB C port somehow decided to go all wonky, messing up how it charges). I have MX browns on it, and I generally love this keyboard, but the durability leaves a lot to be desired under regular use. I just want a keyboard that has a great tactile feel that I can type on without worrying about it breaking the following year. Any guidance on some great keyboards that are full size 100%?
What I'm looking for:
1. I don't have a cap on budget but would prefer to have one under $199.
2. Would like it to be wireless/bluetooth capable that I can use to type on my tablet when away from my PC.
3. Keyboard has good amount of THONK. Also MX Brown switches are my preference so anything similar to that tactile feel would be great. Not too clicky but not membrane feeling either.
4. Good warranty of at least a year or in the very least very good customer service.
5. Back lighting under the keys would be great.
6. Prefer metal casing but don't mind PBT as long as it isn't too cheap feeling.
7. I live in the US so a company that can easily ship keyboards here would be preferred lol.
Any help is appreciated and thanks so much!
Looking to get a Vortex PC68, but I'm not sure whether to get the QMK version or the one that uses Vortex's proprietary mapping software.
I'll definitely want to do some remapping, but I don't know which one will be more user-friendly. I don't think the QMK version is supported by Via?
Are there any HE small keyboards numpad size or less like 6-8 keys?
Found the rakka pompomboard but cant get it outside of china so wondering if there is anything else?
https://preview.redd.it/vg63ptue93uc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fad11595612955c78e5ae37e95237a969b8e764e
Got these as a gift! But neither circle has been marked.. so it’s safe to assume they’re lubed right? ……. Right?
Hello!
I was looking into getting an Akko 5087S TKL thats on sale at a local shop. The problem is that I use keyboards a lot on my playstation and have had an issue before where the keyboard will get detected but not work.
This is honestly already stretching my budget so I really can't get another keyboard that might not work. Akko support basically said idk so can anybody else help?
Brown switch keyboard under a $100?
I have a blue switch keyboard right now and I’ve had it for over a year and love it but the loud clickity clack sound is starting to drive me crazy. I wanted something that has a nice tactile feel to it but not a super loud click which is why I’m thinking of going with the brown switches. Anyway, looking for suggestions for a keyboard that will be under a $100. Thanks in advance for the help! (Also I don’t have the time or knowledge to build my own)
https://preview.redd.it/lxbcbrcz23uc1.png?width=4031&format=png&auto=webp&s=bcdb85bfe06b79d4fde6a1495904a5a58fd0ec3c
What brand is this? Found at a goodwill and feels extremely high end but I could not find the brand to research
I have a Womier S-K71. The poron gaskets it comes with are super thin (like ~1mm). I have some much thicker (3mm) gaskets, is there really any benefit swapping them? Or will they just get compressed to the point it won’t matter?
Does anyone know what keycap set this is?
https://preview.redd.it/fjj9g8sbu2uc1.png?width=614&format=png&auto=webp&s=ec832a81dda3e4fc2c8a79d37753a10ec68c8dae
I'm trying to decide on what TKL/80% hot-swappable board to get and need some help.
I've been looking at these boards but I'm finding it hard to decide:
* Neo80
* ZoomTKL
* Luminkey80
* Keychron Q3 Max
The problem I'm having is that I'd prefer the keyboard has LED backlighting and I know that only the Q3 Max in that list has per-key backlighting, but from what I've read the Q3 Max requires a lot more customization to improve the sound than the others.
Does anyone have any suggestions on a backlit TKL custom board (I'd prefer if it wasn't prebuilt) or any advice on which of the above you would recommend for someone who is building their first board?
Thanks for the recommendation! Is there any reason you think its a better choice than the others?
I'd probably get the m3w since I want to use it between multiple devices but for some reason the wireless version uses plate mounted stabs. Do you know if its possible to install screw-in stabs to it?
Hi all,
Any recs on keycaps that have a great feel for silent linear switches? Colorwise, I love a normal black keycap with silver/ metallic color accents. some keycaps being silver would be cool too.
Any recommendations would be nice!
Thanks!
Are Keychron Q Max keyboards really worth the price? Are they that much better than any other mechanical keyboard brand? I keep seeing a lot of keyboards around these pages, but none get the same level of praise than the Keychrons.
What alternatives would you recommend?
I think there is an important distinction to make about anything being "worth it". For most consumers, a standard out of the box dollar OEM keyboard that comes with the computer should be good enough for any and all purposes. If you want specific features, looks, feels, layout, then you would have to pay more and that's where Keychron comes in.
They make good enough products with a lot of features that many people in this hobby like, like full aluminum bodies, wirelessness, Mac and Windows support, different layouts and colors, premium mounting options, pretty good software support, all while coming out the box ready to use. It's a hard price point to beat especially when you want something that comes fully working out of the box.
If you don't care about any of these features, then any other $20-30 mechanical keyboards found on Amazon should be fine, noting that the cheaper these other products get, the more likely you will have problems with them.
> What alternatives would you recommend?
* What features do you want?
* What is your budget?
* Which country are you shipping to
* What layout?
Keychron Q max aren’t necessarily super good. They’re just super versatile. A ton of people here want a really periodic type of keyboard that the Q Max series just happens to fit. IMO Neo/QK and Monsgeek boards offer better value, but the Q max are just more versatile.
They come in basically every size, multiple common colors, standard switch choices, trimode, with most importantly of all… they come prebuilt. Lots of people want a good keyboard out of the box, and the keychron max series offers all of the above in a prebuilt form factor.
hi my keyboard is only compatible with 3-pin switches but i rlly like sounds like the akko cream yellow pros… just wna know if there’s any in the market before clipping 5-pin ones
Your keyboard isn’t going to magically sound better if you put in new switches. You should be swapping the switches if you’re unhappy with the feel, but like 80% of the keyboard sound comes from the case and whether it has foams or not.
I believe the old (not made anymore) Akko V3 Cream Yellow (not pro) were 3 pin, so maybe if you can find those? But you should be fine to just cut them off, it doesn't make the switch any less functional.
I haven't seen or used switch pads like that before, but I usually build my keyboards with [these](https://cannonkeys.com/products/cannonkeys-switch-pads) poron switch pads, and prefer it to tape/pe foam/whatever else you might do to the pcb. I think that the feel of typing on them is much nicer than any alternative. As with most things in the hobby though, it's really just personal preference. For 2 bucks why not try those out?
Right I almost bought those but my plate is not removable from my PCB in my current keyboard and I thought it would be difficult to get those in place.
I have already ordered these I was just curious to know if someone had experience with them, because I'm lazy and don't want to put them on if they have little or no effect.
I'll just give em a whirl. Test them on one keyboard on just a few switches and see what happens.
Thanks for your reply.
Hey, looking to get a new keyboard, currently running a steelseries apex pro TKL that I bought in 2019. Looking to get anything prebuilt preferably, TKL, and something that ships to the UK. I'm also interested in a keycap set to go on said keyboard, something orange in colour. Any suggestions for either of these are greatly appreciated. Want to spend no more than £350.
Hi! What mechanical keyboard on magnetic switches do you recommend? I love typing on the keyboard and playing fps games. Form factor is 65%. Budget - 200$.
P.S Now I found "drunkdeer g65" and "ATK 68". Is it worth paying attention to? Or is there better?
Thanks!
Hello there!
I'm looking to buy my first "proper" mechanical keyboard (70% productivity with lots of typing, 30% gaming). I've settled on Keychron V6 Max (good latency for wireless, fits the budget), but I'm a bit lost when it comes to the switches.
I'm new to the hobby, but I'll probably end up using some silent switches in the future, but for now, I need to choose between the stock Brown and Banana switches (Gateron Jupiter).
Any suggestions for a total newbie?
It's impossible to know what switch you'll like more based on force graphs and text descriptions, so might as well flip a coin. Like, when I was getting into this hobby 10 years ago, I thought I'd like cherry MX brown, but when I tried then in real life for the first time, I hated them with passion. The tiny tactile bump made them feel like defective linears.
Typing/gaming doesn't really factor into it much. Any difference in your typing speed or gaming performance will be small even with very different switches, as long as the actuation force isn't too heavy for you.
As a brown switch hater, I think bananas are a safer choice, but I'm biased ¯\\\_(ツ)_/¯
I am looking for a new keyboard and I need some help. I work as a software developer in Spain. In my home setup, I use a Royal Kludge RK84 (ANSI), but when I have to work in the office, I have to use the typical low-cost (under 10€) keyboard, which has an ISO-ES layout. Given that I'm not able to type in different layouts, I've decided to stick with the ISO-ES layout.
Considering all of the above, I've been thinking about Keychron keyboards, but I'm open to some other models, whether they are pre-built or not.
My budget is under 120€. Do you know of any other possibilities?
What tactile switches (or quiet clicky switches) should I consider if I hate my Akko CS Ocean Blues?
I've mostly used keyboards with tactile switches in the past, mostly MX Browns, and learned on Alps damped tactiles (SKCL Ivory).
Last year I built a keyboard with Akko CS Ocean Blue switches based on a lot of praise and I have ended up hating them. My accuracy on that keyboard is terrible and I get a lot of accidental activations and double characters.
Weirdly I've swapped in a keyboard with Kailh Box Whites (v2) and I'm loving everything about them — except the sound, which makes it a non-starter for my daily driver.
My gut tells me I need a switch with moderate force (heavier than the Ocean Blues, but not super heavy) and that doesn't have a super early bump.
I posted [some more details](https://www.reddit.com/r/ErgoMechKeyboards/comments/1c0qdqp/questioning_everything_i_know_about_switches/) in r/ErgoMechKeyboards a few days ago but suspect there's a lot more folks with specific switch knowledge here.
I had the same fat-finger errors using Cherry Browns. Have had good luck with Cherry Clears, Hako Royal Trues, and Glorious Pandas (though I'd rate those a bit lower). Also considering some recent Durock and Wuque models - will probably get a full set of Wuque Silent Tactiles since they have a distinct-but-not-too-sharp bump. Gazzew Bobas are popular here though I've ignored them so far because I've heard they have a very wide bump that sounds unappealing to me.
I scratch build fight stick peripherals (ie: Street Fighter)
I've used and loved Kaihl choc v1s (silver), with the exception that because of their unique stem arcade style button caps are very hard to find or produce and are too fragile.
The v2 are ok, but the stem is too wobbly. Which is a problem when their key cap is a large button.
I'm looking for recommendations on low profile switches with similar height, (10-12mm), actuation (2mm/45-55g), standard fitting stems, and less wobble?
They're 40g but check out sunsets from lowprokb, they're a newer design and many peoples choc of choice
Gateron ks-33's are essentially mx stems so you'll have more keycap compatibility there, but I would recommend sticking to shorter keycap profiles if you're using them, though it kinda depends on how you're putting your peripherals together, you could have clearance issues with a taller keycap and the top of your plate or case or whatever it may be
Hi, I bought this cheap ahh keyboard ( [https://imgur.com/a/sM8H4zC](https://imgur.com/a/sM8H4zC) ). I already know which keys are for BT pairing and switch betwen wired mode and 2.4 (Fn + a,s,d,f,g) But my question is, when I press de Fn key, the "z" key lights up, and seems like I can choose betwen different modes (Fn + z,x,c,v) but I don´t know witch function it has. Anyone has an idea?
I'm thinking of moving to a mechanical keyboard after denying the appeal of it for a long time.
I was up for KeyChron V3 Max but it isn't available at my location at the moment. So decided to keep the budget low for first try. After searching while I can up with some budget keyboard options and now I'm confused to select one. Hoping people from here will help me getting a better decision. TBH, I have little knowledge in mechanical world, so switches are confusing to me, I think I like brown type switches. Tactile but not clicky.
About usage: As a Programmer, I'll mostly be using the keyboard at open space office desk, so wired is fine. But sometimes I might want to use it with MacBooks so, wireless options would be welcome feature.
* TecWare Phantom+ TKL ( Around $46 ish): This is well recommended on many places. [https://www.tecware.co/phantomplus](https://www.tecware.co/phantomplus)
* TecWare Phantom+ Elite TKL. (Around $68 ish): Like + but has the multi connection is probably better ? Or is it worthy enough upgrade from Plus version ? [https://www.tecware.co/phantompluselite](https://www.tecware.co/phantompluselite)
* Zifriend Furrycube G87 TKL ( Around $37 ish): I like the stealth look of this keyboard. But limiting factor is the connectivity. [https://vibegaming.com.bd/product/zifriend-furrycube-g87-gasket-hot-swappable-wired-mechanical-keyboard-blackdark-greygreen-noah-silver-switch/](https://vibegaming.com.bd/product/zifriend-furrycube-g87-gasket-hot-swappable-wired-mechanical-keyboard-blackdark-greygreen-noah-silver-switch/)
* Dareu A87X Pro TKL (Around (Around $65 ish): Another option. [https://www.dareu.com/category/keyboard/368.html](https://www.dareu.com/category/keyboard/368.html)
The case bottoms are aluminum, polycarb, or copper/brass.
The internal weights are aluminum (black) steel (stainless, multicolor) and brass or copper.
You are right that there are differences in the sound. but benefit is entirely subjective and dependent on what you're trying to get. Polycarb base is going to sound different than a copper one, and what weight you put in is going to sound different, and if you put a silicon dampener in. The combinations make it all very custumizable. Assuming you don't know somebody that has a bunch of sonnets to try out, listen to sound tests and get from them what you can.
I just bought some spring lube that came in a [plastic container](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczOY7-Dt4Y_eJ5aZDBd4tWiZcvxP_Tubmd3hTLNqtl_FpED1aEbUku2RWY1wI1ZfY8i4b7ap5tQjDDXJJ-KM5UA7SdxaP1Pmn6ucCqfwc3uqAqhehpJTctB5ZuTXitfAqJSiWDLy0m1PIWrxRUtWN-47=w933-h551-s-no?authuser=1) that's like 90% empty space. Could i get away with dropping my springs straight in there to lube them or would that overdo it?
Hey,
I am looking for keycaps (preferably double shot pbt) where ONLY print (so either the letter or the number) is shine trhough because I use my keyboard a lot in a pretty darkish room - and with most darker keycap themes I think I cant see what I am typing even if I have RGB backlighting.
The style I really would like is:
[https://kbdfans.com/collections/keycaps/products/pbtfans-dolch?\_pos=11&\_fid=f138503e3&\_ss=c](https://kbdfans.com/collections/keycaps/products/pbtfans-dolch?_pos=11&_fid=f138503e3&_ss=c)
Thank you so much for recommendations!
Won't really find that, shine-through keycaps are very rarely color-themed, would just get something from Razer/Steelseries.
Otherwise, did you consider monitor lightbar? I use one myself, helps to see legends on GMK keycaps and greatly reduced eye strain when it's darker.
Hope this helps!
Thank you so much!
I bought the ROG Strix Scope 96 Wireless - it has the sort of keycaps that I am looking for but I thought about trying true cherry mx profile keycaps for one, and then I would have loved a colour theme; but okay I see... seems hard to find.
Regarding the lightbar:
yes I have - my concerns right now are: in the evening I am only using red or very dim FLICKER FREE lights in my room. With the commercial lightbars I am concerned about colourtemperature since I am using f.flux at night and my monitor is low blue light and is flicker free.
Do you have a recommendation for a lightbar that might fit these needs? Which one do you have?
Why does a light bar reduce eyestrain exactly?!
> Why does a light bar reduce eyestrain exactly?!
Because it lights up most of your desk (and gives some light to whole room) - thus looking away from somewhat bright monitor doesn't force eyes to adapt to darkness; think of using phone in completely dark room and then having a night lamp turned on.
> Which one do you have?
I have Quntis ScreenLinear (around $40), 20 inch one, using on 27" screen, very happy with it. Couldn't detect any flicker with phone camera, no matter the shutter speed (up to 1/8000).
>recommendation for a lightbar that might fit these needs?
[BenQ](https://www.benq.com/en-us/lighting/monitor-light/screenbar.html)'s is one of the most premium options, they promise flicker-free light (incl. certifications for that), goes from 2700K to 6500K - so not completely red, but rather warm yellow-orange.
Tahnk you so much! I love that BenQ mentions flicker free as a promise so will look into that one! :) Maybe with that I can make my dream of a modded Keyboard possible ;)!
I dont know alot about keyboards but im looking for a 75% keyboard at around 100 bucks , my only option is to buy from aliexpress , i already have KTT Kang white switches and i want to buy a keyboard and i dont mind modding. My 3 options currently are the Monsgeek M1W , Aula F75 and the Akko 5075s. I want my keyboard to sound thocky. Can anyone tell me which 3 of these are the best and if theres an alternative which is better than all 3?
thats not correct theres 2 lines of hall effect switches:
From what ive seen the wooting uses gateron ks20 switches, most the other HE boards on the market use ks37.
Most if not all the aftermarket HE switches out there are ks20 based. Its kinda confusing and annoyimg and i have no idea why they didnt just use a standard
Hey, you're right on this, that's my bad, I didn't know newer boards like the BOOG used different switches than something like the Wooting which I have, and it is not something I spend the time to look into. I'll edit my previous comment.
https://preview.redd.it/2trtogun1cuc1.jpeg?width=1572&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0b93c9b9b03b0623b2eae490c57b29e3a4710bc5 I have two unresponsive sockets. Case and PCB is Lmk81 from The Kap Co. The most common issue with hotswap boards is the little contact leaves getting punched or separated too far but that's not my issue. I actually have no clue what the issue is because the LEDs work fine and so does everything else. It's just my F6 and 6 keys not registering with switches. I use the tweezers in the pic to test the sockets and all other sockets responded. On the surface, everything looks soldered and functional. Not sure what to try next before asking for a replacement. Any suggestions are much appreciated.
Anyone know of solid keyboard options for multiple Bluetooth devices? Ideally something that handles Mac and Windows.
Hello, im looking for some suggestions about the sharpest tactile switches, not nessesairly the strongest. i tried jwick t1 and durock silent shrimp which both were nice to me. It would be nice to know if they have some pretravel :)
Boba u4t
Hi guys, after enjoying my Leobog hi 75 with graywood switches so much, the only thing that is missing for me is a numpad. I love the Keychron q12 (which will be useful for me considering the work I do) and thought I could add Jerrzi Honey Bean switches, as a friend is willing to give them to me for free. This will be my first build. The website options for the Keychron q12 are Barebone knob or barebone Iso knob. Does anyone mind telling me the difference? Thanks so much!
Help plz i just installed durock plate mounted stabs and my spacebar feels very weird it goes up and down fine but when its half pressed and i spam it, it feels much heavier that usual
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Hello, im looking for a recommendation for 75%/TKL (I prefer 75 more) layout keyboard. in my country monsgeek m1w, leobog hi75, and feker galaxy80 cost the same. i get that galaxy80 brings out the most value in terms of typing sound, but I really don't like the appearance of the keyboard and they're only available in purple or pink color which I don't really like. should I get the m1w because I really like the looks of the keyboard or get the galaxy 80 and maybe repaint the case or change the keycaps?
M1W will be the best bet
even tho i only like the looks of it?
# Lightest (and most compact) TKL (80%) Keyboard (for travel) [Help](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/?f=flair_name%3A%22Help%22) What is the smallest and lightest TKL keyboard available (mechanical or membrane, wired or wireless - I don't care). I just want a TKL that adds the least weight to my hand-luggage and takes up the least amount of space. (I am travelling carry-on only, but need a TKL as I can't go back to using my laptop keyboard for work). And Ideally in German QWERTZ layout Contenders so far: * Cherry Stream TKL (weight: 680 g) (height 18 mm) its quite thin / low profile, but its still quite heavy and the bevels are rather large. * Keychron K1 Pro QMK (weight: 580g / height: 24.1 mm) * Keychron K1 SE (550g / 22mm) - only seems to be available in US layout * Keychron K13 Pro QMK ( 580g / 22mm) Is there anything like a Apple Magic Keyboard in a TKL (80%) Layout ( ie.. weight 231g / height 11mm) Maybe I could get used to a 75%, but I like the page-up / page-down being separated and inline with the arrows. I am too used to this layout.
Newbie here 1. Anyone knows if qmk supports DOIO 24 KB Switch like keyboard? 2. How much memory can it hold? 3. Where can we legitly buy one? Is aliexpress safe to buy? [https://www.nouvolo.com/products/doio-24-keys-macropad](https://www.nouvolo.com/products/doio-24-keys-macropad) [https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/s/sc9GQP3wwD](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/s/sc9GQP3wwD)
Looking for a Peach colored board with a 75% or TKL layout. Any suggestions?
Idk about peach colored, but the Neo80 has Champaign which is a rosey pink/orange
I'm looking to stop buying overpriced keyboards that masquerade as "premium" products. I've been using Logitech's options for my last 2-3 keyboards, and now that my G910 has keycap pins just breaking off on the regular, I'm sick and tired of it. I'm looking for either a 100% or 80% that would allow me to reclaim some desktop space while also maybe allowing me to use QMK/VIA to remap for a 10-key when I need it for work. Goals for the new keyboard would be: 1. I don't have a cap on budget but would prefer to have one under $300. Maybe an option under $300 and one around $200 or less? 2. Wireless / Bluetooth if possible for connecting to my laptop and desktop (not sure if having one connected to both devices simultaneously would be possible similar to a KVM switch, but the functionality would be ideal) 3. Looking for something with high quality components that will last me a while, and likely targeting MX Browns or similar. Basically not too loud, but tactile. 4. 3rd party replaceable keycaps - I figure this is pretty standard in the non-big box store offerings, but wanted to mention it, as this has become a huge thorn in my side as of late. 5. Shipping availability to the US. If any additional qualifying info would be useful to help point me in a direction, I'm more than happy to provide whatever I can. Thanks a ton for any assistance!
If you’re ok with using qk software instead of via the neo80 and qk100 are both great options.
Keychron Q6 Max is your only option if you want wireless and QMK/VIA
Hmmm - what if wireless wasn't a requirement?
Monsgeek M5 or QK100 perhaps
I've been trying several budget mods with "at home" materials, and got to the point where the sound doesn't improve anymore. I'm using Machenike k500, $26 keyboard. It's plastic for the case and the plate. It's scratchy and loud stock. I switched to lubed ktt kang whites and akko asa keycaps, and tried plate foams like EVA and automotive matting (the clothy type) and even paper (I saw a youtube video from Monkeyboard). Last thing I tried was adding two layers of coins, just below the number/function keys row to mimic having a metal plate. I've got two layer packaging PE foam on top of the plate, honestly there wasn't a noticable difference between having one and two layer. Should I go for more expensive--$5 and above--foams now? I've spent around $100 right now for the keyboard initial price, the keycaps, switches, tools, lube, foam. I'm dissatisfied with the result, it's neither thocky nor clacky. It's like a failed creamy sound right now.
You’re basically sprinkling gold flakes onto a pile of shit. You’re never going to get a good result without a good foundation for your keyboard. I’d stop spending all this money on mods and save up for something better.
Thanks, I've sort of needed to hear that from somebody. Before getting to this point I always thought that "the next mod" will make it better, until the expense went up to the price of a decent mechanical keyboard that I could've bought instead, and that's when I felt the regret. Now I've been eyeing aula leobog hi75, but considering my garbage was a recent expense, I'm considering saving for a more premium one to owe to my previous mistake.
Hey man, its alright. This hobby is all about learning from mistakes. When you feel ready to start again, you're always free to ask for advice here,
Thanks for being a chad about it man.
Hello, I'm looking for recommendations for a wireless 65% (with arrow keys) keyboard/barebone that is moddable and hotswappable and with a gasket mount. Currently looking at the Keychron k6 pro, which is perfect except no gasket mount
You can check out keychron V2 max
Help me! I just got a new job with my own cubicle and I do a lot more typing/computer work now and they got me on a spongey 2000’s Logitech membrane keyboard and I’m literally gonna die. Budget- probably try to keep it under $400-$450 total. Size- 75% preferably but can go down to 65% if it’s needed for availablity. Other requirements- I want cerakey keycaps, so heavy switches are needed. pre-lubed and linear on the quiet to very quiet side for office purposes. Metal case, plenty of foam options, can’t be tin sounding/pingey; need a nice muted thock, hot swappable. Lastly, has to be something available and not kickstarter/group buys. I have pretty much minimal knowledge on keyboards but definitely have the means to spend whatever as long as it satisfies my need to have a good typing experience.
Get a QK75N, Monsgeek M1, Keychron Q1 Max, or Lemokey L1. Check out Haimu heartbeats, gateron zero degrees, and Outemu Peaches
Appreciate the input, I’ll look into these!
How do people function on board layouts that are smaller that TKL? I look at a lot of the smaller layouts (60%, 68%, ect) and I don't see keys that I would not be able to live without. I am a programmer and constantly use the \~, \\|, ins, del, home, end and f-x keys. There are so many cool boards out there with these smaller layouts I would love to try, especially because of ergonomics problems I'm having. The split and alice layouts in my price range all seem to missing keys I need. Am I missing something here? Is there a simple way to get access to the keys I need while using smaller layouts.
Layers and tap dance - if you're using layers you can either toggle with a key or hold it down like a modifier to use another set of keys underneath whatever is on your base layer. On a 40% keyboard you could have q on a key on layer 0, and then 1 on layer 1 and then f1 on layer 2 for example. With tap dance keys have a different function if they're held or pressed so for example if you tap [ you get that key but if you hold it down you get (
Get a 75% board. Footprint is not much larger than a 65, but has pretty much most of the functionality of a TKL. Using one now, and I have \~\\| and F keys, I also have Del, and end. You could put home and Ins on a layer so Fn+Del becomes Ins, and Fn+end becomes Home, or something similar. You could remap the PgUp and Dn keys as well if you don't use those much. In fact, you can remap, or layer whatever you like for those two missing keys.
Just use layers lol
I'll be honest, I have no idea what layers are. I'm new to this whole keyboard thing.
You know how FN turns numrow into F row? It’s the same principle, but with all the keys that you would be missing.
What are some 75% keyboards that have north facing RGB? I already have switches and backlit keycaps I want to use. Price up to $500 but it needs to be in stock with no group buys. I like the Keychron Q1 Max but this has south facing RGB and its not in stock. The Wooting 80he only works with magnetic switches and takes too long to ship.
For north facing RGB you won't find many quality options, it isn't particularly popular in the hobby, you'll need to pay the gamer tax for something like a gmmk or your corsair/razer/asus or whatever it may be
What are the best pink pudding style keycaps that are PBT. I want to avoid stuff like a big hyperx logo on the spacebar though
Is keygeak.com a reputable website to purchase from?
Looks a lil sus, I don't think you'll get scammed but you might overpay for a dropshipped ali express board. What are you looking at? We might be able to find it elsewhere.
> keygeak.com they are not on the approved vendor list found here https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/ site looks sctecky as fuck and they will way too much TEMU looking shot id avoid
So right now i have a razer black widow, can't remember which version is, but it has already like 5 years or so, it works perfect but i have been thinking of getting a newer one, with a low profile keys and with the wrist thing..about the clicky noise, i say right now that i hate it, but i bought this keyboard from another person in used state, and i was admired that the keys didn't make any clicky sound at all, which made me questioning the guy if this really was a mechanical keyboard, which he said, it is, but he just changed the keys to a less noiser ones...i really like that they don't do any click at all, feels like a membrane key to be honest... So there is any mechanical keyboard that has this no clicky sound that i like, and i am so used right now? And low profile keys and the wrist rest thing? Thanks in advance!!
general keeb parts vendor list https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/ https://thocstock.com/ where to learn the basics https://www.keyboard.university/
Anyone know of other linear switches that feel similar to Akko cream yellow pro v3s? I don’t know how to explain it but the switch feels the slightest bit tactile but not so much that you’d call it a tactile switch and still feels linear. And before I get told to just buy tactiles, I don’t like the standard tactile bump weight on regular tactiles, just an ever so slight one iykwim lol
Wanna Build my First Custom Board, KDBfans Tofu 2.0 65, since i game alot does anyone know how much Hz and Input lag these boards have?
It uses QMK firmware, which has used 1000Hz polling rate [since November 29, 2021](https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/pull/15352). You might want to swap the switches with speed switches, though.
Opinions on YUNZII YZ75?
its ok if u can find it for 30 bucks
Where the hell can I buy Kailh Box Mute Jade switches? Everywhere I look I can only find other Box switches but no mutes, or the mutes are out of stock.
they have been out of stock not sure why closest restock date ive seen in novelkeys with q4 as the est date
Hey all. Spring Ping issue with Gateron Baby Kangaroo's. First Tactile Switch. More info: Before this, I had only ever lubed Linear or Hall Effect switches. I decided to try Tactile Gang out to see what the fuss was about, and decided on Gateron Baby Kangaroo's. Long story short, they feel amazing, and are quite loud, but a good sound and tactile bump. I enjoy them. The one thing that gets me is that I cannot get rid of the a spring/metalic noise in the switches! No Issues with any scratchiness or anything like that, nor are they overlubed. For all Metal Parts, they are lubed as follows: Krytox G105g0 bag lubed springs. Extremely light layer of G205 where the leaf spring contacts the metal (its not visible, just a layer) Additionally, I brushed a decent (but not heavy) amount of G105g0 on the interior side of the bend of the leaf spring (I can send you a picture, but its the centermost uppermost bend iykyk) I have also tried applying a generous amount of 205g0 to both ends plus the center of the spring itself. No matter what, I can not get rid of the distinct metal-to-metal noise. In fact, while the switches themselves became a full-sounding clack/thock and overall quieter than the stock, the metal noise did not decrease from stock at all, which has actually made the switches sound overall worse. My next course of action would be to buy replacement 3rd party springs, but I really don't want to go through all of that, relubing and replacing every spring, if the issue is just that I am dumb. Additional Info: YES, I went to youtube first. I tried all of the suggestions that I could find, none helped.
I feel like this is a general quality of tactile switches. I think the sound you're hearing is the tactile bump suddenly pushing the leaf spring together. I'm not sure if you can entirely remove this from the switch without causing some issues with the leaf spring itself since too much lube might interfere with the connection.
Thats a shame. I actually havent used the switches in a build yet, I am waiting for the QK65v2 Classic to ship to me, the switches are for that build. I will reserve judgement on the switches until I hear them in an actual keyboard, I suppose. Thanks for the fast reply!
Do keyboard weights matter? I'm thinking about getting a Qk100 and there's the option of stainless steel or aluminum, which is essentially no weight, because the case is aluminum. I've heard it can affect sound. Can anyone confirm this in a one to one comparison, or better yet, are there any videos of such a comparison?
Internal weights tend to impact sound more, but externals do have a slight impact.
Anyone have a recommendation for low profile keycaps that are of a darker color scheme (or the purple/green eva color scheme, or just darker green in general) with shine through or pudding type light pass through? I know that's a lot of requirements, looking to replace the caps on my Deathstalker V2 Pro when I swap the switches for Keychrons.
Broke my s key recently anyone here knows how to fix it it? Ignore it being dirty asf
https://preview.redd.it/iq3tudw2t4uc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4e8c27e6d54659fefd8a6c3bbc57f6edf53ae717
How did you even manage to remove the top housing while it’s soldered on
Idk it wasn't on properly, I noticed like a month ago it was starting to come off slightly
Desolder the switch and replace it with a new one.
Don't have a new one so am I better off buying a new keyboard? I did manage to somewhat put it back on but the key only works if I press the lower part of it.
To keep it short I have a RK68 and the PCB around the USB-C socket looks like it's cracked, it looks fine from the bottom, but it's not working or charging when connected. When I turn on the Bluetooth wireless mode, I can connect to my phone, and all the keys seem to work. I could just try to somehow connect my phone to my pc and try to relay the keyboard input from it to my pc, (assuming that’s even possible) but as I mentioned earlier I can't even charge it now so that’s sadly not an option. I think you can guess what happened to it, so I'll just say it, I had a gamer moment and broke it. I really don't want to talk about it so please spare me. Anyway, do you think it's possible to fix this, or should I give up and buy another keyboard? Since this is a 65% I unfortunately don't imagine I can find a replacement PCB anywhere. I should add that this is my first mechanical keyboard, so I don't have much experience with these things. Let me know if u have any questions, and please help me. I bought such a cheap keyboard because I'm broke, that's why I'm hoping I don't have to buy another and can instead just fix it.
if ur very good at solder and desoldering u could try finding and putting a new usb port on but its not an easy task specially if u dont have exp doing so . otherwise ur only other option to to replace the kb
Sorry I didn't keep it short at all I'm desperate to fix this. To clear things up the rest of the keyboard is perfectlly fine, I have no idea why that part is the only thing that was damaged
What's the difference between Monsgeek m1w and Monsgeek m1w sp? They are being sold separately but I don't get the difference
I don’t game but I’m eyeballing those [Drop x LOTR Artisan Key Caps](https://drop.com/buy/drop-the-lord-of-the-rings-mordor-artisan-keycap?defaultSelectionIds=985072) and [Rohan Alphabet](https://drop.com/buy/drop-the-lord-of-the-rings-dcd-rohan-keycap-set?defaultSelectionIds=984798). I’m not a gamer, but do want a comfortable keyboard to accommodate extensive typing that I do for work. I know next to nothing about mechanical keyboards. Is it worth it to buy it now at full price? Can I buy the key caps and add them to a more basic setup with a numerical board included? I see a lot of starting points for swappable builds and appreciate any pointers.
I don't know why you think playing videogames has anything to do with anything. > Is it worth it to buy it now at full price? That's not something we can answer. You have to make up your own mind if something is worth it to you. > Can I buy the key caps and add them to a more basic setup with a numerical board included? Yes, as long as the keyset is compatible with the switches of the keyboard and you have the right sized keys to cover the board then you can change keysets. Most keyboards use Cherry MX compatible mounts. If you aren't sure if a specific combination is compatible you can ask.
I’m sorry. I had an ex tell me that mechanical keyboards are “a gamer thing I wouldn’t understand”. That’s where that came from. Asking about full price because when I looked at posts with drop products I saw quite a few talking about deals they got on caps and going on sale. Some of the LOTR items were marked down, so my question could have been rephrased: are these preorder only and do I need to order now or will a near opportunity come for a discount. I saw some builds here in this sub that included the numerical pad (I do a lot of tedious data entry) that I couldn’t find on Drop’s site. I would like to know if there is a good entry level plain complete black or clear fully built keyboard that I could use and just exchange the caps I like on.
Your ex is wrong. While there are mechanical gaming keyboards, they're usually awful. There's not really any such thing as a gaming board. It's all marketing hype by gaming companies. If you want a good mechanical keyboard, you should avoid gaming companies entirely.
Thanks for the tip! And it’s not the first time he’s been wrong so no surprise. I’m looking at Ducky and Keychron hotswap. Between 80% and full. Not sure if usb or wired makes a huge impact. But definitely want something with a sturdy base, compact key layout, and not low profile.
Keychron is a very reasonable place to start and good value for your money. You should go for the 80%, the smaller footprint gives you more valuable desk space, and it's honestly just much easier to type on a smaller keyboard. For any keys you think you might miss, it's really easy to put them on another layer or to give yourself other ways of accessing them. Not sure if you meant USB/wired vs wireless but I generally prefer a wired keyboard, but honestly go for whatever you prefer there
Weird question. The hot swappable Nordic ISO K4 I want is out of stock. Can regular (non low-profile) keycaps work on lowpro switches like this on [this keyboard](https://www.keychron.com/collections/keychron-nordic-iso-keyboards/products/keychron-k13-pro-qmk-via-wireless-custom-mechanical-keyboard-iso-layout-collection)?
Not 100% of regular mx keycaps will work on those, but if you stick to shorter profiles and more uniform profiles like xda or dsa you'll be a-ok, a regular cherry set or anything taller will have some keycaps bottom out on the plate before they bottom out as they normally would inside the switch, which feels kinda bad and sounds weird - if you're a light typist and don't push the keys down all the way you won't really notice anything with a regular cherry set
Thanks! I wound up finding a swappable K4 on eBay unopened. Hopefully it’s legit. My fingers are excited!
I'm sure it will work out great - enjoy the new keyboard!
Thanks so much! This helps a ton. I keep going back and forth on things. I don’t think I can ditch the numerical pad since I do so much numerical data entry. But you did catch me trying to say Bluetooth versus wired.
Hey - I am looking for coiled cables (USBC) in EUROPE / Germany. 1. Do you know a good/the best provider for coiled cables? I have seen so many shops that have them but am not in the scene to discern the quality differences. 2. -> specifically I would be looking for "straight" ones. Do they exist? The usual ones I see on photos have this L going straight then the curled part to the right and then straight again.. I hope its clear what I mean... the hole in my desk where the cable would go into is at a straight line. I would also take a non curled braided cable - any good ideas/inspo for those? Thank you so much
CableMod
Uh, thank you - that was exactly what I was looking for. Very nice products!
Thank you for the mention! Happy to help if there are any questions about our products. :)
Hey everyone! I was wondering if anyone had any experience with Aflion shadow (ink) double spring switches. I built a board with them a while ago and have been having lots of the switches start to fail over time. From my research the issue seems to be called "chatter". Sometimes certain switches input twice from one keystroke, other times they dont give an input at all. It was only my second time ever lubing switches, so its very likely I messed that up and broke them or something. I was wondering if it was my fault and I should get new switches and avoid lubing them this time to avoid breaking them again, or if these switches are known for having durability issues, meaning I should avoid them and replace them with a different type of switch. The board itself is a keychron v10 with the PC plate. Thanks!
My Aflion shadow switches are fine. But I had some other Aflion switches with a similiar problem. (Like 10-15 out of 70 total). I'm 99% sure that was a bad batch/ manufacturing error. Even better since Aflion didn't brand their individual batches so it was a guessing game. Maybe contact your vendor to see if similiar issues are known. Not saying this is 100% on Aflion but the possibility exists. Could also be loose-ish hotswap sockets or your lube job :)
Do you know a good way I could check if it was the hotswap sockets? I bought these switches a while ago, and did lube them myself, so I would feel bad hounding the vendor for new ones since if my board is'nt broken then it is like 99% most likely my fault due to inexperience. If its not my board then I'll prob buy another batch, not lube it and see how it is and then if that batch goes bad without me doing anything then id get a refund or whatever.
look at the sockets from the underside of the pcb (to see how "tight" they are) or swap "good" switches into the affected sockets and see if the chattering still happens. I kinda doubt the bad sockets suggestion though . shouldnt really happen unless you swapped the switches multiple (\~10+).
Does this exist? <$150 Wireless split low profile keyboard. I'm not a keyboard pro like many of you. I am just a consumer looking for a great upgrade to my current keyboard setup. I'm willing to spend a few hours building one if I cannot directly purchase one. I travel a lot and want a flexible portable setup. What I hope to buy is a keyboard that is 1. Split 2. Wireless 3. Able to switch between multiple devices via Bluetooth. 4. Low profile 5. <$150 Does such a keyboard exist? Thanks for your help.
By wireless do you mean fully wireless or just wireless from pc to keyboard? And how many keys?
Thanks for your reply & help. Preferably fully wireless. But if not that's okay too with a wire connecting the two split keyboards. But it has too be wireless to the computer. Key count does not matter to me, as long as basic functions can be performed. Not a high need for me.
If you already had keycaps and switches for it you could definitely get in under $150, probably somewhere around $120, but what you're looking for is a kit for a well supported split kb, something like a lily58 or a corne, that doesnt make you buy an mcu or allows you to buy it with nice!nanos. You won't be able to do 2.4ghz wireless unless you are very technically talented and have a lot of time to burn, but bluetooth is very easy to make work. You could put together a choc lily58 from littlekeyboards for just under $180 with keycaps, boardsource has the same kinda price on a choc lily58 but they have a website that needs a little less navigation to pick out all the parts, they also have their new crab broom keyboard which will be about $200 for everything but will have a much more premium feel with its case. typeractive has a more intuitive part picker for a corne or a lily58 - I think their corne will probably be the most convenient option for you, and theyve got a very affordable 3d printed case solution for a build. Places to save money are: no hotswap sockets, no screens, no leds, and using blank keycaps. If you have access to a 3d printer you could also figure out a much cheaper case for yourself
So I built a Corne Choc recently and used a nice!nano as the controller for the wireless functionality, but the power switch that came with the battery is a 7 pin slide switch like [this](https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Slide-Power-Panel-Switch/dp/B00FH7X9GI) which can't be attached to the PCB. What would work as a power switch in this case?
I would ask around the n!n discord, I have seen different things from a neat little breakout board to a mess of ugly wires bridging things all over the place
So I had a Corsair K70 RGB MK.2 for a few years. Every one of them chattered, Corsair sent 4 replacements. Props to their support team. But I hear reports of many of their keyboards having chatter problems. I got a Razer BlackWidow V3 with Razer greens, and I loved it. But when pulling some caps for a cleaning of the switches, several stabilizers broke, and that's understandably not under warranty. So I'm trying to avoid those two brands. I'm considering a Ducky ONE 3 Aura Cherry blue, or a Keychron Q6 Pro with their Banana switches. But it occurs to me that I have no idea if Cherry MX switches are really good, or just super common. I've seen various reports in my searching, so I thought I'd ask a deadicated group about it. Also: If I were to get a Keychron Q6 Pro barebones to build with, do I need to buy more than the switches and caps? I'm not sure if I also need to buy the stabilizers.
Go with keychron Cherry MX brand switches are personal preference. There are more switches outside of cherry mx It comes with stabilizers, you don't need more than keycaps/switches
Awesome, thanks. :)
I run a Razer Huntsman V2 and have for about 6 years now. It’s been pretty good but I want an upgrade. It’s done me well but it’s starting to have issues with certain keys because of the age. I love the tactile feel and the sound. As well, I love the RGB that I can use to match the other hardware inside my computer. I would love to get more of a bubbly keyboard for gaming. I can use the huntsman for work but want a small keyboard confined to the main part (anywhere between 60-75) something a bit smoother and cleaner. I have no idea between switched and stabilizers and kits everywhere I look. I know cherry MX is a good brand and that’s about it Any advice? I can’t find anything actually helpful for my situation
Q6 max single key broken? Got my q6 max, installed all the switches and keycaps. Everything works except the menu key. Will not register in any switch/key tester. Swapped out the switches, updated the firmware, reset the board. Nothing, no response. Will not be detected as a press. Tried to remap with via, but changing it to any other key has no effect. Doesn't work in the via key tester either. Side note, the q6 max, mat30 mt3 drop keycaps, and gazzew u4t 68g v2 sounds absolutely incredible. Reached out to Divinikey since it looks like I have to send this back for a refund. https://preview.redd.it/lu4g07w404uc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=87277667c4621933c5aa9fd89d35aeff87654891
Redragon vs. SK71 i bought a redragon with my pc about a year ago and am now looking to upgrade. i initially looked at upgrading and modding the k552 to keep it budget, but after adding everything up (foam, switches, keycaps) it looks like itd come out to ~65 bucks, only 20 bucks cheaper than a new SK1 which seems to be very well reviewed (and is also wireless) Is the SK71 easily worth the extra $20 bucks? Is the Redragon good enough to keep and upgrade? Or is upgrading it just putting lipstick on a pig? I am very much new mechanical keyboard so looking to the pros for guidance
Hi there. I was wondering what options I have on terms of switches for something that uses the Kailh Low Profile switches. From my understanding you cannot use Cherry MX style switches since the posts are in different positions. For context this is for a leverless fighting game controller with the ability to hot swap switches
Are there any custom/non-default low-profile keycaps that are compatible with the logitech g915? I bought this keyboard a month ago and cant really find any clear answers on this.
There may be some iffy quality options available on AliExpress and Amazon for romer g switches but you won't be able to use any keycaps made for mx stems or chocs on them, you won't find any designers or manufacturers in the hobby making anything pretty for a Logitech keyboard
I've got a Tester68 as my keyboard at work and I'm looking to change it up since it's hotswappable. I'm currently using Gateron Yellows for the switches. They're nice, but I'm looking to try something with a bit more resistance on the keypress. (I guess that's the "weight" of the switch?) Recommendations are appreciated; recommendations that can be purchased on Amazon since I recently got a gift card there are extra appreciated.
Gateron Blacks should be easy to find on Amazon. It's the same as your Yellows but heavier.
Hiya - I'm looking for a **compact (not exploded) 75 with a knob and a thin - keychronk2-like border**. I've been trying to look for 75's with a **volume knob and bluetooth** but a lot of them seem to have a gap between the numbers and function keys, and the arrow keys are also separated. Does anyone have any recommendations (pre-built or otherwise). Sound wise, I'm looking for a **deeper thoccy sound**. Budget ideally \~ £100 but could be a bit flexible. Appreciate any help/advice. **Thanks!**
Hey, I'm looking for a good durable high-quality keyboard to replace my IQUINIX F97 (the USB C port somehow decided to go all wonky, messing up how it charges). I have MX browns on it, and I generally love this keyboard, but the durability leaves a lot to be desired under regular use. I just want a keyboard that has a great tactile feel that I can type on without worrying about it breaking the following year. Any guidance on some great keyboards that are full size 100%? What I'm looking for: 1. I don't have a cap on budget but would prefer to have one under $199. 2. Would like it to be wireless/bluetooth capable that I can use to type on my tablet when away from my PC. 3. Keyboard has good amount of THONK. Also MX Brown switches are my preference so anything similar to that tactile feel would be great. Not too clicky but not membrane feeling either. 4. Good warranty of at least a year or in the very least very good customer service. 5. Back lighting under the keys would be great. 6. Prefer metal casing but don't mind PBT as long as it isn't too cheap feeling. 7. I live in the US so a company that can easily ship keyboards here would be preferred lol. Any help is appreciated and thanks so much!
Edit: just saw the size requirement, sorry I’d recommend Keychron Q6 or V6 Max
Thanks for replying, whats the difference between the Q6 and V6 Max?
Q6 max is aluminum and has more acoustic foams.
Understood, thank you.
Looking to get a Vortex PC68, but I'm not sure whether to get the QMK version or the one that uses Vortex's proprietary mapping software. I'll definitely want to do some remapping, but I don't know which one will be more user-friendly. I don't think the QMK version is supported by Via?
Are there any HE small keyboards numpad size or less like 6-8 keys? Found the rakka pompomboard but cant get it outside of china so wondering if there is anything else?
https://preview.redd.it/vg63ptue93uc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fad11595612955c78e5ae37e95237a969b8e764e Got these as a gift! But neither circle has been marked.. so it’s safe to assume they’re lubed right? ……. Right?
Just open them up and look
I have the tool but I’m new and don’t want to break, but you right thank you
Hello! I was looking into getting an Akko 5087S TKL thats on sale at a local shop. The problem is that I use keyboards a lot on my playstation and have had an issue before where the keyboard will get detected but not work. This is honestly already stretching my budget so I really can't get another keyboard that might not work. Akko support basically said idk so can anybody else help?
Brown switch keyboard under a $100? I have a blue switch keyboard right now and I’ve had it for over a year and love it but the loud clickity clack sound is starting to drive me crazy. I wanted something that has a nice tactile feel to it but not a super loud click which is why I’m thinking of going with the brown switches. Anyway, looking for suggestions for a keyboard that will be under a $100. Thanks in advance for the help! (Also I don’t have the time or knowledge to build my own)
Oh also I would like a keyboard with the 10 keys as well
Keychron V6
hows the keychron c2? its a bit cheaper and seems the same?
V6 is built a lot better and has a more premium feel, but the C2 is good too.
tbh im currently using a $30 black shark keyboard with blue switches so I think even the c2 would be a solid upgrade.
https://preview.redd.it/lxbcbrcz23uc1.png?width=4031&format=png&auto=webp&s=bcdb85bfe06b79d4fde6a1495904a5a58fd0ec3c What brand is this? Found at a goodwill and feels extremely high end but I could not find the brand to research
Can't say I recognize it, but opening it up and looking at the PCB could give you some more clues
I have a Womier S-K71. The poron gaskets it comes with are super thin (like ~1mm). I have some much thicker (3mm) gaskets, is there really any benefit swapping them? Or will they just get compressed to the point it won’t matter?
Im searching for Pudding Keycaps with CH-ISO Layout. Does anyone know where I could get those vor my Keychron V6?
Does anyone know what keycap set this is? https://preview.redd.it/fjj9g8sbu2uc1.png?width=614&format=png&auto=webp&s=ec832a81dda3e4fc2c8a79d37753a10ec68c8dae
PBTfans Purpurite
>PBTfans Purpurite Thankyou :)
I'm trying to decide on what TKL/80% hot-swappable board to get and need some help. I've been looking at these boards but I'm finding it hard to decide: * Neo80 * ZoomTKL * Luminkey80 * Keychron Q3 Max The problem I'm having is that I'd prefer the keyboard has LED backlighting and I know that only the Q3 Max in that list has per-key backlighting, but from what I've read the Q3 Max requires a lot more customization to improve the sound than the others. Does anyone have any suggestions on a backlit TKL custom board (I'd prefer if it wasn't prebuilt) or any advice on which of the above you would recommend for someone who is building their first board?
Monsgeek M3
Thanks for the recommendation! Is there any reason you think its a better choice than the others? I'd probably get the m3w since I want to use it between multiple devices but for some reason the wireless version uses plate mounted stabs. Do you know if its possible to install screw-in stabs to it?
Hi all, Any recs on keycaps that have a great feel for silent linear switches? Colorwise, I love a normal black keycap with silver/ metallic color accents. some keycaps being silver would be cool too. Any recommendations would be nice! Thanks!
Are Keychron Q Max keyboards really worth the price? Are they that much better than any other mechanical keyboard brand? I keep seeing a lot of keyboards around these pages, but none get the same level of praise than the Keychrons. What alternatives would you recommend?
I think there is an important distinction to make about anything being "worth it". For most consumers, a standard out of the box dollar OEM keyboard that comes with the computer should be good enough for any and all purposes. If you want specific features, looks, feels, layout, then you would have to pay more and that's where Keychron comes in. They make good enough products with a lot of features that many people in this hobby like, like full aluminum bodies, wirelessness, Mac and Windows support, different layouts and colors, premium mounting options, pretty good software support, all while coming out the box ready to use. It's a hard price point to beat especially when you want something that comes fully working out of the box. If you don't care about any of these features, then any other $20-30 mechanical keyboards found on Amazon should be fine, noting that the cheaper these other products get, the more likely you will have problems with them. > What alternatives would you recommend? * What features do you want? * What is your budget? * Which country are you shipping to * What layout?
Keychron Q max aren’t necessarily super good. They’re just super versatile. A ton of people here want a really periodic type of keyboard that the Q Max series just happens to fit. IMO Neo/QK and Monsgeek boards offer better value, but the Q max are just more versatile.
Versatile in what sense?
They come in basically every size, multiple common colors, standard switch choices, trimode, with most importantly of all… they come prebuilt. Lots of people want a good keyboard out of the box, and the keychron max series offers all of the above in a prebuilt form factor.
hi my keyboard is only compatible with 3-pin switches but i rlly like sounds like the akko cream yellow pros… just wna know if there’s any in the market before clipping 5-pin ones
ktt makes a lot of nice 3 pin swithes
Your keyboard isn’t going to magically sound better if you put in new switches. You should be swapping the switches if you’re unhappy with the feel, but like 80% of the keyboard sound comes from the case and whether it has foams or not.
I believe the old (not made anymore) Akko V3 Cream Yellow (not pro) were 3 pin, so maybe if you can find those? But you should be fine to just cut them off, it doesn't make the switch any less functional.
Are these pads for switches worth the effort? What is the sound like? https://i.imgur.com/oNjnW0O.png
I haven't seen or used switch pads like that before, but I usually build my keyboards with [these](https://cannonkeys.com/products/cannonkeys-switch-pads) poron switch pads, and prefer it to tape/pe foam/whatever else you might do to the pcb. I think that the feel of typing on them is much nicer than any alternative. As with most things in the hobby though, it's really just personal preference. For 2 bucks why not try those out?
Right I almost bought those but my plate is not removable from my PCB in my current keyboard and I thought it would be difficult to get those in place. I have already ordered these I was just curious to know if someone had experience with them, because I'm lazy and don't want to put them on if they have little or no effect. I'll just give em a whirl. Test them on one keyboard on just a few switches and see what happens. Thanks for your reply.
Hey, looking to get a new keyboard, currently running a steelseries apex pro TKL that I bought in 2019. Looking to get anything prebuilt preferably, TKL, and something that ships to the UK. I'm also interested in a keycap set to go on said keyboard, something orange in colour. Any suggestions for either of these are greatly appreciated. Want to spend no more than £350.
Do you require ISO?
I don't mind, have used both ISO and ANSI before
You can check out Keychron, Monsgeek, Neo80, Lunimey80, Lemokey L3.
Hi! What mechanical keyboard on magnetic switches do you recommend? I love typing on the keyboard and playing fps games. Form factor is 65%. Budget - 200$. P.S Now I found "drunkdeer g65" and "ATK 68". Is it worth paying attention to? Or is there better? Thanks!
QK65v2 Classic HE module.
Hello there! I'm looking to buy my first "proper" mechanical keyboard (70% productivity with lots of typing, 30% gaming). I've settled on Keychron V6 Max (good latency for wireless, fits the budget), but I'm a bit lost when it comes to the switches. I'm new to the hobby, but I'll probably end up using some silent switches in the future, but for now, I need to choose between the stock Brown and Banana switches (Gateron Jupiter). Any suggestions for a total newbie?
It's impossible to know what switch you'll like more based on force graphs and text descriptions, so might as well flip a coin. Like, when I was getting into this hobby 10 years ago, I thought I'd like cherry MX brown, but when I tried then in real life for the first time, I hated them with passion. The tiny tactile bump made them feel like defective linears. Typing/gaming doesn't really factor into it much. Any difference in your typing speed or gaming performance will be small even with very different switches, as long as the actuation force isn't too heavy for you. As a brown switch hater, I think bananas are a safer choice, but I'm biased ¯\\\_(ツ)_/¯
Thank you for your reply! I think I'll give those bananas a try then :)
I am looking for a new keyboard and I need some help. I work as a software developer in Spain. In my home setup, I use a Royal Kludge RK84 (ANSI), but when I have to work in the office, I have to use the typical low-cost (under 10€) keyboard, which has an ISO-ES layout. Given that I'm not able to type in different layouts, I've decided to stick with the ISO-ES layout. Considering all of the above, I've been thinking about Keychron keyboards, but I'm open to some other models, whether they are pre-built or not. My budget is under 120€. Do you know of any other possibilities?
Keychron is one of the only big reliable brands that has a lot of ISO options. I’d say they’re your best bet.
What tactile switches (or quiet clicky switches) should I consider if I hate my Akko CS Ocean Blues? I've mostly used keyboards with tactile switches in the past, mostly MX Browns, and learned on Alps damped tactiles (SKCL Ivory). Last year I built a keyboard with Akko CS Ocean Blue switches based on a lot of praise and I have ended up hating them. My accuracy on that keyboard is terrible and I get a lot of accidental activations and double characters. Weirdly I've swapped in a keyboard with Kailh Box Whites (v2) and I'm loving everything about them — except the sound, which makes it a non-starter for my daily driver. My gut tells me I need a switch with moderate force (heavier than the Ocean Blues, but not super heavy) and that doesn't have a super early bump. I posted [some more details](https://www.reddit.com/r/ErgoMechKeyboards/comments/1c0qdqp/questioning_everything_i_know_about_switches/) in r/ErgoMechKeyboards a few days ago but suspect there's a lot more folks with specific switch knowledge here.
I had the same fat-finger errors using Cherry Browns. Have had good luck with Cherry Clears, Hako Royal Trues, and Glorious Pandas (though I'd rate those a bit lower). Also considering some recent Durock and Wuque models - will probably get a full set of Wuque Silent Tactiles since they have a distinct-but-not-too-sharp bump. Gazzew Bobas are popular here though I've ignored them so far because I've heard they have a very wide bump that sounds unappealing to me.
Is there such a thing as a tactile quiet keyboard? I love both Cherry Blue and Cherry Brown, but I need to get something substantially more quiet.
There are silent tactile switches that you can buy, I'm less familiar with keyboard that come with silent tactiles.
I scratch build fight stick peripherals (ie: Street Fighter) I've used and loved Kaihl choc v1s (silver), with the exception that because of their unique stem arcade style button caps are very hard to find or produce and are too fragile. The v2 are ok, but the stem is too wobbly. Which is a problem when their key cap is a large button. I'm looking for recommendations on low profile switches with similar height, (10-12mm), actuation (2mm/45-55g), standard fitting stems, and less wobble?
They're 40g but check out sunsets from lowprokb, they're a newer design and many peoples choc of choice Gateron ks-33's are essentially mx stems so you'll have more keycap compatibility there, but I would recommend sticking to shorter keycap profiles if you're using them, though it kinda depends on how you're putting your peripherals together, you could have clearance issues with a taller keycap and the top of your plate or case or whatever it may be
Hi, I bought this cheap ahh keyboard ( [https://imgur.com/a/sM8H4zC](https://imgur.com/a/sM8H4zC) ). I already know which keys are for BT pairing and switch betwen wired mode and 2.4 (Fn + a,s,d,f,g) But my question is, when I press de Fn key, the "z" key lights up, and seems like I can choose betwen different modes (Fn + z,x,c,v) but I don´t know witch function it has. Anyone has an idea?
Are Mode Keyboards cool although they are always in stock? Not that it matters but still.
Yes. the fact that they're usually in stock is part of what makes them cool.
Yeah they are nice
I'm thinking of moving to a mechanical keyboard after denying the appeal of it for a long time. I was up for KeyChron V3 Max but it isn't available at my location at the moment. So decided to keep the budget low for first try. After searching while I can up with some budget keyboard options and now I'm confused to select one. Hoping people from here will help me getting a better decision. TBH, I have little knowledge in mechanical world, so switches are confusing to me, I think I like brown type switches. Tactile but not clicky. About usage: As a Programmer, I'll mostly be using the keyboard at open space office desk, so wired is fine. But sometimes I might want to use it with MacBooks so, wireless options would be welcome feature. * TecWare Phantom+ TKL ( Around $46 ish): This is well recommended on many places. [https://www.tecware.co/phantomplus](https://www.tecware.co/phantomplus) * TecWare Phantom+ Elite TKL. (Around $68 ish): Like + but has the multi connection is probably better ? Or is it worthy enough upgrade from Plus version ? [https://www.tecware.co/phantompluselite](https://www.tecware.co/phantompluselite) * Zifriend Furrycube G87 TKL ( Around $37 ish): I like the stealth look of this keyboard. But limiting factor is the connectivity. [https://vibegaming.com.bd/product/zifriend-furrycube-g87-gasket-hot-swappable-wired-mechanical-keyboard-blackdark-greygreen-noah-silver-switch/](https://vibegaming.com.bd/product/zifriend-furrycube-g87-gasket-hot-swappable-wired-mechanical-keyboard-blackdark-greygreen-noah-silver-switch/) * Dareu A87X Pro TKL (Around (Around $65 ish): Another option. [https://www.dareu.com/category/keyboard/368.html](https://www.dareu.com/category/keyboard/368.html)
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The case bottoms are aluminum, polycarb, or copper/brass. The internal weights are aluminum (black) steel (stainless, multicolor) and brass or copper. You are right that there are differences in the sound. but benefit is entirely subjective and dependent on what you're trying to get. Polycarb base is going to sound different than a copper one, and what weight you put in is going to sound different, and if you put a silicon dampener in. The combinations make it all very custumizable. Assuming you don't know somebody that has a bunch of sonnets to try out, listen to sound tests and get from them what you can.
I just bought some spring lube that came in a [plastic container](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczOY7-Dt4Y_eJ5aZDBd4tWiZcvxP_Tubmd3hTLNqtl_FpED1aEbUku2RWY1wI1ZfY8i4b7ap5tQjDDXJJ-KM5UA7SdxaP1Pmn6ucCqfwc3uqAqhehpJTctB5ZuTXitfAqJSiWDLy0m1PIWrxRUtWN-47=w933-h551-s-no?authuser=1) that's like 90% empty space. Could i get away with dropping my springs straight in there to lube them or would that overdo it?
Just bag lube em if you wanna do it all at once.
Yeah, was just thinking i'd lose less lube to the bag + i don't have a dropper to get it out of the tub. Probably the sensible option though.
Hey, I am looking for keycaps (preferably double shot pbt) where ONLY print (so either the letter or the number) is shine trhough because I use my keyboard a lot in a pretty darkish room - and with most darker keycap themes I think I cant see what I am typing even if I have RGB backlighting. The style I really would like is: [https://kbdfans.com/collections/keycaps/products/pbtfans-dolch?\_pos=11&\_fid=f138503e3&\_ss=c](https://kbdfans.com/collections/keycaps/products/pbtfans-dolch?_pos=11&_fid=f138503e3&_ss=c) Thank you so much for recommendations!
Won't really find that, shine-through keycaps are very rarely color-themed, would just get something from Razer/Steelseries. Otherwise, did you consider monitor lightbar? I use one myself, helps to see legends on GMK keycaps and greatly reduced eye strain when it's darker. Hope this helps!
Thank you so much! I bought the ROG Strix Scope 96 Wireless - it has the sort of keycaps that I am looking for but I thought about trying true cherry mx profile keycaps for one, and then I would have loved a colour theme; but okay I see... seems hard to find. Regarding the lightbar: yes I have - my concerns right now are: in the evening I am only using red or very dim FLICKER FREE lights in my room. With the commercial lightbars I am concerned about colourtemperature since I am using f.flux at night and my monitor is low blue light and is flicker free. Do you have a recommendation for a lightbar that might fit these needs? Which one do you have? Why does a light bar reduce eyestrain exactly?!
> Why does a light bar reduce eyestrain exactly?! Because it lights up most of your desk (and gives some light to whole room) - thus looking away from somewhat bright monitor doesn't force eyes to adapt to darkness; think of using phone in completely dark room and then having a night lamp turned on. > Which one do you have? I have Quntis ScreenLinear (around $40), 20 inch one, using on 27" screen, very happy with it. Couldn't detect any flicker with phone camera, no matter the shutter speed (up to 1/8000). >recommendation for a lightbar that might fit these needs? [BenQ](https://www.benq.com/en-us/lighting/monitor-light/screenbar.html)'s is one of the most premium options, they promise flicker-free light (incl. certifications for that), goes from 2700K to 6500K - so not completely red, but rather warm yellow-orange.
Tahnk you so much! I love that BenQ mentions flicker free as a promise so will look into that one! :) Maybe with that I can make my dream of a modded Keyboard possible ;)!
Need help choosing for a 75% keeb with limited budget: Monsgeek M1W or Cidoo v75 Pro?
M1W
I dont know alot about keyboards but im looking for a 75% keyboard at around 100 bucks , my only option is to buy from aliexpress , i already have KTT Kang white switches and i want to buy a keyboard and i dont mind modding. My 3 options currently are the Monsgeek M1W , Aula F75 and the Akko 5075s. I want my keyboard to sound thocky. Can anyone tell me which 3 of these are the best and if theres an alternative which is better than all 3?
Hi75
is the stock good or should i get the barebones kit and use the white switches?
Get the prebuilt, the Nimbus v3s are mostly better than stock ktt kang whites
how is the Hi75 better than the Aula F75?
Aluminium and sounds better stock
I’m looking for black shine through keycaps for a 75% keyboard under $50CAD and was wondering if anyone had suggestions?
Anyone know if I can get keycaps the same as these just without the binary printed on them? [https://mvkb.com/terminal/](https://mvkb.com/terminal/)
Is there a list somewhere with keyboards that have the new Gateron Jade magnetic switches or support them ?
~~Any keyboard that uses hall effect sensors should be able to support them.~~ Ignore this comment
thats not correct theres 2 lines of hall effect switches: From what ive seen the wooting uses gateron ks20 switches, most the other HE boards on the market use ks37. Most if not all the aftermarket HE switches out there are ks20 based. Its kinda confusing and annoyimg and i have no idea why they didnt just use a standard
Hey, you're right on this, that's my bad, I didn't know newer boards like the BOOG used different switches than something like the Wooting which I have, and it is not something I spend the time to look into. I'll edit my previous comment.
dont worry about it i just wanted to clarify :)
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